Easy lost PLA metal casting │ How to turn a 3d print into metal │ ASMR
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- Welcome to Robinson Foundry. In this video I will be using the lost PLA shell method to turn a 3d print into an awesome solid aluminum casting. I started by printing the model on my 3d printer and then coated it with joint compound. I then buried the shell in sand and sodium silicate and poured in the molten aluminum. This vaporized the PLA and leaving behind an awesome casting.
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joint compound to act at the fine-detail-saver is such an excellent trick
I never would have thought of it on my own.
Is there a spray on version?
Idk but what is joint compound exactly?😅
@@theofficialvalvychannel5689 I also like to know.
I have tried a couple different types, but the powder that you mix with water that contains plaster of Paris is the best. A lot of the pre mixed varieties have polymers in the mix (usually some sort of vinyl) and they don't work as well. I'm not sure if it's the vinyl, or some other ingredient, but the pre mixed stuff had tiny pits and dimples in the surface finish.
I used to do some lost foam castings. I would use joint compound thinned with water to about like milk. and spray on several coats letting them dry between
coats. Then I would pour a base layer of sand into my bucket place my part in and pour plat sand around the part. After that I would tap the bucket with a mallet to pack the sand once it was packed down pour my metal. Worked great. I made tons of parts and no water glass.
"Hey, Seth. You know what happened to my car rims?"
"... No?"
Wheels*
If you do this same model again, I would suggest that you cast it upside down. The gate can be much smaller than the feeder/riser so you could have a much smaller defect on the top of the head.
In fact this is preferable. You want controlled gradual flow, not sloshing, and this is achieved by constricting the flow before it reaches the model
Yeah, the lost detail across the top of the head was pretty tragic.
5:40 You lost a lot of metal off the side of the bucket, there. A small funnel of sand around the entry point would help direct the metal back into the mold.
czcams.com/video/WCnIJu69aV0/video.html
I really appreciate you showing and telling what materials you use for people like me unwilling to bite the bullet on suspend a slurry... thank u, and awesome content
4:31 The difference between cans and wheels is that wheeled aluminum has a higher silicon content, which lowers the melting point of the alloy and improves the fluidity of the molten metal.
That’s right. Big difference between the two. I love “Wheelium”.
@@robinson-foundry Oh, wheely?
Is there some method to determine if a wheel is aluminum, magnesium or some kind of alloy?
@@nitcat1 Wheels are usually casted.
@@robinson-foundry Wheeluminum?
Absolutely amazing how much detail you captured. Even the 3D printed layer lines and the filament Wiggly's on the overhang under the chin. Excellent work. Thanks for sharing.
Unreal... I've been looking into methods for doing this and this is by far the most effective I've seen yet! Hope it works for jewelry casting
From what I've seen on other youtube videos, most jewelry casters use resin 3d printers and plaster molds for high quality pieces.
A few years ago, Grant Thompson from TKOR made a video where he did this, but with styrofoam models. I've always juggled around the idea of doing that, but with 3D prints, and it looks like your did it first and perfected the idea with the layer of plaster to get all the intricate details.
Excellent work! It looks great!!!!
Congrats this project is much easier than previus projects
3d print needed support under chin or massive cooling. That cast is awesome.
Thanks, yes it is. Something a little different also.
Hands down this is authoritatively the best tutorial I’ve been able to find on this
Nice to see you have all the correct safety gear and proper tools to safely handle molten metal.
I was into painting Warhammer miniatures around 30 years ago. Watching this gave me an overwhelming urge to paint it. Nice
These have such a "How it's Made" vibe to them, it's great.
My guess is you were a fan of that show growing up (as I was) and you took some mental notes and made use of them for your videos.
Great videos. : )
excellent to see ancient "lost wax" method brought to the 3D printer era
this shares nothing with lost wax casting, it's not even close to correct
Nicely done. I'm impressed. I think this was the simplest approach I've seen....since 3DTopo showed his lost PLA process eight years ago.
Thanks for sharing, I literally just bought the materials to try this!
That’s awesome! I hope it works out for you.
You should post a video of your first go at it!
did it work?
@@robinson-foundry it is "normal" sand? not special for casting? the sand in the home improvement stores?
@@pedroperenne The sand is regular sand. It's the sodium silicate that makes the sand harden up, with exposure to CO2. Google 'sodium silicate casting'. It's amazing stuff. SV Seeker has some cool videos using SS. czcams.com/video/qPnSb3yzytE/video.html
You rlly make an before an after in the 3D metal casting method with this. You're my heroe
The best & easiest way to make 3d metal products 👏🏼👍🏼
For anyone who cares. "MOST" Cast aluminum is a high silicon based aluminum alloy, which lower the melting point and helps make it flow much easier. This is what makes it ideal for casting. You can buy silicon from eBay, crush it, and add to your molten aluminum to make your own allow that flows easy
I can't believe it even retained the overhang stringy thingies, hahaha
Excellent video
Great work! I like this molding method, I will have to try it. One note: don't load your crucible cold like that. The aluminum expands as it heats and it's a great way to crack your crucible. Throw a little in the bottom and let the rest preheat on the furnace vent, add once you get a molten heel on the bottom.
Great to know it works without needing a lengthy burn out to remove the PLA.
Thanks for the tip on the concrete sealer and joint compound!!
Dry wall sealer I believe. Concrete sealer is an entirely different product, an epoxy or some other 2 part resin I believe, which if used here will produce very bad results and also probably some fumes you don't want to be breathing.
Very impressive. Another version of this is being used with powdered steels. The print gets placed in a steel tube (cannister). The outside gets filled with 1085 and the inside with 15n20 or 1085 with 5% nickel. Its heated to forging temperature and compressed in a hydraulic press. The pla is organic and burns off as carbon. Some very detailed mosaic patterns for knife blades etc are being created. Its very new and likely the next big thing in mosaic pattern welded steel (damascus). Thought it might interest you.
this is the most effective lost wax casting video I have ever seen.
In the foundry I worked at, we used pour basins over top of the sprue so that a constant flow of metal goes into the mold without any air. It also reduces spillage.
Absolutely stunning....that was glorious
Best casting video to date!
Incredible detail!
Using the angle iron to protect from vent splatter is genius. I have done something similar, but I'll be damned, the angle iron is easy and does a GREAT job. Thanks a bunch!
Really digging the mayan/Aztec prints
You do some impressive work and your techniques are great. Just one thing your wearing lace up shoes without shields surprises me with all the safety you practice. Keep up the good work and making your videos.
Good to see that pie case replaced with something a little more sturdy!
That’s an awesome technique, great job 👏🏼
you asked to tell what we thinking... freaking amazing, good job
The best method I've seen.
Great job! Amazing quality.
Wow... Mind blown. I definitely need to try this method. Keep up the awesome videos, incredibly helpful!!! :)
Excellent. Turned out great.
Mechanical engineer from forge foundry background yes you can reuse most metal sand etc in the industry we reuse it after filtering and grinding again to ensure no big parts and magnets to remove from ferrous metals etc good luck if it feels and looks good enough to use it probably is not hard 🤞✌️
I'm impressed that burning out the PLA core before pouring wasn't required. Do you think that any other "support" filaments like the water soluble PVA would burn out even cleaner? Or was PLA just perfectly suited to the application?
At lasttttt a video without burn out oven great job
Interesting method. The result is great!
I have picked up alot of old aluminum water pumps and other engine parts, I wonder since those are cast how well they would work..
Thought the PLA would blow up .... but didn't .... Awesome!!! Thank You
As long as it’s vented sufficiently it works!
Good job. The finished piece has lots of detail. I would like one in cast iron plated with nickel.
Definitely given me H.R. Giger vibes👌🏾🔥🔥🔥🔥 sick job, love it!!
As if I didn't already have enough of an addiction printing in PLA... :P
This was super awesome man, thanks for sharing!!!
You’re welcome, it’s a fun hobby! Thanks!
This is so awesome, great work, thank you for sharing!
Beautiful!!
wow incredible detail in the result. excellent work
Wow, the detail on the bottom of the chin is very impressive. Very cool!!!
A fine addition to your collection
Thanks!
8:18 I like houw the process captures the detail of the drooping filament in the overhanging chin.
Great piece. Very fun pours.
Excellent job. Who would have thought that you don’t need to melt out the PLA first.
Quite educational!
Fantastic results well done. Must try this myself. Cheers J
Will and Skill.
That's pretty cool is a Geiger statue. He always did make some good drawings.
That looks awesome!
Super cool! I'd love to see you do this with a resin printer which would get you even better detail. There are a lot of resins out there specifically for doing lost wax style casting
theres also wax filament for fdm 3d printers.
never used it myself because i heard its a PITA to work with though.
... Can I ask... Is there a reason you seem to have abandoned this method to pursue standard lost PLA with a burn-out kiln? I am very curious to use this method because I don't have a burn out kiln, and for that reason have had many failures.
Yea I have been trying too and can't get good results. I have a feeling it's to do with venting. But I am also trying to cast much smaller things. Or it's my sand.
Should take that to the antique road show. Maybe get half a million bucks
Great process
Very nice technique, thanks for sharing
You can print most things with a couple extra walls and no infill don’t know how it would do with the metal but you said the least amt of infill so just trying to help or expand the ideas in your arsenal :) great video though gonna have to try it !!
MUY BUENO E INSTRUCTIVO SALUDOS DESDE ARGENTINA.
Looking great
Very detailed and interesting now im going to try this, thanks for the video
i've been coating my foams in watered down drywall mud but that joint compund looks perfect. i'll be trying that for sure. cheers. If you put a tin can around your sprue, you save yourself from making a giant mess lol. but the video just wouldnt be as exciting haha
Joint compound IS watered down drywall mud..
Amazing Craftsmanship 👍🏻👍👍🏽
Amazing stuff!
I'm working on casting an intake plenum for a car.. i was thinking on using plaster instead of sand for surface finish.. now i wonder what the result would be if i submerge the print into very liquid plaster a few times allowing to dry in-between, kind of like they do with wax..
Thanks, I will try this 0 infill method, looks Easter than melting plaster mold pla in furnace.
Have you ever measured the sand to concrete sealer ratio?
Whatan extreme intresting way to cast. I have to give this a try myself
found out about your channel today and i cant stop watching! amazing work
Looks great 👍
Perfect!
That’s incredible! I assume that it would be relatively simple to cast fairly accurate t slots with this method. Do you think it would work?
Amazing job!!
Nicely done!
Pretty sweet looking bong 👌🏼
I cant wait to some day try something like this
Used to apply dry wall tape joint and fill the join in the plasterboard
A great informative tutorial. Well done - as usual.
Thank you very much!
Amazing!!
Hi there, what kind of sand were you using? It looked like beach sand. Do you think there’s be any benefits to using green sand (olivine), or Petrabond? I can easily source pool filter sand (quartz).
Nice. And using Vase mode in the slicer, good idea!!
This is badass!
Some say screwdriver others say chisel, to each their own. Great work!
Some of us use a flat bladed screwdriver filed down to a chisel edge. Like a teeny tiny cold chisel.
It was very helpful!
I don't know if the same materials are available in Japan, but
I would like to try my hand at making complex products using this method.😀
Well done thank you
Man good job this thing lools great. Really getting into this stuff. Wanting to make a wood and epoxy bed with some cast skulls on either post.
Very cool! Can you thin or do multiple coats of the joint compound to thicken the shell? Maybe joint compound, sprinkle with sand, dry, repeat 2-3x times and build up a really thick shell?
Would it make more sense to use the PLA model to create a cast that you could make a wax version with, then you could reuse the PLA model, instead of having to print it again if you made a mistake?
Smart.
That came out grate nice piece man