Replacing Fork Seals - Triumph Bonneville T140
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- čas přidán 28. 07. 2021
- Follow me as I strip down the front end of my Triumph Bonneville T140, fit new folk oil seals and change the fork oil
You can download a number of useful resources from my "Buy Me a Coffee" page - all free with no catches - it is just a convenient place to make downloads easily available (but there is an option to buy me a coffee if you enjoyed this video and feel overwhelmed with gratitude) - including:
- T140 service checklist;
- T140 torque settings;
- T140 parts catalogue
and other items: www.buymeacoffee.com/fromthes... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Nice , clear piece thanks. And I really agree how it is a great opportunity, at these times, to clean and apply protectant to the inside of the often -
overlooked Wheel Guards.
Thanks for your help.
Easy to listen to a DIY bloke who knows his stuff !
Flattery gets you everywhere!
Very good just the ticket, the information about socket size for the damper rod was a real help. I'll go an finish the job now. I took the tank off as i am concerned about the paint work . You did not mention but I was glad you put the drain screws back in to avoid the new oil running back out. Thanks great job!!
Hi Peter. Thanks for your comments. I'll be making another video on the T140 in the next few weeks. I've decided to fit progressive fork springs and change to even heavier fork oil. Look out for the video if you are interested!
Very good video with great camera work so we can actually see what's going on, thanks very much.
Thanks Steve. I've invested in a better camera and some studio lights since filming this, so so hopefully even better quality visuals in future videos.
Thanks. I can now move forward with the front forks on my Silver Jubilee after watching your video
Excellent!
Super, I will now go ahead with my T160 forks
All the best!
gday u helped me no end with my new t140 "76 replacing fork tubes seals rebuild brakes etc well done video
Thanks for the very informative video, however I'm not sure how you managed to get a socket to sit on the nut on top of the damper, when I tried various sizes none would sit on it as there appears to not be enough clearance for a normal socket to fit. I ended up using a home made large flat blade to hold the damper rod still.
Good job, Useful info...nicely done, sir..Thanks...'79 T140E
Thanks a lot mate! That is exactly what I looked for.
Glad I could help!
I delved into my forks (after receiving inspiration from your video here) and can report that I met a few headaches. The cap screw (AKA Allen Screw) in the base of my LH leg undid easily without my needing to even try and hold the inner damper. However I wasn't so lucky with the screw in the base of my RH leg. So I gritted my teeth (because I HATE damaging my tools) and ground down the outer circumference of my 13/16" socket to under 27.5 mm diameter so I could slide it down into that leg from the top and thus grip the hex on top of the spinning damper. What did it do? Well the damned nut on top of the damper unwound instead, leaving me still with my screw locked into my damper shaft (but with a lovely nut in my hand to admire)!!!! "Expletive". That of course left me no choice but to drill the head off the Allen Screw (which wasn't easy of course because the screw was harder than normal steel and required multiple resharpening of my drill bits and the use of cutting oil etc).
But at least now I finally have both fork legs looking pretty and in great condition with new seals and new damper O-rings etc.
I thought you might like a laugh. I can remember having similar experiences way back when I was a teenager riding my Tiger 110 to and from college. Why old classic Triumph motorcycles never turned me off engineering I'll never know! In actual fact, I still love engineering and even love working on these British bikes (where the design engineers never considered accessibility of fasteners and forced mechanics to follow complicated sequences for even the most simple of jobs) . I must be a glutton for punishment!!!!
Thanks for sharing. I feel for you! Classic bike ownership is an emotional rollercoaster.
Seems like a weird design with that dowdy washer on the inside of the fork. How do you know it's in place when you put the bolt back in? I've got a minor leak around that allen head and I figured I'd take it out, maybe put a new dowdy washer on. Looks like in order to do that I'll have to pull the fork off. I was hoping I could just take off the bottom fork cap, remove the wheel, unscrew that allen bolt and replace the washer.
So if I just needed to replace the oil would I need to take off the wheel and bars .great video by the way
Depends on whether you can gain access to refill the oil without taking off the bars.
hi, can you tell me the size of the socket you used to hold the tube to remove the bolt at the fork bottom end please?
13/32 or a sparkplug socket will fit
@@SongsFromTheSaddle thanks!!
@@SongsFromTheSaddle where did you even get a 13/32 socket?
@@mrtkimes I have a lot of sockets and spanners!
The correct size socket is a 13/16.
Another helpful video. Thank you. I like the way you say fork oil. Kinda sounds like f-ck all.
Im having issues with my rebuild. The bushing/nut at the bottom of the stanchions : one has a loose internal plastic sleeve,the other doesn't . I ordered a new nut, it has the sleeve, but wont slide over the damper. Internal diameter too small. Any ideas? And what purpose does the sleeve have?
That's a new one on me! I've not seen that before.
@@SongsFromTheSaddle i called my former boss at the Triumph shop, he has no idea either!
So just to remove and replace the fork oil, you'd take the top caps off and loosen the drain plugs?
I think that would work. I'd pump the forks to drive the oil out.