I have a trick to always cut center of the rafters. You shoot a nail up from the inside of the attic, in the middle of the rafters at the location where you want to cut your hole. When you get on the roof, you now know where the center is. You can then slide the base up or down, keeping the nail center. Then you mark your cut hole. You can also use the nail to hold on to the wood as you finish your cut
Yea that's a great idea if you have space in your attic to walk almost straight or crawl a bit. But my roof is so slanted and is almost flat that the only way to fil in there in crawling in your stomach. You don't even have space to turn upside up. Is way to tight.
as i am looking for a way to find the middle i have almost 20in of blown in insulation. your ideea unfortunately won't work for me unless i want to have to blow in insulation where i make a path by stepping on it and compress it
I watched the video before I decided to install my first turbine vent. A couple of things I would do to improve the video is to list all of the tools that you need before doing the project like a level, a drill, hammer, etc. The gentleman in the video is also doing this with his bare hands. You really need gloves to protect your hands, esp if it is your first time handling aluminum . One hint a friend showed me was first go up into the attic and find where the rafters are and drill a hole in between them and leave the drill bit in the hole so that it can be seen from the outside and that saves having to pound all over the roof trying to find where the rafters are. I used a yellow crayon instead of a marker to mark where i needed to cut. All in all I followed the video and had a successful installation! Thank you thank you!
you make a good point, but i would guess the man making the video assumed that the person doing a job like this would not be a 10 yr old girl scout. kinda like the guy about that wanted him to list the tools needed. you are going to hammer nails, guess what you need a hammer, oh and nails, you are going to cut a hole, wonder what you need for that, a broom. come on guys, if you don't have even basic knowledge of tools or home repair then don't cut a hole in your roof, it really isn't that expensive. and just to add to another question or remark, depending on the pitch of your roof and how well you mount the turbine base you are better off with no roof cement gobbed allover the base, when the sun beats down it the stuff it cracks, when it cracks water is retained, then it starts leaking, and pay attention that the base is on top of the shingles at the back, so if rain does get under the shingles in front it runs out the back, the way shingles are designed to work.
I've had three 12-inch wind turbines on my home for about 31 years and they worked fine, they may have contributed to making my 25-year asphalt shingles last that long. My house was cooler and when it's 35 to 40 Celsius outside, the attic gets HOT. Anyway, when I had my roof replaced, the building inspector had the old wind turbines removed and thrown away and instructed that no new ones be installed because he said that by convection, the turbines blowing in high winds created a vortex which moved all the blown-in insulation move aside. Now that I have two 10-inch roof vents, they don't seem as effective. I bought 3 new turbines and I will be installing them soon. My next door neighbour hired a contractor to install a new roof for him and in the last 6 years, he's had his roof replaced each time as the shingles would curl. I didn't tell him that he didn't have enough roof ventilation and the extreme heat was causing the shingles to heat up. You can NEVER have too much ventilation.
Have had 2 14" Whirlybirds for 8 years, and will be installing a third over the garage. They do work. Before summer hits I go around the house brushing debris and webs off all soffets to help with intake. Summers in Oregon are getting brutal, and you've gotta keep that attic heat minimized. Note: I seal the shingle edging to flashing seam with rubberized coating also.
PS it's hot on a roof! Drink water first, and if possible cool of fall. And I also understand why long sleeves and pants. That black sealant can get everywhere, and bare knees on roof can be uncomfortable. Great video! I have one turbine up. A few more to go.
You're welcome! I'm glad that I could be of help in explaining the meaning of the numbers related to turbines. If you have any other questions or concerns, feel free to ask.
About to go install two of these and cut an additional intake vent on the one end wall of the house, will let you know how it works, God willing after the summer heat hits hard.
I wouldn't use roof cement over the inside of the turbine, is better to use silicone caulking . what I use different : I'd remove the shingles before cutting the hole , that way I can seal around the metal base under the shingles . I don't recommend turbines , when the bearing goes bad , they stop spinning and people goes on the roof in the middle on the rain to cover them up with plastic bags since the wind drives the rain inside the turbine. It's better to use dormer vents, ohagin vents, ridge vent , etc...but not turbines . sorry for being honest , but in my 22 years as a professional roofer i've seen everything and fixed everything so far. good video tho ! Eric.
Lot of opinion in your comment and no facts. I watched this video so I could go install my turbine yesterday and when I read your comment, I thought "oh no, I better read about this and make sure it's a good decision." Well after a few hours of reading... it is! Anyone who can read can go online and learn about the different systems in use for attic ventilation and none, not one system, is better than another. For anyone who promotes one kind, another article speaks ill of it. It turns out the real question is what is best for your individual house and how it works already. Real Whirlybirds, with a permanently lubricated bearing and lifetime warranty, are promoted and used by several building science websites, and all the static vents you opted for have plenty of websites that state they do little to nothing. The only system proven to do anything... powered vents, but the constant electrical cost versus reward loses money and where I live those are now banned anyway. Of course where I live a "hot roof" is also acceptable, meaning you have no ventilation at all, so different areas of the country, different houses, and different designs - impossible to say one way is better or worse than another.
I had mine turbine for about 20 year...still going strong, no bearing problem what so ever....never had it lube or anything, I did notice that at one point, some sob shot it with a b'b or pellet gun several times
yeah, after putting a new one on my roof in 1973 when i bought my home the damn thing got noisy last year and i had to go buy another one, left the old base on and just screwed the new top to it, its a shame they can't make something that would last more than 40 or 50 years, hey thats longer than the years you claim experience in roofing. by the way i got shoes older than your experience. and as the other gentleman points out, almost everyone does it different, but i have noticed that almost all major roofing companies tell you to have an expert discuss what your particular needs are, i remember back when an attic fan, and i mean a big fan, and opening certain windows in the house from the top or the bottom and do an excellent job, not only creating a cool breeze through the entire house but also venting the hot air from the attic, and amazingly the homeowners knew exactly which windows in each room to open, and if they needed to open from top or bottom.
they all work, but some better than others, the turbine vents have a bearing that can be swapped out ez, it uses a roller skate bearings 2 of them top and bottom of center shaft. i myself will be using a powered vent for my 1200sqft attic only need 1000cfm fan but have to make sure i have at least 577sq.in. of intake ventilation
Nice video...look under roof to visualize where rafters are. When climbing up and down ladder use a rope and bucket to lower and raise things off roof...nail/tool waiste bags. Dont carry things in hands up and down ladder. When you nail use roofing nails lift shingles and nail under shingles where roofing shinle glue was mid shingle and reglue shingle after naling. Dont leave nails exposed. Lower half base should cover over lower shingles.
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
As long as you have a “balanced” system, you can not over ventilate your attic. Just remember if you increase the amount of exhaust ventilation - you must have an equal amount of intake. The ventilation system needs to be 50% intake and 50% exhaust.
You're welcome! I'm glad to hear that you found the video on turbine vent installation helpful and informative. Installing a turbine vent can be a DIY project for homeowners who are comfortable working on their roofs and have the necessary tools and safety equipment. It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and safety guidelines when installing a turbine vent, as well as any local building codes and regulations. Proper installation and maintenance of a turbine vent can improve the efficiency of your home's ventilation system and help you save on energy costs.
Planning to add two of these, as my roof only has gable vents (should have plenty of intake, dunno what they're called but all along the attic there are 3" holes covered with hardware cloth all along the bottom of the attic; not technically soffit I don't think so unsure what to call them). We live in a hot climate where it gets to over 100F, but when I test my attic it gets to almost 170F, so I'm pretty sure I need more venting. Anyways, I'm assuming these won't let rain and whatnot into the attic, correct? I just don't want to install these and wind up with even worse issues.
Sir, There is a big problem with this whirlybird installation. We should not apply roof sealant in between elbow and base. By doing this we close the way for water drainage. If there is a heavy rain, the rainwater can come through the vanes or sometimes due to moisture, trapped condensate can store in between base and elbow join which can cause leakage. Thanks 😊
This installation was done precisely according to the manufacturers installation instructions. You can view this for yourself at this link. media.lomancovents.com/all_access/instructions/20000_turbine_beb-bib_master.pdf. See step #8
@@AG5CC-USA No it’s wrong sir. If we follow the step 8 in your instruction and seal the adjusting seam then If moisture generates inside, There is no way to come out the water, it will straight away go inside the roof space and cause leakages. Thanks
@@patelmeet9119 You do realize this video was produced by Lamanco, right? As in the very company that has been manufacturing Whirlybirds for decades. I think I'd sooner trust them than a random guy on the internet.
@@tparsons13 I appreciate your comment sir but It is not necessary that everything be true if it has been made for decades. I have just presented my idea. It is very basic thing to not seal Varipitch and flashing from the inside. Sometimes random guy on internet can become right. Thanks by the way 😇
YES! so the reason is for rust prevention aswell as securing it to the Wood. think about this wind lifts shingles up sometimes so u dotn want the nails to lift with it right? the bottom ones stay under so rain can "slide" down off the roofing shingles and not get under ur roof. i hope i answered your question in a way that makes sense to you as i only know what has been self taught to myself over these few years on earth
Thank you. Easy to understand & to the point. Can this be used to ventilate a pantry room (seems to get as hot as an oven ... not good for a food pantry!!!)?
ibamusicaphile I used a small one to ventilate my root cellar and it dried up all the moisture in there. My shelves were rotting before (they were 2" oak boards) with water dripping off the ceiling. After installation, dry as a bone. The intake was the drain pipe in the floor that went out into a field. (It was already installed for washing down the walls and floor with a hose).
This is an installation of an internally braced Whirlybird® Turbine vent. While the internally and externally braced turbines both have the same internal construction, the externally braced turbines have 3 braces that surround the outside of the turbine.
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing. Lomanco vents, including the whirlybird turbine series, that are marked or identified with "Miami-Dade Approved" has passed testing and met the requirements for use in the High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ). These attic vents are tested at wind speeds of 30, 70, 90 and 110 mph while having a rainfall rate of 8.8 inches/hour applied to the test deck and vent. The first three wind speeds are applied for a duration of 15 minutes and the final wind speed of 110 mph is applied for 5 minutes. The testing is performed by a third-party laboratory that must be approved by Miami-Dade County.
Mine has been there since i’ve owned my house, 25 years. Not a drop of rain or flake of snow has gotten through to the attic. I did check often when i first bought the house because i was sure it would leak.
Ah, I understand. It's important to follow Lomanco's installation instructions to maintain the warranty. Even though using screws with rubber washers and additional sealant might seem like a good idea for extra protection, deviating from Lomanco's guidelines could indeed void the warranty. Lomanco designs their installation procedures for optimal performance and longevity of their products, and sticking to these instructions is essential for keeping your warranty valid. It's always advisable to adhere to Lomanco's recommended installation methods to ensure both the effectiveness of the product and the integrity of the warranty.
Properly installed turbines should be spinning with minimum wind speed. Every turbine is tested to spin at a wind speed of 3 MPH before leaving our manufacturing facility. There are several factors that influence the the efficiency of a turbine. Turbines will work at maximum efficiency when the top of the turbine is over the roof peak. This will allow the wind to hit the turbine for all directions. The turbine also needs intake vents with an obstructed path to the turbines. Without intake vents, the turbines do not have a continuous flow of make up air. Mixing exhaust products will also have an adverse effect on the turbine. When multiple types of exhaust products are used, the chimney / stack effect is negated and the turbine does not draw from the intake as well. If the turbine spins when you turn it by hand, but not when the wind is blowing, the bearings are probably worn out. If the bearings have gone out, contact customer service (800.643.5596) for warranty information.
You can use a 5/16" nut driver or a flat screwdriver. The flashing should go underneath the shingles. Seal the adjusting seam and the base/elbow connection seam on inside with roofing cement. Seal locking clamp holes and all exposed nails with roofing cement. Complete installation instructions can be viewed here: media.lomancovents.com/all_access/instructions/20000_turbine_beb-bib_master.pdf
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful for your installation! When it comes to having your roof redone, the installation process for the Whirlybird turbine should generally be the same. However, it's important to ensure that your roofing professionals are familiar with the specific installation guidelines from Lomanco. Communicating the importance of following these instructions to your roofers is key. If they have any doubts or questions, they can always refer to the installation video or Lomanco's documentation. Ensuring that the installation is done correctly is crucial, not just for the performance of the turbine but also to maintain its warranty. Don't hesitate to oversee or double-check their work for peace of mind.
so the way the vent works is as explained. the fins are designed so that they face rain and its a exaust vent so its always spinning so the rain cant get inside. i hope i answered your question in a way that makes sense to you as i only know what has been self taught to myself over these few years on earth
How do these work in conjunction of a whole house fan? Also, do these have a way to shut them closed so in the winter you don't lose all the warm attic insulation?
There is no concern with installing a Lomanco Whirlybird® turbine and a whole house fan. Be sure to follow the whole house fan's manufacturer's recommendation as far as the NFA required. We do not recommend covering turbines during the winter months. Attic ventilation systems are required year around. Most people associate attic ventilation with heat; however, of the two major destructive forces at work in your attic, moisture, not heat, is the most destructive. Since winter air is drier, it absorbs moisture from your home. The attic space is even more susceptible to excessive moisture in the winter. Plus when air is trapped inside the attic - it will always be warmer than the air outside. The roof sheathing/decking will be colder in winter months. Thus creating even more condensation. It can literally "rain" in your attic. This moisture produces mildew, rotting conditions that can damaging wood and destroy shingles, and can drip down to the ceiling below to damage plaster or paint. Insulation also becomes wet and provides less resistance to heat loss - in effect loses its R-value.
I think placing 1 or 2 powered fans at the peak of the roof that can kick in at a certain temp, like my gabel fan would be best. these seam more a problem than a solution. I have one gabel exhaust fan. Better to put in a intake fan as well. Though I could activate the WHole House Fan to do that duty, yet often times you dont want to open a window or door for that.
Turbines will work at maximum efficiency when the top of the turbine is over the ridge line. When installed at the peak of the roof, turbines will be exposed to the wind from all directions. On most pitched roofs, you will want to cut the hole about 18 - 24 inches from the peak of the roof.
Where is the best placement? I'm thinking of installing 2 on each side of the peak ,one in front and one in back, caddy corner. It's for a remodeled garage apartment. So I'm thinking the best place for one is over the kitchen since it's the hotest area? And the 2nd in the opposite corner of the room? Garage room is 16x19, what size/diameter turbine do you recommend?? Avg. 106° in summer. There is no other ventilation, hence 2?
Lomanco recommends 1 square foot of attic ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic floor space (50% exhaust and 50% in intake) Let’s go through an example… For a home with 1,500 square feet of attic floor space, you’ll divide 1,500 by 300 = 5 square feet of attic ventilation. You divide 5 by 2 to provide half of the ventilation for intake and half as exhaust. Thus, 5 divided by 2 = 2.5 square feet of attic ventilation for intake and 2.5 square feet of attic ventilation for exhaust. To determine how many vents you will need, take the square feet recommended and multiply by 144 to convert to square inches. Thus, 2.5 X 144 = 360 square inches of attic ventilation is required for exhaust and 360 square inches for intake. Once you have determined how many square inches of ventilation you need and the Net Free Area of the product you are using, divide the Net Free Area (NFA) rating of the product by the NFA required. For example, the Lomanco 750 provides 50 square inches of ventilation, so if you are using the 750, you’ll divide 360 by 50. Thus, you would need 7.2 vents (8 because you always want to round up). (NOTE: Some local building codes require that 1 square foot of ventilation be provided for every 150 square feet of attic space. Please check with your local building code office to ensure compliance to local requirements.) Local roofing professionals and supply houses can assist you in determining the best ventilation system for your home. Lomanco provides a Vent Selector App and calculators on the pages of our website to help determine the ventilation required to meet minimum property standards. By meeting this minimum standard you will meet local building codes and fulfill the warranty requirements on major building components such as shingles and insulation.
I checked the roof pitch. What do you do when it's between lines? Use higher number or lower? I went with the higher number. My turbine does not level all the way around and looks leaning form the ground. I tried adjusting but no luck.
If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The base can be made level by turbine the "elbow" counter-clockwise (the elbow will move along the seam). If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The base can be made level by turbine the "elbow" counter-clockwise (the elbow will move along the seam). If you can get it to the middle point where it is most level you should not have any issues with the turbines performance. Not all homes have a perfect pitch which can lead to a slight degree of not being level.
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
Hi Jimmie, I love your experience on replacing the new turnbin head, I would like to do the same as you did, but how can I know the size of my old turn in head so I can order the same one. And what is different beetwhin internal and external turnbine. Th.you for your help
Do you see when the head is put on and the screws are on the outside of the vent? Mine were hidden inside and it took a little more troubleshooting to line up my head to vent holes. I'm thinking that's the difference between internal and external turbine.
Lomanco Solar Power Vents are your attic's best choice for solar powered protection against heat and moisture from sun-up to sun-down. We have created a unique design that is not only functional, but looks good on the roof.We have a Omni Solar Vent and Omni Solar Gable Vent. Both feature a 40+ Watt solar panel, the largest standard panel offered on solar attic vents. They also include a 10 year limited warranty and a 5 year limited warranty on the solar panel and motor. Other common features include a whisper quite motor and precision balanced 5 blade fan. The specification sheet has detailed information. The Omni Solar Vent is a roof mount vent while the Omni Solar Gable Vent provides additional ventilation to gable vents. The installation couldn't be easier on both of the Solar Vents. In fact, there is no need for an electrician.
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
The pitch of the roof corresponds with a location number on the collar to position with a mark on the base to correctly align the collar so it can be adjusted to a level platform for proper install of the turbine head.
We manufacture 3 sizes of turbines- 8”, 12”, and 14”. The 12" turbine is available in aluminum and galvanized finishes as well as a Tile Roof Design. Whilybrid turbines are also available in two models - internally and externally braced. While the internally and externally braced turbines both have the same internal construction, the externally braced turbines have 3 braces that surround the outside of the turbine.
The concept behind wind turbine vents is that the turning blades will help force air out of the attic. Hot air naturally rises, so if attic air is heated above the ambient air temperature a vent will allow the less dense hot air to escape. The air being exhausted MUST be replaced by outside air drawn through intake vents located near the lower part of the attic space to properly ventilate the total attic area.
Seal the adjusting seam and the base/elbow connection on the inside with roofing cement. Seal the clamp holes and all exposed nails with roofing cement. If needed you can seal under any shingles that were pulled up.
We have been manufacturing turbines since 1968 and we have no history of any significant bug or insect issues that have resulted form use of Lomanco Whirlybirds that would warrant adding a screen. The turbine should be spinning at minimal wind speeds and the moving parts should deter any animal or insect from entering the attic. Also, the heat exiting the turbine should deter from entering the attic. We do understand the concern for protecting your attic and we know bugs can be creative and persistent. If you would like to add additional protection, you can attach a screen. Like you mentioned, you will reduce the airflow, but it shouldn't decrease the air flow too much. It will probably be easiest to attach the screen to the ceiling of the attic so it is flush with the bottom part of turbine.
When "properly installed" Lomanco Whirlybirds will not allow weather / moisture infiltration. However, if the turbines are not installed correctly, there are some situations that can cause infiltration. Let me discuss some common installation issues that can lead to infiltration... The number one reason for failure is inadequate intake ventilation. Exhaust vents require intake vents to work properly. Without intake vents, the exhaust vents can feed from each other and allow weather to infiltrate. There are several things to look at as far as installation - Is the hole cut the correct hole per instructions (12" diameter for a 12" turbine and 14" diameter for a 14" turbine)? Are all turbines installed at the same height? Same side of the roof? Another common mistake is mixing exhaust vents. Are there any other vents other than turbines installed? Mixing exhaust vents such as turbines with ridge vents, turbines with gable vents, etc has the potential to cause problems. Here is a link to Lomanco's 3 Must do Steps to Attic Ventilation. This flyer addresses some of the topics I've touched on. We have been manufacturing turbines since 1968 and we have no history of any significant bug or critter issues that have resulted from the use of Lomanco Whirlybirds that would warrant adding a screen. The turbine should be spinning at minimal wind speeds and the moving parts should deter any animal or insect from entering the attic. Also, the heat exiting the turbine should deter from entering the attic. I do understand the concern for protecting your attic and I know bugs/critters can be creative and persistent. If you would like to add additional protection, you can attach a screen. Keep in mind, anything blocking the free flow of air, such as a screen, will reduce airflow slightly, but the decrease should be minimal. I would suggest attaching the screen to the ceiling of the attic so it is flush with the bottom part of turbine. As for your other question, Lomanco products are only design to properly function when properly installed on a roof.
@@Lomanco thank you so much for your time. I will try and address the situation I have. I have a ridge vent and a gable vent plus a window opposite of gable vent. But I do not have any soffit vents. As for the wind speed another utuber stated that it will not spin if there is 0 to 5mph wind. Again thank you and if u have a vid on size and proper install of soft vents I would greatly look at that.
We offer a 12" Whirlybird for a Tile Roof applications. The Tile Roof Whirlybird has a few modifications, most notably a taller throat, to make it the perfect wind powered turbine vent for all tile and slate roof constructions. Here is a flyer with additional information - chrome-media.lomancovents.com/all_access/sales_literature/lo462_tile_roof_turbine.pdf
If you got the cheap ones with plastic bearing, yes. With the Whirlybird, you're paying extra for steel bearings. I got Whirlybirds that we put up 25+ years ago that are still spinning as silently as when they were new.
For optimal operation, the turbine should be installed level to the ground. The turbine can also fail prematurely if the wobble continues over the life of the turbine. The turbine head may have shifted slightly during transportation and minor adjustments may need to be made. A slight wobble can be adjusted by using a flat head screwdriver to pry the lowest point of the turbine upward. If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The pitch setting may need to be changed. The base (elbow) may be made level by adjusting the pitch to a different setting. The bottom of the elbow will turn clockwise (the elbow will move along the "seam") to align roof pitch number with the indicator line on the flashing.
I have a ridge vent with soffits…I don’t even feel airflow….with the whirley bird…what if u put too many turbines on a house but with proper ratio of soffits
I have passive ridge vents and they are terrible. You can take an incense stick, the things that smell good, light it before you go into the attic then hold it close to the ridge vent. If it’s drawing good ot will pull the incense straight out. Mine DOES NOT hence the reason I’m here.
NO! You want one TYPE of exhaust vent within a common attic area. Exhaust vents pull air from the easiest intake source. The use of two or more types of exhaust vents such as Power Vents with Roof Vents, Ridge Vents with Gable Vents, or any combination of exhaust louvers can make one of these vents act as intake for the other. Intake air should come from the soffit vent area to properly ventilate the total attic area and eliminate weather infiltration.
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
I think it would be great if we can add all tools and materials used in description so when we come back to look at video at actual time of installation we don't have to rewatch entire video and keep skipping to see what all he used. Thank you, excellent video otherwise!
Because many products on the market include a filter that is marketing to keep both weather and bugs out, this is a commonly asked question. Lomanco has no history of any bug or insect issues that resulted from use of our ridge vents. With features such as curved internal baffles, molded-in end plugs, and external baffles, you can see we have put a lot of thought and engineering into the design of our product. So with that, we did not overlook the bug question, we just determined it to be a lesser priority. Products with filters restrict bugs and insects, but they also restrict airflow. We are not willing to sacrifice airflow for something we have not had an issue with. Testing shows that a filter restricts air flow by as much as 33%. A couple things to note - The vent will constantly be moving air. This is true under calm wind conditions and even more when there are winds present. Critters such as bugs and insects are less likely to try to enter a vent that has a steady flow of air pushing out of the vents.
You could possibly be covered under the forever guarantee offered on the Lomanco Whirlybird. If you could please contact our customer service by starting a ticket in our Vent Center Support system on lomanco.com they will confirm if your issue is covered and handle replacement parts or a replacement vent. Vent Center Support is manned from 8am-5pm CST from Monday-Friday. You may also contact out customer service at our toll free number 1.800.643.5596. Here is the direct link to Vent Center Support: www.support.lomanco.com/
Remember that they will also spin in the winter, thus pulling that heat out of your attic space when you want it to remain. Some people go up in the fall and tie a bag around them for the winter, to prevent the heat loss.
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration. The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement. The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine. It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
I Ger Gonzalez CZcams positions the closed captions. The is no control to position them in another place. You can choose to view them or you can turn them off. How that helps.
I have a trick to always cut center of the rafters. You shoot a nail up from the inside of the attic, in the middle of the rafters at the location where you want to cut your hole. When you get on the roof, you now know where the center is. You can then slide the base up or down, keeping the nail center. Then you mark your cut hole. You can also use the nail to hold on to the wood as you finish your cut
Yea that's a great idea if you have space in your attic to walk almost straight or crawl a bit. But my roof is so slanted and is almost flat that the only way to fil in there in crawling in your stomach. You don't even have space to turn upside up. Is way to tight.
Qué dice, no hablo inglés
as i am looking for a way to find the middle i have almost 20in of blown in insulation. your ideea unfortunately won't work for me unless i want to have to blow in insulation where i make a path by stepping on it and compress it
@@ivanmellado bendejo
I love how simple old youtube tutorials are
Glad you liked it.
I watched the video before I decided to install my first turbine vent. A couple of things I would do to improve the video is to list all of the tools that you need before doing the project like a level, a drill, hammer, etc. The gentleman in the video is also doing this with his bare hands. You really need gloves to protect your hands, esp if it is your first time handling aluminum . One hint a friend showed me was first go up into the attic and find where the rafters are and drill a hole in between them and leave the drill bit in the hole so that it can be seen from the outside and that saves having to pound all over the roof trying to find where the rafters are. I used a yellow crayon instead of a marker to mark where i needed to cut. All in all I followed the video and had a successful installation! Thank you thank you!
you make a good point, but i would guess the man making the video assumed that the person doing a job like this would not be a 10 yr old girl scout. kinda like the guy about that wanted him to list the tools needed. you are going to hammer nails, guess what you need a hammer, oh and nails, you are going to cut a hole, wonder what you need for that, a broom. come on guys, if you don't have even basic knowledge of tools or home repair then don't cut a hole in your roof, it really isn't that expensive. and just to add to another question or remark, depending on the pitch of your roof and how well you mount the turbine base you are better off with no roof cement gobbed allover the base, when the sun beats down it the stuff it cracks, when it cracks water is retained, then it starts leaking, and pay attention that the base is on top of the shingles at the back, so if rain does get under the shingles in front it runs out the back, the way shingles are designed to work.
Excellent tips!
I've had three 12-inch wind turbines on my home for about 31 years and they worked fine, they may have contributed to making my 25-year asphalt shingles last that long. My house was cooler and when it's 35 to 40 Celsius outside, the attic gets HOT. Anyway, when I had my roof replaced, the building inspector had the old wind turbines removed and thrown away and instructed that no new ones be installed because he said that by convection, the turbines blowing in high winds created a vortex which moved all the blown-in insulation move aside. Now that I have two 10-inch roof vents, they don't seem as effective.
I bought 3 new turbines and I will be installing them soon. My next door neighbour hired a contractor to install a new roof for him and in the last 6 years, he's had his roof replaced each time as the shingles would curl. I didn't tell him that he didn't have enough roof ventilation and the extreme heat was causing the shingles to heat up. You can NEVER have too much ventilation.
How are your wind turbines doing after 3 years? Did it really move the blown-in insulation?
@@Mark300win Yeah I"m interested to know too, especially since you could probably find a way to keep it from moving
Now we’re in suspense…..
Don't get it. Blown insulation is a good 10-15' below any turbine vent. How would it get bliwn aside??
I have blown insulation and these whirlybirds and my insulation was never affected.
What a great video. Just shows you how to do it quick without dragging it out forever.
Glad you liked it!
Have had 2 14" Whirlybirds for 8 years, and will be installing a third over the garage. They do work. Before summer hits I go around the house brushing debris and webs off all soffets to help with intake. Summers in Oregon are getting brutal, and you've gotta keep that attic heat minimized. Note: I seal the shingle edging to flashing seam with rubberized coating also.
Good to hear, thank you for choosing Lomanco Vents.
Do you use a fan with your vents
@@paulstephens9274 ...nope. Live in a fairly windy area, they're turning most of the time.
You can just hit the soffit vents with a blower real quick also. It’s a lot easier to do that way.
PS it's hot on a roof! Drink water first, and if possible cool of fall.
And I also understand why long sleeves and pants. That black sealant can get everywhere, and bare knees on roof can be uncomfortable.
Great video! I have one turbine up. A few more to go.
Thanks for doing this! You live in this relentless swamp heat where I do, this is an absolute must.
Outstanding Video! Made it simple and very understandable and installed it correctly. Spoke clearly with good English. I'm a carpenter over 40 years.
I just ordered 3 (2 for attic, 1 for garage)...I hope it goes as easy as it looks!! Thanks for the helpful video.
Did it go as easy as it looked?
Excellent video with competent & articulate installer. Well done.
Glad you liked it!
I don't need all that. Simply swapping out the old turbine for a new one. But it was useful for me to understand what those numbers mean. Thanks
You're welcome! I'm glad that I could be of help in explaining the meaning of the numbers related to turbines. If you have any other questions or concerns, feel free to ask.
@@Lomanco No. Turbine has been up for weeks and it looks great. Nice and smooth. Thanks
removes nails from shingles, doesn't re-secure them... bravo
Gotta put one of these in my wood shop. It's way too hot in there. Thanks for the great video.
Any time!
Great tip about the intake people don't realise
About to go install two of these and cut an additional intake vent on the one end wall of the house, will let you know how it works, God willing after the summer heat hits hard.
Don't forget to stay hydrated.
Great product!! BUT.. Need to seal, with quality sealant top and sides and shingle areas.
Home depot
I’m just wondering on very rainy days is the water going to sleep inside those holes and create mold in my attic?
I wouldn't use roof cement over the inside of the turbine, is better to use silicone caulking .
what I use different : I'd remove the shingles before cutting the hole , that way I can seal around the metal base under the shingles .
I don't recommend turbines , when the bearing goes bad , they stop spinning and people goes on the roof in the middle on the rain to cover them up with plastic bags since the wind drives the rain inside the turbine.
It's better to use dormer vents, ohagin vents, ridge vent , etc...but not turbines .
sorry for being honest , but in my 22 years as a professional roofer i've seen everything and fixed everything so far.
good video tho !
Eric.
Lot of opinion in your comment and no facts. I watched this video so I could go install my turbine yesterday and when I read your comment, I thought "oh no, I better read about this and make sure it's a good decision." Well after a few hours of reading... it is! Anyone who can read can go online and learn about the different systems in use for attic ventilation and none, not one system, is better than another. For anyone who promotes one kind, another article speaks ill of it. It turns out the real question is what is best for your individual house and how it works already. Real Whirlybirds, with a permanently lubricated bearing and lifetime warranty, are promoted and used by several building science websites, and all the static vents you opted for have plenty of websites that state they do little to nothing. The only system proven to do anything... powered vents, but the constant electrical cost versus reward loses money and where I live those are now banned anyway. Of course where I live a "hot roof" is also acceptable, meaning you have no ventilation at all, so different areas of the country, different houses, and different designs - impossible to say one way is better or worse than another.
I had mine turbine for about 20 year...still going strong, no bearing problem what so ever....never had it lube or anything, I did notice that at one point, some sob shot it with a b'b or pellet gun several times
yeah, after putting a new one on my roof in 1973 when i bought my home the damn thing got noisy last year and i had to go buy another one, left the old base on and just screwed the new top to it, its a shame they can't make something that would last more than 40 or 50 years, hey thats longer than the years you claim experience in roofing. by the way i got shoes older than your experience. and as the other gentleman points out, almost everyone does it different, but i have noticed that almost all major roofing companies tell you to have an expert discuss what your particular needs are, i remember back when an attic fan, and i mean a big fan, and opening certain windows in the house from the top or the bottom and do an excellent job, not only creating a cool breeze through the entire house but also venting the hot air from the attic, and amazingly the homeowners knew exactly which windows in each room to open, and if they needed to open from top or bottom.
they all work, but some better than others, the turbine vents have a bearing that can be swapped out ez, it uses a roller skate bearings 2 of them top and bottom of center shaft. i myself will be using a powered vent for my 1200sqft attic only need 1000cfm fan but have to make sure i have at least 577sq.in. of intake ventilation
whirlybirds move more air than a junk ridge vent. Sounds to me like you just have a lot of idiots installing roofs in your area
Excellent explanation looking forward to work in our roof, heat is crazy in Kansas!
Nice video...look under roof to visualize where rafters are. When climbing up and down ladder use a rope and bucket to lower and raise things off roof...nail/tool waiste bags. Dont carry things in hands up and down ladder. When you nail use roofing nails lift shingles and nail under shingles where roofing shinle glue was mid shingle and reglue shingle after naling. Dont leave nails exposed. Lower half base should cover over lower shingles.
Thanks for the comments.
How does rain like we have in Missouri..heavy , sideways and crazy, not find a way thru the fins?
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration.
The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement.
The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine.
It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
I did two in my house 🏠 it was easy like you showed in the video
Thanks again 👍
Thanks for the information! It was just as simple as you made it look!!!!
Cheers.
The system really needs to be balanced. If there isn’t enough intake it will pull warm air through the ceiling.
As long as you have a “balanced” system, you can not over ventilate your attic. Just remember if you increase the amount of exhaust ventilation - you must have an equal amount of intake. The ventilation system needs to be 50% intake and 50% exhaust.
Excellent video thank you very diy steps🙂
You're welcome! I'm glad to hear that you found the video on turbine vent installation helpful and informative. Installing a turbine vent can be a DIY project for homeowners who are comfortable working on their roofs and have the necessary tools and safety equipment.
It's important to follow the manufacturer's instructions and safety guidelines when installing a turbine vent, as well as any local building codes and regulations. Proper installation and maintenance of a turbine vent can improve the efficiency of your home's ventilation system and help you save on energy costs.
Thanks for the video, it goes well with the instruction sheet. My Lomanco is working great!
Planning to add two of these, as my roof only has gable vents (should have plenty of intake, dunno what they're called but all along the attic there are 3" holes covered with hardware cloth all along the bottom of the attic; not technically soffit I don't think so unsure what to call them). We live in a hot climate where it gets to over 100F, but when I test my attic it gets to almost 170F, so I'm pretty sure I need more venting. Anyways, I'm assuming these won't let rain and whatnot into the attic, correct? I just don't want to install these and wind up with even worse issues.
Sir, There is a big problem with this whirlybird installation. We should not apply roof sealant in between elbow and base. By doing this we close the way for water drainage. If there is a heavy rain, the rainwater can come through the vanes or sometimes due to moisture, trapped condensate can store in between base and elbow join which can cause leakage. Thanks 😊
This installation was done precisely according to the manufacturers installation instructions. You can view this for yourself at this link. media.lomancovents.com/all_access/instructions/20000_turbine_beb-bib_master.pdf. See step #8
@@AG5CC-USA No it’s wrong sir. If we follow the step 8 in your instruction and seal the adjusting seam then If moisture generates inside, There is no way to come out the water, it will straight away go inside the roof space and cause leakages. Thanks
@@patelmeet9119 You do realize this video was produced by Lamanco, right? As in the very company that has been manufacturing Whirlybirds for decades. I think I'd sooner trust them than a random guy on the internet.
@@tparsons13 I appreciate your comment sir but It is not necessary that everything be true if it has been made for decades. I have just presented my idea. It is very basic thing to not seal Varipitch and flashing from the inside. Sometimes random guy on internet can become right. Thanks by the way 😇
Thanks for your video I need to instal one in my house 🏠 thanks again 👍
I put in 2 Lomanco Whirlybirds 2 summers ago and I'm adding a third this summer.
What size of roofing nails are used?
The proper size.
Should the nails on the top side of the flashing go under the shingles? I presume so, but you never show that in the video or instructions in the kit.
YES! so the reason is for rust prevention aswell as securing it to the Wood. think about this wind lifts shingles up sometimes so u dotn want the nails to lift with it right? the bottom ones stay under so rain can "slide" down off the roofing shingles and not get under ur roof. i hope i answered your question in a way that makes sense to you as i only know what has been self taught to myself over these few years on earth
Thanks for the video! In have no vents out of the attic and need to install these. Thanks again.
You're Welcome!
Thank you that’s what was going to do on my roof 👍
Can I cut the same hole on the roof on Shake Shingle? I can't find any video for this kind of roof.
Thank you. Easy to understand & to the point. Can this be used to ventilate a pantry room (seems to get as hot as an oven ... not good for a food pantry!!!)?
ibamusicaphile I used a small one to ventilate my root cellar and it dried up all the moisture in there. My shelves were rotting before (they were 2" oak boards) with water dripping off the ceiling. After installation, dry as a bone. The intake was the drain pipe in the floor that went out into a field. (It was already installed for washing down the walls and floor with a hose).
is this an externally braced or internally braced installation? Im confused as to which is better.
This is an installation of an internally braced Whirlybird® Turbine vent. While the internally and externally braced turbines both have the same internal construction, the externally braced turbines have 3 braces that surround the outside of the turbine.
Thanks for the video! It would seem like water would easily get into it and then in your attic if it rains hard enough...
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration.
The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement.
The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine.
It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
Lomanco vents, including the whirlybird turbine series, that are marked or identified with "Miami-Dade Approved" has passed testing and met the requirements for use in the High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ).
These attic vents are tested at wind speeds of 30, 70, 90 and 110 mph while having a rainfall rate of 8.8 inches/hour applied to the test deck and vent. The first three wind speeds are applied for a duration of 15 minutes and the final wind speed of 110 mph is applied for 5 minutes. The testing is performed by a third-party laboratory that must be approved by Miami-Dade County.
Mine has been there since i’ve owned my house, 25 years. Not a drop of rain or flake of snow has gotten through to the attic. I did check often when i first bought the house because i was sure it would leak.
Does the flashing sit directly on the tar paper at the top and sides?
yes
Great guidance!
Glad it was helpful!
Easy to installation 😁
Sure is!
Does water ever get in those during a windy rainy day?
Nope. The Lomanco Whirlybird® is Miami-Dade Approved.
Awesome video spot on and great 👍 presentation! Worked like a charm. Thanks 🙏
Glad it helped!
Thks installing tomorrow
Thanks for this great video...best one I found!
Why not use screws with built-in rubber washers to install it to the roof, then put sealant over those, to be double safe? It's only a few screws.
Ah, I understand. It's important to follow Lomanco's installation instructions to maintain the warranty. Even though using screws with rubber washers and additional sealant might seem like a good idea for extra protection, deviating from Lomanco's guidelines could indeed void the warranty. Lomanco designs their installation procedures for optimal performance and longevity of their products, and sticking to these instructions is essential for keeping your warranty valid. It's always advisable to adhere to Lomanco's recommended installation methods to ensure both the effectiveness of the product and the integrity of the warranty.
Replaced just the head part on mine as existing bottom base was installed many moons ago.
However the head is not spinning!?? Help!
Properly installed turbines should be spinning with minimum wind speed. Every turbine is tested to spin at a wind speed of 3 MPH before leaving our manufacturing facility.
There are several factors that influence the the efficiency of a turbine. Turbines will work at maximum efficiency when the top of the turbine is over the roof peak. This will allow the wind to hit the turbine for all directions. The turbine also needs intake vents with an obstructed path to the turbines. Without intake vents, the turbines do not have a continuous flow of make up air. Mixing exhaust products will also have an adverse effect on the turbine. When multiple types of exhaust products are used, the chimney / stack effect is negated and the turbine does not draw from the intake as well.
If the turbine spins when you turn it by hand, but not when the wind is blowing, the bearings are probably worn out. If the bearings have gone out, contact customer service (800.643.5596) for warranty information.
What sized nut driver did you use? Also, don't you want to put the roofing tar on the underside of the flashing to prevent any leaking?
You can use a 5/16" nut driver or a flat screwdriver. The flashing should go underneath the shingles. Seal the adjusting seam and the
base/elbow connection seam on inside with
roofing cement. Seal locking clamp holes and
all exposed nails with roofing cement.
Complete installation instructions can be viewed here: media.lomancovents.com/all_access/instructions/20000_turbine_beb-bib_master.pdf
Could rain water come in through the holes in the vent
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration.
The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement.
The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine.
It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
Great video. I used it to install mine. Is there any difference in installation when having the roof redone? Having roofers do it wrong worries me.
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful for your installation! When it comes to having your roof redone, the installation process for the Whirlybird turbine should generally be the same. However, it's important to ensure that your roofing professionals are familiar with the specific installation guidelines from Lomanco. Communicating the importance of following these instructions to your roofers is key. If they have any doubts or questions, they can always refer to the installation video or Lomanco's documentation. Ensuring that the installation is done correctly is crucial, not just for the performance of the turbine but also to maintain its warranty. Don't hesitate to oversee or double-check their work for peace of mind.
Than k. your instructions are very good .
Great Video 👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it
That’s a nice information thanks
No problem!
How does it keep out the rain?
so the way the vent works is as explained. the fins are designed so that they face rain and its a exaust vent so its always spinning so the rain cant get inside. i hope i answered your question in a way that makes sense to you as i only know what has been self taught to myself over these few years on earth
That's great, thank you very much.
You are welcome!
How do these work in conjunction of a whole house fan? Also, do these have a way to shut them closed so in the winter you don't lose all the warm attic insulation?
There is no concern with installing a Lomanco Whirlybird® turbine and a whole house fan. Be sure to follow the whole house fan's manufacturer's recommendation as far as the NFA required.
We do not recommend covering turbines during the winter months. Attic ventilation systems are required year around. Most people associate attic ventilation with heat; however, of the two major destructive forces at work in your attic, moisture, not heat, is the most destructive. Since winter air is drier, it absorbs moisture from your home. The attic space is even more susceptible to excessive moisture in the winter. Plus when air is trapped inside the attic - it will always be warmer than the air outside. The roof sheathing/decking will be colder in winter months. Thus creating even more condensation. It can literally "rain" in your attic. This moisture produces mildew, rotting conditions that can damaging wood and destroy shingles, and can drip down to the ceiling below to damage plaster or paint. Insulation also becomes wet and provides less resistance to heat loss - in effect loses its R-value.
I cut a chunk of thick Styrofoam for a plug during Winter. You can cover them on roof but I prefer to not have to get up there twice a year.
I think placing 1 or 2 powered fans at the peak of the roof that can kick in at a certain temp, like my gabel fan would be best. these seam more a problem than a solution. I have one gabel exhaust fan. Better to put in a intake fan as well. Though I could activate the WHole House Fan to do that duty, yet often times you dont want to open a window or door for that.
Wait, aren't you supposed to make sure the turbine is HIGHER than the roof peak so that wind from either direction will spin it?
Turbines will work at maximum efficiency when the top of the turbine is over the ridge line. When installed at the peak of the roof, turbines will be exposed to the wind from all directions. On most pitched roofs, you will want to cut the hole about 18 - 24 inches from the peak of the roof.
This was great
ok
Glad you liked it.
Where is the best placement? I'm thinking of installing 2 on each side of the peak ,one in front and one in back, caddy corner. It's for a remodeled garage apartment. So I'm thinking the best place for one is over the kitchen since it's the hotest area? And the 2nd in the opposite corner of the room? Garage room is 16x19, what size/diameter turbine do you recommend?? Avg. 106° in summer. There is no other ventilation, hence 2?
Lomanco recommends 1 square foot of attic ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic floor space (50% exhaust and 50% in intake)
Let’s go through an example… For a home with 1,500 square feet of attic floor space, you’ll divide 1,500 by 300 = 5 square feet of attic ventilation. You divide 5 by 2 to provide half of the ventilation for intake and half as exhaust. Thus, 5 divided by 2 = 2.5 square feet of attic ventilation for intake and 2.5 square feet of attic ventilation for exhaust. To determine how many vents you will need, take the square feet recommended and multiply by 144 to convert to square inches. Thus, 2.5 X 144 = 360 square inches of attic ventilation is required for exhaust and 360 square inches for intake. Once you have determined how many square inches of ventilation you need and the Net Free Area of the product you are using, divide the Net Free Area (NFA) rating of the product by the NFA required. For example, the Lomanco 750 provides 50 square inches of ventilation, so if you are using the 750, you’ll divide 360 by 50. Thus, you would need 7.2 vents (8 because you always want to round up).
(NOTE: Some local building codes require that 1 square foot of ventilation be provided for every 150 square feet of attic space. Please check with your local building code office to ensure compliance to local requirements.)
Local roofing professionals and supply houses can assist you in determining the best ventilation system for your home. Lomanco provides a Vent Selector App and calculators on the pages of our website to help determine the ventilation required to meet minimum property standards. By meeting this minimum standard you will meet local building codes and fulfill the warranty requirements on major building components such as shingles and insulation.
Thank for the video !
I checked the roof pitch. What do you do when it's between lines? Use higher number or lower? I went with the higher number. My turbine does not level all the way around and looks leaning form the ground. I tried adjusting but no luck.
If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The base can be made level by turbine the "elbow" counter-clockwise (the elbow will move along the seam).
If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The base can be made level by turbine the "elbow" counter-clockwise (the elbow will move along the seam).
If you can get it to the middle point where it is most level you should not have any issues with the turbines performance.
Not all homes have a perfect pitch which can lead to a slight degree of not being level.
I know that this is probably a dumb question but how does rain not get in that gigantic whole in the roof?
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration.
The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement.
The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine.
It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
Hi Jimmie, I love your experience on replacing the new turnbin head, I would like to do the same as you did, but how can I know the size of my old turn in head so I can order the same one. And what is different beetwhin internal and external turnbine. Th.you for your help
Do you see when the head is put on and the screws are on the outside of the vent?
Mine were hidden inside and it took a little more troubleshooting to line up my head to vent holes.
I'm thinking that's the difference between internal and external turbine.
I see him sealing up the inside seams, but he doesn't say what he used to do so. Roofing cement? Is there any specific brand recommended?
Use a good quality roofing cement or other type sealent that meets the your local building codes specifications.
I removed my 12 in. from a 700sf. Space & will not go back!! I now have a solar fan I replaced it with! About 10° cooler!
Lomanco Solar Power Vents are your attic's best choice for solar powered protection against heat and moisture from sun-up to sun-down. We have created a unique design that is not only functional, but looks good on the roof.We have a Omni Solar Vent and Omni Solar Gable Vent. Both feature a 40+ Watt solar panel, the largest standard panel offered on solar attic vents. They also include a 10 year limited warranty and a 5 year limited warranty on the solar panel and motor. Other common features include a whisper quite motor and precision balanced 5 blade fan. The specification sheet has detailed information.
The Omni Solar Vent is a roof mount vent while the Omni Solar Gable Vent provides additional ventilation to gable vents. The installation couldn't be easier on both of the Solar Vents. In fact, there is no need for an electrician.
Thx
Any time
whats the likelihood of these vent allowing rainwater to get inside of your roof and attic?
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration.
The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement.
The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine.
It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
Just a question
Why is it important to determine the pitch of the roof to install a Whirlybird vent?
The pitch of the roof corresponds with a location number on the collar to position with a mark on the base to correctly align the collar so it can be adjusted to a level platform for proper install of the turbine head.
Whats the difference between BEB and BIB model ? Can some one explains to me so I could get the right one. thanks
We manufacture 3 sizes of turbines- 8”, 12”, and 14”.
The 12" turbine is available in aluminum and galvanized finishes as well as a Tile Roof Design. Whilybrid turbines are also available in two models - internally and externally braced. While the internally and externally braced turbines both have the same internal construction, the externally braced turbines have 3 braces that surround the outside of the turbine.
how would it suck the heat from below? why would it turn when it's heat at the bottom? what's the technical behind this?
The concept behind wind turbine vents is that the turning blades will help force air out of the attic. Hot air naturally rises, so if attic air is heated above the ambient air temperature a vent will allow the less dense hot air to escape. The air being exhausted MUST be replaced by outside air drawn through intake vents located near the lower part of the attic space to properly ventilate the total attic area.
Helpful information, thank you !
You're welcome!
Thank you!
Didn't see this answered...Do you seal under the flashing and some of the shingles pulled up?
Seal the adjusting seam and the base/elbow connection on the inside with roofing cement. Seal the clamp holes and all exposed nails with roofing cement. If needed you can seal under any shingles that were pulled up.
Is there a difference between internal and external braced whirlybirds? Is one better than the other?
Both styles of the Whirlybird® are internally braced the same. The external bracing is purely cosmetic.
What about the insect screen?
We have been manufacturing turbines since 1968 and we have no history of any significant bug or insect issues that have resulted form use of Lomanco Whirlybirds that would warrant adding a screen. The turbine should be spinning at minimal wind speeds and the moving parts should deter any animal or insect from entering the attic. Also, the heat exiting the turbine should deter from entering the attic.
We do understand the concern for protecting your attic and we know bugs can be creative and persistent. If you would like to add additional protection, you can attach a screen. Like you mentioned, you will reduce the airflow, but it shouldn't decrease the air flow too much. It will probably be easiest to attach the screen to the ceiling of the attic so it is flush with the bottom part of turbine.
Thank u so much u made my work so easy *****
What about preventing bugs n bees getting in when not spinning also will this work properly if I have a ridge vent n a vent ont the side of building
When "properly installed" Lomanco Whirlybirds will not allow weather / moisture infiltration. However, if the turbines are not installed correctly, there are some situations that can cause infiltration.
Let me discuss some common installation issues that can lead to infiltration...
The number one reason for failure is inadequate intake ventilation. Exhaust vents require intake vents to work properly. Without intake vents, the exhaust vents can feed from each other and allow weather to infiltrate.
There are several things to look at as far as installation - Is the hole cut the correct hole per instructions (12" diameter for a 12" turbine and 14" diameter for a 14" turbine)? Are all turbines installed at the same height? Same side of the roof?
Another common mistake is mixing exhaust vents. Are there any other vents other than turbines installed? Mixing exhaust vents such as turbines with ridge vents, turbines with gable vents, etc has the potential to cause problems.
Here is a link to Lomanco's 3 Must do Steps to Attic Ventilation. This flyer addresses some of the topics I've touched on.
We have been manufacturing turbines since 1968 and we have no history of any significant bug or critter issues that have resulted from the use of Lomanco Whirlybirds that would warrant adding a screen. The turbine should be spinning at minimal wind speeds and the moving parts should deter any animal or insect from entering the attic. Also, the heat exiting the turbine should deter from entering the attic.
I do understand the concern for protecting your attic and I know bugs/critters can be creative and persistent. If you would like to add additional protection, you can attach a screen. Keep in mind, anything blocking the free flow of air, such as a screen, will reduce airflow slightly, but the decrease should be minimal. I would suggest attaching the screen to the ceiling of the attic so it is flush with the bottom part of turbine.
As for your other question, Lomanco products are only design to properly function when properly installed on a roof.
@@Lomanco thank you so much for your time. I will try and address the situation I have. I have a ridge vent and a gable vent plus a window opposite of gable vent. But I do not have any soffit vents.
As for the wind speed another utuber stated that it will not spin if there is 0 to 5mph wind. Again thank you and if u have a vid on size and proper install of soft vents I would greatly look at that.
Whirlybird turbine vent can' t installed in clay roof?
We offer a 12" Whirlybird for a Tile Roof applications. The Tile Roof Whirlybird has a few modifications, most notably a taller throat, to make it the perfect wind powered turbine vent for all tile and slate roof constructions.
Here is a flyer with additional information - chrome-media.lomancovents.com/all_access/sales_literature/lo462_tile_roof_turbine.pdf
great vid...thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Oh yeah, your neighbors are going to love you when it gets old and makes that screeching metal on metal sound over their wind chimes.
Music to everyone's ears. Good call !
If you got the cheap ones with plastic bearing, yes. With the Whirlybird, you're paying extra for steel bearings. I got Whirlybirds that we put up 25+ years ago that are still spinning as silently as when they were new.
Where is the initial screw? Is it on the most downward part of the base?
For optimal operation, the turbine should be installed level to the ground. The turbine can also fail prematurely if the wobble continues over the life of the turbine.
The turbine head may have shifted slightly during transportation and minor adjustments may need to be made. A slight wobble can be adjusted by using a flat head screwdriver to pry the lowest point of the turbine upward.
If the base is not level, it may be necessary to make some adjustments. The pitch setting may need to be changed. The base (elbow) may be made level by adjusting the pitch to a different setting. The bottom of the elbow will turn clockwise (the elbow will move along the "seam") to align roof pitch number with the indicator line on the flashing.
Do two story houses need that
All homes require proper ventilation.
May wanna seal off the shingles you moved..
should seal back down on the next hot day
Yeah, this might cut it somewhere the weather is mostly nice (the 5:12 pitch is a bit of a dead giveaway), but where I live that wouldn't cut it.
I have a ridge vent with soffits…I don’t even feel airflow….with the whirley bird…what if u put too many turbines on a house but with proper ratio of soffits
As long as you have balanced intake and exhaust you can not over ventilate.
I have passive ridge vents and they are terrible. You can take an incense stick, the things that smell good, light it before you go into the attic then hold it close to the ridge vent. If it’s drawing good ot will pull the incense straight out. Mine DOES NOT hence the reason I’m here.
I have a ridge vent, gable vent, and undereave vents…..can I install the Whirly bird too??
NO! You want one TYPE of exhaust vent within a common attic area. Exhaust vents pull air from the easiest intake source. The use of two or more types of exhaust vents such as Power Vents with Roof Vents, Ridge Vents with Gable Vents, or any combination of exhaust louvers can make one of these vents act as intake for the other. Intake air should come from the soffit vent area to properly ventilate the total attic area and eliminate weather infiltration.
@@Lomanco Thank you so much!
@@Lomanco if i have more ridge vents than soffit, then will the air come in from the ridge and out of the soffit?
if theres a rain and with strongwind,how the water? it will get inside is not it?
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration.
The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement.
The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine.
It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
@@Lomanco : thank you
I think it would be great if we can add all tools and materials used in description so when we come back to look at video at actual time of installation we don't have to rewatch entire video and keep skipping to see what all he used.
Thank you, excellent video otherwise!
Thanks for your comment. Tools needed are listed on the instruction sheet with the product, but I see your point.
that type of coating are used in the roof, it appears Flexible; only used in climates without rain? or also can be used in rainy weather?
Any good quality roofing cement or sealant will do the job.
Diego Quispe
how does one properly install this vent on a cheap corrugated panel steel shed roof?
See this link - media.lomancovents.com/ALL_ACCESS/SALES_LITERATURE/LO465_Turbine_Metal_Roof.pdf
Wat if it's a flat roof?? It's for a barn shed...
Please let support know about your issue. www.support.lomanco.com/
Good job 👍
Thanks.
You are very good
What stops bugs getting in?
Because many products on the market include a filter that is marketing to keep both weather and bugs out, this is a commonly asked question.
Lomanco has no history of any bug or insect issues that resulted from use of our ridge vents. With features such as curved internal baffles, molded-in end plugs, and external baffles, you can see we have put a lot of thought and engineering into the design of our product. So with that, we did not overlook the bug question, we just determined it to be a lesser priority. Products with filters restrict bugs and insects, but they also restrict airflow. We are not willing to sacrifice airflow for something we have not had an issue with. Testing shows that a filter restricts air flow by as much as 33%.
A couple things to note - The vent will constantly be moving air. This is true under calm wind conditions and even more when there are winds present. Critters such as bugs and insects are less likely to try to enter a vent that has a steady flow of air pushing out of the vents.
My whirlybird heads both died. Can I replace the heads?
You could possibly be covered under the forever guarantee offered on the Lomanco Whirlybird. If you could please contact our customer service by starting a ticket in our Vent Center Support system on lomanco.com they will confirm if your issue is covered and handle replacement parts or a replacement vent. Vent Center Support is manned from 8am-5pm CST from Monday-Friday. You may also contact out customer service at our toll free number 1.800.643.5596. Here is the direct link to Vent Center Support: www.support.lomanco.com/
And now they behave in cold weather? In the cold does not freeze? They can be used all year round or only in warmer months?
All year, they may freeze but the will be fine
Remember that they will also spin in the winter, thus pulling that heat out of your attic space when you want it to remain. Some people go up in the fall and tie a bag around them for the winter, to prevent the heat loss.
@@zzz7zzz9 you don’t want heat in your attic. Ever hear of ice dams
@@discgolfdave you don't want your whirlys sucking heat from your home in the winter months.
Does it keep rain out?
When turbines are properly installed with a balanced system of intake and exhaust, they should not allow any weather infiltration.
The turbine has twenty-one (21) air-foil curved vanes with rolled edges to deflect water. The rolled edges are designed to force the water to run down the vanes & not into the attic. Air-foil means a body designed to provide a desired reaction force when in motion relative to the surrounding area. To summarize, the turbine should be turning at all times when there is outside air movement.
The centrifugal force of the turbine also prevents leakage. Centrifugal force is the force that tends to impel a thing or parts of a thing, such as rain, outward from a center of rotation, such as the bearing/shaft assembly in the turbine.
It is important that the unit be sealed with roofing cement around all seams, nails, and under the flashing. The part of the flashing that is facing the roof peak should be installed underneath the shingles and the bottom part should be overlapping the shingles. Sealing in this manner prevents water from entering the attic under the flashing.
Dose the vet go under the tar paper as well or just the shingles?
Slide the top half of the turbine base flashing under the shingles.
Under tar paper and shingle . water Drip from above vent goes over tar paper.
Informative video! Bravo Zulu! Might want to make a metal roof video as well.
Could you put letters behind the guy or other place please?
I Ger Gonzalez CZcams positions the closed captions. The is no control to position them in another place. You can choose to view them or you can turn them off. How that helps.
Thanks!
Welcome!