For you new guys visiting my channel for the first time, please read the following message: I currently own a 2017 Camaro SS alongside a 2017 Yamaha R6. I see a handful of comments saying/criticizing that I have(had) a 2015 Mustang V6. That was the car I could afford, at the time, in college. Real quick, what's wrong with buying or starting on a V6? I was going through a time of having fun and experimenting before I wanted to mess with a brand new V8. Also, take the time to watch literally ANY of my other videos before commenting; side note, did you guys not realize I LITERALLY stated in the video I modified my 2017 Camaro SS w/ control arms and trailing arms? Thank you for stopping by anyway.
sanavip yeah, because on a fwd car all the torque is on the motor mounts and transmission mounts. The same principles apply to an awd car also, stiffen the motor mounts and transmission mounts along with the differential mounts.
I almost started on a v6 96 Camaro. iv got a 2.4 fwd lancer now. But i dont think there is nothing wrong with tuning a v6 its cool to see an engines potential on a cars performance. I just think people dont like mustangs as much as Camaros. There just hating though which means your doing something right.
Its fine my dude my brother had a V6 Camaro before my current SRT 392, It was alot of fun. Its not always about racing even in a v6 mustang you will have a more comfortable and enjoyable experience than most cars on the road, people always have the assumption that its always about 60 rolls and such driving a muscle car when in reality its all about the experience; I cant explain to you the amount of girls we picked up, those endless and pointless late night cruises we had It was a blast. People will never stop criticizing some friends constantly tell me I should have bought a hellcat, but a hellcats bills and (possibly) reliability I cant handle right now and there is nothing wrong with that. All the best
Mod list: 0:40 - Paint your car yellow 1:13 - racing stripe 1:48 - add air holes 3:40 - lose weight 4:20 - use pencil sharpener for rear diff 4:55 - participation reward 6:15 - Winter is coming 5:21 - Just have this car :)
I mean if you have the skills to take full advantage of the increase in power and control on the road, you will master everything. However if you can't drive over water, steer properly, understand the conditions you're facing, adapt with a boost, etc. then you don't deserve to get the best, let alone drive a car.
You should add the "lightweight driver modification" to the list.. It's amazing how many 300+lbs guys are in the car and bike scene struggling for the win.
Every 100 lbs is worth a tenth of a second in the quarter mile . But that if your struggling for the extra tenth as a street car...then maybe your priorities are wrong. Best street car, is a V8 car. Torque, potential, light, etc.
Don’t most cars have ABS? If so, I’d think it means you have more than enough brake power, not enough traction. So tires or suspension would probably better.
Good point JacobBK1... You can have the baddest, fastest and most powerful car on the street or track. But if you can't slow it down or stop it reliably you are driving a 2-3000lb bullet! You don't have to spend a fortune on brakes, but most factory brake systems are only designed for normal daily driving(with a few exceptions of course!). Any time you start increasing power and speed and such, you HAVE to consider your braking at the same time!
Yea, I was like "he has that totally backwards", a higher ratio will give you a higher top speed and less acell... bad for the 1/4 or 0-60. All the numbers mean is how many times input(pinion) turns compared to output(ring).
i think he was thinking higher number. which is a lower gear ratio. At first i was like maybe he is trying to get to 60 in first and save time by no shifts LOL.
Andy........If I switch from 3.50:1 to 4.11:1 the number is higher but the gear ratio is lower; thus, lower gears will make the car "quicker" in the 1/4 mile
"Higher gear ratio" means a higher number, shorter/lower gears. "Lower gear ratio" means a lower number, taller/higher gears. 3.9:1 is a higher *ratio* than 3.42:1.
darius2640 yeah. The engine weighs a tonne (figurative), and so does the body. Take them off. Actually, while you're at it, get out of the car, you weigh quite a bit too ;)
TechFlick looking into a camaro… but im thinking stock since the car im going to buy will be ass… probably under 2k… now, i ride though… ninja 300 😋😂 it was easier to get and cost me less then 5k
SRT8 Nation I just got pulled over a bit ago because I accelerated 100 feet before a speed sign. Fuckin cops are violent on that around here. Whatever, just have to drive without on until I'm 21 now. 😂
techflick you know I'm not really sure how it's written but federal law states that a state government cannot take away your rights and issue you a license to use them.
Lower gear not higher gears! As the # grows the ratio drops., example=3:07 is higher than a 4:11... lower gears multiply torque to increase take off and puts the engine at a higher rpm for any given speed compared to a higher gear which makes car feel more powerful, better throttle response, quicker acceleration. This mod does NOT lead to less mileage because most newer vehicles have overdrive to lower final drive ratio. Top speed will be less but how often do you travel at full speed? FYI
Very good except, lower gears will decrease mileage. The overdrive doesn't change because you change gears. The engine will have to rev higher for a given speed in a given gear to go the same speed as with a higher rear end gear. Higher RPMs at a given speed = less MPGs.
Although I understand the way gearing works I often default the term higher gears to something like a 4.11 because although yes it is a lower gear most people don’t realize it’s opposite of what they would think and my reason for that is because I assume when someone says higher gears they don’t understand gears because they would use the terms taller and shorter gears if they did
I'm not sure if you're aware, but 2 piece prop shaft is used for one more reason, more important than riding comfort. All materials tend to expand under higher temperatures and - quite obviously - prop shaft will expand underneath the car cause of heat produced by friction forces within transmission parts, but also because of high road temperature and hot exhaust system. If you got one long prop shaft, it'll eventually expand and deform due to heat, which will lead to damage to other parts of your transmission (box, diff) as prop will start wobbling around while rotating. Two-piece prop shaft with CV joint is used to prevent this type of damage because it contains 2 shorter bars and CV joint with extra support in the middle, so lifetime of your transmission is far longer
Who cares about top speed...even in germany it's such a rare occurence to be able to let loose completely that you can't really enjoy it - stoplights on the other hand are always in plentiful supply
It's lower gearing. Yes the number of the gear is a bigger number but the bigger the number the lower the gear. Example if you have a 3.73 gear that means the drive shaft spins 3.73 times to the wheels 1 time if you have a 4.11 gear the shaft spins 4.11 times to the wheels 1 time. So the bigger the number in the rear end the lower the overall gearing is. Good vid though
It's better said as the Higher the number the lower the ratio meaning the HP required to turn the pinion is lower and the lower the number the higher the ratio meaning the the HP required to turn the pinion is higher. You could also think of 2500 rpm is at let's say 55mph with 4.10 gears and 71 with 3.27 gears.
For the first mod, you might have gotten just as much of an impact by just changing out the bushings for polyurethane. I'm kind of surprised that a ligthweight flywheel wasn't on here. I've had one in a rwd and fwd car, the difference was night and day.
MasterOfTitties74 not true at all. Especially the new V6s, they aren’t slow by any means. Sure you’re not gonna go out and race hellcats in a stock one but that doesn’t mean they aren’t driver cars. Shit, strap or turbo on it and it’ll probably walk most 5.0s.
MasterOfTitties74 well yeah, I owned a 99 V6 as well, was my 2nd car but stuff like an intake and a few other mods won’t make it really fast or anything but they give them character and make them fun to drive. I learned more about handling and taking corners from that car than anything else to this day and it’s because I took the time to enjoy and learn about all the little bits and pieces and got it to handle the way I want.
Tires is the most over looked mod? Yea, maybe for people who don't know jack shit about cars and think power = 100% win rate. For everyone who knows cars though, and is into actually upgrading, tires is close to if not the #1 thing, or at the very least one of the first things that gets upgraded. Those people wondering why they are having trouble with their times only got the car because of the numbers on paper. Those are the types of people that go to a shop and basically tell them "hey, my car is to slow. Put some more power into it, here's some money, make it happen".
Tire is one of the biggest bang for the buck mod. Light rim with sticky rubber is enough to shed 3 second off on my stock civic in a 50 some seconds auto cross track. That is 6% performance gain with loosening and tightening few nuts, with no trade off on reliability.
No joke about swapping to a higher gear ratio. Especially on heavy vehicles. I swapped my Suburban from the stock 3.42 to 4.10, which is not a huge leap, but it made a huge difference in how snappy the truck gets off on a launch. Obviously I'm not racing a Sub but it really does help tremendously
Random person Learn as much as u can now.. save ur self the headache and money later on trust us. Keep ur car dreams alive. If its a vett or lambo never tell urself u cant have one. 👊
The #1 forgotten performance mods is BETTER BRAKES. Massive hp increases are a waste of money if all they do is cause you to run your car into a tree or a wall because you can no longer stop when you need to. I've seen this happen to so many people. You might as well just burn the money you spend on the upgrades AND the car without good brakes.
On independent suspension, the differential bushings don't affect the wheel hop unless they are loose enough that the housing can move around visibly, as the wheels are only connected via the cv shafts and therefore unaffected by the differential moving . And most likely the improvement with the one piece was due purely to the lighter weight aluminum (less parasitic drag) and not the single piece design itself.
it's not just the mass of the single piece drive shaft, it's the fact that there's not uni joint in the middle that robs some of the energy through friction in the joint itself...
Reducing unsprung weight helps as well ... especially rotational, like tires and wheels. It also allows the suspension to improve tire contact with the road.
Two piece drive shafts are to increase ground clearance and reduce the amount of wear and tear on your u-joints, since they are supported in the middle by a bracket there is not as much weight being supported directly by the diff bearings and u-joints.
I agree with control arms as an upgrade however to clarify for you. In MOST cases, the upgraded parts have nothing to do with structural integrity. Steel is very strong and the holes there are for a reduction in weight. Swapping to different arms themselves are generally for a lighter design and/or adjustabity for fine tuning alignment. The bushings in the control arm is also a point of improvement. Factory bushings are soft rubber and often have voids in them to allow them to flex and offer a smoother ride. Upgraded bushings are often a rubber with higher durometer content, polyurethane, or the holy grail that is the heim joint or spherical bearing. All These offer much less deflection in the suspension. especially under hard cornering, the soft rubber with allow a shift in suspension compromising the alignment settings and possibly making the car unsteady. Locking down the suspension is always a smart thing to do if you wanna go fast.
you can apply all of these mods to a FWD if the parts are available and don't forget the LSD and the sway bar upgrades as well. polyurethane bushings are awesome.
On the note of the one piece driveshaft upgrade, you need to first check if you need to do any modifications to the frame and crossmembers. Someone swapped one of my trucks to a one piece before I got it, but they didn't check clearances. When the rear axle drops more than 5 inches, the shaft grinds on the second-aftmost crossmember. Not a hard thing to solve, but still something to worry about.
Doing bushing upgrades does more than minimize wheel hop in a straight line. It helps with lateral loads like cornering as well. Also, you don't get HIGHER ratio gears for lower 0-60 times. You get LOWER gear ratios that have a HIGHER numerical value. If you start a car in 1st gear, it is the lowest gear with, for example, a 3 to 1 ratio. If you start a car in 5th, it is in a high gear with close to a 1 to 1 ratio. Even though first has a higher numerical value, it is still a lower gear.
The way your speaking is edited together is extremely annoying. It almost sounds like you mashed together a bunch of different takes to form one sentence. Good content, though.
It sounds like he wrote everything out but is one of those individuals who struggle with reading. You've probably had a classmate at some point in time like this.
Significantly? Depends on how much you think is significant. 0.2 secs off my 1/4 mile to me was nice! However, you will CONSISTENTLY run good times instead of running a couple good runs and a few bad runs w/o these drive train/suspension mods.
Tires make a huge huge difference, the oem ones that came in my maxima are really stiff and when I bought a pair of new ones it changed so much it felt like a different car
One thing needed to be talked about with higher gearing is the higher it goes, the higher your cruising rpm is. So if you have a three speed.. don't get 4.11 gears on a car that you use on the street because you'll be cruising at 5000 rpm at 50 mph
Please don't put higher gears in your car thinking you will go faster 0-60 and in the 1/4 mile. You have it backwards lower gears higher the number. High gear lower number. High gear more top end. Lower gear less top end but faster off the start. Picking the right gear depends on the cars hp, weight and rpm band also what type of racing your planning to do. I can explain in better detail if needed just ask.
Wayne Bollentin the term high and low is kind of a misnomer. Best represent as tall and short, shorter gears have a higher number, taller gears have a lower number so yes, "high" gears meaning gear ratios above 4.1 provide higher 0-60 and "lower" gears (tall gears) provide more top end.
ShortManFilms ShortManFilms I'm not sure what your trying to tell me here. I have a complete understanding whats going on. I been drag racing and installing gears for years. I also kept it simple. That's why I said there are other factors. Saying tall and short is just another way of saying what i already said. I understand this is confusing for some people. It's even harder now with these new 10speed automatic's that don't need a 4.11 to get off the line like a 3 or 4speed auto does. And again it still depends on so many things what the right gear is. Tall and short term is used more with the gearing in a like a 4speed or etc transmission then in the rear. When talking about the rear it's low or high gearing. I still think we argee my first comment was correct tho...
Wayne Bollentin I was saying "higher" gears do indeed provide more acceleration in exchange for lower top speed. Yes there are other factors as to whether you need them or not but physics is physics.
ShortManFilms in the world of drag racing you ask for a higher gear you will end up with more top end. If you want less top end more of the line it's called lower gears. Does it make sense maybe not when the number is higher on lower gears but that's just the way it is. This is the Reason people get confused
Confusion comes from the fact we're only talking about one part of the gear ratio. 1/3 is greater than 1/4, so a 1:3 gearing is "higher" than a 1:4 gearing, even though 4 is bigger number than 3.
U-joint does not always mean "universal joint" a lot of the time it's called a u joint because of the shape of the two interlocking pieces that look like a u
No, the center mount and universal joint on your drive shaft is to reduce the axial load on the transmission bearings when the differential moves up and down with the suspension. Of course removing it brings down your times but so would a stiffer two piece driveshaft.
yeah changing your drive train linkage to a one piece is essentially doing the same thing as a fly wheel but also giving a more rigid delivery of power to the differential
One of the best mods I did for my F body was polyurethane motor and transmission mounts. Firmed up shifts, improved responsiveness, and just made the driving experience that much more connected.
Control arms for launch stability? I think that's a American car problem. No European car or Japanese car I know don't have these issues with the same power because their engineers aren't lazy.
The two piece drive shaft is also for safety reasons, it is supposed to break in a crash so that you dont get your chest crushed by your steering wheel.
3:30 I very much doubt that you have the data to confirm whether that time difference is actually significant. I bet that difference is in your margin of error instead. You'd need a robot or professional driver to figure out if that 0.3 seconds is a significant difference
Now you're just moving the goalposts. He said it made him faster without any proof. Even in the description he says these mods will help you launch faster. Butt dyno doesn't prove shit. He probably just got better. Mason go google statistical significance to make sure you know what you're talking about. Why people love to blindly defend others is lost on me
He used to own a V6 Mustang. He literally says at the start, that he just bought some mods for his 2017 Camaro SS. If you watch literally any of his other videos, you will see said Camaro along with a Yamaha R6.
Great video! i know it is a very short video, however tire size is important, fresh slick oils through out power train helps, headers with H-pipe always helps (can be expensive), engine air filtering, tune up, if drag racing front tires should be high, rear tires low 12psi (if tires can handle it) . Traction bars used to be cheap, and believe they help even newer cars
Dont forget.. if your going to be laying rubber, upgrade your transmission and differential fluids. Also, upgrading your transmission solenoids can give you faster, harder shifts.
As for gearing, higher actually means lower numbers. Example: 3.08:1 vs. 4.11:1, the 308's are highway gears, made for high speed and low revs. The 411's are performance gearing, faster acceleration but sacrificing of top speed, unless cruising at sixty miles per hour at 4000 revs is your thing.
A rule of thumb I've heard when racing RC cars (the high-end hobby-grade ones, for anyone who's unfamiliar) is that 1oz of rotating mass is equivalent to 2oz of static mass. Is that a good assumption for full-size cars as well?
Yeah I agree tires are so overlooked. I have an 86 f150 that had really sketchy tires, the brand was "star fire" At good old Canadian tire they had a really good sale on some tires so I bought em. What a difference, the damn thing actually kinda handles now lol
its the bushings that made all the difference in the world for you, im sure theyre alot stiffer possibly even a harder poly like alot are, the factory parts are ok but the tubes nice because its lights and adjustable, but the factory ones are plenty strong. the only time iv seen those have problems is when a guy brought a camaro in that he slid into a huge curb doing donuts in a parking lot ..it was surprising how little damage was actually done to the car tho.
The only thing I can't keep myself from mentioning... regarding gear ratios, the higher the "number" compared to 1 (3.73:1, 4.11:1, 4.56:1, etc.), the lower the gear RATIO. The effects you describe are associated with a LOWER gear ratio, not higher. If the gear ratio reduces the angular velocity (rpm) of input to output, then the torque is increased from input to output. I.e. 3.73:1 the input (pinion/driveshaft) has to rotate 3.73 times for the output to rotate once. Angular velocity is divided by 3.73, torque multiplied by 3.73 If you reduce that to say 4.56:1, the torque output will be multiplied by 4.56 instead of 3.73 meaning better acceleration. The angular velocity is divided 4.56 meaning reduced top speed and fuel mileage since the engine will be spinning faster at cruising speeds.
Before you significantly increase power I always recommend making sure you can stop. I assume a 2017 SS camaro has pretty damn good brakes, but I'm sure there are some upgraded pad materials available.
Just a few thoughts. You are referring to the center support bearing elimination. Universal joints on either end of the one piece driveshaft. Yes, you do lose one u-joint in the process. And yes, A lower gear ratio will decrease your off the line times. Higher number ratios means lower gear ratios ! Otherwise, all good tips !
The thing most people forget about when thinking about mods to make the car faster is how the car is going to stop afterwards. Adding power without adding breaking ability and increasing control just make you look like an idiot, if not dead.
You forgot another weight saving, rotational mass freeing mod. Going with lightweight, forged aluminum wheels. You reduce 6-8 lbs of rotational mass at all four corners and you'll pick up time through the quarter and they're stronger too!
Awesome video! I wish you would have showed a side by side comparison of the control arms. You don't have to remind us about what other channels have talked about in the past. We're here for your commentary and facts. I personally enjoy the videos of you cruising and showing clip art instead of the full clip art videos. Scenery is awesome lol. Keep up the great work, I look forward to future vids from you and your brother!
You have the whole gear thing backwards. Lower gears are more performance oriented. Like a 4.10:1 ratio is considered a lower gear than a 3.27:1. Lower gears allow for better performance but lower mileage and raise your RPMs at a given speed vs the higher gears.
For you new guys visiting my channel for the first time, please read the following message:
I currently own a 2017 Camaro SS alongside a 2017 Yamaha R6.
I see a handful of comments saying/criticizing that I have(had) a 2015 Mustang V6. That was the car I could afford, at the time, in college. Real quick, what's wrong with buying or starting on a V6? I was going through a time of having fun and experimenting before I wanted to mess with a brand new V8.
Also, take the time to watch literally ANY of my other videos before commenting; side note, did you guys not realize I LITERALLY stated in the video I modified my 2017 Camaro SS w/ control arms and trailing arms?
Thank you for stopping by anyway.
i'm new here, great video, thanks, btw in place of differential bushings for FWD car owners say to change engine mounts.
sanavip yeah, because on a fwd car all the torque is on the motor mounts and transmission mounts. The same principles apply to an awd car also, stiffen the motor mounts and transmission mounts along with the differential mounts.
2017 Yamaha R6 is not good bike
I almost started on a v6 96 Camaro. iv got a 2.4 fwd lancer now.
But i dont think there is nothing wrong with tuning a v6 its cool to see an engines potential on a cars performance. I just think people dont like mustangs as much as Camaros. There just hating though which means your doing something right.
Its fine my dude my brother had a V6 Camaro before my current SRT 392, It was alot of fun. Its not always about racing even in a v6 mustang you will have a more comfortable and enjoyable experience than most cars on the road, people always have the assumption that its always about 60 rolls and such driving a muscle car when in reality its all about the experience; I cant explain to you the amount of girls we picked up, those endless and pointless late night cruises we had It was a blast. People will never stop criticizing some friends constantly tell me I should have bought a hellcat, but a hellcats bills and (possibly) reliability I cant handle right now and there is nothing wrong with that. All the best
Straight cut gears are fun
but not for your neighbors
Wheeeeeeeeeeeeee
@@laurentiu.panait2536 *clunk* WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
@@Wabeeninc *clunk* WRRRR- _silence_
sorry guys i money shifted
Why?
Mod list:
0:40 - Paint your car yellow
1:13 - racing stripe
1:48 - add air holes
3:40 - lose weight
4:20 - use pencil sharpener for rear diff
4:55 - participation reward
6:15 - Winter is coming
5:21 - Just have this car :)
First mod??? Driver talent
best and most important mod ever
True and weight of the driver lol
Daniel Thomas no argument there!
Daniel Thomas lol
I mean if you have the skills to take full advantage of the increase in power and control on the road, you will master everything.
However if you can't drive over water, steer properly, understand the conditions you're facing, adapt with a boost, etc. then you don't deserve to get the best, let alone drive a car.
You should add the "lightweight driver modification" to the list.. It's amazing how many 300+lbs guys are in the car and bike scene struggling for the win.
This is actually me. Im only 299 tho. Struggling for the win? Well, I started with. 7,000 lbs 4x4. Sooooo, It's not entirely my bodys fault.
Something_Unreal Now you made me feel like a fat ass.
Lol it’s always the biggest guys in the little ek hatch Hondas 🤣
A jet engine would help too
Every 100 lbs is worth a tenth of a second in the quarter mile . But that if your struggling for the extra tenth as a street car...then maybe your priorities are wrong. Best street car, is a V8 car. Torque, potential, light, etc.
A forgotten mod is brakes!
Levi Thompson a great set of pads with slotted rotors (not drilled)and steel braided lines will make you stop faster and have better pedal feel.
not really forgotten, its one of the first mods people do if they actually track their cars and not just drag race.
Don’t most cars have ABS? If so, I’d think it means you have more than enough brake power, not enough traction. So tires or suspension would probably better.
Good point JacobBK1... You can have the baddest, fastest and most powerful car on the street or track. But if you can't slow it down or stop it reliably you are driving a 2-3000lb bullet! You don't have to spend a fortune on brakes, but most factory brake systems are only designed for normal daily driving(with a few exceptions of course!). Any time you start increasing power and speed and such, you HAVE to consider your braking at the same time!
JacobBK1 you mean the pussy pedal
5 most forgotten modifications are
1 milling a head
2 multi angle valve jobs
3 knifing a crank
4 adding a posi
5 work with what ya got and hotrod!
This is a much better top 5 👍
A higher gear ratio would make you slower. A numerically higher ratio is a "lower gear"
LocoGTR not if you are racing g quarter mile or 1/8
Yea, I was like "he has that totally backwards", a higher ratio will give you a higher top speed and less acell... bad for the 1/4 or 0-60. All the numbers mean is how many times input(pinion) turns compared to output(ring).
i think he was thinking higher number. which is a lower gear ratio. At first i was like maybe he is trying to get to 60 in first and save time by no shifts LOL.
Andy........If I switch from 3.50:1 to 4.11:1 the number is higher but the gear ratio is lower; thus, lower gears will make the car "quicker" in the 1/4 mile
"Higher gear ratio" means a higher number, shorter/lower gears. "Lower gear ratio" means a lower number, taller/higher gears. 3.9:1 is a higher *ratio* than 3.42:1.
do a tutorial on the best mods for an 18 wheeler
rylothh 基督教 *STRAIGHTPIPE IT*
rylothh 基督教 egr dpf delete
20ft tall shift lever
10 inch lift kit
rylothh 基督教 mostly engine mods better injectors better coolers better hoses shit like that
"Your rear-end will be more stable,when you´re trying to launch hard
5 best mods for beginners: Tyres, brakes, coilovers, swaybars, light weight wheels (huge difference, much lighter & more responsive steering).
Tyres
weight reduction is best mod
darius2640 yeah. The engine weighs a tonne (figurative), and so does the body. Take them off. Actually, while you're at it, get out of the car, you weigh quite a bit too ;)
darius2640 no because you lose grip/traction
Get rust cheapest weight reduction. Vapes bruh?
There's never one best solution for every vehicle. If it has a decent power to weight ratio to start, your money/time can be better spent elsewhere.
JDog Vids wrong
Don't have a car neither a driving license but your videos are entertaining! Keep it up
TechFlick looking into a camaro… but im thinking stock since the car im going to buy will be ass… probably under 2k… now, i ride though… ninja 300 😋😂 it was easier to get and cost me less then 5k
TechFlick it is entertaining… 🤷🏽♂️
SRT8 Nation I just got pulled over a bit ago because I accelerated 100 feet before a speed sign. Fuckin cops are violent on that around here. Whatever, just have to drive without on until I'm 21 now. 😂
techflick you know I'm not really sure how it's written but federal law states that a state government cannot take away your rights and issue you a license to use them.
TechFlick Stfu he dont need advice from a kid
It's all about them used, cracked, rotted tires boi
yuuuuh... just do a burn out n they good as new! 🙃
Yeah they are really good, but why am I in a ditch with red fruit punch everywhere?
Lower gear not higher gears! As the # grows the ratio drops., example=3:07 is higher than a 4:11... lower gears multiply torque to increase take off and puts the engine at a higher rpm for any given speed compared to a higher gear which makes car feel more powerful, better throttle response, quicker acceleration. This mod does NOT lead to less mileage because most newer vehicles have overdrive to lower final drive ratio. Top speed will be less but how often do you travel at full speed? FYI
Very good except, lower gears will decrease mileage. The overdrive doesn't change because you change gears. The engine will have to rev higher for a given speed in a given gear to go the same speed as with a higher rear end gear. Higher RPMs at a given speed = less MPGs.
Although I understand the way gearing works I often default the term higher gears to something like a 4.11 because although yes it is a lower gear most people don’t realize it’s opposite of what they would think and my reason for that is because I assume when someone says higher gears they don’t understand gears because they would use the terms taller and shorter gears if they did
so more accelaration?
They would use the terms higher or lower if they did.
Thomas PC so higher accelaration?
#1: driver mod. People wonder why they go slow when they haven’t put practice in or gotten professional help.
I'm not sure if you're aware, but 2 piece prop shaft is used for one more reason, more important than riding comfort. All materials tend to expand under higher temperatures and - quite obviously - prop shaft will expand underneath the car cause of heat produced by friction forces within transmission parts, but also because of high road temperature and hot exhaust system. If you got one long prop shaft, it'll eventually expand and deform due to heat, which will lead to damage to other parts of your transmission (box, diff) as prop will start wobbling around while rotating. Two-piece prop shaft with CV joint is used to prevent this type of damage because it contains 2 shorter bars and CV joint with extra support in the middle, so lifetime of your transmission is far longer
Who cares about top speed...even in germany it's such a rare occurence to be able to let loose completely that you can't really enjoy it - stoplights on the other hand are always in plentiful supply
Forgotten by ppl that ain't serious about it
It's lower gearing. Yes the number of the gear is a bigger number but the bigger the number the lower the gear. Example if you have a 3.73 gear that means the drive shaft spins 3.73 times to the wheels 1 time if you have a 4.11 gear the shaft spins 4.11 times to the wheels 1 time. So the bigger the number in the rear end the lower the overall gearing is. Good vid though
Scott Lang like you said it’s just gear ratios; small gear driving a big gear vs big gear driving a small gear.
I wish I knew what you were talking about lol I wanna learn more about cars!
It's better said as the Higher the number the lower the ratio meaning the HP required to turn the pinion is lower and the lower the number the higher the ratio meaning the the HP required to turn the pinion is higher. You could also think of 2500 rpm is at let's say 55mph with 4.10 gears and 71 with 3.27 gears.
I would've thought having stiffer rear springs would have a greater effect on stopping the rear end being squirrely over changing the control arms
Do top forgotten supercars
Go on bladed angel’s channel.
Heuristic X Ok
I have a whole series about that. Each car even get's it's own video.
Bladed Angel Oh im new to both of your channel and so far i love your vids
GabePlays BOSS check out Alfa Guy
For the first mod, you might have gotten just as much of an impact by just changing out the bushings for polyurethane.
I'm kind of surprised that a ligthweight flywheel wasn't on here. I've had one in a rwd and fwd car, the difference was night and day.
$899 to get 0.2 seconds off a v6 mustang? Lol
Ash .2 is quite a bit in car terms
Ash Pay to play sir
900 bucks isn't shit when your building a car I just spent 5k on parts I'm waiting to get here
MasterOfTitties74 not true at all. Especially the new V6s, they aren’t slow by any means. Sure you’re not gonna go out and race hellcats in a stock one but that doesn’t mean they aren’t driver cars. Shit, strap or turbo on it and it’ll probably walk most 5.0s.
MasterOfTitties74 well yeah, I owned a 99 V6 as well, was my 2nd car but stuff like an intake and a few other mods won’t make it really fast or anything but they give them character and make them fun to drive. I learned more about handling and taking corners from that car than anything else to this day and it’s because I took the time to enjoy and learn about all the little bits and pieces and got it to handle the way I want.
Tires and the best suspension money can buy are always my first mod. Makes the biggest difference when you want to go fast and not crash.
Tires is the most over looked mod? Yea, maybe for people who don't know jack shit about cars and think power = 100% win rate. For everyone who knows cars though, and is into actually upgrading, tires is close to if not the #1 thing, or at the very least one of the first things that gets upgraded. Those people wondering why they are having trouble with their times only got the car because of the numbers on paper. Those are the types of people that go to a shop and basically tell them "hey, my car is to slow. Put some more power into it, here's some money, make it happen".
Tire is one of the biggest bang for the buck mod. Light rim with sticky rubber is enough to shed 3 second off on my stock civic in a 50 some seconds auto cross track. That is 6% performance gain with loosening and tightening few nuts, with no trade off on reliability.
Did you mean WHEEL?
The best mod is lighter lug nuts
No joke about swapping to a higher gear ratio. Especially on heavy vehicles. I swapped my Suburban from the stock 3.42 to 4.10, which is not a huge leap, but it made a huge difference in how snappy the truck gets off on a launch. Obviously I'm not racing a Sub but it really does help tremendously
Why am I watching your videos I'm not even old enough to drive.
AndonPickles u probably going to be a car guy i geuss
I’m 11 and I’m already a car guy
Random person
Learn as much as u can now.. save ur self the headache and money later on trust us. Keep ur car dreams alive. If its a vett or lambo never tell urself u cant have one. 👊
IBENOUTMYMIND I found a 1999 porsche boxter for $5786, 120k miles and decent condition so I mean it wouldnt be hard to really
MLGRC
Ata boy! Ride that shit till the wheels fall off
The #1 forgotten performance mods is BETTER BRAKES. Massive hp increases are a waste of money if all they do is cause you to run your car into a tree or a wall because you can no longer stop when you need to. I've seen this happen to so many people. You might as well just burn the money you spend on the upgrades AND the car without good brakes.
you should get a *r o l l c a g e*
On independent suspension, the differential bushings don't affect the wheel hop unless they are loose enough that the housing can move around visibly, as the wheels are only connected via the cv shafts and therefore unaffected by the differential moving . And most likely the improvement with the one piece was due purely to the lighter weight aluminum (less parasitic drag) and not the single piece design itself.
Change your tires, its a forgotten mod.
I love your channel because you cut right to the point, love it
great video idea
it's not just the mass of the single piece drive shaft, it's the fact that there's not uni joint in the middle that robs some of the energy through friction in the joint itself...
Idk y but i like these omni rider vids
Reducing unsprung weight helps as well ... especially rotational, like tires and wheels. It also allows the suspension to improve tire contact with the road.
Anybody from the Big Wang Gang? Just me...ok im just gonna leave.
Big Wang Gang for life
Two piece drive shafts are to increase ground clearance and reduce the amount of wear and tear on your u-joints, since they are supported in the middle by a bracket there is not as much weight being supported directly by the diff bearings and u-joints.
I love how you mentioned big car CZcamsrs, but didnt mention Bladed angel ;)
Dynoids it's his lil bro
I know its his brother haha, hence the " ;) "
I agree with control arms as an upgrade however to clarify for you. In MOST cases, the upgraded parts have nothing to do with structural integrity. Steel is very strong and the holes there are for a reduction in weight. Swapping to different arms themselves are generally for a lighter design and/or adjustabity for fine tuning alignment. The bushings in the control arm is also a point of improvement. Factory bushings are soft rubber and often have voids in them to allow them to flex and offer a smoother ride. Upgraded bushings are often a rubber with higher durometer content, polyurethane, or the holy grail that is the heim joint or spherical bearing. All These offer much less deflection in the suspension. especially under hard cornering, the soft rubber with allow a shift in suspension compromising the alignment settings and possibly making the car unsteady. Locking down the suspension is always a smart thing to do if you wanna go fast.
In my opinion mainly tires and Suspension is the best mod for a track car! I gained crazy amounts of time with new coilovers!
I too was having trouble launching my car off the line, I found the easiest mod was to upgrade to a Koenigsegg Agera RS.
and then you had problem Not to launch the car off the line huh ??? You should degrade back to your car ASAP ...LOL
@@georgeisaak5321 woooosh
you can apply all of these mods to a FWD if the parts are available and don't forget the LSD and the sway bar upgrades as well. polyurethane bushings are awesome.
Love the Videos!!
Nice video ! I'd also suggest the brake system upgrades as one of the first car upgrades, especially for road or track racing!
But but what if you have to drag race a guy on a highway during a snow storm? 😢
Malicious Affection you turn your license in because you’re to stupid
I suggest aiming for the nearest brick wall and solving that problem... permanently.
Pickup truck, gnarly tires, and two sandbags in the back....
Then you need this car: czcams.com/video/qwRUyL5Cqgk/video.html
Get a Subaru
On the note of the one piece driveshaft upgrade, you need to first check if you need to do any modifications to the frame and crossmembers. Someone swapped one of my trucks to a one piece before I got it, but they didn't check clearances. When the rear axle drops more than 5 inches, the shaft grinds on the second-aftmost crossmember. Not a hard thing to solve, but still something to worry about.
You should have more subscribers! Your channel is gonna blow up one day👍🏼
That escalated quickly
Isaiah Hamilton did you not get ole dudes notification when he replied but got mine
Isaiah Hamilton happened to me too, it’s always awkward af
Doing bushing upgrades does more than minimize wheel hop in a straight line. It helps with lateral loads like cornering as well. Also, you don't get HIGHER ratio gears for lower 0-60 times. You get LOWER gear ratios that have a HIGHER numerical value. If you start a car in 1st gear, it is the lowest gear with, for example, a 3 to 1 ratio. If you start a car in 5th, it is in a high gear with close to a 1 to 1 ratio. Even though first has a higher numerical value, it is still a lower gear.
The way your speaking is edited together is extremely annoying. It almost sounds like you mashed together a bunch of different takes to form one sentence. Good content, though.
17456spartan Sounds like a robot.
Sounds like that one kid who'd get called on to read aloud from the textbook in 5th grade and was a little, um, "behind"
Sounds like he's getting a handy while he talks
It sounds like he wrote everything out but is one of those individuals who struggle with reading. You've probably had a classmate at some point in time like this.
Purus The FoX you. better. be. getting
LSD rear end, subframe connectors, transmission shift kits stall converters trans brake, performance clutch. Solid motor mounts or engine plates. Big brake kits, line lock. Proper tuning after upgrades, Dino Time.
Do the mods on this list decrease 0-60 significantly?
They should increase it by a little
Significantly? Depends on how much you think is significant. 0.2 secs off my 1/4 mile to me was nice!
However, you will CONSISTENTLY run good times instead of running a couple good runs and a few bad runs w/o these drive train/suspension mods.
Tires make a huge huge difference, the oem ones that came in my maxima are really stiff and when I bought a pair of new ones it changed so much it felt like a different car
Do a vid for best mods for a Evo and STI
1. Lift it
2. Rally it
3. Crash it
4. Buy a Focus Rs instead
One thing needed to be talked about with higher gearing is the higher it goes, the higher your cruising rpm is. So if you have a three speed.. don't get 4.11 gears on a car that you use on the street because you'll be cruising at 5000 rpm at 50 mph
Please don't put higher gears in your car thinking you will go faster 0-60 and in the 1/4 mile. You have it backwards lower gears higher the number. High gear lower number. High gear more top end. Lower gear less top end but faster off the start. Picking the right gear depends on the cars hp, weight and rpm band also what type of racing your planning to do. I can explain in better detail if needed just ask.
Wayne Bollentin the term high and low is kind of a misnomer. Best represent as tall and short, shorter gears have a higher number, taller gears have a lower number so yes, "high" gears meaning gear ratios above 4.1 provide higher 0-60 and "lower" gears (tall gears) provide more top end.
ShortManFilms ShortManFilms I'm not sure what your trying to tell me here. I have a complete understanding whats going on. I been drag racing and installing gears for years. I also kept it simple. That's why I said there are other factors. Saying tall and short is just another way of saying what i already said. I understand this is confusing for some people. It's even harder now with these new 10speed automatic's that don't need a 4.11 to get off the line like a 3 or 4speed auto does. And again it still depends on so many things what the right gear is. Tall and short term is used more with the gearing in a like a 4speed or etc transmission then in the rear. When talking about the rear it's low or high gearing. I still think we argee my first comment was correct tho...
Wayne Bollentin I was saying "higher" gears do indeed provide more acceleration in exchange for lower top speed. Yes there are other factors as to whether you need them or not but physics is physics.
ShortManFilms in the world of drag racing you ask for a higher gear you will end up with more top end. If you want less top end more of the line it's called lower gears. Does it make sense maybe not when the number is higher on lower gears but that's just the way it is. This is the Reason people get confused
Confusion comes from the fact we're only talking about one part of the gear ratio. 1/3 is greater than 1/4, so a 1:3 gearing is "higher" than a 1:4 gearing, even though 4 is bigger number than 3.
The driveshaft mod really isn't just the driveshaft, it's the change from a u-joint to a cv-joint.
U-joint does not always mean "universal joint" a lot of the time it's called a u joint because of the shape of the two interlocking pieces that look like a u
M Jasz you just explained a universal joint.
Th....that’s why it stands for a universal joint
And the bearing in the middle isn't a u joint it's called a midship or carrier bearing
Not only does a high gear mean a faster quarter mile, it also means being able to accelerate out of a corner quicker than your oppenent.
Will the first mod be good if u want to make a drift car?
it will absolutely kill your daily drivability and i really dont recommend it but welding your diff will help drifting
Coilovers
the first mod will reduce wheelspin, so no
+MrSoda Yes of course.
professional drift driver is #1 mod
No, the center mount and universal joint on your drive shaft is to reduce the axial load on the transmission bearings when the differential moves up and down with the suspension. Of course removing it brings down your times but so would a stiffer two piece driveshaft.
im pretty sure no of these are "forgotten" mods
These mods will surely help me keep my 100HP Honda under control. :D
he said v6 mustang. pfft go buy a prius.
yeah changing your drive train linkage to a one piece is essentially doing the same thing as a fly wheel but also giving a more rigid delivery of power to the differential
Wait these aren't 'mods' these are all just putting right things wrong from the factory, American cars and their ancient suspension
One of the best mods I did for my F body was polyurethane motor and transmission mounts. Firmed up shifts, improved responsiveness, and just made the driving experience that much more connected.
Could he do a best Mods for FWD video.
Dylan Bowerman here's my top 5 (In no order)
1) Sell car
2) buy rwd or awd
3) have fun
if you have a fwd car you dont need to mod your car
You butthurt fuckers need to drive an integra type R around a grip track
Owen Hughes lol, only person here that's butthurt is you 😂 and the only thing the type R has going for it is that it's a light car
yeah your the only one cussing cause you have a bad fwd vehicle that cant do a 0-60 in under 10 seconds. silly butthurt special kids these days 🤦
To add to the tire mod. The width of the tire, including the width of the wheel. It will improves handling and traction too.
Control arms for launch stability? I think that's a American car problem. No European car or Japanese car I know don't have these issues with the same power because their engineers aren't lazy.
sharpemang too busy with electrical problems
not sure what you're talking about
If you push the car past it's factory power you will have a problem with it, it's just that most people don't realize it.
Jesus Alvarez lol what? Japanese manufacturers almost never cheap out on electrical components. American companies always have and always will.
I don't have those issues in my American rwd v8 sedan either but stiffer is better. Even when the car was designed for twisties
The two piece drive shaft is also for safety reasons, it is supposed to break in a crash so that you dont get your chest crushed by your steering wheel.
3:30 I very much doubt that you have the data to confirm whether that time difference is actually significant. I bet that difference is in your margin of error instead. You'd need a robot or professional driver to figure out if that 0.3 seconds is a significant difference
Berenger Christy 3 tenths is a substantial difference in a 1/4 mile. Obviously you don't race.
That isn't my argument. I don't think you know what the term significant means in this context even though I spelled it out pretty clearly
Berenger Christy yeah but that's not the point as these mods were not about necessarily making you faster but improving the overall balance of the csr
Berenger Christy any kind of racing, .3 is a shitton
Now you're just moving the goalposts. He said it made him faster without any proof. Even in the description he says these mods will help you launch faster. Butt dyno doesn't prove shit. He probably just got better. Mason go google statistical significance to make sure you know what you're talking about. Why people love to blindly defend others is lost on me
The rotational mass of the driveshaft is insignificant because of its width. Inertia only visibly affects objects with large radii, like the wheels.
Mustang V6……:))))
why would you buy a muscle car that has a v6 its just retarded
Exactly....
He used to own a V6 Mustang. He literally says at the start, that he just bought some mods for his 2017 Camaro SS. If you watch literally any of his other videos, you will see said Camaro along with a Yamaha R6.
Bladed Angel Okay...Btw i Love you video XD
Great video! i know it is a very short video, however tire size is important, fresh slick oils through out power train helps, headers with H-pipe always helps (can be expensive), engine air filtering, tune up, if drag racing front tires should be high, rear tires low 12psi (if tires can handle it) . Traction bars used to be cheap, and believe they help even newer cars
Dont forget.. if your going to be laying rubber, upgrade your transmission and differential fluids. Also, upgrading your transmission solenoids can give you faster, harder shifts.
As for gearing, higher actually means lower numbers. Example: 3.08:1 vs. 4.11:1, the 308's are highway gears, made for high speed and low revs. The 411's are performance gearing, faster acceleration but sacrificing of top speed, unless cruising at sixty miles per hour at 4000 revs is your thing.
if you live in cold areas, get studded winter tyres for your rwd car. get good ones and you can get further than an awd without studs
This is common knowledge !!!! Setting up a car is all about the whole package not just the bolt ons. Suspension geometry is uber important
A rule of thumb I've heard when racing RC cars (the high-end hobby-grade ones, for anyone who's unfamiliar) is that 1oz of rotating mass is equivalent to 2oz of static mass. Is that a good assumption for full-size cars as well?
Yeah I agree tires are so overlooked. I have an 86 f150 that had really sketchy tires, the brand was "star fire" At good old Canadian tire they had a really good sale on some tires so I bought em. What a difference, the damn thing actually kinda handles now lol
its the bushings that made all the difference in the world for you, im sure theyre alot stiffer possibly even a harder poly like alot are, the factory parts are ok but the tubes nice because its lights and adjustable, but the factory ones are plenty strong. the only time iv seen those have problems is when a guy brought a camaro in that he slid into a huge curb doing donuts in a parking lot ..it was surprising how little damage was actually done to the car tho.
Gears and getting the power down with traction bars are a great place to start. Then intake and exhaust and have it comp tuned.
The only thing I can't keep myself from mentioning... regarding gear ratios, the higher the "number" compared to 1 (3.73:1, 4.11:1, 4.56:1, etc.), the lower the gear RATIO.
The effects you describe are associated with a LOWER gear ratio, not higher. If the gear ratio reduces the angular velocity (rpm) of input to output, then the torque is increased from input to output.
I.e. 3.73:1 the input (pinion/driveshaft) has to rotate 3.73 times for the output to rotate once. Angular velocity is divided by 3.73, torque multiplied by 3.73
If you reduce that to say 4.56:1, the torque output will be multiplied by 4.56 instead of 3.73 meaning better acceleration. The angular velocity is divided 4.56 meaning reduced top speed and fuel mileage since the engine will be spinning faster at cruising speeds.
5:16
Hey, that image looks like the silver E60 M5 just happily robbed the place that the E92 M3 was on and left the M3 surprised
Before you significantly increase power I always recommend making sure you can stop. I assume a 2017 SS camaro has pretty damn good brakes, but I'm sure there are some upgraded pad materials available.
Just a few thoughts.
You are referring to the center support bearing elimination.
Universal joints on either end of the one piece driveshaft.
Yes, you do lose one
u-joint in the process.
And yes,
A lower gear ratio will decrease your off the line times.
Higher number ratios means lower gear ratios !
Otherwise,
all good tips !
hey wow this is much better info than other channels do! good video man!
I always use summer tires. I'm in a tropical country, I never have to worry about winter
If you want traction for a 1/4 or 1/8 mile run. Drag radials. Go buy a cheap set of steal wheels and have a set of slicks mounted to them.
Best mod by far is to remove weight and it’s free. If you’re really serious about going fast remove everything but the steering wheel and seat.
The thing most people forget about when thinking about mods to make the car faster is how the car is going to stop afterwards. Adding power without adding breaking ability and increasing control just make you look like an idiot, if not dead.
You forgot another weight saving, rotational mass freeing mod. Going with lightweight, forged aluminum wheels. You reduce 6-8 lbs of rotational mass at all four corners and you'll pick up time through the quarter and they're stronger too!
I own a Genesis 3.8, which has 112hp less than your Camaro, but I feel these will prove to be great mods. I'm all for improved numbers.
Awesome video! I wish you would have showed a side by side comparison of the control arms. You don't have to remind us about what other channels have talked about in the past. We're here for your commentary and facts. I personally enjoy the videos of you cruising and showing clip art instead of the full clip art videos. Scenery is awesome lol. Keep up the great work, I look forward to future vids from you and your brother!
Higher numerical gears are called lower. 4:11 gears are lower than 3:73 gears. This is because your output speed is lower than your input speed.
You have the whole gear thing backwards. Lower gears are more performance oriented. Like a 4.10:1 ratio is considered a lower gear than a 3.27:1. Lower gears allow for better performance but lower mileage and raise your RPMs at a given speed vs the higher gears.