Don't Waste your money on Motorcycle Suspension
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 26. 08. 2024
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The best way I have found to center the front wheel was instead of shaking it I like to spin the front wheel and hit the front brake when itâs on the stand before I tighten the bolts on the forks but after I tighten the axle nut
I thought I was going to learn about suspension lol
Well..... If you didn't LEARN anything about THIS VITAL lesson of SUSPENTION, you need a good look at yourself.
If you didnât learn anything thatâs good. It means you knew this already. Plenty of people donât know this stuff. Even as easy as this. Peace
Obviously YOU are NOT PAYING ATTENTION. And you ride???
He's saying to do this before wasting money on solutions that do not solve the problem. Or, good preventive maintenance to avoid the issue.
agree don't use a hammer. but don't tighten it. install your brake caliper leave finer tight. push down on the front end to "line" everything back up and torque to spec.
Agree with ya on using a rubber mallet, one of my most used tools! The title is a little off though as I think a properly set up suspension, by an expert, is one of the best mods people can have done to their bikes. However, if ya don't know how to disassemble the front end, it probably won't make much of a difference, lol!
+NessedUpProductions you might want to or not watch one of my next videos about the actual suspension work on the dirt bike if it's worth the money really haha.. Still working on it. I wanna make sure I don't make to may people angry.. With it the the message gets across the right way..
NessedUpProductions
Expert =/= Professional
Professionals are only people who get paid doing a certain task, even if they've only done it for 10 minutes
What I like to do to straighten my forks is to tighten the clamping bolts down just until you feel a little resistance, then spin the front wheel and hit the front brake, then carefully without twisting the forks tighten and torque the clamps. The force of the front wheel stopping abruptly straightens them out perfectly.
Do you need to keep the front brake on as you tighten
the bolts? I guess if the rotor is still 'trued' this is also
a great way to alleviate any pad to rotor misalignment.
@@bikersoncall No, release the breaks! Then tighten th epoch bolts.
@@Steveman61 Thanks Steve..
Very good tip, man, thanks! I've noticed my front suspension being somewhat 'bindy', ever since the motorcycle shop took it apart. I will check the forks tomorrow! However, your title is a bit misleading. I do understand what you are trying to say. Better to have basic suspension set up right, than a crooked öhlins.
Adam Riemann said to look out for overly tight bolts on the triple trees, for the same reason. Ride on man!
+thealvaco haha, well the title is a little misleading but this k about it, if I would have named it how to install your front wheels properly obody would have Google that, and you would have never had the chance to check your wheels. Also if you think deep down is a waste of money on suspension if your front wheel is not installed properly
Great video, I was shocked at how many didn't know this. There is one thing I seen you do differently then I. It's always been known to me a setting the axle. How you wiggle it into place, we pull the bike off the stand and roll the bike forward and lock up the front brake. This makes the wheel run true. Do the same thing as you do, but before the "wiggle" tighten up your pinch bolts (just finger tight and the axle can barely move). Then hit the front brake "on the ground with forward momentum ".
First time I've seen this little trick done before on CZcams. Thanks for posting
If you leave the pinch bolts just a little loose (like a half turn or so from completely tight) and CAREFULLY roll around and lightly tap the front brake it will help align the front end. Then tighten the pinch bolts the rest of the way.
Cool advice!
lol i rode for like an hour with loose pinch bolts, remembered them just before bed that night went to see and they were still there lol.
Vornice đ
We all have our different way of doing things.
Here is my way with experience as a road and race bike mechanic.
Mount the wheel with out calipers.
Tighten the pinch bolts on the opposite site of your nut or bolt.
Tighten your nut or bolt to spec.
Release pinch bolts again.
Compress the fork "give it a good couple of pushes on the bars to compress it" to align the axle in the fork.
Tighten the pinch bolts to spec.
Mount the calipers and tighten to spec.
Pump up the brakes and you're ready to go.
Why i prefer to release the pinch bolts and then center the axle is because you then have all the preload on the bearings, spacer and internal spacer in your wheel and a low risk of the axle being misaligned in the fork mount.
And installing the caliper at the end makes the pads mount up the the position of the disc and not the disc and wheel to the position of the pads.
I'll stick to the way I do it. Text book style! Read the manual. Follow the directions. I've worked on Yamaha dirt bikes for 25 years
Trevor Jones exactly, i wonât own a bike if i canât get the original service manual, or at a minimum a Haynes or Chiltons
can you put a new top end in my yz450
Dont mean your any good at ot if your ego takes over which is what happens all the time with fuckwits
25yrs? And you drive a vw jetta? Get outta here bruh
Cool.
Lol, now I know why the manual
said to grease the axle before install,
I thought they meant it would just make the
install easier (ha ha) , it didn't dawn on me
that it needs to be able to move freely
in the yoke so as not to bind up the entire set-up.
i'll keep this in mind next time I work on my bike. I've always used metal hammers to take the axle out of the front and rear wheels for years. Never knew it made a problem like this. It's not huge but it's enough to cause a little extra wear and tear.
You are so right. Just because you paid a dealership doesn't mean it is done right.
People get offended very fast These days. Just because of a Little clickbait. The given Information in the actual Video helped me to learn something new about how to treat my bike, so it was worth every Minute of it.
I am goin to adjust this on my bike in the next few days. Thank you very much!
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
You might have saved 4000 bikers from doing it wrong ,good video.
You are correct. The front axle has spaces and if you pound it in due to rust or age, it will damage the fitting. I noticed this when I purchased a 20 year old bike. Luckily, I went on eBay and found a spare part. Sanding or removing all the oxidation helps but I noticed the most important facet is to keep the rust off and lube it often. If you cannot keep the rust off, make sure the lubing part is regular. Once it is damaged, the front disc brakes will begin to wobble or become damaged under heavy braking. However, rebuilding the shocks have minimal effect on the real problem. IT IS A SHAME HOW PEOPLE ABUSE SUCH GOOD MACHINES.
Maybe use a torque wrench too mate.
Great advice and vid. Just with the sand paper it is best used while lubricated with water or WD. You get a better finish with less effort.
You should grease the end you sanded , most grease the axel shaft , it's called a floating fork and compressing the front and a few times helps to set the floating fork in position, before tightening everything down. đ
I always apply a thin coat of lithium grease to the rods when replacing my tyres.
Stingercam21
Finally someone knows what they're doing! đ
Great explanation. Even rear wheel alignment contributes a proper rolling and suspension action. Many dont understand these basics and as they are mostly educated by the experts or amateur experts who generally have their own concepts. Your vdo should be helpful
Good point not to damage your axle shaft, but everything else about pulling the fork out of alignment is mute.
The bearing spacers won't allow the fork to pull in further than spacers allow. Now, if you loose a bearing spacer or put the wrong one, then it will either pull, or expand, the fork out of alignment; depending on the lack, or the extra thickness.
FJR Yamahas often have the axle bolt finger tight, and the steering collar not torqued correctly (head-set bearings loose).
Good point on that style of hammer - should never touch a motorcycle !!
My local shop went up in price . . . $90.00 to change a front tire, mount & balance, valve stem& shop towels - that's with me bringing in the tire. I do it myself now.
Hi, first nut by hand, then bolts, then nut with tool (light), with other side loose shake front, brake or press. Then other side bolts...
Excellent advice, thanks for making a video about this.
My KTM manual agrees with you. Tighten axle nut first then activate font brake and push down on suspension several times to align front fork, then tighten pinch bolts. My mountain bike fork asks me to tighten the axle, then the left pinch bolts, then press down on suspension several times, then tighten the right pinch bolts. Best to read manual. I always thought tightening the pinch bolts first was the best way to keep from pinching forks. I was wrong.
you should never ever ever ever have to hammer in an axle. a little grease goes along way on the axle. and if you feel you need to hammer it through something is wrong and miss aligned!
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
Good advice about not hammering the axle but the title is click baity
Kobayashi Maru Click bait = down vote
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
Kobayashi Maru &popp
+Vegas RoManiac And we are free to dislike you for it
In truth, it should be "don't waste your money on any motorcycle maintenance"...as in, don't bother paying a random dealership to do your work. As much as my local dealership has helped me out with valve shim swapping and some shop supplies, the expertise is *very* lacking among most people I talk to. Only the old school guys (read: old guys) know anything detailed about maintenance. The new guys just don't know how to fix anything, only replace, and even then (as this video demonstrates) sometimes they can't even do that right.
The sort of expertise you get from a small engine mechanic has just gone by the wayside -- my goodness, the empty look on their faces when I asked for Plastigage...
Helps if you spin the wheel and slam the brake on, that helps the axle and wheel settle in the right spot before you tighten the pinch bolts.
Unbelievable, what an expert, allen key and a torque wrench for the axle, then torque the pinch locks bolts up, my cruiser the axle is torqued to 65 nm and the pinch bolts at 27nm, if you just tighten by hand, you will have loose wheels and or strip over time bolts, what an expert. and to be sure always put a dab of lock tight on bolts
I usually leave the pinch bolts on the sliding side of the axle loose and just bounce the front suspension a few times then snug the bolts and torque em. never had an issue
That's what the manual says to do. Follow it and all good.
That's some great information. My project bike doesn't have this arrangement so my best shot is to measure everything precisely and machine it even better!
you tightened the pinch bolts on one side and then tightened the axle up on the other which completely defeats the purpose of what you just said. Once you tighten the pinch bolts then the axle can no longer move so when you tighten the axle up it just pulls the forks in anyway lmfao. You should have used the Allen key slot that is provided for that purpose on the other side.
David l finally someone noticed.
I have never even touched a Motor bike in my life either haha.
Your clearly didn't watch till the end. If you did your the one who has no idea what there talking about.
This comment caused me to break out my KTM manual and it says to tighten the axle nut first and then the pinch bolts.
Totally agree! He just made the same mistake by himself.... Another option would be to just loosen up the pinch bolt again after tightening the axle so that the forks go into their natural position, and tightening them again.
Lol nice framing hammer! I try to follow the manufacturer recommend install. I agree with the rubber mallet but you should not need that if the axel/ rod slides threw the
lower fork. I also like to torque every thing I touch. that's just me. good video.
Iâve heard of mechanics getting fired for using the wrong hammer. Thatâs a copper-hide jobby, or a rubber mallet. Ideally you wonât use a hammer on a wheel axle at all though. Properly cleaned and greased it should slide through with just a wiggle.
true
Went to look at the description and just saw a shit ton of links. Very helpful Yeah, still doesn't explain why you don't need to "waste money on good suspension". Correctly setup suspension is a very good upgrade and will greatly improve traction and feel of the bike.
Hey!
I used your video to replace my seals.
When I reassembled my forks, the suspensions was awful. Very stiff, dangerously so. So I disassembled everything and retorqued but I know my axle was not that free.
I will try this tomorrow!
Hope it solves and thank you!!
You should bounce the forks and brake test before tightening the clamping bolts on the right side of the bike.
Mostly very good advice. Don't know where you ride but in soggy England I'd use a bit of copper grease on the axle and threads.
Just be sure the disc pad, rotor are aligned and centered. Then lock it all down. The forks should center on the shaft bolt at that point... Be sure to grease the shaft with bearing grease that is water proof. We used Bel-Ray bearing grease to make sure the shaft does not seize in the hub...If it does seize. Then find the right size bolt head to fit the allen head end, double nut it. Then turn back and forth till it comes unstuck...
the nut on your through axle should have 2 torque specifications, the first one should be around 20ftlb. use a torque wrench, then tighten the pinch bolts on your fork then finish tightening the nut to the second torque specification usually around 65ftlb.
well shit... now I gotta go out and redo mine.
Nice vid man and a good point... you mostly do the same as what I do except at the end I undo the the first pinch bolts you tightened, bounce the forks with no brake, then retighten the pinch bolts. You are also correct that torque wrenches shouldn't be used on some things but I do like using them on wheel nuts.
The forks will never pull together and become misaligned when the axle is tightened because the dropouts on the forks will pull up on to the two spacers/dustcaps on each side of the hub, as long as the distance from the face of one spacer to the other is the same as the distance between centres on the lower triple clamp, it will be exactly the same every time and thr suspension will never bind..
the problem you may have if the axle doesn't pull all the way through is that as the bike is ridden, over jumps and through ruts and bumps and all, the axle may eventually work it's way all the way through the dropouts and the axle nut won't be tight on the dropout so you could potentially lose your axle nut. even so, as long as your pinch bolts are torqued..the axle will never fall out
factory specifies don't tighting it in. always check torque wrench.
2:18 This is the part I had to go back through
to figure out the problem he/you were having,
perfectly clear now.
I also like the humor about; ''being worked on by
a 16 year old'', haha, yeah, I remember my mentality
at 16, nothing wrong with being a kid, but at
that age your brain is definitely not fully
developed. lol.
Good advice. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Good tip , and I agree people in shop are not perfect! Thank you!
I needed to know this. Thank you for getting my attention with a great title and thumbnail.
Nice work. Seriously, this is the best video I've seen on this subject.
very good down to earth vid thanks, always good to learn a new tip for fork alignment
I am going through older videos that you posted and I am very happy that I do. Excellent video and advice
Awesome.....
Well lol, funny you say "don't waste your money on suspension" the previous owner of my bike had it taken to a suspension shop to have it setup for a AA rider, nice for him bad for me, I took it to its first event and it was fun but it felt like it was trying to eject my spine... So now I have to go back to GTR suspension and spend more money to have them play with the PDS rear and the dreaded 4cs forks
Great video mate
You are incorrect in tightening the right axle clamp and then tightening the axle bolt on the left.
You should use an axle key in the right hand end of the axle. Torque the axle. Align the forks by pushing down a couple of times on the steering stem nut. Then torque the axle clamps.
You installed the wheel incorrectly. You're supposed to torque the axle nut to manufacture recommended torque spec before doing the same with the pinch bolts. That's why the axle has a hex key hole on the end you sanded--so you can use a hex key (almost always either 17, 19, 22, or 24mm...there's a special combo tool for all of these on one 3/8 socket) to torque it first & properly align the front end. If you only get the axle nut hand tight, your forks will have camber instead of caster (reverse of the problem you described).
Additionally, the title makes absolutely no sense for the purpose of the video. If you were trying to be clever, maybe change it to "Don't waste money on suspension if you can't properly install a wheel". If you're trying to be sensible, maybe change it to "How an improperly installed wheel can affect suspension". I usually like your videos but this one is just replacing terrible advice with bad advice with a misleading title.
+samburger and there is those people that take things to the extreme, the ocd.. Haha your advice is not bad don't get me wrong, what I showed in the video it make complete sense on the side of the trail when you got a flat and all you have is the tools you carry, or you just picked up your bike from the dealer and you need to ride home. Think about it, you carry a torque wrench a the time with you. And 99 percent ok is good enough for me. You are a interesting fellow, keep them coming..
BTW the way I did it is in the yz manual for dummies, you know the one I got for the bike so if the Japs like it that way oh well..
+Vegas RoManiac That's fair, it is good advice to get by on the trail. And to be reasonable, most people probably wouldn't notice the tiny bit of camber on the forks from not torquing the nut completely before the pinch bolts (all forks flex a little on the trail anyway). Just had to chime in with the 'Japanese proper' way of doing it haha. Thanks for the response.
+samburger just subscribed to you.. So.. Keep the good advice coming
100K+ dirt miles on my XR650R and I don't use a torque wrench for axle bolts *shrug* Life is good, and like you said Vegas some people get OCD about torque specs I get that in every video too...it makes me laugh and if they feel better they should use them. Work on stuff enough you kinda know what is good.
This is way off bro đ but I agree the title sucks.
It's an axle, not "the rod" and ditch the rubber mallet (...just put it back in your tool box) and get a urethane dead blow hammer...
Now here I might be wrong, but all my friends who ride dirt bikes do all their own work...so for fun I ask how many guys actually work on their own bike vs taking it to a shop?
The only guys who should have their bikes worked on are pros and racers...at least that's my opinion. A good part of the fun of motocross is working on your bike so that you know it inside and out. And tuning your bike really helps your confidence, knowing everything is in good order before you launch that triple gap takes away any last hesitations.
100% agree with this
i like to work on my bike for fun and it also helps me feel better when im far from my home and something goes wrong ill know where to look and what to do
Titantramp4u
I have 2 dirt bikes, 3 quads, and 1 vintage street legal ( Yamaha Champ ) mini bike and do all my own work. Saves yourself $$$ and stress from some idiot doing it wrong!!
+45 rider #22
Another thing I hate about rookie mechanics is the use of wrong-sized spanners.
Now all my bolts are ruined!
So sad indeed.
true
Use a tiny bit of blue locltite on the axle nut and tighten with a torque wrench to spec.
Good advice, but the visuals were not good. For instance he was using a box wrench that didnât fit properly and he didnât tighten the axle or pinch bolts to spec with a torque wrench.
I'm not a tech by any means so this is a great help. thanks
3:39
Bike Trader Listing:
''Wifes bike, never off road, mostly
parking lot use, about 4 hours total on bike,
like new in every way.''
đ đ ââđđ
Good basic instruction video. I think it will help many riders who are new to doing their own work. May I share this with some groups I follow?
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
At first I thought the caption was wrong, but as you went along to talk about the forks binding from misalignment, I understood it to mean "...Suspension repair if this simple adjustment fixes it." For more than 50 years I have seen this happen when riders were not aware of the importance of alignment. "Just slam it in and tighten it until it cries." lol
sorry that i had to make this video a bit of a click bite , but it has important info and had to make the people somehow click on it! a lot of people appreciated the info, and thank you for being reasonable and not calling me a Dumb Ass like most of the email i got because of this video !
i like it. fork seals are a pain in the ass to do pop
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
3:03
Thats what she says to me every night
lol
"It should come out on the other side"
I hear a spring knocking sound when I hold the brake and compress the forks. I have another bike of the same model it never made this sound. I replaces the seals and oil. The internals looked mint. The only think "unusual" was one spring was 1/16" shorter than the other. They are Yamaha WR250Rs. Can you give me any advice about what's wrong and what to do to fix it?
wow! point to be noted! very informative bro. thanx!
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
Kiitos paljon hyvistÀ neuvoista.
Thanks for the tip(s) bro!
Excellent video and advice, thanks
honda cr125r and crf450r forks have a different set up when installing the wheel and axle
Great vid. I learned a lot, and I'm a seasoned rider. Title misled me, but the content was excellent.
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
Title is a little mis leading lol. You should spend the money to get your forks serviced regularly. And your suspension should get set up to your weight, height, and riding conditions. Well worth the money. Other then tires the suspension is one of the most important factors on those bikes. Over about 60% of pro riders chose suspension as their one up grade to a stock bike. (Trans world motocross interview)
I learnt something very useful that I was not expecting.
Awesome
I have Honda Dio 2017 to 18 model front and back shocker gets out of it and how to modify Honda livo bike
Your supposed to put grease on the axle shaft before you put it back together. Also why not replace that worn out front tire before you put it back together? Owner's manual is a true MX riders best friend.
" Two bikes chrome pipes that's how I roll "
nice and a pretty decent video bro thank u for such a good video loved it
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
I have never seen anyone using a waffle hammer for that but a regular hammer yes I have good advice
Is there any need to put grease on the front axle?
Few people too rough. Great vid.
I appreciate what this gentleman id trying to show, but there are spacers in the wheel hub, bearings, and between the bearings and fork legs that align the fork tubes. What he is talking about is not possible. Yes a hammer can damage the axle tube and cause it not to enter the clamp area, but then the nut opposite just stops less "threaded on" on the opposite side of the tube. You cannot misalign fork tubes unless you don't put your spacers in or don't put them in the right place. Nevertheless, don't hammer your axle tubes.
What are the plastics called on the fork
I've bought Aprilia sr150 motorard in India and it has stiff suspension. while my ride is for highways primarily, there are few patches in city and highways which may be troublesome with stiff suspension. so is stiff suspension in a way good or bad? how do I get it sightly tuned to handle bumps smoothly and yet be good for high-speed stability. please clarify
Good stuff mannnnn
man,you're so right !!! about the wheel positiong AND ESPECIALLY ABOUT THE 16 YEAR OLD BRATT IN THE GARRAGE THAT DOESN'T GIVE A SHIT ABOUT YOUR BIKE and does the job :)))))) and it's like that everywhere ....
There's a fork alignment tool you can get.
good advise
You must tight the bolt on the proper kg/nm as the service manual says.
Or your bike will explode
No you don't have to! ... if you have great experience ;-)
lukaÄenko 7 Most of those clamping bolts torque to 8nm... Just barely firm is the right amount, I haven't set those bolts with a torque wrench in years! ;-)
you know that most bikes have axle/wheel spacers, so you physically can't tighten the axle nut to the point where it pulls the forks together?as for the video title, spending money on suspension for your bike is probably THE best money you could ever spend on a bike.
buying after market parts or having OEM parts set up for you is really important. get your sag set with your gear on, get your forks revolved, resprung and play with oil volumes, and same with your rear shock.
I'm going to have to do a video on how to tune suspension. You can do a lot with springs or spacers and playing with valving shims.
You never did, right?
This helped me soo mutch!! Thank uđđœ
now i see, i think it's the reason why my oil seals are wearing and leaking. thanks
That YZ/WF has had a hard life....He's right of course, but I was expecting a bit more.....
really enjoyed the viedo. super helpful
Hey mate. Do you bother greasing the axle??
Great video, I haven't thought this before this deeply..
thanks for watching, sorry the video was a bit of a click bait but i wanted to get my message across, and it seems that it worked. I do get my share of hate mail because of it but this is youtube , and we are free to say whatever we want !
The 16 year oldâs who put your shock together with a hammer đš gave you a đ
I know this is an older video, but Vegas, you know better! This is partially incorrect! Only the non brake side floats free before pinching the bolts. The way you are showing it to pinch the non brake side, then tighten the axle nut is wrong! you are doing exact thing you just told us not to do? The correct way is to tighten the axle nut by pinching the non brake side, tighten nut, pinch brake side, THEN RELEASE the non brake side pinch bolts, bounce the forks up and down (or whichever method you prefer) to let the non brake side find it's center and finally pinch the non brake side bolts. Am I wrong? Change my mind!
You should find a great independent shop that you trust to work on your bike. I have a OCD German BMW & Mercedes Benz GWagen factory expert trained mechanic in Santa Fe, NM.
He does excellent work, have taken 4 bikes to him, am totally happy. When I need to pay for work, I get what I pay for...
I like my suspension as it is out of the box.. Haha free99
Video should be called, "don't waste your money on a torque wrench"
đđ»
That's a good tip