Electric RV Dump Valves - Part 1 (Install Plans and Demo)
Vložit
- čas přidán 6. 07. 2018
- Update see Part 2 - • Electric RV Dump Valve... and the full blog post here - www.loveyourrv.com/installing...
In this video, I show you my new Drainmaster electric waste valves. I give you a look at the old manual rod setup inside the belly pan of my 2011 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel trailer.
I go over why I decided to install the electric dump valves then give you a quick demo of how they work.
These valves were purchased at DrainMaster in Hollister, California. I paid around $450 plus tax for the kit including 2 valves wiring and switches - Pro-Series Drain Master Valve Kit 5886
drainmaster.com/rv/products/f...
Fair Disclosure: Doug from DrainMaster was kind enough to give me one electric valve free. A promotional discount of $166, the rest I paid for. I am not an affiliate - Ray
Related links:
WasteMaster Sewer Hose Review - www.loveyourrv.com/reviewing-...
WasteMaster Hose Storage Mod - www.loveyourrv.com/ultimate-r...
Cracked Waste Valve Repair - www.loveyourrv.com/rv-waste-t...
Noco GB150 Battery Booster Review - www.loveyourrv.com/noco-gb150...
----------------------------------
Visit the Love Your RV! Amazon Page to shop a selection of my favorite RVing products, parts, and accessories
www.amazon.com/shop/loveyourrv
LoveYourRV is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com
-----------------------------------
Follow our RVing adventures at www.loveyourrv.com and rvhappyhour.com
Connect with Love Your RV!
Pinterest ► / loveyourrv
Google+ ► plus.google.com/+LoveYourRVon...
Facebook ► / loveyourrv
Twitter ► / loveyourrv
Instagram ► / loveyourrv
Monthly Newsletter ► www.loveyourrv.com/mailing-lis...
Don't forget to Subscribe! ► czcams.com/users/subscription_c... - Jak na to + styl
Update see Part 2 - czcams.com/video/bUGWyyxnTww/video.html and the full blog post here - www.loveyourrv.com/installing-electric-rv-waste-tank-valves/
This should be a standard equipment feature on all RVs. Great review.
It's worse that playing a video game, I find myself reaching to the screen to help hold things for you to make the installation go smoother. Look forward to the next phase of this project.
Who would think waste tank valves could be so exciting:)
Neat addition! I think it should have an Arm/Disarm switch however (I’d be adding one if it was me or a flip down door to protect the buttons). Seems too easy to hit them especially if you were dry camping somewhere (or accidentally hit the button while setting up with partial tanks). Looking forward to seeing them installed.
Having just retired from a life of industrial controls, I learned a thing or two.
Rule number one: make it simple
Rule number two: refer back to rule number one.
Yeah, pushing a button is cool to open and close a tank valve, but how often do you do it, once every week or so? What happens when your hose blows apart?
I used to think gee whiz things were great until I had to start fixing them.
I enjoy your videos Ray, keep it up.
Here is an article explaining the benefit of the electric - drainmaster.com/main/2012/04/19/electric-valves-better-solution/
Dirt Road Sailing they're perfect for dumping while driving. Just check your rear view mirror first.
Interesting project looking forward to more videos on the valves
I could definitely see the advantage of having switches mounted inside the rig. Especially if you are stationary for longer periods.
Ray, you are going to run out of walls to mount control panels - LOL
haha, just trying to catch up to the new RVs :)
I'd mount the switches right in the bathroom, along with the see level gauges. It's where you think of it the most. After using the toilet, you check your levels (or listen to the flush), reach over and operate the switches for a dump. This might pay off on those cold mornings when venturing outside is not really on the list of things you want to do.
I would add a master switch with a cover red so when the cover is down no power to the stuff turn the switch on power comes on.
Nice idea to get rid of those badly placed handles. Waiting till your alone is a good idea so you can take your time. Should be a sweet mod.
Hi Ray....KISS is something to live by. I would offer a simple suggestion. Cut a hole in vertical panel, where dump valve handles are located, large enough to accommodate hand grip on handle. Install small door with latch to keep critters out. Shorten metal rod with handle on both valves. Fixed, little or no cost, free up storage space. Just a thought.
I like electrical and electronic toys but on the road simple things that seldom break rule. Happy traveling.
The problem with your solution is: you loose the benefit of the storage space. It would be a real PITA to move everything stored there each time you wanted to "Take a Dump" !!!
When I saw your video I thought, "That would be a great upgrade for our motorhome." Unfortunately, their pricing is way to high for most RVers. Thanks for the informative vid.
Hope you are going to put up part 2. need to see what it all looks like after your done lol
Yup, going to do Part 2 the installation soon then will have a Part 3 the review in a few months after using them a while. Cheers, Ray
I won't mention the band that had electric dump as they open their waste on the tour bus on an open bridge when there was traffic below them. Nasty they said it was a mistake. But maybe it was.
dang missed angies opinion, cant wait to see the new truck !
Looking forward to part 2 of this video, my wastegate is not closing properly. And I have a the Montana Keystone RV. I have three way skates and my black is the problem. Good luck on getting the right angle with that electric wastegate. I can't afford one of those but just knowing how to change one will be helpful
Here is a video from 4-5 years ago where I changed the crack black valve. Lots of fun, haha - czcams.com/video/IF6JfnI2AzY/video.html
thanks Ray
great video thanks
Ray in the video it looks like the one gate when closed still has day light showing through. You could see your table top through it?
Seems the valves have a gap on both sides until the gaskets are installed. Was the same with my old manual ones too. - czcams.com/video/IF6JfnI2AzY/video.html Cheers, Ray
Looking good!! :)
Hello Ray, Is it possible to add a safety switch or protective switch cover to prevent the switches from accidentally being pressed? It appears from the video that the switches could be easily hit to open the grey or black tank unexpectedly.
Yes, I think I will add a toggle for the power so that I can turn the power off to them when boondocking, too. I'm going to have to measure and see how much current the draw when idle. I'm sure it's not much.
I also have the manual valve on the end of my WasteMaster sewer hose, just in case. :)
I have one of those odd, rvs too im not sure auto valves would fit in mine, tanks really close would be way outta tje 45 degree range
I’ll keep my cable actuated ones. I like to physically feel the movement to see is there is some blockage or other problem.
Here is an article explaining the benefit of the electric - drainmaster.com/main/2012/04/19/electric-valves-better-solution/
Thanks for another informative video. Just a stupid question regarding your existing valve handles. Maybe you cold cut the the connecting valve rod shorter and reconnect the handles closer to the wall so you can utilize the area without having to spend a couple of days on your back.Still the drain master looks like a good product.Thanks again
Could do but would still have to move things every time we dump. Also, the sideways valves always end up getting sticky, especially the black tanks. Here is why - www.loveyourrv.com/why-we-are-buying-a-new-truck-versus-fixing-big-blue/ Cheers, Ray
That seems pretty cool and I agree they really put those valves in a bad spot. Can’t remember if you have another cutoff valve at the hose hookup in case of a leaking valve?
Yes, the head end of my WasteMaster hose has a valve.
As a full timer I've never had any problem with my black / grey valves. To avoid getting contaminants in the track just flush the black tank after emptying the tank. Sometimes I'll do it twice. Keeps the sensors clean as well. If the valve needs replacing I pay the $15 bucks. Easy install. I'll pass on the electric
Could you rotate pipe going into the tank. Also if you have room a 1/16 bend might work.
I'm afraid to tamper with the tank as they have it what looks like epoxyed in place. Would hate to mess up that seal. ;)
I've talked to the valve manufacturer and they figure I will be OK. Straight up and down is optimal for the valve to act as a guillotine but will work fine up to 3 or 9 o'clock.
Is that an air gap between the edges of those valve gates? How do they seal with that extra space around the edges???
It's normal, the two gaskets that get install seal things up. You can see it in this video to where I show one I pulled out of my Cougar - czcams.com/video/IF6JfnI2AzY/video.html
Ray, if your Cougar is like mine, one of those on the galley tank would be nice.
Yes, unfortunately, the valves only come in 3 inch and my galley is 1 1/2" pipe. Will have to use an adapter or change the outlet. Will leave that for another time. :)
Nice product. Good to see the manual override design. I wish I would have known about these when I had to replace both of mine 6 months ago. Hopefully I won't have to replace them again. If I do these will be first on my list. Also I like your sewer hose ramp to the sewer connection. Did you build it yourself? If so do you have a video on it. I'm tired of using my slinky which doesn't work all the time. Thanks for sharing.
It's called a Flow Down. I got it with the WasterMaster sewer hose a few years ago. Here is the review - www.loveyourrv.com/reviewing-the-waste-master-rv-sewer-management-system/ Cheers, Ray
now i want to see the install lol
Cool product and love your videos. Just curious as to why there's a visible gap on both sides of the closed valve? Wouldn't they leak?
Thought the same thing. But I don’t think the gaskets are in there yet.
That would explain it.
I'm not sure the reason, will find out. But they will be covered by the gaskets. Maybe it just makes less friction
I thought the same also.
If you look at the video where I replaced my crack valve a few years ago you'll notice the regular manual valves have the gap too - czcams.com/video/IF6JfnI2AzY/video.html
I will be following this, I too have a Cougar with poorly designed locations of valves. I have always been nervous of how reliable this would be. Mechanical is hard to beat for reliability. please share if you have any issue with these in the future.
I've had many issues with mechanical ones. :) Cracked black valve, broken handles, and rods, etc. They often get sticky and hard to push, especially the black tank. I'll definitely give the electric ones a review down the road after using them for a while. Cheers, Ray
Love Your RV thank you so much! Love your stuff! And having the valves side ways i had no idea about that! That could totally be my problem like you were having. I hope you love the electric ones. I want to follow suit for sure. Thanks Ray
Perfect for dumping gray or black water while driving. Just check the rear view mirror and go for it.
I thought you had three waste tanks on your rig. Are you keeping the third one manual?
For now, I am. It's a 1 1/2 inch valve for the galley and they don't make that size. I have to buy an adapter or change the piping.
I want to see ya install it plz
Wow very pricey. I'll just stick to the conventional method. Great video.
Ray do you think they will hold up in freezing weather?
Good question. I figure they will be OK. These valves are used in lots of luxury motorhomes and boats.
I asked the owner of the company and he said they have only had a few broken in 15 years from freezing weather and they we mostly from people the tried to use them when the rig was in cold storage instead of waiting until things thawed out.
Ray quick question (sorry if you'd answered this in the past) when you are connected with full hookups + sewer do you keep the valve to your gray water tank always open or do you keep it closed and only dump it when it's around 2/3-3/4 full?
I keep my all my tank valves closed and only dump when near full. Here is a video explaining the pros of doing this - czcams.com/video/Q4A-41EdBBc/video.html
Also, less chance of flooding my neighbor if something goes wrong with the hose.
Funny you referred me to that video because I always just assumed that one should keep the grey tanks valve always open until about a year ago when I saw that exact same video and since then I've followed Chuck's advice which is to keep it closed.
The expert in the video is Doug Swarts the owner of Drain Master who makes these electric valves and the Waste Master hose. He knows his stuff when it comes to RV sewer. :)
You are right Doug is the one who actually explained the reasons why. When I saw the other video about the woman who had a rat come up and out of the sewer and then ended up in her gray tank that was game over for me and especially my wife who hates rodents.
haha, ya, that's pretty freaky
I had the pleasure of dealing with a failed Black Tank valve identical to this. You will hate these things if they fail. 48 gallons of Black Tank contents can only be contained if you have a large tank with a pump along with a Kiddie Pool. If you have these, delete them. If you don't have them , don't get em. Trust me, laziness has its downsides.
Had them for over 5 years now, have been happy with them versus the old manual pull rod type that were OEM.
Why can you see a gap in the gate? Won't it leak?
The gap isn't a problem. That is just the way they are built, likely for smoother operation. Once the rubber seals are in place and the valve is installed onto the plumbing drain pipe, the gaps are completely covered.
@@LoveYourRV Makes sense. Thanks for the info!
Is it me, or can I see past the gate on both sides of that valve..?
Yes, the gaps are normal, designed that way. Once the gate is installed the pipe flanges and rubber seals cover them, so not a problem. See part 2 video czcams.com/video/bUGWyyxnTww/video.html Cheers, Ray
@@LoveYourRV cool, I figured there was a reason.
The valve you are showing that costs $166 is the old series, the link you provide is to the new series Pro valves for $266.
I have and showed the pro series valves, you can tell by the extra blue data connectors for the smart valve control switches. Looks like the pro valves have gone up a bit since back then, they are $188.72 each now - drainmaster.com/rv/products/full-view/100337
@@LoveYourRV Darn, I didn't notice the blue connectors, I was looking at the writing on the valve. They must have changed it after that because now the pro series looks different. I have the 3 valves and 6 switches in my shopping cart, just waiting to check out my pipe situation under the coroplast but I have to wait until my arm is better in a few days.
@@LoveYourRV They are $266.57 with 1 switch, $347.64 with 2 switches.My order with the legally required master switch is $993.94 plus over $100 for shipping. They better work really good!
Made in the USA by a small business, niche product, so price is a bit higher but the quality and support is there. If the manufacturers would go to a decent electric valve system and sewer hose system the cost could drop a bunch I'm sure with the larger scale of manufacturing but they keep installing the cheap push rods and cables on these expensive rigs. Cheers, Ray
My concern would be this: if that gadget fails, how do you dump? Doesn’t look like you have any kind of manual backup.
I showed it in the video :) - czcams.com/video/_G61xCEsJtU/video.html
Love Your RV ok, missed that
You mean Ann isn't going to get under there and film the mod.?
haha, no!
just a side note, could you just unbolt the valves on both sides and avoid cutting the pipe and not having to use the rubber filler? maybe i am just not seeing something there.
Here is a link to a video I did when I replaced the black wastegate a few years ago. This shows it with both valves removed - czcams.com/video/IF6JfnI2AzY/video.html
HAHAHA OMG i actually remember this video now! LOL, I remember what a pain in the @$$ that was! again, awesome stuff! will be watching what you think about them
haha, ya! Maybe there is another way by undoing the metal rail that holds the tank in place and dropping it slightly but I was too leery of either cracking the tank or busting the drain or vent pipes that come in from the top. So went with the rubber collar. It's worked well.
Love Your RV honestly, i would have done the same thing. I also wouldn't want to move the tank down
HaHa, I have a composting toilet so no black tank. I would like to get one of these because I have made it so both my tanks are gray tanks. Because I will be using biodegradable soaps, if I had this I could dump my gray tank while going down a dirt road:)
The switches should have a guard ie flip cover to prevent any misfires.. Can you imagine accidentally hitting the valve switch and not being connect to sewer. That would be an ugly mess to clean up esp the black tank.
I'm surprised that you haven't gone to a thetford toilet and reclaim the black tank for a 2nd grey tank/backup. Especially with the for boondocking or replace the black for a new fresh water...
Luckily I have a shutoff valve on the end of my sewer hose, just in case. :) I plan on installing a power toggle to them as well.
I was sort of thinking of the scenario that you didn't have your hoses on and that you accidentally hit/touched the switch by mistake maybe doing something else in the bay.... just a thought.. If I install them I will at least cover them with a safety cover. Grey wouldn't be that bad depending on where you were but the black .... well lets just hope its not in a Walmart parking area.. I know I may be making a mountain out of a mole hill but children or other curious minds like to touch things....
I hear ya, I found out that they sell a master switch drainmaster.com/rv/products/full-view/100348
btw, kids and curious minds can open manual valves too. ;) Cheers, Ray
I guess if one has the time and money why not. My valves are in a convenient place so I'll stick with the manual mode. However your Cougar's design is poor so the install for you will probably be beneficial. What's next an automatic extendable/retractable sewer hose that connects itself with the push of a button :)
snackman Funny. Why stop at the sewer hose?
They won't because there always is a market for those who enjoy luxury and as long as technology keeps pushing along new products will continue to come out. Like having electric driven automatic folding steps or being able to start your generator with a remote while lying in bed. There are many more that come to mind. I do enjoy watching Ray install whatever new device that he's about to tackle. I joked with him once before that his channel name should really be "Mod Your RV".
Honestly, it's just more needless complexity to add to one's life and yet one more unnecessary expense. But to each their own.
Here is an article explaining the benefit of the electric - drainmaster.com/main/2012/04/19/electric-valves-better-solution/
You lost me at "can't be mounted sideways". Nice idea though.
I agree. I'm not sure how many RV's can accommodate a vertical installation. Mine certainly won't, especially with an underbelly liner.
Oh yeah another 12v item in the RV, what could go wrong.
That's not a "telephone cable end." I can tell even in the video that uses an RJ-45 connector
Thanks, if you want to get super nerdy about it here is the technical data. Cheers, Ray
From the company website: drainmaster.com/rv/products/full-view/100342
IP66 CABLE DM PN 5846-IP66 20’ Rnd. Cable Ass TECHNICAL DATA
• Type: Telephone, FT4, Cat 3
• Core: 4
• Wire: Solid copper, 24 AWG individually insulated, white outer sheath
• Cable OD: 3.5 mm [0.140 inch]
• Length; 20 Ft std.; Custom lengths available
• Temp Rating: 60 Deg C
• Voltage rating: 150V
• Controller interface: 4 pin Male, Gold plated connector, 13mm Dia, Sealed Waterproof IP66, with screw-on protective cap
• Switch interface: 6/4 RJ11 Plug, Gold plated, for solid core round wire.
drainmaster.com/rv/sites/default/files/DM89%20S2VT%20Switch%20and%20Cable%20Installation.pdf
am i the only one seeing the gaps on the sides that won't make them water-tight?
That is one of the most asked questions. :) In later videos I always mention it. The gaps are only there until the 2 rubber seals are inserted and it is mated to the RV waste pipes. I guess there is some reason they are required. Cheers, Ray
Two more electronic mechanisms to possibly fail. Unpleasant to attempt repair on and expensive to replace. Will stick with manual pulls!
This looks real nice, but with all due respect, that's WAY too much money for that whole setup. Yes, it would be nice to get rid of the manual valves, but I don't have enough problems with mine, (and I'd need three of these, BTW, "shower/bathroom," "galley," and black tank,) to warrant the expense.
I totally understand. This is definitely a want to have, not a must-have. :) There are also cheaper electric valves out there but I wanted to go with premium parts. As a full time RVer its worth the expense to me. I've spent more on things I use a lot less. ;)
Cheers, Ray
Plus, you're a 100% gadget nut, which is one of the reasons I subscribe to your channel. Even though I won't be buying it, I'm still waiting to see you install and use it!! :-)
haha, yeah, you got me. I love playing with new gadgets. :)
That idea is the cats meow for RV's in parks or long term spots. Hoses already hooked up, just push the button when tanks are 3/4 full or so.
I'm sorry but for the money, on a specific part build, the molding process with those tolerances are totally unacceptable, they should be marked as 2nds or free to promoters of their products like you, well one was. Guess I still have to do it manually come rain, sleet, or snow.. Just saying
I don't know looking at the technical specs it looks pretty high end to me:
S2VT VALVE PN 5878-DM10-S2VT TECHNICAL DATA• 12 V DC, 3’’ Full flow valve
• On board Electronics Controller with feedback gate position control.
• High accuracy Semiconductor position sensors
• IP 66 Compliant - water proof, sealed electronics & connectors
• Reverse Polarity protected
• Power-On safe ‘homing’ to closed position
• Operating time: 0.5 sec Typical at 12 V; 0.6 sec max
• Sensors provide Red (Open), Green (Closed) LED's status to operating switch
• 2 ports for 2 switches (2nd switch option)
• Port Interface: Waterproof IP66 connector, 13 mm Dia., 4 pin female, gold plated contacts, screw-on protective cap
• Compatible with 2 types of switches - for exposed or protected locations
• Green Power-On LED on the on board controller
• Back up Active motor safety: Internal timer 0.7- 0.8 seconds
• Voltage range: 10.8 volts - 14.4 Volts. 12 V Nominal
• Stand by current under 50 ma with 2 switch LEDS active
• Slim profile, under ½”, on-board controller - fits tight spaces
• Internal gearing: 303 Stainless steel, Swiss made
• Durable ABS, injection molded Valve Body and Parts
• Manual Override from both sides of valve with 1/8” allen key included
• Easily attached to 3" ABS male or female bolt-on flange fittings. Mounting HW included
• Adaptable to most pipe sizes with proper fittings
• Special Seals Included
• Lubricant Dow Corning 111 includedDOUBLE SWITCH PANEL: DM PN 5847- RV Dbl Sw Pnl TECHNICAL DATAPANEL• Type: Flush mount, with 2 switches and custom PCB assembly
• Size: 4 Inch (W) x 3 Inch (H)
• Thickness 0.1 inch (100 mil)
• Material: Aluminum
• Graphics: Digitally imaged, color legends and outlines
• Overlay: 10 mil clear polycarbonate, UV and wear resistant
• Mounting holes: 0.13 inch dia. x 4, located 0.30 inch x 0.30 inch from corners
• Max mounting panel thickness: 0.269 inch [6.83 mm]
• Rear clearance: 0.80 inch [20.26 mm] measured from front of mounting panel (panel seating surface)SWITCH• Type: Hinged, Tactile, Snap Action
• Color: 1 Black, 1 Gray
• Size: 0.7 Inch (H) x 0.5 Inch (W), [18 mm (H) x 12 mm (W)]
• Interface: 2 x 6/4 RJ 11 sockets (1 per switch), gold plated contacts, mounted on rear PCB assembly.
• Actuating force: Apr. 4.5 Oz, [130 gms.]
• Actuating stroke: 0.016 Inch (16 mil), [0.4 mm]
• Illumination: Internal Bright RED and GREEN LEDs, ballasted for 12 V
• Operating life: > 100,000 cycles
IP66 CABLE DM PN 5846-IP66 20’ Rnd. Cable Ass TECHNICAL DATA• Type: Telephone, FT4, Cat 3
• Core: 4
• Wire: Solid copper, 24 AWG individually insulated, white outer sheath
• Cable OD: 3.5 mm [0.140 inch]
• Length; 20 Ft std.; Custom lengths available
• Temp Rating: 60 Deg C
• Voltage rating: 150V
• Controller interface: 4 pin Male, Gold plated connector, 13mm Dia, Sealed Waterproof IP66, with screw-on protective cap
• Switch interface: 6/4 RJ11 Plug, Gold plated, for solid core round wire.
What tolerances are you speaking of?
"Durable ABS, injection molded Valve Body and Parts" The gate appears to be ill-fitting and rough that catch some debris flowing during the dump process. I know you said the gaskets create a better seal. Sorry, I have over 25 years of using, maintaining and repairing all sizes of abs Guillotine valves that not only held back sewage but also worked under a positive vacuum. I made a special tool for just for removing stuff caught between the seals causing the valve to malfunction and / or leak. I believe Thetford has a similar tool for $37.00 for repairing facilities to fix non-sealing toilet gates. Most repair shops just sell and install new valves for big $$.
Thanks for the feedback. Do you have a link to better built electric RV valves? I'd like to take a look to compare. Cheers, Ray
No links, been out of the business over 6 yrs. Just manually work my motorhome valves about once a week in the RV park.