I really appreciated this video. The naming issues in this topic are confusing for people just coming to it. So many things go by multiple names and some of those names refer to yet other things within the same field. Very confusing, but you laid it out very simply. Thank you.
Another great video. If you haven’t already produced a video showing mix ratios (except for the premixed bags), mixing techniques,and workability time, please consider this.
I hope you make/upload videos more often, so hard to find good masonry information on YT, the most underrated trade, I moved from Oregon go Colorado just to get in the trade, I love it so far and wanna continue learning. So finding your channel was great help and makes learning simple and fun.
Hey! I'm a new construction management teacher. I am a finish carpenter and framer by trade who specialized in built in cabinetry and remodels. I know a LOT of the basics of construction and would be able to get by on my own but now I have to follow a curriculum and explain it all to Juniors and Seniors in high school. I just discovered your videos and I can tell they're going to be super helpful to me and my students. I have done very little masonry and know the basics like this video. But I was wondering if you use a weaker mortar for your class projects. I know when I learned the basics of brick laying in college, we used some sort of mixture of lime and sand that gave the feel of mortar but when it dried, it would crumble so we could disassemble the structure the next day and start a new project in its place. The dried chunks would then be crushed up and reused. Do you know anything about this? I'm looking for some ideas so I don't have to blow the budget on wasted cement and work my butt off breaking up projects when students leave for summer break. Any info would be awesome and I look forward to watching more of these!
Great question! The mix ratio for that type of mortar is 1 part lime (get it at Home Depot or Lowes) to 4 parts sand (bar sand). Its a fine sand, similar to sand on the beach. It will get about as hard as a piece of sidewalk chalk. The project can be disassembled, the mortar broken down/crushed, and thrown right back in to the mixer. Re-used over and over. The units can be re-used over and over as well.
Ok. I get the difference. Now you can use just flour and water to make pasta. So can you use just Portland cement to cover old tile. I used this special cement blend with a brush to adhere to existing old epoxy bath tub. Then I primed and painted it with wall paint. Then I faux painted it to look like marble. It's held up for 12 years. Now, could I just use plain portland cement the same way? The cement blend I used costs $160 for a 40 pound bag. Quite a bit higher than portland cement. Could the cement blend I am using be some sort of plaster? Does that use portland cement, too?
Thanks for the comment! I don't know what kind of mix you originally purchased, but at $160 per bag, it must be some good stuff! There's most likely some additives in that mix, something that will allow some flex, while maintaining strength. Similar to latex additives in tile thin-set and tile grout. A straight portland cement mix will be brittle, and crack with the slightest movement. I only recommend a water and portland slurry to be used as a bonding agent on the underside of flagstone before setting in mortar.
@@masonry201 Ah, bummer. I was hoping I could get away with not having to buy such expensive cement. Any suggestions as to what one could add to portland cement to give it the flex you mentioned? Actually, the way they meant it to be used is to make counter tops where you add the cement blend to wood box. Then after painting the counter top with the cement, you add epoxy to it. Well, I wanted something that would stick to the bath tub so I used it by brushing it on in 2 coats, etc. The coats were very thin. Since the substrate was hard and only humans would stand on it, I don't think it would ever crack. I am using it on bathroom tile in another shower and it's pretty hard, even with thin layer. But I wanted to use something else on the 2nd layer so I can use that something else on future jobs. What about Vinyl Concrete Patch Repair by Quikrete? Thx for responding so quickly. Blessings.
I appreciate the effort, but I don't bake or pour concrete/ cement etc. Can we cheat a little and you just tell me what i need to make stepping stones??
Ok, so smart newb question... if the lime makes the portland weak or "spongy", then why does mortar have it in the mix? The entire brick/block structure depends as much on the strength of the mortar as it does the block. All vertical pressure is exerted as much on the mortar as it is on the block. Please explain since the few of us out there with some common engineering sense might see this as a problem when it obviously isn't historically speaking.
@@murphydowning2495 great question! Long answer…we’ll use the “masonry cement” as an example. The ratio of sand to “powder” is 3:1 when mixing mortar. The powder ingredients can be manipulated by increasing or decreasing the amounts of either the cement or lime. The bags of masonry cement come in types (M,S,N,O,K). M-highest concentration of cement to lime (mostly cement); K-lowest concentration of cement to lime (mostly lime). You’d think one would always just want the strongest mortar. Big mistake. The mortars compressive strength HAS to be weaker than the units that are laid with it. Laying concrete block underground, we’ll generally use type M. Laying brick indoors above grade, usually type N. Historical work with soft brick, indoors, usually type K. There’s even more to it, with costs, lime based mortars, freeze-thaw cycles, etc. in general, the mortar NEEDS to be weaker than the units laid, or the structure will destroy itself when expanding and contracting. Thanks for the question!
@@masonry201 Thanks for the explanation! As much as I'd love to know the exact chemistry as well as engineering reasons for different types in different applications, I think I'll just go by recommendations for this one! Believe it or not, all of my curiosity in masonry stems from a recent need to install footings under support piers as well as to make some kind of "wall" on the edge of a wash to hold down any more erosion from water coming down as well as flowing by... Haha
Thanks for the comment! I recommend a pre-mixed, lime based mortar. I don't know where you live, but a well-known product is DeGruchy LimeWorks Mortar, in PA. They can also help you match the texture and color.
Great question! So many variables, but if were talking an 8" poured concrete wall vs. an 8" hollow block wall (no rebar, wire, etc), the poured concrete wall will be able to handle a higher compressive load, and a higher tensile load (side ways force). Again, there's a lot of variables that make it either way.
Thanks for the question! I'm not 100% familiar with tile setting mortars/thin-sets. Although they usually are cement-based, I don't know the thin-set ratios! I'm pretty sure the ratios depend on the thickness of tile, location of the work (indoor/outdoor), and the substrate the tiles going on (concrete, plywood, etc.) I'd recommend asking a tile professional.
Great question! Hydrated Lime, commonly found at Lowes Or Home Depot, won't have any strength to it. It's been processed to be that way. However, Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL) will have some strength if mixed with water by itself. I can't think of any practical use for it though, where it is used by itself with water.
![Spreading Mortar for Block Work [For Students]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ihJ-n1hThhA/mqdefault.jpg)
![Building a Brick Pier [For Students]](/img/n.gif)
Dislike. Thumbs Up to Dislike.
No stone left unturned! Fantastic vid! Thanks! 😊
Thanks for the comment!
This helped explain a lot. I like how you compared it to cooking stuff because it made it easy to understand.
I really appreciated this video. The naming issues in this topic are confusing for people just coming to it. So many things go by multiple names and some of those names refer to yet other things within the same field. Very confusing, but you laid it out very simply. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment! I agree, the terms can be (needlessly) confusing! I wish they came up with different names of products! :)
Making me hungry already with this cooking show.
😆Thanks for the comment!
Another great video. If you haven’t already produced a video showing mix ratios (except for the premixed bags), mixing techniques,and workability time, please consider this.
Thanks for the comment! I plan to do exactly that, but it won't be for a while. Probably around Thanksgiving or Christmas.
Best video I ever see.
Thanks for the comment!
This helps so much as I cook a lot and have been confused by mortar/concrete/cement and so forth
Thanks for the comment! Glad it helps!
Very helpful, thank you
Thanks for the comment!
Thank you. This was exactly what I was looking for to learn the difference between everything. I am happily following you!🎉
Thanks for the comment!
And now you know how you lay block and brick and how to bake
Thanks for laying it all out. It's cool to see what the actual differences are.
Thanks for the comment!
thank you so much for the way you explain it
Thanks for the comment!
Greatest video ever ! Time to make dinner! But all jokes aside, this is a good comprehensive comparison for understanding!
Thanks for the comment!
A real education! Thank you
Thanks for the comment!
Very helpful. Thanks, man!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment!
Excellent video, you solved my puzzle. Thank you!!!
Thanks for the comment!
I hope you make/upload videos more often, so hard to find good masonry information on YT, the most underrated trade, I moved from Oregon go Colorado just to get in the trade, I love it so far and wanna continue learning. So finding your channel was great help and makes learning simple and fun.
Thanks for the comment!
Hey! I'm a new construction management teacher. I am a finish carpenter and framer by trade who specialized in built in cabinetry and remodels. I know a LOT of the basics of construction and would be able to get by on my own but now I have to follow a curriculum and explain it all to Juniors and Seniors in high school.
I just discovered your videos and I can tell they're going to be super helpful to me and my students. I have done very little masonry and know the basics like this video. But I was wondering if you use a weaker mortar for your class projects. I know when I learned the basics of brick laying in college, we used some sort of mixture of lime and sand that gave the feel of mortar but when it dried, it would crumble so we could disassemble the structure the next day and start a new project in its place. The dried chunks would then be crushed up and reused.
Do you know anything about this? I'm looking for some ideas so I don't have to blow the budget on wasted cement and work my butt off breaking up projects when students leave for summer break.
Any info would be awesome and I look forward to watching more of these!
Great question! The mix ratio for that type of mortar is 1 part lime (get it at Home Depot or Lowes) to 4 parts sand (bar sand). Its a fine sand, similar to sand on the beach.
It will get about as hard as a piece of sidewalk chalk. The project can be disassembled, the mortar broken down/crushed, and thrown right back in to the mixer. Re-used over and over. The units can be re-used over and over as well.
This explains alot thx
Thanks for the comment!
Great video!
Thanks for the comment!
Well explained!
So brickwork is muffins. I will help spread the word
Thx u
❤
cual es la proporcion de arena, cemento y cal para un buen mortero???
Ok. I get the difference. Now you can use just flour and water to make pasta. So can you use just Portland cement to cover old tile. I used this special cement blend with a brush to adhere to existing old epoxy bath tub. Then I primed and painted it with wall paint. Then I faux painted it to look like marble. It's held up for 12 years. Now, could I just use plain portland cement the same way? The cement blend I used costs $160 for a 40 pound bag. Quite a bit higher than portland cement. Could the cement blend I am using be some sort of plaster? Does that use portland cement, too?
Thanks for the comment! I don't know what kind of mix you originally purchased, but at $160 per bag, it must be some good stuff! There's most likely some additives in that mix, something that will allow some flex, while maintaining strength. Similar to latex additives in tile thin-set and tile grout.
A straight portland cement mix will be brittle, and crack with the slightest movement. I only recommend a water and portland slurry to be used as a bonding agent on the underside of flagstone before setting in mortar.
@@masonry201 Ah, bummer. I was hoping I could get away with not having to buy such expensive cement. Any suggestions as to what one could add to portland cement to give it the flex you mentioned? Actually, the way they meant it to be used is to make counter tops where you add the cement blend to wood box. Then after painting the counter top with the cement, you add epoxy to it. Well, I wanted something that would stick to the bath tub so I used it by brushing it on in 2 coats, etc. The coats were very thin. Since the substrate was hard and only humans would stand on it, I don't think it would ever crack. I am using it on bathroom tile in another shower and it's pretty hard, even with thin layer. But I wanted to use something else on the 2nd layer so I can use that something else on future jobs. What about Vinyl Concrete Patch Repair by Quikrete? Thx for responding so quickly. Blessings.
...oversimplification DISTRACTSfrom FACTS!!!!
@@johnm.washington7449 okay, BUT how??!!!! Thanks for the comment!
I appreciate the effort, but I don't bake or pour concrete/ cement etc. Can we cheat a little and you just tell me what i need to make stepping stones??
Thanks for the question! 10:28 Concrete
Ok, so smart newb question... if the lime makes the portland weak or "spongy", then why does mortar have it in the mix? The entire brick/block structure depends as much on the strength of the mortar as it does the block. All vertical pressure is exerted as much on the mortar as it is on the block. Please explain since the few of us out there with some common engineering sense might see this as a problem when it obviously isn't historically speaking.
@@murphydowning2495 great question! Long answer…we’ll use the “masonry cement” as an example. The ratio of sand to “powder” is 3:1 when mixing mortar. The powder ingredients can be manipulated by increasing or decreasing the amounts of either the cement or lime. The bags of masonry cement come in types (M,S,N,O,K). M-highest concentration of cement to lime (mostly cement); K-lowest concentration of cement to lime (mostly lime).
You’d think one would always just want the strongest mortar. Big mistake. The mortars compressive strength HAS to be weaker than the units that are laid with it. Laying concrete block underground, we’ll generally use type M. Laying brick indoors above grade, usually type N. Historical work with soft brick, indoors, usually type K.
There’s even more to it, with costs, lime based mortars, freeze-thaw cycles, etc.
in general, the mortar NEEDS to be weaker than the units laid, or the structure will destroy itself when expanding and contracting. Thanks for the question!
@@masonry201 Thanks for the explanation! As much as I'd love to know the exact chemistry as well as engineering reasons for different types in different applications, I think I'll just go by recommendations for this one! Believe it or not, all of my curiosity in masonry stems from a recent need to install footings under support piers as well as to make some kind of "wall" on the edge of a wash to hold down any more erosion from water coming down as well as flowing by... Haha
Excellent information. What is the recipe for mortar used by students, where their final result has to be dismantled?
It’s 1 part lime to 4 parts sand. Then add water. Gets about as hard as a piece of chalk for a chalkboard. Thanks for the question!
@@masonry201 Is that Hydrated Lime or just Lime?
@@dc-wp8oc hydrated lime. The bags are found just about anywhere, like Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc. Roughly $10 for a 50 pound bag
Very Helpful...however, I need a mortar to repair 120 year old adobe bricks, (interior walls). I know not to use cement. What would you advise?
Thanks for the comment!
I recommend a pre-mixed, lime based mortar. I don't know where you live, but a well-known product is DeGruchy LimeWorks Mortar, in PA. They can also help you match the texture and color.
Great, thank you! Resources for this aged adobe casita in NM are few and far between. I appreciate your help!
What’s stronger a block wAll or a poured wall
Great question! So many variables, but if were talking an 8" poured concrete wall vs. an 8" hollow block wall (no rebar, wire, etc), the poured concrete wall will be able to handle a higher compressive load, and a higher tensile load (side ways force). Again, there's a lot of variables that make it either way.
@@masonry201 thank you 🙏
👍🧱
...let's pretend U aren't talking 2CHILDREN!!!!
Okay! Do it! Thanks for the comment!
can we use portland cement type 1/2 for ceramic tile ?
Thanks for the question! I'm not 100% familiar with tile setting mortars/thin-sets. Although they usually are cement-based, I don't know the thin-set ratios! I'm pretty sure the ratios depend on the thickness of tile, location of the work (indoor/outdoor), and the substrate the tiles going on (concrete, plywood, etc.) I'd recommend asking a tile professional.
can lime adding water can bond by itself?
Great question! Hydrated Lime, commonly found at Lowes Or Home Depot, won't have any strength to it. It's been processed to be that way. However, Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL) will have some strength if mixed with water by itself. I can't think of any practical use for it though, where it is used by itself with water.