Would welcome one of these that considers a loft conversion in a Victorian terrace - so without truss rafters but with purlin, a roof board and a structural wall at the midpoint between front and back bedrooms please
Great video, really useful, I'd been wondering about wide houses. If an internal wall is difficult, wonder about one or two front to back steels (away from Windows), also perhaps with an odd steel post downwards through stud walls where that is possible. Ok it's a job for a structural engineer, but like to think first what might be possible and sensible. Thanks for the free tools.
Great video as always. Could you potentially do a clip on L-Shaped dormer loft conversions? The internet seems to be a black hole for anything relevant to this type.
Robin, do you have any videos on the options for those of us in timber frame, brick clad, constructed houses? I watched a video where a home owners builder actually had to expose the cavity to run doubled up 6x2s up the inside of the walls in order to support the steels. I presume the external brick clad isn't alone able to support the steels. Personally, I live in a split level house due to being on a hill and would like to have a dormer conversion done on the lower half but struggling to find information without actual engineer engagement which right now would be a waste of their time as we aren't in a position to move forward with it anyway, but I'm still curious as to its viability as a project and how it could be carried off. Thanks.
I want to do a loft conversion but my roof is pyramid shaped. Are you able to do a video of a loft conversion with this type of roofline? Mine house is all lumber, early 1900's build in the US. load bearing walls are the outside perimeter walls of course and a central hallway that runs the length of the home.
Hi Robin, very helpful videos thank you. I’ve designed my hip to gable loft conversion with the steel supporting ladder walls and a ridge beam (existing structure is not a truss but purlins and rafters). I’ve searched many similar examples but for some reason, nobody opts to support both ends of the ridge beam with steel columns. At the gable, they tend to use timber stud walls and bear the steel on top. I assume a steel column here would form a goal post arrangement and and horizontal (wind) load would cause a horizontal reaction at the padstone. Is this the reason for not having a goal post arrangement? Many thanks, Andrew
Great video as per usual! A question if you will be so kind. In an 'old fashioned' loft space (purlins are supporting the roof), if it wasn't for fire regulations and such new standards, could one have in the past, dropped off of said purlins and build a new floor from them. A. The purlins and fixed into the walls, either side. B. The purlins are typically 9" x 3" Thanks for your hard work with the content.
@@kevocos sorry, I don't quite understand TikTok, aplogises? Is that a yes or a no. Well, perhaps it's a loaded question really, I saw a loft conversion last week which had been completed in 2003 and the floor joists were supported by the purlins, they had been hung off of them using structural plywood and from the plywood, joist hangers. Nearly 20 years on and it was all good?
@@kevocos what's your background please. I'm sure you'll agree there's a lot of CZcams experts floating around these days. So apologies for asking, in advance of your structural background and resume, once provided. 👍 What's your knowledge of loft conversions from 2005 and before, when steels were RARELY used in this sector of construction.
Great video. Quick question, my bungalow was built with trusses already in for loft conversion. The trusses are 200mm depth, do I require a steel beam for support?
Hi Robin. Great video. Can I ask what you would take the effective length of the beam for LTB as? Is it the span between walls or are you considering intermediate lateral restraint from the studs and floor joists? All the best.
Hi. That is a great question! LTB is going to be the biggest factor here, for sure. If you can afix the new joists to the beam for the full depth, and then make a diaphragm out of the floor, then you could make a case for it being fully restrained. If not, then you would have to take it as unrestrained, and therefore Le = 1.2L + 2D in my view.
@@RobindeJongh and am I right in saying the 1.2 as opposed to say 1 is due to the beam resting on padstones without any fixings, i.e. not being bolted down? All the best.
Could a steel truss with L plate replace the steel beam, if so does it have to be welded together or could it be bolted together? What about a L plate box truss? Also how would it be mounted into the gable wall?
Hi Andy. Yes in theory it could. If you could weld it in situ it would work. If you bolted it, you would have bolt slip, so deflection might be an issue. But in theory it is a great solution and one I've given a fair bit of thought to implementing one day.
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Would welcome one of these that considers a loft conversion in a Victorian terrace - so without truss rafters but with purlin, a roof board and a structural wall at the midpoint between front and back bedrooms please
Great video, really useful, I'd been wondering about wide houses. If an internal wall is difficult, wonder about one or two front to back steels (away from Windows), also perhaps with an odd steel post downwards through stud walls where that is possible. Ok it's a job for a structural engineer, but like to think first what might be possible and sensible. Thanks for the free tools.
Great video as always. Could you potentially do a clip on L-Shaped dormer loft conversions? The internet seems to be a black hole for anything relevant to this type.
That was very informative. Thanks. Might I ask how the steel size would be calculated in this example? Thanks again. 👍
Robin If I want to do a A Frame design taking out the ceiling joist will the rafterbeam be sufficient
Robin, do you have any videos on the options for those of us in timber frame, brick clad, constructed houses?
I watched a video where a home owners builder actually had to expose the cavity to run doubled up 6x2s up the inside of the walls in order to support the steels.
I presume the external brick clad isn't alone able to support the steels.
Personally, I live in a split level house due to being on a hill and would like to have a dormer conversion done on the lower half but struggling to find information without actual engineer engagement which right now would be a waste of their time as we aren't in a position to move forward with it anyway, but I'm still curious as to its viability as a project and how it could be carried off. Thanks.
I want to do a loft conversion but my roof is pyramid shaped. Are you able to do a video of a loft conversion with this type of roofline? Mine house is all lumber, early 1900's build in the US. load bearing walls are the outside perimeter walls of course and a central hallway that runs the length of the home.
Hi Robin, very helpful videos thank you. I’ve designed my hip to gable loft conversion with the steel supporting ladder walls and a ridge beam (existing structure is not a truss but purlins and rafters). I’ve searched many similar examples but for some reason, nobody opts to support both ends of the ridge beam with steel columns. At the gable, they tend to use timber stud walls and bear the steel on top. I assume a steel column here would form a goal post arrangement and and horizontal (wind) load would cause a horizontal reaction at the padstone. Is this the reason for not having a goal post arrangement? Many thanks, Andrew
Great video as per usual!
A question if you will be so kind.
In an 'old fashioned' loft space (purlins are supporting the roof), if it wasn't for fire regulations and such new standards, could one have in the past, dropped off of said purlins and build a new floor from them.
A. The purlins and fixed into the walls, either side.
B. The purlins are typically 9" x 3"
Thanks for your hard work with the content.
@@kevocos sorry, I don't quite understand TikTok, aplogises?
Is that a yes or a no. Well, perhaps it's a loaded question really, I saw a loft conversion last week which had been completed in 2003 and the floor joists were supported by the purlins, they had been hung off of them using structural plywood and from the plywood, joist hangers. Nearly 20 years on and it was all good?
@@kevocos what's your background please. I'm sure you'll agree there's a lot of CZcams experts floating around these days. So apologies for asking, in advance of your structural background and resume, once provided. 👍
What's your knowledge of loft conversions from 2005 and before, when steels were RARELY used in this sector of construction.
Can the beams be placed at the top of where you show the stud wall in the first example at an angle to support the roof? To leave the space more open.
Great video. Quick question, my bungalow was built with trusses already in for loft conversion. The trusses are 200mm depth, do I require a steel beam for support?
Hi. You should check with the truss designers.
Hi Robin, the cursor isn't showing on your video - thought i'd let you know.
Hi Robin. Great video. Can I ask what you would take the effective length of the beam for LTB as? Is it the span between walls or are you considering intermediate lateral restraint from the studs and floor joists? All the best.
Hi. That is a great question! LTB is going to be the biggest factor here, for sure. If you can afix the new joists to the beam for the full depth, and then make a diaphragm out of the floor, then you could make a case for it being fully restrained. If not, then you would have to take it as unrestrained, and therefore Le = 1.2L + 2D in my view.
@@RobindeJongh and am I right in saying the 1.2 as opposed to say 1 is due to the beam resting on padstones without any fixings, i.e. not being bolted down?
All the best.
Could a steel truss with L plate replace the steel beam, if so does it have to be welded together or could it be bolted together? What about a L plate box truss? Also how would it be mounted into the gable wall?
Hi Andy. Yes in theory it could. If you could weld it in situ it would work. If you bolted it, you would have bolt slip, so deflection might be an issue. But in theory it is a great solution and one I've given a fair bit of thought to implementing one day.