Triple-T #69 - How to finish knife handles
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- čas přidán 3. 06. 2024
- In today's Triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #69, I'll be showing my method to do the final finish on my knife handles.
Handle Material by Oleg Bashkevic: knife-wood.com
My Website: www.tyrellknifeworks.com
My Instagram: / tyrellknifeworks
My Patreon: / tyrellknifeworks
Abrasives by Brodbeck Ironworks: brodbeckironworks.com/
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![[柴犬ASMR]曼玉Manyu&小白Bai 毛发护理Spa asmr](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0TsXQ7z2Dh4/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for sharing. The nice thing with that method is the simple touch up at a later date. No involved stripping and multi layer process.
Yes, exactly. It’s easy and it looks amazing. Thanks for watching, James!
Beautiful handle! Thanks for posting.
Thanks for watching, Willian!
Thanks for the tips. Beautiful handle.
I'm glad the tips were helpful, thanks for watching, Stephen!
You sir are amazing. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for watching!
I love it. You and I just talked about this on the patreon. Glad I got the scoop before the video! Great content!
That's one of the reasons I did this video, Adam! Thanks for watching!
Simple but nice result !
Yup, it’s so easy but it looks great! Thanks for watching!
Looks great, I have to try that. Only ever used oil or CA glue so far. Thanks for sharing 👌🏻
I’m glad it was helpful, Sven! Thanks for watching!
That is one awsome looking knife handle Sir.
Stay tuned this Sunday for the full build video on this one! Thanks for watching, Louis!
Thanks for the video I'm getting ready to go my first hidden tang knife and I'm going to be using iron wood. Great info 👍
I have a love-hate relationship with ironwood. It’s sooo oily it gums up belts like crazy. It does look good though. Thanks for watching, Richard
Wow I have been using the Mothers Carnuba wax ! It has worked good for me too!!
It's cheap and works great. No need to spend the $$$ on the "special" wax in my opinion. Thanks for watching
Love the carnuba wax for my bushcraft, hunting or edc knives. It definitely gives an awesome finish.
Yup, I like the outcome as well. Its not too sticky and shines up nice (but not too glossy). Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks very welcome and I always enjoy watching your videos.
very nice
Thanks for taking a look, Don.
Wow amazing handle like a grey tiger stripe grain 😍
Yeah, this is another product from Oleg Bashkevic (link to his website in the video description). He has the best handle material I've ever used! Thanks for watching, Robert!
Thabks for the info again! Love these triple T's. Thats exactly the information i needed right now, its like were sychronized lol not the firat time those videos come right when i need them!
I’m happy you find them useful and entertaining, Gil! Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks also waiting for the 100k subs giveaway..
Been a follower since the beggining and youre so close!!
@@gilsalomon3439 I'm working on that knife today in the shop! It just needs a handle. I'm really happy how its turning out! 😮😁
@@TyrellKnifeworks cant wait to see it! Might even own it🤣💪🏿
That's pretty cool. I've been wondering what kind of waxes people use on knife handles, but I never would of thought of auto body wax. That's good to know. Thanks 👍
I’m glad it was helpful, Isaac! Thanks for watching
Great craftsmanship, although I have been following your channel for a while I didn’t pick up on what material is that handle its fantastic, I make a lot of puukko’s and am thinking of the next handle 👍🏻🗡
Yeah, this is another product from Oleg Bashkevic (link to his website in the video description). He has the best handle material I've ever used! This particular one is an Ash burl. (tell him I sent you!). Thanks for watching!
I use wood for 99% of my handles, 2 coats of Zinser's shellac followed by 3 coat of Minwax antique oil with a hand buff with 0000 steel wool between coats. Gives a great shine and is pretty liquid resistant. Although really oily dense woods usually only get the shellac because oil finishes don't dry on them.
It depends on how "glossy" you like your handles. I don't particularly like them too glossy so I stay away from the shellac and oils myself. Some love that look though. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Just buff a little harder with the steel wool and knock down the gloss, keeps the smooth though. Thanks again.
I found that mothers aluminum polish it’s a white paste gives a beautiful luster to stabilized handle
Sounds similar to white compound on a buffer. Thanks for watching!
Great information, is this advice true with stabilized natural material?
This was stabilized wood I was using. The advice works for natural wood and syntheics as well. I do the same process for all. Thanks for watching, Greg
Woody wax and breewax are a great and inexpensive alternative to axe wax. But looks like you’re having great results with the wax you’re using.👌🏻
I've heard good things about the Woody Wax from the Hustle & Grind guys. I haven't tried it. The other stuff is a fraction of the price still so I'll probably keep using that. Thanks for watching, Spencer!
Tyrell Knifeworks, you ever watch Freerk Wieringa's channel? He makes swords and bowies mostly. I really love his bowie knives.
Yes, I've watched Freerk's channel before. He doesn't talk in his videos and I personally prefer to relate and connect with the creator so I don't watch it as much as others. I know some people hate the voice overs, so to each their own I guess. He's certainly a great bladesmith, no doubt about that! Thanks for watching, Christopher.
That's is the best way imo too... I was a contractor carpenter for twenty years with extensive painting experience and oil finishes are very specific for the materials and not the best for knife handles... Johnson paste wax is good too as it really soaks in and penetrates better than carnuba, but pure carnuba is the best but harder to find...
Thanks for watching, Kevin!
Thanks for the awesome tips on this! Also, where can someone get a mokume gane blank for knife making? Ebay was a bit disappointing. But your work has me looking hard!
You can buy Mokume on sites like Jantz Supply. I have a video on how to make your own by forging US quarters together, check that out. Thanks for watching!
Emeğinize sağlık...👏
İzlediğiniz için teşekkürler!
Sorry I couldn't catch what type of buffing compound you were using for wood/handle. Could you please let me know. Thank you.
This is just white buffing compound that I generally use for buffing handles. Thanks for watching, Kevin.
For some reason, when I buff it results in a dull finish. This has been driving me absolutely bananas. Have tried various grits of compound, various wheels, all comes out basically the same.
What material are you starting with? If it’s plain unstabilized wood, it won’t shine quite as much as stabilized wood. Hit it with wax at the end and polish it then a bit of mineral oil at the very end. If you’re looking for the glossy finish, this won’t give you that. You need oil or CA glue if you want it shiny/glossy.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks! I use mostly stabilized wood. Just can't seem to get the shine. I'll try this
Just out of curiosity, what is your opinion of tru-oil? Was designed for gun stocks but i have heard of a lot of people using it on knife handles. Supposedly it is a lot quicker and gives a very shiny finish. I am going to use it on a fillet and small Bowie knife. Not quite done with them yet.
I’ve never used it personally, but I’m not really a fan of the super shiny finish. I prefer the matte/satin finish that is polished but not shiny. Thanks for watching.
what a great job!!! It is really fascinating to see how delicate the process is to polish the mangoes. I want to change the handle of my knife but I'm in doubt. Would it help me just put pure beeswax on it and then polish? will it be used to shine?
Buffing it will help, then apply a coat of wax.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you very much for answering 👍
Any tips on removing the buffing compound from the open wood pores before waxing? Especially when using a non-stabilized wood with a slightly more coarse open grain like padauk this always seems to give me trouble.
For unstabilized wood, particularly for large pores like Pauduk (which I love), I recommend a CA glue finish. Cover the whole handle with it, then sand back to raw wood with 800 grit or higher. That fills all the pores but you still have the wood finish everywhere else. You can see my process for the CA glue finish in the Elvish sword video. Then you do the buffing and waxing. It turns out super smooth and really nice. Thanks for watching!
CA glue can also make a surprisingly good finish on it's own without applying wax, it isn't necessarily easier because you generally want to apply at least 4 or 5 layers sanding down any bumps or imperfections with 2000 grit sandpaper before each new layer. Buffing a CA finish will give you an extremely glossy appearance.
@@garethbaus5471 I'm not personally a fan of the high gloss finish with just CA glue, it comes out too shiny for me, that's why I sand it back to wood and just use it to fill pores/voids. Some people love the gloss look though and if you do, it's great for that.
Hey so I used deer antler for a knife handle I sanded it with 300, 600, and 1000 grit and what else should I do with the handle
Hmm, that's one item I haven't (yet) used. I have some sambar stag crowns I purchased but haven't used them yet so I'm not the one to give you advice on finishing them, sorry. Thanks for watching though, Angelo.
What a knife looks like after a happy ending 😳😅😁
🤣🤣. Thanks for watching
I know sanding/buffing works really well for stabilized wood. Have you done it with non-stabalized wood? Does it work just as well?
Yup, it works just as well so long as you sand to a high grit first. Do be careful if its a light colored wood though, it will darken it unless you use a brand new wheel. Thanks for watching, Christopher!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for the reply!
That handle sure has a beautiful grain. Wish you would have shown the whole knife !!! But guess you didn't want to show off your beautiful work until it is judged LOL Keep up these great videos.
You’ll see the full build video this Sunday! Thanks for watching, Debra!
What can you do if you don't have a buffing wheel? Can you just sand it and use the wax? Thank you for sharing!
Yeah you could just sand and wax it. Though you can get buffing wheels for your drill press if you don’t have/want a buffer. It’s a necessary tool I believe. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thank you for the response!!
Thanks for the subtitles in Russian))
Я рада, что они полезны! Спасибо за просмотр!
Beewax with camelia oil or linseed oil can be good?
I'm not that much into the Linseed oil or other oils on handles. Wax yes. I prefer sanding to 1000 grit and buffing with white compound and then maybe some way and mineral oil. Thanks for watching.
It obviously isn't always a good choice, but I often get good results with cyanoacrylate, especially if I am using a handle material with a lot of cracks or porosity.
Yup, I certainly use CA glue for those applications. The sword I recently did got a CA glue coating due to cracks in the material. I don't like the glossy finish so I sand it down to wood so it just fills the cracks/voids. Works well though. Thanks for watching, Gareth.
what compound do you use?
When I'm buffing handles I use white compound. Thanks for watching.
Is that just a standard bench mount buffer?
Yes, it’s just a cheap buffer. Thanks for watching
That's a beautiful handle! What is the name of it?
The wood is an ash burl from Oleg (link in the video desc). Thanks for watching, Jeff!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks Denis!
Tyrell where can I buy your knives??? Thanks
I live in France and I looked on the internet but I haven't seen your knives?!?!
My builds go on sale to my Patreon members first and to the public a week later via my website if not sold. I won’t have much for the next few months though since it’ll be for my journeyman test.
@@TyrellKnifeworks
Ok, thank you for your answer Tyrell 🙏🙏🙏😎
Do you have any other/different processes for finishing handles?
I've noticed that buffing machine speeding too fast for epoxy handles- the friction is too high and the epoxy melts. It's better to use drill on low speed. Did you ever tried car polish paste- works great in my opinion. Great episode! As always :)!
@@DBCraftWorld I have a pretty low speed buffer, for several reasons, 1) for the reason you said, more importantly, 2) it’s a really dangerous machine. 😜
@@TyrellKnifeworks hmm.. I didn't even know that buffers have different speed lol. Dangerous? hmm.. If you are using stone disk -they are. In case of polishing there is nothing to really worry about.. I think... 36 Grit belt can hurt you much more. Correct me if I'm wrong- If there is any dangerous I'll be much more careful.
@@DBCraftWorld A high speed buffer can be one of the most dangerous tools in the workshop. They can be very "grabby" and send workpieces flying at high speeds. Lots of reports of people being injured by them. Don't underestimate their potential for harm.
Do you ever CA and if you do when.
Sure, Rick, I use CA glue when I have any voids in the handle material or if the wood has big pores. I show this in the Elvish sword video. Thanks for watching.
Can I use car was on blade also?
Sure, I use carnuba wax that's meant for cars. Note, its not considered food safe so you probably don't want to use it on kitchen knives. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I will be using only for wall handling blades. Thank you
I just looked for Mothers Carnauba Wax and they are all $20. or more. Where do you get it for 7.99 ???
This was a while ago, maybe prices have skyrocketted. Doing a quick search, the cheapest I see it now is around $14 for an 11oz container.
@@TyrellKnifeworks A year ago or so and price has more than doubled. We can thank Biden and the corrupt idiot Democrats for this massive inflation on everything.
I Directly apply a transparent wooden paint . Is it ok?
I stay away from paints and oils personally. Lacquers are ok on scabbards but tend to wear off on handles. I like them buffed and waxed. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks can I use polyurethane instead, it tends to be good but a bit confsed'
@@maxgeorge5376 I do not recommend any polyurethane product for knife handles.
for g10 i hand sand to 1500 grit and then wipe down with a paper towel with water and that brings out the color
Try the wax, it will bring out the color even more. Even more so with mineral oil. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks ok thanks for the tip
Don't you get buffing compound clogged in the pores? White buffing compound on dark wood, don you see the compound anywhere in the wood?
Nope. It's not visible at all. Thanks for watching.
The main problem I face is, how durable is this finish on a working knife.
It’s what I do on all my “working” knives. It’s really the best finish IMO. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks cheers for that
Food safe, are you chewing the handle🤔
Some guys think that's important... (you can tell I don't). Thanks for watching, Graham!
Mine keeps turning out cloudy even though i took it past 2000 g
Have you buffed it after? I use white buffing compound after sanding and it shines after that. Thanks for watching.
@TyrellKnifeworks I got the pink compound from combat abrasive. It never shines just gets cloudy
@@aarronroberts811 try something else. I use white compound and then a buffing wheel with no compound to shine it.
Excellent, covered the important concepts with a lot of blah blah blah
Thanks for watching, Mike!