Two Big saws from Erbauer and Triton [**Gifted][video 442]
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- čas přidán 4. 03. 2021
- In this video I take a quick look at couple of larger than average mid-range #plungesaws, and try to figure out the difference between them. Re. blade sizes mentioned in the video, there is a wider choice of blades at the 184 x 20mm size, which begs the question - why design your saw around a 185mm blade?? OEM blades may be available from third parties.
**In the interests of transparency the #Triton saw was supplied for review, and the #Erbauer saw I bought myself for the purposes of this comparison. I have not been paid to make this video or say nice things about the products. I need an agent. Or an accountant...
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Other videos mentioned:-
Cheap vs Cheapest - • Cheap vs cheapest [vid...
Festool or Mafell - • Big Decision: Festool ...
A Lidl blade upgrade - • A Lidl Blade Upgrade [...
Tracksaw workshop - bit.ly/TracksawWorkshop (playlist)
More about blades - • Same blade, different ...
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Used/featured in this video:-
Erbauer plunge saw - www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er... (links to specs and full manual)
Triton TTS 185 kit - www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Prod... (links to specs and manual)
Festool MFT - amzn.to/2x49HHE (US: amzn.to/2J25aKy)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2P2c5nP (US:amzn.to/2LgIsye)
Other handy gear:-
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2P2c5nP (US:amzn.to/2LgIsye)
Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RT
Mirock 500mm T-ruler - etsy.me/365P0KE
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool T18 drill/driver - amzn.to/2QAHpK1 (US: amzn.to/2RPuOCR)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
+++++++++ - Jak na to + styl
![£5 Fix for the Festool Droop [video 448]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ga46Tdpzod8/mqdefault.jpg)
![£5 Fix for the Festool Droop [video 448]](/img/tr.png)
Once I’d replaced the blade, reset the 90deg set. Fettled the base plate to run parrallel with the blade the Erbauer cuts like a dream. Bought a 1400mm track. Evolution.
Peter I would love to see a procedure for checking square and adjustments for same. Maybe on a few models if they have significant difference 👍
"I would never recommend the removal of a factory safety feature. Especially one that appears to be secured with a single screw from underneath, so it appears it is something you'll likely have to live with." Wiser words have never been spoken. And while, indeed, it might APPEAR that there's only a single Phillips #2 screw and a radial spring holding the toggle in place, or that less than 5 full turns might release same, it's important to note that we, the users, cannot be trusted to shield ourselves from the fickleness of fate. There's just no telling what disasters could ensue from their absence.
I just wanted to toss out there that the sagacity of your insight coupled with the stoicism of its delivery just earned you a like and a subscribe, good sir. I appreciate a man who looks out for his viewers.
You are *so* good at this now.
Love it!
Thanks Frank! Proof that if you do,it often enough, you stop being terrible, lol! 😂👍
Sore saw options 😜
Out takes priceless👍😉
Thank you Peter for a great video, informative and entertaining. Stay safe.
Thanks Rob, you too! 👍
Would like to see the other comparison. I wouldn't ever cut 3 at once. The potential for me is 3 errors in one go instead of one.
That sound like efficiency for me.. 3 errors in one go rather than 3 errors one at a time.
I feel you. I built some shop furniture and doubled up the sheets to save time. Turned out that the saw was not exactly 90°...
Thanks for all of your track saw videos Peter. I was able to make an informed decision and splash out on a makita cordless track saw. I absolutely love it! It's so quiet, it's so accurate and I tend to use it outside just on a sacrificial sheet of MDF. my table saw and chop saw are hardly being used as the cordless track saw is so convenient 🙌
Excellent Barrie - glad to hear it! 🙌👍👍
I first used a track saw to cut up plywood sheets to replace really nasty old floorboards on a suspended floor. I bought the Parkside saw following Peter's video on the same, It did the job .
It was ok, but the tracks it came with and the limited space I had to work in ,meant that I experienced several nasty kickbacks - So Scary.
After fitting the sub floor, when it came to cut the engineered wood floor I thought i would upgrade my Parkside with a Triton blade and Evolution tracks ( again ideas from Peter). Seemed perfect but the poor QA on the Parkside meant that I rounded the head of the spindle bolt trying to undo it!
I replaced that machine with this Erbauer.
My God the difference was amazing., smoother cuts , safer cuts , faster etc. Yes the kickback device sucked ( It fell off as others have said), the depth gauge is an estimate at best, but for the money i think it is amazing. Can I mention SkillBuilder channel here? ( Ok I have now) - they could not see any difference between the Triton and the Erbauer. they thought it was good value - I agree - with knobs on.
🙌👍👍
Another fantastic review which has come at the right time for me as I'm going to be purchasing a tracksaw in the next few weeks. Thank you Peter
Cheers Anthony! 👍👍
This is a great video Peter. Many thanks
I do see quite a few 185 x 30 blades are shipped with reducer rings to fit the 20mm bore
Great, yet again. Point about blade availability is a big problem... Well done.
Thanks! 👍👍
Thanks Peter :) I am literally a day away from purchasing my first track saw as I have some 2.3mtr frames to make up for a shop fit. I was trying to decide between these two saws and with this video, I have made my choice. I already have an Erbauer chop saw a couple of drills and thicknesser so that's the way I am going to go. Excellent video as always...
Thanks Phil - glad it helped! 👍
I've got the standard Triton TTS 1400 165mm saw and it's ferociously loud too.
I find it very difficult to make choice. Anyway, this very interesting. Thank you.
I do like all your videos. Over the last 18 months or so I've been slowly doing up my house and I built myself a 10*10 workshop in the garden using 3*2 and 4*2. Workshop is for woodwork and also my electronics work with IoT and general electronics, the workshop is great, my first big woodwork project. I also built the work surfaces, drawers and doors inside it too.
Last year I sold all my cheap Aldi etc power tools and upgraded everything to Evolution tools. For my table saw, sliding mitre saw and circular saw. I use the standard blades that came with all three saws for general cuts about 99% of the time, but for finer cleaner cuts I brought high tooth count spare blades from Saxton for them all, I'm no expert but Saxton appears to make some excellent blades.
I'm really happy with my tools including my cheap router with Chinese bits. I even managed to make jigs for creating my chopping boards and stools.
I've really enjoyed watching your videos, I've learned a lot from them, I even made shaker doors in your preferred way thanks to your shaker door video.
I like videos like this one, but I personally use a long straight edge from Silverline for all my long cuts, I don't want to sell my tools (again) just to upgrade, maybe in the far future.
Anyway, keep up with making these excellent videos for others like me to learn from, they are invaluable tutorials.
I'm bound to comment more on your videos, I have plenty to say but I don't usually write comments.
Thank you.
Peter...
Thanks Peter. Appreciate the feedback! 👍👍
Excellent review. I am well sorted with my Festool TS55 - but if I was buying again then I would likely spring for the Triton Big Boy and immediately set to work removing that ‘single screw’.
Thanks Norman! 👍
Thanks for that interesting comparison
Love your attitude to the evil kick back device - ‘do not remove it, even if it is only secured by a single screw’ lol!
I've had the Erbauer for a few months and used it to make shelves in my new garage which has been a relatively rough and ready job, but my brother has been using it for outfitting his campervan cutting laminated lightweight ply and it's been making really nice cuts. The supplied rails are a pain in the arse to keep joining, to they've been relegated to cross cut duties, with the longer cuts being taken care of with a brace of Makita rails, a 3m one and a 1.5m. To be honest the reason I bought the Erbauer was it was a nice middle ground between the cheaper supermarket saws and the 'proper' saws. The deeper cut was the final sway, I'd like to have a go at making an epoxy table at some point, so wanted the extra depth for cutting a thick slab. Ill have to give some other blades a try and see how it get on........... Oh and the anti kickback 'fell' off mine!
Great feedback, thanks! Yes, the Erbauer have a great cut right out of the box. Don’t have an issue joining the rails, though linger rails are available from many sources. 👍👍
Great simple to the point review thanks 👍🏻
Thanks! 👍
Great and informative as usual. I'm surprised about the blade availability issue. Live the out takes BTW. Relatable and hilarious.
Thanks! Yes, the blade thing surprised me too. 🤷♂️ 👍
Scheppach has one with 75mm depth of cut and a 210mm blade. I got mine pretty cheap for about €100 but i dont know the retail
About to buy the erbauer so great that a video just came up
Thanks! 👍
Informative as always, thank you Peter! Interestingly, for a long time there hasn't been much to report on Festools TS 55, but this week I received notification about a TS55 F version, and new types of blades for this 'facelift' machine. Haven't had the time to look into it, but maybe my go to guy on track saws is already on it and a video about this is forthcoming? No pressure, of course...
Thanks Caspar! I’ve only had the briefest of glances over the specs, but it looks like they’re making a lot of claims about a new blade design, basically. I’ll have more of a dig into it in due course and report back. 👍👍
Got it, both saws don't have the plunging anti kick back that the Festool or Mafell have. A cheaper way to go. THX for the review.
I left back the Lidl tracksaw a few months ago as the motor started to smoke when
cutting 18mm mdf
Hi Peter. Another very interesting, informative and interesting video. Always love seeing the the comparisons between different tools. Would be very interested in the 2 Triton saw comparisons and how they stack up against each other. Keep safe and look forward to your future productions
Thanks Rich. Tbh the two Teuton saws are almost identical, apart from the blade size and increased capacity. They both work on the same rails, I think they have the same motor. 👍👍
The bloopers had me cracking up. Good vid though. I do think it's about time for me to get a track saw. Thanks for the info
Thanks! 👍
Good video Peter ! thanks
Thanks Michael! 👍
Great video and info about blade availability
Thanks! 👍
The anti-kickback feature would be the first to get removed and stored in a "parts" bag. For the novice, the feature is, as you stated, a good idea, but it's rather like a magazine safety on a pistol, pretty useless. That will be contentious to many but the experienced. Excellent review Peter.
Thanks! Being British I don’t really know what a ‘magazine safety on a pistol’ is, but it sounds kinda pointless, assuming you already have one in the spot, right?? 🤷♂️
Another great and informative vid thanks Peter, think I'll stick with my Festool,would like to see the comparison vid , as always thanks for posting and stay safe,
Cheers Paul! 👍👍
New subscriber here - thanks for such a clear and informative video! I've also watched your parkside videos too. The info about lack of spare parts for Erbauer I was not aware of, for me that's a big issue so I know now to look elsewhere. Thanks Peter!
Hi Tom, and welcome! Yes, the business about the spare parts is a shame; I don't know how many parts would be genuinely interchangeable with the Triton, but the fact the neither company sells a spare blade for this oddball size isn't exactly encouraging!
I’ve got a macalister brand saw, probably from the same factory. It works fine in a no frills way. The screw “fell out” of the anti-kickback mech, i’ve not lamented its passing!
Yes, I’m told they can vibrate themselves loose! 🤔👍
Are you sure it fell out ?
Great vid, I have the safety stop on mine and as said it is beyond me on how to disable with the single screw underneath :)
I think they work themselves loose, over time. 🤔👍
I have just bought the Erbauer track saw this week, very impressed so far especially with the quality of the cut, a big step up from the very cheap circular saw I was using previously. A few niggles with getting it to run smoothly over the join in the tracks but working ok now, think I will upgrade to the longer Evolution tracks soon. I did consider going for a Makita but couldn't really justify the price at the moment, my thoughts are that as they both run on the same tracks, any accessories I get I will be able to hang onto and use if/when I upgrade to a higher-end model in a few years time.
Building an MFT style workbench this week and with a couple of jigs from your tracksaw workshop I should have most of the capability of a mitre saw and table saw all rolled into one. Ideal for me as I don't have a dedicated workspace and have to work in the garden.
Thanks for all of your videos and tutorials, I have learnt a lot so far that I hope will help me get the best from my new track saw.
Thanks Tom! That’s fantastic feedback, and I’m so pleased the videos have helped! 🙌👍👍
I've got the entry level Evolution R185CCSX track saw bundle with the 1020mm three part rail. I have to say the rail is dreadful. To get it straight you have one side flush and the other with a 2mm gap at the join. I was intending to buy the longer Evolution track, but if they are as bad as this one, I think I'll have to look elsewhere. The saw, although it has limits (it's not a plunge saw and setting the depth is a faff), has done everything I've thrown at it so far.
I have had the standard triton for a while now, i saw a video i cant remember who from but the anti kickback knob if turned with a little force will just stick there nicely! :) just saying! :P
I’m looking for a small track saw and would love to see a head to head of the budget saws. I use makita tools mostly but it would be good to see how more inexpensive options stack up against the makita offering.
The Tracksaw workshop playlist has every of mine tracksaw related, including a number of entry level comparisons. 👍👍
Any idea how putting the erbaur blade on the triton and vice versa affects the quality of cut? It’s quite irrelevant but I’m curious...
As always very educational content I've just diped my toe into the plunge saw world I've purchased an excel plunge saw but they do not offer a 1.5 length track do you know if any track will fit or must I suffer with trying to get two to line up eventually thanks
You should be able to get the excel 1500 rail - Excel guiderail - bit.ly/2YJ66g9. Be aware it’s a different pattern to the rails that come with the saw, and you’ll probably need to trim the lip off the rail to make it work with the saw, but it’s the best value 1500 rail you can get. I showed the trimming technique in this video - How to Trim a GuideRail - and why you’d want to! [video 468]
czcams.com/video/QqTJ4SrRD1M/video.html
Hi Peter. I bought the erbauer track saw and was initially very happy.. But that soon changed..... After fitting 2 kitchens the saw started to loose power and stop under load.. Even cutting 9mm ply it would stop. Plus I'd put a blade upgrade into it. So I took it back to screwfix.. Long story short, I got a refund and bit the bullet and purchased a festool ts55. Iv got to say, I'm very impressed to say the least.. I'm running evolution track without any issues.. All good so far... Ps. Love your videos
Sorry to hear about the erbauer woes, but the benefit of buying these kind of saws is that exchange or refund is never an issue! And congrats on the Festool! Great saws, love mine. Thanks for letting me know! 👍👍👍
I have the erbauer, it's pretty decent but when I am cutting 18mm plywood sheets the waste side is singeing. I am cutting on the flat with a spoiler board underneath so the isn't twisting and hence rubbing. I wouldn't care but it fills the room with smoke! Not sure what I can do about it I've tried different blade speeds and cutting slowly through the wood...
Great video Pete. Saxton do a cracking 185 x 20 x 80 th blade for saws I use one on my mitre compound saw really clean cut...... brilliant outtakes lol
Thanks! Yeah, I think I mention Saxton, great blades! 👌👍
I have been watching your tracksaw workshop and I love it. You made me realize that I could actually buy the MFT table and the saw for what I paid last year for my table saw and my mitersaw. Those take at least the double amount of space, and whatever I do, the dust collection sucks. Might consider making a change.
Thanks! I’ll be making my own version of an MFT before too long. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop do you know anything about the UJK table and their parf guide sistem? Here in Denmark the UJK table will end up being a bit more than half the price of festool.
I only know what I’ve seen on the Axminster website or from Parfitt. I don’t like the trestles personally, but it seems like a solid bench - for me, a hinged rail will always win in the workshop though! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for your time. MFT it is😅
Nice video Peter thanks for enlightenment coz I'm about to purchase one, it seems that the two saw are doing well in term of cutting ,what about the dust comparison? Thanks
Thanks! Dust collection? Pretty poor on both saws tbh, but that’s typical until you get to around the Makita level tbh. 👍
Oh! Reading over my last comment, I just had this idea! A same track comparison. All the saws that run on the same track compared. Meaning a Festool v Maktiva v Triton comparison.
Deal! 🙌👍
I think I read somewhere that the saws that have the ‘anti kick back’ feature don’t have the drop down riving knife. Maybe, as a Festool user, that’s why you haven’t seen kick back. I have the Erbauer and have certainly felt sticking while pushing through the cut.
Just a thought Peter.
Another great video.
Thanks Graeme. Or perhaps it’s just my exemplary plunging technique?? 😂 In all seriousness there are lots of higher-end saws without riving knives or anti-kickback things, and I do think it would be much better if it was switchable, like the DeWalt has. 👍👍
Hi Peter, thanks very much for the video content. Helping us diy'ers and wanna be woodworkers through the perils of the jobs. Just a quick question, I'm going to set up a track saw table like yours and thought might be worth adding into the table some T track with clamps to hold down the smaller bits and pieces (90° track to top rail). Do you think worth adding them to the table or the track saw weight/rubber underneath and holding it is sufficient to keep things without moving? Thanks again, Col
Thanks Col. honestly, if you have an MFT-style too with homes in then you already have ample clamping opportunities right there in the table already. If it’s a regular bench top, then some t-track may help - though a grid of holes may be easier, and you won’t have to worry about hitting them with the saw! HTH. Peter
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter for the time in replying. I am going to buy a MFT top too and fit it to my bench. Would you suggest adding some support rails underneath to ensure the MFT top doesn't sag? Of course it has to stand off the table top so i can get the clamps underneath.
Continued success on the channel Peter!
I've got the Erbauer saw and with regards to spares I've recently ordered a replacement pair of adjustment cams from the Triton website and they were exactly the same, the old ones kept catching on the join in the rails and chipped away, have changed to Makita rails now.
Another point worth noting is having changed to Makita rails I found that even with the new adjusting cams fitted the saw was sloppy on the rails so have had to put the some tape on the side of the channel on the saw opposite the cams to take up the slack. This also meant that I couldn't join the supplied rails to the Makita rails and make cuts. Happy enough with the actual saw buy think I'll end up getting a Makita or used Festool saw soon.
Thanks! That’s interesting about the rails; the ones I have are very similar to the Makita rails, buy yes, always best to keep to the same make where possible, and avoid mixing brands when joining. 👍
I was just about to ask if triton spares might fit erbauer. My adjustment cams won't snug up to the erbauer rsils anymore but are ok on my evolution but I'd like to have 2 rail options, especially as the evolution I find quite slippy. Its worth noting that I've never had great success with the erbauer and I've had it for a couple of years now. The cut doesn't seem the run against the splinter guard. I recently noticed that the blade is out of parallel with the track and only cuts cleanly pulling the saw backwards. So I need to try and resolve that.
@@rockboy93 www.tritontools.uk.com/tts1400sparespricelist.html
Item 104 is the adjustment cams, £3 for 2 cams and £7 postage😡
That's exactly how I feel about the saw, had it for 6 months and it's had plenty of use and for the money it's fine but I always feel like it's a bit comprised, mine randomly seems to take chunks out of the splinter guard so am having to reset them otherwise the splinter guard is no good for lining up cuts, it the same on the new Makita rails and the dust port gets annoying that it doesn't swivel.
@@timbarrow8528 totally agree. The splinter guards often have nicks diagonally in them and am hoping that's because the blade isn't square and I've started a cut in the middle of the rails. I think I've probably smashed the saw out of square as it gets thrown about in my van as it's a state in there and I've dropped the saw numerous times. Totally agree with the dust port, it is angled directly where you'd like your wrist tk be most of the time and I was struggling to find high tpi good quality blades for it. I don't know if it is the saw or the rails but I rarely make cuts without clamps. Every time I think "it's only" or "I'll just hold it firmly" they wander and mess up the cut
Again, even though I spend my working day on the tools, on my lunch break and even after work, I'm watching others review tools or build stuff. I've got a problem. Interesting stuff Peter. Annoying when you get odd blade sizes limiting choice - blade choice being somewhat a recent convenience. Not limited to budget brands either. Not a lot of choice for my bigger Mafell K85 and KSP 85. Though their own blades are superb (if costly). Hilti has fantastic blades the same size too. Very few budget ones though. I have found I can sneak in a Freud which is a couple mm bigger. Maybe the same blag for the Erbaur and Triton?
Cheers Stew! I think it’s only the Mafell 185mm blade / saw that’s made any of them available tbh! There are a few 184mm around, but again no that many - never occurred to me to try anything bigger though, thanks - I’ll give it a try. 👍👍
i wonder if those saws have interchangeable parts
Trend seem to do a number of 180 mm blade options.thank you for comparison.
Thanks, yes, but they only do one at 185 x 20mm 👍👍
Is it necessary to clamp pieces securely when cutting or can a DIY er depend on rails to remain stable . Thanks in advance , by the way I like your clear instructions and advice , especially the lack of music from start to finish . Music is for party time .
Thank you! I’d say 99% of my cuts are unclamped, but a lot depends on how ‘grippy’ the rails are; Festool are better than most, IME, but I’d always clamp for an important cut.👍👍
That's quite a collection of track saws that you are developing...
And I’m not done yet... 😆👍
I have the Mafell and the blade deflection is unacceptable even in 18mm BB So I dread to think of the performance of a cheaper saw on thicker material. That’s the problem with thin kerf blades that nobody seems to talk about.
Hi Peter just a quick one does the erbauer run on any other tracks or just it’s own ?
It’ll run on any Makita or Festool-pattern rail. 👍
Hi Peter,
Im looking for a tracksaw, around the 250 pound only need a small track what would you reccomend I'm cutting scaffold boards and beech planks csnt really reach makita level so appreciate any advice
Hiya. That’s a tricky place to be price-wise tbh - well above the ‘supermarket specials’ and entry-level saws, but not quite up to the cost of the Makita - can be a bit of a no-man’s land. I’d probably look at the Triton with the regular-sized blade - decent enough warranty, soft start motor, decent warranty and spares, runs on regular Festool and Makita tracks. With your budget you’ll have change for an extra length of track, clamps etc… Or maybe spring for the larger Triton if you feel you can use the extra 15mm depth of cut. HTH. P 👍
I still have and use the Titan I got based on your initial cheap tool Vs Festool video. It's been abused, loaned out and double abused and it still works great, in fact I got myself a couple of benchdogs guide rail dogs and it's even better. It's worked well beyond expectation and I've had more than my money's worth out of it. The only downsides for me are the dust extraction (which could be my fault) and the fact that if it exploded tomorrow I couldn't buy another one. Screwfix now have a Mac Allister saw listed that does look the same (costs £99) only in grey and blue with a 165mm blade and a claimed depth of cut of 59mm which might be an option.
Thanks! Yes, the old Titan was brilliant for the money. Haven’t got my hands on a MacAllister yet, but it’s on my list. Those depth of cut claims are almost always off the rail btw - put them in a rail and you lose ~6mm 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Same saw, exactly, just a different label & they changed the accent colour from orange to blue.
Thanks for this comparison Peter, I just purchased the Erbauer saw three weeks ago after having watched a lot of your videos and others. I was torn between the Evolution, the Draper and the Erbauer. I bought the Erbauer as I've had other tools by them before. Also the track on the Evolution is in 3 parts??? so not handy. I lasted a day with the anti Kickback thingy before it miraculously unscrewed itself and went to live in the rail bag.
I've been using the Dewalt Trim saw for years now and my one observation is that I feel all the Plunge saws are built the wrong way round. I think the motor should be on the right hand side of the blade, then you are not leaning over the saw to to set depths etc. Unless ofcourse the original designer was Lefty and and was getting one back on all us Right handed people.
Love the Channel and your relaxed presentation style, and no annoying music.
Thanks Tom! Yes, those anti-kickback things can work their way loose, I believe. 🤔 😆 The only tracksaw I know that’s a ‘leftie’ is the Kreg and we don’t get that over here. 🤷♂️👍👍
Got my erbauer cheap 2nd/3rd hand, no anti kick back on it. No idea what could of happened to it 🤣
Love the out takes Peter. 😂😂
😆👍
I'd like to see a more in depth video on saw blades. Number of teeth, teeth design, kerf etc for which job. When should you upgrade the the provided blade eg I've a Makita I assume its OK
Me too, I have the DeWalt 520
There's a track saw here in Australia with a 230mm blade. Brand is AGP which I've never really heard of
Thanks! There’s a Scheppach at that blade size (PL75??) wouldn’t surprise me if it was a clone. Festool TS75 uses a 220mm blade I think. 👍
Top review👍 how do they compare to the Lidi/Parkside?
Thanks! Different kind of saw really - bigger & heavier because of the additional capacity. If you don’t need that extra 12/13mm of cut, then the park side is a good saw. Link in the description to my review. 👍👍
Hi Peter, thanks for another great video and track saw series. At the end of this video you mentioned the smaller Triton track saw, have done any reviews on this? U can't see any and I'm wondering how it compares to the Macallister
Hi. I haven’t no, but basically it’s *very* similar but with soft start, a slight bigger motor and availability of spare parts - basically a rinse/repeat of the conclusion here. 👍
I have the Erbauer, What is also NOT available is spare track or an extension to the provided track. When I asked they pointed me to Makita! I also have an issue with that anti kickback and have disabled it. another negative is the retaining nut for the blade is of poor quality and will probably have to be replaced at the next blade change, the hex is not deep enough and wears through use. having said all that, it has done trojan work and for the price it's a great saw for me an amatuer woodworker.
I've got two cheap saws, the Macalister and the rutlands one. The rutlands doesn't have the anti kickback but I definitely prefer the Macalister. I can't see the point in choosing the erbaur over the Macalister. Fifty extra notes for being able to cut a bit deeper isn't really worth it especially since you can't find new blades easily. I'd like to see how the smaller Triton is in comparison though
Does the Macalister one work with other rails ie. Makita, Evolution, festool?
@@barrykerr2346 yup. I own evolution and Triton rails. The Triton rail is an exact match to the supplied Macalister rails but can be bought as a 1500mm rail. The evolution ones work but they aren't as well made
As I wasn't brought up on plunge tools I've always been more concerned about the tool and workpiece slipping away from me rather than kickback. Getting more confident with use but still have concerns at times.
👍👍
Hi Peter, I have been using a track saw (admitting that I am using a cheap one from Liddle) for five of six years now and I admit I do not use it every day but I have never experienced kickback once.
I had kickback from my Parkside track saw once and it ruined a kitchen worktop I was fitting...the next day I bought the makita saw
Great to see a new trackie vid!
Are Triton putting their slidey strips on either side of the central rail now? I remember the point you made about the *tiny* chance of rocking the saw with them both on one side - I'm very good at defying odds to mess up a cut so that always made me a little weary of choosing Triton rail for a 1.5m upgrade :)
Thanks! No, it was the evolution rails that had/have both the glide strips to the right of the rib. I’ve never done a video on the Triton saw/rail before. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Oh of course, thanks I think I got confused by orange :D
Bob nuts on re Erbauer. My first sliding miter saw was said brand. 10inch brilliant thing cut square as, problem no spares when the switch died.
My money on that price point would be Triton all day for the above reason
Thank! My thinking too. 👍
Got my erbauer for 30 quid at a boot sale, new blade and splinter guard and it's all good. For that price if it breaks who cares, the track is worth that tbh. No idea what I will buy when it breaks though.
Bargain! 👍
Hi Peter, I would be really interested in your thoughts on the 165mm Triton saw. It has features I like sure as soft start and has manufacturer support as you say but it was poorly reviewed by Skillbuilder so I've been looking at a second hand Makita saw. I wonder if a different blade or using the scribe cut feature produces a better result. For a DIY'er this looks like a potential good middle ground between the makita/festool and the budget erbauer with no spares as you point out. doesn't look like dust collection was great on either saw in this video. thanks
Thanks! To be fair dust collection isn’t great on any of these saws until you start getting up to the Makita kind of level. How about a comparison between the 165 Triton, the MacAllister and a second hand Makita? 🤔
@@10MinuteWorkshop that would be a really useful review. If others are like me I've had that discussion in my head several times as a DIY'er with some interest in furniture making.
@@10MinuteWorkshop A little bit of an aside, but any chance of reviewing one or other of the adapters that fit a standard circular saw. I have a Makita HS7601, and by the time you buy the adapter and track, it gets close to the cost of cheap complete plunge saw with track.
Great review Peter, as always. I'm interested in your opinion on the accuracy of the depth gauge on the Erbauer. I bought one a month ago and find it a bit hit and miss.
Thanks Darren. TBH I find all plungesaws to be a bit hit & miss on the depth scale, until you start getting up to the Makita and Dewalt sort of levels; if it's critical I'll always run a quick test first. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Much appreciated Peter. 👍
i have the erbauer. i find it sticks a little bit at times and had to remove the safety clamp bit. maybe it needs some more lubrication or something?
A *very* light wipe of silicone spray on the rail usually does the trick for me. 👍👍
Using mine today with exactly the same problem, for the life of me couldn’t work out why. Sometimes the blade jams, sometimes the unit itself sticks. I always lock it in place on the rail
I'm considering selling my Festool TS55. Nothing wrong with it but I have a constant problem with the plunge spring pushing the blade back up when I'm stretching to finish a wide cut. I'm in my 70's and probably got weak arms. Is it possible to fit a weaker spring? Thanks for all the videos.
Thanks Ian! Must confess it’s not something I’ve considered before, but I see no reason why a weaker spring wouldn’t work? I’m not sure you’d find an alternative saw that needed less force to plunge though; maybe the DeWalt, as it’s action is different. Might be worth trying to get hands-on with one when we’re allowed to travel again?? 👍👍
Do they both fit the Makita tracks well?
Yes, same pattern track exactly.
Great video as always peter, annoying thing about the erbauer is not being able to buy additional guide rails, have you tried the erbauer on any of your other rails? Wanting to get some additional track but not sure which would fit best.
Thanks Jay! I think I do say in the video that the rails are the standard Makita pattern - so basically the Festool rail with the added lip - so any rail of that type will do the job. I don’t generally recommend mixing different rail brands in the same run if you can avoid it - I go into details in the Which Rail Works? guiderail compatibility video, here, czcams.com/video/_HtpT_bK7zw/video.html - but the evolution track is probably the best value for 2x 1400 rails.👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks a million for that peter, keep up the good work!
I have a Screwfix minutes away from home... If it wears out or breaks within two years it has paid for itself.. Any time beyond that is a bonus... The Triton is tempting though... but I do like the options and accrssories standard with the Erbauer... Both compatible with Makita track?
Yes, that's exactly how I think about the entry-level tools tbh - I know exactly what the score is going in. And yes, both compatible with the Makita track, or any festool-pattern track. 👍
Good morning , I have the erbauer and it burns everything I try to cut . I’ve changed the blade and it hasn’t changed the burning . Is it possibly I need to dial it to the track ? If so does that require a splinter guard replacement?
I’d return it. At this kind of price point it should be producing a clean cut, even with the stock blade. Changing the splinter guard won’t make a difference if the blade is scorching I’m afraid. It’s possible to adjust the ‘toe-in’ of the saw body on the base - it’s typically the back of the blade catching the edge that causes the scorching - but this isn’t something I recommend as it should be factory-set by the manufacturer. Swap it out for a replacement. 👍
Thanks so much for the great videos and taking the time to respond . I really appreciate it
I'm a keen DIYer and have been thinking about buying a track saw. Do you have any thoughts on the Macallister from Screwfix, have you tried it?
No, I’m afraid not, though it is on my list. It replaced the Titan after it was discontinued. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I bought the Titan (after watching your channel, Peter!); it gave me (just over) two years of good service so when the gearbox went pop I replaced it with the MacAllister. Other than the colour and branding, as far as I can tell out is exactly the same saw, and probably made in the same factory as the Titan was. So I would say anyone thinking of getting the MacAllister could very usefully watch your Titan videos.
Recently purchased a Rutlands plunge saw, however can't seem to get a good cut without burning. Any particular reason for this? Fitted a new Freud blade but still the same? Any help would be appreciated.
Fantastic video yet again, however the bloopers at the end made me realise how long your videos take to make! I think you're being too harsh on yourself and should just leave it in when you make a mistake in your wording, most people won't even pick up on it!
Keep up the fantastic work!
Thanks! If I left the bloopers in we'd have the ten hour workshop! 😂 👍
Have to say I found the bloopers way too funny
Update! Just bought the Erbauer and it's now guaranteed for 3 years (yipee). Thanks for the great review, Peter. BTW, since the Triton is essentially the same saw, couldn't you just use the Triton spares on the Erbauer?
Good to n ow, thanks! Re the spares, you should be able to, but obvs. there’s no guarantee everything will fit or work. 👍👍
Triton customer service is epic.
Anyone know if either of these fit the Marita rail? Thanks
Erbauer and Triton rails are both clones of the Makita, so yes. 👍
Hi Peter thanks for another great video. Just looking for a bit of advice the Erbauer is €185 and the Triton is €340 in Ireland. What would you recommend. Also what tracks are they both compatible with. Once again thanks for you help and advice. Mick
With that kind of price difference I think I’d go with the Erbauer, personally. Just be aware of the spare parts situation. And I think I say in the vid, they both come with Makita-style rails, so standard Festool pattern, but with the extra anti-tipping lip. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hi Peter thanks for the great advice as usual but just thinking as a hobby woodworker would it be worth spending the extra for the option of spare parts??
Hi Peter any experience or heard much about the Einhell plunge saw? Cheers
Hi Shaun; I've no direct experience of them, but they were - visually at least - dead ringers for the older (c2019) Parkside saws sold by Lidl, and it wouldn't surprise me to find that they were made by the same manufacturer. A lot of the Parkside tools from around that time were Einhell, in the way that the Aldi Workzone ones were Scheppach. Aldi have since moved on to their own Ferrex brand which is made for them direct, but I don't know about Lidl. But back to the Einhell saw, no reason to think it wont be a perfectly decent entry-level saw, with a Makita-sized 165mm blade that you can pick up anywhere. Buy from one of the usual suspects - toolstation etc... - and you wont have any issues if you need to return it. 👍 HTH P
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you 👍
Iv got a new makita chop saw blade. 190x20mm saw blade. Would this work in the erbauer plunge saw, even tho its 5mm bigger diameter?
If it fits, it'll throw the depth of cut off, and it'll probably be a thicker kerf, so could well mess up your splinterguard - I'd be very cautious about it, personally, but no harm in trying it out by just offering it up and 'dry' spinning the blade by hand, make sure it doesn't catch on anything. Don't think I'd recommend actually running the motor though!
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks. It was just an idea as I like makita blades, il order a Saxton upgrade.
Peter, i just bought the erbauer today from screwfix. However , I was cutting 18mm ply and I found the blade would bind and stop if i was cutting even relatively fast. Is this normal, or is it a fault and should I return for exchange?
No, sounds like a lemon Simon. Mine cut very well - I’d chuck it back to them. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yeah. Think I'll do that. Frustrating. I've been going through lots of other videos regarding the etbauer saw. And I see others comment on having the same issue. Also , on the SF website there's a few reviews saying the same
Im curious what you think of the Evolution R185CCSX+ its Cheaper at around £100 roughly same specs but has a multi material blade?
Thanks! The Evo is a circular saw that can run on a track. Great saw if you need multi material, nit so great in wood though. See video 378, Skil saw or plunge saw - czcams.com/video/cV3DjNlZq8s/video.html
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you so much for the reply and info, must have been one of the few videos of yours i have missed, I was looking at getting the Evo but thanks to your insight its off the shortlist, Mcalister looks more suitible to my needs.
I bought the Erbauer about 6 or 7 months ago, I have played about with it for hours and hours and can not get a straight and true cut out of it. I can't put my finger on why, it could be something I'm doing or it could be a faulty machine but I decided to replace with an upgrade to find out! TS55 on it's way!
Sounds like a good upgrade! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop if I can't get a decent accurate cut out of a TS55 then I may as well just sell all of my tools and find a new hobby!
Yes please comparison against titan
Nice material as always Peter. Thanks.
I'm looking for comparison reviews of Macalisters plunge saw product from screwfix.
If you have a review of that material in planning then I would be grateful.
Thanks again for the material. Its always informative and I always pick up something useful.
Thanks Frederick! The MacAllister is on my list as it's so close (visually) to the old Titan - it'll be a few weeks yet though! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop many thanks Peter,
I guess it may be useful (from a data point of view) to point out the type of things I’m looking for in a review. You cover most but if we don’t say it then you don’t know.
I like your 2 saw format of review. As long as one saw is something I can reference in some way. You have talked about your titon enough so that’s a good reference now. If something persuaded you to switch favorites then we have a big winner ;-)
- noise level is actually high on the list for me specifically. Possibly not as important for others.
- weight and ease of handling. (Nice feel combined with noise are things that can make something a “go too” tool)
- the rail system is still a confusing space for me. We need to cut 8 foot sheets so need new rails from the get go (like most people I imagine) But everything seems to be a compromise. The best budget answer seems to be a set of evolution rails ! Is there any sense in a DIY 9foot “shooter board” with a something to hold the saw in place! ? Compact Portability is gone, but can one get everything else from such an effort?
- I’ll change the blade from the start unless the stock blade is an education I did not expect. Thin kerf and lower noise are normal objectives.
- dust collection. Is much left on the floor or in the air? Can a bit of tape over an opening, dramatically improve it? (I hear it can in some cases)
Sorry such a long post. Hope it’s useful. Thanks again for the material.
Tim’s howtomake had a review of the MacAllister saw from a little while back. He shows a “slop” in blade to shoe alignment due to a loose fitting in slide/plunge arrangement. He didn’t manage to show any diy fix though. If anyone knows of a fix please post.
Hello Peter, iv just purchased the erbauer plunge saw.i want to buy some longer rails... Which manufacturers rails would you recommend I buy? Also, which blade would you recommend for an upgrade? Thanks, James.
Hi James. The Erbauer runs on Makita-pattern rails, so the Excel 1.5m would be my choice right now, available here - Excel guiderail - bit.ly/2YJ66g9. As for a blade upgrade, I've no idea I'm sorry; as I say in the video, the big drawback with the Erbauer is the oddball blade size - even Erbauer don't list a replacement as a spare part! You'll have more choice from third parties like Trend, but I havent used any of them so wouldn't be comfortable making a recommendation. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter. Iv bought Saxton blades before, il try them. Great videos BTW.
I bought a £100 Mac Alister 165mm plunge saw and a Freud 40 tooth blade £22 from Screwfix. I've been using it for cutting gloss end panels, plinth etc on my new kitchen install. It looks to be the same basic design as these two saws but with only 1200 watt motor. It makes very clean cuts - the only problem being me cutting an odd mm short. Peter, have you done a tutorial on measuring and cutting accurately?
Here’s Tony. These two are a bit bigger overall, but out of the same mould as the MacAllister. I haven’t done anything specifically on measuring and marking, no, but it’s on my list! 👍👍
I've had the erbauer plunge saw for a few years now. I have to say its great for the price! A few issues with the depth gauge not being very accurate but they may have resolved this on the newer model. Am thinking about upgrading to the Makita DSP600 cordless seems to have great reviews compared with Festool TSC 55, what are your thoughts Peter?
Thanks James. I’ve never used a cordless tracksaw so don’t have any experience of either I’m afraid. 🤷♂️👍
I have both a festool 110v plunge saw and the Makita 36v and the festool doesn't come out any more. Cordless makita every time.
How do they compare to the Draper Plunge saw?
The Draper looks like a rebadged Titan / Triton. It’s a 165mm saw, so slightly different animal than these two. 👍👍
Total amateur here Peter but learning an awful lot from your terrific videos - many much too advanced for me but interesting nonetheless! Basic question - what double sided tape do you use? From zooming in on a video it looks like Tesa? Many of the tapes on sale are extremely difficult to peel off the backing. I'm sure you have seen Jisaku Koubou who seems to have 3M tape that's a doddle? Best wishes.
Hiya. Depends what we’re sticking. For a permanent bond then 3M all day long. For a temporary fix then Tesla’s good, but whatever you can get your hands on tbh. 🤷♂️👍👍
Great video. I like your glasses; what brand are they?
Thanks. Bought them in Hong Kong forever ago; they’re ’Synergy’ according to the frames. 🤷♂️👍
Peter Millard Thanks. As soon as lockdown is over, I'll nip over and pick up a pair. I'll sort out their relationship with China while I'm there.