Compact JRB Ascender Hitch, version 1
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- čas přidán 4. 08. 2024
- Note: although it works, this version has been replaced by two newer versions:
1. The Compact, non-jamming variant: • Tying the Compact, Non...
2. Compact JRB Ascender Hitch, Version 3: • Tying the Compact JRB ...
The JRB Ascender Hitch is a Friction Hitch devised by JRB, and this video describes the "Compact" variant, constructed to consume a minimal amount of space on the rope and provide unparalleled one-hand operation, including removal of slack and ability to break under load. "Version 1", simply acknowledges that we may introduce other compact variants in the future. This hitch was designed for saddle hunting and saddle hunters but is useful in many rope climbing applications including mountain climbing, rock climbing, caving, rigging and rescue.
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DISCLAIMER: Viewers assume responsibility for their own safety. This video is provided for demonstrational and informational purposes only, and is not considered advice nor instruction. Climbing and related knot tying activities are dangerous and should be performed only with appropriate training, supervision and protective equipment. The author disclaims responsibility for the clarity, comprehensiveness and accuracy of the content, as well as all liability for accidents or injuries incurred. - JRB Tree Climbing LLC
#jrbtreeclimbing #treeclimbing #saddlehunting #arborist #climbing #knots #srt #ropeclimbing #deerhunting #deer - Jak na to + styl
very good knots
I’ve Hunted since I was 12, I’m 62 now and Just Retired last year August 22nd. 2021 😎😎😎 I like the idea on what you’ve achieved with making this a Quite Setup for Archery Hunting🦌 This JRB Hunters Hitch is Spot On!!! Thank You👍🏼
U got a few years on me, but we have the same hobby and I am glad i can help enjoy it and stay safe. I am also jealous that you have more time to hunt than me!
Thanks JRB! I'm a journeyman knot tier. You do an excellent job of explaining and demonstrating your innovation. Congrats!
Just tied the JRB compact variant on my lineman/tether, replacing the Prusik knot. What a difference! Works great! One hand self tending! (Originally posted this on a different video, this is the actual variant I used of the 5-2-3)
I find that if I start with a loose loop (tree gets small usually as you go up) and actually put the pole hook in the rappel ring I can work the rope up the tree better without the loop getting bigger and sloppier as I work the rope up, get a little slack out at the top, catch on the tree, remove the pole hook, put it back in the carbariner to push up a bit more , and pull tight, seems that I lose less height in this manner, but still working on using my pole. I’m encouraged with the cinch and pole to develop a good system of adapting to whatever situation I walk into chasing the BIG BUCK
This is fantastic! Used this today to climb; then switched it to backup to my figure 8, for decent. It was flawless
Excellent!
very good knotting
What would be a good easy hitch to use in a one stick application where I am removing and retying each climb. Looking for something easy to move up and down but also easy to remember and apply. Thanks. Great videos.
1. Look up the video called Tying the Longhorn Agile Hitch, which is formed using a Longhorn Hitch/Loop. Here is a link showing how easy I can tie it and climb. 2. I will soon be releasing a new hitch, which is even easier to put on the line, but it doesn't have the auto tending feature.
czcams.com/users/shorts4vZWCDcNYCY?si=TzKkafxWDZif2IS1
It’s amazing how u can find out u missed a video in a playlist. Dang it. I’m looking for the one I watched about climbing with a 5-2-3 with rappel ring in it on footloop
This one?
czcams.com/video/8njfMqhCiqM/video.htmlsi=FZR3AtKXV_eAr8mj
Cool , I’ve been practicing with the original ascender hitch in bridge mode and with self tending hitches in soft bridge directly on my bridge d rings, which this compact version might be of good use on the those d rings and seems great for a lineman’s rope, but I can see needing the long loops of the original hitch on the top redundant hitches when bypassing a limb, so I’m thinking I’ll keep my longer loops up top to get over limbs, thanks for the variation
John - why did you developers a v2 of this hitch? I prefer this one because the closer knot is in the descending portion of the coils - it seems more secure and the hunters bend also seems more secure
Nicholas, not surprisingly, when published this video, named version 1, I already had some other variations but had not yet fully tested them. This one has some jam resistance, but not as much as the non jamming (NJ) variation. I believe tying the hunters bend in this variation is a little bit more tricky than the flat overhand in the NJ. Also, the presence of the bend on the descending strand can affect how the top of the helix binds. I find it slightly less reliable, where sometimes it doesn't grab after moving, particularly if the bend is too close to the top of the helix. Lastly, when hitch climbing, we sometimes have the hitch very close to the trunk, possibly touching it and when we go to advance it, with the NJ, i can use the tails and backup stopper knot as a handle, used to advance the hitch. No need to put my fingers between the trunk and the rope. However, in it's defense, I still have one of my hitch climbing systems rigged with this version though and with it properly tuned, it works great. It's likely to be more stable overall in that the hunters bend is more stable than the flat overhand which I felt needed a backup. Bottom line is that they are both viable and it comes down to preference. Where are you using yours?
@@jrbtc thanks for the fast and thorough response. I have this knot tied with 6mm sterling facing opposite directions on both ends of 8mm res tech. I advance running jrb hitches with a pole and alternate hitches at the ends of the red tech to stay tied in as the rope is advanced up the tree. I’ll tie the v2 and compare. I did notice that I tie the bend very close to the top coil. I may attempt to lower the location of the hunter’s bend to experiment with the effect. On another rope, I am using the v2 compact nj knot tied with 6mm sterling on 9mm canyon elite . On that rope I also have the v2 nj knot on foot straps. The upper knot will jamb under load. I have to use the foot strap to remove the load and break the knot. I attribute that to having 6mm on 9mm.
@@nicholasmarinelli4575 Kudos to you on always being tied in. Also, pls be aware that Sterling doesn't recommend anything less than their 7mm cord for life safety applications. On a doubled rope system it would only see half our weight and so I have convinced myself its ok in those applications. But yours is a single rope application. 7mm Sterling works great on 9mm ropes and surprisingly well on 8mm ropes as well. It's also easier to break under load and stretches less. Pls consider grabbing a package and doing some comparisons. And of course ya got the JRB10 discount code at RockNArbor.
You possibly could limb walk with that configuration.
Most Arbs I have discussed it with prefer MRS for limb walking. Ya have better control because the friction hitch has half your load. Even SRT climbers will often switch from SRT to MRS in the canopy. This is where I believe the JRB doubled rope climbing system has potential application, and this friction hitch on the system. Because as soon as we remove the Garda footloop, it becomes a moving rope system and either side can be the moving side.
Witchcraft!! Haha. Love your vids. I have learned so much from them. One day I will work my way up to this. Keep em coming please. 👍
So how long of rope do you need? Thinking of tying this with 6mm TRC
See tables on this page:
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/length-specs/
@@jrbtc thanks John
hello! I'd like to know what exactly makes that knot ( all versions) better than Catalyst, Vt, Michoacán, Distel ... ? thanks!
Congrats for your work 👏👏
Its pretty simple for anyone to put a rope in a tree and put a friction hitch in it, clip into it for non mechanical SRT and verify:
1. After loading with our body, when we step up on our footloop, this is easier to break and move up. But some are very similar.
2. But nothing is as easy to break under load. Try it. Its amazing.
3. As demonstrated in this variation, when its not loaded, i can pull on the rope under it and the friction hitch is moved upwards. Its self tending. You can't do that with any of the ones you mentioned.
4. It can be configured with a handle as a hand ascender.
5. I can rig it with one or two loops at the bottom. So i can rig up a hitch climber pulley MRS system without an eye to eye or knots on the beaner. Make sure u have watched the earlier vids on the playlist.
czcams.com/play/PLETL-PceEXkYzZVteVwc0REz37uDr7-_C.html
Hey John, when tying this compact version I’m confused how I tie in my rings. I bought the rings based on your list and them being more compact then carabiners.
The compact version wasn't intended to be used with a handle. It's for a tether or a footloop where we wanna minimize the overall size. I'm not saying that you couldn't put a handle in there, but generally speaking, I would always want a longer a loop on the and for a climbing apparatus and that is when I use a handle. This video explains how to tie the 523 with a handle including a ring.
czcams.com/video/Ju7wJM_uxtw/video.html
@@jrbtc gotcha! That makes sense and I appreciate you clarifying. I am setting up my JRB climbing system so I was trying to tie the compact version on my climbing line. Won't worry about it then!
@@ericbalmes3820 when tying the JRBAH on a JRB Climbing system, ya want to make that loop at the bottom as long as possible but still enable you to easily reach the top of the hitches to break them for rappel. It depends on your bridge length too. Longer loops make them easier to grip and move, because ya need to get your fingers on the handles and shove up
Do you have a link for the specific 7mm cord you are using? Will 6mm TRC work on elite for this hitch?
Yes, i have tied that combination with good results.
This was Sterling standard 7mm accessory cord.