Man! My truck never had a no start in 18 years. Just went to move it to do a ball joint and had a no start. Being in a shit mood i now pulled it to the house with the tractor planning to replace the fuel pump. (3 years old) When i was checking around before i pulled it to the house i noticed one of those “splices” looked broken. Grabbed it and the cap fell off, and the smallest glass fuse i have ever seen in my life popped out. Probably 5 amp. Less than 1/2 inch long. You just made me realize that has to be my problem. I figured a 5 amp fuse wouldnt run the fuel pump. But it might turn the solenoid on that does run the pump. Bro, than you for posting this one!! And also, im not sure if its worth the trouble, but there is a tiny ass little 5 amp fuse in there. You might wanna grab a cheapy and twist in there just for insurance. Would be totally BS if that somehow could mess up the ecu. Thanks again!
Wow this sent me straight to my solution. I putting a carb. in my '93 Silverado on a 357 ci. Motor. I wanted to keep the intank pump and could not find the fuel relay. Now my pump kicks on with the key. Thx so much....
Hell yeah thank u. I just found the short n its wires underneath the driver side that's also linked with the power strip on the firewall that you pointed out and finally I found the short but then I couldn't figure it out any further than that and I kept trying to put stuff in front of it and as soon as I'm with that wire of course the car turns off or stays on depending how fast you hold it I did not know about the resistance or that splice I knew that it was something because of the way they're all have that piece that I did not know you could just cut it off and put the two wires together as soon as it's daylight I'm going to do it before work right now cheers to you I'm drinking coffee thank you very much appreciate it lifesaver
Those are fusible links and are meant to melt under a specific overload due to a short . The idea is to prevent a fire . Be sure to replace a fusible link with another of the same specs.
@@mathiesdewulf8076 Hey! Mine is on the drivers side under the steering wheel to the left. I knew the fuse panel was there but the TOP ROW is totally hidden that holds the 15 amp ecm fuse. Panel is about where your left knee is. I fried mine when I jumped the wrong post on the relay. Spent hundreds trying to fix this before i found that damn fuse lol. Good luck👍
Those are fusible links. A fusible link acts much like a fuse, only it’s designed to handle a different type of potentially hazardous scenario. These links are actually strands of wire wrapped in a fireproof covering, and are thinner than the wiring harnesses they’re connected to. They are placed in-line between delicate harnesses and large sources of electrical current in your car-between the battery and alternator, for example. These links must transmit high-voltage electricity, but also protect the rest of the electrical system from dangerous spikes that could cause a fire. If there’s a surge, the link actually melts, as its resistance to heat is lower than that of the circuits it’s protecting. This cuts off power while protecting the engine bay from a conflagration, thanks to its fireproof wrapping.
Cuando falle la bomba de gasolina, conecta un cable directo de la bateria (12volts) a la terminal G del ALDL y asi sabras si funciona o no.....saludos a todos.
I'm not sure what happened Out looking forward to talking to you I just couldn't figure out not knowing what you look like with which one of the mark bosjolie you are. I was really looking forward to talking to you I didn't make it very far with my truck today coz I had some other things I had to do I really have to get going by tomorrow evening. Thanks for the help. If you would get in touch with me It would make this tired old man very grateful.
Just changed the fuel pump in my 95 1500. And still can’t get it to start. I’m hoping it’s just the relay now. I’ve already spent 120.00 on the dang fuel pump that i probably didn’t need.
Mark thank you for your video I do have a question for you though I'm experiencing the same issue or same type of issue on my 93 Chevy suburban and I was wondering before it started giving you the trouble how did it stop running was it all of a sudden as you was driving it or what is the case on thatI'm just trying to figure out which route I should go I've spent $150 and the last 3 days
I have a problem with my 1992 Caprice hope somebody can help me .. The old fuel tank got defected , After I have changed the fuel tank now when cranking the car immediately the fuel pump fuse get defected !!!!! What will be the reason ?
Thank you man!! Been having intermittent crank, but no start issues in a ‘92 Silverado 350- This solved my issue! Dude, I literally changed everything you can think of to the fuel pump, relays, fuses, distributor, coils, sensors, ground wiring, and all of the above. It was this exact wire from that fusible link to the orange wire🤞😅
Sorry for the delay. I tracked it down to stupid fuel pump relay. Lol. My advice for everyone, is to start there. My old fuel pump is still good. So I fixed that, then tore the truck apart to lower it, put a trans in, redo the interior, and powder coat the wheels.
@@Mikeys1316 I've had an intermittent no crank no start on my 1991 305 . Only happens occasionally & only when stone cold in the morning , once running it never quits & always starts when it's warm. I suspect a bad ground & i did find a greenish bit of copper showing on a ground wire at the thermostat housing that has rubbed through. Bad grounds are notorious on these trucks especially as they age. First there's the ground strap from the battery to the block , then check the block to body & firewall. Rubber body mounts electrically isolate the cab & box from the chassis/ frame. Your computer / dash & switches all need a good ground. On the passenger side of the engine youll see the main wiring harness enter the inside of the fender leading to the computer & other main relays right next to it. Your fuel tank & sending unit needs a good ground as well. I'm going to have to go through all of them soon as well. Aside from bad grounds the pick up (magnetic ) coil can be bad, the distributor gear on the bottom of the distributor can & do get worn, the ignition control module chronically fail due to the heat. Be sure to use a thermal , heat conducting paste when you install a new one ! It is NOT dielectric grease as it must contain microscopic bits of aluminum , brass or other metal for the heat to be dispersed. Sometimes you can try to clean the pad & re-apply fresh thermal grease/ paste but it's likely the hermetically sealed transistors on the board have already failed. Buy AC Delco. You can get burned with chinese knock offs that don't work straight out of the box ! If you want to save money buy three Chinese ones & maybe one will be good may be two or all three will be bad ! These are just places to look as it could be a number of other things. Lots of people put new IAC , TPS , EGR, modules on hoping its one of them & whatever else they can afford( or not!) to roll the dice on. I intermittent problems can & usually are as a result of bad connections & grounds are a good place to start. Don't cheap out on cap & rotor either. Brass contacts & especially the center button & SPRING are the way to go. Aluminum will last for a while but brand name quality is worth the extra dough, just as for the ICM module i just described. Good luck !
Man!
My truck never had a no start in 18 years.
Just went to move it to do a ball joint and had a no start.
Being in a shit mood i now pulled it to the house with the tractor planning to replace the fuel pump. (3 years old)
When i was checking around before i pulled it to the house i noticed one of those “splices” looked broken.
Grabbed it and the cap fell off, and the smallest glass fuse i have ever seen in my life popped out. Probably 5 amp. Less than 1/2 inch long.
You just made me realize that has to be my problem.
I figured a 5 amp fuse wouldnt run the fuel pump.
But it might turn the solenoid on that does run the pump.
Bro, than you for posting this one!!
And also, im not sure if its worth the trouble, but there is a tiny ass little 5 amp fuse in there. You might wanna grab a cheapy and twist in there just for insurance.
Would be totally BS if that somehow could mess up the ecu.
Thanks again!
Wow this sent me straight to my solution. I putting a carb. in my '93 Silverado on a 357 ci. Motor. I wanted to keep the intank pump and could not find the fuel relay. Now my pump kicks on with the key. Thx so much....
Hell yeah thank u. I just found the short n its wires underneath the driver side that's also linked with the power strip on the firewall that you pointed out and finally I found the short but then I couldn't figure it out any further than that and I kept trying to put stuff in front of it and as soon as I'm with that wire of course the car turns off or stays on depending how fast you hold it I did not know about the resistance or that splice I knew that it was something because of the way they're all have that piece that I did not know you could just cut it off and put the two wires together as soon as it's daylight I'm going to do it before work right now cheers to you I'm drinking coffee thank you very much appreciate it lifesaver
Those are fusible links and are meant to melt under a specific overload due to a short . The idea is to prevent a fire .
Be sure to replace a fusible link with another of the same specs.
Thanks Mark! You saved the day on my 93 Sierra!!!
Had the same issues and FINALLY found the ecm fuse under the dash. Its hidden quite well! Jumping the relay plug took it out.
do you have an indication where that fuse is under th dash? having the same problem i think
@@mathiesdewulf8076 Hey! Mine is on the drivers side under the steering wheel to the left. I knew the fuse panel was there but the TOP ROW is totally hidden that holds the 15 amp ecm fuse. Panel is about where your left knee is. I fried mine when I jumped the wrong post on the relay. Spent hundreds trying to fix this before i found that damn fuse lol. Good luck👍
@@DLM0826 thx for answering i wil have a look thx.
Donde se encuentra amigo ese fucible
Those are fusible links.
A fusible link acts much like a fuse, only it’s designed to handle a different type of potentially hazardous scenario. These links are actually strands of wire wrapped in a fireproof covering, and are thinner than the wiring harnesses they’re connected to. They are placed in-line between delicate harnesses and large sources of electrical current in your car-between the battery and alternator, for example. These links must transmit high-voltage electricity, but also protect the rest of the electrical system from dangerous spikes that could cause a fire. If there’s a surge, the link actually melts, as its resistance to heat is lower than that of the circuits it’s protecting. This cuts off power while protecting the engine bay from a conflagration, thanks to its fireproof wrapping.
Leon Black good info! I need to do a update on the video. My buddy told me that also. Thanks man
I used an inline fuse with 35a fuses but they constantly blow on me. Would a fusible link fix this issue?
Thank you solved a intermittent issue
helped out a lot. thanks
Thank you so much!!!
Cuando falle la bomba de gasolina, conecta un cable directo de la bateria (12volts) a la terminal G del ALDL y asi sabras si funciona o no.....saludos a todos.
Como amigo ?
I'm not sure what happened Out looking forward to talking to you I just couldn't figure out not knowing what you look like with which one of the mark bosjolie you are. I was really looking forward to talking to you I didn't make it very far with my truck today coz I had some other things I had to do I really have to get going by tomorrow evening. Thanks for the help. If you would get in touch with me It would make this tired old man very grateful.
what is the red wire that runs to the outher side for
I have to do the same thing .. my truck will sometimes start if not I will have to pop the hood and tap on the wires softly and vroom ..
Thank you
Just changed the fuel pump in my 95 1500. And still can’t get it to start. I’m hoping it’s just the relay now. I’ve already spent 120.00 on the dang fuel pump that i probably didn’t need.
I’m have trouble with where that red wire on junction box that converts to orange can u help me and tell me where it runs to thanks
Mark thank you for your video I do have a question for you though I'm experiencing the same issue or same type of issue on my 93 Chevy suburban and I was wondering before it started giving you the trouble how did it stop running was it all of a sudden as you was driving it or what is the case on thatI'm just trying to figure out which route I should go I've spent $150 and the last 3 days
that wire on my truck melts when the key is turned, not sure where the short is
There's a fuse on the fire wall was the problem after checking all the links so check it out as well
thanks
Thanks
I have a problem with my 1992 Caprice hope somebody can help me ..
The old fuel tank got defected , After I have changed the fuel tank now when cranking the car immediately the fuel pump fuse get defected !!!!!
What will be the reason ?
Hey man check the fuse color blue 15 amp could be that's the problem
Use a fusiable link when splicing the wires back together!
Deffintly
You might want to pin your comment so that this will be the first one people will see when doing this job. Thank you for the video.
Show me the wiring system to the fuel pump for a 2000 Chevy S10 4 cylinder fuel injected fuel injected 2200 two-door
Thank you man!! Been having intermittent crank, but no start issues in a ‘92 Silverado 350- This solved my issue!
Dude, I literally changed everything you can think of to the fuel pump, relays, fuses, distributor, coils, sensors, ground wiring, and all of the above. It was this exact wire from that fusible link to the orange wire🤞😅
Could this fix a bad fuel gauge mines always reads full.
No you need a new sending unit
I'm the same issue with my 91 should I start by changing out the fuel pump relay fuse?
omg is Michael j fox holding the camera lol
I'll check this on my 90 Silverado this weekend, and give an update.
what is your truck suffering from marc?? no power also?
Update
Sorry for the delay. I tracked it down to stupid fuel pump relay. Lol. My advice for everyone, is to start there. My old fuel pump is still good. So I fixed that, then tore the truck apart to lower it, put a trans in, redo the interior, and powder coat the wheels.
Ive done every thing my last option is the orange and grey cable besides infuse im tired as hell about it
@@Mikeys1316 I've had an intermittent no crank no start on my 1991 305 . Only happens occasionally & only when stone cold in the morning , once running it never quits & always starts when it's warm.
I suspect a bad ground & i did find a greenish bit of copper showing on a ground wire at the thermostat housing that has rubbed through.
Bad grounds are notorious on these trucks especially as they age.
First there's the ground strap from the battery to the block , then check the block to body & firewall.
Rubber body mounts electrically isolate the cab & box from the chassis/ frame.
Your computer / dash & switches all need a good ground.
On the passenger side of the engine youll see the main wiring harness enter the inside of the fender leading to the computer & other main relays right next to it.
Your fuel tank & sending unit needs a good ground as well.
I'm going to have to go through all of them soon as well.
Aside from bad grounds the pick up (magnetic ) coil can be bad, the distributor gear on the bottom of the distributor can & do get worn, the ignition control module chronically fail due to the heat. Be sure to use a thermal , heat conducting paste when you install a new one ! It is NOT dielectric grease as it must contain microscopic bits of aluminum , brass or other metal for the heat to be dispersed.
Sometimes you can try to clean the pad & re-apply fresh thermal grease/ paste but it's likely the hermetically sealed transistors on the board have already failed.
Buy AC Delco. You can get burned with chinese knock offs that don't work straight out of the box !
If you want to save money buy three Chinese ones & maybe one will be good may be two or all three will be bad !
These are just places to look as it could be a number of other things.
Lots of people put new IAC , TPS , EGR, modules on hoping its one of them & whatever else they can afford( or not!) to roll the dice on.
I intermittent problems can & usually are as a result of bad connections & grounds are a good place to start.
Don't cheap out on cap & rotor either. Brass contacts & especially the center button & SPRING are the way to go. Aluminum will last for a while but brand name quality is worth the extra dough, just as for the ICM module i just described.
Good luck !
mine runs but doesnt prime the tbi
NUCLEAR BUM did you ever find out what your problem was? Cause I’m having the same issue and it’s driving me crazy
Got power everywhere but the fuse, key on or off , I'm stuck, please help
Don Faulkner. Add me on face book we can talk through messenger. Mark Bosjolie
Don Faulkner. Check the wires coming from the pcm.
Don Faulkner run power to fuse momentary to see if it will power the pump. Than go from there.
Isn't that too much voltage?
Which one are you There are several Your name? Try me please Don L Faulkner
I just put new fuel pump in and not working
In my 92 gmc tip kick 7000
Anyway u can jump it
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