Now for an actual tractor comment. I purchased a Massey Ferguson GC1710 TLB about 5 years ago or so. My first tractor. I really love it. It’s a pleasure to use and gets a surprising amount of work done for such a small tractor! The only regret is the lack of quick-attach. That by itself has me thinking very seriously about John Deere as I’m considering buying a larger tract of land that will require quite a bit of heavier work.
Nice videos, good work! The 1 series John Deere tractor looks like it gets all your chores done with ease. Keep what you got is my advice. I just acquired an LS MT 125 tractor with loader , after I bought it, I thought about the next size tractor up since the price was so close but ultimately I'm happy with the subcompact it's the best match for my half acre property.
I was in the same situation as you are in now, only a year ago. I had an 2005 4010 JD tractor, which would be the same as your 1 series and I had full intentions of replacing it with a new 1025R TLB but I settled with a 2025R, it has a lot more ground clearance, bigger tires and a bigger ‘feeling’ cockpit. I’m glad I did, it does everything I ask of it, it fits in the shed where my 4010 used to live and all the attachments that I bought over the past 10 years fit the new tractor. Plus as an added bonus, there’s no DEF or regen to consider, which as a professional mechanic, I can tell you first hand it’s a worry I can do with out! I enjoy your videos, keep up the good work. Blessings, Jeff
Very good thought-provoking points for me. Initially, I though the 1025R would be sufficient for me. But, the more I research the more I lean to the 2032R or 2038R if for no other reason than stability.
If you do upgrade I would suggest get the 38 hp. I have a 3038E and am pretty happy with it. When I till with it in wetter soil the engine bogs down a bit so then I raise the tiller up so it cuts the dirt easier mostly for deer plots. I retired at the end of 2018. I have a 40 acre farm that I purchase just for deer hunting about 8 years ago. I lease out 26 acres that is farmable. I also have a RC2060 JD bushhog that works quite well. I wish in a way I would have went with the R series and bought the back hoe. I have a road that I have to maintain and the back hoe would have been a handy attachment. Good luck to you.
The reason that I asked about the series 3 and 4 tractors was that my wife had bought a kubota BX 23S. This machine does a lot and services us very well. The land that we recently purchased has some very large maple trees that were killed by the horses the former owner had. The horses had girdled the trees. These trees are about 40 inches DBH. So the BX isn’t going to be much use in dealing with this problem. I was talking to the delivery driver when the BX was delivered. I made a comment about getting a B series for the heavier tasks and comment he made stuck with me. He said that if I can’t do it with the BX than I wouldn’t be able to do it with a B series. So, after a year of using the BX and research, I ended up getting an L3560 with a cab. With this machine I can do most everything I need and I fell in love with the hydrostatic dual speed transmission. But since it is 3 sizes larger than the BX none of the implements switch over. So additional implements were needed which added to the cost. I was thinking that if the 1025R did 80-90% of what you need than upgrading to the next size machine up just might be more investment than its worth. The 1025r is a little more machine than the BX; so, you already have a little greater FEL lift and nicer backhoe. Plus I don’t know how much stress a 3 pt mounted back hoe would put on the tractor frame. I saw some good advice from other viewers on solving the issues you have. Very good video.
Thanks for your time and videos you put online for us. All you questions you have, I do have the same. I am just retired and I bought a tractor to... play with it. Doing jobs for the neighbors around my house, do little jobs on my house (very little... I only own an 80' X 100'... ''land''. Absolutly no experience with tractor... In fact, I will receive it in 2 weeks from now. But... I recognise myself in your questioning. I beleive I will have a lot of other questions in a year from now! But I had ''fun'' listening to your video... It kind of helped me a little bit listening your thoughts... Lets see how it will be in one year from now. See you in your next video! Have a great day!
I had a 1025R, and it did more than I thought it could. The uneven terrain at my homestead made for some pucker factor moments. It was a perfect entry level machine, and exceeds average homeowners needs. My dealer gave a more than fair trade in. I came home with a 2038R tlb. What a difference! The stability (wheel spacers) and power is night n day. The tier 4 emission system (feds) is in its associated cost. I traded in some smaller attachments to my dealer for bigger ones. You could sell them outright too without a problem. (Dedicated pallet forks is a must!) I use my 2038R alot. It makes jobs so much easier and quicker(lake effect snow). The price did hurt a bit. But its 2.5 times the 1025R tractor. My wife was not impressed though! Good luck!
Thanks for you input. I see the upgrade happening, but waiting for some things to pan out in the real world. I've even kicked around keeping the 1025r at our Southern Ohio property and have the 2038r (or 2032r) at home. In the mean time the 1025R is getting a work out. Take Care, Tom
@@ataleofthreecabins1025 I just got 32 acres of all woods, hills, and creeks to begin my first homestead. After doing so much research, the 2038R TLB is my decision. Do it right and do it once. It seems these things are difficult to find new down here in Southeast. Supply is low? I'm interested to see what price you end up with for TLB. Anyway, I'm looking through the comments to see if your length question was answered, So I know how long to build my shed. Thanks for your videos! Oh, I'll add more, since you appear to be in Ohio. I just showed my wife this deal an hour ago, in Ohio (coincidence?) A new 2038R with loader, backhoe, and mower deck for $35k. I'd jump on it, but I'm 300 miles away. www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/193801999/2019-john-deere-2038r
I looked through my JD receipts, and found 2038R TLB wheel spacers (and setup fees) spot on at $35k. And that was when they first came out mid 2017. The extra $1500 for the turbo puts 5 more ponies at the PTO. well worth it for ground engaging implements, PTO generator etc. I dont have the loader or 270B attached at the moment, I just have the 60D belly mower attached. So I cant give you an overall measurement at this time. I originally wanted the 72" mower deck. My dealer said, if you have a golf course lawn...fine. otherwise it can be scalping ground grading implement. I added the 270B later. I think bundling the whole package is the best bang for your buck. Buy once! Cry once!
I moved away from JD to Massey years ago before I got in too big because of price. I now have two tractors plus implements. I probably have at least 4 or 5 implements that I wouldn’t have had if I would have spent the extra money. That said, as you said, you are in their eco system now. So as a fellow tractorian (I made this up, a breed of people who just can’t stay in the house to watch 80’s TV reruns), if your only concern is stability, try dual rear tires. Much less money than a whole new tractor and doesn’t tie you into a wider track except when you need it. Good luck, keep tractoring(this is what tractorians do), and stay safe.
It took me 9 years to buy a zero turn to mow 5 acres. From my 46 inch rider to a 60 zero turn it saves me 6 hours a week. I'm wanting a 1025r or 2680 kubota with loader and box blade for 600 feet of gravel driveway. I'm using a DR pull behind grader now.
I recommend a Mr Funnel portable fuel filter to pre-filter your diesel while filling. Takes all the water out. Carports are relatively inexpensive. Then just fill in the sides with plywood or roofing.
Thanks for the vids. Really helpful. 13:46 is critical to me, particularly because I value the mid-mount mower deck. However, I am also weighing the other point you made about that mid-mount mower deck being much more expensive than a 54" riding lawn mower ... even a JD X300 mid-premium model will be cheaper than the deck for these compact tractors.
I did the 2032R. Have rental properties and didnt want to get to big or heavy for the work in yards. Really increased lifting capacity and same engine and hydraulics as 2038r but no turbo to go bad.
The other thing you need to consider is the potential need for a bigger trailer. I have a 1025R and it does everything I need to do and I can maneuver around my garden beds much easier than if I had a 2 series tractor. About the only thing I would benefit as you already mentioned is the additional lift capacity on the post hole digger. Based on what I see from the many videos you have made that the 1025R is still the better choice.
Wow, how pricing has changed in the last 2 years. I recently got a quote for a new 2032R with a bucket and backhoe: $47k. I'm thinking the 1025R might be a little too small for me, but wow that's a lot of money for the next step up.
If you do upgrade you'll definitely appreciate the stability of the bigger tractor. I work for the gas company and one of the Compressor Stations i used to operate they had a 1023 e with a loader and belly mower. That thing was dangerous on a bank. I just about rolled it over oneday and wasn't on steep ground. I much prefer a bigger tractor. I believe it's because of the tractors weight that makes it more secure and better stability. Good luck with your choice, and Happy New year.
I have a 1023E myself and I briefly considered the same thing, I thing you'd be well-served to keep the 1025R, for the money and the ability to get in tight spots and your infrastructure you have built so far with your attachments, it doesn't seem like going to a 2038R would make it worth it. Unless you really increased your tractor work side hustle and could make some serious money with it. But even then, smaller yards will be out of reach for doing work on a property less than an acre or two. With a 2R, you'd increase your potential for larger work though.
I bought the 2032R in 2017, considered the 2038R but it wasn’t worth the extra money for my use. I really love mine. Now my wife loves it as much as I do
Video just finished: I'm not sure I would upgrade for the price difference. I could barely afford the 1025r, but at 0% for 84mo ($222) I figured what the heck. I have about 2acres and to me the 1025r is the perfect size. Anything bigger I think it would be bad getting close to things and tight areas and losing that tight turn radius. I can't remember if you have your rear tires filled, that may give more stability and others have put spacers on as well. I think the 2025 was just coming out when I got mine, but I couldn't do the price. So far I haven't found anything on my property the 1025r couldn't handle.
You will also gain clearance for your 3 pt. attachments. The 1025r 3 pt. is "limited" in how far it can lift your implements and the type of implements you can effectively carry. The larger tires on the 2 series provide more lift at the 3 pt. A consideration if you have areas of low clearance.
Terrific job creating/editing the video! I have some non-tractor questions for you. What are you using to film the video? What mic are you using for your audio?
A quick comment on the stability issue. I have a 2014 1023e. I was very disappointed at first with the feeling of instability on any kind of uneven ground. This was compounded by the fact I bought my tractor with a 60d autoconnect mower to mow roughly 3 acres of lawn including a steep highway right of way in the front of my property. After some research, I added fluid in the rear tires. I chose RV antifreeze. The best option is probably Rim Guard but my closest dealer was over 2 hours away. I also added the plastic lined 50 lb wheel weights. After these additions my tractor is a completely different machine! I had considered wheel spacers as well but the additional weight cured my concerns for stability. It's my opinion that the dealers ought not to be allowed to sell tractors equipped with FEL's without the ballast because of the damage you can do using the loaders without it. Fyi, I have an uncle that has a 2014 1025r TLB like yours. He thought the backhoe was sufficient ballast. At roughly 400 hours of use his front axle failed. Luckily it was covered by the powertrain warranty, but that also made a believer out of me on the ballast issue. I recommend you look into this as well if you plan on keeping your tractor. Thanks for the videos!
I had a 2011 - 1026R, it worked great and had 500 hours on it. Decided to go with a new 1025R. Just like the size and maneuverability. I do a little landscaping and lawn aerating and really like the twin touch hydro pedals. It is easy to transport on my trailer and does everything I need. Enjoy your comments, you have learned a lot.
I also have a 1025R and am mulling over moving up to the 3025D/E series. The wheel base is very very close to that of a 1025R, and you can use all the attachments that you currently have. The 3E/D series has full cat 1 rear 3 pt hitch, with greater lift capacity and the loader lifts more as well. The 3 E/D series has no mid pto, but I see you are not running a mid mount mower, so no worries there. Unless you need all the 'R' bells and whistles that come with the 2032 and 2038 tractors, I would say that you would get way more bang for your buck in a 3025 D/E series tractor. There is also a 370B backhoe for that series of tractor as well. Really enjoy your videos. Good luck in your choice for next tractor.
I understand your delimma. However, I don't own either at this time but are still debating the purchase between one or the other. Being a former tractor owner (gear driven only in those days) I fully understand that bigger is often better.
Rethink if you really need. Everybody saying bigger is better. Not always. If you not using full capabilities of machine, why to change ? Having big one just for mowing bigger field, but having problems around tight jobs. Like having Ferrari and living in congested city. You need to compromise. Lot of people will say I have x... y... or z... brand 45HP never having problems etc. Will compare this to battle between 45ACP and 9mm shooters. Both have pros and cons, depends what you need. Always are two sides. 1025R is very good machine. You have invest lot of into attachments, so stay with it, and being retired will give you more time.
I think you are making the right choice by holding on until a better deal or a greater need arises. I would like to have heard more about the depreciation value of the 1025r in terms of what the dealer valued on trade because that would be a big factor for me also. I always watch your videos and have a 1025r myself and I always see that the 1025r gets the job down, sometimes its a little slower but who doesn't love seat time on the tractor. I enjoy your videos and enjoyed these comparison videos.
I'm going through the same debate right now. 125 hrs on my 2019 1025 and, while I absolutely love my rig, would like more hp and higher lift on the FEL. So I'm looking at a 2038r. My needs are mixed: 1 acre cabin needing utilities installed, footings and posts dug, and then tilling and eventually just mowing. Also, 2 rentals that will need serious back yard redos in next year. BUT, I also use it occasionally for construction, mostly forks and back hoe. Hence the need for more lifting ability and height. To your depreciation question: I was quoted $15,000 for my 1025 trade in a few days ago (w FEL and back hoe). And about $32,000 for a new 2038 (w/ BH). Interesting that the 2032r was only $1,000 less. Also, fyi, o% avail for 5 yrs but 1.9% for 6 and 2.9% for 7.
I bought the 1025r just because of the tight turning radius. Thought about the 2025 just for the bigger tires. Kind of wish I got that. For me the 1025r does what I need it to do. Think it has found its home.
I know you like your green and so do I, but I’m getting a Massey Ferguson 1740M with cab tomorrow. Worth looking at and if you’re financing they offer 0% interest for 84 months and no money down. All the brands seem to have different bells and whistles but at the end of the day they’re all about the same. Also...I have a client in North Royalton so I go by that dealer by you.
Definitely get the 38hp. No issues after 4 months. My new machine is a JD 2019 3038e with backhoe with a manual thumb. I think you’ll be very happy with the 2038r.
The racks are considered mini scaffolding. You can find them at Tractor supply, HF, Northern, Home Depot. Shop around, they go on sale frequently. I also use them as scaffolding when working on my home’s exterior.
The 1025r with the loader/backhoe just barely fits in my garage. Size matters. I retired a year ago and the money I spent on the John Deere was originally saved up for a new car. My old one still worked good and I drive very little (20,000 miles in 10 years). So the 1025r was a better investment. The tight turning radius of the 1025r allows me to remove fallen trees on the mountain road behind my house. A larger tractor couldn’t do it without falling off the mountain.
What about spacers and the dual tire option for back. Would that not help with your stability issue. Seems that was your biggest complaint about 1025r be alot cheaper than buying a new tractor.
You have talked about cost in regard to difference I am assuming new to new. Will the dealer give you 100% of your purchase price on a trade? The price difference may be greater then you think. HP is great, for me additional lift capacity is what I really desire but to purchase a new tractor for 300lbs more lift capacity. Not worth the cost difference for me just for that. Now if we are talking cab tractor with heat and a/c that would be good. I have a red tractor wanted to upgrade for all the same reasons. I wound up get a cab and adjusting the hydraulic pressure up to get a little more lift capacity, I know not the best thing to do but...
I'm not sure about the bigger tractors, but the 1025r and the Green tax I seen no such thing around me. BX23s was about $500-1,000 more but felt cheaper to me and all other brands like Massey, RK, etc were about the same price. I'll pay an extra couple hundred to have the convenience features like the loader control on the fender, fender lights, loader bucket level indicator, etc at that time (2018). Mac's rule as well, good choice! Can have problems with anything electronics, but I am a IT guy and supported both, the Mac is more reliable and far less problems!
Start looking at the used market. Lots of good low hour machines out there. I have seen some real deals at auctions as well, might check out trigreens west of Columbus if your Ohio place is within a couple hours. Bottom line is your money your decision.
I stopped at Bridgeport and purchased a new 2038R with loader backhoe and mower last week. $34,644.75 before tax!! They have deals on 2019 remaining stock. Was quoted 1,500 more for a 2020 version. This was after markup for 84 month financing. If you purchase for 48 months, it would be $32,912.51. That also includes fluid filled tires. I couldn't pass up the deal, so I went ahead and purchased it. Ag-Pro want 38,500 for the same thing. Just food for thought.
I'm in Atlanta and I just saw that deal at Bridgeport a few hours ago and posted it here for Three Cabins. Now I see you post the same thing. Damn! It's tempting to drive on up there and buy! But where do I go for warrantee service? AgPro? Man! I have some serious tractor fever!
To save space putting in shed, I take off the bucket and leave it outside, saves about 10-12 inches, no def fluid needed for the 2 or 3 series. Highly recommend the 2038r.
No DEF fluid needed, but, there is a DPF filter that constantly needs Regen(s). The DPF's are not as carefree as some would have you believe. I had one ( on a JD 4066R), and I will never have one again. If you aren't running your tractor at WOT all the time, the regen can soots up real easy, real fast. And when the tractor can no longer clean the can out, you have to have it cleaned at the dealer. And it can only be cleaned so many time and then a new regen canister is needed. Don't even ask what they cost, as you better be sitting down when you find out the price. If you stay with Deere, your options are 1025R, 2025R and the 3025D and 3025E series. No DPF's with any of those.
Stick with your 1025r as I have a 1025r tlb and a 3046r. When I'm on the 3046r I loose viability and maneuverability but I love the electronic transmission controls, the air ride seat, the hydraulic remotes, and the brute force. Feels like I'm driving a tractor trailer vs a pickup truck. If your budget will not justify the addition of a bigger tractor, keep the smaller one and rent a larger tractor or mini excavator depending on the application. Bottom line, if I had to choose one over the other I would stick with the 1025r. The ideal size tractor would be a 2025r with 35 HP and a bigger hydraulic pump.. Problem is stuffing the the particulate filter under the hood and still being able to see over the hood.
You should check out Tractor Time With Tim. He really has a very good comparison between the tractors you're looking at. It's worth a look plus he's got a flail mower review on there as well. He's got a ton of content.
So what you have is good, but RENT when need more power, I always go with a CASE Skid steer, and wheels or tracks mean bigger job. But a CASE can do some serious damage to the Phase 1, and then 8-16 hrs later you are only out 500-900 depends on your area. That is about 2 payments on the larger tractor! so Overall, RENTALS are all over the place, you get that best power for the right job and then the rest of the you can use your baby 1025R to do all the fun and easy stuff ! I love having options, so getting the 1025R FILB was a no brainer.
They real main difference between 2032r and 2038r is the 2038r has a turbo and the 2032r does not but both still contain the tier 4 emissions. But for emissions all you have to do is run at a high rpm like 2000 for working. The dpf (diesel particulate filter) constantly regens even if not parked regen. So basically it uses heat and pressure to burn off the soot. So you wont have a problem regening if your at a higher rpm.
I'd stick to the 1025R, you have a good working machine there and you have all these attachments that goes with it. Do you really need bigger and stronger ? I think that your tractor fit with the propriety you got. Don't need bigger.
The regen is actually not a problem as it does it automatically and I have never had to stop using my 2038r They say you may experience slight power loss but has never been an issue for me
This is my opinion and mine only. It looks like you're getting your jobs done with the tractor you have now. Is it really worth more money to upgrade just to get a very little more than what you have. Just my opinion.
Thanks for the input. I have a lot of projects coming up when the weather breaks and each one I'll be critiquing, would a series 2 have made it easier or harder.
I think almost every one that starts with a small tractor and actually USES it, goes thru this. I started with a 22hp Yanmar, 13 years later went to a 33hp New Holland another 12 years, then 10 years ago to a 41hp Yanmar. I 'think' I've hit the sweet spot for me in terms of work ability.....but who knows.....ahahhaaaaaa
I don't see you as a guy who looks for advice but, I am going to offer you some anyway. I would not trade in my tractor if I upgraded. Keep it or sell it out-right is the best move to make.
I pulled the trigger with the trade now I have my 2038r. Am glad I did. Feels more like a real tractor. And looks awesome. I wish I could afford the 1025 as well. Each one has their advantages
Dam if you do,dam if you don't, retirement coming,others has tractor around your area also,but all bigger,yours is smaller fits anywhere, something to think,I'm sure you'd love to go bigger,more expensive on tires etc. Your choice.a job you ask for money is the same, takes longer but you will be retired, time is all you got,good luck my friend.
If you upgraded to a 3 or 4 series you would have to sell all the attachments you have for your 1025R tractor and you have to buy new attachments for your 2038R tractor. You probably should go to a 3 series tractor with more horsepower, but the tractor would be able to use your tiller and lawn rake since it was designed for that series tractor anyway. If I was you and decided to upgrade I would keep the tractor you have and just get another one and see if you can get a package deal since you will have some work which the 1025R can handle easily.
I can’t believe the 2038 R doesn’t have a 3 speed transfer case. The medium gear is so important that I use it most of the time. High is too fast and low is too low for lots of work! I would have bought one but that was a factor for a different brand.
That is true. There are so many times I use it spur of the moment that would not be worth taking the time to rent one. It's one of those things you think in a luxury at first, but hard to live without overtime. I do it use much more than I thought I would. Take Care, Tom
Had you bought orange you'd be in an industry standard eco system instead of this proprietary garbage. Keep in mind I don't have an orange tractor, but I immediately ruled out JD because they don't use skid steer attachments. Unwilling to pay the green tax.
Proprietary might be a harsh work that makes it sound like you can only use JD attachments. There are several manufacturer of grapples, fork, plow, etc. that use the JK quick attach system. The actually make a quick attach adapter for skid steer, but that's just extra pounds add where every pound counts in a sub compact. Thanks for you thoughts!
Now for an actual tractor comment.
I purchased a Massey Ferguson GC1710 TLB about 5 years ago or so. My first tractor. I really love it. It’s a pleasure to use and gets a surprising amount of work done for such a small tractor!
The only regret is the lack of quick-attach. That by itself has me thinking very seriously about John Deere as I’m considering buying a larger tract of land that will require quite a bit of heavier work.
Nice videos, good work!
The 1 series John Deere tractor looks like it gets all your chores done with ease.
Keep what you got is my advice.
I just acquired an LS MT 125 tractor with loader , after I bought it, I thought about the next size tractor up since the price was so close but ultimately I'm happy with the subcompact it's the best match for my half acre property.
I was in the same situation as you are in now, only a year ago. I had an 2005 4010 JD tractor, which would be the same as your 1 series and I had full intentions of replacing it with a new 1025R TLB but I settled with a 2025R, it has a lot more ground clearance, bigger tires and a bigger ‘feeling’ cockpit. I’m glad I did, it does everything I ask of it, it fits in the shed where my 4010 used to live and all the attachments that I bought over the past 10 years fit the new tractor. Plus as an added bonus, there’s no DEF or regen to consider, which as a professional mechanic, I can tell you first hand it’s a worry I can do with out!
I enjoy your videos, keep up the good work.
Blessings, Jeff
Thanks for your input, Happy New Year!
Very good thought-provoking points for me. Initially, I though the 1025R would be sufficient for me. But, the more I research the more I lean to the 2032R or 2038R if for no other reason than stability.
Oh man…wish those prices were the same today!!! 😳
I just added 2" spacers to my 1025R with a loader and backhoe. That combined with getting my rear tires loaded made a huge difference in stability.
If you do upgrade I would suggest get the 38 hp. I have a 3038E and am pretty happy with it. When I till with it in wetter soil the engine bogs down a bit so then I raise the tiller up so it cuts the dirt easier mostly for deer plots. I retired at the end of 2018. I have a 40 acre farm that I purchase just for deer hunting about 8 years ago. I lease out 26 acres that is farmable. I also have a RC2060 JD bushhog that works quite well. I wish in a way I would have went with the R series and bought the back hoe. I have a road that I have to maintain and the back hoe would have been a handy attachment. Good luck to you.
My friends dad died just over a year ago in a tractor rollover. Please remember to put up your rollover bars.
Had a 1025R and then I retired and upgraded to a 3046r. never looked back, help all the friends with snow and land scaping. Lots of fun.
I have a 1025r TLB and came to the same conclusion - the compact nature has its advantages and rarely do I need more than the 1 series can handle.
The reason that I asked about the series 3 and 4 tractors was that my wife had bought a kubota BX 23S. This machine does a lot and services us very well. The land that we recently purchased has some very large maple trees that were killed by the horses the former owner had. The horses had girdled the trees. These trees are about 40 inches DBH. So the BX isn’t going to be much use in dealing with this problem. I was talking to the delivery driver when the BX was delivered. I made a comment about getting a B series for the heavier tasks and comment he made stuck with me. He said that if I can’t do it with the BX than I wouldn’t be able to do it with a B series. So, after a year of using the BX and research, I ended up getting an L3560 with a cab. With this machine I can do most everything I need and I fell in love with the hydrostatic dual speed transmission. But since it is 3 sizes larger than the BX none of the implements switch over. So additional implements were needed which added to the cost.
I was thinking that if the 1025R did 80-90% of what you need than upgrading to the next size machine up just might be more investment than its worth. The 1025r is a little more machine than the BX; so, you already have a little greater FEL lift and nicer backhoe. Plus I don’t know how much stress a 3 pt mounted back hoe would put on the tractor frame. I saw some good advice from other viewers on solving the issues you have. Very good video.
Didn’t care for the Kubota. My trees and grass aren’t orange:)
Thanks for your time and videos you put online for us. All you questions you have, I do have the same. I am just retired and I bought a tractor to... play with it. Doing jobs for the neighbors around my house, do little jobs on my house (very little... I only own an 80' X 100'... ''land''. Absolutly no experience with tractor... In fact, I will receive it in 2 weeks from now. But... I recognise myself in your questioning. I beleive I will have a lot of other questions in a year from now! But I had ''fun'' listening to your video... It kind of helped me a little bit listening your thoughts... Lets see how it will be in one year from now. See you in your next video! Have a great day!
Thanks!
I had a 1025R, and it did more than I thought it could. The uneven terrain at my homestead made for some pucker factor moments. It was a perfect entry level machine, and exceeds average homeowners needs.
My dealer gave a more than fair trade in. I came home with a 2038R tlb.
What a difference! The stability (wheel spacers) and power is night n day. The tier 4 emission system (feds) is in its associated cost. I traded in some smaller attachments to my dealer for bigger ones. You could sell them outright too without a problem. (Dedicated pallet forks is a must!) I use my 2038R alot. It makes jobs so much easier and quicker(lake effect snow). The price did hurt a bit. But its 2.5 times the 1025R tractor.
My wife was not impressed though!
Good luck!
Thanks for you input. I see the upgrade happening, but waiting for some things to pan out in the real world. I've even kicked around keeping the 1025r at our Southern Ohio property and have the 2038r (or 2032r) at home. In the mean time the 1025R is getting a work out. Take Care, Tom
@@ataleofthreecabins1025 I just got 32 acres of all woods, hills, and creeks to begin my first homestead. After doing so much research, the 2038R TLB is my decision. Do it right and do it once. It seems these things are difficult to find new down here in Southeast. Supply is low? I'm interested to see what price you end up with for TLB. Anyway, I'm looking through the comments to see if your length question was answered, So I know how long to build my shed. Thanks for your videos!
Oh, I'll add more, since you appear to be in Ohio. I just showed my wife this deal an hour ago, in Ohio (coincidence?) A new 2038R with loader, backhoe, and mower deck for $35k. I'd jump on it, but I'm 300 miles away. www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/193801999/2019-john-deere-2038r
I looked through my JD receipts, and found 2038R TLB wheel spacers (and setup fees) spot on at $35k. And that was when they first came out mid 2017. The extra $1500 for the turbo puts 5 more ponies at the PTO. well worth it for ground engaging implements, PTO generator etc. I dont have the loader or 270B attached at the moment, I just have the 60D belly mower attached. So I cant give you an overall measurement at this time. I originally wanted the 72" mower deck. My dealer said, if you have a golf course lawn...fine. otherwise it can be scalping ground grading implement. I added the 270B later. I think bundling the whole package is the best bang for your buck. Buy once! Cry once!
I moved away from JD to Massey years ago before I got in too big because of price. I now have two tractors plus implements. I probably have at least 4 or 5 implements that I wouldn’t have had if I would have spent the extra money. That said, as you said, you are in their eco system now. So as a fellow tractorian (I made this up, a breed of people who just can’t stay in the house to watch 80’s TV reruns), if your only concern is stability, try dual rear tires. Much less money than a whole new tractor and doesn’t tie you into a wider track except when you need it. Good luck, keep tractoring(this is what tractorians do), and stay safe.
John L Life is short and you deserve it. You worked hard in your life.
I ha a 32 horsepower tractor and now I have a 55 horsepower and I love it.
It took me 9 years to buy a zero turn to mow 5 acres. From my 46 inch rider to a 60 zero turn it saves me 6 hours a week. I'm wanting a 1025r or 2680 kubota with loader and box blade for 600 feet of gravel driveway. I'm using a DR pull behind grader now.
I just got my 1025R Tractor loader backhoe with the belly mower a few months ago.. It is OUTSTANDING 👍👍👍👍👍
how is the backhoe, I want that feature but live in somewhat rocky area/ hill country in Texas and wondered what others experienced. Thanks
I recommend a Mr Funnel portable fuel filter to pre-filter your diesel while filling. Takes all the water out.
Carports are relatively inexpensive. Then just fill in the sides with plywood or roofing.
Thanks for the vids. Really helpful. 13:46 is critical to me, particularly because I value the mid-mount mower deck. However, I am also weighing the other point you made about that mid-mount mower deck being much more expensive than a 54" riding lawn mower ... even a JD X300 mid-premium model will be cheaper than the deck for these compact tractors.
I did the 2032R. Have rental properties and didnt want to get to big or heavy for the work in yards. Really increased lifting capacity and same engine and hydraulics as 2038r but no turbo to go bad.
Bruce Graham g
The other thing you need to consider is the potential need for a bigger trailer. I have a 1025R and it does everything I need to do and I can maneuver around my garden beds much easier than if I had a 2 series tractor. About the only thing I would benefit as you already mentioned is the additional lift capacity on the post hole digger. Based on what I see from the many videos you have made that the 1025R is still the better choice.
Wow, how pricing has changed in the last 2 years. I recently got a quote for a new 2032R with a bucket and backhoe: $47k. I'm thinking the 1025R might be a little too small for me, but wow that's a lot of money for the next step up.
If you do upgrade you'll definitely appreciate the stability of the bigger tractor.
I work for the gas company and one of the Compressor Stations i used to operate they had a 1023 e with a loader and belly mower. That thing was dangerous on a bank. I just about rolled it over oneday and wasn't on steep ground. I much prefer a bigger tractor. I believe it's because of the tractors weight that makes it more secure and better stability. Good luck with your choice, and Happy New year.
Dean Barr Always appreciate advice from experience. Thanks and Happy New Year!
I have a 1023E myself and I briefly considered the same thing, I thing you'd be well-served to keep the 1025R, for the money and the ability to get in tight spots and your infrastructure you have built so far with your attachments, it doesn't seem like going to a 2038R would make it worth it. Unless you really increased your tractor work side hustle and could make some serious money with it. But even then, smaller yards will be out of reach for doing work on a property less than an acre or two. With a 2R, you'd increase your potential for larger work though.
I bought the 2032R in 2017, considered the 2038R but it wasn’t worth the extra money for my use. I really love mine. Now my wife loves it as much as I do
I ended up with 2. A JD 2025R and a Kioti NX4510. 2 very different tractors but they meet all my uses.
Video just finished: I'm not sure I would upgrade for the price difference. I could barely afford the 1025r, but at 0% for 84mo ($222) I figured what the heck. I have about 2acres and to me the 1025r is the perfect size. Anything bigger I think it would be bad getting close to things and tight areas and losing that tight turn radius. I can't remember if you have your rear tires filled, that may give more stability and others have put spacers on as well. I think the 2025 was just coming out when I got mine, but I couldn't do the price. So far I haven't found anything on my property the 1025r couldn't handle.
You will also gain clearance for your 3 pt. attachments. The 1025r 3 pt. is "limited" in how far it can lift your implements and the type of implements you can effectively carry. The larger tires on the 2 series provide more lift at the 3 pt. A consideration if you have areas of low clearance.
Thanks for your input. It would probably clear getting on an off my trailer better too.
Wheel spacers will help the tipsyness.
Terrific job creating/editing the video! I have some non-tractor questions for you. What are you using to film the video? What mic are you using for your audio?
A quick comment on the stability issue. I have a 2014 1023e. I was very disappointed at first with the feeling of instability on any kind of uneven ground. This was compounded by the fact I bought my tractor with a 60d autoconnect mower to mow roughly 3 acres of lawn including a steep highway right of way in the front of my property. After some research, I added fluid in the rear tires. I chose RV antifreeze. The best option is probably Rim Guard but my closest dealer was over 2 hours away. I also added the plastic lined 50 lb wheel weights. After these additions my tractor is a completely different machine! I had considered wheel spacers as well but the additional weight cured my concerns for stability. It's my opinion that the dealers ought not to be allowed to sell tractors equipped with FEL's without the ballast because of the damage you can do using the loaders without it. Fyi, I have an uncle that has a 2014 1025r TLB like yours. He thought the backhoe was sufficient ballast. At roughly 400 hours of use his front axle failed. Luckily it was covered by the powertrain warranty, but that also made a believer out of me on the ballast issue. I recommend you look into this as well if you plan on keeping your tractor. Thanks for the videos!
Kirk Brinkley wow, thanks for your input!
I dont know about green tractors, but I've been told do not do both wheel weights and tire liquid for orange tractors.
Jeffrey Freeman why?
You should look into the LS series of tractors. I own a g3038 and havenet had any problems with it what so ever
I had a 2011 - 1026R, it worked great and had 500 hours on it. Decided to go with a new 1025R. Just like the size and maneuverability. I do a little landscaping and lawn aerating and really like the twin touch hydro pedals. It is easy to transport on my trailer and does everything I need. Enjoy your comments, you have learned a lot.
I also have a 1025R and am mulling over moving up to the 3025D/E series. The wheel base is very very close to that of a 1025R, and you can use all the attachments that you currently have. The 3E/D series has full cat 1 rear 3 pt hitch, with greater lift capacity and the loader lifts more as well. The 3 E/D series has no mid pto, but I see you are not running a mid mount mower, so no worries there.
Unless you need all the 'R' bells and whistles that come with the 2032 and 2038 tractors, I would say that you would get way more bang for your buck in a 3025 D/E series tractor.
There is also a 370B backhoe for that series of tractor as well.
Really enjoy your videos. Good luck in your choice for next tractor.
Thanks for you input, lots of food for thought!
I understand your delimma. However, I don't own either at this time but are still debating the purchase between one or the other. Being a former tractor owner (gear driven only in those days) I fully understand that bigger is often better.
Rethink if you really need. Everybody saying bigger is better. Not always. If you not using full capabilities of machine, why to change ? Having big one just for mowing bigger field, but having problems around tight jobs. Like having Ferrari and living in congested city. You need to compromise. Lot of people will say I have x... y... or z... brand 45HP never having problems etc. Will compare this to battle between 45ACP and 9mm shooters. Both have pros and cons, depends what you need. Always are two sides. 1025R is very good machine. You have invest lot of into attachments, so stay with it, and being retired will give you more time.
I think you are making the right choice by holding on until a better deal or a greater need arises. I would like to have heard more about the depreciation value of the 1025r in terms of what the dealer valued on trade because that would be a big factor for me also. I always watch your videos and have a 1025r myself and I always see that the 1025r gets the job down, sometimes its a little slower but who doesn't love seat time on the tractor. I enjoy your videos and enjoyed these comparison videos.
I'm going through the same debate right now. 125 hrs on my 2019 1025 and, while I absolutely love my rig, would like more hp and higher lift on the FEL. So I'm looking at a 2038r. My needs are mixed: 1 acre cabin needing utilities installed, footings and posts dug, and then tilling and eventually just mowing. Also, 2 rentals that will need serious back yard redos in next year. BUT, I also use it occasionally for construction, mostly forks and back hoe. Hence the need for more lifting ability and height. To your depreciation question: I was quoted $15,000 for my 1025 trade in a few days ago (w FEL and back hoe). And about $32,000 for a new 2038 (w/ BH). Interesting that the 2032r was only $1,000 less. Also, fyi, o% avail for 5 yrs but 1.9% for 6 and 2.9% for 7.
I bought the 1025r just because of the tight turning radius. Thought about the 2025 just for the bigger tires. Kind of wish I got that. For me the 1025r does what I need it to do. Think it has found its home.
I know you like your green and so do I, but I’m getting a Massey Ferguson 1740M with cab tomorrow. Worth looking at and if you’re financing they offer 0% interest for 84 months and no money down. All the brands seem to have different bells and whistles but at the end of the day they’re all about the same.
Also...I have a client in North Royalton so I go by that dealer by you.
when i saw him dump his trash by the road my mouth dropped. i need this in my life. the size looks perfect too.
We now have the dedicated cans for the automated garbage truck, but I have a carrier that clamps on the bucket to haul those too.
I have drove by that JD dealer before of yours I have a customer I service across the street from there
Definitely get the 38hp. No issues after 4 months. My new machine is a JD 2019 3038e with backhoe with a manual thumb. I think you’ll be very happy with the 2038r.
I m really enjoying your videos , where did you buy the storage racks ?
The racks are considered mini scaffolding. You can find them at Tractor supply, HF, Northern, Home Depot. Shop around, they go on sale frequently. I also use them as scaffolding when working on my home’s exterior.
The 1025r with the loader/backhoe just barely fits in my garage. Size matters.
I retired a year ago and the money I spent on the John Deere was originally saved up for a new car. My old one still worked good and I drive very little (20,000 miles in 10 years). So the 1025r was a better investment.
The tight turning radius of the 1025r allows me to remove fallen trees on the mountain road behind my house. A larger tractor couldn’t do it without falling off the mountain.
bigger is always better. you can always grow into it..
What about spacers and the dual tire option for back. Would that not help with your stability issue. Seems that was your biggest complaint about 1025r be alot cheaper than buying a new tractor.
What about liquid in tires that would help some.
You have talked about cost in regard to difference I am assuming new to new. Will the dealer give you 100% of your purchase price on a trade? The price difference may be greater then you think. HP is great, for me additional lift capacity is what I really desire but to purchase a new tractor for 300lbs more lift capacity. Not worth the cost difference for me just for that. Now if we are talking cab tractor with heat and a/c that would be good. I have a red tractor wanted to upgrade for all the same reasons. I wound up get a cab and adjusting the hydraulic pressure up to get a little more lift capacity, I know not the best thing to do but...
I'm not sure about the bigger tractors, but the 1025r and the Green tax I seen no such thing around me. BX23s was about $500-1,000 more but felt cheaper to me and all other brands like Massey, RK, etc were about the same price. I'll pay an extra couple hundred to have the convenience features like the loader control on the fender, fender lights, loader bucket level indicator, etc at that time (2018). Mac's rule as well, good choice! Can have problems with anything electronics, but I am a IT guy and supported both, the Mac is more reliable and far less problems!
Start looking at the used market.
Lots of good low hour machines out there.
I have seen some real deals at auctions as well, might check out trigreens west of Columbus if your Ohio place is within a couple hours.
Bottom line is your money your decision.
I stopped at Bridgeport and purchased a new 2038R with loader backhoe and mower last week. $34,644.75 before tax!! They have deals on 2019 remaining stock. Was quoted 1,500 more for a 2020 version. This was after markup for 84 month financing. If you purchase for 48 months, it would be $32,912.51. That also includes fluid filled tires. I couldn't pass up the deal, so I went ahead and purchased it. Ag-Pro want 38,500 for the same thing. Just food for thought.
I'm in Atlanta and I just saw that deal at Bridgeport a few hours ago and posted it here for Three Cabins. Now I see you post the same thing. Damn! It's tempting to drive on up there and buy! But where do I go for warrantee service? AgPro? Man! I have some serious tractor fever!
To save space putting in shed, I take off the bucket and leave it outside, saves about 10-12 inches, no def fluid needed for the 2 or 3 series. Highly recommend the 2038r.
No DEF fluid needed, but, there is a DPF filter that constantly needs Regen(s). The DPF's are not as carefree as some would have you believe. I had one ( on a JD 4066R), and I will never have one again. If you aren't running your tractor at WOT all the time, the regen can soots up real easy, real fast. And when the tractor can no longer clean the can out, you have to have it cleaned at the dealer. And it can only be cleaned so many time and then a new regen canister is needed. Don't even ask what they cost, as you better be sitting down when you find out the price. If you stay with Deere, your options are 1025R, 2025R and the 3025D and 3025E series. No DPF's with any of those.
Wow! Thanks for you input.
Stick with your 1025r as I have a 1025r tlb and a 3046r. When I'm on the 3046r I loose viability and maneuverability but I love the electronic transmission controls, the air ride seat, the hydraulic remotes, and the brute force. Feels like I'm driving a tractor trailer vs a pickup truck. If your budget will not justify the addition of a bigger tractor, keep the smaller one and rent a larger tractor or mini excavator depending on the application. Bottom line, if I had to choose one over the other I would stick with the 1025r. The ideal size tractor would be a 2025r with 35 HP and a bigger hydraulic pump.. Problem is stuffing the the particulate filter under the hood and still being able to see over the hood.
You should check out Tractor Time With Tim. He really has a very good comparison between the tractors you're looking at. It's worth a look plus he's got a flail mower review on there as well. He's got a ton of content.
So what you have is good, but RENT when need more power, I always go with a CASE Skid steer, and wheels or tracks mean bigger job.
But a CASE can do some serious damage to the Phase 1, and then 8-16 hrs later you are only out 500-900 depends on your area.
That is about 2 payments on the larger tractor! so Overall, RENTALS are all over the place, you get that best power for the right job
and then the rest of the you can use your baby 1025R to do all the fun and easy stuff !
I love having options, so getting the 1025R FILB was a no brainer.
I have the setup you looking at. I'll measure tomorrow. I just got mine November 21. Right now 84 0%. Good time to jump
bones549 Thanks!
@@ataleofthreecabins1025 czcams.com/video/HUdt8dBWJMc/video.html. Hope this helps. Any other questions let me know
It’s interesting how having a 1025r makes you realize how great it is to have one...which gets a guy to thinking about going bigger🤣
They real main difference between 2032r and 2038r is the 2038r has a turbo and the 2032r does not but both still contain the tier 4 emissions. But for emissions all you have to do is run at a high rpm like 2000 for working. The dpf (diesel particulate filter) constantly regens even if not parked regen. So basically it uses heat and pressure to burn off the soot. So you wont have a problem regening if your at a higher rpm.
Hi....was wondering where you got the frame for your carry-all?
Tractor Supply for around $150 www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-carry-all?cm_vc=-10005&st=carry%20all
Rural King has them also.
I would subscribe to Good Works Tractor channel and watch for good used deals.
The 2r and the 3r are supposed to be interchangeable between the two models.
You can get into a used 6-series for that money!
I'd stick to the 1025R, you have a good working machine there and you have all these attachments that goes with it. Do you really need bigger and stronger ? I think that your tractor fit with the propriety you got. Don't need bigger.
👍🤠
The regen is actually not a problem as it does it automatically and I have never had to stop using my 2038r
They say you may experience slight power loss but has never been an issue for me
No DEF with my 2038r either fyi
Appreciate the info, Thank You!
Dang, my dealer quoted me $35K (before tax) for a 2038R last September. Afraid to see what they’ll be at this year..
This is my opinion and mine only. It looks like you're getting your jobs done with the tractor you have now. Is it really worth more money to upgrade just to get a very little more than what you have. Just my opinion.
Thanks for the input. I have a lot of projects coming up when the weather breaks and each one I'll be critiquing, would a series 2 have made it easier or harder.
I think almost every one that starts with a small tractor and actually USES it, goes thru this. I started with a 22hp Yanmar, 13 years later went to a 33hp New Holland another 12 years, then 10 years ago to a 41hp Yanmar. I 'think' I've hit the sweet spot for me in terms of work ability.....but who knows.....ahahhaaaaaa
I don't see you as a guy who looks for advice but, I am going to offer you some anyway. I would not trade in my tractor if I upgraded. Keep it or sell it out-right is the best move to make.
I think the best option is keep it and get a second. The supply and demand is not a good time right for me right now. So I'll wait. Take Care, Tom
Putting duals on the rear of the 1025r for mowing is a cheaper option,
Turn signals?
If I trade in my 1025r for a 2038r does my attachments that I have right now will they all fit the 2038r?
I would use all of mine.
@@ataleofthreecabins1025 it fits?
@@dannyboy9254 Any 3 pt most certainly, loader attachments yes, MMM probably not, Snow blowers don’t know.
I pulled the trigger with the trade now I have my 2038r. Am glad I did. Feels more like a real tractor. And looks awesome. I wish I could afford the 1025 as well. Each one has their advantages
Dam if you do,dam if you don't, retirement coming,others has tractor around your area also,but all bigger,yours is smaller fits anywhere, something to think,I'm sure you'd love to go bigger,more expensive on tires etc. Your choice.a job you ask for money is the same, takes longer but you will be retired, time is all you got,good luck my friend.
If you upgraded to a 3 or 4 series you would have to sell all the attachments you have for your 1025R tractor and you have to buy new attachments for your 2038R tractor. You probably should go to a 3 series tractor with more horsepower, but the tractor would be able to use your tiller and lawn rake since it was designed for that series tractor anyway. If I was you and decided to upgrade I would keep the tractor you have and just get another one and see if you can get a package deal since you will have some work which the 1025R can handle easily.
I've recently done a few projects where the compact size was a plus, a few other where more horsepower would have come in handy.
I can’t believe the 2038 R doesn’t have a 3 speed transfer case. The medium gear is so important that I use it most of the time. High is too fast and low is too low for lots of work! I would have bought one but that was a factor for a different brand.
I have 2038 and backhoe is subframe mount
If you bought one twenty years ago you would be on your second tractor.
Most likely, but I would still be awaiting my first hernia and hip surgery:)
any idea how many times you can rent a mini excavator for the cost of that 9000 dollar JD backhoe? DOnt buy it
That is true. There are so many times I use it spur of the moment that would not be worth taking the time to rent one. It's one of those things you think in a luxury at first, but hard to live without overtime. I do it use much more than I thought I would. Take Care, Tom
I hear ya. I have a backhoe on a case 580. They are crazyhandy.....but I got mine stupid cheap
Wait! In a couple more years it’ll all be electric
Had you bought orange you'd be in an industry standard eco system instead of this proprietary garbage. Keep in mind I don't have an orange tractor, but I immediately ruled out JD because they don't use skid steer attachments. Unwilling to pay the green tax.
Proprietary might be a harsh work that makes it sound like you can only use JD attachments. There are several manufacturer of grapples, fork, plow, etc. that use the JK quick attach system. The actually make a quick attach adapter for skid steer, but that's just extra pounds add where every pound counts in a sub compact. Thanks for you thoughts!
2038r is just under 16'
Cool thanks!