2006 Toyota Sienna Driver's side CV Axle Replacement
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- amzn.to/2Q12Qbc Lisle 39510 30mm Axle Nut Socket
amzn.to/2NVtCiv Cardone Select 66-5260 New CV Axle
Just another quick video showing how to replace the CV Axle Shaft on a 2006 Toyota Sienna Minivan Driver's side. Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Update** I found this video from FixitAngel that shows how to take out the passenger side CV Axle:
• Toyota Sienna Rear Mot...
The video is showing how to replace the rear motor mount, but taking out the CV Axle is part of that process.
I watch alot of mechanical videos and this guy is by far the best video creator on car repair tutorials I've ever seen. He doesn't yap on and talk too much he gets to the point and only shows the key parts you need to see to understand whats needing to be done. They should give this feller his own Sunday hotrod repair show. Thank you bro for this video you are amazing. I love it
I believe
91ft lbs for the 3 bolts
217 for the axle nut.
81 for the lug nuts.
Lift car only on the side you’re working on, reduces amount of ATF lost, ask me how I know!
If you are doing this - you might want to verify your front wheel bearings are in good order as well - if not replace them now - as the same work has to be done to get at them. To check your front wheel bearings hold the tire at the top and the bottom - rock the tire in at the top and out at the bottom and reverse that procedure - if you have any play - replace your bearing it is bad. This would have been a good piece of information to post in your video.
You can get the 30MM 12 point Deep-well Impact Socket at Autozone.
The Axle Nut Lock indention can be pried up by using an angled steel punch - I recommend it - you will break the nut free easier and removal will be a tad easier.
If only all jobs were as simple and quick as the Driver Side CV-Axle.
Awesome, got this job coming up and I'm glad to see it is way more simple than I was initially thinking it would be.
I changed out my Passanger side shaft I used an air hammer on the inside of the Bearing to get it out of the carrier worked like a charm took about two mins! then shaft came right out!
What kind of air hammer did you use?
If you dont have a pry bar that will get behind the inner cv joint. I've taken a piece rope, tied a slip knot and slid it between the inner CV joint and the engine. You can attach that to a pry bar or a board. Use the strut or control arm to pry against to pop the CV joint free
Thanks for the video. This video shows the easiest way to replace the axle by undoing only the 3 bolts at the bottom and nothing else. Other videos all show lot more disassembly which this video shows is unnecessary. I have to do the same job on 2007 ES350. I hope it's the same procedure.
Thank you for spending your time creating this helpful video.
Thanks for this, I have a 2007 but I’d expect the process to be the same. I’ve never attempted any significant auto repair before but I’m not afraid to fail so that’s half the battle.
How did it go?
OK, this is a huge help! Thanks for putting this up!
Torque on main bolt is roughly 200ft*lbs. removing 2 strut tower bolts and leaving the lower control arm alone also works
Home Depot for the 30mm deep well 12-point socket. The auto parts stores only had the short 12-point sockets which are not deep enough.
Thank you Dan ! saved me alot of time watching your video first! and saved me some money as well. 30 mins or so to do this replacement .
Wow that's pretty fast!
No problem. I am glad you liked the video, and glad to hear you saved some money!
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
well you did give details about socket sizes! then I just followed instructions. The old axle broke into two pieces when I pulled it out. The old one took a little prying and popped right out. The new one took a little push and turning and in it went . zero complications. thanks again
Hey Dan is this the same procedure for a 2003, also my front end shakes when I give it gas, going up a hill it seems to shake more, I was thinking the cv axle was bad, the right side shakes more than the left, and no shake when I am not giving it gas. what you think???
Going to do this tonight, mines torn too, vibrates a little at certain speeds under load.
Really good video with great tips. Thank you for posting.
Passenger side cv axle is a whole different ball game. Lol
simplified for easy digestion. Thanks
I also checked around town at the automotive parts stores and online. I eventually ordered a 4 socket set (12 point) from a seller on ebay. $28.00 for the set.
those squared off edges on the OEM shaft are for the slide hammer attachment
I never knew that's why they were that shape. Makes perfect sense...
Thank you very much for the helpful information!
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Those squared-off edges indicate the spider joint has a gimbal bearing as opposed to the (lousy) slug bearing of the inferior replacement (the gimbal bearing allows another axis of movement).
@@nwsvndr exactly! I knew that replacement is not equivalent and would have bought a Cardone or equivalent with the gimbal
Home Depot has the 30mm 12 point socket by Husky. Didn't even bother going to a parts store, because they are always a waste of time when trying to find shit. 😁
Do you need to change the seal between cv axle and transmission?
Is it recommended to replace both or is replacing only the one side acceptable? Btw, great video..
This would've been a good opportunity to replace both the ball joint and the sway bar link.
Great video!! Did it need a new oil seal where the new driveline axle/cv boot meets the transmission? (or is that differential?)
You probably dont give a shit but if you're stoned like me atm then you can stream pretty much all the latest series on InstaFlixxer. Been watching with my gf for the last few days :)
@Ibrahim Jesse yea, I've been using instaflixxer for years myself :)
You do an excellent job filming and explaining how to do your repair jobs. Do you buy your parts online? If so, would you put the link in the description? Again, great video!
Hi Christopher,
Thank you very much for the nice comment. I sometimes do buy parts online 1aauto.com, rockauto.com, or Amazon.com are the sites I use the most. For this job it was a local auto parts store. Probably O'reilly Auto parts or AutoZone.
Thank you so much for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
thanks so much u just hit on the head of the Neil my respect to u
Very useful information. Is it possible for you to do the passenger side axle removal? I am trying to find info on how to remove that center bearing that the axle shaft passes through to connect to the transmission. I know the driver side directly connects to the transmission, but the passenger side passes through another bearing connection before it connects to the transmission. From many resource, this part is a pain when trying to remove the passenger side axle.
I will definitely do the passenger side axle removal when that cv joint gets bad. It is still in good shape for now. And yes, I have read that it is a more difficult job to do that side because of the carrier bearing. Good luck, and I will definitely make a video and post it when I do it.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Thanks for the clear instructions. Would be great to include the proper torque specs. I assume you torqued it correctly off-camera?
Where did you buy the part for 2006 Toyota Sienna le front wheel drive? Driver side? And what is the part number?
Where did you buy the part for 2006 Toyota Sienna le front wheel drive. Driver side. And what is the part number..
Great video. Thanks. Is it really that easy? Did you have to put more transmission fluid?
thanks . that was a big help
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix It Man
Thank you very much for this excellent video and information! - Subscribed!
Is there a video on how to replace the passenger side CV AXLE on a 2004 Toyota Sienna van?
Hi Tom,
I haven't done the passenger side yet, but when I do, I will make a video and post it here.
Thanks again,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Only issue i see is that grease you put on the clip is going to contaminate the transmission oil. Maybe it will or wont since it's such a small amount.
I started hearing a lot of knocking coming from the front front passengers side wheel so I lifted the car up and found that the black acordion piece on the transmission side of the CV axle is ripped and you can see the ball joint. Is this super serious and in need of replacement stat? Thanks for the video Dan!
thanks dan gracias amigo good video
Will this procedure work for the 2012 Toyota Sienna XLE?!
Hi David,
I haven't done one on a 2012 yet, but it is probably very similar.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
do you need to replace the tramission sealer between the cv axle join to the tramission
Hi, today I got a mistake. when I change driver side CV axle, I take off the c-clip because I can not put it into trans. right now, it is leaking. could how do I solve the problem? Thanks! and then, I found a metal ring inside when I take off cv axle.
Lol you sounded so sad when you said "oh this one is squared and the other is round...but it's ok ;)...I'll manage"
After doing this install, I have an ABS light on. Any idea of how to resolve that or why I'm having that issue? I never removed the ABS sensor or anything. It moved around a little but nothing major. Maybe a wire came loose inside there?
Where did you get the part from ?
DAN, is it more likely the front axles,,,my 2002 Sienna started vibrating like Elvis on the stage when he was 21 or like we were on a super rough road, we pulled over, went to a parking lot to check, drove home slowly, then everything OK. 2 Mechanics can not figured it out, I search online SiennaChat & found out common on Sienna and if the axles has a "play" even just a bit, IT IS IT. COZ the "darn thing keeps going in and out of the transition" were the statement I saw. WHAT'U THINK? Also how much a time a good mechanic should take for the 2 front axles? BTW, HOW MUCH DRIVING LEFT? THANKS A LOT.
The axles could be one cause of the vibrating. Other possible causes are the tires out of balance (could have thrown a weight), or the struts can cause shaking and vibrating as well, - especially if you were driving on a very rough road. A mechanic should be able to change the driver's side axle in about an hour, but the passenger side would take longer. I haven't done the passenger side yet, but I know it is more difficult. As far as how much driving left, depends on how severe the vibrating is under normal driving conditions. If the boots are torn, or if you can see grease that has been coming from the CV boots then it is probably time to change them. Also, when the CV joints on the axles go bad, they might click when driving with the steering wheel turned all the way to either side. An alignment is also recommended after replacing any part/s of the drive-train.
Best of luck to you.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Dan the Fix it Man IF IT WAS Anything ELSE.... THE SHAKING WOULD STAY... I was told. And I think I found a logical mechanic. Plus it just started clocking but then gone. I drive real careful avoiding pot holes. it had not done any vibrating. Took note about wheel alignment.... Thanks very much.
Good. Video, it was the first one I watched!, thanks
do you need to remove the outer tie rod? it seems like you dont remove it and stil have pretty room to work around
Thank you man! God Bless You.
so i dont have to do anything on that tapped down part of the axle lug nut? i hammered up one on toyota corolla im and missed up my axle threads and it got stuck and i had to rethread the axle shaft .....thanks for info
You should tap it down when you are done tightening the nut so it doesn't come loose on the road, but I don't usually try to pry it up before loosening the nut. That part of the nut is soft enough that the bent down outer ring will come back up once you start turning it loose. I don't think it would hurt to carefully pry it back up before loosening it though.
Just make sure you stake it down carefully once the nut is tight.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Mine has an extra rubber boot right in the middle with clamps on both ends trying to see if it's some kind of 2 piece axle if such thing exists. Got vibration only under acceleration.
Rubber boot is a vibration stabilizer which most aftermarket parts will not have. From what I have gathered this is not a big deal but that’s what it is
@@condor5635 thanks for the reply that makes sense
Should the inner joint have some up down play?
When I pulled my axle out of the trans, I lost quite a bit of fluid - like at least a pint. Is there a seal that might be bad, or is that much normal?
You can fill it right back up. I forgot if the Sienna has a Transmission dip stick. Not the end of the world.
Great video. Thank you soooo much
I did everything as showing in the video everything went smooth but the cv axle is making a clunking noise
Could it be a bad axle i bought new
Or am i missing something
It clubks when i shift from park to drive or reverse
And harsh acceleration from a stop
Hi Robert,
I guess it’s possible that the new axle is bad. I would make sure that it’s pushed all the way into the transmission and inspect everything else as well to make sure everything is good and tight and seated properly. You might try to lift it safely and see if you can find the source of the noise or find anything that is loose.
Sorry you are having trouble with it, I hope you get it figured out soon.
Best of luck to you!
-Dan the Fix it Man
What did it end up being?
Anyone else get 30 mm 12 point and it doesn't fit. Replacement axles may change this one i have appears to be standard also but the replacement i picked up came with the 30mm 12 point.
Thank you very much
Dan... I need help and hope you can point me to the correct settings or website to get the info. But I can't find any torque settings for any of the nuts and bolts that are in the video above.. I have both Chilton and Haynes repair manual and found settings for others.. Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks!
I found this on autozone and my Torque wrench max is 150lbs ... Are these settings correct?
Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the 4 nuts t 41 ft. lbs. (56 Nm). Torque the axle shaft nut to 159 ft. lbs. (216 Nm). Stake the nut.
Thank you for doing it
Awesome job thank you
Won't a donut tire mess with your transmission? Aren't you supposed to rotate tires until the donut is in back?
Donut?
What’s the factory torque spec on the center bolt
200-225 ft lbs
How did you just slide that cv axel in like that
As long as it's lined up and the C-clip in the end has a little bit of grease on it to hold it somewhat centered it just takes a little bump or push to get it to go all the way into the transmission. Sorry for the poor lighting and camera quality...This was one that I did many years ago.
Thanks
What kind of gloves are you using?
how about 2008 sienna limited? have you done that? thank you so much!!
2006-2010 is the same job:)
at 6:06 mark, what is that shaft that looks similar to the CV joint, its behind the CV joint going towards rear.
Steering shaft
It’s called the tie rod and it’s for steering
Thank you for the video. What's the torque spec for the axle nut?
187lbs
I think it is 217 ft/lbs@@fattybourgeois1014
How much did it cost you? Where did you get your parts?
did you verify the "C Clip" was locked in place?
Hi Jim,
Yes, you can feel the C Clip snap into place when you push the new axle in.
Thanks for watching,
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan - after watching and reading some comments I asked myself. Is the C clip really required? I mean if I had not been able to put it in and then remove the C clip would it really matter? I think the clip is designed so that it ensures certain depth is maintained by opening up when spinning and doesn’t allow the transmission spline to come out. I wonder if not having it in as a major issue or not. It may allow the spline to go in or out too far which could cause issues. But then again, it might not really do anything. Curious.
Did yours have a bracket you had to remove to release the axle?
No. No bracket. Bracket is on passenger side CV joint
Hey how did you get the ball joint back in. I’m stuck. I can’t get the roter close. I push down I’ve turned the wheel
It may be that the cv spline isn't seated all the way in the hub yet, or that it isn't seated in the other end in the transmission. Just turn it and wiggle it while you are turning it. It might take a little bit of force, but it should go back in without too much trouble. Once you have the CV shaft pushed in at both sides, you should be close enough for the ball joint to go back in. Best of luck to you, hope you get it figured out.
-Dan the Fix it Man
Dan the Fix it Man yeah it’s got about a 1/4 inch left before it seats up against the the transmission. I can’t get it on. You think that ring is keeping it from going on.
I pushed and wiggled on for ever.
I’m not a big guy.
My dad is though he’s a Machanic he’s coming over tomorrow.
Yes, that's definitely why you can't line up the ball joint. Sometimes it helps to put a small amount of grease on that ring to help it stay somewhat centered while pushing it in. A lot of people use that trick, but I know it's not good to put grease in with the transmission fluid... You might try that if it is easy to get it back out to put some grease on the snap ring, or just keep spinning it and pushing. Best of luck to you. Sometimes it is easier with two people.
Keep me posted. I wish I was there to help you.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Dan the Fix it Man just for future viewers. Use petroleum jelly. My dad was a mechanic for 10 years through the 80s and he said that’s what was used for this sort of thing back in his day.
I couldn’t get the new one on the ball joint still so I put the old one back on returned the axle, which I mangled getting out lol. I’ll let the dealership do it.
I’m never working on my car again.
@@thecynic807 your name was perfect for the ending of this post. I'm still laughing
My inner joint and boot broke off and there's nothing to pull on. While pry. Fought with it for an hour with no success
There are several different ways to remove a stuck inner cv joint. If there’s nothing to pry against, you may be able to use a slide hammer with one of many different attachments. There are also a few videos on here showing a few methods and tools that you might be able to make. Sorry you’re having trouble with it.
Best of luck to you.
-Dan the Fix it Man
Don’t you need to change seals in transmission
how different is the passenger side
I haven't done the passenger side on this vehicle yet, but I am told it is more difficult and has another carrier bearing and/or bushing that the axle travels through that is very hard to take off. If you read through the comments on this video, some people have given great advice on how to do it.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
Just found this video from FixitAngel and he shows the passenger side removal: czcams.com/video/7kdmsBs6nl4/video.html
Pretty much the same
Get a battery impact. You make everything take 5 times longer than needed.
How can you tell if the cv joint is bad?
Noises when turning. Ripped or broken boots are the 2 main ways of telling bad CV
Do you replace in pairs?
No
You didn't use a torque wrench, or mention what the "Manufacturer's spec." is.
Yeah, the video is not bad, but why not put the torque values in it?It kind of a waste of time , if you don't give everybody all the information.
You said you ordered the socket what size is it
30mm