Set Timing for Engine Start
Vložit
- čas přidán 24. 04. 2020
- Set correct timing for engine start! In this video I explain how to start your engine after removing the distributor and spinning the motor. This video is for those who have lost track of the engine rotation and didn't mark the distributor when removing it. I use a Ford 302 in this demonstration, but this is applicable to all engines. I show you: How to find TDC on the compression stroke at the #1 cylinder and how to point the rotor to the #1 piston on the distributor cap.
In-Depth find TDC video guide: - Jak na to + styl
Thanks I appreciate it I changed my distributor and I forgot to put the engine on tdc 0 . But your video helped me to drive again my 5.0
Awesome, love to hear it! Thanks for the comment and glad this helped!
These videos are helping me a ton with my 95 Bronco with the 302.
Awesome, glad to hear that! 👍
Today was the day I installed the distributor in and I had to find TDC and your videos definitely helped. That POP of the shop towel in cylinder 1 was So satisfyingly funny! 🍾😂
Haha, right! Glad this helped 👍👍👍
Thankyou for the awsome video. Im am on my first ever ford v8 rebuild and this is exactly what i needed to know!
Fantastic! Glad this is of some help. Welcome to the Ford family 👍👍👍
Great info! I had to take off the ignition module (on the side of the dizzy) on my 89 F250 7.5L. It seems so easy, I’ll be trying to do this and start her up tomorrow. She ran a few days ago before I took out the dizzy. First time is 12 years!!
Hey there. Yes, this should work for you. Update this thread with the results if you feel so inclined. Best of luck!
@@FastFixCZcams Worked like a charm after I got her to 10 degrees BTDC. Cranked up instantly, adjusted the dizzy slightly with it running. She’s running great!!
@@Mc88Flyy 8wire I
My stubborn ass waited 3 days. Watched this and in 10 minutes got it. Thanks man
Haha, I’ve been there a time or two. Glad this helped! Appreciate the comment 👍
I don't care for mustangs but this is a very helpful video, i see exactly where i made my mistake and you taught me a new trick too
Glad this helped despite your Mustang feelings 👍 appreciate the comment.
I was always taught you should set the timing mark to about 10 to 15 degrees BTDC and then set your distributor to #1 so that on first start your timing is a few degrees before top dead center which is where your always going to run it anyway. This is especially important on a newly built engine with a flat tappet camshaft as you NEVER want it to idle during the first start and 20 to 30 minute break in, not even idling long enough to use a timing light, and you never want to be sitting there cranking it several times during the first start because it doesn't want to start properly at true 0 degrees top dead center timing, hence setting it a few degrees BTDC.
Good advice!
Thank you for commenting back I understand what you’ve done
Sure, no prob!
Thanks to you got my dads foxbody running! This and then tdc video!
Awesome! Love to hear that 👍👍👍
This is gonna help with my low compression 350 that's getting a really dialed in tune. locked distributor, small carb. it won't make a ton of power, but it should jump if you punch it.
Sounds good!
Very helpful. Thanks man
You’re welcome! Appreciate the comment 👍
Thank you so much for showing how to do this
You bet!
Ive done this many times but i enjoy watching others doing it, you can always learn new things, when i was young (a long time ago,lol) i use to think that when people said "point rotor to number one cylinder" they actually meant to point the rotor to number one cylinder literally when in reality is the number 1 on the cap, ha ha ha ha, needles to say that didn't work very well.
If i may add,finding number one on a stock Mustang distributor is as easy as lining it up with that black sensor inside your distributor, you line it up with that and your good to go, also when you get ready to "stab ' it turn your rotor to the left about a inch,once it goes in and the teeth mesh it will move it to the right, 9 times out of ten this will get you right in front of the black sensor and your good to go,putting it in on number 1 and hoping it goes in straight does happen but very rarely, most of the time it will move to your right hence that one inch to the left.
Hello! Hahaha, well we’ve all made those assumptions when we were green. Hell, I’m still learning all the time and I learned from your comment! Thanks for that tip. I’ll be using it in the spring when the new motor goes in! Have a great one 👍
@@FastFixCZcams I actually ran into a funny issue tonight starting a brand new 302, had it all primed and ready to go, stabbed the distributor and it wouldn't start,well we had been working all day on it and i was pretty tired, started checking everything carefully and i had the distributor off by a hair, pulled it back out, tried it again and man it started like a champ.
Sounded great, strong like a new motor should but i had started it with the belt off, just wanted to make sure it was gonna run,so we turned it off, gonna slap the belt and take her out for a spin, hit the key and it never started again no matter what, has fuel and spark, lol, have no clue whats going on, sure hope its not something internally but those 20 seconds it ran it never made any weird noises, none at all, just pure motor symphony.
Hey there! Hmm, yes that is odd. I’d say it’s likely an ignition issue if you’ve got the timing right. Doubt any major internal problems. Yes, the sound from a new start up always gets the blood flowing. Pure awesome.
@@FastFixCZcams Hey, thanks for the reply, yeah i just tried it a minute ago, its definitely timing,i have it stabbed right its just not in the sweet spot yet,lol,keep on trying is all i can do,that new engine is decimating that battery,lol,nothing like a new tight engine to put strain on everything.
A question please; I have a 94-95 302, PP graded balancer (0-20 degrees), I read that the rotor arm has to be clocked in a way to touch the No.1 cap contactor at 10 degrees BTC and not at 0 degrees like you did. Is this correct?
Hello. In order to advance timing, it would have to be that way. I start at zero just to make sure it’ll run. However, it should start and run better with 10 degrees of advance. I start at zero and make my way to 13/14 degrees depending. Hope this answered your question.
Great videos. Was wondering if you can make a video on the egr system. I am in th process of puting on a trickflow top end kit. I am deleteing smog pump and was wondering if i should delete the egr valve also. And if so the process to do so. Thanks for the great videos
Great suggestion! There are videos out there that cover the process you suggested. Zero performance or negligible performance gains with egr delete, so only do that if you're going total off-road or for aesthetic reasons. How'd the TrickFlow top end kit work out?
you should delete out the egr system. they cause more engine damge then anything else. just my opinion.
you can delete out the egr simple trick and it will be legal emissions test pass. simply remove the egr. they have a egr delete kit where the air will go from that area over the the fresh air intake. simple easy egr delete kit. they make them for the 6.0l engines and all other engines with egr valve.watch the video on it. and there you will have the info on it and the site to order the egr delte kit.
great video thanks
You are welcome!
Thanks this really helped me a lot you have no idea
Hello! Glad to hear that! Thanks for the comment 👍
I do have one question should the oil pump shaft have any play and if it does should I replace it
Hello. Sorry about the late reply. There is usually a little play with the shaft. Get a good visual inspection and make sure it’s not warped / bent. If all is well, install 👍
Would this work if my engine is rough idling , misfiring and shaking? I changed my distributor cap and rotor also spark plugs and wires . Wanna try this before I change my fuel injectors and distributor thanks
No, this won’t help you. It sounds like you’ve got timing, spark, or fuel issues.
Make sure your plug wires are routed correctly. You’d be surprised how often a mis-connected plug wire is to blame.
This video was meant for those just trying to get their engine started.
good vids brother, i used to have a 1988 stang 5.0 body style just like yours . mine was a rare make 4 cylinder with turbo. rear wheel drive. automatic 5 speed but i put a older 4 speed auto tranny in it. had more torque power.
before that i had a 68 1/2 mach1 midnight matelic blue. Boss351 under the hood holly 4 barrel 750cfm double pumper/ 3/4 race cam double roller lifters. 4 speed on the floor with headers duel Flow Master exhoust ststem. black leather interior.
Damn man, those sound like awesome rides! I think it’d be super cool to have the 4-cylinder turbo and make it scream. Maybe a future project some day. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Blew away my brother's Camero he had 350 with cross fire fuel injection . I raced him from Fairfield conn to 9W Newburgh NY . Beat out runned his V8 crossfire camero he could not believe it. to this day he still is confused. 😂
Ya would make a great racer also good on fuel not bad with turbo.i was happy with it when I bought it off a jaguar dealership. Bought it for 5k. Only 1 owner.
And only had less then 60k miles on it at the time
There are ways to do it,fast turn to increase rpms,the right way,ck carb,start at plugs,pick the amount of gap reqd,set every plug,wires,cap and rotar,then set timing 1.5 degree's extra,and there ya go
👆👍
I just did a rebuild on my carburetor for my 84 Bronco ii. Now it won’t start, I have spark, it’s getting fuel, it cranks and cranks and won’t start, the 2-3 times it did start it wouldn’t hold idle unless foot was on gas. Could it be timing, should I try this step you showed?
Hello. Yes, definitely sounds like timing. Find the compression stroke then set TDC. Feel free to Let me know how it goes.
Or firing order on cap wrong
Seen many peep make that mistake have 2 or 6 wires crossed on the. Plugin of the distributor cap.
Or distributor not set in place right could be a tooth or few off set.
And make sure you follow your engine block firing order. To the cap. Look up your year engine and it will show you
I'm having a little problem on my '95 to a '94 OMC Cobra boat motor. What's the timing? Mark in the rotor where it should be at for the fire at the first try like you did in your video please get back to me thanks it's a 351 Windsor
It's not a vacuum advance. It's one just like yours in the video distributor
Hello. Happy to reply! Please give me a few more details. Have you gotten the motor to fire? If so, increase the timing to about the 13 degree mark, but do it incrementally. You want to get to the point where the motor doesn’t knock based on the octane of the fuel you’re using. It may be beyond the 13 degrees mark or a bit below. Not every motor is the same, but they tend to be very close in range. Then make sure to use the same octane gas for the future.
@@FastFixCZcams It was knocking and I shut it down quick so I redid it and I don't hear the knocking no more
@@chriscorter5035 perfect! Seems like you got it sorted. Thanks for the question and reply 👍
How would you go about vaccum advance distributers?
By switching to EFI 😁
I have a 77 mustang ii 2.8 liter. Got it running but idles high. Any suggestions?
Hello. Sorry, I don’t have much experience on those engines. I would say to make sure the timing isn’t too high as that can raise the idle sometimes. I assume that’s carbureted. There should be a screw adjust for the idle I believe. Sorry I can’t be of much help, but thanks for the question.
check your firing order on the engine and on the cap. if 302 or other . depending on the year 302 engine or 351 .firing order changed in 93 and up. so be aware of that. in this video above Fast Fix is showing a HO 302 timing setup. firing oder .
if your engine is a older type then do not follow the firing order in this video above. go to vintage website for vintage 68 - 82 302 351w firing oder. as the 302 and the 351 windsor are both the windsor engine family.
Tried this on my 86 f150 and tried to start it now it wont start and will back fire really bad any help
Hello. It sounds like you’ve found TDC on the exhaust stroke. Make sure you’re on the compression stroke then try again. Also, make sure the spark plugs are in the correct order. That happens more times than not. Feel free to update the thread if you’re still haven’t issues. 👍
It seemed like the rotor was pointing toward the driver side head. I am confused. Is it supposed to be there or pointing directly at the number 1 piston
Hello. You saw correctly. However, The rotor needs to be set at the #1 point on the distributor which leads to the #1 cylinder. So, the rotor won’t physically point to the #1 cylinder rather in which ever direction the #1 point is located. Hope this makes sense.
Awesome thanks! Also was the timing on the harmonic balancer set at 0 degrees when fired or just before? I've been told to set it at 12 degrees BTDC
You just made it simple
Hello! Yes, that is the goal of the channel, simple. Thanks for commenting, I appreciate it 👍👍👍
So I'm timing a 1990 ford f150 efi
I have atc and btc 10 0 10 do I set it at 0 also
Hello. I’m not understanding your question. What are you setting to zero?
yes set at 0 you have a computer in the pickup. then set at 0.
My car turns on but stumbles and dies right after unless I keep peddling the gas,I recently had a bad battery and I would have to jump start it everytime,my question is can a bad battery throw off the timing??
Hello. Short answer is no, a bad battery has nothing to do with engine timing. You likely have a fuel starvation issue somewhere from the sound of it or the motor isn’t getting air which happens when mice make a nest in the air intake. Best of luck!
check your fuel filters and if not fix after changing them then you have a fuel pump going bad.change it asap.
So when the paper towel comes shooting out the 1# piston that’s when you mark the time?
Hello. Correct! When the paper pops out, the piston is heading to TDC on the power stroke. When this happens, look at your balancer and continue to spin the engine until your timing marker hits zero 👍
Do you think it will work on a 351 Windsor
Absolutely 👍
Should this work for a 351w?
Yep!
I’m currently working on a 1987 f150 Jasper 302 and was told to put it at 10 degrees on the balancer. Guessing I was told wrong.
Hello. 10 degrees is a factory setting and not wrong. It’s just “safe.” That way you can run low octane fuel and be perfectly fine. Generally, 13 degrees of timing is also “safe” and what I run in this car mostly on 91 octane, but I’ll use 93 if I can find it.
@@FastFixCZcams Thanks for the information man
Hey just wondering I have a 1986 Mustang and it’s pretty much stock I see you didn’t take out the spout it’s a small little computer chip Does that even matter
Mike Marks hello. You’re correct. I didn’t take out the spout for the initial engine start. I wanted to make sure it ran first then remove the spout to advance timing to 13 degrees. Good eye! But to answer your question, yes it does matter. The spout should be disconnected when setting initial timing. Once set, install the spout and you’re good to go. The spout controls engine advanced timing.
Just did my hci I followed your method but rather than 0degrees, I tried it at 12degrees. She just turned over, no start, she tried, no avail. Tomorrow I try it at 0. She sounded broken trying at 12. lol
I always start at zero then work my way up. It may not run the best at first, but it’s okay. Can progressively tune up and that’s satisfying. Thanks for commenting
@@FastFixCZcams the next morning, did it from zero, she started. Mind you, I just did the hci, so I had a little bit of work to do after but she’s run nice soooo nice. Thanks for the video, although I also ignored the 89 mustang shop manual because I really wanted to pay myself on the back. The old adage rings true, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Again thanks, and thanks for the reply. Two thumbs up to you. Toronto, ON CANADA considers you friend. Thanks
@@reachadcreadordasilva3471 hey, fantastic! Glad this video could be of help. I appreciate the Canadian connection! You’re a friend of the States (for whatever that’s worth 🤣) as well! Cheers!
What’s up with the crazy hair 😂
Crazy is as crazy does! I gotta let the people know somehow! Take care and thanks for commenting👍👍👍
I had a mechanic put a crankshaft pulley on my car. He claims to have changed the crankshaft position sensor as well. [Can't be 100 percent sure] I got my car back with no spark. He claims the car was running when he changed the pulley and belts and suddenly lost spark. Car was running perfectly before he worked on it. I towed it home and changed the distributor she fired but fired very very rough and won't stay started. If I give it gas it'll stay fired but will smoke very bad out the tailpipe. I'm thinking the engine is out of timing maybe he put the crankpulley and or crankshaft position sensor on out of alignment. Is this possible or maybe another issue. The vehicle was perfect before that loser mechanic touched my vehicle. Please help someone
Hello. Yeah, pretty weird that it no longer starts after he replaced a part that’s absolutely necessary for the engine to run. He sounds full of it.
I’d start by making sure the sensor is good. Because that is one of the parts that was changed, I’d start there. What kind of car was this done on? Definitely sounds like a timing problem. It has spark, just being delivered at the wrong time.
Ya he blew smoke up your a zz, he not know but that sensor he bought was probably a cheap cost one and ended up being defective sensor. Always get the oem parts when it comes down to the timing sensors crank and cam sensors or either that or it jumped time.just numb the key bump a few times and it will come back around in time and fire. If so then replace the timing chain get the kit comes with new chain and gears if it's a timing belt then same just set it back in time before placing the belt on. only perform that replacement of the oem cam sensor and oem crank sensor replacement not fix it.
U good 🫵🏻
Thank you! Appreciate the comments 👍👍👍
👍🫵🏻
Right back at ya! 👍🫵
use a whistle instead of paper
Ha, yep that would work too.
@@FastFixCZcams But without the risk of it getting into the cylinder as you turn the engine...
You said point rotar toward cylinder 1 and then pointed it toward cylinder 8 the hell?
No I didn’t. The car started. If pointed at cylinder 8 it would not have fired.
Cylinder 1 on the cap, not the piston. The rotor should be to the left of the right lower intake bolt. @fastfixyoutube done it exactly the way it should be done