Still waiting on a door jam wiring harness repair so I can share it on all my CRV sites on Facebook and help grow your channel. The passenger floor water leak and the door harness are the two most common inquiries, lots of water leak repair videos but the only wiring harness repair video requires removing fenders and purchasing 100$ replacement ends
Much smarter way of doing it than I did by cutting. Wish I would have watched your video first. Mine has worked pretty much flawlessly except recently I drove a 7 hour round-trip pulling a very small trailer when I went to pick up another engine. Halfway there my check engine light came on for the crank sensor. The car still drove completely normal I still got great fuel mileage and everything seemed the same except for the check engine light being on. I cleared it when I got back and it hasn't come on again since🤷🏼♂️
Great video!! I just reserved a low km JDM 2.0L to put in my 99' this week. This video and the other you posted on an engine swap about a year ago, that I've watched 5 times now, has been helping me tremendously! Thank you! Just subscribed! Question: For the crank sensor bypass, I understand the connecting the yellow and blue wires in the harness, and I much prefer your solder method too btw. But why connect the black and white wires? This for proper grounding?
Hi I came across your channel but i have a honda jazz im assuming that the same principal does apply however i have done the modification i just wanted to know if i was supposed to leave the plug going to the crank sensor unplugged?
Super helpful video! I wanted to ask if when someone does this if the could just leave the old crankshaft sensor plugged in? I am debating doing this to see if it may fix a crank but no start issue I am having in my 1st gen but I cannot get at the plug to unplug it. Thanks for the help!
My 99 crv sometimes revs when it is in park or if I’m stopped. I think it could be a vacuum leak but I’m not sure. Have you ever dealt with that before and if so can you make a video on how to fix it?
Please my Honda CR-V 1996 model when scanned is detecting NO Signal for crankshaft sensor,...but on checking the engine no location for the crankshaft sensor,... please help me out
I have an 01 that i just replaced a broken timing belt on. I noticed my crank sensor wires were bare in one spot and just tried to tape them up. I figured that would be fine. I got a 1336 code on a short drive. Im assuming my taping job didnt fix it. Can i do this to get rid of that code? Do i keep the sensor plugged in after?
I watched the whole video and i couldn't find a difference from the 97-98 mine is a 99 manual and i did this and it still has cel. Do i absolutely need to disconnect the crank sensor, because that might be my issue?
there is 100% a difference in the wiring on 97-98 and 99-01. You do need to disconnect the sensor. If it still has the light on after that, either you have another issue or you did it wrong.
Love the channel and great video bro, im having an issue with my car, my rpm cluster is not working and it only works when my alternator goes bad lol (it happened twice that’s how I know) a battery light will come on and the rpms will start working, do you have any idea if this crank sensor bypass is what i need to do or is it something else? Thank you in advance! It’s a b20b turbo charge so i have to engine light cuz of the tune in a s300
Just installed a jdm b20 into my 2000 crv and it won’t turn over, do I have to jump the wires like you did in order for it to turn over or is there another issue why it won’t turn over
why would you bypass the crankshaft speed fluctuation sensor? I know the crankshaft position sensor is in the distributor on the rd1 CRV? Had to replace my distributor because they do not sell the CKP sensor separately
Hey quick question, I have a 97 crv with a swapped 99 motor (usdm) and the old intake from the 97 motor. Have a p1381 cel on, changed the dizzy and fuel filter and main relay. Still runs harsh and shuts off while at a stop. So would the obd2a baypass work to fix the problem??
I have a question and i believe you are the one with the answer, however any response from anyone is appreciated. How do i know what engine or tranny i have and what they are rated for, i have tried searching extensively for the 2000 crv ex 4wd manual but the only result i recieved was "2 liter, 4 cylinder" and "5 speed manual". I am trying to find a manual/guide so i know all the torque specs and type of engine i have and what my transmission is rated for. Even the owners manual doesn't say anything I tried looking for the 'code' on the side of the engine but i believe it is between the transmission and the engine, and i dont plan on seperating them until i have to change the clutch. Thank you in advance for your help and your videos, the help a lot.
@@hondaresource thank you for the quick reply, i really appreciate it, may i ask where you found the information? Is there a manual or a guide(for future reference) or is it from your experience? I also see that my engine is manufactured in japan, would that make a difference? Also i saw your video on valve adjustment on the firat gen and you used 12mm valve adjustment tool, online they say honda is standard 10mm, is this something they implemented later or is it possible that there was different engines for the first gen depending on the transmission and model? Again i truly appreciate your help.
I can't find any video you've uploaded that relates directly to my question, this one's the closest so I'll ask I hope you don't mind.? Just swapped my 99' crv from auto to manual, also replaced the auto engine harness for a manual 5spd one. My current dilemma is it won't start and my key gets stuck in the ignition switch unless I disconnect the battery. How can I fix this? Thanks
Gotta disconnect the interlock and fool it to think it's in park to get it to start. Email me phillip@thehondaresource.com and I'll see if I can help with some wiring diagrams
@@hondaresource I replace the engine on my 2000 Honda crv the guy that sold it to me never said it was a Japanese engine. Now the vehicle turns off on me after like half a mile. Will the bypass fix that problem?
@hondaresource would they still be the same colored wires? If so, I followed your previous video on ti's same issue, when I started the car it idled badly, but "tapped" the wires not solder like you did.
I understand. The JDM B20B didn't come with a crank position sensor on the oil pump. Additionally if you have one like me with the crank position sensor broken you can bypass it with this method.
@@hondaresource ok, thanks. I get what your saying. Now I need to wrap my head around an engine that doesn't have a crank sensor... My world is upside down now🙄 I will google it👍 got it super old motors with distributors. 😅
It's just a crank fluctuation sensor, nothing that is useful. Hondas use the CYP sensor in the distributor for timing. I believe I've told you this once before lol.
@@sideshow45 not on this , it was on db garage on the b engine cam sensor. I dont know b's and I havent worked on 80's older vehicles since 94. Its the idiots who ask the questions who learn the most👍
@@hondaresource I just tride it but it didn't work maybe I have the wrong wires connected. I did black and white and then yellow with blue and red stripe. I'm not sure if that's correct and by the way thanks for getting back to me so fast preciate it
Did this in a '99 with a Japanese B20 about a year ago. It's worked out well, but I wish that I'd have had your video to help. Love the channel.
Heck yeah man!
Great knowledge! Good to know in the event someone has trouble tracking down ghost crank sensor problems.
Thanks 👍
Still waiting on a door jam wiring harness repair so I can share it on all my CRV sites on Facebook and help grow your channel. The passenger floor water leak and the door harness are the two most common inquiries, lots of water leak repair videos but the only wiring harness repair video requires removing fenders and purchasing 100$ replacement ends
my method still requires removing the fender, but can be done for little to nothing.
@@hondaresource have you looked into removing a few clips under the dash to allow the wiring harness to extend out far enough to work on?
Fixed mine by removing a few clips from under the dash to extend the wiring out to work on and removing the door speaker to get to the backside
Much smarter way of doing it than I did by cutting. Wish I would have watched your video first. Mine has worked pretty much flawlessly except recently I drove a 7 hour round-trip pulling a very small trailer when I went to pick up another engine. Halfway there my check engine light came on for the crank sensor. The car still drove completely normal I still got great fuel mileage and everything seemed the same except for the check engine light being on. I cleared it when I got back and it hasn't come on again since🤷🏼♂️
Great video!! I just reserved a low km JDM 2.0L to put in my 99' this week. This video and the other you posted on an engine swap about a year ago, that I've watched 5 times now, has been helping me tremendously! Thank you! Just subscribed!
Question: For the crank sensor bypass, I understand the connecting the yellow and blue wires in the harness, and I much prefer your solder method too btw.
But why connect the black and white wires? This for proper grounding?
It completes positive and negative circuits.
As always, nice work! How about a low buck ebay turbo setup on the current engine before the K swap to compare performance and fun factor?
Not a bad idea, I just don't know that it would be worth the return on investment. I already have many of the pieces for the k series.
@@hondaresource do a tail pipe turbo with a remote oil system. No need for a fancy manifold or tapping in oil lines to the engine.
Like button smashed. Did this awhile ago on my ek that I owned for 2 months lol.
You are a boss Hogg outlaw 💪🏽
Good video I'm gonna be doing a jdm b20 swap and don't wanna place the oil pump
Hi I came across your channel but i have a honda jazz im assuming that the same principal does apply however i have done the modification i just wanted to know if i was supposed to leave the plug going to the crank sensor unplugged?
Super helpful video! I wanted to ask if when someone does this if the could just leave the old crankshaft sensor plugged in? I am debating doing this to see if it may fix a crank but no start issue I am having in my 1st gen but I cannot get at the plug to unplug it. Thanks for the help!
Nice! Good to know
My 99 crv sometimes revs when it is in park or if I’m stopped. I think it could be a vacuum leak but I’m not sure. Have you ever dealt with that before and if so can you make a video on how to fix it?
Probably fitv
Please my Honda CR-V 1996 model when scanned is detecting NO Signal for crankshaft sensor,...but on checking the engine no location for the crankshaft sensor,... please help me out
Is it the white solid wire or white with red
So i did this and the crank sensor code went away but now it throws a knock sensor code. Do you know what could be the issue?
I have an 01 that i just replaced a broken timing belt on. I noticed my crank sensor wires were bare in one spot and just tried to tape them up. I figured that would be fine. I got a 1336 code on a short drive. Im assuming my taping job didnt fix it. Can i do this to get rid of that code? Do i keep the sensor plugged in after?
Yes, and disconnect the sensor
if you ever get out to Montana I will give you a new back glass.
I already replaced it, thank you though
Awesome vid bud!👍🏼🔥
Thank you!
I watched the whole video and i couldn't find a difference from the 97-98 mine is a 99 manual and i did this and it still has cel. Do i absolutely need to disconnect the crank sensor, because that might be my issue?
there is 100% a difference in the wiring on 97-98 and 99-01. You do need to disconnect the sensor. If it still has the light on after that, either you have another issue or you did it wrong.
Love the channel and great video bro, im having an issue with my car, my rpm cluster is not working and it only works when my alternator goes bad lol (it happened twice that’s how I know) a battery light will come on and the rpms will start working, do you have any idea if this crank sensor bypass is what i need to do or is it something else? Thank you in advance! It’s a b20b turbo charge so i have to engine light cuz of the tune in a s300
i have lxi civic 2000 none vtec im planning yo swap b20 manual trasmission can i use mh old harness
Yes but you'll have to make some minor changes. Mostly the iacv wiring
Good video man✅💪🏾
Thanks !
Just installed a jdm b20 into my 2000 crv and it won’t turn over, do I have to jump the wires like you did in order for it to turn over or is there another issue why it won’t turn over
you have another issue.
Question What is the front pipe guard for? Mine is bent to shit from previous owner. Its about 100 bucks. Is it worth replacing? Thank you God bless
why would you bypass the crankshaft speed fluctuation sensor? I know the crankshaft position sensor is in the distributor on the rd1 CRV? Had to replace my distributor because they do not sell the CKP sensor separately
Jdm engine doesn't have the sensor or place for it
i hope you give me advice
Hey quick question, I have a 97 crv with a swapped 99 motor (usdm) and the old intake from the 97 motor. Have a p1381 cel on, changed the dizzy and fuel filter and main relay. Still runs harsh and shuts off while at a stop. So would the obd2a baypass work to fix the problem??
I have a question and i believe you are the one with the answer, however any response from anyone is appreciated.
How do i know what engine or tranny i have and what they are rated for, i have tried searching extensively for the 2000 crv ex 4wd manual but the only result i recieved was "2 liter, 4 cylinder" and "5 speed manual".
I am trying to find a manual/guide so i know all the torque specs and type of engine i have and what my transmission is rated for.
Even the owners manual doesn't say anything
I tried looking for the 'code' on the side of the engine but i believe it is between the transmission and the engine, and i dont plan on seperating them until i have to change the clutch.
Thank you in advance for your help and your videos, the help a lot.
Sounds like you have a b20z2 engine. I believe the trans is sbxm
@@hondaresource thank you for the quick reply, i really appreciate it, may i ask where you found the information? Is there a manual or a guide(for future reference) or is it from your experience?
I also see that my engine is manufactured in japan, would that make a difference?
Also i saw your video on valve adjustment on the firat gen and you used 12mm valve adjustment tool, online they say honda is standard 10mm, is this something they implemented later or is it possible that there was different engines for the first gen depending on the transmission and model?
Again i truly appreciate your help.
I can't find any video you've uploaded that relates directly to my question, this one's the closest so I'll ask I hope you don't mind.? Just swapped my 99' crv from auto to manual, also replaced the auto engine harness for a manual 5spd one. My current dilemma is it won't start and my key gets stuck in the ignition switch unless I disconnect the battery. How can I fix this? Thanks
Gotta disconnect the interlock and fool it to think it's in park to get it to start. Email me phillip@thehondaresource.com and I'll see if I can help with some wiring diagrams
@@hondaresource Thanks! I just emailed you 👍
Will this bypass work for California emission
I'm not sure. I would think yes, but I've never lived in California
Help me bro trying to do same thing got another box on top ecm box HELP HELP HELP
hi sir just asking automatic ecu can use manual trasmission
Can you? Yes. You will have a check engine light on did all the transmission codes
Will this work for me if I'm running a p28 ecu
Do you know where the purge solenoid is on the Jdm b20B? Cant seem to find it
Doesn't have it
@@hondaresource thanks for your responds and detailed videos man!! Now I’m able to drive my RD1 again! Very much appreciated.
Would you know if I can do this bypass on a 98 civic with a b20b running a p75 with a obd1 step down harness ?
No need to do it if you are running obd1 ecu.
Okay I wasn’t sure cause I am getting a code for it and I’m having the symptoms of a bad ckf but that plug is not plugged In to anything.
What happened with that? I'm gonna be doing this soon. I have an obd1 ecu and I'm about to install a JDM B20B. @Shopsgm
Will a jdm tranny work on us motor ?
Wouldn't just transfering the crank position sensor from old engine to "new" b20b import work just the same? Curious
Yes, but it's not that simple. You have to change the whole complete oil pump.
@@hondaresource Sorry, yes forgot to mention that too along with the crank gear.
Qonder if this would work for my 97 accord with a jdm f20b
You need obd2a for that one
Make an off road tests video
For sure
I also need to replace my rear o2 sensor. Is it something I want to replace or does that sensor not really matter???
It'll keep the check engine light off
So it won't affect fuel economy or anything?
Wheres the video for the 97 98
I didn't have one. Thought I did but it was also 99-01 🤣
post link for the obd2a plz
I guess the order one I did was also obd2b. I'll make one for "a" soon
@@hondaresource thanks man, my rd1 is a obd2a, think i have a tps issue. Idles a bit high.
What does the bypass do to the vehicle??
Prevents check engine light when using a JDM engine or one with a bad crank position sensor
@@hondaresource I replace the engine on my 2000 Honda crv the guy that sold it to me never said it was a Japanese engine. Now the vehicle turns off on me after like half a mile. Will the bypass fix that problem?
@@fernandocamberos4310 is it a Japanese engine?
@@hondaresource yeah didn’t know till my mechanic told me this engine does not have a crank sensor connection
if you do this bypass, it will eliminate the need for it. @@fernandocamberos4310
Can i do this with my 97 crv ? My code is p1359 as well
Yes but wires are in a different location
@hondaresource would they still be the same colored wires? If so, I followed your previous video on ti's same issue, when I started the car it idled badly, but "tapped" the wires not solder like you did.
Can someone link me the video to the 97 crv one
Turns out, I didn't do the obd2a yet. I should have one soon
For us noobs it would be nice if you explained in what scenerios this crank sensor removal is needed and why. 👍
I understand. The JDM B20B didn't come with a crank position sensor on the oil pump. Additionally if you have one like me with the crank position sensor broken you can bypass it with this method.
@@hondaresource ok, thanks. I get what your saying. Now I need to wrap my head around an engine that doesn't have a crank sensor... My world is upside down now🙄 I will google it👍 got it super old motors with distributors. 😅
It's just a crank fluctuation sensor, nothing that is useful. Hondas use the CYP sensor in the distributor for timing. I believe I've told you this once before lol.
@@sideshow45 not on this , it was on db garage on the b engine cam sensor. I dont know b's and I havent worked on 80's older vehicles since 94. Its the idiots who ask the questions who learn the most👍
Aren't all crv obd2b? My 97 is obd2b 🤔
No. ALL 96-98 Hondas are obd2a
Would this work for a P0336 code?
So does this work for a 98 honda crv manual transmission b20b ? I think this might be the problem with mine
yes. Wire location are slightly different on obd2a though
@@hondaresource I just tride it but it didn't work maybe I have the wrong wires connected. I did black and white and then yellow with blue and red stripe. I'm not sure if that's correct and by the way thanks for getting back to me so fast preciate it