How to Drywall Over Beam Hangers!
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- čas přidán 14. 03. 2024
- Ever wondered what the solution is? Well, here it is!!!
Here's some tools you might need:
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It’s weird, I followed this channel years ago when I was finishing my basement and wanted some simple drywall tips, and I have no need for any of this anymore and yet I still find myself compulsively watching these videos. Something about just watching somebody who is really good at their job go about their business makes for oddly compelling content…
Yup!!!
Same. I came here for tips on skim-coating a room like 5 years ago. Finished that project 4 years ago. Still watching the videos though because Ben is so fun to watch.
Thank you!!!!
Me too! I've picked up hints I hope to never use!!!
Great teacher
The part about dealing with the mud kicking off early is why CZcams is so much better than the old school shows where everything went perfect.
The all purpose mud has a chemical calcium in it that acts as additional catalyst for your hotmud which caused it to set faster.
That's what I thought. I've noticed mixing hot mud and premixed usually makes the job more difficult
I mix hot mud and plus 3 all the time, never had it kick off faster. Quite the opposite. There is no catalysts in all purpose. The only calcium in it is limestone (and possibly the mica if it’s a calcium mica). Limestone and clay are what all mud and boards are made from. Hot mud has plaster in it which is what sets. Alum is a catalyst for that, but there’s no alum in any compound that I know of.
When you said you had a trick for adhesion, I was waiting for the glue, lol. Touché, sir, touché.
Awesome subject. I really like how you have never stopped developing the channel over the years and how you still always find something new and interesting to show. I have been a subscriber from the early days. Cheers! 😻
Thank you!!!
I mix my hot mud in ice cream buckets... smaller quantities and easy to clean out.
My wife and I were watching this and the trick to get the set mud out was an eye opener, we have been doing it the hard way.
Hey brother I’m from alberta your neighbor , I’m originally a electrician by trade now a engineer and when I went to finish my home I found your videos and when I had a quote 1/2 way through project both contractors told me to get the original contractor to do the workload because they would not be able to match the quality …………. I did all the work myself after your videos you also got me back into skateboarding after 15 years of my board being hung up went on within 3 years from 4 foot bowl to 6 foot to 8 foot and now killing 10 foot drop ins , was always my dreams took a lot of practice but was one of the best feelings in the world when I finally nailed my drop in ……. I also broke 2 ribs along the way but it didn’t slow me down
You should do a mock up and see if that new stuff is better than traditional stuff. I think that would be a solid video.
I'm a 25 year mason. I have recently gotten into home remodeling, and you are my go to drywall channel.
Just thought I'd take time out and say thank you.
I honestly do not sub to many channels.....but I'm going to yours.
It's not fair that I use all your knowledge and not support you in some way. Again....thank you sir for all your help.
I've been able to fill a spot like that with a saggy mud by putting some Fibafuse inset a little into the filler pass. So by the time im done, there are two layers of Fibafuse. The first layer acts like rebar in concrete.
only thing i would have done different is coated the metal with some multipurpose primer from tec. Also gardz by zinnsser, just something to help give that mud a nice tight bond and also prevent the moisture in the mud from causing any rust.
That chaotic bolt pattern on the hanger is insane lol.
It prevents the fasteners from splitting the grain.
Lots of R&D went into that crazy pattern!
@@YogiTheBearMan Redbulls and drugs maybe.
@@akshonclipStill pretty random though
‘Merica Mud.
Best known for apple pie and joint compound
And baseball ⚾️
I use hot mud for taping. Most of my jobs are repairs so I can use 20 or 45 minute. For larger taping jobs I will use 90 min. I am also a big fan of "Perfect 90" inside corner tape. It straightens out wavy inside corners and is super easy to apply. No moving or tearing.
Love that you 100% deliver on the title of this video!
Hey friend - thanks for the videos! I have this concrete ceiling that was plastered and painted poorly. Had some spare time on my hands so I watched your videos and then removed all the debris to the bare concrete, primed the ceiling, then skim coated it using your roller method to put the compound on the ceiling. Then I used the skim coating trowel for a nice finish I am happy with. Does not come to the same professional standard as yours, but for the first time ever doing this, I am happy. Thank you and if you are ever in the new west area, I'll buy you a beer!
FibaFuse is a great product and I used it during my remodel. If you end up touching the edges of the roll though, you will itch like no other. Touching the face of the roll doesn't seem to be a problem. If you are careful, you can complete the job and still avoid touching the edges. Just a heads up to anyone that tries it for the first time!
You mentioned that quick-mud being hard as a rock. I watched a guy one day use a piece of hardware cloth wrapped around a block of wood, which worked like really aggressive sandpaper and was rather quick. He just worked out the high spots then used traditional mud for the finish coat.
I've had that same problem with those off brands of hot mud. 90 minute turns into a rock at 20 minutes and your stuck with a brick in the bucket. USG has always been super consistent.
Hammer the sides of the bucket with a rubber mallet. I use that method for dry wall compound and even concrete. I let it dry and hit with a rubber mallet
Strongly recommend a bucket scraping trowel. Changed everything for me
Your videos are awesome, you've def. helped me to not just give me the confidence in the home jobs I do, but I've learned a lot about what and how to do it as well, very much appreciated. Keep up the great work!
Bucket scoop is always nice for getting 95% of excess mud out of a bucket
I love fiber fuse for bigger areas and it cones in 75' roles. I've also used the 36" sheets for skimming over old plaster walls and ceilings. I have to order it on line, Canadian distributor, because the big hardware stores don't sell it.
100% AGREE. I've used paper and mesh, but fiber fuse is thinner, stronger and easier to use. The hand itch is the only disadvantage. I couldn't find it a HD and had to order online.
You don't need to order online. Every drywall supplier that isnt a box store has it locally in Canada. There was a huge shortage of it the passed 2 years.
I used to work on those old spiderweb cracked plaster walls decades ago. Used rolls of mesh tape for that, it’s all we had. Can’t remember if they were 24” or 36” though.
Hot mud mixed with air dry mud?
I like the hole drilling option, that was clever!
Always learn something from your techniques and products used. I wondered if the metal needed some primer but I guess not. Thank you!
As a DIY'er, I let a bucket of self leveling concrete compound set up. I figured the bucket was trash, but two days later I slammed it upside down on the floor and the slug of compound came right out cleanly.
I just had a bucket of 45 minute go off on me yesterday! Ticked me off! But i was stubborn and used that crap until it was rock hard. And thats how i lost the bucket, too.
I had a similar experience. Interestingly, the areas where I was using it when it was going off cracked on me
Have you tried putting some 45 minute hot mud behind the part of the drywall you shaved off? If you mixed it thin enough it should squeeze out without cracking the drywall yet support it when it sets. That way you don't run the risk of cracking it when taping the corners. I've not done it, but it might be worth considering.
That could work. It would be super annoying though to take out all the taping tools while hanging.
Plonk o ppl 00o
I've had to repair drywall that's been hung over lath and plaster walls that have had the plaster knocked off but the lath left up, and I do this to stabilize the lath behind the repair. Often times it's loose after being messed with 90 some odd years after it was hung.
@@vancouvercarpenterIs there such a thing as fibre-reinforced mud? Seems like adding some micro-fibres would add some inherint strength to the mud. There are similar things with fibre reinforced concrete, but it is still a new-ish are of concrete design.
I don't think it would be the right tool for this application, but just curious.
That’s how I do it
They make a small paddle for a drill,that you can mix quick set in a pan. I only use 20 minute mud because I can get rid of that amount without much waste. Haven’t used 45 or 90 in years.
i buy egg beaters for handheld mixers every time i see them in goodwill, they are basically free and work super amazing.
@@joshuawhite9725 I might try that. After awhile the paddles beat up the side of my metal pan.
7:29, I love that you used the bit that you tore the tip from. LOL makes it feel real.
As always, great work mate😎 A couple weeks ago we had to do something very similar on a remodel. My employee turned me onto Clark Dietrich perma patches and they worked really well.
I always learn a lot from this channel. Thanks
I learned of Fibafuse watching your videos. Have been using the 6” to fix cracks in plaster since, it’s a great product!
If you're going to shave out the back side of the drywall, I'd mix up some hot mud and slap it on the back of the shaved out portion. That'll kill 2 birds with one stone, it helps fill any voids to help decrease failure chances down the road, and also just helps with adhesion for the piece in general
This is perfectly timed as I'm working on a weird patch over a sewer pipe in my wall. I've been kind of making it up as I go, but this might solve some of my problems!
Another good material to prefill over those connectors is Poly Underlay, or any cementitious floor leveller. Dries rock hard and super fast.
Masterfully done! Greetings from 'the states' : )
awesome video, this was a nice trick to throw in my bag of tricks. thank you.
I just use hot mud straight up for my 1st and 2nd coats 20 for deep 1st coats/small jobs, 45 or 90 for the bigger jobs when i need more quantity at once.. 3rd coat is easy sand low dust lightweight stuff. I had to replace my 10" knife as the edges had worn down causing it to scoop out the bud from the middle and leave a dip. Never thought about it until i notice the wall seam was still low after 3rd coat.
It setup because it wasn’t in a blue bucket! 😂 appreciate the videos I’ve learned allot!
Feels like a learning experience for the both of us🍺 awesome video
Yeah had a bag of 40 minute kick in 10 once it was definitely old and had been in a leaky garage for some time. I like the fiba fuse too i did a ceiling with a bit of it, fully expect to have to do some repairs there, we'll see how their claims of strength hold up in an air BnB.
Thanks for the nuggets 👍
I had this problem not with a beam hanger but with some duct work that stuck out too much. I was also left with only 1/4" thickness. I used Durabond to embed some 6" FibaFuse at the backside area where I "routed out" the drywall core. It really seemed to strengthen it.
I would approach the same way you did, nice job!
Wow glad you didn’t get hurt more dropping the knife. Very cool tricks to cover some of the ridiculousness left by some contractors
i've wondered the same thing for structural beams for old stick-framed houses
Thank you for the video.
Dude. I hope you healed well. I use minimal expanding foam as a backer. Works well in an industrial setting where they put drywall in production areas.
Just found your channel love your videos you are a pleasure to hear and watch.... Very hard worker and very skilled ... Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the world.... Mike
Thanks Mike!
I never had leftover easysand/dirabond cuz I planned ahead and put up cornerbeads before and with the leftover I just filled in some beads
Another awesome video. Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us.Still subscribed!
It's funny that you posted this video because I'm working on my kids room in the basement and to strengthen the floor joists I put a metal beam that was cut down the webbing and in-bedded it into the joist but it sticks out a bit still and I decided to use a fare amount of shims to smooth out the transition. I'll send you pics if you like.
For anyone new to doing mudding the best thing to know is don't be perfect on the first application. The first application is for coverage, then knock down/sand imperfections then apply it perfect remering to put enough on to be able to sand it flat. After I figured that out it wasn't as intimidating.
5:11 yes that’s happened to me and it’s just the worst 😒. Love the video!!
Yup, that's almost every way I used to cover those. Think we used to use super wide fiberglass sheets (originally for stucco), or one guy was awesome at making wide sheets out of paper tape.
yep had that happen lots before with durabond for prefill your better to mix small amounts and then remix when needed
Yep happened a few times I keep a garden trowel with me now just to break the centre line and the it normally pops out.
Sweet nail job👌
Thanks. I did it myself :)
@@vancouvercarpenter I haven't nailed sheetrock in years. I remember the first time I nailed up a ceiling. Times have changed 💯
Yes. I had 1/3 of a bucket of 90-minute mud (brand new purchased bag) start setting up in ~60 minutes because the house was kept so warm by the homeowner (who is always cold because hypotension). I didn’t consider it when I brought the bucket inside and only got through half my work before the mud was toast. Getting it out is always frustrating
i just posted on this, but it seems like mine is setting even quicker (posting on female account)
Great video thanks I learned some new techniques! Going to try that fiber fuse on this one difficult ceiling seam I have where there's a 15° angle. The sheets didn't line up very nice so there's going to be a lot of hot mud going in to make things right. Sheetrock 45 to the rescue
Do you have No Coat flexible corner bead available where you are? That might be an option for you to try
I will check I have both home Depot and Lowe's I'm located in Canada. This would be for what you would call an inside corner. The ceiling starts off flat for two feetand then it slopes down 15° till it reaches the exterior wall. @@juzcallmeben
Yes, it's happened to me with 20 wait before. Pain in the ass getting out. I let it sit on water for a little bit and kept working the water into it to soften it up enough to remove it
You should get a bucket scoop, works magic on getting every little bit out of buckets
well done sir
I know you prefer paper tape, and watching your videos I've come to agree. I also know you've talked about how much you like using sheets of Fiba Fuse to strengthen bigger patches. Do you have any thoughts on using the 2" FibaFuse for taping?
I use Durabond 90 but in a pinch, if you don't have All Purpose and have only hot mud (45 or 20min) then add a good amount of wood glue to your mix. It'll help with the adhesion.
As always learned something.
You may have heard of it and I haven’t used it, but I remember seeing something called Bucketsaver, which is a silicone lining. For DIY it’s unnecessary, but for a pro it might have a place.
Hey Ben ~ wondering how it will stay attached to the steel underneath? My instincts tell be it will separate over time and crack around the parameter of the fibafuse. I think the best way to handle it is to switch to thicker drywall and fade it into the thinner drywall a.k.a. mudd framing, to which you are a master.
I used some leftover (3 years old) 20-min WesPac. It set up in 5 minutes. I tried adding dab of wood glue it became 3 min mud lol.
I carry buckets at all times. Replaceable at $5(US) or less. Saving a used bucket is no longer a goal. Thank you. Stay safe
We have fibreglass mesh in uk as standard and in the render outside
Hi mate for anyone watching and frustrated by cleaning out buckets of mud that has set .....always spray your buckets with canolia oil don't try to clean it while going off let it dry and tap the bucket everything falls out in one piece .I spray my banjo's and let it set and tap out later .
Thanks
Yes, I have had old quickset 90 minute kick-off in about 20 minutes.
I've done that (slightly different method and situation). Lipstick on all the heads, press the drywall to it, then carve out each head .
When scraping out back of board and thin remaining you can back butter so no void behind.
I go a little overboard I guess and nail some mesh over the top and then fill. Like stucco. I could see using layers. Some all purpose heavy weight to stick to the metal and then fast set on top. But of course the dry time is long for that first coat, but it sure doesn't have to be think. Could even just paint it on with a brush and a day later ready to go. I would worry about shrink cracking with 1/2 of mud. The fast set I guess solved that issue.
Have never seen that fiber tape, I'm in the US, so I like that it's 6 inch and seems easy to use. Trades really need to learn to think about the next guy !!
This isn't a 'think of the next guy' situation. This is a 'I hope the drywall guys considered these awkward spots in their bid, so that they can get paid for their expertise in dealing with these atypical spots' situation.
In other words, these spots are nobody's fault, this is just what it takes to make this building.
Still think there's a better way to do it without having to glue the dry wall !!
I've always got a spray can of a zinsser primer with me, I prime the metal brackets before caking them in w mud. Other than that, yep, this is exactly how i bury them too.
I had old 45 minute mud go off on me before. The areas I kept mudding as it set up (around 25 minute mark) ended up cracking.
Durable 90 and large mesh tape
Im assuming it's just because the basement I'm doing is so dry but oh boy does my mud set fast. Hot or regular. Mud starts drying before you've finished the wall.
I have seen entire suites re-done and drywallers fired for gaps and corners like yours
The bag could have certainly gotten wet or is old. I've had entire buckets of durabond set up in 5 minutes and it was old product. Another thing to consider is the water. The chemical composition of water can speed up the setting time I've found, just like temperature can.
Long time listener and subscriber. Yep, my go to drywall expert is a carpenter - from Vancouver.
Is carpenter Canadian for drywaller?
Usualy, I use PUR foam, 30 min later cut it straight with the wall, and use Renoband (Knauf material) over it, and next day finish it with some regular mud material.
Renoband is permanent elastic, minimal/almost to nothing shrinking, and not hard like other materials, so never cracked because of it.
Are there any similar situations where a little bit of wire lath would be useful?
mud stuck in a bucket is a good time to have one of those rounded bucket-scoops that you don't have :D
Regarding cutting out the back and it being very thin., part of the issue is that it is sitting on top of bolt heads. Have you tried filling the hole with quickset as you did, so you get a solid back (some should squish out, providing the thin drywall with support. Thoughts?
Concrete Fill is the lord and saviour in these situations. Fibre reinforced mud that set's chemically. Comes in a powder.
I've done some shady fills. For me, i'd screw in some screws around the perimeter just below the surrounding layer. Then add hot mud. For durability. How about tiling thin-set. Concrete structure for sure. Just my 2 cents. How about slapping some mesh over the fill material. Or tucking it below the two surrounding layers.
I'm glad you're doing well despite the knife/etc.
Welcome to the States! lol Not like it's the first or last, but hey, gotta be welcoming, yah?
One of my kids (and her fiance) moved to Portland a couple months ago; I feel a connection to the coast if not the city.
Maybe there would someday be a chance to get to a similar place even if I've not ever really been a skater, even in the 80's.
BMX, now.... Different story! LOL
Forbidden frosting. 😂
I’m betting most of us have had it harden up in the bucket at least once!😮😮😮
I just had a bag of 20 that kept setting up in 5-7. It just started to crumble at 5 and was useless by 7, and took forever to dry. I even tried mixing it with a clean pan and fresh water. It looked kind of like skinned over plus3 after 2-3 minutes. All I know is I picked it up at a job site and it had been open so it may have just been really old and had too much humidity or it was just a bad batch (maybe why it was left on the job).
I've done alot of drywall some people just get it iam not bad but I wish I had half of his drywall talent my old boss is so good I've seen him sand with his fingers and ready for primer on patch work
Just a DIY'er, but I've had to do that once or twice with brackets but not brackets that large and also with a patch that wasn't the same thickness as the surrounding drywall. Build it up with mud and tape it when it's built up enough. As for the hot mud cooking off, I never let it get to that point. I watch the clock and stop with plenty of time to get it out of the bucket and off my tools. For larger areas or things that would take time, I would use 90 minute. For smaller jobs, the 45 or 15 minute stuff.
Drying type mud could contain gypsum. Gypsum accelerates hot mud. Hot mud is mostly plaster of paris. It turns into gypsum when it sets by bonding to water. Adding gypsum at the start provides nucleation sites to kick off the reaction faster. Your all purpose could've made it set in 20 minutes instead of 45.