I made Precision Bench Dogs
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- čas přidán 8. 10. 2020
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I needed custom bench dogs to use for workpiece positioning on my CNC router. I decided to make them myself out of Alumin(i)um and POM.
Here's the link to the next video: • How to acheive perfect...
Enjoy the video! - Jak na to + styl
Well I can say one thing about this video. Your parents brought you up correctly.
You clean behind your ears.
To make the pop sound a bit louder, you could tighten the tolerance between the hole and peg by juuuust a touch, by applying a thin and consistent coating.
DIYPerks did something similar to achieve a very thin low-friction water cushion between a cylindrical magnet and a glass tube.
Something like chromate conversion will add about 1um (radius). bluing will add about 25um. With electroplating you could get a wide variety of thicknesses 10um+ depending on time
"It plops, kind of." Love it and love the video. You’re very easy to understand and articulate - making it easier to learn your steps.
hahahaha the hacksaw gag was so good
@Marius Hornberger Don't try that parting trick on steel. If the parting blade doesn't have the same pressure on the left and right edge it will not cut straight and you get a tapered wall. At some point you'll wedge the tool in or deflect it enough to stall the lathe or break the insert. I have very little luck with that style of parting tool myself, and each time an insert breaks it usually destroys the holder as well. Small lathes are notorious for being bad at parting because they are not rigid enough. You can try mounting the parting tool directly on the cross slide (without the compound or top slide depending on how you call it) to get a lot more rigidity. Some people also make small fixed toolposts that hold the parting tool upside down and mount it behind the the workpiece so they don't have to remove the compound. It also means you have to run the lathe spindle in reverse and you don't see what you're doing.
One probable reason why you stuck an insert in Aluminum is lack of lubrication, as it will cold weld on most tools and gum up your cutting edge making it rub instead of cut. Rubbing = heat = expansion and you get stuck. There are cutting fluids especially made for Aluminum but even WD-40 will make it somewhat better... and also make a lot of mess :)
Also, when parting you continuously add lubricant to keep the cut wet and tool cold unlike normal operations where you normally just smear it on. It's hard to say from video how fast you run the spindle, but parting operations will typically be made at slower RPM then normal turning.
It would be interesting to make a small hole through to let air out and see if they are easier to put in/out.
You could also make this help reduce the amount of operations (obviously adding a through hole adds one, but for a functional reason), add an external chamfer mid parting, then you only need a small chamfer on the hole on the parted side.
Glad to see some videos again.
😮 every metal lathe video I've seen has just focused solely on the cutting head, none of the setup behind it. Really interesting, great stuff!
thanks!
Thank you for the "Back and Forth" parting technique! Best, @BranchAndFoundry
Nice to see you working at the metallathe!
Great video, recently saw your small dust collector video and i thought it was a great design so i decided to mkae it for my self. Keep up the great work
I think I've seen a few of your videos in my recommended before (as with this one). About time I actually subscribe!
Great content Marius!
Nice work!
Quite a story for such a simple piece.
Nice job! You can cut the part to the correct lenght with the paring tool. Make a channel, chanfer, measure the lenght, adjust and cut. If your paring tool has a small angle on the cutting edge, right side looking from above, it will cut the part leaving a tinny barb. When making lots of parts it saves time.
A young friend made some aluminum ones for me and would not let me pay him. I needed a few more and hated to prevail on him so I made them on my wood lathe. They work surprisingly well. Yours are much nicer, keep up the good work.
Great work I love your videos including the lathe! It would be really cool if you did a video on doing a nice thin anodizing on the aluminum ones, maybe even make them black like the POM ones!
Perfect work!
Make your dogs just under 12mm height, using 12mm thick jigs you can attach parts together with locating dowels onto the top of the dogs and machine right through the top board.
Plops are the best!
very nice video! thanks for sharing
Good to see you're not completly 'Wedded to the Wood' like some makers. You make the kind of video's I like to watch and learn from. Your new table saw is now on my 'dream' shopping list. =D
You should watch This Old Tony's video on adjusting the lathe in a way you don't need to use this 'between the lines' measurement
Marius, I made a 3D printed plane stop... its worked really well, expected it to snap but not yet! HNC 47.82 arrives in a week... can't wait!
@@buddenjoejoe5549 Arrived and is a solidly built thing! Eding CNC is not the easiest of programmes to understand when English, as nearly all videos how it works are in German or Dutch so hopefully that's not an issue for you. Finding it very difficult to set the boundaries of the machine and stop it trying to 'jog' past its limits.
@@buddenjoejoe5549 Fusion 360 is my default for modeling anything up at the moment.
Geh beim abstechen mit der Drehzahl runter auf 400, dann fliegt dir weder das Teil um die Ohren noch verspult es den Meisel oder die Platte. Beim anfasen auf der Drehbank wurde ich auch so auf 500 oder so gehen, ist besser für die Platte. Als kleiner Tipp vom Metaller 😉 ansonsten klasser wie immer. Weiter so !
Danke für die Tipps
Very nice! You could totally sell these! I bet there would be lots of demand from people like me who don't do any metalwork.
colorful cross slide you have :-) Nice change vs. the usual Werkzeugmaschinengrün....
Wieder mal top Video ;)
Kleiner Tipp mach dir für die Klemmbacken vom Amerikaner Kupfer Auflager.
Damit bekommst du keine Abdrücke im Werkstück und kannst fester klemmen.
Und bau dir noch einen Schutz Scheibe fürs Arbeiten ohne Kamera das du genug Kühlmittel verwenden kannst und du dir nicht alles vollsaust.
Eine Nebel Düse hilft auch schon.
Auf lange Sicht dankt es dir dein Werkzeug es bleibt viel länger scharf und exakt.
You should send them in to get anodized, most anodizing places will do small parts like that for very cheap if you say you dont care about color and let them just throw it into the next electrolysis bath they run.
In this environment, would this be mainly for appearance or are there still corrosion concerns?
@@thehangardesigns appearance, anodized finish is lovely. Anodizing is great for corrosion but I imagine that Marius's CNC will be a pretty mild environment
Happy how they "turned out"... nettes Wortspiel... ;) :)
You probably know this by now, but to prevent a single chip you need either a faster feed rate or bigger depth of cut.
Since my cheap digital calipers randomly started to lie to me with + - 5. something mm i dont trust digital measuring anymore. I switched to mechanical dial calipers. They work great and cant slip.
now you got a lathe....! jezz! now you have superpowers!
Beim Drehen von Aluminium wurde mir immer beigebracht (vom Maschienenbau Betrieb) Spiritus zu verwenden um Aufbauschneiden zu verhindern. Einfach mit Hilfe einer Spritzflasche vor allem während des Abstechens über dem Werkzeug zuführen (nicht sparen), schneidet sich viel besser und die Werkzeuge halten länger!
Guter Tipp grundsätzlich gilt immer möglichst viel kühlen und schmieren.
Nur wenn man filmt muss man da leider Abstriche machen.
Just a small tip from my side. If you make fitments, try turning the last 3 cuts with the same depth of cut. The reason is that the insert will always have the same cutting pressure, so your diameter will get more precise and easier to get to 0 or the fitment you want.
Thanks for the great tip. I'll try next time
you do however run ino the risk of ruining you surface finish, if the cutter happen to slide over the surface instead of cutting
Hey Marius, wenn du Schneidöl, oder besser noch Kühlschmierstoff beim abstechen nutzt, dann kannst du problemlos die Teile auf einmal abstechen ohne Aufbauschneidenbildung und somit der Gefahr dass sich der Abstechmeißel verklemmt 😉
Nice work. I would make M6 or simular in the end or thrue, and make a good champfer. then you have a precision and easy hold also :)
I thought about threading, but decided against it, because I could think of any situation where I'd use them
Can you review the band saw? Please? :)
Very nice work. We posted your video on our homemade tools forum this week :)
cool, can you share a link?
@@MariusHornberger I would, but YT will not publish a comment if I put a link in it.
The caliper is not a precision instrument and one shall not rely too much on the digits that are on the right hand side. If you want to ensure the 1/100, then you need a micrometer. Digital ones are very expensive and not fun to use. One can buy very good Mitutoyo micrometer second hand on eBay or alike for 20 euros!
This is a homeshop, its not very precise anyway :)
And yet for the job at hand, probably more than accurate enough!
Good grief, it's plenty accurate. They're going into a piece of wood. Nice job Marius!
I've heard this so many times before. I may be just a hobby machinist but every person I ever known that has used calipers have gotten perfectly precision parts using them. I guess if I were making parts for SpaceX or NASA, I would break out the micrometer. Sometimes do for certain work. Usually on the lathe. A decent set of calipers used correctly will give you perfectly fine measurements .
Marius is there anything that you cannot do? It would seem to me that whatever project that you decide to tackle, with any kind of tool or machine, with whatever problems that you encounter, you just take everything in your stride.
I am very jealous of your talent and skills, you make everything that you do very easy, when in fact they are not easy.
This video made me appreciate clickspring more.
Second? I like the idea of prototyping with the 3d printer
Nice! 👍
I've just received a linked v-belt for my lathe (photos in my instagram)
You should use metal foil, or sheet to cover the part. (usually covering the jaws to not scratch the part)
the foil of a cut open softdrink can works well
pun intended: very satisfied with how they turned out ....
cooooooooooool
Nice ear
I was just about to trash that hacksaw 😂
Did you learn to use the lathe by yourself?
Hello Marius! completely off topic from this video but did you ever change out the fence on the kitty planer? mine is rather flimsy.
No, I have no problems with my fence
5:28 - Noice!
Is there a way to cut wood with the metal lathe? Like remember the video where you turned the Ironwood/Ekke bowl and your wood working tools dulled quickly, do you think the metal lathe (if you had it then) would have been much better?
It wouldn't have been better, because you can't really make the free hand cuts that you can make on a wood lathe
You can totally do that. The fine control wouldnt be as good, since a metal lathe works in 2 axis, while by hand you can make nice curves, of course.
Using the Insert tooling would be the way to go. You can also cut metal with HSS (The same stuff as the woodturning tools are made of), but the geometry is vastly different.
HSS tools for the metal lathe would probably still work better than the woodturning tools, because of the geometry.
In short: If you can work out making the curves on a metal lathe, it would indeed be "easier", or rather less of a hassle with sharpening tools.
You don't want to cut wood on metal working equipment. Woodworking equipment is kept dry (dry film lubrication, no oil or grease) to keep sawdust from sticking to it. metalworking equipment is supposed to be kept well oiled to both lubricate it and prevent rust (especially if you use coolant). The sawdust will be attracted to the oil, soak it up, swell and jam up your lead screws and gears etc. You really should not have metal working machines in the same room as wood working without well thought out dust control and extraction to keep it away from them. For cheap junk hobbyist metalworking toys this may not be true, but for real metalworking machinery, keep the wood away unless you want to spend many hours cleaning the machine.
@@MariusHornberger Actually you can, just put a long piece if bar in the toolholder and use it as a toolrest. But I wouldn't do it unless in dire need as wood dust will get everywhere and stick to oil on the ways. Not good for metal working tools.
Is the other video, about the hole grid, not up yet?
next week
Witch lathe do u buy?
Thanks. This was fun. However, FYI, the second video isn't showing up. The thumbnail in the video isn't active, there's no link in the description, and no video in your recent releases.
It's for next week. There's a video link showing up in the outtakes. I only screwed up the length at the end and can only let it appear in the outtakes
I want a metal lathe now
Hey Marius,
schön gemacht! Schau doch mal auf Kleinanzeigen nach 'ner Bügelmessschraube, gerade die 0-25er gibt's ab und an schon mal für 5 - 10 Euro. Das wird dir die Arbeit sehr erleichtern 😉
Hmm, eigentlich hab ich ja eine Bügelmessschraube. Hab nur nicht dran gedacht die zu verwenden
I will make a new one...
For a moment a thought you gonna use hacksaw to cut 20mm alu rod :D
Who Let The Dogs Out?
Awesome material Marius, as usual. Precision bench dogs. A fantastic concept, and one worthy of pursuing with the skill, care, and passion you show in all your videos. Still a little sad you didn't cut the aluminium with the hacksaw, but I'll get over it.
I'm an old-timer. And I grew up, in the machining world, with the "thou" - as in "one thousandth of an inch". A part that was flat, or round, or true to to within a "thou" or two was generally pretty good, or at least well within tolerance. You can't see a "thou", but you can feel it.
Is there an equivalent metric benchmark? A thousandth of a millimetre? 0.001mm? That seems, to me, to be an unrealistic standard, given current machining tech. A thousandth of a centimetre (0.01 mm) seems like a reasonable standard to aim for.
0.01 mm are colloqually called "hundertstel", 0.1 mm are "zehntel", and of course 0.001 mm are "tausendstel", and all of them are used whenever appropriate or necessary, as are 10 mm (centimeter), 100mm (dezimeter) and 1000mm (meter)
since your cnc surface was faced with the router, couldn't you bring the dogs to length with the router itself? that would make them exactly the same height, although with a different surface finish.
that wouldn't be pracital, since facing the off on the lathe took about 5 min with setup and makes long shavings. The router would take longer and make a much bigger mess
Plus, you can't rely on the holes in the MDF to hold the stock to ensure enough stiffness for cutting aluminum.
Speaking of accuracy: Is your measuring equipment calibrated?
Sorry, I have to deal with calibration too much at work lately...
no, none of it.
Of course not, who calibrates his equipment if you don't have to? wasn't meant to be taken seriously.
Bist du zufrieden mit der Drehmaschine? Die steht bei mir zur Zeit in der engeren Auswahl
Ja, sehr zufrieden. Ich vermiss aber manchmal einen Planvorschub. Da würd ich beim nächsten Mal drauf schauen
@@MariusHornberger super danke. Darf man fragen was du mal gelernt hast?
Ich hab Maschinenbau studiert
I thought you were gonna use the hacksaw
I panicked a bit when Marius said he was going to eyeball the chamfer.
although precision on the dogs is nice, the holes in the wood you will be putting them in will not be accurate after the first few times you use them I'm afraid. they will be out of round at best. Ah, keep the vids coming Marius. love 'em!
Stupid youtube subscription feed. This did NOT show up! Grrrr. I think it was the same with last video. You're in my "view instantly even if house is on fire" category... 😄
I don't get it why you don't have more views
Viel arbeit für die Pöppel... Hast doch nen wunderbaren 3D Drucker. Ist nach nach paar Testdrucks ebenfalls präzise.
aber nicht so präzise, vor allem nicht so rund
Funny how in 1st look, they looked like some weird shotgun slug. Like those who sent to ( i'm gonna bucher that channel's name since i'm in phone. and dont remember how to write that) Taoffladermous.
Did you notice a smell when you cut the POM rod?
No, no smell at all
Oh yeah, the "fishy" smell :(
He used pretty sharp cutters, maybe it didn't heat up the POM or shave micro particles.
It does turn very nicely though, unlike PE and it's nasty elastic chips that Just Won't Break
When will you do other joint videos with your boyfriend Kris?
Somehow, I expected these to be made out of steel, then hardened and polished to a mirror finish and then blued.
Would be nicer optical,
If you mess up the toolpath the aluminum gets cut without a problem.
The hardend metal would destroy the mill an the spindle if you are unlucky.
Jeroen van Montfort you been watching clickspring too much 😂 👍🏴
😃👍🏻👊🏻
In one of Dan Gelbart's precision-machining videos, czcams.com/video/a_E-tYRxBkU/video.html he mentions adding chamfered grooves to the tips of tight-inserting fits. Perhaps interesting for you to ease insertion of the dogs?
Time to use a micrometer instead of a calipers.
I have some, but don't know why I didn't use them
ich hab genau die gleiche rattige maschine, ein sau klump. kauf dir ne bügelmessschraube um 25 euro und um 30 ne uhr und um 40 nen halter. DANN kannst auf n hunderstel drehen die billig schieblehre bescheisst dich um 4 hunderstel...
It's Aluminimum. Alu-mi-ni-mum.
Zwinkersmiley.
Depends on which side if the Atlantic you learned on.
yeah lets add extra letters to the dictionaries definition of the word and pretend that's how it was supposed to be
@@bmxscape - Aubacke.
Sorry for the plain English.
@@mairmatt noium problemium. letsium justium addium extraiuim lettersium toium everyium wordium tooium!
@@bmxscape Weißt was, Kerle: Du hast recht. Und ich meine Ruhe. Und auch der Marius. Weil wir beide kommen mit Alu prima klar. Habe die Ehre, danke, ciao.
If you push to hard on the caliper size's will very nice video ,new zealand
I have that bandsaw and have not Been able to get it last more than a few times, althogh I ”drove it in”, waste of money if you dont work with it professionelly
Ein Kommentar
it plops.
Firs... oh that's silly. Good video.
You hadn’t even watched it yet.
@@TheLindsay720 that's why the whole "First" thing is silly. It was a good video though.
is the motor on the lathe a dc motor?
* nevermind i see the model number next to the chuck; that explains the terrible speed control
if you want realy god grip just buy a knurling tool. They are cheap and easy to (rändel)- ger/eng language joke :D
and a machinist trick ive learned in my apprenticeship - if ur just 0.01mm away, just let it pass over again. espacialy if you have some weird messurements like 4:26. couid just happend because the Al just bended