Parkside soldering iron secret calibration mode A1 model
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Note that this only applies to the A1 version. A newer B version may not have this feature, but there will be a way to regulate the heat.
After my video showing the circuitry of the Lidl Parkside soldering iron, and how a physical component change could allow the default ferocious 500 Celsius tip temperature to be customised, a few viewers got in touch and described a calibration mode that you can access via the single button on the front. Here's how it seems to work:-
Allow the iron to come up to temperature so the LED lights green.
To lower the tip temperature, press and hold the button until the LED turns red.
Press the button repeatedly with roughly one press per 4 degrees Celsius.
During the pressing the LED will light solid green to show that it is registering the presses.
When finished, wait for the LED to go red again and then press and hold the button until it goes back to normal mode with the static green LED.
To increase the tip temperature, press and hold the button until the LED first turns red and then starts flashing green.
Press the button repeatedly with roughly one press per 4 degrees Celsius.
During the pressing the LED will light solid green to show that it is registering the presses.
When finished, wait for the LED to start flashing green again and then press and hold the button until it goes back to normal mode with the static green LED.
Some experimentation may be required, as I got variable results suggesting that button press timing may be critical. (fast presses seem to work best.)
I'm not sure if this adjustment is documented somewhere or if someone worked it out by using the "press and hold to see if something happens" trick. Kudos to the person who discovered this.
Using this technique can bring the tip temperature down from the default 480/500C to a more suitable tin/lead soldering temperature with about 26 presses in "red" mode. If your iron is "smoking" the solder and making it dark and crusty very quickly, then doing this will extend the life of the bits greatly, and also result in a much faster warm-up time of just 30 seconds.
If you go too far and the solder isn't melting correctly (lead free?) you can nudge it up again by entering "green flashing" mode and doing three clicks to nudge it up about 12C at a time as needed.
If you have a soldering iron temperature tester, then the unit does seem to respond in real time when in the calibration mode, allowing for the irons thermal inertia. So you can theoretically leave it in calibration mode while nudging the temperature up or down one click at a time before exiting calibration.
Let me know if this works for you, noting that later models may change the software or default temperature over time. This version has model number PLSA 20-Li A1
Supporting the channel with a dollar or two on Patreon helps keep it independent of CZcams's quirks, avoids intrusive mid-video adverts, gives early access, bonus footage and regular quiet Patreon live streams.
/ bigclive
#ElectronicsCreators
This is a good feature and turns it into a useful "second iron" (rather than a soldering sledge hammer). As it is on sale in Lidl (UK) from tomorrow at £13, I would say get one if you haven't already, especially if you already use Hakko type tips. If you want to make it even better you could change out the pvc lead with a flexible silicone one. (But not if it is your only soldering iron!)
I was also thinking swapping the lead for a silicone one.
Cool, for £13 I'll get one, even though I'll have to mod the battery attachment for my Aldi batteries.
@@welshdave5263 For an extra £25 you can get a 2Ah battery and charger. The 2Ah works for me because I use it for "soldering to the work" jobs that are generally only a couple of joints. Other stuff can come to the bench and the "proper" station. The Lidl batteries are really cheap (and a good source of 18650s!). 2Ah - £15, 4Ah - £28. My cheap knock off Makita batteries cost more than that and last nowhere near as long.
@@angusmclean4783 I don't have any Lidl tools so no real use for their batteries, I already have 6 of the Aldi batteries and a few of their tools.
I'm of the same mindset with regards to the Makita clone packs, got an old Erbauer ERB183 18V NiCd jigsaw converted to Aldi packs (I think they have Panasonic cells), once I've repaired the Makita angle grinder I've picked up I'll 3D print an Aldi to Makita battery converter and get more Aldi packs than buy Makita clones.
@@Okurka. thanks, I'll hardware mod the one I get if it's this version.
That's awesome. Suddenly makes it a very nice iron! I was thinking about buying one and replacing the resistor with a potentiomet but this is so much better.
Be careful. There is "optimized" version (with removable pen stand and completely different PCB) that does not have this feature. I unfortunately had to find that the hard way. I have it and I just failed to source second one here (Czech Republic), same as BigClive has.
@@Badgii Thanks for the warning. It looks like the Lidl online store in my country has the same model as in the video. Only €17.99
But the one in the Czech online store also looks the same. Have you ordered from them online and received a different model?
I would still go with the potentiometer. This is for calibration and is probably chipping away at the finite number of MCU flash writes. Although this very well might be a psychological issue of mine...
@@johnromberg I see what you mean but it's not often that I change the temperature on my iron. The only reason I was planning on using a potentiometer instead of a fixed resistor was the ability to have more precise control over the target temperature. Installing it on the outside of the case would be way too much hassle for such a cheap device.
@@johnromberg Given that even the cheapest flash memory can usually withstand north of 100,000 writes, I don't think you need to worry about it. Even if you're adjusting your iron's temperature 10 times a day, 7 days a week, with no breaks ever, you've still got over 2 and a half years before the flash memory starts to fail.
I am always interested in just how much user functionality you can get into something with just one button and an LED.
Infinite
But keeping it user friendly is a different thing.
You wouldn't want to read a manual saying "press the button 26 times until the led starts flashing green 3 times, then press and hold it for 3 seconds until it is lit steady red, wait for 6 seconds, press 8 times until it starts blinking and you're in mode X so you can adjust function X" 😎
@@Ni5ei Should look up the flashlight firmwares like AndurilUI
@@drsquirrel00 Yeah true, that's a great example of using 1 button and losing track where you actually are 🤣
Well, you can transfer a library with one button morse code, if you have the time to do it.
@@Ni5ei Yes, definite infinite! You just have to learn morse 😆
He bumped this video ahead of the queue. That's just how much he loves us.
The miracle of the genius designing the thermocouple makes me smile. It was a special thing at that moment.Big shout out to Big Clive.
Many thanks, Clive. I was going to do the potentiometer mod from your previous video on this soldering station, but this has saved me the job.
I wasn't overly enthused about this thinking it was set at a fixed temp. But knowing this, I'll have to nab one if I happen to see it in the Aldi's over on this side of the pond. Would be nice to have a portable soldering iron without the usual compromises that inevitably come with them. Very cool.
Note that I screwed up and say Aldi instead of Lidl, but the same soldering iron may be available from other similar outlets.
This is brilliant, cheers Clive!
The only complaint I had with mine was the temperature being a bit too ferocious so this is music to my ears
This is a big improvement, makes it a very versatile portable iron. I think I would still prefer my pine/pencil -based soldering iron for bench work though, since I'm often soldering on and off for hours, and the sleep function is very useful for that. I would definitely consider getting one of these if I had the need to solder on the go ... that is, if they sold it here in Australia.
This 'discovery' makes this product a must buy for me now hope the lidl near me would stock them some time soon!
I believe this video/information is gonna cause a sudden increase to their sales of this product which is completely fine but iam hoping they learn from this and make such features more outspoken cause it definitely is a game changer.
This makes it a seriously impressive soldering iron for £13! The only drawback is that it isn't 12v, which would have allowed it to be connected to a car battery.
Boost converter.......
Looking at the schematics I think it would work at 12v. 3dprinted bracket,or an defective battery.
Thank you, so much! 😀 I have the same iron and I too was surprised about how hot it was, tends to burn the flux etc.
Yeah i must admit 500c is a bit too high for fixing gameboys etc so i think i will drop it teeny bit
I've bought loads of Parkside tools from LIDL, usually very high quality, a lot are made by Einhell.
the youtube channel that just keeps giving , Many Thanks Clive
Wow, this saves me a lot of unneeded hacking. After your review of the iron last week, I ordered one from the Lidl on-line shop (over here, in The Netherlands, they're not in the stores at the moment) and it arrived last monday. Yesterday I took it for a test drive and found it a bit too hot for my taste and decided to perform the resistor hack you mentioned this upcoming weekend, to put it into the 330°C - 350°C range, but apparently I don't have to. I like this way of setting the temperature very much, so thanks again! 🥰
You can remove the DS pin on the pcb and put a 10k resistor between B- and DS to activate the circuit, everything works except low battery cut-off.BTW for those interested I have just tested it at 12v, it dose work, start up around 3.5 amp and drops to around 2.4 amp when up to temp.
I do declare! You have a genuine "flux" capacitor!!
Anyway, jolly japes aside, that looks a lot more useful, now that it's 'steerable'. I might have to look at our local, and see if they have any left. Unfortunately, I never seem to be able to get there in time for the good stuff!
Holy hell, just tried it - that solved my one and only problem with it! When I first used it to solder wire to a large toggle switch, it actually melted the plastic housing through the contacts.
Thanks Clive 👍🇮🇪 this is looking better and better. If it comes to my local aldis il be getting one. In fact our local lidels dose a lot of Parkside stuff and aldis dose something else. Can't think what brand they normally sell in their store in my town. But lidels always did Parkside products. And a lot more mens toys in general than our local aldi. I'll be keeping both eyes out for this iron. I'm liking it with every video you do on it Clive. So THANKS AGAIN MY FRIEND 👍👍👍👍👍🇮🇪💚👌
Thank you biclive, now I feel compelled to order that soldering-iron with my next paycheck.
Great video, as per usual, Clive!
I wouldn't mind finding one of these Parkside soldering iron kits, other than via Aliexpress or other of those kinds of companies.
As for the tips going bad, that style of tip seems to have a short life I have several soldering irons and kits with those types of tips.
Before, when they'd lose the "shine", as it were, I just stuck the used ones into a "used tray" so in the future, I might try to re-apply nickle plating.
However, I came across this product,
*Thermaltronics TMT-TC-2 Lead Free Tip Tinner (20g)*
I thought, just for funsies, I'd give it a try. It is expensive however.
When I received it, I thought that I got ripped off because what I got for $10 was this TINY round tin.
So I headed up a totally dead soldering tip and stuck it into the substance in the tin. The substance seems to be something like tiny TINY solder balls surrounded by
*Diammonium Phosphate, so read the instructions and safety warnings before using AND don't touch the substance.*
As I moved the tip around, it because plated again and was like brand new!
I'll admit, I was shocked at how well this worked. I also realized that it would pay for itself after saving 2-3 tips! AND IT HAS.
I just thought that I'd mention this since tips going bad was mentioned.
I wonder if anyone has discovered and is using this product?
Yes I've been using that for years. You can get it for around $4 on Ali
"... to stop people misadjusting it and putting the temperature through the roof. I don't know if there's a cap on that."
Clive, please! If ever there was a formula for a great video!
The downside being that it could toast the element.
Thanks for this Clive, I have this iron and the option to change temperature is handy, I had thought about changing the resistor as seen in the last video but this makes more sense. 🙂
Hi, Clive I have just brought one of these Irons the one I brought has an external temperature control I will update you when I actually received it. I got mine from a well-known Chinese supplier.
It's almost like Clive hasn't caught the trend of abrupt jump cuts. Its charming how he asks for permission before he cuts like we have a choice lol. I've been watching recent videos and ones from 5 years will pop up. I've gotta say Big Clive has the same if not better consistency than McDonald's .
Excellent vid as always. The potentiometer mod was done a fair while ago on CZcams and I know I followed it myself when I purchased mine.
Calibration setting does not work on version B2. Upon examination the circuit board design is totally different and there are no longer the terminals for a Potentiometer or a zero ohm link.
Cheers Big Clive. I have one of these irons. It will now be even more useful!😁
That's a handy feature. The 480 deg preset is far too hot, I usualy solder about 335-340.
If I'm soldering a ground plane I will go upto 450.
I looked for this in my local store after your 1st video but was told its out on Thursay (tomorrow) down south for anyone that has not found it yet.
Might I suggest putting the model number in the title or description, for ease of search?
Someone searches a model number, it'd be nice for them to see this too.
Good idea. I've just added that.
BC is the only one who makes videos about secret features which are not in the bloody manual.
Given how this feature seems to be for factory calibration use, I wouldn't be surprised if going up or down too far wraps around. Also, they probably used 1 byte so there may be a total of 256 levels, some of which are almost certainly far too low to turn the heater on at room temperature, and the other end may drive the element to red-hot and not turn it off. Beware!
I did ponder what might happen if the calibration byte rolled over.
If slow clicks don't work as well then possibly the initial click is to actually engage changing temp, I've seen a similar function on many other things I believe it's a safety of sorts
Thanks Clive, I'm STILL going for the 100ohm 10 turn Pot. There's plenty room for one and yes it's gotta have some surgery with a dremel but I'd get confused to what temp I left it at last and might over click that button. 😂
So impressed I just bought one. I thought £12.99 for the iron was very reasonable. Two 2Ah batteries & a charger was another £40 though 🙄. I always like to have a spare. They seem fresh batteries assembled in late 2021.
I just turn the knob on the bench iron. It seems like a wierd way to make adjustments on the rechargable, but it's better to have the chance to change it. Good luck! 👍
You might be able to use a small audio jack to connect a mouse so you could turn the mouse wheel instead of clicking.
Really handy catch. That's cool!
Very interesting. I have the mains powered one with the knob on it though... You have got me thinking. I do use the 20V team batteries and have loads of them.
Just picked up the B2 model no calibration unfortunately but maybe someone will find an undocumented calibration mode in this model. Still a handy addition to my soldering iron collection when a gas iron is too much of a PIA
Same here, PCB layout is completely different too :| any chance for another video regarding this model ?
There seems to be a corded version for the same price with temp control as well. Might be also interesting to look at?
I think Lidl owe you a free bakery item or 20 since you have probably just increased their sales of this iron by 100%
These things usually sell out quickly anyway, don't they?
But Clive deserves baked goods anyway! 😄
That is really intresting thanks for the tip clive
This hack has worked fine for me. Thanks for the video.
I found an undocumented scanner feature in a set of bubble pack radios once (FRS in the U.S.A., PMR in the UK). It seems that the manufacturer wanted to make a low-priced model but not bother using a different IC. All I had to do was hold down either the channel increment or decrement button and the radio would scan up or down respectively, stopping on any active channel.
My favourite hobbled software fix was my Flir E4 thermal camera. When a suitable script was run it unlocked the full resolution of the thermal sensor from 80x60 to 320x240.
@@user-gx6jb6wc5g Wow, that's a significant upgrade as long as it doesn't cause any other problems such as memory configuration errors. The new resolution consumes 16X the memory for each still image.
@@KJ6EAD I seem to recall it was painless, but no longer possible on newer models. (But if anybody knows differently, please tell!)
@@Peter_A1466 When these kinds of things get out to the public, the marketing guys freak out and the next model is locked down but it's a real treat to the public before they do.
Great I might just get one of them just for silly jobs thank you Clive nice info
That's nice but I think I'll stick to my TS100, because two buttons and a display make it so much easier to control than that one button and two leds. It also runs off a tool battery if you 3D-print a connector for it. With alternate firmware you can even see the state of charge and it will turn off when the voltage gets too low.
I guess it's good value, if you already have a few tools that use that battery system. Just need to add a potentiometer and knob, instead of trying to set the temp by pushbutton, counting, and checking with a calibrating device.
nice... calibration mode engaged.
Awesome video. It will save my soldering tips from cooking
Damn that is good.Comes as a nice surprise for something that cheap.
So, in your previous video of this device you showed where there could be a variable resistor, which got me thinking, do any of the pins on the MOSFET, or the IC, t the unpopulated connector you marked as RDT or the unpopulated connector PRG1 change and/or maintain a voltage that corresponds to the secret calibration that you make that could be used with a test meter or such and some simple math that we could use to 'read' the temperature? Maybe even add a Arduino with 2.4" screen? You've made this really interesting, I'm hoping for a Part 3.
Great video, Clive!
All I need now is an adaptor for my Makita battery!
I'm quite heavily invested in Makita tools and I don't really want to start another tool collection without the adaptor option.
I'm sure someone out there is/could 3D print them... I remember Clive made an adaptor for (name?) batteries some videos back. The electrical connections should be easy enough anyway; why not just wire it up and see what happens? (Voltage check completed first of course!)
Not sure how that would go with the control signal that tells the iron when the battery is low.
@@user-gx6jb6wc5g That's a point that I had, amazingly, thought about!
It will be something to start with - until I get a 3D printer it's a quick option!
Thanks for your reply - appreciated. 😊
@@stepheneyles2198 No need to 3D print-aliexpress sells Bosch and Makita adapters. Only question is what does Parkside battery third pin do and how to make low voltage cutoff.
Lidl also have the B2 model in stock at this moment in time in my town but I'm led to believe that the calibration mode is not present anymore in this model if that helps anyone
Unfortunately I have just found that out having bought one this morning.
Same here...
All I was able to find out is if you attach the battery while holding the button of the soldering statiom, the LED blinks green. I dunno what that means and could not find out more
Perhaps its hot by default for stimulating positive reviews from novices about how it melts everything, and propping up the spare parts division.
Oo. For a minute there I thought your video was called ‘The Parkside soldering Indicent’.
Got two today from Lidl - Get em while u can :-)
I shall have to look for these at Lidl in the US. Not that I need another soldering iron, but I don't have any battery powered ones.
Does it retain the memory if the battery is disconnected?
Yes it does.
Now we can buy several irons and program them to different temperatures, stick a label on it 😆
So you don't have to fiddle around with it every time you need a different temperature, especially if you don't have a (calibrated) temperature probe. 😉
I have a feeling these were adjusted with Fahrenheit in mind but measured with Celsius scale equipment. 500 °F would line up with 260 °C which is a good range for slow paced soldering with leaded solder.
260 would be quite low for lead based solder.
Right, round to Lidl in the morning it is!
This makes this iron so much more useful. Is known how much power the heater has?
I think it's 50 or 60W.
Is this one now your daily soldering iron?
Not quite, but it's very handy, and the 30 second heating is useful.
With the UK bringing in law to eliminate all the different power connectors .. It would be great if they would do the same for battery packs!!
It would be good, but I bet the manufacturers would find a way around it.
@@user-gx6jb6wc5g So many products will be tossed when their battery packs stop working .. horrible really, a lot of my lawn tools are battery powered .. like my fancy lawn mower.
So long as they make adapters so they work with existing tools. We have a lot of Makita tools that all use the same batteries and I'd rather not have to replace them all because they use a battery that's no longer supported (including the lawn mower).
@@hikariyouk Yep, such a law should require companies that stay in the market to offer (at reasonable prices) adapters for all their old products. And this isn't limited to tool batteries. Phone batteries are even worse to get with the right connectors and sizes.
@@stevenspmd I’ve taken to gutting out the battery ( nicads ) and fit the required number of lithium 18650 ( ex Dyson) cells in cell holders. Ie 4 for 14v stuff. Just pop the screws and swap cells which are recharged separately . More power and longish life if not used too often also good part use life for occasional use tools
Could you click down to 'infinity' to test what the minimum temp is?
For someone without a temp probe you'd be "tig soldering" in the dark without knowing a starting temp, so if you could click down a few tens of times to be sure you're at the minimum then you can start counting up to a known temp.
I believe the max is 500C so you can go down from there.
Is be cautious about topping out as it may go higher and could burn out the heater.
@@user-gx6jb6wc5g Yes well then it would indeed be a good idea if you set it to the lowest possible setting and tell people without an iron thermometer what temperature it is so they can put it to aproximately the right temperature by counting clicks.
Do you really need to know the exact "number"? Perhaps better to experiment based on how it is soldering on the job you are doing and how the tip is fairing? (i.e. it need more or less "oomph" (SI Unit for soldering flow)
@@angusmclean4783 True. But I can imagine people want to know. Also handy if you want to temporarily change the temperature to a different setting for other purposes.
THANKS to You Both!
I'll stick with my Weller and its knob and digital readout. Much simpler than having to measure it. If I recall, it wasn't terribly expensive 19 years ago... 😏
This is great, but if you can't measure the temperature how are you supposed to know where you are at?
It's where soldering feels just right.
It really annoys me when sellers don't include the instructions. Sometimes they're useful. 🙄👍
But now you don't have to feel guilty for not reading the manual...
Well this made it a must buy having already got the batteries. It can go in the box with my main Lidl iron and tiny portable Lidl iron 😂
Looks really usefull, and fairly priced especially if one allready has some Parkside tools. Pic16(L)F1823 could do job nicely, with internal 5bit dac and comparator, but likely way overkill for this app.
This is great! Thanks Clive and whoever figured it out to begin with. Does the iron reset to the standard temp if powercycled (battery out)? Or does it retain the set temperature? I don't have any way of testing this so it'd be good to know.
The setting's stored to non volatile memory so it's still set correctly after replacing the battery.
Just checked it. Set the temp to 301C, switched off, removed battery, cooled down and switched back on. Measured again. 301C.
@@angusmclean4783 @Ni5ei Great, thanks to you both 👍
Damn.. I bought it last week (In Czech Republic) and I got an "optimized version" with removable pen stand and completely different version of PCB. And surprisingly, it does not work on that one. So if you have option try to get the one with the non removable pen stand.. seems to be superior to the new "optimized" version I have. At least the temperature feeback seems to be wired the same way (without the place for the potentiometer) so I can at least try cut the wire and add a variable resistor there to set the temperature that way.
For completenes, mine is PLSA 20Li B2, BigClives seems to be PLSA 20 Li A1. Seen like this time the evolution of Parkside Product went the "chinese way" of lowering costs instead of making better product.
Now I want it even more. As long as it is the right one, with this hack. Or maybe I just have to turn the chuck one click back to enable this "secret feature".
Very cool! Does it remember the set value when you remove and reinsert the battery?
Yes it does.
I'm guessing that they have or are planning a version with a temperature display and will use the same control software for that and then include the instructions in the manual.
It seems like the unit is has some heft to it which makes it less likely to skate around the table when in use. The 936 unit I have it very light combined with a stiff power cord and when used slides around aimlessly.
Could this be a feature of whatever iron they borrowed the electronics from? Parkside are a part of grizzly tools who are also something to do with Bosch. I bought the parkside belt sander which is exactly identical to an old Bosch model.
High chance of a noob suggestion, but in the schematic from the original video you indicate a Vref coming out of the MCU. This might go through the sensor and get back to an internal ADC, but could also go into an internal comparator? In which case the Vref might actually change with these software adjustments? Nah, ADCs are plentiful on cheap MCUs, DACs are not... Almost a zero chance of this being true. But I will check once I get this iron, just for peace of mind.
recommend doing a video about EMP surge protectors. do they even work?
How did you do that? At one point I could smell melted solder while you were melting your solder.
It's the new CZcams sensory option.
nosulus rift: the rosin strikes back?
now I'm intrigued to see how high it gets and if it'll eventually melt the soldering iron itself
Hiya Clive, I bought one of these irons on Sunday after watching your first video and this 'hidden' feature makes it even better. I have not tried adjusting mine yet as I need to order an Iron Tester. On that subject have you tested the blue and yellow ones identified as FG-100 models that are on a well known sales site? I can't seem to find a video covering these! The Hakko 191 style that you use in the videos seem to be in low availability currently, maybe these blue and yellow ones have taken the sales spots!
Hiya Clive, Here's an update....Well my RST FG-100 soldering tip thermometer arrived yesterday, it came with 5 sensors and not the advertised 10 and they seem to be Hooky Hakko copies of part # 191-212 with only either a red tag on one lead or a blue tag on one lead and not the normal red and blue tag on each lead, but Hey Ho they seem to work ok..
I had ordered an extra pack of sensors from another vendor and they seem to be Genuine Hakko so tried a comparison with a Gen Hakko sensor and they measure within a couple of degrees so not a problem...
The FG-100 seems to work OK, responding to a change from ambient temp to tip temp and stabilising within 4 or 5 seconds..
Well anyway I tested the Parkside Iron and as supplied it was set at 446 Deg C based on an average of 6 tests. I adjusted and lowered the set temp to 360 Deg C for normal working with 18 swg Ersin Multicore 60/40 Tin / Lead solder and I have to say its far more pleasing to use, not quite as snappy and spitty with the flux, and the tip does not look to be overheating and going weird colours lol..
I did find that changing the setting up and down by just a couple of clicks did not seem too easy and it did not seem to register much of a change in tip temp, it worked better going up or down by 5 or more clicks and seemed to work better and register in the tool settings.
I have to say for £12 this Lidl / Parkside tool is great, looks like my vintage Maplin adjustable temp 50W N-78AR soldering station will be relegated to the back of a shelf in the shed!!
I really want one but they are not available near me. 🙁
Maybe the scale is not linear? Maybe it doesn't change the temperature, but rather the voltage output on one of the pins on the chip? Maybe it's to balance the imperfections/inaccuracies of one of the other components?
Just guessing.
How stable is the temperature with a fully charged battery vs an almost depleted one? Does that iron actually regulates the temperature or is this just the duty cycle of the PWM powering the tip?
It does sense the tenperature.
Awesome 😎 Feature!!!
Hi Clive, just a quick question. I know this isn't related to this video but if I wire two 33uh inductors in series will I get 66uh? Thanks in advance 👍
I believe it does. It's not something I can recall doing.
Thanks I'll give it a go. 👍
420 blaze it
hey there, hope all is well, Clive!
The thing is all sold out in the Lidl Germany store. Lidl may thank you Clive! "Leider ist dieser Artikel aufgrund der hohen Nachfrage online bereits ausverkauft."
(Due to high demand this item is currently sold out online.)
I've been doing some tests and the reference voltage rises as temperature does. It's between about 1.1V at room temp up to about 2.5V at full iron temp (450C?)
Trouble is, I can't match the voltage to my display as the temp voltage scale is logarithmic, as far as I can see, whereas the voltmeter scale is obviously linear. Sad times.
👍👍👍
Clive, does it remember its calibrated temperature when the battery is removed/changed? That would be useful to know.
Yes it does.
@@user-gx6jb6wc5g Nice!
Hi Big Clive, Could you tell me if after choosing the temperature required and then turning off, then using again in day or two whether the temperature setting goes back the the 500c ish setting please . Thank you. Gav.
It stores the setting.
I did think that as it heats up quicker but wasn't sure. Thanks Clive
So, I wonder if there's a way of adding a small mpu (say esp 8266) and screen and code it to display temperature? Hmmm.
Don't think the latest model has this function, just got mine this week and i can't get a solid light by pressing and holding.
Was it really that expensive to add a temperature adjustment wheel?
Probably one of the hottest videos of BigWarming party :)
Seems to me that this is one of those items that could fairly easily have been improved for not much extra cost. Just needs a temperature display and dedicated buttons for adjusting the temperature.
Built to a budget - adding anything adds pence at the factory, which adds pounds at the customer end!