PYS Boat Electrical Audit aboard S/Y Corra Jane: Breaker Panel

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  • čas přidán 2. 03. 2017
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    Jeff Cote is a systems design expert and owner of Pacific Yacht Systems, a full service shop delivering marine electrical and navigation solutions for recreational boats. Visit the PYS website and blog for info and articles on marine electrical systems, projects and testimonials.
    Website: www.pysystems.ca
    Facebook: / pacificyachtsystems
    Instagram: / pacificyachtsystems
    Twitter: / pysystems
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Komentáře • 25

  • @benjibumble
    @benjibumble Před 6 lety +6

    I learn at least one or two things from each of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to put these out!!

  • @Trump985
    @Trump985 Před 3 měsíci

    Well what about 3 phase AC circuits on boats? Red Black and Blue have always been the standard colors of the hot phases both on boats and on land? Even singe phase 240 circuits typically run a black and a red as the hot legs both on boats and land. I’ve never had any problems with running normal red black blue and white wiring or cable when it comes to CG inspections on inspected vessels?

  • @sparkyobrian6417
    @sparkyobrian6417 Před 2 lety

    coming from the airline industry as an avionics tech... when you dropped the panel, omfg what a rats nest of crapola, scary. great video

  • @palletizedartworks4379

    Your videos are fantastic! Is there any chance I could get a copy of that audit sheet to check my boat and see how bad it is?

  • @sailrockpaperscissors8261

    Hi Great video do you have the link to the work you did on this Panel , know i have seen it before but cant find it , thanks in advance Jeff

  • @ChrisJones-wl3dg
    @ChrisJones-wl3dg Před 2 lety

    This video was super informative. Thank you. 1.) What would you recommend for a protective cover to retro install to the backside of the AC breakers for protection on a panel like this? 2.) You mentioned a rule of thumb for nuisance sizing breakers but what’s the rule of thumb for sizing wire vs max device load?

  • @scottdowney4318
    @scottdowney4318 Před 2 lety

    Yes, dont like red for AC hot wires, should be black. Which is why yellow is used for DC negative now. My 1970 boat, the AC uses a Square D QO distribution panel, totally seperate far away from the DC area. I kept the AC panel and replaced all branch breakers (except for 2) with GFCI-AFCI combo breakers several years ago. My AC system is very tight, no leaks, I can plug entire boat into a GFCI extension and it will not trip the power. I run the cruisair heat pump on GFCI-AFCI. Only thing I left on standard breaker was the fridge, never want it nuisance tripping off. I feed my boat with twin 30 amp shore power, running to twin 30 amp 2 pole GE breakers, then on to the square D panel. It gets more complex, as I have an Onan genset, so I also created my own automatic controlled gen-shore-inverter power selector box, using 2 four pole 35 amp relays, since you have to switch both hot and neutral at same time. I can turn things off and on regarding shore power by a couple of small toggle switches at the helm. They had to be 4 pole relays since I have to switch twin 30 amp power sources.
    Using 2 four pole relays, you can have 3 sources of power, twin 30 shore cords, one gen set, one inverter, and switch the boat AC system to whatever one you want. Control the relays with a standard toggle switch. One relay cascades into the next. If you only used 1 relay, you could only switch 2 power sources, each additional relay cascading into the next allows for another power source to be used. Since you only need 3 sources of power, all you need is two relays.

  • @redwood1957
    @redwood1957 Před 6 lety

    how do you decide what type wire to run. Meaning single conductors red and yellow as to running a conductor in a white covering? Is it required to put the single conductors in the flex tube?

    • @PysystemsCa
      @PysystemsCa Před 6 lety

      Assuming you have the space to run a duplex cable with red and yellow DC conductors, I’d run a duplex. Often, space is at a premium or the negative and positive aren’t going back to the same place at the panel, therefore a single red or yellow is used. Always take all measures to prevent chafe on a boat.

  • @hogesx
    @hogesx Před 2 lety

    Thanks for the video, great info. But I don’t understand how you terminate the DC wires on a terminal strip and then have have a seperate breaker panel…. Can you provide a drawing or show an example of a correct 12v panel.
    Thanks 😊

    • @PacificYachtSystems
      @PacificYachtSystems  Před 2 lety +2

      Hi John, imagine the terminal strip as a replacement for a butt connector. For instance, if the wiring to your circuit breaker was too short from the load, you might be tempted to extend the wire with a butt connector. Instead of extending the wire using a butt connector, you might also join the two wires with a terminal strip.

  • @waltw1088
    @waltw1088 Před 2 lety

    Jeff do you use terminal blocks for the AC side, do they come with protective covers.

    • @PacificYachtSystems
      @PacificYachtSystems  Před 2 lety +1

      Yep, you should definitely get protective covers for any AC connections on a terminal block.

  • @luisgcasiquet
    @luisgcasiquet Před 2 lety

    Hi Jeff. I think this might be a common problem/choice to make by owners: The original cable from engine harness that comes to the gauges console was modified to replace its original 16 pins conector to a spade conector for each wire and from them to their respective gauges. I am tempted to use a strip connector to make that conection but i see nowhere to attach that strip connector because original harness is not that long and leave it in mid air it does not look wise. I have been considering to make wires longer by soldering a pigtail or other mean acceptable. Please share your thoughts in a situation like mine. Thanks!!!

    • @PacificYachtSystems
      @PacificYachtSystems  Před 2 lety +1

      Hi Luis, had a similar challenge on my boat, in the end decided to cut and terminate the engine harness cable near the engine and since the engine harness cabling wasn't long enough, instead of extending the wires, decided to run new wires from terminal strip to engine.

    • @luisgcasiquet
      @luisgcasiquet Před 2 lety

      @@PacificYachtSystems So basically your new wires became a new harness?

  • @chhindz
    @chhindz Před rokem

    Informative video, but if your wiring looks like a banyan tree you have no worries? I would not be comfortable with those exposed AC wires

  • @jamesrankin4232
    @jamesrankin4232 Před 5 lety +2

    Never assume cable colours, especially on boats. boats are made all over the world and different countries have different cable designations, I balked when you said yellow for ground.

    • @PacificYachtSystems
      @PacificYachtSystems  Před 5 lety

      Hi James, your right about color codes varying. Notwithstanding, you should always follow the wire color code of your jurisdiction when doing electrical wiring.

  • @andreasmeintanis5402
    @andreasmeintanis5402 Před 4 lety

    Hi Jeff I want to send you a piece of my work I'm self educated my English are very bad but they are very special

  • @karlheinzmrazek830
    @karlheinzmrazek830 Před 2 lety

    caught in old patterns and ideas. Time closes the old thoughts, you have to be open to the new technology.