I Tried Using NEW Textured Build Plates
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- Welcome back to another fun project video. In this video I'm showing you what happens when I try 3d printing using the new PEY/PEO textured build plates. The video starts out with an unboxing, then I show some design work in the computer, and it finished with the final prints and settings. Chapters at the bottom in case you only want to watch a portion of the video. Hope you guys enjoy :)
Thank you guys so much for watching, we finally made it past 6800 subscribers and are now on the road to 10,000! It would really mean a lot to me if you subscribed and joined me on my 3d printing journey.
My Etsy Shop - macymakes3d.etsy.com
Website - macymakes3d.com/
Buy me a coffee - www.buymeacoffee.com/macymakes3d
Instagram - / macymakes3d
Affiliate Links:
HueForge Affiliate Link - shop.thehueforge.com/?aff=10
Vectorizer.ai - vectorizer.ai/?atk=eeusplo73i
Build Plates in the video:
Double sided plate - amzn.to/3SRQWNY
Carbon PEO/PEI - amzn.to/3ONyViD
Star Sparkle PEY/PEI - amzn.to/42LsLpf
Circle sparkles PEY/PEI - amzn.to/42VRask
Flaky Sparkle PEY - amzn.to/49uOS60
For behind the scenes 3d print farm content:
Vlog 1: • Running a Small 3d Pri...
Vlog 2: • I Ordered 50 Rolls of ...
Vlog 3: • I Bought ANOTHER Bambu...
Vlog 4: • 3d Print Farm Day in t...
Vlog 5: • I Bought the NEW Bambu...
Chapters:
Intro 0:00
Unboxing 0:10
Install on printer 2:17
Design 3:34
Prints 14:15
Final Results 18:19
Slicer Settings 21:05
Outro 24:07 - Věda a technologie
The trick for these plates, 70c , slow first layers, and no glue 😉
Correct. Don't use glue. I print with "Textured PEI Plate" and normal speed.
Yeah I learned glue wasn’t the answer really fast haha. I never tried 70c since 50c was working, but I will just to see how it compares!
@@macymakes3d Just to add, washing with dawn dish soap helps a lot with adhesion on the ones I have.
I also wonder how much you’d benefit from partially or fully enclosing your printers to keep the temps more stable around the print.
I slow down my first layer to 20 and it print well. Also make sure plate is super clean.
Well done! These plates are fun to experiment with. The secret to bed adhesion is just Dawn dish soap. For glass, G10, these, or PEI. Once you feel it grip under your fingers theough the soap, rinse until it squeaks and you've got it. After that, you don't need to wipe it off again unless you touch the plate. Dust should be wiped off with a dry towel or cloth. Once it starts having adhesion issues (dozens of prints in my experience) Dawn again.
They really do use it on oil spills. It's not just marketing lol.
I really like the way you communicate your enthusiasm for your work and especially for your success. I wish you and your family only the best for all of your steps in the future !!
incredible video, thanks for sharing.
Love all the tricks to get the bookmarks made. Love this video!
I love you vids ❤
Awesome info! I love how you using those plates to enhance your product. You've given my great ideas for my print farm. Thank you.
I've used it for over 50 3d prints on the same plate, still transfers the holographic like it did the first one!
Went through similar challenges early on with my plates too. What I have found works best for me is PEI plate settings and bumping temp to 70. Glue stick worked for me but it messes up the pattern, I recently got Bambu liquid glue and it has been amazing. It goes on super thin and even and doesn't mess up the pattern.
These are dope, thanks for sharing
Awesome, I've been wanting some new build plates, perfect timing
I have the same build plates. I had adhesion issues initially on my X1C, until I found a post that the guy put the "QR" code stickers on his build plates and it fixed it. After doing that, I have never had adhesion issues since...
Thanks for your tutorial, now PEY plate works great, I would like to know if you have a presets or the best way to print PETG with P1P. Regards from Spain.
It wouldn’t let me give the video more than one thumbs up, so I’ll just leave these extra ones here : 👍👍👍👍👍
First time I have watched you. And you are fantastic
Great work thanks. All the very best Jono 👌.
I use unscented hair spray on my PEI sheets. It wont leave residue on the bottom of the print and it works fairly well.
That’s what i do too. It’s been working great for a few months now. I also wipe it down with alcohol after each print.
hey! loved your channel! new sub!
the tutorial videos are soo good!!!
Gonna have to go buy some of these.
Love the videos!
They work really great I have these too and I love them.. it's very cool to add different textures on your first layers
Yes! So much fun!
but aren't they more of a smooth finish with a pattern than a textured finish like the gold plate?
No really there is real pattern printed on the first layer, the "rainbow" ones gives a very smooth first line with a diffraction of the light resulting a rainbow effect, the carbon ones really gives a smooth carbon pattern. I use them because in print a lot of keyrings and it gives my print a really nice finish... The kind of finish nobody believes it's printed by me
I use 65c for everything. But with these plates you don’t want to use glue as it will keep the pattern from transferring. For larger prints use a big brim, but clean with soap and then alcohol seems to do well.
You are a ROCKSTAR for sharing your settings! I have been struggling with these plates to the point that I don't even try anymore. Can't wait to give it a shot again. Subscribed!
Awesome glad I could help! A lot of the comments here have been saying 70c for the build plate so if 50 doesn’t work, try 70!
Thank you! Will report back.@@macymakes3d
I'm 5 minutes into your video and feel compelled to say don't use glue as it will totally impact the transference. The plastic has to "melt" into the design for it to transfer, and glue will block that. To account for no glue, use higher bed heat. I run mine at 65c for PLA and 70-80c for PETG. I spray down the sheets after every use with IPA, and use a microfiber cloth to wipe it down to make sure there is 0 finger grease on them. Again a quick spray and wipe after every use.
I have all the ones you have. The circles seem to be the most dramatic and subsequently the most fun to use (for me). The tiny tiny stars rarely show up unless I am printing a solid sheet of black or something like that.
I'm so excited for you because they make all my prints next level when I want to wow people with a gift.
Correction - I don't have the plate you have that has the flecks on it. I have one that has tiny tiny stars that barely show up. I now want to get the one with the flecks you have. 🙂
I also use the "Smooth PEI Plate / High Temp Plate" with the higher temps I mentioned above. The only time I have an issue is when I print a very big item that has sharp corners to it, those can try to lift a little but that's where a brim helps.
I like your idea of a higher temp after the first layer though. I haven't tried that and will try that next. I think at that point the type of plate defined doesn't matter because it's the temps you define through your filament that matter the most.
You are killing it BTW. I love watching your videos.
Thank you 😊 these plates gave me quite the run around but we got there in the end haha. These plates are pretty addicting, I’ll definitely be buying more as they come out!
@@macymakes3d My wallet is constantly hurting - If it's not new colors of filament rolls, it's fancy plates like these. 😁
great video. A hint for getting to stick. The sheen is from micro scratches in the plate. If you use glue it can fill the micro scratches. The hint is put on glue stick, then use a damp cloth to spread out. OK for it to be damp while heating, but dry by print squirting plastic.
That’s great - thanks for the rundown on the tweaks you had to make. Interesting that a lower initial temperature got you better bed adhesion. Running without the fans makes sense, since it gets you better layer adhesion, but you’d have problems with drooping bridges. Good to keep in mind, since I’ll probably get these plates at some point as well.
Once I tried 50 and it worked I never tried 70 like a lot of people are saying. I read about 50c in a Reddit post lol. Maybe 70 would work better, I’ll try it soon and see. But yes, turning off cooling helped a ton
Hi Macy, I just wanted to take a moment to express my admiration for your incredible work with 3D printing. Your dedication and talent truly shine through in everything you do. You're absolutely awesome! I've been particularly impressed by your PEY profile for PLA filament. It's been incredibly helpful for my projects. I was wondering if you happen to have a similar profile for PETG? I'd greatly appreciate any insights or recommendations you might have. Looking forward to hearing from you!
Thanks, that was cool!
I've got the one with the small stars/sparkle last month that says it's for X1/P1 (257mm), for my A1, and it perfect in size, and it works very nice. I guess it makes sense since the xy dimensions of these printer's bed are the same. Since the texture is a lot more softer/detailed, it's also easier to damage the plate (don't ask how I know), so no more scrapers or fingers on it, or grabbing the print while still warm.
For me it worked by bumping the filament temp by +5°C, use smooth/high temp plate settings (65°C all layers), and a slow 30mm/s speed for the first layer. With these settings is sticking too well (no glue), and I even see the shape of the last print on the newer one if I don't wash the plate after each print, and let it warm for a bit to even out.
It's a bit of work with them but worth it for some of the projects.
Hi Macy, dumb question(s) here. If you had it to do all over again for the first time, what would you change as far as how you do business? What I mean is, if you consider the steps you took and what you have learned about etsy, 3D printing, 3D printers, software tools, etc, would you have done things differently or even in a different order? Would you have done additional preparation and why? Was it simply trial and error that led you to the business model you have today?
You're such a nerd, Macy, I love it 😂
Love your videos. Just started the vid. I'm sure it's good. Thumbs up ;)
Thank you so much for watching 😊
Cool I saw these build plates and just assumed they where just flashy accessories, had no idea it would actually transfer the pattern to the prints. In fact thought the claims of giving the prints a pattern was just snake oil marketing. Will have to give them more thought now.
Hey.... Where are you? Love your content. Keep it coming.
I wonder if you could use the holo film and and iron to 'apply' the patter to the top of the print as well.
turned out awesome. i think itd be cool to add a loop to your freebies so they can be "functional". customers can make them into keychains if they want. also maybe some "good day" freebies as thats easier to rep than "thank you" keychains hahah.
you've already gotten all the tips I'd suggest, I love these plates. needs to be at least 60 build plate all layers, cranked down aux cooling, no cooling for first several layers. it doesn't look equally good on all filaments, and if multicolor favor dark colors for the predominant. I never use an adhesive with these, creates more problems. I use high heat smooth plate for the setting. I haven't needed to change speed at all.
Good job. The texture plates are pretty neat. Will it be an up charge in the store?
I haven’t decided yet. It’s not any more difficult than the ones I’m currently selling but it does make them look a lot nicer so we’ll see if that allows me to ask a little higher for them. I’ll update in a future video once I list them!
I was wondering what the big deal was with these plates; I'm amazed the effect transfers so well... I'll have to get me a couple of these.
I gave up on glue sticks ages ago, and switched to spray-on glue. Seconds to apply, no mess, and works very well: the prints stick firmly, but pop right off once the plate cools. High strength hair spray also works, but be careful about the formulation: some use acetone, and not all build plates take kindly to that.
will give you a tip. windex is the best. no glues. slow down the machine on the first print layer by 50%
I was told to try leaving it on the textured build plate setting and I had success with this and no glue
Aqua Net hairspray works best for me. Clean with 99 IPA, dry, then very light even spray of Aqua Net. Works great for me.
Mine worked after washing the plates with dish soap + generic/esun pla setting + textured PEI Plate in the slicer (P1S)
This!
The only thing that worked for me with this plates is the washing with sponge and a dish soap... nothing else really worked until i washed them and they stick very well now!
How about using the High Temp plate setting? That's what I use on these plates and it works perfectly.
i have some of these and cannot work out why the little bit at the back of the build plate thet the nozzle cleans its self on is a different height compared to the original bambu plate
Perhaps use the Smooth plate option instead of the Cool one especially as you're using fairly normal bed temps anyway. Those were new plates fresh out of the packaging so maybe having some manufacturing additives still on their surface. Personally I find a good clean with detergent and warm water the best for cleaning build plates which helps for 1st layer adhesion. Even using some iso I have found is not enough but a good wash really help. Those PEY plates look quite delicate so probably just need a gentle wash to avoid scratches that will show on your print.
How did the glue affect the pattern transfers? I would think it would nullify the pattern transfer somewhat.
You might want to try Bambu Studios Lay on Face (F) option rather than flip objects in the X axis. It's more versatile if you have an odd angled face on a print you want on your nice build plates.
Been using one of these plates for a while now and they certainly are not great for sticking. Although cleaning it then spraying it with 3d lac i've got great issues with no warping/curling at the corners.
I'm by no means affiliated to 3d lac but it is honestly the absolute best for adhesion.
But also (I hope you know that) you can trace images in illustrator to convert bitmaps into vectors. So if you already have an illustrator or corel there is no point in using thirdparty apps, especially paid ones.
After I remembered to do an auto bed leveling my filament stuck much better
I used to use Elmer's purple on my X1 Carbon but got sick of having to wash the prints, I now use 3D LAC and it works much better especially on the Ideaformer plates.
Are there any colour filaments that the holographic textures don't work well on?
They work a lot better on darker colors. It still transfers to light colors but they don’t pop like the dark colors do.
hi ! i don't know if you figured how to make it stick on the plate , but i have something that may help, if you choose texture plat on the slicer when you're using those plats
:) ( i havent finished the video .. so i don't know if the problem is solved yet haha)
I bought some of these. They're good in that prints stick and the quality of the surface is good, but the edges are rough and instantly scratched the magnetic surface of my print bed when I tried to slide it into place, something I've done 100's of times with Bambu beds without issue. They really need to smooth the edges. Also, I've to this day never needed to use glue. Just 99.9% isopropyl alcohol is enough, even on these build plates.
Follow up question also would you mind posting a file even if it's just a simple primitive or whatever with those settings so we can just import them automatically without having to transfer them through screenshots... Thanks so much for all that you do.
I’m wondering what’s life span of those build plates, I recently got x1c and brought few those plates just curious.
wash with dishwashing soap first and probably adhesion solved, no need for glue
Anyone say to use hair spray yet? Its my go to for all bed adhesion issues. Aqua Net hairspray, the purple can. I spray that on plate before any print Im worried about bed adhesion on.
What AMS risers are you using on your printers? Those look great.
AMS Riser - makerworld.com/en/models/16530#profileId-15347
That should be the link. I show the build and installation in my A1 video/vlog 5. I really like them a lot
Regarding the blue creeping into the white, look for a mod on printables called "Bambu Lab X1/P1 nozzle wiper with A1 Brush" (I'd link it, but it's not working) - I think that's your blue filament that isn't being wiped cleanly from the nozzle.
Awesome thank you I’ll look into it! I always hate when little bits like that ruin my prints.
I also recommend replacing the wiper from stock. I did the "Better Wipe for Bambu Lab X1C..." on Makerworld and it cut my build plate poop drags by at least 80%
You might try "Smooth PEI Plate/High Temp Plate", I have had good luck with these patterned plates using stock Generic PLA settings (I am running Inland or Ovature), no glue (DO use glue on PETG or it is never coming off), alcohol clean between prints, bed leveling on when switching plates. Smooth plates just don't stick as well as Textured with PLA but I find this generally all I need. One big difference, however, is I have enclosed P1S so the fan & other settings might be much more critical on an open P1P
Yeah I quickly found out glue wasn’t the answer haha just a wipe down with alcohol before each print and then the adjusted settings seemed to be the magic sauce 👌🏼
On your bookmark, I believe if you have it assembled in TinkerCAD and export each piece while assembled, then in Studio, you select all the pieces to import, it will ask if you want to import as 1 object w/ multiple parts, pick yes, then it will already be assembled in Studio, and then you just click the part on the left menu and change the color. When I tried to put separate pieces together in Studio, the layers didn't sit right for some reason.....building it in TinkerCAD was a little easier, for me any way.
how do u make the template in adobe illustrator?
I have found using the nano polymer adhesive from Amazon works great for sticking just about everything on a build plate. It is more expensive than a glue stick but it doesn't leave the residue behind.
Couldn't you just use the live trace tool in illustrator to vectorize a simple pattern like that?
yes they do
Where do you buy these?
Links are in the description but here’s a link to one of them amzn.to/49nr4AU
What kind of Witch craft is this?
not going to lie I didn't know the rainbow color transferred as well. Im buying these plates
Only issue I've had with these holo plates, you cannot clean the area of the print after. The image will not be there after. Long term the image does not stay
Good to know it doesn’t stay permanently!
I love these build plates, but I really want to launch them out the Fu(£!nG window at the same time. Ill try it now and the extruder will print so low I'm sure it is going to scratch my desk, ill stop the print, change NO settings hit go again and the nozzle will be about 1/2 a mile above the build plate. Any ideas? Works no problem with all my stock build plates.
So it's just holographic foil glued to piece of aluminium. Or its etched aluminium.
As best as I can tell (have several) they are a vinyl like plastic sheet that is micro edged to create subtle light patterns. This gets picked up in the print. Beyond that they are a sticker stuck to a sheet of spring steel so it can flex to get the prints off and do wear out over time. With certain brands you can actually buy new "sticker" to peel off and replace on the metal sheet
typically i use glue on smooth PEI, no glue on textured PEI
Newbie question here... My new P1S should arrive soon... You inspired me to also get the AMS by the way... I have now watched all of your videos great content... Keep it coming.
My question: is it possible to have two types of support in the same model. Mostly need "trees default Auto" but there are two little notches that most definitely need "normal tight" is it possible to change those two notches without making the entire model normal tight. I was thinking it should be possible with either splitting the object and editing a tiny section separately or using a modifier shape... But as far as I can tell only being in the slicer for the last 10 hours or so... All of the support settings are global which seems insane and can't be right because I would think a lot of models would have a single notch or something that would require local tweaking as opposed to globally changing everything.
I don't think it's possible, but you might try to: paint on the (tree) support for the first support type, save that project as an STL file (export), and then bring it back in, and see if you can paint on a different type of (snug) support.
I honestly have no idea. Hopefully more people can comment and try to help. I very rarely print with supports.
@@ToddRafferty thank I'll go back try and redo it that way now
Depending on the model you may want to model the supports in CAD rather than doing it in the slicer. There's a Slant3D video fairly recently about doing it.
If you select "Objects" instead of "Global", you can adjust settings per model and also per modifier. So just add a modifier (eg a cube) by right-clicking on the model and "add modifier". Then (after you place it where you want it), simply change the settings by (making sure the modifier is selected in the object list) then "Tree Supports" (or whatever - you can change any setting you want) down below.
Have you stopped making videos now? Interested to know how the business is going. Mine is taking off but my profits per item are very low.
Use hairspray no glue
No need for glue with pei. Really shouldn't need glue unless you are printing ABS. Or printing petg as a separation layer on glass. My very first 3d printer back in 2014 came with glue stick. But it was a ABS printer still have that printer.
bowing ? u mean warping?
Where are you Macy? Waiting for new videos
I know I'm sorry! I'm still here, I'm just working on finding an editor. I'm still filming so once I get the editing figured out we'll be rolling.
Glue for adhesion is an age old piece of misinformation stemming back to the days of glass plates. None of these PEI/PEO plates need glue for adhesion, you just need to figure out the right temperatures for the filament you are using, clean the plate well, and be sure it is level. What glue is very good for is getting some materials OFF the plate such as PETG when the plate is fully cold.
I use 3dlac, works great!
If your prints already aren't sticking to the build plate, I'm not sure what you hope to accomplish by adding glue. Using glue stick on the build plate ISN'T so that your prints stick better to the build plate. You use glue stick on build plates to which prints adhere TOO well. The glue stick is supposed to be an interface between the print and the build plate, so that the print is easier to remove. If your print is already not staying on the build plate, then you don't WANT it to be easier to remove.
my old brain doesn't under stand how it prints the shine to the print does it lift part of the sheet my head hurts trying to figure out
Not an expert but if you look a them under a magnifying glass you can actually see a micro etched pattern in the sticker they apply to the spring steel sheets. Basically that pattern gets impressed into the bottom of the print and has an effect like a holographic sticker. To the touch they are smooth so it is a very fine pattern, just enough to bounce the light
thanks @@leonardgallion6439
I don't know how those things react to alcohol, if at all, but I know if you spray alcohol onto a cold PEI bed, then rub gluestick into the alcohol evenly moving the alcohol around the bed and continuing to rub the glue stick in until you can notice it getting viscous / goopy, then finish by using a paper towel to spread it out evenly.... heat the bed, let it dry up, you'll get a nice even layer of PVA that won't leave streaks in your parts and give you great adhesion.
I have NO idea how this will work with these etched plates though.
No glue
Macy?
I’m coming back don’t worry! Just looking for an editor but I think we’ve found one 🤞🏼
You have 2 have 2 have 2!!!!! De-grease your build plates!!
Use dish washing soap and wash those fu$%@rs like 10 times with soap and water.
"Promo sm"
Order soon, may not be able to get those much longer. The. Chinese economy is crashing.
Hey girlfriendyou can throw away those glue sticks just add a little alcoholand you're good to go with the texture platesHey girlfriendyou can throw away those glue sticks just add a little alcoholand you're good to go with the texture plates Thanks for the video
Sponsored content. “Do not recommend this channel” - thanks for the heads up.
What part of this is sponsored? I bought these on Amazon and filmed my experience using them? Thanks for watching!
disagree with this comment. I got your back @macymakes3d. Trolls gonna troll...
@@macymakes3d Silly People, I love your channel and am a new subscriber. Thank You for all your hard work.