Amazing video! Sadly watching cause I sent my max to a shop to get fork seals done and it came back clunking BADLY on recoil top. Maybe they didn’t install the preload spring on the valve.
I don't remember the size but want to say 2.125". Just get some that fits as tight as possible over the tubing and then it can be sanded down on the outside if it's too large to slide inside the upper portion of the fork leg.
Are you the same Sean Morley that helped my friend Mike with his one bad carb, think it's an 86 VMAX ? He said to look you up on face book if that's you ? Could not find you among all the Sean Morleys ?!?!?!
Great Video! After watching it the replacement was very easy. But unfortunately the leak in one side started again short after and became really bad. The other side start leaking a little after 2-3 months. I tried to use the Seal Mate tool but it did not help at all. Any suggestion?
Make sure to use OEM seals and you need to check the tubes for any nicks or sharp edges. Small nicks after usually ok if you file down any high points to prevent the seals from further damage
The factory springs needed air to compensate for the low spring weight rating (about .37). The air is a crutch that is determinental to the overall function of the forks. Going with the stronger springs (either Racetech, Progressive as seen here, or a few other brands) will get much better function. Thus we do not use air. On the 85-92 forks we even eliminate the air crossover tube and weld the holes closed.
I've installed Hyperpro fork springs on my Vmax, and the manual that came with the forks said I had to fill to 24cm. You say it's about 12 cm. That is quite the difference... So which one is it really?
Keep in mind the early forks use a different qty then later forks. The measurement method that I use of 123 mm with forks compressed and no springs and spacers has always worked well for both sets of years.
More oil decreases the air cushion area though that is a minimal affect. Too much though will hydrolock the forks and blow the seals. Too low and it can cause bushing wear from lack of lubrication but that's usually when you're really low.
@@omfgwtfbbq90 I would use the stock oil level measurement but not the stock quantity measurement. The thicker springs will display some more oil so the quantity is going to be less. But the level height is going to stay the same. You could use slightly less to compensate but it's going to be more important to have the same on both sides
Look for Nick's or deep scratches on the seal travel area. Did you replace the upper fork bushings? If they are worn the tube isn't held in there very stable
I am disassemble it again and check. By the way, do you know what is the part number for the upper fork bushing? I don't see it as being sold on the Fork assembly image.
Sean Morley thank you for your time, but one more question. I just discovered this wierd line that is attached to two couplings at the top of the forks that is making it very hard to remove. Mines is a 1985.how in the hell do you remove them ?and also i Have a Schrader valve on one of the forks too does air or nitrogen go in it? Thousand thanks bud
Air was a crutch for far too soft on the factory springs. Once you convert to an aftermarket spring with higher tension you no longer need the air crutch. Air is the enemy of the fluid because it aerates and puts bubbles in the fluid and therefore makes it less effective. Plus air is compressible while fluid is not.
This video was extremely helpful, I did my fork seals today. Without the video I would have paid the shop to do it. Thanks Sean!
You and your Daughter just saved me $200!!!
I wish I would have know about your vids when I had my 05. Thanks for posting these up and joining the GEN 2 website!
god bless this man. you have bought me some decent springs with the money i have saved! woo hoo!!!
Nice video. What year is that Vmax?
Amazing video! Sadly watching cause I sent my max to a shop to get fork seals done and it came back clunking BADLY on recoil top. Maybe they didn’t install the preload spring on the valve.
Gostei muito desse vídeo, graças a ele pude trocar os retentores da minha vmax
Excellent video!
I don't remember the size but want to say 2.125". Just get some that fits as tight as possible over the tubing and then it can be sanded down on the outside if it's too large to slide inside the upper portion of the fork leg.
Are you the same Sean Morley that helped my friend Mike with his one bad carb, think it's an 86 VMAX ? He said to look you up on face book if that's you ? Could not find you among all the Sean Morleys ?!?!?!
2 years later...You can find Sean on V-max group
It's headlight is amazing woooww
Great. Sounds like you maybe had it too far extended which can make it feel stuck without the pressure from the springs in place.
Awesome thank you so much for doing this.
5.5 inches is for early model forks (85-92).
Great video. One question:
I have a 10 year old Vmax with 18,000 miles. Should I also replace the spring?
Very informative. Thank you
What is the I.D. of the pvc pipe you use for the seal and bushing install?
Thanks
Все просто, и понятно.
Great Video! After watching it the replacement was very easy.
But unfortunately the leak in one side started again short after and became really bad. The other side start leaking a little after 2-3 months.
I tried to use the Seal Mate tool but it did not help at all.
Any suggestion?
Make sure to use OEM seals and you need to check the tubes for any nicks or sharp edges. Small nicks after usually ok if you file down any high points to prevent the seals from further damage
those must be the Pre '93 tubes 43mm fork too big for PVC "tool"
5 min become 5 days, 5 weeks.
good vid!
i got it, thanks
great info.. thank you... what about air pressure ?
+Derrick Ford - No air pressure. That is simply a crutch for an incorrect spring ratio that the factory does for a excessively soft ride.
I thought with progressive springs the level was 5.5" vs the 4.8" indicated in the manual.
I guess it's better to stick with the manual.
I have used the 123mm distance with stock and aftermarket progressive and racetech springs with good results.
I just did mine and a new tire and the front end shakes bad. Going to get the tire ballanced and see whats happing next
I'd replace the stock springs even if the bike had 0 miles. Stock springs are weak and the main reason why oil seals fail so soon on the Vmax.
I thought these things had air in them???
The factory springs needed air to compensate for the low spring weight rating (about .37). The air is a crutch that is determinental to the overall function of the forks. Going with the stronger springs (either Racetech, Progressive as seen here, or a few other brands) will get much better function. Thus we do not use air. On the 85-92 forks we even eliminate the air crossover tube and weld the holes closed.
I put the fork back together and now it wont pump for me to put fluid in..it wont move at all....dont know whats going on
I've installed Hyperpro fork springs on my Vmax, and the manual that came with the forks said I had to fill to 24cm. You say it's about 12 cm. That is quite the difference...
So which one is it really?
Keep in mind the early forks use a different qty then later forks. The measurement method that I use of 123 mm with forks compressed and no springs and spacers has always worked well for both sets of years.
@@one2dmax and the forks in question are the old 40mm ones? I have the 43mm forks.
Also does more oil mean more/harder damping?
More oil decreases the air cushion area though that is a minimal affect. Too much though will hydrolock the forks and blow the seals. Too low and it can cause bushing wear from lack of lubrication but that's usually when you're really low.
@@one2dmax so basically just follow the manufacturer's oil level recommendation! They're progressive springs btw
@@omfgwtfbbq90 I would use the stock oil level measurement but not the stock quantity measurement. The thicker springs will display some more oil so the quantity is going to be less. But the level height is going to stay the same. You could use slightly less to compensate but it's going to be more important to have the same on both sides
How do you remove the part where the short springs goes on?
Look for our disassembly video
@@one2dmax yes, I put this on the back burner but got them finished last weekend! Thank you
Is that a ordinary 10mm allen socket you're using?
stand Allen sockets. size varies depending on the year
8mm .
8mm
did you use OEM seals?
Yes, OEM. Any suggestion?
Look for Nick's or deep scratches on the seal travel area. Did you replace the upper fork bushings? If they are worn the tube isn't held in there very stable
I am disassemble it again and check. By the way, do you know what is the part number for the upper fork bushing? I don't see it as being sold on the Fork assembly image.
I need a how to for 2nd gen vmax. Anyone?
What size pvc tube you use to install oil seal? Tia
rdogcrf450r I Bryce it's 2.25" thin wall for 93-07 forks
Sean Morley thank you for your time, but one more question. I just discovered this wierd line that is attached to two couplings at the top of the forks that is making it very hard to remove. Mines is a 1985.how in the hell do you remove them ?and also i Have a Schrader valve on one of the forks too does air or nitrogen go in it? Thousand thanks bud
I haven’t seen 2.25” pvc. Where were you able to find this? I know this is a little old but I’m hoping to find it as well
dont we need air in them ?
Air was a crutch for far too soft on the factory springs. Once you convert to an aftermarket spring with higher tension you no longer need the air crutch. Air is the enemy of the fluid because it aerates and puts bubbles in the fluid and therefore makes it less effective. Plus air is compressible while fluid is not.