Properly installing a Aeromotive Phantom pump, filter and plumbing a complete fuel system

How to Optimize Your Return(less) Investment With an In-Tank Aeromotive Fuel System.
I prefer messing around with carbs (in my vehicles AND in my gut!).So, when I acquired my ’48 Chevy, one of the first things I was asked if I was going to replace was the unique Edelbrock tunnel ram and 600-cfm four-barrel. My response was simple: Why? It runs and
well, to be quite honest, so I’ll probably stick to the old mantra, “If it ain’t broke …” However, the same could not be said for the actual fuel delivery portion. At first, I couldn’t figure out which was louder, the dual air compressors mounted to each side of the custom-fabbed aluminum fuel tank or the old-style fuel pump mounted to the framerail right beneath the cab. Turns out they were both equally as noisy, and seeing as Old Anvil Speed Shop will be replacing the entire ride control setup with Air Lift’s 3H/3P and FLO Air tank systems, that meant the fuel pump, which was actually plumbed in with the
corresponding filter incorrectly, would be performing solo … until Paul, once again, had other things to say about that!
We’re just going to forgo the “old” pump situation altogether (photo-wise), as it was just that: an old, noisy, externally mounted electric fuel pump that had done its due diligence and was ready for retirement. Instead, let’s focus on Aeromotive’s Phantom 325 returnless in-tank pump system for carbureted applications, shall we. Old Anvil began the installation by locating and providing a mounting point for the Phantom pump unit. Using the pump’s retainer ring as a template, a
3-1/4-inch holesaw followed by a cordless drill do the “dirty work”-literally. Aeromotive suggests mounting to a completely flat surface, which this aluminum fuel cell easily accommodated! Of course, the resulting debris was flushed out completely before proceeding with the pump assembly and install. Next, after the newly cut holes were cleaned and deburred, the tank’s depth was measured so we could size the foam baffle and later establish the overall height of the pump system. Before dropping the foam baffle and bladder into the tank, the pump’s retainer ring
and plastic installation ring were installed so as to have a means in which to secure the two!
Now the pump assembly process begins, starting with the installation of the strainer/filter onto the
end of the pump before it can be measured with the hanger assembly itself to achieve that
previously determined in-tank depth the excess material is simply trimmed off (bandsaw/cutoff wheel for the pump bracket; hose cutters for the tubing).The assembled pump system, prior to being prepped for installation (pump secured to the bracket; wiring attached and secured).
With the installation ring replaced with the provided foam mounting gasket, the complete pump system can be dropped in the tank. To hold the pump system in place initially, as well as to help compress the gasket, two Nylocs are hand threaded onto two mounting ring studs-nylon washers
are used beneath the 10-24 Nylocs. With the pump system secured in place, the installation moves on with the fuel supply portion. (Once the bed floor assembly is complete, we’ll install a
rollover valve/vent.) The Aeromotive billet 10-micron fuel filter is mounted in the same location
as the old external fuel pump; the black stainless braided fuel line is cut to fit,
allowing room for the -6 AN fittings The fitting process can be a bit tedious, especially if
you’re not accustomed to the procedure. First, the hose end collar is installed onto the hose
(counterclockwise) so that the end of the hose is flush inside the top of the fitting.To complete the connection, the female AN portion is treated to a bit of antiseize before being installed into the hose collar. And it should go without saying: avoiding fuel delivery leaks is reliant upon the “successful” assembly of your fittings … get them right/tight!That completes the first section of the
plumbing-now let’s finish it off into the engine compartment.To dial the pressure down, we used
Aeromotive’s SS Series ORB-6 carb regulator, which was mounted on the firewall, in
close proximity to the Edelbrock 600-cfm carb (which was retrofit with a -6 AN inlet fitting replacing the old barbed inlet), and wrapped up the plumbing accordingly.Fortunately, the existing aluminum
fuel tank can remain in the system lineup-the new Stealth 325 15-psi (internally regulated) pump
simply retrofits in and pressure reduced by the new regulator is mounted off the firewall, close to
the carburetor; the serviceable filter is mounted inline off the framerail, in the vicinity of the
prior components we’re replacing. Like Paul said, a very simple yet fully modern system that even I
can understand … and work with! In the event I ever decide to do the throttle-body EFI conversion,

[@JesseOldRodz]

Great info! Good job!

[@richardbakan]

After 5 years the yellow foam disintgrated requiring a new piece. Aeromotive asked if I had put octane boost or additives in the tank. The anwser is no, I only use 93 octane. It lasted 4 years with onlt 15oo miles