Holley 4150 Carburetor Tuning! Accelerator pump / discharge nozzles / pump cams / power valve
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- čas přidán 4. 05. 2020
- This is more of a continuation of my first Holley 4150 tuning video that I published years ago. I have learned a couple of things since then, so here is my newest video on the Holley carburetor. The Accelerator Pump Cams, Discharge Nozzles, Power valve, and Accelerator Pump are commonly overlooked when tuning a Holley Carb.
For Holley carburetor setup I recommend this video. • Holley carburetor tuni... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great information. I was planning on putting a wide band in my car for this very reason. I have always been very good at tuning my carbs with a vacuum gauge and by reading the plugs but figured a wide band would help even more.
Do it. I’m old school too. But now It’s so much easier to tune because you are looking at actual measurements your motor wants or needs.
Love the vid....very informative. The wide band kit is crucial. You can actually see what’s going on.
Nice work, thank you for posting this. Very helpful.
Do a video on timing please. I enjoy watching your videos keep em coming 😎
Man I wish we were neighbours! Just tune all day long! Gr8 video with real data tx.. busy dialing in my 850 brawler dp on a near or equal 500hp 383 when I'm done. Cranking psi is 220! She's ripping but needs more work plus I welded in a bung for the wideband gotta hook it up permanently now ;) tx gr8 vids
thank you. obviously there were some people that could read plugs and make cars go fast in the 70s but its 2020. and you pointed out some faults in reading plugs that i never even thought about. in addition to the fact I consider reading plugs kind of subjective. in the near future i will be hooking up a wideband to tune a carburetor. thanks for making this video. also this probably is most important on tuning a street car because race cars tend to be focused on WOT only, in my opinion.
Gas has alot of oxygen in it these days because of alcohol in it. Plug readings are not what it used to be
This is a fantastic video. Thanks for the information.
Good INFO On The Set UP/ Tune UP Thank You !
Great info, great mullet hat!
A lot of off idle stumbles and lean spots can be attributable to misadjusted throttle blades and idle mixture screws.
Well I just started looking around I'm building another 460 with an 850 double bumper. I had a lot of problems on my last car and it turns out it's because I didn't have a return line. Holly said I did not need one! Anyway appreciate the video and I will do the O2 wide band although in my case I have dual side pipes. They should make it interesting and more expensive of course!
Awesome video 🙌🏼🤘🏼
Well done video. I liked it and subscribed
🚗🐎🔧💪👊🔴💯🇺🇲
Great video. Could you give me a parts list for the fuel lines, fuel pressure gauge, and linkage parts that you use? Thanks so much!
Great info! Thanks.
Question, can you use the AFR with an Evac system? Where would u put the sensor in relation to the evac tube in the exhaust? Great Video, thanks!
Thanks for the tips
Very helpful but how do you choose accelerator pump cam? I get a bog right off idle if I get on it. It'll spit n slam choke shut. I have to get out remove airfilter n physically knock open choke plate!
Love watching ur videos man got a question for you I have a 88 s10 with sbc was wondering if you could tune an clean my 1405 holly carburetor an ifso how much an availability
Howsit T, really enjoyed your video. May I ask what wideband you are using? I am looking to buy one. I really am impressed with the responsiveness of yours, and I like the analogue a bit better as opposed to the digital ones.
Hell yea man! Appreciate the video, can u do us a video on adjusting vacuum secondaries. I have a Road demon with the vaccuum screw in the diaphragm. Never know where I need to be with it. I have it 1.5 turns out from bottom so far
I’m not sure what the screw is also because I do not own a vacuum secondary to test. But get the spring kit and put the weakest spring you can in the secondary diaphragm. The weaker the spring the sooner they will open. spring kit part # DEM-120083
Nice new 3-D intro!!!
My man karl the LT1 👑!
What size tires and what gears do you have/use on your s10
What do you think about using a wide band with a cam with a tight LSA
Question...I have a lean spike at WOT to 16.8 then my AFR gauge goes to 13.4. How can I get rid of the lean spike? Thanks
What compression and plug heat range you running? My son's double pumper likes to foul NGK 7s out at idle. Idle AFR is 13.5-14 AFR
I'm 12 to 1 on 93 pump. 13.5 to14.5 is a pretty good range if you do a lot of street driving on high compression motors. I’m running the NGK 7s also. You got to keep a cold plug a little more lean while cruising around on the street to keep them from fouling out. As long as it’s a good 12.5 AFR wide open you should be ok with conservative timing on a hot street motor.
Have 600holley my manifold have the timed vacum port on back of the manifold so what do i do bout the one that on side of carb were it can be hooked up do i block it off
Where a good reference when using a wide band guage to figure out what's consider lean or rich?
I need some help man. I got a 355 small block big cam and it eats. But I got a 650 quick fuel carb. I step on the gas and like i think it floods the crap out of it then it finally picks up after about a second and runs fine. Is there anything I can do to fix that
Hey buddy I've been struggling with a 302 problem I'm having slam the pedal to the floor falls on his face gets up and runs like a bat out of hell too much squirter or too much Cam 650 double pumper hope you reply back been watching you a long time
What wideband gauge is that? I like that better than the digital ones, the digital ones jump around too much.
AutiMeter 4479
How do you like that Proform annular main body?
Good stuff
What is your overall impression of the auto meter afr gauge. I installed an aem that worked for 2 minutes. Super bummed. I was looking at the auto meter, but I don't want to get burned again.
Location is Key race gas will kill them in a weekend. czcams.com/video/f3d8Jn_venA/video.html
Great video, although curious why you went with an aftermarket main body but not quick fuel metering blocks? The quick fuel metering blocks also have different size sets of Jets behind the power valve called power valve channel restrictors, that can be adjusted to feed the main circuit under wide open throttle. This way you can have properly set of primary and secondary for mid-range cruising and and still make adjustments for wide open throttle along with how you have your secondaries set. Or maybe I am being too technical. I'm years old quick fuel metering blocks word around back then but I love the extra adjustments when at the track.
I have them in my 950 I did have to play around with them in my brawler. I never ordered different blocks with that 750 because it always worked pretty good.
how are you with cross rams.
Great videos. It seems you've done a lot of Holley tuning... Have you ever messed with emulsion bleeds..? Emulsion bleed tuning seems to be the 'black magic' topic of Holley tuning, no one seems to explain it, meaning, hole location and size, and how each location (in general) will affect the fuel curve. It'd be nice to find a video that explains the emulsion jet tuning in-depth, I can't find anything on the topic. It's be especially nice because a lot of the new Holley performance/race carbs are coming with the 5 hole blocks (Ultra XP, Track Warrior, etc.) but that amount of tuning isn't really necessary for a street car and just causes issues. It's difficult to find advise on what to do, or how to modify/jet those blocks for a street car. I've scoured the internet to find recommendations and have actually spoken to Holley tech's about it, no one seems to have much advise. I spoke to Holley just the other day about it, the tech didn't know much, but I did get some spec's for the different carbs (750/850 Ultra XP, Track Warrior) which seem to use the same 5 hole blocks, Holley was able to let me know that they install the same bleed jet stack in all of them, which didn't surprise me... The stack from bottom to top is .029, blank, .029, .029, .029. I was told by a guy that knows Holley's pretty well to go with this stack for the street - blank, .029, blank, .029, blank, so basically a 2 hole system. Going to say a 2-hole system, I would imagine will change the HSB's on the top also..? Thoughts? Recommendations..?
What gauge are you using to measure lean or rich?
have a new 750 holly on a 350 with a small 288 460 cam.mostlry breaking it in but very black sutty plugs.the primarys are 72 pump nozzle 0.031 power vavle 6.5.why am i to rich.thanks TJ
where do you hook the meter at?
That things cool man and im a blue oval guy for life
That truck runs strong bro what's the engine in that? First gen small chevy stroker?
Nice innfo.Does this tuning tips works on a Quick Fuel 750 pv without vacum? I have one on mye 390 fe slightly modified
Yes. QF uses Holley DP everything. even the circuit layouts are the same, just more tunable on the QuickFuel stuff
I ran a 780 dualline carb on my '68 440 motor..can u explain to me the cause and affect of my powervalve blowing out..
All chrysler products are notoriously famous for that and it usually stems from a backfire through the carburetor.
What tran are you running?
i feel the extra pump shot is just a crutch for not using the proper sized power valve and PVC. I am assuming your primary jet size is lean for your personal tune and the power valve circuit is modified to compensate so now it would just be all about timing of the PV to get the enrichment. I would like to see the same test done with your 25"s back in and a quicker PV installed, assuming your PVC are sized properly. like your vids,
a lot of old school guys like to run square on jets and squirters I've never had good results running that way and never run a power valve because they like to start fires when they blow. but my best results have been on big pumps front squirter one step smaller in front (28) and a (31) in rear and my jets are also different with smaller size in front (72) and rear (82) on my 800 dp on 455 pont.
I have never blown a PV in new carburetors with the check valve.If you're staggering the jets with no powervalve I would be concerned about some cylinders running lean.
@@TPVPRO When I have tried running square its my 60ft times are slower and feels like a fat stumble without a real stumble and won't pull the wheels much less carry them. I have open plenum intake so lean cylinder issues have never shown up in cylinder temps. The power valve issues I've seen on everyone else's (because I've never ran them) come's after a single or multiple back fire through the carb while testing/tuning new parts or adding timing or just a ignition part failure. I also run a tow truck and can tell you every car/truck that I have picked up after a fire had a Holley on it. and the ones at the track without nitrous had PV fail from back fire.
@@TPVPRO you're lucky. I've blown several power valves in 4160s with the check ball. I think ethanol is wrecking them. It only happens if I leave one sit for a few years.
@@TPVPRO I don't think you know how it works if you think the front jets run the front cylinders. Its about coming in off idle or lower RPM.
@@alfredodirks3537 Do whatever you want. I have never had a issues with a powervalve. All the N2o guys I have ever talked to square jets.
how do you think the carb primary supplies fuel to the engine below 1900 RPM when there is no fuel coming from the boosters.. the accelerator pump discharge nozzle can't handle it alone. its called the Low speed circuit. it supplies fuel at idle past the end of the idle mixture needles to come out the round idle discharge ports below the throttle blades.. with the throttle just barely opened.. thru about 2000 RPM.. the exposure of the idle transition slot allows manifold vacuum to pull fuel out of the slot progressively.. the amount of fuel is limited by the IDLE FEED RESTRICTION in the metering block. if the engine is bigger than 355 Cubic inches you may want to think about going to a larger idle feed restriction.. 347 thru 355 engines really need a 0.032" idle feed restriction.. get up thru 427 to 435 cubic inch engines and you need a 0.035 .. you won't believe in part throttle response from your carb.. getting this right.. may be expensive.. test your air fuel ratio at steady engine speeds starting at 700, 900, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2000, 2300, 2500 is basicly where the primary mains take completely over.. you can see if your mains are properly tuned between 2500 RPMS and 3800 RPMS..
Awesome information, thats what I did IFR are key at off idle !!!!!!
I had to use .38 ifr on my setup, now for an excellent cruise I had to lean out the idle air bleeds. Excellent off idle and cruises at 15-16 afr
@@frankdatank7751 how many cubic inches is your engine? idle air bleeds adjust the curve. here is a diagram to help i.imgur.com/Xh7pmcm.jpg
Good info I just entered #carblife picked up a 65 fastback with a built 351w and a Berry Grant 750 that's leaking need to put a rebuild kit to start with 🐎🚗🔧💪👊🔴💯🇺🇲
thanks mutch
Basic carb setup video, this covers everything else. czcams.com/video/xSrB5ba97IY/video.html
Good video, but you completely forgot about the idle feed restrictors, which are very important off Idle.
Most of these guys are only interested in wide open drag racing performance. Street tuning is totally alien to them. Main jets, squirter, power valve and cam, are about all most of these type presentations are about.
Hi, I have a 735 cfm Holley on a 428 SCJ and I can not get it to run right. The carb is a manufactured carb and is like new. What is does is when I speed it up and then let off the idle stays high for a few seconds then drops to normal idle. I have changed jets and power valves Jets power valves are correct. Floats are set correct also. What would cause this problem?
Probably not carb related it's most likely the distributor advance going for full advance back to idle advance.
@@TPVPRO It is carb related. If I put a 750 cfm Holley I have on it runs fine but the 750 isn't the carb that came on the car.
@@ajw6715 timing light while its happening ?
lord have mercy!!!
Which wide band and gauge are u using?
nvm you answered that question already
A customer of mine came to me about restoring his nova and make a little more power with his 010 original 350. My engine builder I usually go to punched it and put in a mild cam. But from the looks of it, my builder installed the cheapest GD Holley he could find. Usual part #'s aren't in the common places. And for some reason can't decode the numbers on it. I run a pro systems carb and have ran quick fuel carbs In the past so I'm not completely new to Holley based carburetors. For some stupid reason, I cannot for the life of me get this "china" Holley to fall into a happy zone! Fouls plugs after awhile, originally after getting car together, the secondaries weren't opening up and just falling on its face (vacuum leak) and worked out that. It's always fired right up and ran decent at idle. Just a bit fat. Now suddenly the float fuel level is wayyy high and will not lower even with adjustment. I believe that would be a leaky o ring in metering block? Getting dead holes, wet plugs and worried it's going to hurt the engine. My detailer isn't experienced at all with carbureted injection at all even tho he's 45 years old and will start it up and back it out cold then shut it off after running 30 seconds. I know 100% that's not healthy at all and just doesn't understand why I express not to rev or run the engine without warning it up. Car isn't quite done yet is why we have it still and we park it inside. I'm to the point of just getting an Edelbrock for it because the customer will never figure out how to tune a Holley as hes retired and not car savvy. Should I just replace it with a more street friendly carb or get a decent Holley?
How did u get your carb to run in the 14s did u have to play with the idle feed restrictors. The closest I can get mine is around 12.9 to 13.2 at 35 miles and around 2100 rpm .
You must have jets too big in the front or the powervalve is opening too soon.
@@TPVPRO Thanks for replying back to me. I have a 850 AED carburetor that came with 85 primary jet and 94 secondary jet. Primary idle bleeds are .070 and high speed bleeds are .031 shooter front and back are .037.
I changed the Prim jets to 83 and Sec jets to 92. I changed the idle feed restrictors from .035 to .030 I changed the Prim idle bleeds to .078 and set the idle mixture screws 2.5 turns out and the power valve is 2.5 motor only makes 5.5 inches of vacuum. And the front shooter is a .040 not too sure if I am heading in the right direction any info will help thanks.
@@user-fl3cl5nd3x What is your displacement and what RPM do you turn to.
@@TPVPRO Its a 496 bbc with 720 hp and 640 foot pounds of torque. It revs to 6200 rpm, It runs on 91 pump gas.
I'm actually at an 11 or 12 spread on my carb can't quite remember. You can block all the PVs square the jets till you have a happy 12.5 AFR @ WOT pulls. Put the 2.5 PV in the front only keep the back blocked off. Start with 8 sizes smaller front only and keep taking jet out till you back @ 12.5 WOT. You may just have too much jet in the front. Just be sure to check plugs and make sure you have no lean looking cylinders.
I followed your advice in got one, i'm working on getting better at idle I meant 13.5 , in when I get on it and goes down to 10.5 any advice
At wot? At the initial shot?
Idle AFR is tricky, If it's 13.5 on startup cold and 10.5 that sounds about right. You adjust the idle air screws when its warm shoot for 13.5-14 AFR. Carbs are just hard to star when cold that's why most like FI.
TPV Productions us men like carbs lol! Plus I can’t afford a trick fuel injection set up 😂
@@mattperkins7038 It's hard to beat a $500 tunable set up
Yes at wide open throttle it's 10.5, when it's warmed up it'll stay around 13.8 -13.5 at idle, so if it's at10.5 at open throttle do I jet down the secondarys,
Link to the analog wideband ?
AutoMeter 4479
Should explain, some acc. Pump screws are hollow to allow more fuel flow.
good information my guy. by any chance do you have an instagram ?
I miss my S10
What main body are you running
Proform 750
People get how a power valve works backwards a lot. High vacuum actually holds it closed and when your vacuum drops to below the number specified on the power valve the spring on it opens it to enrich the mixture. Cams with lot of overlap and poor vacuum tend to have issues cuz they sometimes don't even make enough vacuum to close it at idle and wonder why the engine loads up real bad and idles like chit. A 6.5 power valve is stock issue and the number on the power valve has nothing to do with the amount of fuel it flows that is predetermined by circuits in the carb the number on the power valve is what vacuum it opens at. A 6.5 takes 6.5 inches, or "bar" (barometric pressure) of vacuum or higher to hold it closed. My LS1 has a sloppy stage II cam with lots of overlap for a choppy idle and is right at the edge of not being able to hold the power valve closed at idle and gave me a very inconsistent and erratic idle so i eliminated my primary power valve and jetted up 8 pts. I could have probably put a 4.0 PV in it but it runs great without the power valve so long as you jet up substantially to compensate killing the power valve "enrichment " circuit
What do you suggest for a low vacuum engine then? I only have about 8 inches of vac. Should I be running a 4.5 or lower? Or should I try going the other way, up to a 7.5?
You never explained your method on idle air screws and why you don't use a vacuum gauge from 1st video
Hey now: time to open a rent-a-mullet shop.
Just from watching your afr readings ..... I feel you need to lean the idle circuits go up on the mains and down on the squirters. Power valve needs to be 4.5 its only there for idle. A holley adds fuel in steps, if one step is to lean or rich your have to over compensate to get the afr back.
Power Valve does not effect idle. I have opened the PV enrichment holes a little to get a 14-15.5 AFR at cruise with smaller jets for better drivability and gas mileage. If I go up on the main jets it will be fat at WOT.
@@TPVPROWhat I should have said was idling around (cruising)lol. When your in fuel econo mod the power valve is closed and boosters are not drawing any fuel. Your driving around on the Slots and idle circuits and front pump squirter.
Yeah I get all that but you also can't trust the wideband completely. Cams with a lot of duration will read lean but when you are putting around may still load up the plugs after a while. You also have to pull the plugs after they have been in for a while to figure out how lean you need to run that motor for cruise. I run a cold plug for a 12.0 compression 93 pump gas motor so that doesn't help. But it keeps detonation down when the temp is hot out.
Next video: "Best way to tune A/F: throw carb in trash, install Holley Super Sniper!"
Lol 😆 I'm too cheap for that maybe after 50k subscribers.
Five years from now, Sniper computer fried - throw in trash (like the old Pro-jection EFI), take Holley carb off shelf in garage, put in a gasket kit and enjoy.
Wrong. They didn't have widebands back then. It was all experience in carb tuning
Love my proform main bodys. Ive had way better results with proform over holley
Awesome stuff man. Check out my 331 stroked 84 ranger on my channel.
🚗🔧💪👊🔴💯🇺🇲
Power valve on a Rochester carburetor don't blow out when the engine backfires just saying
Holley has a check valve to prevent this also.
You are correct on the holley's version of PV selection, doesnt work very well. From what i've read elsewhere, you take your cruising vacuum reading, divide that in half, then add two. My example, i cruise 1900rpm(60mph), my vacuum is 15hg, i divide that in half, then add two, that puts me with a 9.5hg power valve. This has worked great for me so far with my holley 650vacsec carb, ZZ4 crate engine, 700r4 and 3.73 gearing, all wrapped up in a '79 malibu 2dr coupe. Im currently going by plug reading at the moment and not pulling any WOT tests since i dont have a afr meter installed yet, hopefully soon, but driveability feels good right now, so no complaints.
Your statement about the power valve is incorrect saying you needed a 4.5 if your crazing at 16 inches a vacuum half of 16 is 8 so your car would not call for a 4.5
I'm just repeating what Holley said not my statement. I6 is the "AFR" not the vacuum reading.
Shit I want to be friends, need help with my 355 u no
Glorified toilet bowl
A mullet hat is no replacement for the dedication of years of no hair cuts.... Speaking from experience...
That mullet is weak bro, I look like Cousin IT ....
It is compared to the real thing.
Wide band .. man I was way off
I thought wide band was a thong for big girls
Bro.. 😆😂
@@TPVPRO .. so listen sir
If I have a big duration onto my cam shaft and low vacuum at idle that will raise hell with keeping the power valve closed to right ? Iv got a fat condition at all throttle position
Not all 4150s are double pumpers
problem solver get fuel injection lol
Those aren't dog leg nozzles they are tube style extended nozzles. The BOOSTERS are DOWNleg boosters. Your mixing up your slang but that's ok i like your video
Dude you're wiring is atrocious! Clean that up!
Secret #1: Throw it out and get an Edelbrock.