Introducing the Non-Jamming JRB Ascender Hitch Variant
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 08. 2024
- The JRB Ascender Hitch can be tied in a non-jamming configuration, in a single, universal tying method that allows us to us it with one load loop, two load loops (soft bridge mode) or a compact variant. Have you ever watched a two-prussik rope climb? It's a painful ordeal, and there is no possibility to rappel on the friction hitch, because friction hitches typically jam/bind on rappel. With the Non-Jamming JRB Ascender Hitch, not only is a rappel possible on the friction hitch, the hitch is not left in a jammed state.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/
www.apecanyon.com/ Use JRB15 coupon code for 15% off!
www.rocknarbor.com/ Use JRB10 coupon code for 10% off!
/ jrbtree (Facebook Private Group)
/ jrbtreeclimbing (Facebook Public Page)
/ jrbtreeclimbing (Patreon support is appreciated)
DISCLAIMER: Viewers assume responsibility for their own safety. This video is provided for demonstrational and informational purposes only, and is not considered advice nor instruction. Climbing and related knot tying activities are dangerous and should be performed only with appropriate training, supervision and protective equipment. The author disclaims responsibility for the clarity, comprehensiveness and accuracy of the content, as well as all liability for accidents or injuries incurred. - JRB Tree Climbing LLC
#jrbtreeclimbing #treeclimbing #saddlehunting #arborist #climbing #knots #srt #ropeclimbing #deerhunting #deer - Věda a technologie
John, converted my standard jrb ascenders to the non jamming variant, 5-2-3, it did take me a while to get them right and tight, but on my climb this morning they performed beautifully, easy to slide up but grabbed tight on the ascent and glided down the ropes without jamming but did cinch down when I tested them on the rappel, thanks for sharing this wonderful method
Wow John! Thanks so much. Been working on you’re climbing system this summer and have been running into some jamming issues on a standard 5-2-3. Not anymore! Many test tying sessions, then climbs to come with this new variant. You’ve brought me a lot of joy and a stronger feeling of safety hunting out of a tree. My best hunting buddy had a fall last season , and a coworker lost a spouse the year before that. These things caused me to search and search for safer alternatives. I landed on using a saddle to increase safety. But I was still climbing on sticks. And those sticks are DANGEROUS! I feel so much safer having fewer failure opportunities now that I’m on your system. Thank you!
I'm sorry to hear about the accidents in the past, and have heard about my share of the same. As a team, we need to learn from those mistakes and that's what this system and my sharing it is all about. For about 12 years, I was just doing my own thing and happy with that. But then I realized that I could probably save some bones. And the motivation of an audience has accelerated my pace. So thank you very much for your comment and support
What I've learned since following you is to not jump on every advancement you bring to us, but let them marinate with you and you improve. To me, this seems to be the most sensible JRB knot with a built in handle. And just as I finished typing, you mention the handle.
I was doing this kind of stuff 12 years before I had a channel. I just never realized how much I would enjoy sharing and how motivating it can be to have a captive audience, like yourself. Maybe even "friends". Cheers and thanks!
Ok have done several climbs with the non jamming 5-2-3, works great! eliminated my rings for handles and also carabiner connection from bridge to hitches, just run my web bridge through the loops , now ascending is so smooth, love these non jam hitch variant!!
With no metal in your setup, when you rotate your weight left and right, your web bridge will move inside the hitch loops causing friction and wear on both. I can't recommend that for most climbing scenarios, particularly hunting.
@@jrbtc will keep an eye on that but I try to keep still so the deer won’t spot me, oh and usually I will throw a redirect , a length of rope with a jrb cinch setup for a tether with two 5-2-3 hitches on it , hook up my redundant bridge with a carabiner, and release my main bridge, (just slide down the hitches actually so I have them attached for backup,)to get in best position for the hunt , will generally use the bottom hitch for the bridge and the upper hitch for my weapon so nice to be able to make adjustments quietly and effortlessly. And throw another tether with jrb cinch below me to hold my pack. But thank you for the advice . Before, Often when ascending with a carabiner connecting the hitches to my bridge , as I would make the double shove, the loops would catch on the carabiner lock mechanism and give me a little problem , now without any metal the climb is so smooth, quiet, and safe. Another thing I’ve been doing that I like a lot is using a footboard as my platform attached to a tether rope, again the jrb cinch, with a couple of hitches 5-2-3 , allows me to adjust the footboard easily and so easy to hang on the tree , always thinking of tweaking the system for improvement. Again thank you for sharing your wealth of knowledge as your tutelage has progressed my capabilities of safe climbing and getting in to new areas for hunting tremendously.
Excellent, thanks for all you share mate.
My pleasure.
Wow! That’s a serious knot system.
The JRB Ascender Hitch has a dedicated PLAYLIST, where this was the first video, and so you can watch the evolution.
Please take this as a joke but your killing me with all your knot tieing greatness. Keep up the good work. I'm going to need more rope.
I don't deserve those kind of words, but it's appreciated. There's more in the pipeline.
Not making a comparison, just pointing out that a Valdotain Tresse prusik knot is able to be used (in an emergency) for rappelling.
Also, making asymmetrical prusik knots from an eye to eye cord makes for easy climbing advancement.
I like your spirit of experimentation though.
Thank you, appreciate the input. I have experimented with VT and XT, but never tried an emergency rappel. Good to know. As for using an eye to eye, I don't recommend it for the JRB Ascender Hitch, only because its difficult to tie it such that the strands are evenly balanced, and even when they look about right, but the load is imbalanced, it affects performance. A bend ensures even loading. This particular variant places the bend inside the hitch and also serves as a jamming prevention device and allows it to be ultra compact. We could create a "hitch climber DRT system" and not need a pulley.
Pretty sure I have canyon c-Iv 9.0 mm.. would you say the sterling Trc 6mm would be a safe and reliable option for the assender and adjustable bridge or do you recommend something else.. my knowledge on the subject is next to none so would like your opinion.. thanks
I prefer the 7mm standard nylon Sterling cord. TRC works on the hitches, a little stiffer to move, but not my choice for the Bridge. My bridge design can be 8mm too, but I went with 7.
Which is more secure? The Zeppelin's or Hunter's Bend? My constant salute...
Great question, and it's one I have studied a lot. Security and strength are both important, but they are different. I have not pull tested them to a failure but have researched it to conclude that Zeppelin is supposedly stronger than Hunter's. However, both are very strong. The main difference is that after an extreme load, Zeppelin is easier to untie, whereby Hunter's might need to be cut. However, at reasonable loads, such as those we generate with our body in rope climbing, Hunter's is perfectly easy to untie. And when it comes to stability, Hunter's is better than Zeppelin... we can set it well with just a strong pull on each of the 4 strands. But when we set the Zeppelin the same way, it's still fairly unstable and could come undone with enough jostling. In conclusion, I prefer Hunter's for climbing, and I prefer Zeppelin for lifting heavy loads, such as arborist rigging applications.
I am gone change my friction hitches again on my JRB climbing system. This seems perfect.👍
Thanks and stay tuned for follow-up as i get feedback.
Interesting, nice innovation to to be able to switch from soft bridge to bridge mode so easily, but I really like using a small brass ring as a toggle with bridge mode. Nice and slick, wondering if this one will hang in a crotch looks a bit bulky with the two overhand knots.
Of course, that's a working solution, so keep using it if its your preference. And this one is more bulky, but 6mm on 8mm should still pass through almost any crotch.
@@jrbtc finally dawned on me why I was having such a problem with the self tending neck strap, I had the tended ascender hitches on a bridge together, instead of on the saddle bridge loops, (actually I have D rings at each side of my saddle for bridge connections) so now I have carabiners at each side for the tended hitches and it works nice, might try the compact variant for the tended hitches, but I like you subtle tip of nesting the upper and lower hitches together on rappelling, on descent with the munter, I disconnect the self tended hitches and put them on my upper bridge with the top hitches, just took me several climbs to work out the adjustments , lentth of bridges, length of best friend, length of hunter bends,
How often do you retye your ascender hitches?
I don't count the number of climbs and so i can't give a precise answer. If you do not put a load on them in rappel (which is how i climb), they will last a long time. You can work a little slack in from the bottom up into the top helix and peel it away from the rope to get an idea how much wear is on it. All I can say is to use your judgment and are on the side of untying and inspecting more frequently than you need to than less. And of course, if the hitchcord is showing excessive signs of where, replace them in accordance with manufacturer recommendations. We can't be too safe and cord is pretty cheap .
Do you tie this in the dark? I just tied it and can't fathom doing that.
There is no need to tie any friction hitches at the climbing location, whether I am climbing MRS/DRT, SRT or JRB. See video demonstration. The system has the hitches tied and tested in advance and we only need to untie them when we want to inspect or rotate or replace the cords.
czcams.com/video/vkrPf_5bwAk/video.html
This works great and with this and the garda foot loop, my fat butt can get in the top of a tree. This morning I tried a double rope and hip thrusting. Forget it. I anchored one end of the rope and went and got my garda foot loop.If you can climb a step ladder you can get up a tree this way.
Great. Be aware that a basal anchor puts double the load on the tree crotch as a canopy anchor. I only use a basal anchor when there's branches between the strands and i am certain the crotch is strong enough.
noted. Also, I was working with the Agile and Longhorn Agile in RAD SRT this mornng just experimenting because it seemed so cool to watch you do that on the video. I was struggling to brake the longhorn on descent. When I got down I had an idea to see how well the JRBascender auto tends. It auto tends well and progress captures just as well in RAD SRT. I was using a micro pully with a jrb ascender on top and on bottom. I was making progress and was able to descend with no problem. I'm 275lb on 11mm rope and I tie my hitches in 9mm. So, it may only be applicable to heavier climbers but try the JRB Ascender auto tend properties in RAD SRT and let me know what you think. And if you've already covered that apologies I haven't watched every video . @@jrbtc
I was gonna ask, based on your experience are white oaks known for strong crotches?@@jrbtc
@@simplyphi144 yes, white oaks are not only strong but also provide a good natural shape. In contrast, the native Locust trees in my woods are super strong but the crotches are a tight V shape and a rope will often get stuck in it.
@@simplyphi144 As of the current time, I have not done a lot of RADS SRT on just friction hitches. The reason for that is because for me at my body weight and strength profile, a 1:1 SRT is plenty easy and 3x faster. If you're a bigger climber, you might want to consider 8mm cords on 11mm ropes. Everything is easier to move and break. If ya have questions or photos or video clips, pls post em in the JRB Tree Climbing Facebook group. It's hard to make an educated guess at what you are experiencing without seeing it. Be safe.
😎👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Use coupon code JRB10 for 10% off purchases at www.rocknarbor.com/