An Expensive Axe vs. A “Tuned” Axe vs. A Cheap Axe
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- I pitted the Hults Bruk Kalix felling axe against a yard sale FSS Collins boys axe I customized and a bone stock new Collins boy’s axe. I was hoping to see if it was worth buying a good axe or spending the time to customize, or tune, an axe.
- Zábava
Honest man’s assessment! Videos like this will get you far and bring a solid viewership in my opinion ☝️
Thank you!
The best axe I have cost me $2, I got an old rusty Plumb brand axe head made in USA, New England pattern head I bought at a yard sale in Vermont for $1, restored and sharpened it. And I hung it on a old hickory axe handle I bought at a different yard sale in M.A. for $1. My $2 axe has served me well.
That’s the best kind.
@@TheRevoltingMan Absolutely.
I got a vanguard BUILDERS AX boss gave it 2 me when building log homes
That is the way to do it, yard sales, estate sales, and thrift stores ROCK!
I have a Gransfors Bruks that was a gift to me 6-7 years ago . . . I am no axe expert but this is an amazing tool . . . I don't use it much because it is so nice I just leave it on the wall in the shop to admire once in awhile. Before I retired a few years ago I bought 3 or 4 old Collins axe heads at yard sales and flea markets along with a double axe head that I have not yet identified. Now that I am retired one of my goals is to restore and become more familiar with how to properly tune/use an axe. I grew up on a farm in NH and the axe was something we used almost every day. When I was a wee lad my grandfather and several of my uncles were loggers and spent months at a time at the logging camps in the north country of New Hampshire and Maine back in the 1940s and 1950s . . They were masters of the axe. Thank you sir for a great motivating video.
Came for the axes, stayed for the cardio. If only you had a saw for the cross cutting.
Seriously though, a solid comparison and observation video, amigo. Really enjoyed it. Keep doing the things.
Shalom
I like the way you talk uh huh...I'm a bear nation guy myself shalom brother..
I think cheap "beater" hatchets have their place. Cutting roots where you may accidentally hit a rock for example.
Man!! Talk about doing the things.... You are a beast! Thanks for the great video
I've always found with any tool comfort and familiarity is what to look for. Nobody uses a tool that uncomfortable. There is always a reason to put the job off.
Yeah, a bad tool will have you inside sipping sweet tea in no time.
i am wondering if you spent a little time sharpening and tuning the cheap ax, could you save it?
Whew!! I got tired just watching.. Here’s a video that you put your all into ~ THX!!🇺🇸
Thank you for the video, I hope my entwing will go far
They’re a dependable axe.
Kind of figured that I like a good forestry axe myself and I like a good double blade💥🐝✌
please think about a how to sharpen a axevideo
I would enjoy that video but I don’t think I am quite good enough yet.
GO 2 COLECRACKER ON Y TUBE LOOK IN HIS PLAY LIST. HOPE THIS HELPS
@@keithcronk7980 thanks, will look
Lol, that Collins boys axe virtually BOUNCED!.....Time for some whet stone work.
Hey I know this is not an axe related question but if you have time I would appreciate an answer. For a minute man loud out what would you suggest for clothing. Would it be old school like wool or buckskin or newer like some tactical stuff or even old surplus army clothing. I know cotton works but when wet sucks so would a waxed duck work or multiple pairs of cotton to switch threw which is more space which I don't want. I live In Pennsylvanian so it gets cold and hot throughout the year. Thanks!
I think anything loose fitting and comfortable would be fine. Obviously camouflage would be a big help but honestly if you’re marksmanship is good and your gear is good then no one is going to question your fashion sense. I tend to get the heavy woodland cammies that were issued when I served but that’s because I’m a sentiment fool.
@@TheRevoltingMan Thanks I actually bought some m81 camo outfit at an old surplus store yesterday I just need a good tomahawk which Im ordering soon from two hawks thanks for the Reply.
Now, this what I call a good prepper/outdoor living video. (And done in under 10 minutes) Very much so, loaded with information and valuable knowledge on this important tool that just ain't going away. (Axe) You done good. Big time.
The Collins needs to be sharpened .That's all.
It was plenty sharp, probably too shallow of a bevel to be honest.
Should be pointed out that any ax, upon purchasing it, you must sharpen it. The vast majority are *not* sold sharpened -- for obvious liability reasons, right? Can you imagine a rack of razor sharp axes in a hardware store? That Collins could be sharpened to perform awesomely well (and should have been before taking it into the woods). And of course, it's not a "real" Collins (a highly reputable brand back in the day). Truper out of Mexico makes them, I believe, out of materials it sources overseas. Fact check that before taking my word for it. But even so, you can make a modern "Collins" (I wince when I call it that, since it's just the name nowadays, and not really an original Collins ax) into a "good" ax. Oh, by the way: The Forest Service ax looked like a Council Tool to me (guy calls it a Collins a couple times during the vid). Was it? If so, great brand!!! I couldn't quite catch the logo, but that big, proud "USA" and the mark on the back looked for a second to be Council Tool's overlapped "C" and "T". CT *did* in fact, make FSS "forest" axes (BOYS AXES) for a while. So, to me? *Any* ax can be made into a good ax. Profile it and sharpen it according to what steel it has and what you intend to do with it. Make sure to give the bit some shoulder to back it up, either with a secondary bevel or convex bevel (Otherwise your bit might roll over, depending again on what you're using it for). So I came to this video *hoping* to hear someone say flat out, if you spend more than $60 or so on a boys ax, you're probably throwing money away -- or showing off your bank account. The expensive axes are for "conspicuous consumers" and "boosh-craft" wannabes. The $250 Gransfors Bruk, for instance, comes profiled for their best guess at what you're going to do with it. A person actually stood there with it and gave it lots of TLC. Then some monkey see, monkey do binge-watcher of Alone buys it, and first time out, puts a big nick in it. NOW what's he gonna do? He can't sharpen it, because that's what he paid the guy/gal at Gransfors Bruk to do for him. If he COULD sharpen an ax, he wouldn't have HAD to pay $250 bucks for a metal wedge on a stick. He'd have "made" his own. Because, best bang for your buck is to buy a $10-$15 head on eBay, then custom haft it with your choice of handles (I recommend House Handle Company, where the thinness and curve is an absolute delight, and their premium handles are only about $15 (but you can get them for even less if you don't mind scraping lacquer off and scraping the handles into balance, which for me, is just fun to do... Or go to Whiskey River or Beaver Tooth. Not that much more, but much greater attention to quality of wood and surfacing). For the head, use a simple file to profile it. Use a simple whetstone from the hardware store to get your secondary bevel. You don't *need* anything else to get a hair-shaving-sharp keen edge that DEVOURS wood and holds its edge for months, maybe a year or more -- until you meet a hidden nail or staple or mis-strike and nick a rock. Ax still works with nicks in it, but at some point, you'll want to reprofile it and file it and hone it again. But ALL AXES CAN BE GOOD AXES! Even Collins. Even crap from China (which I think Collins/Truper metal actually is). And even THEN, even *if* you have to take out your stone and touch up your bit now and then because the metal is a bit softer, so what? It's just part of being ax men and women. It's a joy to do!l In conclusion, don't just go to the hardware store, buy an ax, start bucking on timber and then declare it's no good. You are SUPPOSED to sharpen the ax first. It's required of you. And it's not that hard. Experiment to learn what primary bevel is best for that metal, your wood species, and what you want to do with it. Maybe it's 25 deg. Maybe it's 18. If you don't want to get into that, you really shouldn't oughta have bought an ax. (What were you thinking, right? It's a metal wedge. On a stick. Period.Throwing money at that most primitive of designs (oldest tool of human beings?) doesn't make it "work better"). Maybe axes aren't for you. Get a bowsaw. Or maybe hire your chopping done. (And no, buying a chainsaw isn't a better option!!!! Because if you don't have time to learn simple axmanship, oh, whoa boy -- you for SURE don't have time to learn how how to tune and maintain a chainsaw head and keep your chain filed properly. And if you thought AXES cost a lot of money...... LOL :)
Good job👍👍🪓
It's impossible for a man to get fat or stay fat if he swings an axe all day.
heck i could cut that in half the time with my saw on my SAK
No you couldn’t.
At least the man isn't talking and showing off olights..... sorry pj.
Take a Cold Steel Trail Boss, and strip the factory crap off of it and refinish and sharpen and forget.
I have a few quibbles with the longevity of the Rhineland pattern heads under hard use but there’s no doubt that they are effective axes.
@@TheRevoltingMan Unless there is some catastrophic fracture in the forging I can't see one failing. They cut like mad. The Trail Boss is the best boy's axe I've ever used, but it would be great if they made a slightly larger version with a little more weight to them. Fell in love with the Rhinelands. Besides some that are coming out of eastern Europe on Ebay, I can't find a good maker of new and heavier ones. I may have lucked out with the hickory they put on mine, it blew me away. Use it for banging wedges (could have a little more weight, maybe couple ounces for that but not complaining), and using one handed for popping heads off of cottonmouths.
The issue, and U’ve only read about this not experienced it, is that the shorter eye is more prone to allow the head to “see saw” under heavy use and so loosen faster than a design with a taller eye.