@@Basilisk_in_a_dark_room the one I got for my daughter's buggy is enclosed, good enough for mud bogging. If it was an issue (like if it got swamped), a little silicone or flex-seal would make it water tight.
Best thing to do is use a toothed belt and cam gear wheels, keep your ratio at 1:1 and it will be easy to start.The problem with moving a propeller or impeller in water is that the faster you go, the more power you need.
If you want to use a clutch you can get them with a sprocket for use with chain. But, there is a simple way to use a belt and pulleys and still have a clutch of sorts. I used to have a mini bike with this setup, and my old Snapper riding mower uses the same deal for the blade drive. You run a belt that is just loose enough that the pulleys can spin without the belt grabbing. In the middle of the belt you have an idler pulley or bearing, which is connected to a lever that you can engage into a notch. When you pull that lever into a notch it tensions the belt and off you go. It probably sounds easy more complicated than it is, but you could literally build it with two pieces of metal, an idler pulley(some people use a skateboard wheel) and a few bolts. If you wanted to get fancy you could make it engage with a steering cable so you wouldn't have to reach back. Of course that a little now fabrication work. As far as your exhaust situation, i would just run a pipe towards the back and just over the transom with a muffler on the end. You're not going to lose any performance. You'll probably gain performance over that short exhaust setup and it'll be way quieter. Cool project though. I found this vid because i just got an old 10ft jon and I'm looking at propulsion options.
I think you need the clutch still but you also need the larger pully's ratio.. Chain is probably your best answer but there are things like multiple belts a wide cogged belt ect but I think a chain may be more reliable and cheaper.. Clutch will let you idle larger pulley ratio will get you the speed...
maybe put a idler puley clutch like what old wheel horses use.d. wit h a lever too disengage too start, then eggage when its go time.. or heck a simple forward-N-reverese go kart trans off of temu or w.e.. this would be a great setup with a big block like 15hp gx390, 440 predator w.e.. and use a cog drive belt like the mud-motors use?.. or yea.. ust chains.. like #428
So if the clutch is hot, it's slipping. if not, dont worry about it but belts are made for higher linear speed than chains so you could run bigger pulleys on both ends and get more belt contact so it would slip less without having to do any of the crazy suggestions
If you are going to use belt drive - check out the belts from TKI. the belts have ribs in them so they are going to grab just like a chain drive. That being said… chain drive is probably going to be easier.
thats awesome right there! maybe that clutch got the belt too hot? perhaps you might want to try a clutch with a chain and sprocket instead, might be noisy though. If that dont work maybe different sized pulleys?
DON'T HAVE TO HAVE A CLUTCH...... Take clutch off and use a idle pulley with a lever handle with slots to make as much tension as you desire. Been there and done it
You can run an idler pulley on the loose or clutch set up or you can simply add a comment primary clutch for a belt drive. I think the idler pulley with a lever to pull it and lock it in place when you want drive action is your best bet.
Using a CVT belt system will allow the engine to come to full power will be easy start very beefy and kits available that will bolt directly to the predator.
That's what I've used on a bunch of projects, the bolt on cvt for the 212. If you need a different ratio, use a jack-shaft setup. If you use a jack-shaft, you can use a double chain setup with a one way sprocket, and a smaller sprocket that engages at higher speed (centrifugal force). Like the old comet 2-speed Jack shafts.
Use a comet torque converter and run a #40 size chain to the outdrive. Should work fine. I’d run my exhaust out at the static water line. That way it’s just barely using the water to muffle at idle and when you accelerate and the back sink the engine will be pushing enough air at that point to not care too much
@@midwesthobbiesno, as an engineer, belts are made for high power stuff. I promise if you get your ratio right with your pump and have a tensioner you will not need a chain. I have a 65hp machine that is belt drive. I have a 13hp predator on my sawmill and it has one belt drive on a clutch and it works great. Don't go back to a chain, too noisy.
You should copy the mechanics oh how a snow blower engages its auger. This will allow you to star in a neutral state. Rev up in rpm a bit then engage the pump/jet.
That pulley you have is meant to be 1/2 of a torque converter setup. Add the self adjusting rear pulley to your pump head get the correct belt. Or, easier is just buy a complete torque converter setup, bolt it to the engine, change the pulley on the pump head for a sprocket and connect the two with chain. Most importantly though, PLEASE build some sturdy shrouds to cover those belts a and chains with that engine so close to you!
Move the engine over . Center up engine shaft with pump shaft and mate together with 2 flanges. Put a drive saver in-between flanges so it saves eng and or pump if something were to get stuck in the impeller. Use a drill or impact to start it .
rather than a belt... you can... get the engine in line with the shaft have a clutch. have an overdrive/reduction depending on setup... by using a small steel rim, and a smaller tyre rolling INSIDE it... rim on the shaft is underdrive, rim on engine is overdrive... only have to tilt the engine for the clutch... "slip-belt"... vee belts are really lossy, and small radius curves only make it worse... there are also calculators for how much power they can actually transmit. for how long. fun to play with. worth it. ive had one or two rude surprises myself with them! lol, chew a belt up in less than an hour and you know you done something wrong... then the calc tells you you need FIVE! ummm... have you done any calcs on pitch and diameter and RPM to figure how much water it is actually trying to MOVE? because it sounded really overloaded... a HP equates to so many pounds to so many feet per minute... know the engine RPM, know the power, can guesstimate within a few percent on water volume or mass flow... always err on the high side, overestimate the power required.. know the required shaft speed and reduction/overdrive...
I’d use a torque converter
I wouldn't. You just have to get the right ratio so that your peak power is possible with your pump. Any less rpm you don't need as much torque
Those belt torque converter setups for the 212's work great, way better than the go kart clutches.
If water gets on the assembly the belt will slip it would be great if it was enclosed
@@Basilisk_in_a_dark_room the one I got for my daughter's buggy is enclosed, good enough for mud bogging. If it was an issue (like if it got swamped), a little silicone or flex-seal would make it water tight.
Awesome build keep going this is a cool concept
Best thing to do is use a toothed belt and cam gear wheels, keep your ratio at 1:1 and it will be easy to start.The problem with moving a propeller or impeller in water is that the faster you go, the more power you need.
If you want to use a clutch you can get them with a sprocket for use with chain.
But, there is a simple way to use a belt and pulleys and still have a clutch of sorts. I used to have a mini bike with this setup, and my old Snapper riding mower uses the same deal for the blade drive.
You run a belt that is just loose enough that the pulleys can spin without the belt grabbing. In the middle of the belt you have an idler pulley or bearing, which is connected to a lever that you can engage into a notch. When you pull that lever into a notch it tensions the belt and off you go. It probably sounds easy more complicated than it is, but you could literally build it with two pieces of metal, an idler pulley(some people use a skateboard wheel) and a few bolts. If you wanted to get fancy you could make it engage with a steering cable so you wouldn't have to reach back. Of course that a little now fabrication work.
As far as your exhaust situation, i would just run a pipe towards the back and just over the transom with a muffler on the end. You're not going to lose any performance. You'll probably gain performance over that short exhaust setup and it'll be way quieter. Cool project though. I found this vid because i just got an old 10ft jon and I'm looking at propulsion options.
I think you need the clutch still but you also need the larger pully's ratio.. Chain is probably your best answer but there are things like multiple belts a wide cogged belt ect but I think a chain may be more reliable and cheaper.. Clutch will let you idle larger pulley ratio will get you the speed...
Snow mobile clutch style with belt be WAY smoother than chain with a set sprocket gear ratio
maybe use a torque converter setup will give you an easy start and idle plus keep motor in its power range
I agree with this guy 💪
Love the trailer park references! 😂 that's great!
Sweet build!
Bigger pulley and a torque converter would be the deal think of it as a mini bike with a 300 lb man on it
Bro been watching your videos for some time now. I grew up in Newaygo and jumped off the train bridge several times as kids.
That’s great! thanks for watching
maybe put a idler puley clutch like what old wheel horses use.d. wit h a lever too disengage too start, then eggage when its go time.. or heck a simple forward-N-reverese go kart trans off of temu or w.e.. this would be a great setup with a big block like 15hp gx390, 440 predator w.e.. and use a cog drive belt like the mud-motors use?.. or yea.. ust chains.. like #428
Thats what i was thinking. Hand clutch like the old mowers.
This is probably the best idea I've seen so far, definitely would work. He 100% needs an idler clutch and pulley.
good job, this video made me sub. keep em coming, from Alberta Canada❤❤❤
Thanks just ordered a bunch of engine performance parts
So if the clutch is hot, it's slipping. if not, dont worry about it but belts are made for higher linear speed than chains so you could run bigger pulleys on both ends and get more belt contact so it would slip less without having to do any of the crazy suggestions
Congratulations on the baby
Bro that’s so badass
would you not hook motor up directly to pump with gear reduction and clutch ??
If you are going to use belt drive - check out the belts from TKI. the belts have ribs in them so they are going to grab just like a chain drive. That being said… chain drive is probably going to be easier.
thats awesome right there! maybe that clutch got the belt too hot? perhaps you might want to try a clutch with a chain and sprocket instead, might be noisy though. If that dont work maybe different sized pulleys?
DON'T HAVE TO HAVE A CLUTCH......
Take clutch off and use a idle pulley with a lever handle with slots to make as much tension as you desire.
Been there and done it
Throw one of those Amazon’s pit bit exhausts on it ! Makes them super quiet an you don’t lose much performance at all !
Use a double belt set up. Like an air compressor
You can run an idler pulley on the loose or clutch set up or you can simply add a comment primary clutch for a belt drive. I think the idler pulley with a lever to pull it and lock it in place when you want drive action is your best bet.
eBay Grom mufflers sound and work really good.
Using a CVT belt system will allow the engine to come to full power will be easy start very beefy and kits available that will bolt directly to the predator.
That's what I've used on a bunch of projects, the bolt on cvt for the 212. If you need a different ratio, use a jack-shaft setup.
If you use a jack-shaft, you can use a double chain setup with a one way sprocket, and a smaller sprocket that engages at higher speed (centrifugal force).
Like the old comet 2-speed Jack shafts.
Exhaust can go straight out the back just like a jet ski, no venting
Use a comet torque converter and run a #40 size chain to the outdrive. Should work fine. I’d run my exhaust out at the static water line. That way it’s just barely using the water to muffle at idle and when you accelerate and the back sink the engine will be pushing enough air at that point to not care too much
torque converter or use a timinh belt instead of an normal one
Possibly Use An adjustable clutch belt like snowmobiles do. Wonder how well thad work
To complex, too much weight. Zero benefit
Where do i get a jet drive unit? Is that removed from a jet ski or something that can be bought?
Nm i see now
Snow machine setup is way beefier than the tiny belt
Congrats on new baby, and I was wondering what kind of boats are you using for the builds
@@deeless7218 this build is a 10’ Jon boat
@@midwesthobbies OK that’s cool man that’s what I thought but yeah much props I dig your builds I want to build one now.
Chains are made for power. Belts are made for speed.
I think I’m going to go chain and heavy duty clutch
@@midwesthobbiesno, as an engineer, belts are made for high power stuff. I promise if you get your ratio right with your pump and have a tensioner you will not need a chain. I have a 65hp machine that is belt drive. I have a 13hp predator on my sawmill and it has one belt drive on a clutch and it works great. Don't go back to a chain, too noisy.
You should copy the mechanics oh how a snow blower engages its auger. This will allow you to star in a neutral state. Rev up in rpm a bit then engage the pump/jet.
Not spinning the clutch fast enough to engage 100%. Bigger clutch pulley size or torque converter, which is the best option
UR COOL GUY I SUBBED
30 series torque converter, and chain drive.
chain and clutch would work well
That pulley you have is meant to be 1/2 of a torque converter setup. Add the self adjusting rear pulley to your pump head get the correct belt.
Or, easier is just buy a complete torque converter setup, bolt it to the engine, change the pulley on the pump head for a sprocket and connect the two with chain.
Most importantly though, PLEASE build some sturdy shrouds to cover those belts a and chains with that engine so close to you!
Go electric, super quiet, lots of torque
What kind of speed do you get out of this setup?
I swill test when I have the gearing correct, hopefully this week
Exhaust out the Bottom will will be to much back pressure, ask me how i know😅
Torque converter with chain setup and it’ll be nice
Don't use cheap belts, use Kevlar reinforced belts.
There's a video on my channel of a pretty decent mud motor exhaust
I will check it out
Why did you not use a lovejoy drive.
Not able to gear it
Why not a chain drive? They make chain drive clutches for go carts!
Mice wave runner 3 pump tunnel
I like it very simplistic
Run a water box to quite it down
i have a spare water box from a Kawasaki js 550 i think i will use
Out the back of boat not under
Sell me the carb for the wave runner lol
@@SuperSmashHoes64 it’s on eBay lol
@@midwesthobbies link?
@@SuperSmashHoes64 www.ebay.com/itm/226130042398?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=DU-l9zjSTgW&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=DU-l9zjSTgW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Tourqe converter 100%
Move the engine over . Center up engine shaft with pump shaft and mate together with 2 flanges. Put a drive saver in-between flanges so it saves eng and or pump if something were to get stuck in the impeller. Use a drill or impact to start it .
rather than a belt...
you can...
get the engine in line with the shaft
have a clutch.
have an overdrive/reduction depending on setup...
by using a small steel rim, and a smaller tyre rolling INSIDE it... rim on the shaft is underdrive, rim on engine is overdrive... only have to tilt the engine for the clutch... "slip-belt"...
vee belts are really lossy, and small radius curves only make it worse...
there are also calculators for how much power they can actually transmit. for how long. fun to play with. worth it. ive had one or two rude surprises myself with them! lol, chew a belt up in less than an hour and you know you done something wrong... then the calc tells you you need FIVE!
ummm... have you done any calcs on pitch and diameter and RPM to figure how much water it is actually trying to MOVE? because it sounded really overloaded... a HP equates to so many pounds to so many feet per minute...
know the engine RPM, know the power, can guesstimate within a few percent on water volume or mass flow... always err on the high side, overestimate the power required..
know the required shaft speed and reduction/overdrive...
I have not tried to figure out how much water it actually moves, thanks for the ideas.
cvt drive with a chain be better
stealth is best on the water