Marion, I have 2017 Ram with the 68re and my transmission was running higher than normal about 200 degrees during normal driving conditions. I replaced with the bypass unit and now runs cooler between 145 and 165 degrees. After my last fluid and filter change the fluid no longer smelled like it was overheating or burning from higher temperatures. Thanks for all you do to keep us informed about our Ram Cummins rigs.
Thanks Marion! I put a bypass on mine a couple years ago after seeing many forum posts of people that had problems. The bypass blocks also allow more flow.
Just completed a 3,300 mile trip after installing the ATS bypass valve. My transmission temp stayed in the 145-150 degree range while towing a 25' Airstream.
I always enjoy your videos and appreciate the fact that you share your knowledge. I have a 2011 Ram CTD with the 68 RFE. I have a transmission heating issue I deal with pulling heavy trailers on rough dirt and gravel roads here in rural Montana. I finally figured out that the torque convert doesn't lock in 2 wd or 4wd high until 30 mph so I was getting a lot of heat from the torque converter because the roads are so rough you can't maintain 30+ mph. I solved it by using 4 wd low on those sections because the torque converter is always locked in 4 low.
Hi Mr. Blair: Great videos, and with all the money you've helped me save I surely owe you a load of adult beverages. I'm a relatively new Cummins owner, so just a thought for some future videos if you are interested. Maybe its a Cummins 101, or "Diesels for Dummies": About engine braking - the principles, and how it applies to Cummins / Rams. EGR - again, the how's and why's. Best maintenance practices? The regen cycle - how it works, and how to tell when the truck initiates a cycle. About variable geometry turbines: how they work, and any best practices to keep them healthy. This is my first diesel vehicle, a '18 Ram 3500 dually, and I learn something new about it almost every day. It sure aint' no gasser.
I changed mine out on my 2018 Ram with a Mishimoto version. I had to replace about 1.5qts of ATF fluid when all the dust settled. The temps are much lower on the instrument cluster now. I average about 130-140F pulling my 17,000lb 5th wheel through Idaho. The highest I have seen is 180F and that was on a very steep and slow dirt road, that temperature came down quickly when I put the truck in 4LO though. This is a little modification that I would do again.
I just put in an ATS Thermal Bypass Valve Delete a few weeks ago on my '16 3500 with the Aisin trans. It was about $105 on Amazon. Easy swap and now the trans runs a lot cooler. Cooler is always better.
I'm a big fan of the PPE TBV delete as it has a Neodymium magnet to collect any ferrous trash the TC is dropping. I was finally able to find one for my '22 2500 since the 19+ ones have been low on stock and I'll be checking that magnet every time I service the transmission just to keep an eye on things. Once we get past the latest RFE recall (waiting to see what the issue/fix is from FCA) I'll also be installing the PPE flat bottom pan, their extended spin on filter w/metal nipple, and the ATS case brace. If you could do a PI Curve relearn (only applies to '19+) without WiTech I'd also be putting a RevMax Billet VB in it, but that'll have to wait. Most of the transmission guys I know say there's 3 things that kill RFE's in stock/non abusive applications - 1.) Heat and fluid cleanliness, keeping them regularly maintained and temps in check goes along way to longevity 2.) The case is weak and can flex. If you regularly tow heavy, put it under alot of load, etc the case can crack on the topside. This one isn't as common, but it can happen. 3.) The valve bodies are subpar and known to flex. Some guys I know have the thought process that bracing the case/stiffer pan early on can help, but a better VB is a better cure/fix. They develop a lot of cross leaks, the accumulator pistons don't hold pressure well, and some of the valves are known to wear/leak. I usually keep my trucks for 8-12 years (this one will be kept for a good long while with rates the way they are) so I like to do what I can within reason to fix deficiencies when I do my 1st round of servicing.
Heads up when your remove the lines from the cooler quiet a bit will drain, be prepared. And then you are best off filling it with oil, starting it into all the gears and shutting off and checking again. Took me a couple weeks to get it right on after my change
I still have the bypass installed on my truck. But… I would think you might want to keep it if you live in Wyoming, but if I lived were you do, I would remove it.
This was the first modification I performed on my 2017 - with 500 miles on the OD - I swapped the OEM Junk with a ATS thermal by-pass delete block - my trans temps never get over 175*F even while towing.
I forgot to add that I bought the aftermarket transmission pan with the drain plug and what a difference it makes when changing the fluid and filter. A Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family also.
Wonder if I can add that to my 17 Durango..NYC traffic! Trans temp stays at 203*but would go up 210…the truck feels more powerful when it’s between 175 - 190
I have a GMC yukon 2011, I can't find out the problem that why the transmission is heating up even though my transmission has been overhauled, but it's still heating up. any suggestions?
When you swap out your bypass have you looked at Mishimoto? They have one that you can leave the valve in (it opens sooner and has better flow) or you can take out the valve. I can't wait for your transmission service video.
Just a thought, it popped up demanding my attention. With this valve being not terribly essential. would it help anthing to engineer up a replacement item that would route the fluid along its normal path and add a filter to clear up the crap clutter? It does not look like there is a surplus of real estate to use a cheap fram or other from the engine oil filter shelf? Just a thought.
There's after market ones that are inexpensive and do what you mentioned. www.atsdiesel.com/ats-68rfe-as69rc-thermal-bypass-valve-up-grade-w-billet-filter-coupler-2013-2018-ram-6-7l-cummins
I replaced mine with the ATS block at 9000 miles, also added their deep transmission pan and their transmission case brace. Trans runs between 140-145.
I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500 and I’m having problems with my transmission heating up I noticed my transmission fluid wasn’t coming up to my transmission cooler could this solve my problem or any advice on what I should do to solve my issue
I CA'NT REACH OPERATING TEMP. ON CHEVY SONIC SPEC. 185F-203F // I CAN ONLY REACH 176F HIGHEST. I ALSO DROVE 94 MILES - TEMP. WAS 135F AFTER 15 MIN. WAIT BEFORE CHECKING TEMP. WHAT'S CAUSING THIS???
Mine is leaking from the return cooler side front and back do i need to replace the whole box or just orings? Would this also cause my car to overheat with ac on ? Ty in advance 🫶
Marion, I have 2017 Ram with the 68re and my transmission was running higher than normal about 200 degrees during normal driving conditions. I replaced with the bypass unit and now runs cooler between 145 and 165 degrees. After my last fluid and filter change the fluid no longer smelled like it was overheating or burning from higher temperatures. Thanks for all you do to keep us informed about our Ram Cummins rigs.
Thanks Marion! I put a bypass on mine a couple years ago after seeing many forum posts of people that had problems. The bypass blocks also allow more flow.
Yes I agree especially when towing we need all the flow we can get and I don’t wanna have to worry about that damn thing plugging up
Just completed a 3,300 mile trip after installing the ATS bypass valve. My transmission temp stayed in the 145-150 degree range while towing a 25' Airstream.
Its a big additional knowledge,thank you very much for the info
I always enjoy your videos and appreciate the fact that you share your knowledge. I have a 2011 Ram CTD with the 68 RFE. I have a transmission heating issue I deal with pulling heavy trailers on rough dirt and gravel roads here in rural Montana. I finally figured out that the torque convert doesn't lock in 2 wd or 4wd high until 30 mph so I was getting a lot of heat from the torque converter because the roads are so rough you can't maintain 30+ mph. I solved it by using 4 wd low on those sections because the torque converter is always locked in 4 low.
Another premium quality video about something we need to know, but did not even know we needed to know. M.B. - the NASA science guy on Rams.
Hi Mr. Blair: Great videos, and with all the money you've helped me save I surely owe you a load of adult beverages. I'm a relatively new Cummins owner, so just a thought for some future videos if you are interested. Maybe its a Cummins 101, or "Diesels for Dummies":
About engine braking - the principles, and how it applies to Cummins / Rams.
EGR - again, the how's and why's. Best maintenance practices?
The regen cycle - how it works, and how to tell when the truck initiates a cycle.
About variable geometry turbines: how they work, and any best practices to keep them healthy.
This is my first diesel vehicle, a '18 Ram 3500 dually, and I learn something new about it almost every day. It sure aint' no gasser.
Another great video. Thank you sir.
I changed mine out on my 2018 Ram with a Mishimoto version. I had to replace about 1.5qts of ATF fluid when all the dust settled.
The temps are much lower on the instrument cluster now. I average about 130-140F pulling my 17,000lb 5th wheel through Idaho. The highest I have seen is 180F and that was on a very steep and slow dirt road, that temperature came down quickly when I put the truck in 4LO though.
This is a little modification that I would do again.
I just put in an ATS Thermal Bypass Valve Delete a few weeks ago on my '16 3500 with the Aisin trans. It was about $105 on Amazon. Easy swap and now the trans runs a lot cooler. Cooler is always better.
I put the ats on my 17 6.4 with the 66rfe trans, temps were up in the 160 to 170 range after install 130 to 150 range now .
Did the same on my 2013 Ram .... Defiantly helped cool down my transmission also ... especially pulling any heavy loads.
How to find in amazon? Part name please
Thanks, Myron called the part other than “this little gadget here”
Good to see you again.. and Hello from Ascension Parish.
Great Content. Thankyou!
Thanks for the info
100 percent agree! Went with the ATS retro fit that dropped my transmission temp 30 degrees.
I'm a big fan of the PPE TBV delete as it has a Neodymium magnet to collect any ferrous trash the TC is dropping. I was finally able to find one for my '22 2500 since the 19+ ones have been low on stock and I'll be checking that magnet every time I service the transmission just to keep an eye on things. Once we get past the latest RFE recall (waiting to see what the issue/fix is from FCA) I'll also be installing the PPE flat bottom pan, their extended spin on filter w/metal nipple, and the ATS case brace. If you could do a PI Curve relearn (only applies to '19+) without WiTech I'd also be putting a RevMax Billet VB in it, but that'll have to wait. Most of the transmission guys I know say there's 3 things that kill RFE's in stock/non abusive applications - 1.) Heat and fluid cleanliness, keeping them regularly maintained and temps in check goes along way to longevity 2.) The case is weak and can flex. If you regularly tow heavy, put it under alot of load, etc the case can crack on the topside. This one isn't as common, but it can happen. 3.) The valve bodies are subpar and known to flex. Some guys I know have the thought process that bracing the case/stiffer pan early on can help, but a better VB is a better cure/fix. They develop a lot of cross leaks, the accumulator pistons don't hold pressure well, and some of the valves are known to wear/leak. I usually keep my trucks for 8-12 years (this one will be kept for a good long while with rates the way they are) so I like to do what I can within reason to fix deficiencies when I do my 1st round of servicing.
Thank you Mr Marion 🙏🙏🙏
I did the rev max delete . They are all the same, just an aluminum block. Cheap insurance nevause the factory one can fail at any time.
Heads up when your remove the lines from the cooler quiet a bit will drain, be prepared. And then you are best off filling it with oil, starting it into all the gears and shutting off and checking again. Took me a couple weeks to get it right on after my change
Good info thank you
I lost half a quart. Helps to do it cold.
I still have the bypass installed on my truck. But…
I would think you might want to keep it if you live in Wyoming, but if I lived were you do, I would remove it.
Agree
I live in Wyoming and deleted mine. Trans still warms up plenty quick even at below zero
This was the first modification I performed on my 2017 - with 500 miles on the OD - I swapped the OEM Junk with a ATS thermal by-pass delete block - my trans temps never get over 175*F even while towing.
This might be life saver for my Durango because I was thinkin about a second trans cooler
2001 dodge ram 2500 cummins transmission overheating on automatic transmission??? Help
I forgot to add that I bought the aftermarket transmission pan with the drain plug and what a difference it makes when changing the fluid and filter. A Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family also.
Can I put ATS Thermal bypass to my Ecosport Ford 2017?
Wonder if I can add that to my 17 Durango..NYC traffic! Trans temp stays at 203*but would go up 210…the truck feels more powerful when it’s between 175 - 190
Yes, look for after market one
Can i just plug the two pipe together or i will need a adapter
I have a GMC yukon 2011, I can't find out the problem that why the transmission is heating up even though my transmission has been overhauled, but it's still heating up.
any suggestions?
When you swap out your bypass have you looked at Mishimoto? They have one that you can leave the valve in (it opens sooner and has better flow) or you can take out the valve. I can't wait for your transmission service video.
Just a thought, it popped up demanding my attention. With this valve being not terribly essential. would it help anthing to engineer up a replacement item that would route the fluid along its normal path and add a filter to clear up the crap clutter? It does not look like there is a surplus of real estate to use a cheap fram or other from the engine oil filter shelf? Just a thought.
There's after market ones that are inexpensive and do what you mentioned. www.atsdiesel.com/ats-68rfe-as69rc-thermal-bypass-valve-up-grade-w-billet-filter-coupler-2013-2018-ram-6-7l-cummins
Why don’t they sell that line going from transmission to bypass by itself?
Yea agree. Maybe a little cheaper this way? Don't know, ha.
I replaced mine with the ATS block at 9000 miles, also added their deep transmission pan and their transmission case brace. Trans runs between 140-145.
Thanks I’ll probably put the a ATS also
Semper Fi
@@MarionBlair Semper Fi brother!
What’s the name of the part?
I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500 and I’m having problems with my transmission heating up I noticed my transmission fluid wasn’t coming up to my transmission cooler could this solve my problem or any advice on what I should do to solve my issue
It will bypass till a set temp so that may be normal. If your transmission is not getting hotter than normal, it's probably not an issue.
Good old fashion common sense strikes again. Less is More, thanks Marion.
I CA'NT REACH OPERATING TEMP. ON CHEVY SONIC SPEC. 185F-203F // I CAN ONLY REACH 176F HIGHEST. I ALSO DROVE 94 MILES - TEMP. WAS 135F AFTER 15 MIN. WAIT BEFORE CHECKING TEMP. WHAT'S CAUSING THIS???
Engine temp ok at 175
I WAS FINALLY ABLE TO REACH OPERATING TEMP. BY AGGRESSIVELY FLOORING EACH GEAR (P,R N,D 1ST) WITH FOOT ON BRAKE
What’s the name of the part?
transmission cooler bypass
trans. temp. sensor.
I would by pass and throw in the trash
Mine is leaking from the return cooler side front and back do i need to replace the whole box or just orings? Would this also cause my car to overheat with ac on ? Ty in advance 🫶