I'm not going to disagree with your statement. However, can you explain to me why you said that? If the wood is dry and there is no longer growth, then besides looks, why would you need to throw it out? Out of the whole long boring video this is what you zeroed in on? 😁
@@zionfranzDead mold is just as allergenic and toxigenic as viable/live mold. Certain species will also create carcinogenic mycotoxins in an attempt to protect themselves (plus the colony will heavily sporulate as a last ditch attempt to continue its cycle of life by throwing its seeds/spores out) when under threat from harsh chemicals, such as the most likely chlorine based chemical used in this video. The mold is still there, it’s just been pigmented fyi.
My strong suspicion is that it is a chlorine based product that is used for mold “stain” removal. As others have commented, this is not proper remediation. Just killing mold is not enough since dead spores can have the same allergenic symptoms in people as live spores. Source removal without cross contamination is the key to proper remediation.
@@laurenmcentee79 no negative air, and a proper mold remediation you vacuum the affected areas with a HEPA rated vacuum. Then you sanitize entire work area. You're literally just spraying mold particles throughout the room and there's no negative air to remove spores in the air. Also you didn't contain the work area. So you could of affected other areas of the house
@@laurenmcentee79 also the work area should be completely dried out before a mold remediation can even start. So painting is actually a great added step to seal all framing from growing more mold. The framing should be dry or the mold remediation is pointless. If there's moisture anywhere mold will grow.
@@newchallengershobbies5882 Painting can be a useful add on however you should continue to let the area dry out after remediation. It also depends on how bad your moisture problem is. As far as the other things you mentioned you’re dead on. My first thought was there’s no containment zone.
The problem causing the moisture should be properly dealt with prior to starting remediation and all work areas should be dried out before the remediation starts. You don't need to continue drying If the area is already dry before you start mold remediation
What pump did you make sprayer from? What type of nozzle do you use
Ulv fogger vs thermal fogger? this thermal fogger seemed to do a better job in the aspect of coverage which one is better?
what chemical did you spray
I'd like to know that as well.
the wood wall paneling with the water damage on bottom should have been pulled out and thrown away
I'm not going to disagree with your statement. However, can you explain to me why you said that? If the wood is dry and there is no longer growth, then besides looks, why would you need to throw it out? Out of the whole long boring video this is what you zeroed in on? 😁
The new owner porbaby didn't want to pay for it. He is doing mold remediation not construction.
@@zionfranzDead mold is just as allergenic and toxigenic as viable/live mold. Certain species will also create carcinogenic mycotoxins in an attempt to protect themselves (plus the colony will heavily sporulate as a last ditch attempt to continue its cycle of life by throwing its seeds/spores out) when under threat from harsh chemicals, such as the most likely chlorine based chemical used in this video. The mold is still there, it’s just been pigmented fyi.
Can I ask what chemical you are using for the mold on the wood ? And also did you spray and scrub the wood?
My strong suspicion is that it is a chlorine based product that is used for mold “stain” removal. As others have commented, this is not proper remediation. Just killing mold is not enough since dead spores can have the same allergenic symptoms in people as live spores. Source removal without cross contamination is the key to proper remediation.
@@JemheadAmen, do you remediate?
Yes I did for 10 years following IICRC training and have been a licensed assessor for 3 years.
@@Jemhead That’s cool. ACAC certified? And do you use standard air and surface sampling, or have you gotten into PCR testing too?
@@Jemhead Would you recommend spraying everything down with a chlorine based mixture then follow up with an antimicrobial?
This is not a mold remediation
Why do you say that?
@@laurenmcentee79 no negative air, and a proper mold remediation you vacuum the affected areas with a HEPA rated vacuum. Then you sanitize entire work area. You're literally just spraying mold particles throughout the room and there's no negative air to remove spores in the air. Also you didn't contain the work area. So you could of affected other areas of the house
@@laurenmcentee79 also the work area should be completely dried out before a mold remediation can even start. So painting is actually a great added step to seal all framing from growing more mold. The framing should be dry or the mold remediation is pointless. If there's moisture anywhere mold will grow.
@@newchallengershobbies5882 Painting can be a useful add on however you should continue to let the area dry out after remediation. It also depends on how bad your moisture problem is. As far as the other things you mentioned you’re dead on. My first thought was there’s no containment zone.
The problem causing the moisture should be properly dealt with prior to starting remediation and all work areas should be dried out before the remediation starts. You don't need to continue drying If the area is already dry before you start mold remediation