6.0 Powerstroke Head Gasket install w/cab on
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- I'm very excited to have done this video for you guys that want to learn and want to do head gaskets on any 6.0 Powerstroke truck. most videos show you how to do head gaskets with cab lifted. this will show you how to do it with with cab on. any questions please comment. like and subscribe.
I did make a video for head removal if you need help removing heads with cab on please check out
• 6.0 Powerstroke head r...
thanks
its a long video so sit tight and enjoy.
6.0doctor
Josh@fully-lit.com
Did my gaskets about a year and a half ago, closely following your videos. Never took a second to say thanks, so Thanks! They were incredibly helpful and saved me a lot of time. I know it takes time, but guys out here like me really appreciate your videos.
instablaster
I second that! Thank you!💪👌
I am doing head gaskets on a 2004 60 the easiest way I found it just unbolt the right side engine support and lift the engine up And you can get to all the bolts
Great info and thank you. My 19yo Son just bought an 06. Needless to say, I am on a crash course to learn how to work on these. He was quoted $15K to pull the cab and do the heads and head gaskets along with ARP studs. Needless to say, after seeing this we are going to trade a weeks worth of work to save paying $13K of labor to someone else.
good idea !!!
I know this video has been around a while but I have learned a couple of things to make your life a little easier- I do have a lift but dont like pulling the cab either - so I put the lift only under the front frame rails so I can raise and lower the front of the truck- role it in and pull the front tires - that way you can let it down to a comfortable work height. Then pull the inner mud shield for the passenger side - this gives access to all the crap that you have to reach from under the air box ... and I zip tie that rear stud on the drivers side before it goes in... nice video
I’m glad I’m not the only one who does this. I used to hate the look I got when I told people I’ve never pulled a cab.
FULLY LIT, THANKS. Great video. I followed you step for step an got my 06 6.0 bulletproof it had 230,000 miles stock before the EGR cooler start leaking. I spent $2200 on everything,
ARP STUDS
OEM HEADGASKET
EGR DELETE
UPGRADED OIL COOLER
4" TURBO BACK
BLUE SPRING
WATER PUMP
I had fun doing it, Thanks again!!
Where did you get your ARP studs and your OEM head gaskets
good stuff man, sure that ron is smiling down on you...
And srmastertech!
@@jamest6391 He's still with us, right?
He passed as well
Subscriber am I .. over a Year ago .. Totally appreciated Sharing of Your Knowledge ... Watched all of your Videos ..Most Certain anyone who watches your CZcams Videos will gain experience / knowledge ... PLEASE CONTINUE you CZcams Videos .. Respectfully from COLFAX NC .. DieselTechRon RIP
Agreed with NOT removing the cab! I can't understand why all of these other people have been removing the cabs! Great video!
a blown head gasket is a major job, especially on new foreign cars, that are loaded with so many complicated features, that they will not last for decades, like the cars that transitioned from carburetors to fuel injection in the late 90's to 2000's which are simple and reliable and will last decades, after 2010 to about 2015 they started complicating cars with complex features that will doom the car to unreliability and the scrap heap before a couple of decades of use, but the early 90's to 2000's cars are simple, reliable and will and do last, you still see heaps of hyundia getz on the road here in australia, i have one, cheap to run, cheap to fix, not much to go wrong besides a fuel pump which will eventually fail as they all have a use by date, just like a turbo only has so many hours of life expectancy, an electronic fuel pump will eventually die, and that's all that has gone out on my getz, i plan to change the alternator soon so i dont get a rude surprise one day, if i change it i will be right for 20 years at least.
modern cars will never last 2 decades without spending serious money keeping them repaired, unlike my hyundai gets that has only needed a new fuel pump besides the usual brakes, plugs and timing belt air filter and stuff, new cars are built so flimsy and complicated that they will be piles of trash after 20 years and you wont see many on the road, unlike hyundia getz that are getting into the double decades of age, you still see plenty driving around because they are simple, cheap to run, cheap to fix and there is not much to go wrong with them, besides consumables like plugs, filters, fuel pump eventually, besides that they dont skip a beat.
only a fool or a man with a lot of money and no brains, buys a modern BMW, they are complicated, delicate, poorly built, unreliable pieces of trash that will always cost a fortune to fix when they certainly will breakdown or develop problems, parts cost a fortune, repair shops for them charge triple the average, if you want to waste money on german, get a mercedes, which are only slightly better, but their service centers will rob you, as they wont give anyone else but there service centers the error codes, so if you see your mechanic and his automotive scanner reads an error code, he wont know what it means so cant work on the car, mercedes refuses to reveal the car computer scanner codes, that indicate whats wrong with the car, so if the mechanic cannot know what error codes indicate he cannoit repair a mercedes, thats how they stiff you, the mercedes dealer or repair center will charge you 5 or more times the average for repairs, and 4 times the price for parts, even a regular oil change is $1000, for $30 of engine oil, and the newest cars are computer locked to only use proprietary automotive scanners, another repair shops scanners will give system errors and wont be able to talk to the car computer at all.
along with car makers engineering there cars to last only as long as he warranty, like using plastic parts, like where the radiator hose hooks up to the engine, it plugs into a plastic housing that holds the thermostat, like in mini's, these are common failure points, but the point is car makers use these plastic parts because they will last the warranty, not a lifetime, they are all incorporating many cheap plastic parts only rated to last a little past the warranty. the thermostat housing that bolted to the engine was a part that would last a lifetime, it was metal, now car makers are all engineering cars with parts that are rated to last a little past the end of the manufacturers factory warranty and no more, as it is cheaper to buy a plastic thermostat housing that will certainly fail with the constant heat and cool down cycles, the plastic will disintegrate eventually, so a part that almost never failed, will need constant replacing every 5 to 7 years or earlier, as they have been know to fail while still under warranty.
the point is car makers all copy each other, if one maker starts engineering there cars to only last a little past the factory warranty, they all start using plastic parts and engineering until warranty, they all copy each other, one comes out with a start engine switch, within 2 years they all follow suit and abandon keys for fobs and start engine switch's, who knows who first came out with it, but if mercedes comes out with something, they will be copied, imagine a decade later these cars have problems starting in the cold and the start cycle is too short to start them ???
not to mention the extremely complicated electronics, like the seat switch that failed on a car, so the car thought nobody was sitting in the drivers seat, so it maintained the electronic park brake on, so the owner could not drive the car as the brakes were locked on, the only way to release them is to sit in the drivers seat on a switch that tells the computer the driver is seated, but if the switch fails, there is no way to tell the cars computer your in the drivers seat, so the safety feature will keep the electronic park brake jammed on, preventing driving the car,
my girlfriends car has a start switch, there is no way to sit in the car with the radio on, like with a key there's a accessory position where basic function, radio, lighter and so on work, in this car you either start the car, or have 2 minutes of radio time before it switches off, there is no switch, setting or button to be able to sit in the car with the radio on and engine off, how stupid.
with all this complicated elctronics, engineered to only last a little after the warranty expires philosophy, plastic parts and poor quality cheap builds these days, modern cars will not be on the road within two decades, they will all be on the scrap heap, when i drive my 2007 hyundai getz around i notice all the other hyundai getz still on the road, and there are plenty of them around because they were built in the sweet spot after carburates, simple fuel injected cars of the late 90's to early 2000's, these cars are simple fuel injected cars that are simple and will last, you still see many of them on the road, you will not see a 2020's car in 2040's, they will all be long gone to the scrap heap, i bet i will still be coasting along in my hyundai getz in 2030 ???
You just helped me out with the only thing I had to figure out. Thank you for the first thing. Never thought about removing the driver side motor mount
out standing video thanks fixing to do a 2004.5 head gaskets. they have been leaking progressively worse for the last 2years I can drive it and no leak my wife can drive it and it leaks enough to notice. waiting for cooler weather here in the south east.
My friend you are a soldier !!!!! I thought the only way was to lift the cab !!!
Basic same theory as I use on the "E" series units. Exploring the idea of installing the "E" series oil filter system on the "F" series.
Can the heads be pulled while the motor is in an E series?
My block is super tough... I tried to get it stoned but I got so high I passed out.
Great video. Noticed when you were installing the rear ARP stud on driver side, you had assistant "jacking/lifting". Exactly what were you jacking up. I realize doing a cab on head gasket and stud replacement is a challenge due to those rear studs.
This was a very well informed video. We have to change head gasket since I dropped two little bolts down inside. This will save so time. Thanks again
Great video, I am doing mine now. I know it is much later than the video. I have found that if I pull the inner wheel well plastic I can reach the oil rail, valve cover, and the up pipe.
I mean it's nice if your one of those diy guys without a lift but if you have a lift the time you can save by doing this job with the cab off makes it faster to pull the cab do the work and put it back on vs doing everything with the cab on
KNOWLEDGEABLE Powerstroke customs LLC
Amazing video brilliant tutorial thank you very much helpful information 👍 God bless you and all your family around you
Powerstroke customs LLC
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I think I'm going to do this job in my truck and you video it's going to help me a lot. Thanks in advance great video God bless you.
I gotta say I really appreciate your efforts in making this video. Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. I know it took a lot of effort on your part. You are a pro. -PawPaw
Good video, couple of things I would point out. One, your intske gaskets are on upside down, you can see on the gasket the plastic tab is facing down, supposed to face up to properly locate the gaskets. And two, if I payed to have head gaskets done, and my rocker boxes were as greasy as those when I got the truck back, I would lose my shit. A little cleaning goes a long way. I pull the cabs, but I have 5 lifts at my disposal. Good work on the stoning by the way, not many do it these days. Always keepna good stone in my box, built a lot of engines over the years.
I really liked your illustration it was really helpful because I’m getting ready to do my top end and knowing I don’t have to raise the cab is relief so thank you.
I couldn't for the life of me get one of the y-pipe bolts/nuts off on the drivers side exhaust manifold so chose to just take the manifolds off prior to pulling the heads and left the y-pipe and both exhaust manifolds in the engine compartment, all connected. Having the motor mount off and being able to move raise/lower the engine I was able to easily get the manifolds back on after head install. There is enough flex in those sections of the y-pipe to allow you to spread the exhaust manifolds apart enough to get the heads in without issue. Just thought I would comment with this in case there were others that could not get the collector nuts/bolts off at the y-pipes.
Thanks for the great content. Very helpful. I try to post videos of all my powerstroke work too
Great video. I'm considering ARP studs on my 05 Excursion. I have a lot more confidence in a cab on install. Thank you!
Exactly why I'm watching for my 05 6.0 Ex lol
I'm doing mine right now, starting the install of heads tomorrow, so I'll be tending this a lot, thanks for the video
Virgil Kellogg how long did it take you?
Fantastic video as I just found a coolant leak at my head on the passenger side.
Can you hand crank the motor with only one cylinder head installed including the high pressure oil rail, and stand pipe in place before working on the driver side. Your advice is truly appreciated, thanks.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video the information was priceless for me I’m in the middle of a set of head gaskets right now wouldn’t have been able to do it without your help
Awesome Vid! Thanks for taking the time to make the vid.
Aweskme video, just did my heads, gaskets etc following this video. But I missed one part :-/ i did not see the part about rotating the engine by hand to ensure everything was seated properly. When I went to turn engine over, at first it sounded smooth. I did this for 30 seconds, 10 seconds at a time. By the 3rd crank, I was having a slight loping crank, kinda like cranking over a gas motor with 1 spark plug in one of the cylinders. Anyways, after using the key, the truck fired up great, and runs awesome with good power and no smoke, however I think I'm noticing a really slight vibration from the engine. Could this be air in the fuel lines still, or is that slight lope in the cranking definitely a major issue that I need to pull it back down to investigate?
I know this is a year later but it's really hard to know what you did or didn't do that may have caused your issue. By now, you have either torn it back down yourself or had someone else do it or just lived with it.
But, in the future, you should know that with a diesel it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to turn it over with a ratchet by hand quite a few times to ensure there is nothing interfering with the cylinders or valves and so on. The clearance is just too close to mess around with this.
So, did you ever figure out what happened or did you just decide to live with it?
Also if you have to do it in your driveway, with the cab in you can close the hood when you are not working in it to keep rain and snow out
SNOW Brave man you are but I guess you gotta do what you gotta do good for you.
This was one of the best videos I’ve ever had the pleasure to watch I learned a lot thank you !
What tools would a guy need to complete this process start to finish? And is there any special tools involved? Awesome video.
it's a big relieve knowing that we don't have to lift the cab. most people won't have a lift.
chrisvill54 I'm finishing my in cab head and arp install along with a new piston and rings for #8!
All in all not too bad! Just take your time and do it right!! No rushing or shortcuts!!
Removing accumulator/air box on pass side made everything much easier! Helped with removing and installing y pipe bolts to manifold on pass side too.
outdoorzone wow cool, well hope it all goes good and you get your truck running soon.
@@outdoorzone did you have luck just replacing #8 with the cab on? Looks like I got a burnt piston due to a bad injector and hoping I dont have to do a complete rebuild since the motor was rebuilt 6k miles ago
Josh Lee yes I removed the #8 piston with the cab on...it went pretty smooth and a lot easier than I imagined!
I did rotate the crank and checked the #8 to #6 tdc to make sure the rod was not bent. Everything measured the same..so I only replaced the piston, rings and wrist pin. I did use Lucas oil assembly lube on the new parts. Then I rotated the crank several times to make everything was kosher.
Reinstalled everything. Installed new heads and arp studs, gaskets...etc..
Running like a champ now!!!
Just an FYI! I replaced all the push rods with the new updated ones from a 2008 that are shorter that the 2003-2007 stock ones that were too long. There is ford tsb on it! Don’t worry though, if you order new push rods from ford for a 2003-2007 6.0 you will get the shorter push rods.
If I want to install APR head studs in my truck would it be possible to leave the head in and just take the head bolts out and replace them with studs one at a time that way you don't have to completely remove the head and change gaskets? This is of course if the head gaskets are still good and not blown. Seems like it would be much quicker if you didn't have to remove everything and you could just replace the bolts with studs one at a time without taken out injectors and the entire head If there's not a head gasket issue going on.
I wondered this as well. I’ve seen a guy take the rocker mount off which has a head bolt through it, to replace a broken rocker arm. Ran fine after but don’t know about doing multiple ones
Awesome walk through
I've done my share of gas engine overhauls and they are simple compared to the Diesel. It's unbelievable how complicated it can be. Do all you do with the Cab on looks impossible but you did it. Keep up the great work. Gotta ask, so what happened to the EGR and Oil Cooler portion?
Great video- unfortunately I think I get to do this... and this no is after a shop replaced mine last year already.. FML
Insanely awesome video. Wishing I had listened and installed the fuel lines to the driver side head before installing... but was pressed for time and help. Lesson learned the hard way! Quick question: I've got the heads back on and torqued down. Went through and ran the crankshaft through 4 rotations. All the push rods/rockers/valves appear to be linked right up, but when I was listening to the video I captured, it sounded like the push rods were squeaking a little. Is this because (besides the oil applied to the push rods) the cam is fairly dry? I checked on both sides, and they both do it. I figured since everything is moving the way it should, all items line-up. Was just a little worried about that squeaking.
Eric Woodland the squeak is normal. That could be the Pistons as well. The main thing is you don't want any binding. If it gets to the point you can't turn the crank over by hand and it binds or locks up then you know you have a problem. I just do it to make sure the pushrods and rocker arms are well seated and you know your not gunna throw a rod or break a rocker arm before using the starter to crank. The starter has a lot of torque and can bend or break something. If I can spin that crank before hand and make sure everything is working like it should then when I'm done with the install I know everything will be fine when I use the starter.
In terms of kicking in the starter from the engine bay - What cord did you plug up to the battery to make that happen?
on the passenger side next to the blower there's a single wire with a pinch connector that goes straight to the starter.. disconnect it and put it on the stud battery post.
Does it have a yellow lead wire by chance?
1:06:00 in this video
I've been following all of your videos and thank you for making them. I have a question, I'm installing new KDD o ring heads, high flow oil cooler, ARP studs, new gliw plugs and harnesses, KC turbo, Hpop gasket kit, new gaskets and o rings on everything else. I think I'll also get remand injectors also. Is there anything else that i should do? I'm told 6.4 pushrods but I'm not sure.
Can the head bolts be taken out one by one, and replace with the studs one by one without removing the head or changing out the gaskets? 200,000 miles an no issues with the heads or gaskets.
You "can" do that but really, at 200,000 miles, it would just make sense to spend the extra time and what little money it would cost to do the head gaskets as well.
If you're doing it yourself anyway, you just as well do it. I think the gaskets are only another $150 roughly.
Keep in mind that as you loosen each head bolt, the torque retention on the head gaskets will change a little which could potentially cause an issue with cylinder leakage or coolant issues.
Although I'm sure there are some people that have done this without any issues, if you have the time and money to do it, then just do it. Is it really worth having an issue happen after you've already spent quite a few hours just doing the head stud replacement when you could have just spent another day or two doing the head gaskets?
Can you re-stud the heads without changing the gasket. Doing one bolt at a time. As in re-studding the head bolts one at a time will or won't compromise the head gaskets?
Thanks!
I'm doing mine now you have been very helpful. Question is before I torque the rocket assembly down should I move the crank so no pistons are at tdc? I just dont want to bend a push rod . Thanks boss!
I believe you would want cylinder 1 at top dead center but then again I've never worked on these engines I just think of you are not at tdc on1 then a valve will be open somewhere whether it be intake or exhaust which could bend 1 but then again I by no means a expert
It’s only two nuts to unbolt the right hand engine support from the bottom
Great high Level Video .. thanks for Sharing your knowledge .. most appreciated and valued
6.0Doctor can the motor be pulled this way? If so, I take it I would have to take it down to the short block, remove core support, disconnect from trans obviously... Anything else, if even possible. Great videos, much appreciated when people are willing to put themselves out there to help/educate others. Can you do one/some on diag/fixing repeat cac tubea blowing off?
Fixing to start on mine this evening
Doctor! I followed all your instruction and tips. Thank you very much for making these videos and answering questions. I have a question after doing this job to my 2006 f250 I am blowing lots of white smoke and seems like a cracked injector? I am getting a p0046 code!
Thanks for sharing this, wealth of knowledge
Awesome video man! Could you post a video of how you stone the block?
Thanks for your great videos
Where do you live I need someone like you around
One question. When removing driver motor mount, and then lowering engine, do you loosen up passenger motor mount? It seems the distance the motor travels, up or down might jeopardize the passenger motor mount?
Just wondering if it is possible to finish putting the passenger side high pressure oil rail and stand pipe in, before putting the engine mount on the driver side and working on the driver side. Thanks Josh, I’m working on my truck as well. Just finished putting on the passenger side cylinder head.
Im about to do this on my 06 and when dropping cylinder head, I thought the dowel lines up the heads with no problems🤔🤔🤔
great... well explained.... and on VIDEO! Thanks for sharing.
Makin it look easy
Good video next time Please say which bolts you're tightening down and on a rocker arms bolts You just tightening down to 22 Pounds there is no Adjustment just tightening
what was the customer concern? Thanks for the video.
There is a hose and tube going through the head on drivers side. Hiw di i get that out?? Im stumped. Maybe im over thinking it.
Hey buddy I just did this complete job using your video from removal to install now question is my truck turns over has fuel up to secondary fuel pump and full of oil but still doesn't sound like it getting fire all plugs are in so maybe what could it be by chance awesome video btw thanks sherry
check connections on injector connectors.
Also check the 3 FICM connectors If one is slightly off, it will not send the signal to some of the injectors.
So thank you great job when u want to do mine
Do you remove the transmission core support when you try to remove the drivers side engine mount to allow it to twist up/down?
Great video, and thank you for showing an option other than paying 5k or more if and when I need to replace my head gaskets and head bolts. Noticed you didn't do anything with the EGR or the oil cooler was that already done, or doesn't always need to be done?
Thanks man. Good job
just did this with cab on and your video helped a ton. Buuuuuut, now it starts and hardly has enough power to pull out of the garage. Also is idling rough. Did egr delete, oil cooler update, Ford gaskets, arp studs, and blue spring upgrade. Ant ideas??
Did you run your injectors through a wire bench grinder to clean them? Also what heads are you using ??
FULLY LIT I didn't take them out of the heads. I'm using the factory heads- it's an 07 truck. It ran perfect before disassembly, other than leaking coolant.
Check fuel pressure, check to make sure plugs on the injectors and ficm are all plugged in. Listen to injector clatter. Can you pull any codes?
FULLY LIT checked injector and ficm, tried to start again and it is running worse. It's pulling a cylinder 5 code and of course now the egr. this is starting to seem like bad harness connections maybe?
FULLY LIT also was thinking push rod maybe, but wouldn't it be pretty loud and noticeable when started?
You say it's time and cost saving to leave the cab on but do you charge the customer for taking off the cab and the hours that go along with it that the books call for or do you pass the savings to the customer when you don't take the cab off? Great video thumbs up on it.
Why the hell would he pass the savings on to the customer it’s the same amount of work cheap ass
Josh has a video on the cab off/cab on dilema when following the dealers guidelines. Dealers have instructions for both. If the dealer says they "have to remove the cab", they're lying. It can be done with the cab on. only a little inconvenient getting to rear valve cover / oil rail bolts off and y pipe bolts. Not 4 hrs inconvenient though. Dealer in SoCal wanted $3050 to replace #1 & #6 injectors, with oil and fuel filter service. 14.5 hrs of labor. This had to be a cab off quote... crazy! I'm currently in the middle of doing Driver side head gasket. Thanks Josh.
Any tips on installing the passenger side rear banjo bolt for somebody with a regulated return? Seems impossible without the cab off
Gr8 vid man. Did you have to take out the head studs with the head to get it out? Or will the head just lift off of the studs to remove? About to dig into my truck soon. Thanks
If you’re referring to the factory bolts, yes, they will have to come off before you lift the head.
Great video, just watched the removal vid to learn new tricks and i did, Im about to do another Head (been 5 years ago dont know what i did wrong but i gotta do it again) job on my 04 with studs and was wondering if you think the head removal with ARPs would go as smoothly as yours did with the bolts, looking forward to doing the motor mount trick as removed the AC box and cut the one drivers side back head bolt. thanks again for the vids
Just finished the head job, Head guy said the failure was due to the head being warped due to over heat. guess i have temp sending issues cause it never went over 202 on my Bully Dog PMT. your video helped me A LOT so i didn't have to remove the A/C box again. Thanks Again for a great video.
When doing the head gasket is it a must to have the heads machined or is it up to me
Good video.I'm proud of you. I worked in Dealers for many years and I see a lot of lazy young mechanic. But you are good mechanic.I turn wrenches for 35 years and this my opinion.A lazy mechanic is bad mechanic!,,,,
Hi, I have a question, I have problem the 2 studs drivers side don’t go, if I lifted the engine it’s wort’s
2004 Ford F 350 SuperDuty 6.0 all of a sudden the rpm will not go beyond 2200 regardless of how hard it is pressed.I used the small common obd2 scanner and it reads p0261.What could that code measn and what is the solution to this issue.Thanks and I hope to hear from you and others that knows what this is and what can be done to get it resolved.
Awesome video bro do you have a video from full start to finish I want to do this myself I’ve already deleted it and have done Hpop and new injectors but unfortunately it’s not studded and I’ve noticed she’s spitting some coolant not a lot just a little out of the degas bottle
Totally awesome brother amazing videos. Can you do me a favor and email me your thoughts on what he main causes of diesel and oil mixes are. I'm new to the 6.0 was a gm man most of my life gonna get my first diesel
Brad Martinez diesel and oil mixing together most of the time means that the internal seals in the injectors are bypassing and allowing fuel to get in your oil. (producing oil)
I watched your video a d finished the job. Trying to start the truck and it sounds like there is a struggle in the crank what do you thank the problem is ?????
Can you just pull the vaulv covers and do the studs one at a time or do you half to pull the heads I just wanna make the motor last as long as possible but i don't pull a lot of weight but I have a heavy foot and don't wanna crack the head bolts and all the intake, 4in exhaust is done and egr is deleted and my blow by bypass is done
I'm sorry I didn't hear the part where you said how long this job took you I'm just curious because I'm doing a Duramax head gasket right now and it's right around 40 hours
you said the valves were all cut down to the same length, when you have the heads machined down do you also have you take the same amount off of the valves
so the way I do the math is first I recess the valves down into the head .020-.030... then if the head needs to be machined flat then say that's .008.. so then take the .008 + whatever I had to cut into the valve seat to seat the valve so lets say valve 1-16 need .005 then I add that and take .013 of those valve stems to make up for pushrod difference.
FULLY LIT ok i see. you said they were new valves do you have to put in new valves every time or was this just a particular time they needed replaced. and thanks for the help
you can reuse your old valves but the heads that im building and selling come with all new valve 1mm oversize, springs, retainers, locks, injector cups..
6.0Doctor are the heads your selling O Ringed? Also do you sell 6.7 heads...
Appreciate the video! Thank you! 👍👍
I have a question you know when there are a problem with the head engine and need change
WOW ! Great video !
Great video. Very well done!!
Hey..do u have to set timming or just make sure the pistons aren't all the way up b4 torquing heads?
I am looking at a 6.0 with a blown head gasket. What are some thing in need to watch out for other than changing the gaskets. Also what does this job cost?
Great video
Doctor...I'm near Idaho , how much for heads and studs job? My truck would be good for a video . Runs fantastic, smokes and loses coolant..fuel in oil...no dtc
Excellent jop amigo 🎉🎉🎉🎉
What grit stone are you using? And do you have a video to kinda give us an idea of what to do and not to do? Thx for the video bro!
You don't have a video on installing the rocker arm plastic clips?
6.0 Doctor can I install the glow plugs the same time as the injectors ? Just curious. Thank you
Awesome video. Part I'm stuck on presently is setting the driver side head on. Can't seem to push it back far enough with the sheet metal in the way (hood edge of the engine compartment toward the driver). Don't want to slide it across the gasket. Tried adjusting the chains 3 times so far and still just can't get it stuck in far enough to set it down. Any suggestions? Chain is setup pretty much like you show. Engine is jacked up as far as I can (tried lowered too). I got it out ok but I think that reversing that would damage the gasket (hard to remember how it went).
gephro bowdeen yea that sheet metal can be a pain. Try relocating the chains more forward on the head and have it angled.
@@powerstrokecustomsllc1942 got it finally. Took about 5 approaches and re-boltings and measurings yada yada. I think the main issue is that although I have a 2 ton hoist, it's not designed for a truck this far off the ground, so the boom can only go as low as horizontal. It makes the chain length and positioning critical. I've altered the hoist in a couple of ways in order to do this job - extending the lift and wedging the boom so it would sit between the 1 and 1.5 ton positions. I ended up moving the chains forward as you said and bolting to the 3rd intake manifold bolt hole from the front, and on the exhaust side wrapping the chain around the cyl 4 exhaust port alone. It was way back-heavy so I had to maintain downward force on the front the whole time, but it gave me enough clearance to push it back far enough. A helper to raise/lower was a must. Appreciate the help!
How long does it usually take you to do heads if you have another set ready to go. Like old heads off new heads on ready to go and fired up
After doing this my truck is a crank no start for a few days already can't figure it out
Did you get this issue fixed?
I have a 06 f 350 I'm having a problem with the radiator cap blowing off or it loses pressure
Great Video. Thanks for sharing. What brand of mini impact wrench are you using? Milwaukee?