I Know It Runs! SO Why Doesn't This Beautiful Mustang Start?
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- čas přidán 12. 02. 2024
- Sometimes it feels like there is a gremlin living under the hood of your car. That's exactly what the owner of this 1966 Ford Mustang is thinking. When it does start it runs great, but it only starts 1 in 20 tries. What's up with that? ➡️ Don't forget to check out @MrsWizardsWays. Her latest Partworks eBay auction ends tomorrow (2/14/2024): www.ebay.com/usr/davidthecarw...
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#carrepair #carwizard #carmechanic #autorepairshop #automobile #cars #car #ford #fordmustang #classicmustang #musclecar #musclecars #fordmustangs #mustang #mustangs #mustangcar #vintagecars #wiring - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Having a shop that fixes it correctly the first time is invaluable. Worth every penny
My shop takes about 20 tries before they fix it, and usually they break something else along the way.
@winterburden then stop going there
I remember in the 1980s when vehicles were becoming more and more computer dependent and carburetors were being replaced by electronic fuel injection, there was a repair shop in my area that was known to be the first independent shop that had an electronic diagnostic machine. Vehicles would line up outside of the shop by the dozen at times to await their turn to get whatever the issue was diagnosed. Many of these vehicles were Lincoln Town Cars or Mercury Grand Marquis owned by for-hire vehicle operators for whom time was of the essence. The common refrain was that they didn't necessarily care about the cost of the diagnoses; all they wanted was for their vehicles to be fixed right the first time. By coincidence, there was a Ford dealership within walking distance of this repair shop; if the replacement part(s) were in stock, they were purchased and installed within a relatively short period of time. Inevitably, it was less costly, both in money and time, to get the repairs done right the first time.
@@winterburdenI have a youtube subscription so I don't see ads. I'm very curious why a monetized channel is adding BetterUp ads (last video). Especially when the Repair shop is in business too. Maybe a video is needed to explain this.
shop costs are so high these days it's difficult to take the time to properly diagnose and repair. Most shops just don't have the space to have a car sit around until a busy tech can get back to it.
I like that your shop found other issues with the car, like the battery not charging and the connector being bad. Some places just do A, B, and C because there are other cars waiting. But you're not trying to pad the bill, you want the customer to take the car on the road with confidence. In the process, you fixed a problem the customer didn't know they had. Since this car is obviously a treasure to the customer, paying a bit more is well worth it.
Ignition switch
I hope Danielson is compensated accordingly. He's obviously a skilled technician
Tiffany blue.
@@Notfiveo0 yup good call
Not that it’s our business. But I guess if he wasn’t he wouldn’t work there.
He is a ferrari specialist, these sort of mechanics do not grow on trees. Wizard got a great crew surrounding him, if the pay was shit i do not think these guys would be working there.And a good working atmosphere goes a long way! No pay can compensate for those kind of benefits.
I realize this isn't a concours show car, but sometimes the old voltage regulator cover will fit onto the base of the new voltage regulator, giving it new insides while preserving the old outside look. :>)
Should have got a replacement, I am sure they would have it
Replaced the analog regulator with an electronic regulator.
Tell by looking.
THAT WAS an electronic regulator he shook that rattled, with the old style large voltage regulator cover attached to it. It just went bad.
Another great video. Only thing missing was we didn't get to hear that pony run!
Yes, I wanted to hear it run.
Yes, definitely required a TEST DRIVE 🙂
Ya I definitely wanted to hear it run :-(
I wish you would have started the engine. I wanted to hear that sweet little Mustang running.
Vapor lock is a MF”er !! Had a 70 challenger RT, most pain in the ass car I ve ever owned. I put a 1” spacer under the carburetor to help solve that issue .
Its special for sure, its a fastback!
Rewiring the starting circuit was the best part of this repair. That the electrical current trying to get to the solenoid from the key switch was "causing the wire to get hot" was a recipe for a car fire. The gauge of a wire needs to be sized to the power requirements of the circuit. The high current demands of the starting solenoid are now handled by the relay that you added along with the additional heavy gauge wire. The key switch now has become the engage signal for the starter and no longer expected to supply the starting solenoid with the high current it requires. This customer doesn't know how lucky they are as you potentially saved them from burning down their car. Kudos to your team for engineering this repair correctly.
Well, the car's been rewired and it isn't a tock starter and solenoid because the stock solenoid is located on the right fender, not on the starter. The solenoid on the original handled the high voltage, the ignition wire was only about 1amp originally. 18 or 20 ga would have been fine. Old mustangs were notoriously easy to hot wire. JUst run a wire from the + on the battery to the + on the coil, jump the solenoid with a screwdriver and off you went
@@muskokamike127 I never had to run a wire, just turn the switch to "on" (mine was so worn I even tested it with a screwdriver) and jump the solenoid.
@@feoxorus I had a 1970 satellite sebring that was like that. I discovered it one day when I pulled the key out and forgot to turn it to the left...hey wait...what? put the key in, turned it off, then put the key like 1/4 the way in, started it lol
OH kay, better not let my buddies know this at school or my car will end up in the burger joint parking lot 3 blocks away hahaha
@@muskokamike127 Righto. I have worked on and own plenty of these kind of fords and the factory solenoid is easy to activate, never heard of any problem operating them. So I was skeptical of this. But I saw no regular solenoid. Like you say someone modified this and it apparently needed more juice to work. Pretty lame people that tried to fix this before and couldn't figure it out. It would have been pretty easy to troubleshoot. I would have done some hotwiring just to see if the solenoid would actuate. Since it then would I would know somehow the juice (and in this case just not enough) was not getting to it. Might have even realized some non factory solenoid may need more juice. Always bad when people that don't really understand electrical start doing parts replacing and cause something like this.
I am an expert at nothing........but 1966 Mustang fastback!!! I bought my Mustang in FEB 1975 and was my daily driver for many years. I did a rolling rebuild early on as needed. In 2016 we started a complete restore. Finished in time for the 2019 Mustang 55th anniversary show at Charlotte Motor speedway. I have touched every square inch of this car. If this is a good regular customer I'd suggest they save up their pennies and buy a firewall forward wire harness. A harness is not costly and will solve and prevent many issues. There seems to be some funky things going on under the hood. thx
And under that dash.....lol
@@will7its Agree - could definitely do with a 'tidy-up'.
Car Wizard, Almost at 1 million subs. How awesome!!!!!
Very elegant solution.
My Dad had a 66 Mustang manual 289 when I got my license in 1976. I had a lot of fun driving that car.
"There's always more". So profound and so true. This sums up working on any vehicle.
Transmission is a Borg Warner T5 replacement. Original was a 4-speed.
I'm a Mustang dork and I'm currently doing a concours resto on a '66 fastback. Not everything has to be factory perfect for everyone, and I definitely appreciate the freedom of having a driver car that looks good on the outside, but that whole setup gives me the heebie-jeebies, especially the wiring situation! Kudos for finding that small-gauge wiring problem though!
Yeah, I felt that way too. Perhaps it was used in racing at one time or was fixed on by someone with racing tech knowledge?
It's great to see a car like that, looking good, nice and honest without pretension. I'm glad you sorted it out for the owner.
My favorite 289 Ford, was the 64 Falcon Sprint. A friend had one and it caught out more stoplight racers than any other car I've see from the era. The funiest was the look on a guy's face, who just had the doors blown off his brand new 68 Charger, by this unassuming little Falcon.
My dad's first car was a '63 falcon sprint with a 260 V8 and 3 speed.
He said about the same thing as you about that car.
He said it would only do about 120 or so, but it sure got there quick.
The Mustang was basically a rebodied Falcon. Steering suspension etc was off the Galcon/Comet.
Hell yeah, my family was big into Falcons, Ranchero, convertibles, wagons, sprints, and hard top 64 and 65s. I love those little cars. My first was a 1965 Falcon stationwagon with about 300k miles on it when I got it. It taught me the basics of maintenance and the value of keeping them running.
We kept making the Falcon in Australia until about 2015. Still basically the same deal. A massive engine in a practical sedan.
Great job Omega! Keep those wonderful old daily drivers like that beautiful Mustang rolling safely on the roads
What an AWESOME!, AWESOME COMPLETE FAIRLY PRICED JOB!!! So nice to see an honest mechanic!!!
Mr Wizard, I wish there is more business men like you around that are not always trying to see how much they can make of a client. Congratulations an God bless you and your family.
fun car no need for a concoursclevel- and so nice to see a shop fix it right without gouging
Earl Scheib: "I'll paint any car, any color for $99.95!"
I remember when it was $29.99
Not anymore. Inflation. It is now 399.99
@@andysupple4838it was $29.95
The good old days
@@andysupple4838 Same here. I had a girlfriend in high school that had a summer job at the local Earl Scheib as a taper...I remember thinking at the time if she was skilled/qualified 😉
Nice to know that parts are still available for these old classics.
This reminds me of a motel we stayed at in Wyoming in the 70s. The room had a window air conditioner plugged into a standard 16 gauge extension cord. The plug was melting in the wall socket. Lucky the place didn't burn down (or maybe it did!).
I wonder if the move to 220V was done in part to force people to put in a dedicated circuit for their window units and avoid wiring hazards like that.
worked for a mold shop that had 200ft of 16ga. cord going 30ft to two pop machines, I told the boss the cords were real hot, he didn't say much. Came in after the week-end and the cord outlets were fried.
what you guys did is WHY YOU ARE SUCCESSFUL. Kudos to you and your team. Super principled business acumen.
That’s excellent diagnosis skills! And a very neat fix for the starting issue!!
That vapor lock issue happened to my family’s old 86 suburban, we lived in the desert and when it was mid summer you’d be driving down the highway and it would pulsate the whole vehicle because it wasn’t getting ample fuel. I miss those efficient 9 miles a gallon vehicles. Not as good as today but had way more personality
The fact that the mechanical pump has to SUCK the fuel all the way forward with a slight negative pressure actually reduces the temperature needed to vapourise the fuel in the line.
Since you were driving through the desert the radiant heat off the tarmac /road surface would mean the fuel was part vapour by the time it reached the pump...
and by the time the metal fuel line from the pump then ran around the front of the engine and up to the carb...meant mostly vapour entered the carb.
The XJ6 and XJ12 Jaguars had a cooling circuit off the a/c lines to condense the fuel and make sure liquid fuel got to the carb...
What a beautiful car. It was brought to the right place for maintenance. Nicely done. Great video.
Very nice, I grew up with these cars as well. I'm happy when I still see them on the road. Glad there's always someone out there to help keep them going.
That is a beautiful daily driver; my favorite body style of the Mustang!
I hate vapor lock.
My anti vapor lock setup (in Phoenix, AZ!) on my 67 Mustang fastback and 64 Lincoln.
1. An electric pump (I like in tank, quieter) wired on a relay. No mechanical pump.
2. Plumbed with a return line to the tank...tee fitting as close to carb inlet as possible....pressure regulator in the return line.
3. Insulated feed line (not really needed).
4. Thin phenolic carb spacer.
5. Heat shroud between carb and intake manifold to block some heat from the carb bowls.
6. I wrap the carb bowls in a frozen diaper before leaving (just kidding).
I have a Holley on the mustang and an Edelbrock on the Lincoln. I've never had vapor lock since, even on 110 F days. The electric fuel pump and return line just keeps recycling fuel...that's the key. The feed fuel doesn't have to pass through a hot mechanical fuel pump on its way to the carb. A dead head fuel hookup EQUALS vapor lock with today's fuel in traffic on a hot day. The hot fuel/vapor needs a route back to the tank instead of the carb.
I also run aluminum radiators with a shroud and dual, hurricane inducing Spal electric fans with Autocoolguy pulse width modulators. Neither car overheats and the modulators only give as much fan as needed in 10% increments.
That's just me, though.
I got my mom’s 68 mustang, that had set inside for 33 years. I put in a new mech fuel pump, fuel lines and sending unit, new voltage regulator, new oil pressure sending unit, cleaned the points, and rebuilt the carb. Starts right up and drives great after that. It sat because it was a rebuilt 289 with a new holley carb, and carb tuning wasn’t dad’s forte.
Listening to Mrs. wizard reminds me of a more in-depth Mecum auto show, love it!
One small item to add - the minute you mentioned voltage regulators - I had similar problems with a '72 Celica years ago. The alternator was good, but the voltage regulators would fail with surprising regularity. Eventually we tracked it down to a series of grounding faults in the engine compartment wiring. Just old wires that started to crack with age. Some quality time with the Haynes manual, and a spool of fresh wire, and we were able to stabilize the problem.
The clue came while driving on the freeway one day - the ammeter in the dash would go from charging to discharging going over bumps ... so that's a thing too.
In the end of video it would have been nice to hear it running...
Yeah a EV will never sound that good !!
Wizard is above and beyond as is the entire staff...A lot of shops would have passed on this car simply because of it age.....
‘66 Ford Lawn-burner GT fastback. Do burnouts, get sideways, and scare old ladies. The Kragers look awesome. That smell that Mrs. Wizard was trying to describe, is a combination of leather, gasoline, cigarettes, and punani - ‘Merica! I used to have one of these bad boys and it’s definitely a slice of Americana - smells like freedom. Aces! The Mustangs were never the highest quality built, but that’s not what they are for. They’re for going to beach parties and making out at the drive-ins. Tell me I’m wrong. And oh yeah, getting sideways on somebody’s lawn. Great video - I love another success story- keep up the good work. Wizard!
Not leather seats, vinyl.
Good Job Daniel San !
Daniel San. Like in karate kid.
NO computer! NO crappy plastic HVAC actuators! NO pulling the dash to change the heater core! NO electronic ANYTHING (except for maybe ignition>>I still like points). Popular model with LOTS of aftermarket support. As long as it doesn't rust or get wrecked, easy to fix almost FOREVER.
The performance of the Mustang - would definitely benefit from Electronic Ignition, with no more Contact Breaker Points to set / adjust. Ignition Timing would remain spot-on.
BINGO and I bet the environmental impact is half that of modern cars. I learned on these vehicles. SO easy to work on . The heater core, made me laugh, you can actually see it when sitting in the passenger seat lol. 2 bolts and 2 hoses, DONE.
I own an 87 Buick Turbo T, the sister to the Grand National.......car is immaculate......one problem.........I have a significant battery drain when the car is parked.........it's driving me Crazy!
Wow! That's awesome how far it has gone! Reliability and comfort is huge! Always believe that if you take care of your car it will take care of you. I don't mind spending money to keep things up. Having it run good and look good. That's quite a lot of work done. Between parts and labour 2 grand isn't that bad.
Keep up the good work guys! Quite enjoy your videos!
Excellent work as always Wizard. Daniel son as well. I wish every mechanic was doing like you guys. Thanks.
Mr. Wizard, I had owned a classic with that burn your down rig fuel filter. Been recently viewing your videos. My kind of mechanic . Hopefully you place out that glass filter, my old Chevelle leaked one time & almost burnt her down
Great job with the video as a mustang owner I will use some of your knowledge to help me to keep both my 65 and 89 running, you should always recommend to people to keep a fire extinguisher on board,when I was a firefighter every car fire I went to was totaled!
Never thought I’d hear the word “yeet” come out of the Car Wizard’s mouth😂 11:50
Not a mustang expert by any stretch, but I’m guessing it’s a 66 fastback. The color is amazing. Sea foam green?
Coolest car you have ever had in the shop.
Nice wheels, far from perfect but drivable enough to have fun, which is priceless !!
Interesting diagnosis. Well done Sir. But 500 to 600 bucks to run a larger gauge wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid? For DIY people out there, it's not hard to replace that wire. Buy an ignition switch pigtail, remove the nut on the back of the ignition switch, remove the round connector and cut the wires right at the connector, solder or crimp connect the new pigtail on to the existing wiring except for the starter wire (red/blue stripe) which you'll attach to 10" of 14 gauge stranded wire. Now run that wire to the solenoid along the existing harness.
Aint that a beauty! My father had a 66 mustang growing up. He loved it! Was a purple-blue with a metallic flake. I hope to one day get him an old school mustang as a gift. Still had the 289 Decal in the garage he grew up in so I put it on my truck.
Good job done here but I have to pick on one thing. Replacing just the battery cable end. Cables that short do not cost much, and you could put a red one on the positive side to help someone more easily identify the positive side. As a fleet mechanic I have jump started many of our employees personal cars to get them home. Many of the cars started by just cleaning up the connection were the old wire goes into this style replacement end.
Beautiful Mustang owner go to your auto part store get some new complete cables one positive one negative, the battery ends are different sizes. Also make sure the stud size on the other end are correct. Have the store order the right length if needed, same as what is there, so it looks nice. Or have the Car Wizard look the right cables up and give you the part number. These guys do good work and the ends they put on will most likely last many years, but there is a better way.
When I did my 67 before I had the paint done I did a complete new wiring harness from nose to tail and HEI Distributor took out the old DC alt and put in a one wire 100 amp cleaned out all that wasn't needed anymore no coil ,voltage regulator life made simple always enjoy your videos Sir
That engine is called a Windsor small block. It came in 221, 260, 289, and 302 varients. The 351W looked the same but had a taller deck height to accommodate the 3.5" stroke.
I have heard that the motors from the Windsor plant went in trucks, and Clevelands generally went in cars. I'm pretty sure that was just something stupid that I heard somewhere.
Were there design differences between the Windsor and Cleveland?
Note: The gas cap in the rear is incorrect; it's for a 1965 Mustang.
The grill is a '65.
The tail lights are also 1965.
Well done Daniel-san
In 1967 I was 16 years old living in Jackson MS. My Dad was state mgr for Brown-Foreman Distillery selling Old Forester, Early Times and Jack Daniel's. He knew quite a few influential folks like the governor John Bell Williams and Senator John Stennis. So, imagine my surprise when he asked me if I would like to buy the 1965 Mustang that belonged to the Senator's wife. This was my first car and it was extremely rare. It was a straight 6 factory '4' speed with factory air, all powder blue inside and out and less than 20k on the clock. Dad bought it for $700.00 and then I paid him back. I mention all this, as I see this 1966 version is showing a 5 speed. I know there were no 5 speeds available in '65 and fairly sure '66 was still 3 and 4 speeds, only. If I have this wrong, I am sure someone will let me know.
I owned several late 60's Fords, and I got great service from all of them. The one issue that I had with several of them was with the starter solenoid, which is mounted on the passenger side wheelhousing. When it goes bad, it has very weird effects on the driveability of the engine. Example, driving on the freeway, electrical system goes completely dead-no lights, no ignition-nothing. I got my rubber mallet and gave several thumps to the solenoid. Got back in the car, started it up-drove it home. Got home. turned off the key, and the engine kept on running as if the ignition was on. The only way I could shut it off was to pull the coil wire. I bought a new starter solenoid the next day, installed it, and the car ran great for the 3 more years I owned it. BILL
$150 dollars. That's awesome
Color used to be called Robin's Egg Blue. Popular in 1950's.
Doing this in the 70s was always a problem. With HP motors. Glad you posted this.
This video will be one of your biggest audience. Really enjoyed it. Watching from the Philippines 🌴
Good Job Daniel and Wizard!!! on fixing all the electrical issues!!
Not put on lift??
This was a budget fix done right! I love to see these kinds of fixes
Clearly aftermarket - late model "5-Speed" - as Mustang's of the age didn't come with a 5-Speed - limited to a 4 speed :) You and your Team do a GREAT Job!!!!
Mustang 4 speeds are rather expensive while the T5 boxes from the fox bodies are plentiful and cheap. It's a decent upgrade.
I believe electric pumps are added due to the crappy fuel we have now 😮
Yeah, modern fuel boils at a much lower temperature than old gasoline did. Not a problem with fuel injected cars under 50+psi, but it is with old cars running a few psi.
You guys are good to be able to fix all those things in a timely matter.
I put one of these same type "relay" bypass units on my Jeep trucks after I converted it to HEI from the OEM dura-spark "crap" system.
Run the 12v from fuse panel under dash to relay, that had Direct 12v to Dist.
So when key is in 'ON" position the fuse panel energizes the HEI Direct from battery.
NAPA has these little relays.
JEGS and SUMMIT all the bigboy racing outfits sell the exact same thing for about 10X more in a fancy race looking brace.
It's a pure BS deal, 1000% mark up on a $8.00 relay NAPA has.
Look at the circuit diagram pin out of them. They are exactly the same.
PN is BK 7350078 at NAPA , 40A 14VDC .
You're welcome
Not only do I LOVE that color, but I love the fact that the owner or restorer did it in simple one-stage paint. Modern ultra-shiny paint jobs on vintage cars look horrible IMO- they take away all the charm of a vintage car, because those vintage cars never had that kind of paint. This 'Stang was very tastefully done.
I added an inline 12v fuel pump to a 1986 Mazda B2000 I had. Its fuel system had 3 lines: pressure, return and vapor. It was otherwise a very reliable truck.
That color is called Frost Turquoise. It was a factory Mustang color for 1967, as well as other Ford products. I have an original 67 Mustang in this color
It was called Arcadian Blue in 1966.
😮
SSDD, non-value added.
@@JSFGuyplease stop giving this 👦 boy - Bot attention. That is exactly what he wants .ignore it !!..
@@willydavid don't need to do a search on that because screw tube will protect the thin skin innocent on here. Same stuff different day.
Ahhh… with old cars there’s always more, but we live for that 😂
One of your best videos. Just really informative from start to finish.
Arrest the person who painted that car.
If my memory is correct that was an available color. I do agree with you it's not my first or even last choice
Definitely wouldn't have been my choice of colors.
Womp womp better than your car
Wouldn’t look bad with some white rims
Oh and delete the bumpers
It’s special because it’s a survivor and a fastback. What a beautiful car.
This video represents my youth about cars. Those damn voltage regulators. My first car had breaker points. Miles of vacuum hose. The electrical starting issue would not have happened then because it would have been the original wiring. My guess is Daniel was a pig in slop working on this. Many thanks Wizard.
These old cars are great. No high tech computer needed to diagnose issues.
That's wild about the vapor lock! I owned a 1967 Falcon Sports Coupe (289) until 1988, a 1967 Mustang Convertible (I-6-200) until 1983, a 1965 Mustang Notchback (I-6-200) until 1996 and sold my 1963 Falcon 144 (I-6) about 4 years ago. Ran into some wierd problems on all of them, but that vapor lock SNAFU is a new one. Great video, as always!-John in Texas
I love watching the wizards videos. And I understand it's nothing spectacular, But I really wish I could have heard it run. I just really love The sound of old muscle cars
In the mid/late 70's we all wanted one - still do.
An analogy I learned about corrosion and current is this- riding a bike on a paved road. If you suddenly hit a spot with 2 inches of sand, it slows you down in a hurry and takes extra effort to pedal through.
When I was a kid, back in the '60s, vapor lock was very common.
Beautiful driver. Brings back lots of memories. Thank you Mr & Mrs Wizard ❤
My dad had a sprint car that color, he said it was Aquatone Blue. A 1956 Ford color. He even painted his fleet of trucks that color with red and black trim. Nice color.
9:00 Re: small wire
Some engines used a resistance wire (what I called it) on old style distributors. When upgrading to a newer style, that wire caused issues also.
Now that's a real car
great diagnosis and economical fixes, thanks Wizard
What a beauty. They certainly don't make'em like that anymore!
I like that you have the skills to diagnose, and fix it right.
You know, my parents bought a Mustang, brand new, in '65, that had a similar problem, but, theirs was a 200 cid six. The dealership ended up buying it back after having it in their shop 10+ times.
I troubleshoot elevator systems, and Kenda really appreciate the diagnostics that you guys did to fix those problems once and for all. Very satisfying, keep up the good work thank you guys.
The Wizards must be protected at all costs!!! Absolutely amazing.
Those old Mustangs with black interior during the summer. That first time you get in after sitting in the sun all day was painful.
"Won't crank" is usually simple to diagnose. The starting circuit in my 1996 Plymouth is identical to my 1964 Valiant. The only difference is that the 1996 uses a standard Bosch 30A relay in the fuse/relay box, rather than a custom relay on the firewall. They even both use the same Neutral Safety Switch. That disables coil- of the relay if the transmission is not in "P" or "N" (or clutch pedal pushed for a manual). A common problem is that the trans isn't in "P", despite what the shift indicator shows. Try wiggling the shifter around the "N" position and you might get "N" in the transmission and be able to crank.
I had a 55 Chevrolet just like that. I found that the resister was fine and the wiring for that was fine but when starting the coil needs 12 volts from the starter solenoid just when starting was gone. The wire was not there. Made a new wire from the 12 volt side of solenoid that sends 12 volts to the coil when starting. Cranks every time. Guess what the 70 GTO I bought was exactly the same way, they said it was hard to start. I looked it over and that wire from the solenoid to the hot side of coil was missing. In fact the solenoid did not even have a place for this wire. It was a newer solenoid that did not have this wire. Replaced Solenoid. This is only needed for starting and is very necessary. If it is hard to start when hot this is probably the problem. I also installed a newer electronic distributor Which does not need the resistor. Works even better now.
I like learning a new detail every day. I consider myself a car nut but I truly did not know about that new fuel issue with these older cars, maybe it's because Ive never heard it mentioned anywhere else or at least heard it explained as simply as it was here.
Amazing job getting this beauty up to par guys. 🏆
Thank you Car Wizard! I have been having almost exact vapor lock issue with my 66' Corvette! Ive been wondering if it was the newer gas formulations! I just ordered an electric pump to install by the tank. I love your videos and your very Ernest approach to mechanics and life. Keep doing good work it will only show that knowledge and skill is power and you are wielding it for good causes. I send links to people that have issues with cars you have worked on. And have settled some bets about the reliability of certain brands. You hold some serious street cred with car people. I love learning about how to diagnose issues and get my cars running well. I like your systematic approach.Take care and say hi to Mrs Wizard.
I had a 1975 Alfa Romeo Spider that had this exact problem. I never figured it out. 2 owners later, the guy figured it out. I met him, seeing my old car 10 years after selling it and he told me about the small replacement wire.