How to Plant a Bare-Root Fruit Tree | Zero Fertility Method
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- čas přidán 28. 02. 2023
- Yes - a video about fruit trees! After planting an orchard of over 60 fruit trees the other weekend at our experimental growing site, there were a few trees left and so I thought I would create a video to demonstrate the most simple way of planting out a bare-root fruit tree, why you should plant in a square hole, and why I don't add compost or any other fertility when planting a fruit tree in the ground.
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#planting #gardeningtips #fruittrees - Jak na to + styl
Earth needs more teachers like you. I love your videos!
Thank you so much!
Man, that soil looks absurdly healthy!
Loved the opening drone shots with the dramatic fog going across! We're also making more of an effort to plant lots of trees this year -G,x
It was a very dramatic planting day!!
Huw, it's great to see how carefully and skillfully you put this young fruit tree in it. May God bless you, your loved ones and your garden. Thank you for sharing your skills and gratitude to your father.
Thank you so much! :)
This video makes me so happy! No unnecessary, unproven amendments to make what should be a cheap process very expensive. We've planted 20+ fruit trees over the past two years in our yard using a similar method (no amendments at all) based on Dave Wilson Nursery's backyard orchard guides. Overall, it has been very successful.
The one exception has been citrus which have struggled for nutrients in our poor native clay soil.
Thanks for sharing your methods!
🏴Happy St David!🏴
I was given 3 pear trees a few weeks backs, so this is great timing. Your instructions are just what I needed. Thanks Huw! Cxx
Square holes are a myth. In a friable soil like that the roots will have no trouble radiating out. In a really compacted clay a square hole will just make for roots going around in a square, rather than a circle. Relieving compaction broadly, or sequentially outwards from the trunk might be necessary. Stakes that close and large can rub and be very difficult to remove. We often use two stakes 50 x 50 mm, half a metre away on opposite sides of the trunk: they won't rub and are useful for attaching string to when branch training. Bare rooted maidens with good roots often need no staking. Totally agree with backfilling with soil only - we don't give fruit trees enough credit for their ability to make a home in the original ground! Grass competition we see as the worst for young trees on all rootstocks.
This
First time ever heard to cut/dig a square planting hole. However, your reasons make super sense to me. This could be why my trees never did very well. Thank you for this new information that will give future trees a better chance for life.
Thank you Huw for another great how to video! Always very helpful. Blessings on your day Kiddo from Holland Ohio USA 🥰🌻🐛💕
Exactly what I wanted to know about today. Thank you!
The soil looks so good and healthy ☘️ thanks for the tutorial
My pleasure Teresa!
Thank you for your hard work Mr. Richards.
You are very welcome :)
This is precisely what I need👏👏👏🍎
Huw you are Always giving us Vital Information that helps us in our gardening Endeavors
I'm glad you find it useful ☺️🌱
Thanks for tutorial
Huw, I’m just getting started with all of this (gardening/permaculture/farming), and am enjoying your videos-peaceful and informative. Tip I learned from another video: while digging the hole, place the soil on a piece of cardboard to prevent a lot of soil being lost into the grass, maximizing what gets put back in the hole. Cheers from the USA, and God bless you.
Wow I like that tip
Thanks, Huw. Doing the same here in the school garden. Children are really chuffed.
That’s great - wish all schools made the time and had the right people to support tree planting on their sites (many schemes can give them to schools and public bits of land for free!! Woodland trust and I Dig Trees). Great video really really useful
Good luck with the new orchard Huw, my orchard is now about 15 years old and in a good year like last year I have barrow loads of fruit from 12 trees, 60 trees your going to have to eat more than an apple a day 😆👍
Ahh Amazing! Can't wait to eat multiple apples a day!!
I just learned the term "post knocker" while watching your video. I have one, but up until now, I called it a picket pounder. From this day forward, it shall be called a post knocker.
You can also soak the bare roots in a bucket of water before you plant it. Arborists recommend soaking them for at least 20 minutes.
You absolutely can! However my opinion is when a tree has been healed in it does have a decent covering of soil around the roots when I remove it, which acts as a protective covering, if you soak that then you remove that soil covering. Arguably once a tree is in the ground it doesn't matter, but I rather soak the soil around the trees once it is planted than soak the root ball beforehand. I have no idea if this is correct, but what feels intuitive to me😂
@@HuwRichards True, but most people aren't fortunate enough to be able to plant them immediately after they've been dug up. When ordering them through the mail, they've already been out of the ground about 2-5 days. They may have just been shipped with the roots kept damp in a plastic bag with some wet paper towels wrapped around them.
@@HuwRichards what does "being healed" mean? How do we "heal" bare roots?
@@slomo1716 … Heeling in prevents the plants from breaking dormancy early and keeps the roots moist until you can get them planted. Follow these steps for heeling in a plant: Remove all packaging and soak the roots in water for up to an hour. In a shaded location, dig a V-shaped trench just large enough to accommodate the roots.
@@HuwRichards Best practice is to 1st fill the empty hole with water, let it percolate into the surrounding soil, and then plant the tree in the hole, covering roots with the dry soil and then finally soaking everything around the tree thoroughly..
Loved it
Great advice here, Huw!
I actually just planted some grape vines. Not exactly trees, but they're meant to stay there for quite a while, so I'm treating them as such. I didn't dig quite a square hole, but a pyramid one. Unusual, I know, but hopefully it will work the same. The hole at the soil level wasn't that wide (and was actually circular), but deeper down I dug four sides to loosen up the soil a little bit and to prevent roots from spiraling.
Also, I dug quite deep holes. We just get so much and such strong winds that loosening up the soil to a bit of a deeper level felt right. Hopefully it will help the grape vines stay more firmly in the soils. Any thoughts on it?
Cheers! :)
Hi Huw. Is the stake permanent or will it be removed once the tree is established? How will you remove it without damaging the tree roots?
Amazing method 👍👍👍
Thank you!
@@HuwRichards yes
Just planted 20+ fruit trees. I am following Ann Ralph’s method “Grow a Little Fruit Tree”.
I can tell you have soaked this tree in water for about twelve hours which is usual advice. Thanks very much on explaining the rationale for a square hole I also uused to wonder about he positioning of stakes. Thanks.
The tree had been heeled in in soil. He did not soak again and it's not necessary to do so unless you just received a shipped bareroot tree and plan on planting within 24 hours.
Great tips! Have any experiments been carried out to test planting two fruit trees in one hole? Other CZcamsrs claim you can but I would like to see some research. I would like to grow two pear trees (2 early and late varieties) with very limited space. Or is 3 feet apart better? Thanks
Hey Huw, how have you been editing your books ? You are working with a local editor ? Thanks
Hi Huw, quite surprised you did not use mycorrhizal fungi whilst planting as making that connection is so important, is there a reason why you refrained from using it?...Steve...🙂
Not necessary, plus I'm trying to show you the most affordable method possible. I could also do the most expensive method, and include fungi;) I plan to potentially inoculate the soil at a later date, but again not necessary
Do you need to pluck off the first flowers so that the tree yeilds in more fruit the next time it flowers?
Its now may and i have just bought a few bare root trees, because it is getting brighter and warmer will it be a bad idea to plant it in the ground? Would it be better to keep it in a pot until next year so that i can keep it in shade?
I've just got a red/black currant trees, however I'd like to keep them in large pots incase I move?
Thank you Huw for this informative vid. In the last 2 successive years We’ve planted one Russian hardy crabapple and a cortland. I had ‘eyed’ bare root but as a novice wasn’t familiar with them. This vid helps for any subsequent consideration of fruit trees. I’m in zone 4b so hardiness is important. Would you have any suggestion as to what could complement these two, in bare root? What would be the difference in maturity to fruit, if any? Enjoy your perspectives on gardening, “from across the pond”. Karen
I live in Scotland and have experienced temperatures all the way down to -20C.
I've found that cherry trees are very tolerant of cold temperatures and I even have a peach tree in a large pot against the cottage wall, where they benefit from the shelter (grown from a stone and utterly delicious. They come true from seed and are well worth a trial - there is a permaculturist channel in Canada and he grows loads of peach trees successfully).
I have several different apple hybrids (mostly Jonagold for their exceptional storage qualities), gazillions of hazelnut trees (one of my main protein sources), and 3 different types of plum (Chinese, Victoria and Opal).
Pears don't do well for me, it's just that bit too cold here.
Plum trees have a tendency to flower early and blooms can be killed off with a late frost (I lost all my plum blooms last year and not a sausage from any of them. Amazing crop the year before).
If you plant cherries, do remember they have very long, strong, searching roots. I plant mine well away from walls, buildings and service pipes/cables. No joke, they can wreck them. I used to work in a garden where a dozen concrete steps were uplifted and 'broken' by Prunus 'Kanzan,' the flowering cherry.
Maybe you can build up confidence planting bareroots by planting bareroot fruit bushes first (this is what I've been doing all winter, with 50 new blackcurrant plants in the ground, some fine Damsons, and yellow gooseberries - all bareroot and cold resilient).
Currants and gooseberries are not only very resilient in cold weather regions, but they also won't mind a bit of shade cast by your existing Crab and Cortland apples.
In fact, my best Blackcurrant grows under the shade of an ancient Hazel and my green gooseberries seem to 'prefer' shade (the ones slinking under a very large goat willow grow and fruit much better than the ones in full sun).
@@debbiehenri345 Blessings to you for this is good tried experience, thank you. On a much smaller scale, I have planted, a yellow gooseberry alongside 2 types of elderberries & a red current planted 2 years ago near the water. I have 2- 5 year blueberry bushes in a sunny protected area, (varying produce from year to year), and planted 2 black and 2 red raspberries in another area last year. The birds have a feast, as we feed them. I’m hoping to get a balance of crop between us. I like the idea of a cherry tree, our former neighbour planted one, so it’s viable, and your caveat on location is welcome. Lol, I’ve saved seeds from plum, date and peach, -thinking... I’ve home grown an avocado, lemon verbena tree in pots, along with a mini olive tree. These are transferred inside-late fall. I enjoy the experience and fun of experimenting. The jonagold apple, you mention is definitely worth pursuing for the storage bonus. Now where to put it. There is one permaculture channel here, of which I subscribe for pruning tips and plantings. Thanks for your tip on the gooseberry, I’ll maybe try taking cuttings to plant under the apple trees. This year, temp late Jan -30. Haven’t seen that for a long time: cycles. Hope this year is abundant for you.
Are there any tree-planting grants from Government that could cover orchards too?
Nice one how I've planted two pear trees and two apple trees this year
Great! :)
I would suggest you to put the support stick on the north side so it will never shadow the plant/tree. You can put a small piece of foam between the stick and the tree so the wind won't break the stem into the stick.
Not sure that tiny bit of shade is going to create a shadow of a difference 😉
You can check every 2 hours and share 😊
My father love your videos Can you put Hindi subtitles he tried to watch your videos with auto translate but they are not accurate lots of love from India 🇮🇳🇮🇳💕💕💕💕
#GreetingsFromPHILIPPINES
Is late April/May too late to plant a bare root tree?
I have clay. Gonna plant a bare root Granny Smith as soon as it gets here
Is it just me?? The last few videos that I have watched, you reference other videos, but they don't pop up on my screen... No one else has mentioned anything but this is at least the 3rd recent video that references another video but doesn't actually seem to include it... I was really interested in the guild video that is referenced but I don't know where to find it :(
Can you do an update video on this orchard
You'll see an update of this very tree in one of my garden tour videos this spring
Curious, what happens to the stake when the tree gets bigger?
You remove it. It was our habit in the Royal Parks to first cut the stake shorter (to add a tree tie lower down), and later on either take it out completely (if we could) or cut it off at soil level.
It normally only needs a year, maybe two, before it's cut-down/removed. You have to keep checking tree ties through the growing season to ensure they're not biting into the tree trunk as it grows and swells.
@@debbiehenri345 very helpful. Thank you!
👍🏻♥️
Tree pro grow tubes
Can you clarify what you mean by healing it in?
Covering it with dirt in a temporary spot like a shallow trench outdoors or a bucket indoors until you can plant it where you want it.
Perfect ^
Soak the roots in Mycorrzhial GEL for 5 seconds for bare root trees is what I’d say …… small pouch £6 or large pouch £20. No brainer. Easy as pie. Bing bang bong. Done
I've got 73 dif fruit trees all in 100 litre pots
Great video Hugh as usual, but why on earth are you promoting the old ‘square hole’ myth. There is no evidence for this, rather what evidence there is favours round holes which are much quicker and easier to dig.
Thanks Tim! I actually personally find square much easier to both initially dig and then excavate. Two spade lengths for each length, lift off to pop, then I have straight sides to easily scoop out soil which I find much harder to scoop out soil as tidy with a circular hole. But we all have our preferred methods🌱
@Disabled-Megatron it does work, yes, the myth is that it is better than a round hole
Wouldn't an pentagram hole be better? 6 sharp corners.
if we didn't have a male dog, I would've planted fruit trees awhile back, but so far he has killed a grape vine, a blueberry, three raspberrys, and two blackberries; so maybe it's not for me
Try getting some inexpensive landscape fencing and step in posts to put around your new trees. It will keep your doggo from digging and peeing on your tree.
Tree guards and scent pellets/pepper. My old (male) dog used to have a habit of hanging around me while I was planting in the garden, and as soon as I started clearing away my tools, he would sit on or against the plant, often squashing poor young fruit bushes - but he stopped doing that as soon as I gave it one dose of pepper, and a tree-guard helped him 'overlook' the plant in the future.
@@debbiehenri345 thanks!
Seems to me that you havent firmed the soil under the roots enough, so it is gonna get lower in few years and bury the root flare too deep, so the tree may rot.
If a circle hole makes trees have spiral roots because the ground is 'too solid' then trees could never grow roots in the ground naturally.
All these how to guides just repeat the same nonsense.
Want to plant a tree? Dig a hole and stick it in.
I think the studies seem to think roots can break through corners easier than the compaction of soil in a circlular hole 🤷🏻♂️ I find it easier to dig a square anyway