How To Test an Alternator Part 3 Regulator and Brush Pack Replacement + Slip Rings Test
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- čas přidán 4. 02. 2016
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Thanks for such a great and helpful video! This is exactly what I needed to know, took the old alternator to 3 auto stores to have it tested and each case it failed... Had them try new alternators and all those failed as well. Will check my brushes and replace the regulator if needed. Thanks Again
You are very knowledgable on alternators my friend.
good afternoon thankyou for uploading these excellent videos, my ford focus alternator was getting hot when running and giving 14.2v as per your previous video I did the diode test and got .500 one way and 1.835 the other, now I have removed the cover the diodes test fine 0.5 and OL but the regulator gives 1.835 on a diode setting is this a bad regulator or should I be checking elsewhere
Great video explained very good !
Great details. Thanks
Without the feed signal line, will the alternator charge or not
I've fitted a new alternator but get the battery light illuminated now and again on the dash. The voltage is 14.4v though, could this be down to a faulty regulator?
Great info, thanks especially diode & regulator tests. How can I bench test the voltage regulator separately?
Ever get an answer to possible bench tests?
Hello!
On my car, the old regulator has 14V, and I found a replacement one that is the same, but the voltage is 14.5V . Is it ok if I replace the 14V with the 14.5V? Is it that big of a difference? What do you think?
You'll be good, no worries
so when you see people tap on an alternator and it starts working it that the brushes that are causing that?
Just watched all 3 of your alternator videos. You are a fantastic teacher and solved for me so many mysteries of the charging circuit. I now know how to proceed in a logical fashion. Is the slit ring resistance value of 2.6 ohms standard for most alternators, or is case by case? If it is case by case, is that easily found in a service manual or online? I don't understand any of the negative comments or thumbs down.We need more skillful teachers like yourself and more encouragement from viewers who get vluable information for free. Kind Regards. Craig
Thank you for taking the time to comment Craig.
There are a lot of companies and individuals who make excessive money by replacing alternators when there are much cheaper fixes available so perhaps the negativity comes from them. 😊
The slip ring resistance range does seem to be pretty universal but you can often find exact technical specs by searching for your precise alternator part number.
The general principle and testing procedure remains the same though.
@@sirobb sorry but you didn't answer the main question about ohms/resistanse values. I want to know that as well.
Nice video. On my D5 s60 charge voltage is ~14.2 on idle and dips to 13.5-13.4 when all accessories on (lamps, window heating, etc.) Should I be worried?
Tomas TomTomas Charging voltage is usually a little lower during the warmer temperatures of Summer so your figures don't sound too bad.
It's worth checking the length of the regulator brushes and checking for voltage drop too like in this and my other videos.
Thanks. I'll check regulator brushes. P.S. I was measuring voltage when outside temperature was 30c. There was some temperature compensation in regulator, probably :)
Subbed 👍
Well presented video. My alternator appears to be failing as it intermittently stops charging on occasions but resumes charging at correct voltage after about a minute. This only happens after car has warmed up. Brushes and regulator seem ok. Only issue is a slightly whiny pulley bearing. Have you seen this behaviour.
MsCelicagt4 Thanks for the comment.
Your symptoms sound exactly like a failing alternator clutch pulley.
Thank you very much for replying.
MsCelicagt4 No problem. A good quality clutch pulley can be had for less than £30 and if it is the pulley, they can be replaced on their own without changing the alternator. The alternator itself is more than likely absolutely fine.
Hi sirrobb ive ran the tests & im not getting 500- 800v if im doing the test correct blk lead com red lead 10A socket dial set to diode symbol also reversed leads made no diff! So it must b my diodes but i recently had them replaced my an auto elect technition. Can something send them bad prematurely?
Tell what you are getting in both directions not what you aren’t getting.
Also, what were the results of the other 2 voltage tests in the video?
nice video . about 2 weeks a ago I noticed that my headlights are flickering .yesterday I disconnected the grounding connection from the battery and cleaned it .. but after reconnecting it ..it did not start anymore. I used a portable jumper ( basically an external battery ) .. the car started but the alternator was not charging .. and after I stopped the car it did not start again. I changed the battery , and retried starting it .. and if I rev it to 2,5k - 3 k rpm the alternator is charging .... if leave it at idle sometimes is stops charging..sometimes it continues charging for 30 seconds or so. Can you please give me any hints on what to look for to see what the problem is . the car was driven only 45000 km . thank you.
another detail , some oil or some moisture got on the alternator ...because it got a lot dirtier in the last month . could this dirt/oil get to where the brushes are ? alternator part code 03F 903 023 E
dany To test alternator output, you need to be taking readings directly from the alternator b+ post, the one which has the thick positive cable which feeds back into the electrical system.
Specific DC and AC voltage readings are needed under different engine speeds and electrical load.
This is a 3 part series of test videos showing several possible causes, each with their own subtle differences dependant on the results you get.
Unfortunately, your descriptions so far, don't really tell me anything.
I accidentaly shorted the alternator positive terminal with ground while disconnecting it the wire. Did I fuck the voltage regulator?
Bhartbenz cutout 5 pin check solution sir
$0.50 worth of brushes necessitating replacement of a $30 regulator, necessitating replacement of a $150-300 alternator. Ridiculous that the brushes aren't serviceable on this one. I don't see any way to change them.
Buddy, your slip rings were toast.
I see wearing out slip rings !!
Fadi Matti I don't.
youve should replace the bearing and slip ring as well... i could hear bearing noises...
toopazio fonseca The slip rings were fine and there was no bearing noise so I'm not sure what you are hearing.
have you ever change the bearing in tthe volvo? if not you need to..you can buy them on
saverepairs.com
this guys have all types of alternator parts and cheap..have look on their website
Increased engine load requires increased amperage not increased voltage.
It can increase both.
Even though it is most important that amperage and not voltage be increased during high load conditions.
Well that's the purpose of the voltage regulator and I have a current clamp and multimeter to check that it's working correctly.
What are the results shown by the current clamp as loads are increased?
Alternator output usually goes up to around 55A
Voltage regulators should be referred to as integral rather than internal or external.
Put a cover over you mike , to stop wind noise , its terrible
This is an old video. Sound issues have been rectified all videos for some time now.
Put Beano in you food , to stop wind stench , its terrible
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Bhartbenz cutout 5 pin check solution sir
Bhartbenz cutout 5 pin check solution sir