that colar is rubbing against the bearing inner ring - which is good. When you tighten the wheel nut you actually lock driveshaft and bearings in position they ment to be. That colar there is designed on purpose - theres absolutely no need of shaving it off, by doing that you will get extra driveshaft (i mean axle shaft) play!
Sand the head of those screws down a little hopefully it won't rub and maybe you can add small amount of grease in that track for further friction prevention and or find replacement screws flathead style maybe off an old pair of sunglasses.
I just wanted to point out on the first ones you have 2 dots, meaning it touched probably as you were installing them, but not rubbing as it was running. That would show the circle like on the second ones.
I thought the exact same. The dots are from fitting the weights while the paint was still drying hence the dot dot marks rather than drag marks the whole way around. However, thanks for looking out for us with the video. 👍🏾
Not to mention the thickness of paint resting on the screw head will be thicker than simple ink. For models of these sizes, just the thickness of paint can taller than the thickness of a wheel washer.
They should touch the inner bearing race though. The problem arises if the machined face on those nubs/standoffs is bigger than the inner race. That means it is going to contact the shield. That and usually the hubs are overall too thick making your wheel nuts sit farther out on threads this causing the nylon in the wheel nuts to not engage the threads
3 years later and I just got the deadbolt, I don't suppose you can share the link of the brass ones that don't rub against the bearing. Thanks for the very important information.
Great tip. I just added some hex weights to my C10, which are pretty heavy . when I ran my truck at low throttle, it kind of bends sideways ( I think it's called binding?) and doesn't even move forward. what can be the possible Causes? Over tightening? Is the weight too much? I know it's not much to go off but still just taking a shot here.
i'm no professional but here's what i can say based off my own model... i wouldn't say it's a weight issue only because i've added over 5 ounces in wheel weight on stock everything and mine runs fine, i wouldn't say it's overitighteninf either because i tighten mine down pretty good to be honest. i'm assuming you have a binding issue, maybe try another brand or doing some minor mods to make it work better. sorry i couldn't really help, but i can concur it's not either issue you mentioned and hopefully that helps 💪🏼
The Hot Racing 4mm extended axle kit comes with some lower profile screws for the back axle. I'm sure you can get those screws separately if you look. it is an M1.4 counter sunk not sure of the length but that should be easy to measure off the old screw
I found this out the hard way too... But I removed those screws from the rear wheel assembly as they only seemed to provide some spacing function. Or will I now see the bearing fall out of the rear wheel hub?
Do you have a link to the parts you used for the battery connector to the esc? That is a really good idea. And I am a huge noob to the rc world, no idea what connectors or anything. Cheers.
Thanks man. I'm using the smaller brass hex wheel extenders and I was wondering why I couldn't tighten the fronts down as much as the rears without the front wheels binding up. I ended up not tightening beyond where the wheel would roll freely and use some loctite to keep it there. Regarding the plug, can you even plug those in wrong? Thought they would only connect a certain way. Regardless I just make sure the red is on red.
Great tip on the wheel inserts
And the battery jumper cable.
Makes so much sense
That my friend is very good information. 👍
that colar is rubbing against the bearing inner ring - which is good. When you tighten the wheel nut you actually lock driveshaft and bearings in position they ment to be. That colar there is designed on purpose - theres absolutely no need of shaving it off, by doing that you will get extra driveshaft (i mean axle shaft) play!
Not in the rear, it rubs on the screws holding the bearing in place, the front and rear axel are different.
@@Scrimjer yes they are different
The problem is, you forgot to put the washer behind the pin😊
I was about to purchase cheap brass wheels but glad to watch your video first. Thanks!
I made longer pins to keep them from riding the bearing
Thats wheely interesting, 🤣 good info, just having fun. ✌
Great info especially for the new guys to these awesome little trucks
Oh hey there haha
Sand the head of those screws down a little hopefully it won't rub and maybe you can add small amount of grease in that track for further friction prevention and or find replacement screws flathead style maybe off an old pair of sunglasses.
I just wanted to point out on the first ones you have 2 dots, meaning it touched probably as you were installing them, but not rubbing as it was running. That would show the circle like on the second ones.
Results may vary, but yes I'm looking for the lines of rubbed paint yes
I thought the exact same. The dots are from fitting the weights while the paint was still drying hence the dot dot marks rather than drag marks the whole way around. However, thanks for looking out for us with the video. 👍🏾
Not to mention the thickness of paint resting on the screw head will be thicker than simple ink. For models of these sizes, just the thickness of paint can taller than the thickness of a wheel washer.
They should touch the inner bearing race though. The problem arises if the machined face on those nubs/standoffs is bigger than the inner race. That means it is going to contact the shield. That and usually the hubs are overall too thick making your wheel nuts sit farther out on threads this causing the nylon in the wheel nuts to not engage the threads
I'm more concerned about the screws in the back axel
Exactly. 👍🏼
Your wheel weight didn’t come with brass ring washers ?
🖐️🤠 Thank you
Great info & tips!
Much appreciated 🤝
Cheers from 🇬🇧
3 years later and I just got the deadbolt, I don't suppose you can share the link of the brass ones that don't rub against the bearing. Thanks for the very important information.
I think I got them on Amazon just look at the pictures and you will see shorter flanges
Good info!
Thanks man. 🍻
Its the same with the 6mm weights i just drilled some 2.5mm shims to 3mm (hard to find a 3x5mm shim).
Great tip. I just added some hex weights to my C10, which are pretty heavy . when I ran my truck at low throttle, it kind of bends sideways ( I think it's called binding?) and doesn't even move forward. what can be the possible Causes? Over tightening? Is the weight too much? I know it's not much to go off but still just taking a shot here.
i'm no professional but here's what i can say based off my own model... i wouldn't say it's a weight issue only because i've added over 5 ounces in wheel weight on stock everything and mine runs fine, i wouldn't say it's overitighteninf either because i tighten mine down pretty good to be honest. i'm assuming you have a binding issue, maybe try another brand or doing some minor mods to make it work better. sorry i couldn't really help, but i can concur it's not either issue you mentioned and hopefully that helps 💪🏼
hey i’m using like brass stand-off as spacers is that bad?
Nice .
It’s supposed to rub it takes the axle play out of your
The Hot Racing 4mm extended axle kit comes with some lower profile screws for the back axle. I'm sure you can get those screws separately if you look. it is an M1.4 counter sunk not sure of the length but that should be easy to measure off the old screw
I will look into it
I found this out the hard way too... But I removed those screws from the rear wheel assembly as they only seemed to provide some spacing function. Or will I now see the bearing fall out of the rear wheel hub?
I think they are there to hold the bearing back.
Do you have a link to the parts you used for the battery connector to the esc? That is a really good idea. And I am a huge noob to the rc world, no idea what connectors or anything.
Cheers.
I don't have a link, I just looked up the proper plug I'm not sure of the name then solder the proper male female cable
Put a shim between the wheel bearing
Thanks man. I'm using the smaller brass hex wheel extenders and I was wondering why I couldn't tighten the fronts down as much as the rears without the front wheels binding up. I ended up not tightening beyond where the wheel would roll freely and use some loctite to keep it there.
Regarding the plug, can you even plug those in wrong? Thought they would only connect a certain way. Regardless I just make sure the red is on red.
You can jam the wrong way