DIY Modified Kayak Trolling Motor Remote Speed Control Box
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2016
- This is a remote speed control box for use with trolling motors having 5 forward and 3 reverse power settings. The switch from the original trolling motor head unit was removed and installed in a DIY control box. This switch works for both Minn Kota and Newport Vessels trolling motors.
- Sport
Thank you again Aksman for the quick reply and detailed answers. You rock.
Where do the wires come from to wire volt meter i lost u after speed control switch.
Yep This is exactly what I did 4 years ago. Nice to see a video on it! Fairly simple to do and this is an excellent tutorial!
Unlike other youTube videos with head banging music, this is the best thorough walk through demo which I have seen. You have answered my questions that I have been searching for. Many THANKS for sharing your work!!!!
Thanks Vinh. I try to keep my videos short and to the point. I just want information on projects...not music and/or excessive talking that makes some videos way too long.
I know this vid was years ago but it was a life saver for my new project! Thank you!
Glad to help.
I’ve been binge watching all your videos and I’m glad I ran into this one. Going to do just this for my Newport Vessles. Thank you!
Glad to help!
I love the video and decided to use your design but the only trouble I'm having is the knob itself.I've tried 3 different ones and none seem to fit for me. would you happen to know exactly what knob you used...thanks
Just wanted to say thanks for the idea. I have my trolling motor all setup to a box that Velcro's on the side of my pontoon boat.
Glad to have helped Keith.
Love your instructional videos. Fantastic!
Thanks. Glad you like them.
you da aksman have been looking for something like this for my kayak . i was just thinking of buy a foot troller 45lb, but didnt want the weight. think this will work for me. thanks for sharing .
Thanks David. Glad I could help.
I really enjoyed this video thank you. I’m going to try to do the same thing with my inflatable. It’s going to have a hard floor but I’m wondering if there would be a foot pedal switch that might work similar to this setup? Thanks!
Thanks Jason. Yes, there are a couple of momentary switches that can be used as a kill switch. I actually made a video of that project. Here is the link. czcams.com/video/XXD0L2HfiG0/video.html
Thank you so much for sharing this video, you're a true inspiration. I have few questions if you don't mind answering:
1. Do you seal the hole on the bottom of the electrical box? if yes, with what?
2. How do you extend the original wires from the motor to your box?
3. Do you need any circuit braker / fuse box to protect your motor?
4. How do you wire voltage meter and how do you read it to know the hours/percentage of battery is consumed or left?
Thanks again
Thank you Bashar. To answer your questions: 1. Yes, I sealed the hole in the bottom of the box using a 3/4 inch threaded PVC pipe fitting. Both sides of the fitting are threaded and the internal thread is secured with a PVC threaded ring and marine goop. The outer thread is then screwed into a hole in the kayak using marine goop as well. 2. I extended the wires using the same gauge wires and colors so the wiring would stay the same. I used waterproof wire connectors for the splicing and switch hook up. The short length of the wire splices will not adversely affect the motor. 3. Yes, I would definitely use a circuit breaker. A good rule of thumb for designing is that for every pound of thrust on a trolling motor, it draws 1A of current. So, if you use a 30lb thrust TM, then assume it draws 30A of current. When you choose the breaker, use at least one rated for 10A above your motor to be safe in case there is a current surge. 4. The voltage meter uses a red (power) and ground (black) wire. You can hook it up directly to the battery using a fuse in between the red wire from the gauge and battery. You can also run everything into a fuse box (this is a little more complicated though). I hope this helps.
Did you use a quick connect system for the wiring between the trolling motor and the switch IE: a trailer connector of some sort?
You could, but I didn't do it on that project. I ran the wiring inside the hull to the box directly.
Thanks for the quick response! In your other videos I have seen that you have used a quick connect before. Wondering if you need a 6 pin for the six wires from the trolling motor. also wondering if you just use a generic connector like you'd use on a vehicle or if you know of a better one.
Yes, I have used quick connects on many of my projects. I didn't use it on this one because I didn't like the big 7 pin connector that I would have needed to use. I have seen others use the 7 pin trailer connector successfully. The trailer connector is usually weather resistant. You just leave one pin unconnected to do it.
How did you fasten your extension wires to the switch when you installed the switch in the 2" high box. I am using the same size grey plastic electrical box and can not find any 90 degree push on terminals that are large enough for #10 wire as straight push on terminals are to long to work when installing the switch in the box. Thanks Gary
Hi Gary. As you can see, some of the switch terminals are bent a little. You can do that if you can't find any 90 terminals for 10G wire. Just don't break them.
Just found some #10/12 gauge 90 degree terminals on EBay, Must have missed them before when I was looking. Thanks Again Gary
can we see this box in action?
I was thinking about doing this for a larger kayak, I was wondering if you could possibly create a 2’ - 3’ length custom cable with the 4 wires coming out of the top of the trolling motor and turn it into a 4 pin male plug to enter into a female connection that is waterproof for a quick disconnect. I would run the 4 wires from the permanent female connection to my new hand control location and then from there I’d run the two to wires to the battery.
Yes, it can be done. I made a similar power plug/kill switch box (see video).
I’m looking to do this for my Endura C2 30 and was wondering; How did you wire the switch once relocated to the box? Wiring configuration is what I’m looking for. Thanks
The switch has color coded markings at each connector.
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you...I have a 55 LB thrust Newport motor. A couple of PWM's have already failed...If I find a reliable PWM, is it that much of an advantage over using the switch in the motor as you show here? Does the PWM extend the battery?
Thanks in advance
Glad to help. A PWM or ESC will extend battery life. Check out my Minn Kota Traxxis control board build. It would work fine for a motor that size.
I very much appreciate your response@@Aksmaniyak
Thank you😀
Minn Kota or Newport? Same quality???
Great video! I can't wait to put all of this into action. Couple of questions: what kind of knob did you use on the control and where did you get it? Also, where did you get the voltage meter and how do you hook it up? Is it used to let you know the strength of your battery? I'm a novice and just making sure I'm doing it all right.
Thanks Randy. If you check out other comments here you will find the Amazon link for the knob. I also got the VM from Amazon. The VM is very easy to hook up, red wire POS +, black wire NEG - , and it measures the voltage of the battery. We were all novices once...ask any questions if you need help.
Thanks so much!
Thanks
Just wondering based on your knowledge of the design, would it be possible to just extend the wires from the head to a place where your could control the head and use something else to control motor?
Yes. I have done that on other builds.
What did you use as a knob?
I ordered a universal 1/4 inch half moon slot knob from Amazon but any similar one should work.
enjoyed your video where did purchase the voltage meter
Thank you. I ordered most of those items on Amazon.
Great work! I was wondering what gauge wire you used to extend the remote speed control box to the main motor to make it longer?
Thanks Gareth. I used 10G on the red/blk and 14G on the yel/wht.
@@Aksmaniyak cool thanks!
@@garethlalexander8620 You are welcome Gareth.
Aksman, tnx for your vids, they are of great help. between the vids and the comments, there almost nothing left unchecked !
could help me with 2 questions i'm left with at this point:
my setup is a Hobie outback & Minnkota Endura C2 30LB.
1. you mentioned connecting the VM directly to the battery using a fuse. why should I use a fuse there, and which one ? (unless this is also the main fuse for the entire system?).
2. the reason I haven't been using this engine yet is because i don't want to carry a super-heavy battery. my plan is to buy a Lithium battery (LiFePo4 type).
seeing all your vids, I wonder, why don't you use a lithium?
do you have any LiFePo4 you would recommend ( I believe with 50A I'll be in the safe zone for most of my needs)?
to be honest, I was mainly putting my eye on this one: www.bioennopower.com/collections/lifepo4-batteries-for-marine-fishing-kayak-applications/products/12v-50ah-lfp-battery-abs-sealed-ws?variant=1308418248 , but I'm unfamiliar with those batteries or any other brands, to be honest.
3. how do you seal the bottom section (the engine section) ? some told me you shouldn't because the hollow tube is a heat conductor, others told me it's a must, because all the failures eventually arrive from water getting in there.
4. how do you seal the knob, so wave-water won't get in to the box (given that it''s a dynamic, constantly moving part)?
tnx again, you spoil us with awesome help and inspiration !
EL
Thank you Eldad. I hope that I will answer your questions to help you.
1. If you use a VM and connect to the battery, a 1A fuse will be large enough.
2. I use the AGM batteries instead of Li batteries because they are much less expensive. I have never used a Li battery so I am unable to recommend one.
3. The shaft is protected by using the 90 degree PVC fitting. I heated the fitting until it becomes pliable and then press it onto the shaft. I seal it after it cools with some marine goop spread on the shaft.
4. I seal the knob by making the hole as small as possible. The fit is very tight and again I spread a thin layer of marine goop to seal it. It is very water resistant.
I am glad that my videos have helped you. This is why I share my knowledge.
What guage wire did you use to extend from/to the speed controller? The yellow and white wire are different size from the other ones, and where they marine grade and where to buy? Also if I install a 7 port trailer plug does it need to be grounded for the TM?
Hi Steve. The yellow and white wires can be 14 or 16 G. The power blk/wht is 10 G. Yes, I use all marine grade wiring.Try BestBoatWire.com for the best prices.
@@Aksmaniyak thank you, you're stuff helps me a lot.
@@Van50van You are welcome.
Did you have to wire in a potentiometer to be able to vary the speed? Unless I have something wired wrong I’m only able to get full power forward and full power reverse. I love your videos thanks man!
Thanks Chase. This box uses the original 5F/3R trolling motor switch removed from the head. It should operate the same way as the stock switch.
Maybe its just me but I can't find where to buy a pointer knob to turn the switch. I'm using the round knob from the minn kota motor but it is very loose. Where did you get your knob? Thanks!
I bought them on Amazon. Here is the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HMC1XA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Aksman I was having the same problem, just ordered the knobs you recommended from Amazon, thanks for sharing that link! I am replicating your motor and steering setup on my Frontier 12 ad really appreciate your clear instructional videos.
Thanks Bryon. It is nice to know that I have helped people solve some of their design problems. I just completed a video of my updated Frontier 12 and will post it soon.
How well do those Chinese PWMs hold up? I want to save battery but don’t want to spend a ton
Some of them work very well. You just have to make sure that the one you choose can handle the amps drawn from the trolling motor.
I'm in the process of motorizing my kayak, and this seems to be an easier and cheaper solution than going the PWM route. Yet, I have trouble finding any other videos about doing it this way as opposed to a PWM setup. I need to also say that my electrical knowledge is VERY basic, so the simpler the better. In your video here, is the final step just completing the wiring setup from the TM to the controller and battery? Am I missing anything? Finally, in your opinion, which method is better as far as reliability, cost, and ease of use? Thanks!
Thanks. Yes you have the right idea. This is the simplest and least expensive way to relocate the head unit.
@@Aksmaniyak Thanks! I've looked at so many videos related to adding a trolling motor to a kayak, and yours are by far the most detailed and helpful! I think I'm gonna go this route rather than using a PWM just because of everything I've read about potential for those getting too hot. Also, relocating the tm control unit seems to be the most straightforward and inexpensive method too. Thanks again sir!
Glad to help! Thanks.
So this is basically to be able to relocate the control ability into a position of use in your kayak? Seems pretty useful.
Yes. It makes it much easier than using the tiller controls.
@@Aksmaniyak cool. Thank you sir. It seems pretty uncomplicated as well. Thanks for the good upload
Glad to help Dookster! Check out my FB page. I organized the projects a little better. facebook.com/Aksmaniyak/
what wire gauge did you use to extended the wires?
10G for the black/red and 14G for the yellow/white.
Hi, Can you show us on another video on how to attach the battery wiring? Thanks!
Hi Gino. It is very easy to connect the battery wires. The 12V +/- connections are stamped on the switch connector tabs. I hope this helps.
This was great.
Thanks!
I have a 30lb min Kota how much do you save in amps when you install a pwm Thanks
That is a little difficult to give a simple answer. There are many factors involved. I can post a more detailed explanation on my Facebook page if you are interested.
Here is my FB page. I just posted a more detailed explanation that might help you. facebook.com/Aksmaniyak/
Hi there, I’ve been watching your videos and had a couple of questions:
1.) I want to add a male-end quick connect on my trolling motor, with a female end at the stern. Then, I will run the red and black up to the box controller. I am lost from here for the wiring aspect, could you comment a list of parts and steps I would need for a 30lb trust minn Kota, on how to wire the motor to the box, then from the box to the battery? Thank you!
If you search through my videos I'm sure you will find what you need. Just look for the trolling motor set ups.
Where did you get the voltage meter?
Amazon or Ebay have many choices for the meter.
Yeah thanks, I found it on Amazon.
What is the point of this as opposed to just leaving the control head intact and functional?
It allows you to put the switch anywhere on the kayak that you want to for ease of use.
man this is honestly 100x easier to do than adding a pwm and removing/adding cables and having to put fuses.
Yes, it is much easier but not as energy efficient as a PWM.
@@Aksmaniyakhow much less Efficient? Is it worth it to do this or a pwm?
@@milfandcookies8673 It depends on your budget and how you run your motor. A PWM will save on the amp draw from the battery and give you "infinite" speed settings. In my opinion, a PWM is worth it.
So this is not a PCM but just a remote control for you trolling motor?
Yes. This is not a PWM. This is a remote box using the stock 5F/3R switch.
Were do I find the turn knob ?
Hi. It was listed in some other comments but here is the link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HMC1XA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The pwm video phases this out correct?
Hi Chad. The PWM video is an alternative speed controller to this project. Some people do not want to buy a PWM and/or are unsure about wiring it up.
Cheers..videos have been super helpful..gonna go for the pwm..doesnt really look too difficult..and people are selling them for 80$..
Glad to help. I definitely prefer a PWM over the standard speed controllers.
Hola, me podrias comentar donde has comprado esta caja estanca, pues estoy haciendo una instalación a un motor eléctrico de 46 lbs, un saludo
Hola. Compré la caja en Home Depot. Lowes también los tiene.
ok gracias
Great video. I will be using your design. Please get a different camera though.
Thanks for the compliment. Unfortunately, I use my previous cell phone as the camera and it will have to do the job for a while.
I'm having trouble finding that knob.
It doesn't have to be that exact knob. Amazon has many choices.
I found a knob off an old washer machine that fits perfectly. Haha. Looks pretty snazzy too. @@Aksmaniyak
Nice. I pull knobs off junked machines when available at the large items disposal sites.
what size are your letters and numbers?
Thanks
I used a P-Touch lettering tape machine on the large setting. I think that is approximately 1/4".
Thanks I found some white 1/4 inch adhesive vinyl letters and numbers on Amazon. I bought all other materials and have started building this. Thank for sharing!
Great Don. I'd like to see your project when completed.
I have finished but don't know how to post a pic on here
I looked and can't figure it out either. Are you a member of the Kayak DIY Projects & Tutorials Facebook page? It's a great group that shares these types of projects. You can post it there if you want.
Can u make a video when you take it off your trolling motor so we can have a better idea bro.
Oh you did. Hahah nvmd bro good shit
Thanks!
What nob did you use to go on there
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HMC1XA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I love the video and decided to use your design but the only trouble I'm having is the knob itself.I've tried 3 different ones and none seem to fit for me. would you happen to know exactly what knob you used...thanks
what gauge wire did you use for this?
10G for the blk/red and 14G for the yel/wht.
I love the video and decided to use your design but the only trouble I'm having is the knob itself.I've tried 3 different ones and none seem to fit for me. would you happen to know exactly what knob you used...thanks
Here is the Amazon link. Thanks! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HMC1XA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1