Boat Oil Change: How To Change the Oil on a Marine Diesel Engine | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ [Boat Work]
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- 🔔 SUBSCRIBE➜ bit.ly/SBCZcams⛵ Informative sailing videos! This is a step-by-step guide on how to change the oil on an inboard engine. You'll see the simple tools required and we cover all the steps in detail. [Timestamps and links to buy pump below!]
If you've never changed the oil on a boat before, this is the video for you!
It may be useful to more experienced people too, due the choice of oil extractor we use. We use a very small, cheap and simple oil extraction hand pump, which costs less than $20 and is small enough to be stowed away on a boat of any size.
🛒Buy oil extractor pump here:
amzn.to/35AUud8 (USA)
amzn.to/2NbcYdM (UK)
amzn.to/2NbQdXb (Canada)
amzn.to/30638z4 (Australia)
Timings for your convenience:
00:05 Introduction
00:37 Tools and equipment required (Including choosing an oil extraction pump)
01:55 Oil change step 1 (run engine to heat oil)
02:40 Pumping out the old oil
05:32 Replacing the oil filter
07:39 Filling the oil and checking the level
08:52 Final oil level check after running engine
09:18 Final thoughts on changing the oil on a marine diesel engine and conclusion
⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵ brings you the sailing shenanigans of Chris (British), Rossella (Italian), and baby Emma (Britalian) as we sail our 1992 Bavaria 350. We make sailing vlogs of our cruising adventures and share any tips and tricks we can along the way. After all, sailors are one big family!
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Fair winds! 👍
Chris, Rossella and Emma
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'Sailing Britaly' is a Helvellyn Ltd brand. Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of Helvellyn Ltd, we cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Helvellyn Ltd assumes no liability for property damage, injury or death incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Helvellyn Ltd. recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, open flames, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Helvellyn Ltd, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Helvellyn Ltd. Disclosure: any links in this description may be affiliate links. If you decide to buy some items from them, Helvellyn Ltd may receive a small percentage compensation for having suggested the suppliers to you. (This costs you nothing) Helvellyn Ltd only recommends suppliers and products which we believe in, so there is never any conflict of interest.
#boat #oilchange #diy
![Boat DIESEL ENGINE Hacks & Oil Change [Capable Cruising]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Sf02o0VyTwA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Boat DIESEL ENGINE Hacks & Oil Change [Capable Cruising]](/img/tr.png)
Great video, liked 👍
Cheers Paul! 👍
Instablaster...
Another great video! One tip: When writing the date on the filter, write the engine hours on as well. If you are doing more motoring than usual, you'll want to know this information to plan when to perform your next oil change. Keep the great videos coming, I love seeing how others do things, as I almost always pick up ideas or tips to use myself!
Good tip Bob, thanks! We love to help people and this is a big part of our channel. We have lots of other subjects to cover in other videos (how to afford to go cruising is an important one!) but time is definitely the biggest limiting factor at the moment. We'll get there eventually though! Fair winds, Chris 👍
Hi Chris, I accidentally discovered your channel today and I really like your approach to maintenance work. I am an elderly sailor and I review my experiences 50 years ago, this makes me happy and I am sure that I still have something to learn. Congratulations on your choice of life and a greeting to your whole family
Thank you Mauro, welcome aboard! Chris, Rossella & Emma :-)
Regular oil changes are the simplest and best way to prolong the life of your engine. Excellent video, thank you :)
Thank you Jeffrey, it's always a pleasure to read your comments. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Thanks Chris, for simple but effective maintenance. Watching you pump out the dregs of oil brought memories of your previous attack on the wasps’ nest in your roof space with soap solution, it still makes me laugh. Your frantic pumping became ever more urgent as the wasps crawled up your neck and into your hair. Then you said with ‘absolute’ belief that the soap solution pacifies the wasps and they don’t sting - that did it for me. I just had to subscribe to discover just how many more‘mad’ schemes this man was capable of. Well done regards from EF. If anyone hasn’t seen it, I recommend they do, but ‘don’t try it at home.
Hi Evano, I'm always up for a new challenge so when our neighbour starting panicking and talking about calling a (very expensive) company out to come and get rid of the wasp's nest in the roof space I thought "I'll have a go at that!". Soap and water does work and I'm still amazed I got rid of a couple of thousand wasps without getting stung once... I have to admit my heart rate was higher than normal throughout the process 😉 Cheers and fair winds, Chris 👍
British+ Italian= Britalian = Sailing Britaly!!!! Makes perfect sense now. Great vid too.
Britaly is a little floating island which is 50% British and 50% Italian. Thank you for watching and commenting. Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 👍
I just purchased a 31' Hunter and your video will help me change the oil. Thank you.
Hi Chris, Nice video on the oilchange. Just a few reminders / extra tips.
1) After removing the oilfilter again pomp out the old oil through the dipstick hole. An oilfilter usually has an valve inside to keep oil in, thus having faster oilcirculation at start up.
2) water bottels are not to be used to store old engineoil for a longer period as the plastic can/will desolve.
3) use a oil filter socket (size depending on oil filter fitter) or universal 3-arm universal oilfilter wrench to remove the filter to prevent possible damage to the centre threat coming out if the engine.
4) keep an aerosol spray can of brake cleaner near by to clean of any oil spillage. Especially as your filter is in between the fan belt.
5) check for the correct oil viscosity recommended by the manufacturer of your specific engine AND the quality needed ( in the owners manual). For Marine Engines quality is usually defined by the NMMA (National Marine Manufactures Association. They usually start with FC-W followed by a number. This ensures that the oil has additives specificly needed in the Marine environment.
Great video. So keep up the regular maintenace. Whishing you (all three) fair winds and save sailing from Rotterdam, The Netherlands.
Hi Robin, thanks for watching and commenting. Chatham Marina has a waste oil collection facility, so the oil was disposed of (for recycling) within 30 minutes of the end of the job. The 'Screwdriver Trick' when used judiciously like I did in the video, (On the outermost part of the filter and without going too deep) won't damage any threads. Solvent cleaner is a good thing to have at hand during the job. Absolutely agree about using the correct kind of oil as per the manufacturer's specifications. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Great to read about the recycling opportuneaty in your Marina, unfortunaly that’s mot always the case! The Screwdriver trick was great and well executed (I used it many times my self). Your carefull execution and extra explanation is very helpfull to many potential DIY’ers. I realy enjoy your videos on boat jobs.
Very clear. Thank you.
My pleasure Ralph. 👍
very usefull thanks Phil
Many thanks for this video !
Our pleasure! 🙏
There are many videos of how to change oil to your boat's engine... but this one is awesome. Thanks for the quality videos you upload family 🙏🏻
Thank you Alberto! 👍
Hi Guys, another great video. Just to let you know for some reason CZcams dropped you from our subscribed channels so we have just watched your last 4 vids. We have had the same on our little channel and had reports of similar with other channels. Quick point that may be of use. After filter replacement, while the engine is still warm put half a ltr of clean oil in the filler. Let it drain down for a few mins then pump out again. The dirty oil in the filter is released into the sump when the seal is broken. This ensures that this and the oilways have clean oil and the sump too. If you change to the right grade of fully synthetic and put a powerful magnet on the filter you can triple the time between oil/filter changes. hope this is of use to you and your subscribers. Ant & Cid xx
Very helpful and clear instructions. Thanks
Great tutorial in advance of my first oil change on our sailboat. Thanks!
My pleasure Robert 🙏
It was very informative and shown how to apply
An excellent video for the mechanically challenged like me! Very clear, concise and helpful. Thank you!
You're very welcome Andrew 👍
Hi, great video. One extra suggestion. After running the engine to warm the oil, wait about 10 minutes to allow it all to drain back into the sump. I guess you did this, as you show the slight temperature drop on your thermometer. This was also a great tip. I have one of these IR thermometers, but have never thought of using it to check the oil temp when changing. I borrowed one of the “big and complicated” vacuum pumps from a friend for my last oil change. Wouldn’t recommend it, cleaner, but took longer!
Hi Bill, yes some time is needed to let the oil drain back down in to the sump, I should have mentioned this in the video. The big pumps are valid, it's just that we already have too much stuff to stow away and I can't justify a fairly large amount of stowage space for something I only have to use once per year, when a tiny little pump can do the same job. Cheers, Chris 👍
yeah i found it very useful. thanks. have just bought a little boat with a perkins 100 engine and need to change the oil.
Cheers David, congratulations on your purchase and fair winds! Chris 👍
Great video! Keep It simple Is a great way to show how things Need ti be done! Thankyou! Ciao
Many thanks for that Chris, I have same the engine and now I know how to change the oil :)
My pleasure Rich :-) Fair winds! Chris 👍
Sailing Britaly any chance of a fuel filters how to? 😃
Yes that's something I can do in a future video... In the shorter term you'll see some of that in our upcoming engine overhaul vlogs. Cheers, Chris
Sailing Britaly changed oil today, followed your steps, piece of cake. 😃
On Volvo Penta MD2030B engine we have oil drain pipe (Suction pipe). So, we should use that instead of oil dipstick tube. Check you engine Lubricating System diagram.
Watching you do this it came to mind to be sure you’re looking at the quantity of oil you remove. A conversion chart might be helpful.
Excellent video, clear explanation and a common sense approach, a winning combination!!
Thank you Ross 👍 Fair winds! Chris
Great stuff clear and straight forward, Thank you. All the best .
Our pleasure Julian, subscribe for more helpful videos. 😊⛵️🌅
This was so helpful! Doing my first oil change on (what looks like) the same engine, Volvo Penta 2002. Thanks for your help!
You're very welcome Vanessa. Ours is a Volvo Penta 2003, which is the same engine as yours apart from we have one more cylinder. Let us know how you get on and if you haven't done it yet, heating the oil before starting [by running the engine for 10 minutes or so] is key to making it easy to pump out (The oil is a lot more viscous when it's
cold) Chris 🙂
Thank you so much for posting this really helpful video. Makes it so much easier for ones like me, who hasn't done it before. Your help it much appreciated 🤗. Warm greetings from Copenhagen. Stig
You're very welcome Stig! 😊 If you're going to use one of these little pumps then make sure the oil is nice and hot before you start - this makes it less viscous (thinner) and will help you pump it our a lot more easily. Happy oil changing! Chris 👍
Hey mates! Hope all is well : ) we had a weird weather pattern come through while I was out sailing. A lovely 15-20 N quickly turned bad within 5 minutes it was pegging my gauge at 50 SE. Boy oh boy what a ride. I'll write more this evening, have to go for now.
Hi Z! Wow, that sounds like a crazy ride! We have been caught out in thunderstorms on Lake Garda and we know how quick and violent they can be. We saw a boat with a roller furling genoa stuck out getting blown towards the rocks in a thunderstorm and it was not a pretty sight. Smooth seas (or waters) never made skilled sailors though... Fair winds and thank you for your support on Patreon, we really appreciate it. Very best regards, Chris, Rossella & Emma 👍
Nicely done , polishing the fuel is a similar process amazing how much water can find its way into a fuel tank
Cheers Sean 🍀 Fair winds, Chris 👍
thank so Britalie !!
👍
Perfect. Now i´ll try it myself ;-) It was helpfull.
I´ve heard that there could be some rest of metal down i bottom of the engine!
True?
If, how can i catch this?
VERY INTERESTING NEVER KNEW THIS!
👍
Thanks, Chris. It's good to see videos starring this venerable old lump. I have changed the engine on mine several times, but your video has useful tips for improvement. I am curious about one thing: Have you ever drained the oil from a VP2003 (or any other marine diesel, for that matter) through the sump drain? And if so, was it worth the blood, sweat, mess and tears that it would have taken? I have never done this, but have always wondered.
Hi Martin, thank you for joining our 🌟Patreon Crew!🌟 Unless I'm mistaken I don't even think there is a drain plug per se on the 2003. There is an expansion plug at the bottom of the sump but this wouldn't be a particularly user-friendly way to change the oil, so I think the suction method is the only practical way to go. Some marine diesel engines have a dedicated tube which runs down to the bottom of the sump and with these you don't need to insert a long tube down the e dipstick holder, you just need suction on the pre-installed tube. Have a great Sunday! Chris :-)
@@SailingBritaly even some car manufacturers, are not putting drain plugs in their engines, as all their dealers suck the old oil out with a vacuum
Britalicly nice as always
👍
an even easier way to undo the filteris to use rubber gloves to grip it a simple thing but works a treat to undo a filte ralso use both hands around the filter
great video, thanks man!
My pleasure! Cheers, Chris 👍
Nice video, very clear.
Thank you very much Mick. Cheers, Chris 👍
Thanks for the demo but what about the gearbox oil? is that needed to change less?
What oil is recommended for Volvo Penta MD2030B 1996 year?
Bella idea complimenti!
Grazie! 😊👍
Brilliant matey! Happy engines. I like that. Thank you
Cheers James! Fair winds, Chris 👍
Sailing Britaly I take it you and the family are planned no to head south again old chap? Are you going this year or will you still be working the boat up?
Who could ever put a dislike on this, I wonder!!! Who are those 14 beings… 😄
What make and type of engine do you have? What kind of oil (specifications) did you use. I read Diesel Engine oil on the can, but that was all I could see. Just being curious, because I sell engine oil’s
Very well explained!! Is that a 1.5 bmc lump? Thanks for video
Thank you, our engine is a naturally aspirated, raw water cooled, Volvo Penta 2003. Cheers, Chris
Weren't the blooming great words "VOLVO PENTA" written on the engine big enough for you?
Potentially a silly question, but why do you extract the oil out of the the dipstick entrance, rather than the oil fill entrance?
There’s no such thing as a silly question Ted (Apart from things like “Why is abbreviation such a long word?” and “If a schizophrenic threatens to commit suicide, is it treated as a hostage situation?”…).
The dipstick entrance gives a clear route down to the bottom of the sump. The oil fill entrance leads to the top of the engine, with the rockers/valves/pistons etc. blocking the route to the sump.
Chris 👍
Does anyone have any tips on how to extract the oil if the engine is cold (and can't be run)? I've managed to get about 1 L out of mine. Trying to warm up the engine compartment with a heater now, but doubt I'll get the oil to anywhere near running temperature.
Hi Alie and Ben, as you've already seen you'll really struggle getting cold oil out. Try putting an electric heater pointing straight at the sump, not very far away from it 12" perhaps). The heat will enter the oil and circulate within it via convection so with some patience this should work. Good luck and if you ever want a hand fixing anything which needs more dedicated advice in the future bear in mind you can always give us a shout here to get on-to-one videocall assistance: sailingbritaly.com/videocalls Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
how often do you recommend to change the oil/filter?
You didn't prime the oil filter by either filling it with oil or turning the engine over (without starting it). Any reason why not? I've just changed my oil and filter and didn't prime and am now reading that I should have!
Is it worth it or recommended to change the gearbox oil? I have not found any info on this.
I know that lot of you guys think that oil is oil and an oil filter is an oil filter, so you can choose the cheapest one. I don't think so. I have been working in a boat shop, making service to boat engines and especially to Volvo Penta (VP).
One VP engine I looked into was totally rusted (!) inside due to cheap oil, after just one season. The man used the cheapest oil he could find. The engine had to be scrapped. Different oils contain different additives and it should contain cleaning additives and anti-rust additives. VP Original Oil contains that, but it's not the cheapest one.
It's the same with oil filter, they look the same on the outside but how effective are they and how small particle can the filter stop, without getting clogged? Cheap filter get clogged, then a valve inside opens, and the filter lets the oil through without filtering. So buying the cheapest is in the short term some money to save, but in the long term it's the survival of the engine some decades longer it's all about. Especially with an old engine like the VP 2003, where you no longer can find any new spare parts like pistons and crankshafts.
Hi Patrick, I agree and disagree with you. I used to work as a mechanical technician on aircraft, where the incorrect choice of oil could result in people losing their lives. You are absolutely right that all oils are not equal and just because an oil is a "15W40" does not make it the correct oil to use for a certain application where the manufacturer requires a certain kind of 15W40 oil (which will have a variety of additives depending on the operating conditions of the engine). What I disagree with you on is that you need to buy "Volvo Penta Oil" to use in your engine...
Volvo Penta do not have a refinery and oil manufacturing plant where they make their own oil, they buy commercially available oil which matches their specification and then put it in their own container with a Volvo Penta sticker and then mark up the price about 300%. You cannot put any old oil in your engine, but you can put a non 'Volvo Penta oil' in if it matches the required specification.
The same is true with oil filters: you can't put any old rubbish on there, but just because the filter you choose doesn't have Volvo Penta written on it does not necessarily mean it is an inferior product. In some cases it may be made to the same spec, in the same factory, with a different paint finish to differentiate it so that Volvo Penta can justify increasing the price to the consumer.
This is my personal opinion, others may disagree with me. :-)
Fair winds,
Chris
@@SailingBritaly Indeed, most Volvo oil filters are made by Mann.
If they say change your oil every 3000 miles in a car, how often should you change the oil on a marine diesel?
As to tips: is there any trick to using an anchor windlass? Never needed one before, now I'm buying a boat that has a manual anchor windlass....it's a heavier boat than I've ever had before. Don't want to waste time in anchoring, not knowing what I'm about.
thanks chris. yes i would like to know more about anchor windless's. especially dual electric/manuals.
And save lots of money buying your oil filter from motor factors rather than marine chandlers. West Marine, for instance wanted to charge me $25 for a filter I bought from AutoParts for $4.50
Absolutely, often there is a 'Marine Markup' which can be avoided with a small amount of research...
Sailing Britaly True BUT check out all the videos now on the differences in filters when you take them apart! It does seem that they make special Synthetic oil filters that have silicone not rubber gaskets and valves and extra reinforcing in the filter medium. But I thing as long as you change it regular it probably does not matter ..... but if you may not be able to change the filter or can’t get one in faraway places a good one even if you only change the oil will give you piece of mind.
Cheers Warren
Always understood that diesel engine oil is best found jet black. Any other shade or color indicates a problem.
Calder I believe.
It is normal for diesel engine oil to be black, and after an oil change it will soon go black again (Carbon from the combustion). There are different kinds of black oil though, there is the nice new fresh black oil, which has the correct viscosity, and which will do a superb job of keeping the engine internals lubricated and cool. Then there is the very black, tarry kind of oil, which can be found in a diesel engine which hasn't had an oil change in years. This is much thicker than it should be and does not flow through the oilways in the correct way. As a result the engine doesn't receive the correct lubrication and wear will increase rapidly, reducing the life of the engine. Fair winds, Chris 👍
And creamy oil that indicates water getting into the oil. Not good!
You should REPLACE the SAME amount of OIL removed...assuming FULL when change begins.
Not the CAPACITY of the ENGINE...since you will have left some oil in the sump.
Replacing with CAPACITY will OVERFILL the engine.
The capacity gives you a guide, the dipstick tells you the correct level. It’s quite simple really.
4:25...or diapers to absorb the oil drips!
Diapers are very absorbent and will soak up oil, as well as water. :-) Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 👍
I disagree with one of the recommendations made here.... As my old Hydraulics Professor once said, "A dirty filter filters BEST." For the cleanest oil in your engine, I would follow the manufacturers recommendation on when to change the oil filter. For the Yanmar 3G, this is every-other oil change.
Not difficult? Not all of us are sporting guns like you big man... :-)
😉
Nemo to self. Do not drop full bottle. Lol
Proper disposal of old oil is very important, recycle
Absolutely agree Julio. The Marina we were staying in had a waste oil collection point (for recycling), so this was very easy for us to do. Fair winds, Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly Or filter it a few times (large coffee type filter) and then stick it in the fuel tank. As long as you have good fuel filters it will be fine.