Mercedes Benz W211 E320 CDI Rear Brakes
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- čas přidán 9. 01. 2016
- Step by step instructions on how to change the rear brakes on a W211 E-class Mercedes Benz -- E320 CDI 2006. Save big bucks from dealer and indy prices and do a great job!
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
![How to change rear brake pads on MERCEDES-BENZ W211 E-Class [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jVebfVkJVv8/mqdefault.jpg)
The Mercedes service manuals I have used mention wear limits for brake rotors, and say that they need not be replaced until the wear limits have been reached. So Mercedes does not believe that it is necessary to change the rotors every time you reaplace the brake pads. By "wear limit," Mercedes means the the minimum thickness for the rotor. Brake pads are made of softer material than the rotors, which are steel, and one set of rotors can usually last through about three sets of brake pads.
Great videos, very informative and helpful.
Always a pleasure watching your repair and preventive maintenance videos! Your gentle work show as if the car itself has feelings. Keep up the good work!
Strong work, Car D Ologist! I thought I might interject to take extra care when working on brake calipers with Sensotronic Brake Controls as simply unlocking the car or opening one of the doors is enough to trigger the SBC module to clamp down on the calipers without warning. Speaking of the SBC module, mine suddenly failed on me last week as I was attempting to merge into heavy I-4 rush hour traffic... That is not fun. The car suddenly went into limp-home mode which prevents transmission from shifting above 3rd gear & braking power is reduced to 10%. It required 'foot to the floor' to stop. This was on a 2005 W211 E320 CDI w/ 214500 miles on odometer. Brake fluid flushes should probably be done annually on SBC equipped vehicles but eventually from what I've been reading, they all fail eventually. The module is $800 & will require Star SD C4 to reset ECU & purge the DTC's.
this is NOT a fun experience! This happened to me yesterday...what is the "trick" to getting the piston back into the cylinder? I finally did this but not fun...if you had the piston pusher tool in place, would this have been prevented or would the pressure buckle or bend this tool? I guess for safety / preventive one should keep the old pads in here until ready to change?
U r better than my dealer mechanics. More careful and detailed. 👍
I would suggest NOT using anti-seize on the face of the hub where it joins to the rotor. These two components rely on stiction (provided by the clamping pressure of the wheel lugs) to remain properly located - any lubricant in that interface will allow for slippage and undue bending pressure on the wheel lugs. I would recommend a thorough degreasing of both surfaces and, to be safe, replacement of the lug bolts.
Thanks for the great video. It was very helpful for replacing my rear rotors and pads on my 2005 E320 CDI.
Good clear work video!!
Always clean the seats on the the calliper bracket so the pads locate correctly. I always need too hand file the pad plates so they are correctly flat with the bracket seating. Apply copper grease to this interface. Always clean the rotor with degreaser as the disc and inner friction surface will be covered in machine grease and will contaminate the shoes and pads. Always deface the pads with a fine file to prevent burning. Always back off the parking brake adjustment as it is unlikely that the drum will be the same wear. Most merc parts are made by Delphi anyway so paying Dealer price is not really worth it.
Super Video
Thank you
the best in this mercedes matter
GREAT I NEEDED TO SEE THE TORX CLALIPER PIN MINE WAS STRIPED AND I NEEDED TO DRILL IT OUT AND REPLACE STILL GREAT VEDIO GREAT CARS AS WELL
THNK YOU
The service manuals for older Mercedes prescribe blue Loctite for all brake and suspension bolts and nuts. Do they still include that?
New SL550: gorgeous red upolstery. I am sure a little OBD2 scanner love would work wonder with CAN faults.
Brake Pins: you need to lube pins with high temp silicone else your brakes will be hard instead of nice and gentle without much efforts to stop on a dime. Do *not* use synthetic grease on slides!!
It is also a good oppertunity here to check the condition and how much the emergency brake shoes have worn.
SO, my rear rotors appear to be seized! How can I free this up? I will go check to see if I had my emergency brake on though, good call! lastly, it appears that you also put anti seize between the rotor surface that communicates with the wheel, correct?
Fantastic Videos, like all of them that you've produced! I've followed your video and done my transmission flush, worked like a charm!
If you ever do a radiator flush on one of these cars it will be most welcomed. I have the same car with 260,000 miles on it and wanting to put in evans waterless coolant. No garage wants to blow dry my system out, like evans suggests. If you could provide some guidance as to how to do a cooling system flush that will be much appreciated! Thanks
Paul
Thanks, Great idea. I will do a video like this at my next fluid change -- but I like to stay with the MB recommended fluids. For the most part, I stay away from significant modifications
question...does anything need to be done to my 2003 w211 e320 when changing brake pads and rotors? meaning with the SBC, i heard that the negative battery cable to the SBC battery needs to be disconnected and/or all doors need to be locked for awhile before working on the brakes. can you expand on this...thank you in advance.
jetlop56 open your hood and don’t touch a thing for 7minutes then disconnect the connector on your sbc and make to not press any buttons or open any doors basically don’t wake up the sleeping car and you’ll be good after connect the sbc the open your door and step on the brake pedal 4 times all the way down without the key in the ignition and your good
Nothing must come between the rotor and the hub, especially not that thick layer you put on, next; you have to disconnect the SBC system, I’ll say you were lucky when you disconnected the e-brake, that the pump didn’t start!
Please disconnect the negative main battery terminal before starting the brake job..Tq
Hola!!!!!! Alguien me puede platicar como cambiar el cubre Polvo del eje trasero del mercedes w211 el boot interno o cómo sacar el eje
Los vídeos son muy instructivos enhorabuena "buen trabajo" pero creo que deberías saber que a toda la tornilleria que afecta a los frenos, se le debe aplicar un fijador de roscas, Ejemplo: Loctite 243
what about sliding pins? CBS deactivated?
like the sarcasm "This is anti seize. and it prevents seizing" have you done any wheel bearing grease packs?
Nice video. Nice SL550. I liked the video but didn't like how you didn't show how you got the 18mm caliper bolts out and how you got them back in and torqued up with the torque wrench . I don't see how you got the leverage so close to the ground.
I agree with you. my rotors are rusting out and I got all the way up to these bolts and I'm stuck. I'm afraid of smoothing the bolt out. I have a torque wrench but they are not budging. what all did you use to get them loose?
Nice job ! Just wondering, this E-class is before the face lift, right ? Don't you have SBC ? Didn't you deactivate it before ?
+fatsoPL86 Oh did not see the post below, that you'd disconnected the SBC before the breaks got changed.
My friend, gobs of lubricant will also collect dirt. You need only a film, generally.
Good to see you back! Does your E have the SBC brakes?
Yes, it does. I did not show it, but I disconnected the electrical connector to the SBC before starting
+Car D. Ologist HI, I do everething myself with my MB thanks to Your movies ! It would be very helpful if You show how to disactivate and then activate SBS without StarDiagnosis. It is very important to do before doing anything with brakes in MB equipped in SBC and it's deadly dangerous for users who didn't disactivate SBC. I heard that this operation is possible without SD. Thanks one more time and all the best :) (I'm sorry for my language, but I'm still learning English )
You should have taken the 2 guide pins out and cleaned greased them to ensure even brake pad wear.
He tell you both have to be replaced rotors and breaks
You have 19mm lug nuts in your description.
SL has a common rail turboDiesel ? ha ha then i would buy one.
I wanted to learn how to replace just the pads, unfortunately you skipped over this part.
You have to replace both
Have to replace the rotors too they get ate
you are happy man if you dont have stucked screws.... i am not happy man