Metal Inserts on a 3D Print
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- In this video, Chuck shows you how to use the Davinci pause feature to insert a metal nut into a 3D print. He uses this to make a replacement knob on a snowblower.
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It's crazy that 6 years ago i thought 3D printing was something only rocket scientists used and now, thanks to you and your wonderful videos, i have a whole print farm. Time goes by quick!
for all the peeps ripping on chuck for this video and how he supposedly should have used a store bought wing nut or designed with hellicoils in solid plastic. He shows in this video how he does it his own way, that's what 3d printing is about, you are the creator. hellicoils in plastic using a machine bolt is a very temporary fix on a da Vinci printer. you would be better off with a screw or a more bigger threaded bolt if you were to print hellicoils. I can see why he did it his way, not to mention that's the first video I have seen metal inserts done on a da Vinci! keep em coming!
Cool project, I would have thrown away the snow blower and got a new one or sold my house and moved someplace warm but this seems more practical and cost effective.
Not with big gloves. This knob makes it much easier and it contains a $0.10 metal nut.
Great technique. Thanks for taking the time create the video. As a noob to 3D printing, I appreciate these types of How-To videos.
on mcmaster-carr website, you can download the cad/cam for most the fasteners to integrate into your files, to create voids/cavities. you'll need to upsample them a bit to allow for shrink/fitment.
This is rad, thanks for sharing!
Interesting demonstration of your ability to insert a metal part (nut) into your plastic print. In the end I'd have just used a typical wing nut to fix the snow blower though. And if you wanted to coat the wings on the nut in case you had to handle it without gloves while its cold or something just dip each side in some liquid tape or some sort of silicone.
In theses cases, I simply design a press-fit hole in the print and then press the nut in with a vice. This way the nut does not come out and the print is more straightforward.
But the technique does have its potential uses.
+eshneto you can also heat the nut and press it in. the plastic flows around and locks it in place nicely.
Shows you how far 3d printing has come since this video was made... Simplify3D would make this much easier. You can programatically pause on a specific layer, drop the bed (or raise the hotend), put your nut in, start the second process and you're good to go. You don't have to wait around at the printer for the right time.
I can't believe this video is already 6 years old! Expertly narrated instructional video. I'm your newest subscriber, Chuck! My future project will be to make one of those battery recharging docks. These are like 99% plastic with a couple metal tangs inserted into them. I've racked my brains trying to figure out how this can be done. Now that I see the ease in which you demonstrated the nut insert concept, I've got the requisite confidence needed to attempt this bold endeavor. Thanks again.
I am with ya on the hating snow page! You find the print that melts it, please share and I will do the same! Liked this video, very well done and answered a couple of questions I had eating at me. Thank you!
I realize this is an older post, but wanted to tell you thanx!! A part on my wife's scope (she's an avid birder) broke. It's the piece that the tripod screws into, so it's a plastic part with a brass nut in there. I remembered that you had done a video about that, so figured I could give it a shot. As the brass nut was round, I didn't do it quite the same way as here, but it was still my inspiration. I made the hole a hair too tight, and then used my soldering iron to sink the nut into the printed replacement part. So I was able to model up (using Tinkercad, that you turned me on to) the part and set the brass nut in it. Works great!! Much stronger than the original!! Thanx again!!! (Using my Monoprice Mini.. ;-)
Woo thanks for learning me something new Chunk, always had problems trying to copy and design stuff in tinkercad, Didn't know i could use my scanner to help me! Thanks a lot and make more videos on using 3d printing and tinkercad!
ridingg You learned, he taught. You should say 'thanks for teaching me'.
Gadget Addict He's probably from the south. When I lived in Georgia it used to drive me bat shit crazy when people would say he learned me something.
thorough and concise video!
woah.... dude the scan ability blew me away.
Wouldn't putting the nut more toward the center make more sense? Guess it depends on bolt size etc.
It was worth watching just to learn I can scan an object and use that as a starting point in Tinkercad, which I'm just starting to learn. I have a good scanner but it's old and out of use. Now I won't be tempted to throw it out as obsolete.
My observation about Chuck moving an object out of the way temporarily to select the inside "hidden" object: Instead,
I drag my mouse starting in the clear workspace and then through where both objects are sure to be. In graphics programs that's been known as a "marquee select".
Check the status line to see if 2 pieces are selected.
Shift click the mouse on the exterior part you don't want which de-selects it and the part still shown as 1 piece selected is the hidden part. Carry on.
I think your video was brilliant. To others, yeah you could get a simple wing nut to solve the problem but that's not the point. What if you don't live near a hardware store and I wouldn't pay for shipping for something like that. It goes back to the saying, "Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day; show him how to 3D print, and he will be able to create/fix anything for a lifetime". Keep up the great work!!
I've made custom T-nuts for 6-32 machine screws that go into extruded aluminum, in a similar fashion. Cura has a plugin called "Tweak at Z", just set the height you want to pause at, let it run, when it pauses - insert the nut, and press go.
P.S. Greetings from a fellow Michigander =)
Great video. I need one for my snow blower too! And no you can't just use a wing nut from a hardware store unless you take your mittens off EVERY time you adjust it. Love the video because I need to duplicate many different shapes and it would save me A LOT of time doing it this way. Keep up the good work!
I love your videos... no BS just straight forward advise and instructions.
Great vid with chrystal clear explanation!
Clever idea!
Excellent job, good to see practical uses for these printers instead of little models. Subscribed..
wow its usefull project thank for share Mr Chuck
9:00 thats how a happy man looks
Hi Chuck, - This was great. I have been thinking along these lines for a few weeks now and your video helped me figure out how to do it. Thank you very much.
Mate, that's really clever, especially that trick where you scanned the shape in.
Thanks fir sharing, and you also have a new subscriber. :-)
You can configure slicer to pause automaticaly at desired layer.
Excellent video
that was slick man.
wow that is cool. I really enjoy your videos
Thought it was funny when you were making us anticipate whether or not the bolt would fit. As if the nut would mysteriously change its properties once embedded. Of course it fits!
Note though that you could have installed a pause command in the gcode so you wouldn't have to sit and wait for it to get to the right position.
Just use Repetier's gcode editor. You can visually inspect the model and find the right location, go into the gcode and enter the pause command that way.
You can send pause and resume commands...insert the g-codes M25 G4S120 M24 (2 minute dwell) commands at the appropriate point in your print file, then you can resume. I haven't tested, these are just the commands from the G-Code list. Might want to add a home or something after the pause to get the head out of the way.
Hmm, I didn't know that. I'm a programmer, so maybe I'll take a look at it, because I'm in the process of building my printer and I want to print props that will probably require a lot of brief pauses.
Very nice, but you should always make the part (what would seem) larger than what you intended because the plastic will contract as it cools. This is why the nut was tough to insert even though the CADed hole was larger than the nut. For this project it was probably a good thing as you wanted the nut to be secure, just for future reference though.
I was thinking of doing the same thing, it with smd leds.
I don’t know if you use Fusion 360, but you can import an image, and calibrate it for size. Then easily create a complex shape using their tools. Then it’s just extrude and you have a 3D object. Also when trying to gain access to internal parts, you just select them from your browser. No need to move things around. I know this is an old video of yours and you may be using fusion already, but I really think it’d be great for you.
That was an awesome, insiders tip. Great video! Thanks!
felt good to see the outcome ! i know the feeling
You probably could have built that from scratch in tinkercad quicker than the scan and fix took FWIW. Great project though! Also if you are printing PLA you might look into sintering (baking it for an hour at 110c) it after the fact for much improved durability.
CHEP 3D Printing & Electronics
That makes sense. It is a great guide and the captive nut is very cool indeed. I have a couple of applications I'm thinking of trying that on. Just need to figure out how to pause a print on the A8 with the shipped firmware. Thanks for your thoughtful reviews too btw. Been enjoying your videos. PS, standard PLA sinters better than HTPLA apparently. Go figure.
Very good idea Chuck.Grat tecnichs and the simplicity of this,using a flat scan to take the shape of and object its nice, well im new to 3d print and yuo giveme another good tip like the magic number,thanks a lot
I've used the pause feature to change filaments and print with two (or more) colors. I hate snow too. Hahaha
Good job Chuck. Thank you!
Better Idea: Drill & tap a small chunk of 3mm steel or aluminum flat stock, small enough to fit inside the overall form. Then print the knob around the steel chunk. Presto! You now have a "plastic" knob almost as strong as one machined out of metal. Tip: heat up your metal insert with a heat gun before dropping it into the recess you've created. That will help it drop into a tight tolerance recess and improve layer adhesion when you restart the printer.
Oh tell me about it! there was 10 inches of snow just a few days ago and now its raining and in the 40s! Michigan weather is crazy.
now that is a nice technique. GJ.
Thats a great idea. Thx for sharing!
This is cool. I wonder if you can do this on a regular #reprap though -- Maybe right in the gcode -- just put a filament change instruction in or something, right at a certain layer change (since that also causes the machine to pause while the user does something manually).
+Michael Jensen Cura, slicer, etc all have a pause feature. So all you need is a pause feature on your slicing program
i hear you there i hate snow but love the money
Hello fellow Michigander!(i live in CA currently but consider myself still from MI;) keep up the great vids!
The 'proper' way to insert a nut. If you cannot, then pushing the nut in with a soldering iron works quite well...
very nice!
Hi Chuck,
I was wondering if it would be alright with you if I place a link to this video as being the inspiration for me getting into 3d printing? I won't do it without your permission.
Why sealing the nut inside? You could put it in and screw the bolt from the other side.
MastaHiggins exactly! ;)
This is a good video, but you might want to explore Fusion 360. It is free to hobbyists. There is a lot of overhead, but if keep at it, you will wonder how you ever got along without it. Lars Christiansen has some excellent tutorials.....
This is why I got a 3D printer, to print replacement parts.
Still not got my printers working properly, not enough time or space to have them on permanently, but at least I got them when I need them.
Whilst this is a good way to do it there is also away that is probably easier and just as effective. What you could do is make the inner diameter hole a bit smaller than the actual nut. Then using a lighter just heat up the nut till its properly hot and simply melt it into the plastic. this is just as effective as the technique shown in the video is as probably even a little faster.
Thanks for the idea!!
This is brilliant, so glad its possible! :-) Great tutorial!
that was a clever one... nice idea....
you are very clever!
Why am I watching this? I don't even have a 3d printer... >.
I don't have one either. Lol!
Hope you have one now. I got one 2 weeks ago, it's addicting.
If you don't have a snow blower either , You should seek help! xD
I don't have one either, but I have a 'classic' (LOL) 1994 Ford Probe and the little rollers in the window regulator failed. So I designed the part figuring I could find a printer somewhere. As fate would have it, the UPS Package store down the street was a pioneer store to have a 3D printer. (Don't know if this spread to other stores. I'm in San Diego). Twenty bucks and I had a prototype and then modified and it's been in the car for 5 years. I also had a metal part in my $240 front-door lock that failed. Part no longer available, so I designed it and got a plastic prototype made at UPS. Adjusted the design and found Shapeways, a NY company that will print in not only plastic, but they will print in several metals, etc. i had them print in steel. Part cost was $9.40 and free shipping over the Christmas holiday.
@@Nickvec You know I posted 2 years ago that I didnt have a 3d printer, but a week ago I finally got one!
That Amazing thanks Mr Chuck...
This would be a cool idea to hide money or gold in a print that way.
Like a perfectly sealed egg or figurine.
thank you, great details- much appreciated. cheers
I noticed that there were voids around the hole where the nut goes 7:13 . Is there a way to force the printer to make an area of a 3d printed part solid? It would use more filament, but might be useful for high stress areas of parts.
BTW, Everyone who lives in Michigan hates snow! Lol!
Thanks for the video.
You really should look at Fusion 360 as a replacement for TinkerCAD. :)
do snow shoveling in the winter
Awesome video!
Right around 7:19 you brushed the extruder nozzle with something. Why did you do that? What type of brush is it? [I don't have my printer yet - waiting for the i3 mk2]
Very nice demo. Where can I get a DaVinci printer and how much do they cost? Have you use any other kind of printers? What cad software do you use.
Love to see the whole design process. Very informative video for someone getting started. Any relation to Connor?
Smart idea.. I like it.
Did you need to eyeball/estimate the time to stop the printer to insert the nut??
*****
Would have been nice to have the printer stop automatically at a predetermined print layer and sound a buzzer that it had reached the desired level.
Just push the nut into a slightly smaller hole with a soldering iron.
Very interesting. Would the Davinci stop, and allow you to start again if the filament ran out?
Good job !
Chuck are you still in Michigan? I was just about to send a note to your Milford PO Box. Scott in Auburn Hills
Does this cause u to have to re-level the bed mid print?
Back in 2015, we would just go buy a 60 cent wing nut lol. Actually they sell knobs like that at my local menards
yes haha! it's so brilliant it hurts! :D
If it happens again all you need is print another one out. Or fill a jar with them. Or do something else that works and when you see what you have done you can smile a little and think "victory!"! :)
And the actual point with the video wasn't to make the greatest thingie ever but to show you the idea of stopping in the middle of the process and [insert your own ideas] then print out the rest. Now where is my flame suit?
you can just you helicoils for that purpose its much easier and efficent
Do you like this 3d printer thats in the video because I'm thinking of getting one is the quality of the print good, and strong thanks
This particular model is a great printer once you get it tuned in properly. Ive had incredible prints come from it however as Chuck mentioned its closed source and can make things difficult especially if its not flashed to work with Repetier. Check his channel for some reviews he's done on other printers that are much more beginner friendly.
lol my local hardware store has a large selection of plastic knobs with metal threads.
I've seen guys print with a void then sink a nut with a soldering irob.
Nice video.
I thought there was a bee next to me when that music started.
The content is great, very instructional, however the pace could be upped a couple notches for younger audiences! Keep up the good work!
Right, that's from 2014. I can't believe how much the content has improved on CZcams since the last couple years.
Great video. These are the kind of projects I started 3D printing for. I’m not interested in the cute statues that so many guys play around with. I want functional things. The point isn’t that you go to the hardware store. Often it is to make something better and improve the original design. So the techniques presented here are sound.
I’m curious how this will stand up in the cold. I’ve typically had to make outdoor parts bigger than original to keep them from breaking, if pressure is required to make the part work. So while I like the scan technique for more complex things, I would have made this one from scratch and made the wings much bigger. And slapped your logo on it. But anyway it’s still a great video, and hope you ignore the guys saying to run to the hardware store. That’s not the point.
This video is over 3 yrs old. I still have it on my snowblower and it’s held up fine.
Why do you brush the head, do it recommended by the manual, does this will affect om the future?
is a plastic or metal brush
Chuck you are #1 !! keep up the good work !! recommended to friends you're channel & subscribe
Computer seems very slow or is that just the video capturing?
excellent!!! i would love to be your apprentice in 3D printing jobs... :-)
Hey Chep. Being using the pause at height technique and for the most part it works great but today I noticed some parts break along that paused line and wondering if you had any suggestions.
Start and end at the same height so they merge/melt together.
@@FilamentFriday Ya thats what I did. but it is still snapping. So set it to redo the layer and will see if that solves it. Thanks for getting back to me. If you have other vids on the subject love to see them
I have the same printer as you and my glass cracked. How do I take it off, replace it with borosilicate glass, and recalibrate it?
You can dl 3d hardware models from McMaster Carr
If you have the .stl then yes.
If anything took 18 seconds to slice on my PC I'd be fucking pissed, for you to say it's ok to take 18 seconds for such a small part instead of 1 or 2 I have to really admire your patience.
This video is 5 yrs old. Slicing has gotten a lot better.
Good video! But you printed it backwards! =P
Why didn't you do in black?
Don't take it WRONG GREAT VIDEO! But a wing nut would have been faster even if you had to drive 10 miles to get one. But it is a worthwhile watching video a somewhat simple project that is a good teaching tool.
Is tinker as a free program? You make very informative videos thanks
Nice vid!
How do you guarantee that the material's layers bond together after the pause?
+Chuck Hellebuyck's Electronic Products nice
did anyone notice that with only a few washers it could have fit the snow blow loosened, why to print with such pain?
You could have bought one at Goody's Hardware!
Really? Nice!
They have large plastic wing nuts that work with heavy winter gloves like the original?
We don’t have a Goody’s here.
Umm.. you can buy replacements very easily. Fastenal or granger can get you anything.