All About the Double-Breasted Suit
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- čas přidán 15. 11. 2018
- In this 25th episode of Sartorial Talks, Hugo covers the finer points of acquiring and wearing a double breasted suit.
Photo Credit : Esquire for the Daniel Radcliffe picture
Music Credit : Nowë / Bensound (@ / nowemusic / www.bensound.com/) - Jak na to + styl
"I know the purists don't like it, but I don't care."
I love it!
Dear Mark, if you'd listened to the purists in many areas, life would be so boring and codified. Let's break free, even in double-breasted suits ! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS indeed there wouldn't be room for innovation and relaxation.
I hate all of the "artificial" rules around style. Yes, certain things about proportion, color combinations, etc. are objectively appealing and flattering. But I will button or unbutton my buttons as I see fit.
Instablaster...
Q
I love Double-Breasted suits because they have more details and it really makes you feel like you are wearing an elegant coat rather than just a normal suit. Thanks for the video explaining how everything works!
You are very welcome Christopher ! Hugo
Could you do a video on pinstriped suits and pinstripe shirts? I would like to know the etiquette of pinstripes and the rules of them
Jacomet is a true thinker because he gives us actual first principles to go on as well as history. This is so much more edifying than merely listing rules, because it shows us how the rules come about and moreover enriches our sartorial education. He covers every subject comprehensively as we see here.
Thank you so much sir for your kind words. Very encouraging! Hugo
Just last week I picked up my first double breasted suit from Prague’s master taylor, Mr. Hartl. I told him about this CZcams channel while we were doing the last fitting and handover of the final suit, and he showed me both of your books, the Italian and also the Parisian gentleman 🙂. The suit is made of grey flannel, for the winter. Time to wear it these days!
Good afternoon Marek ! Thank you for your kind words and I'm honoured that your tailor had both my books. Enjoy your flannel ! Hugo
Thank you! It is my first double breasted suit and also my first flannel suit. I love the look of it and cant wait to wear it. Have a great weekend and thanks for your amazing videos! M.
Sir your video's content cover all deep perspective of all topics. Keep making these types of videos. Love from India
Thank you Sir, Love from France, Hugo
My favorite mornings are when I wake up and see a new Sartorial Talks video
That's a very kind comment Tony. Your, Hugo
Hugo, I must say your work is inspiring and much appreciated. I've gone bespoke, I've tried off the rack and have had the privilege of experiencing multiple brands from across the spectrum. But your talks on the refined art of sartorial taste really does tie all this experience together and breathe new life into it.
You've convinced me here to try the double breasted suit. I wasn't brave or bold enough then, I am now.
You and Sonya and your family are really making an impact with your videos. As far as information on CZcams goes you are among the crème de la crème.
Keep up the good work.
Regards and Cheers, Johan from Malaysia.
You are truly an artist. Thank you for posting and please keep them coming💪🏼
Bloody marvellous Hugo! Accurate info (as always) fascinating history lessons taught and common myths kicked into touch. I love your passion, research and delivery. GOLD!
Thank you so much for your kind words and encouragements. Hugo
I enjoy learning about the history of men's fashion in addition to the sartorial aspect and your videos provides both. I always look forward to a new episode so please keep them coming!
Thank you very much for your support and appreciation. Hugo
Bravo!!!!!! So true! Wear what you love, not what others say you may not!
Yes, if you like it, wear it ! Cheers, Hugo
Very true indeed. You should be the judge of what you wear and not others
Believe on your eyes.
It's like receiving a gift each time I'm notified of a new video from Sonya & Hugo. (Only channel I keep notifications on.) The passion with which you express yourselves is inspiring!
You are so kind with us Mikal. Love from France, Hugo & Sonya
Really like this dudes authenticity. No flowery language, gives you concrete facts
A man who knows and is passionate about his subject matter.
Liked and subscribed.
Keep the knowledge and wisdom coming. 🇿🇦
Like so many others, I eagerly await the next edition of your talks. Thank you very much for deepening my knowledge of men's style. You are a big reason I have been embarking on giving myself a style makeover. I live in an area that thrives on business casual, and unless you are going to the business school nearby, anyone wearing a suit sticks out like a sore thumb. Between the garments themselves and your knowledge and encouragement in your videos, I'm growing into becoming one of those sore thumbs. Thank you!
I'm so happy to read your comment Jesse. Keep the show on the road please ! We are the new rebels fighting against a world of laziness and mediocrity. Yours, Hugo
For the last years I have started wearing all my double breasted jackets open when walking around, the raucous statement it makes turns into an ultimate expression of sprezzatura and makes me feel like a man with utter disregard for natural human convention, a supervillain.
Another great explanation of a classic style. I'm going out next week to look for a double-breasted suit and I'll do so with a whole new eye and perspective. Well done Hugo and the team. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Russ and good luck for your DB hunt ! Hugo
Love the beautiful, older-style wide lapels on his suit. So glad to see someone with so much influence and taste wearing them!
Thank you sir!!! I just picked up my second double breasted suit today. Ready to head to the tailor. Keep the videos coming and continue to love the Lord 🙏🏽😇
Thank you Sir! Blessings, Hugo
(The way most, if not all, of my comments begins:) Another masterpiece by Hugo, Sonya and the whole team who stands with you.
Hugo - thanks for enlightening me. It is actually the first time I really learned about the DB suit - interesting indeed.
To be honest, I do not have anything special to say and I am no writer like yourself so explaining my feelings and thoughts on paper is harder for me - but I felt obligated to share my gratitude once again as you keep investing time and effort to bring this high quality content to us. I do not take that for granted - Thank you =)
Take care,
Amir
Thank you, Hugo.! I have always been a lover of the double breasteds, but fell victim to the single breasted by way of conformity, choosing my individuality by way of fabric and color. You freed me.! I feel so much stronger and more powerful in my double.! Thank you so much for the great video.!
What a lovely comment Mark. Yes! Feel free to rock your double-breasted ! Hugo
Hello Hugo 😊 I could listen to you for hours and hours, thank you for sharing 🙏🏼👌🏼
Love & good spirit from Denmark 🇩🇰
I’ve learnt so much since subscribing to this channel. The main reason we’re to unbutton the last button of a suit. I’m a sucker for double breasted suits. Thank you so much sir. Btw the music at the end of the video is so captivating!
Thank you sir for your appreciation, and I'm happy to read we've been useful to you. Best! Hugo
Thanks Hugo, it's nice to find a sophisticated guide that puts together all these aspects about the DB
Merci Chiquito ! Hugo
spoken like a Master - love your works and video. it has educated me well. Good wealth and happiness to you and your Mrs.
I've never heard such a full account of the King Edward story. Thank you for fleshing out the legend.
Why didn't they just move the buttons up a bit, with less vertical space between them, and relax the chest width a bit. Seriously, he was Prince of Wales, then king; if he ever bought anything BUT bespoke, one of his tailors should he been drawn and quartered.
Merci Monsieur, je suis tellement reconnaissant pour l'art, la culture, la musique, la mode, les influences de la cuisine que les Français ont donné au monde. Je vous remercie.
For my English speaking friends I translate for you. (Thank you Mister, I am so thankful for the art, culture, music, fashion, cuisine influences that the French people have given the world. Thank you.)
Many thanks Hugo! I admire your insights. Almost finished reading your great work The Italian Gentleman. Thanks!
Thank you Ben for your appreciation and support. I'm glad you enjoyed my second book. Hugo
I acquired my first double-breasted jacket last week, and after listening to your explanation on why going to a tailor if you're a bit more full bodied, I must say that I have been extremely lucky. My double-breasted Brioni jacket I purchased on eBay for around 30€ fits supremely well and I'm more than happy with it. It really feels like wearing an armor.
Greetings from Germany!
You are indeed very lucky. The thrifting market is also a very good solution if you are on a budget. The important thing is to find a good alteration tailor close to where you live. Bravo ! Hugo
This man is serious. Great presentation. Buen hecho.
Your videos are fantastic. Really enjoying this series.
Thank you so much Michael. Hugo
I've got to give it to you, Hugo, I've always thought DBs were 'too much' for my taste but you've converted me to them - I particularly like your dark blue one. I'll definitely be asking about one for my next suit.
I'm sure you'll enjoy it Craig! Best, Hugo
Craig Brown you can never have too much style 😉
As I love double-breasted jackets this was one of my favorite episodes.
Thanks Marc. I love double-breasted too! They represent 2/3 of my wardrobe. Cheers, Hugo
Grâce à vous, Ms et Mme Jacomet, nous sommes toujours informés sur les dernières tensions et épanouissements autour de la mode masculine. Nous attendons votres nouveaux podcasts avec particuliere impatience. Merci. J. P. 🇫🇷 🇬🇷
With your instruction I have developed confidence in my fashion choices. Cannot thank you enough. Thank you!
Thank you for this encouraging comment and appreciation. You are very welcome ! Hugo
Please don't stop making videos Hugo, I can listen to you for hours.
Thank you for your appreciation and encouragements. Yours, Hugo
Absolutely stunning information and content as always Monsieur Hugo. Vous êtes un vrai Gentleman que j’ai eu l’honneur d’apprendre de nouvelle choses à chaque fois de lui. Merci beaucoup et bravo. Have a nice day from Morocco. Cheers, Zakaria
Hello from Alabama, United States. I enjoyed this video very much you answered a lot of questions I've always had about the double-breasted suit. I thoroughly enjoy all of your videos and I love your accent
Another superb episode, thank you very much Hugo
My pleasure! Cheers, Hugo
My girlfriend bought me one for my MD defence coming in few days. I didn’t like it till I watched this video. Thanks for making this. Love from Cameroon 🇨🇲
Always great commentary on real life, style not fashion. Bravo sir!
Thank you Jay ! Cheers, Hugo
Really love to hear something like that from u sir. When it comes to dressing, the idea of "looking good" is simply by looking good. Doesn't matter button or unbutton, wear it as if u like. As long as it fits, looks good on u, makes u confidence and comfy, it's a way to go
I can't disagree ! Cheers, Hugo
"Style is being at your ease".....very well said, Thank you!
This video cost me a few thousand dollars... I couldn't be happier. The absolute truest statement in this video is the one about it being armour. As a younger man, it is also very nice to stand out in a well cut, draping DB suit.
I love how this man knows everything about suits! I'm very impressed, very cool.
I don't know everything about it my friend, but I love the subject (I'm an author on men's style). Best! Hugo
Hugo for me and other is plenty of information that we need it if we didn't have you well we need it to build one like you but of course this is your gift and I m bless to know you thank you so much for the passion and wisdom words
At time marker 9:08, you touched heavily on a detail that, like the tie dimple, clearly offers a point of three dimensional interest. This is the quality of content I look for in a "vlog." Thank you for your attention to such discrete detail! The concept of balance, especially with three dimensional elements, I greatly appreciate. Thank you.
Thank you Dain for your appreciation. A little tension is not always bad for the health ! Cheers, Hugo
Thank you, Hugo.! I am a lover of the double breasted suit. I feel much more educated and at ease with how I wear mine, thanks to you. Bravo !
Amazing information and presentation as always. I just love ur channel.
Thank you so much Misha! Hugo
Thank you sir👏🏽👏🏽 I just got mine a few week's ago it was so hard to find also. Pleased with the look of it....
We are happy for you, Cheers, Hugo
I love it you tell people to do what feels good to them and not always follow "the rules".
This channel needs more subscribers!!!
Was gonna get my first double breasted suit and was wondering how to get any information about this and then sir Hugo drops this 18min video. very mch thankful.
You are so very welcome. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you again for enlighten us about the Double-Breasted suit and its history!
With great pleasure ! Hugo
The double breasted suit is my favorite 😍.
Same here. Cheers, Hugo
I love it too, but my 5:5 body can’t really carry it :/
@@bensonhsu3783 I'm five one and I wear o e
just a question, i've seen double breasted coats with a 2 on 1 configuration, i find them a bit odd, are these aceptable?
I've stumbled across your videos and I'm thoroughly enjoying them! I recently purchased a 'vintage' navy double-breasted jacket from a charity shop that has a vintage section. It just 'nips' in tight around my torso. Its the '6 and 2' configuration - peaked lapel. Working with a budget whilst aiming for Sartorial Aspirations can be challenging; but I'm determined to achieve as elegant a look as possible.
I particularly was heartened to hear you say don't let anyone say you can't wear something!
Thanks/Merci
Tony
Thank you Tony for sharing your experience. And you are perfectly right : today with the second-hand market and the thrifting stores (physical or online), you can find great garments for reasonable money. The main (and difficult) point being to find a good alteration tailor. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS indeed! My next search - a good tailor! Appreciate your reply.
A
@@tonydeltablues my pleasure, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you Hugo. I'm now subscribed.
That's kind, thank you for your support. Hugo
Hugo is the best ive seen on youtube to guide you...bravo !!!!1!
Thank you for your enthusiasm Dilip ! Cheers, Hugo
Until I saw this video, I had the solid belief that short guys such as myself (I'm 5'7) could never, ever even think trying a double breasted. Now that I have seen you explaining this 4 one 1 version I find it very elegant and appealing.....and decided to try it! Thanks Hugo...really
Excellent video. Great picture examples to compliment your speech
Thank you very much for your appreciation ! Hugo
As an artist I find your channel inspiring.
Thanks Jennifer ! Hugo
Wonderful insight as always Hugo. Thanks for sharing...
You are very welcome! Cheers, Hugo
A super introduction. Love the story about the button and the king.
I was always interested in double breasted suit/jacket but needed more insight on functionality and form. Thank you sir!
After this video I ordered a cotton DB neapolitan jacket from my Shanghai tailor (Germain) and was floored by the quality and the fit. Nothing has such class as this style, even the SB. This video gives you the foundation for making a wise choice.
Dear Stewart, congratulations for your DB. And I agree, the class of a DB in unsurpassable (when properly cut and fitted of course). Hugo
As someone who is on the heavier side I genuinely appreciate Hugo's refined and inclusive sensitivity regarding proper fit and drape on more robust builds. For many years I chose not to wear more professional attire because I always felt judge by the salesperson constantly lamenting that they could not find something that would fit me. These experiences truly painted a picture of exclusion and body shaming that I only came to terms with once I learned of garment features such as pleats, and high rises. Yes, I have heard all of the talking points that I could simply eat healthier and exercise more frequently. Alas, I have tried both and rarely do I see long-lasting results. Now, I have managed to finally assemble a modest but uplifting wardrobe I am proud to wear at the office knowing that my clothes fit comfortably. Scholars such as Hugo elevate the field in all the best ways not exclusively through his wealth of knowledge and experience but through inclusive language acknowledging and encouraging alternative solutions for those of us who are unable to find well fitting clothes right off the rack. Thank you for such an amazing corpus!
Love this. Glad you’ve found a style that works.
I really like the slanted pockets on your jacket a lot. They seem to make the DB jacket a little more modernized and not too stuffy. I wish more suit jackets had them to be honest; they help flatter the wearer by accentuating the waist suppression of the jacket and draw the viewers eye up more cleanly. I imagine they are more practical and easy to access as well since the pocket line is perpendicular to your hands if you were to go and use them. I have slanted pockets on my wool coats for this reason.
Thank you my friend for your very precise and insightful comment. I also like slanted pockets for many of the reasons you are explaining. However, I prefer straight pocket on 6X1 more casual Italian suits (like linen suits for example). But it's just a matter of taste. Cheers, Hugo
Great video my dear friend , specially the story of king Edward ,now we know the reason ,,and i will explain it to my audience in my next training , love from Cairo.
Thank you my dear friend ! Love from Paris ! Hugo
A very good video. Thank you for the in-depth analysis. I do not own a double-breasted suit but, some day, I will make the leap
My pleasure Waltski ! Hugo
Thanks for the great video, I'm going to check for "tension" on my DB buttons!
It might be useful to add that the Duke of Kent also influenced the DB suit by preferring the 6 on 1 in the 1930's. It exposes more shirt/tie creating a longer silhouette thus more flattering to less tall men or a slimming effect for those in need. I have never stopped wearing DBs for the sake of following a fashion 'tendance' at any one time, as it has been said fashion comes and goes but style remains!' Merci, Hugo.
You are absolutely right. The Duke of Kent (who mysteriously died in a military plane crash in 1942) was an elegant gentleman (in my opinion more discreet and understated, sartorially speaking, than his infamous brother the Duke of Windsor). And he popularised the 6 on 1 double breasted suit. Thanks for reminding us of this lesser known figure of the British Royal family. Hugo
Once again, Hugo, that was great. Thank you.
You are very welcome Jean, Hugo
Extremely informative and direct introduction about double breasted suits.
Outstanding speech. Cheers mate! It is interesting what you mentioned. If you like it, try it and wear it.
It is the best review and the best explanation for double breasted suit ever.
"Our good friend the king Edward the seventh" XD XD XD
That's a good one
Haha, yes. Cheers ! Hugo
Although it's Edward the Sixth 🙂
I'm pretty sure Edward Vlll was Bertie, in the 1930s, never actually crowned.
I love learning the do's and don'ts. Thanks Hugo.
Thanks, even if do's and don'ts are not our specialty here. We prefer to think we inspire people and we don't pretend knowing everything. But if you learn a thing of two from us, then we are happy. Cheers, Hugo
Just tailored a DB suit, well explained the soul of DB. Thank you!
This guy is awesome. Love the content.
Great explanation/tutorial of the Double-Breasted Suit.
Amazing knowledge for gentlemen of the world. Thank you Hugo.
Fantastic! Thank you for the priceless advise
Hugo, a question for you: I have been wearing single breasted peak lapels for about 20 years. (un) fortunately, this style has become very popular in past few years. Now I am "on trend", after 2 decades, Iol. need to get some new suits made, and I am concerned that if I get more of these now, this style will seem like a bad cliche in a few years time. The same way that double-breasted circa 2000 seemed like a bad idea from the 80's. I am a shorter guy, with broad shoulders, and the peak lapels make me look good. My bespoke suits last 15+ years...so I am making a large investment which, should still look classic 20 years from now. What do you suggest? Notch lapel, or peak for next suits?
this guy is so knowledgeable!! Wow! well done!!
Thank you Madam. Hugo
Mr.Hugo sir, such a pleasure and insight to listen to you. It would be lovely and delightfully endearing to meet you someday in Europe, and have a good old chat about suits! love you.
Dorein.
Great vid - always informative. For double-breasted suit jackets, how should vents be considered? No vents seem old fashioned, but I'm curious to hear if you think it can still be styled in a modern context.
Merci Monsieur!! Much love!!
Thanks for sharing this knowledge Hugo. You are doing a great job.
I have a question regarding the suits/jackets: Is it necessary to have a ’buttonhole’ on every suit lapel (for lapel pin) or is it just for specific type of suits/jackets?
Looking forward for your answer. Have a great day.
I love your hints, Thank you
Finally somebody said it:if you love it wear it!!!Hugo you are the leader that the sartorial movement needed!!!
Thank you Nikos! I don't consider myself as a leader at all, but if this channel can inspire some people, then I'm happy. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS we are happy for your advices and the historic facts about the sartorial movement.merci
I thought I'd also mention that Daniel Radcliffe isn't just 5'7" but is infact 5'5! Many people say that short men can't wear double breasted suits and he clearly proves them wrong. I believe Edward Sexton who is a master tailor is a very short man also and wears double breasted suits a lot but still looks incredible.
You are absolutely right. Radcliffe is indeed 5'5. Edward, that I know personally, is probably around 5'7. A great man and a great tailor by the way. Hugo
Im a larger guy who wears double breasted all the time.... the skirt comparison was he funniest thing I’ve ever heard him say!! Lol
Haha, this is true, it can quickly become a skirt!! Best, Hugo
Great video i always enjoy all of your knowledge on mens wear. Hope you and your wife are doing well.
Thank you Mike. And yes, Sonya and I are doing very well. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you very much for this high quality Information! Very good video again, I will share it.
Thank you for commenting and sharing! Cheers, Hugo
This man is well seasoned and knows what he speaks about!
Thanks J G ! Hugo
I have this beautiful Canadian made 6x1 double-breasted blazer but I heard a lot of people said that 6x1 is bad and a thing of the 90s period that need to be forgotten .... Your video make me feel better about that blazer.
Great video Hugo.
What ??? A 6X1 is a thing from the 90s ? Hahaha, this is the most absurd thing I've heard since a long time. The reality is simple : a Double-Breasted (eatery 6X2, 6X1, 4X1 etc...) has to be well cut and well fitted. In the 1990s, the disease was about the ill fit (people were dressing way too large). Please wear your DB blazer and enjoy it ! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you for your thoughful comment!
You are welcome ! Hugo
"The double breasted makes you feel powerful"
Completely Agree
High quality as always Hugo.
Thank you very much ! Hugo
Thank you Hugo👏
Can you also go over the double breasted overcoat & double breasted vest...The history ,tailoring & the do's & don'ts of wearing each.
i'm totally hooked on your channel.
Another fantastic presentation, thank you.
Now I know blessed as Opa's double breasted which was off the rack in the second half of the '40s fits me like a glove. Do very agree a double breasted feels amazing and gives confidence.
By the way, buttoning the last button for me depends on my mood.
Thanks Adriel for your contribution. I usually don't button the last button of my 6 on 2s but I know very elegant gentlemen who do. Cheers, Hugo