Magnetize Your Minis! Painting Handles, Transportation, Storage, and Beyond! :-)
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- čas přidán 1. 02. 2023
- I Magnetize almost all of my minis, and it increases the ease and efficiency of the way that I hobby. Putting the right neodymium magnet or piece of steel under the base makes the mini easy to hold while painting, and it's useful for storage and transportation too. It's also convenient for movement trays. You can even stick your minis to your refrigerator! I go over the design of comfy magnetic painting handles in this vid. Also, I briefly mention magnetizing joints in this video, but this is a more niche application. I magnetize ALL of my bases :-)
I've been wanting to make this vid for a while! Two of the earliest vids on this channel were about magnetic painting handles and magnetic storage boxes.
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You inadvertently made one of the best magnetizing wargaming figures tutorial in one of your yellow Chaos painting videos. The idea of securing magnets to a base with the help of green stuff has been a lifechanger. Now, whenever I have leftover putty after sculpting, I dip into my glass display cabinets, and secure the older magnets on my figures better with a ring of putty. Thanks for the great content!
Nice! That's a great way to never waste putty hehehe
@@GoobertownHobbies at Adepticon, remind me to walk you through how magnets can be used to make a Warhammer army airplane-safe
Fucking magnets! How do they work?
I never thought of that. Usually I just use leftover putty by making random pieces of basing debris.
That Brent has a Harvard degree comes as no surprise. Your videos are dynamic, relevant, and wicked smart.
I took a few night classes there through their extension school... I think the Qdoba rewards card probably says more about me :-)
Wicked Smaaaaaaaht!
@@wellywanderer There it is.
I secretly suspect that he and miniminuteman (history-tuber who went to college in Boston) are actually the same person
I used to think that a Harvard degree guaranteed someone was smart, until I was proven wrong a few times, but it usually does indicate they have self discipline and a good work ethic and are knowledgeable, and many are indeed wicked smart, but a few at least, are definitely not what anyone should be calling smart (unless they are even less intelligent themselves) but that doesn’t mean they aren’t knowledgeable or hard working. Goobertown is smart, hard working, and a great content creator!
Quick tip for those who want to cut their own sheet steel but have never done so be careful with the edges or wear gloves. Cutting sheet metal, especially steel, with snips like that can leave really sharp and jagged edges that will easily go through skin running over them with a file quickly can remove those burred edges. I can't count the number of times at work a tiny slip on an edge has caused me to release red dummy indicator fluid.
I’ve been looking for something like that for a while. Glad to now know what to search for. Strike plates!
Ahhh, that's the ticket, laddie!
Dimes, nickels, quarters, loonies, and toonies are all viable options too. Just stay away from that American play money.
For 3d printed resin bases, it's actually quite easy to punch a magnet hole in the base. In lychee or chitubox, the hollowing feature can put holes in miniatures for drain holes; upsize that hole to the width and depth of your magnet, and it works like a charm. It only takes a couple seconds to punch the hole in the base, so my entire build plate can be done in 30 seconds.
good call! this totally makes sense, I'll give it a try someday. :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies Magnetic Paper/Film, some glue (the adhesive on the paper isn't very strong), and a scissors/hobby knife to cut the magnet paper to size also works pretty well (and works for regular bases too, but not nearly as strong as neodymium magnets, so metal models on regular or resin bases doesn't really work).
@@tomm6863 I have a 1 inch circluar punch for doing exactly that. Works great for most person and smaller size resin models and holds well to steel plate.
I came here to share this; good to see it's already covered!
This this this. even if I am not magnetizing, I am punching holes in the bottom of all my bases as a future proof. I found better results of doing this in lychee compared to chitubox :)
Howdy Goobertown - I just wanted to let you know that your videos are an absolute highlight of my rabbit hole into this hobby. I've learned so much from you, and I was JUST getting ready to dip into magnetization when lo and behold, you drop this video. I couldn't be more excited to watch it and learn.
I just wanted to say thank you for your hard work, your wonderful attitude, and your various tips n' tricks. I show everyone who wants to get into the hobby your channel, and I will continue to do so as long as it's around. You have a disarming kindness about you that is unmatched. Thanks for taking the time to do this service for the community.
Hey thanks for the note! I'm glad these are useful for you... and I'm happy that the timing of this one worked out so well! :-)
I painted my first models this last week thanks to your videos. I just wanted to practice to paint my new campaign mini but I ended up having so much fun it's become my new hobby.
That's amazing!!! keep goin keep goin! :-)
The magnet sandwich is answered in such depth that anyone can do it now! Thanks for this video!
always a joy
I’ve gotten in the habit of using old gift cards and hotel keys as spacers for my magnets under the bases. Works a treat!
Don't use small magnets on magnetic sheet or magnetic tape, it will degrade the magnetic properties of the sheet/tape. This is because the polarity in magnetic sheets is arranged in repeating strips of +/-. Normally the polarities balance each other out, but if you put a disc magnet on there it will distort the polarity and permanently degrade the strength of the sheet's magnetism. Use steel instead. Or you can get Ferrotape, a ferrous tape that looks like magnet tape but has no magnetism of its own, whilst allowing magnets to attach to it.
that makes sense! I really don't have any experience with those flexible sheets, but yeah, that totally makes sense, thank you :-)
Ferrotape looks like an easy and flexible way. I got to give this a try
If I'm 3D printing bases and want to put a magnet hole in them, I use the drain hole feature to put a hole the size of the magnet in the bottom. The bases are too thin to hollow but the hole will still get added without having to open up the STL in a 3D modeling tool
nice! great call, I need to give that a shot :-)
Great video Brent, it was so powerful I couldn't pull myself away from the screen
For the slot bases, just clip out or grind down the slot in the middle. I used to clip them out entirely because I glued nickels to the bottoms for weight on my hormogaunts. As long as you glue or epoxy slot in good, it's fine to remove that meat from the bottom so you can center a magnet.
I've seen some whacky magnetizing attempts over the years. One guys infantry had nickel-sized refrigerator magnets. They had just enough sideways pull to where they acted like a pseudo-movement tray. You could gently slide 1 model across the table and several others would follow lol.
I tend to use 5x2mm for infantry. 3x2 if they have weak glue joins on the feet like those bloodbowl amazons that stand on their tip toes.
My other mags were for specific magnet jobs and were sized for those specific applications.
hahahaha, that's great
For those with mini collections pre-existing that you might want to magnetise quickly, The Magnet Shop (based in the UK) have the WarMag line of adhesive magnetic discs that work very simply. They’re designed to cover the entire base, which increases the height of the mini by a millimetre, but makes for a huge contact point for your storage surface or handle.
They also have the sheets that fill the Really Useful 4L boxes. and are printed designs to boot. Just wish I could find a supplier state side.
@@noverman 3M (and probably others too) make ferrous sheets, which are basically the same except without the design, but for half the price. I'm sure you can find them in the US.
Awesome video! One more material to use in the bottom of a 'document bin' is any ferrous sheet, I'm using FerroFlex. It's stronger than a magnetic sheet, but less strong than steel. The benefit is that it's able to be cut by normal scissors.
oh good call, thanks! :-)
I like these kinds of video's the most. Where you report back on your experience after doing a hobby related thing for a while.
Thanks! I figured I've tried enough variants of this magnet stuff that it was time to make a vid :-)
I love how you showed off this again!!!!!
This is a great way to help people thinking about magnets totally worth it
Once again Brent provides an in depth thoughtful solution to a constant problem we all have. Thank you!!!!
Those lovely Bio-Titans.
I actually like using hot glue to glue the magnets to the base of the mini. You have to make sure there's at least a thin film of hot glue between the magnet and whatever surface that you attach it to or the magnet will pop out fairly easily. What I do to get the magnet to stay as close to the bottom surface as possible is take a small piece of sheet metal and coat it with Crisco and then stick it to the base to pull the magnet toward the bottom. After the hot glue sets up you can twist that little piece of sheet metal and it'll pop right off.
Brilliant and informative! Shout out from South Africa! HOOOHAAA!!!
Another Goobz video, it's gonna be a great day!
Great video, you’ve covered everything I usually do for storage. Wargaming minis get a magnet under the base (usually held by greenstuff) then get stored in boxes exactly like you demonstrated. Board game minis get a steel washer underneath (annoying hole in the middle and all), because as you say the extra weight is really useful especially with light plastic minis, then I usually add a strip of flexible magnetic sheeting inside the gamebox to hold them so everything can be stored in one place.
excellent!! :-)
This man not only has the most wholesome useful miniatures videos but he has two of the most adorable cats
thanks for all the good tips Goober!
I started painting again after 20 years. I learned so much from your tutorial videos. Thanks a lot.
Very nice! Welcome back :-)
Genius idea am going to do this to my bolt action models and warhammer models !
nice! have fun and good luck getting your system goin :-)
I've been using magnets for years but I learned so much from your video! Thanks for this! :)
the locktite epoxy is awesome! love the pointed tip it creates
About to try this for the first time for storage and carrying, thanks for the video, really helpful.
oooh, have fun!!! I hope you find a system that works well for you :-)
A little trick I use myself: Personally I secure magnets to bases by encasing them within a little dollop of acrylic basing paste (Vallejo's sand texture, FYI). I have to leave them aside overnight to dry, but the paste is basically hard as a rock when it does, since it's a very similar material to what one would use to lay bathroom tiles.
That's a really good idea, I'm going to have to give it a try. Thank you for sharing!
@@Derlaid no problem!
nice! :-)
Very much a magnet moment
Well now I know what I'm doing this weekend. Brent 10/10 with the knowledge and technical skills sharing. If you ever find yourself in Georgia I owe you a beer for all your awesome videos
have an outstanding weekend!!! :-)
One of the "advantages" on the dollar store becoming the dollar-twenty-five store is (at least near me) the expanded craft section. On my last trip I found a bunch of sheet-metal signs and tags that I've used in the bottom of my transport totes (also found at the same store) to hold my magnet-based figures. They also have magnets. I'll have to check out the makeup section next time for dry brush brushes.
Awesome video!
Something I learned the hard way: Tin Snips are color coded. Yellow handles cut straight, red curves left, and green curves right. Fought with and ruined a lot of duct steel before I got some yellow handles.
I glue magnets similar to how you do it, but using hot glue: I prepare a non-stick surface, either i put a sheet of baking paper on the table or use something flat made of silicone. I put the magnet in the right position it should be once it's glued to the base (learned your reference magnet trick on one of your videos, still have to magnetize handles though), then i dribble hot glue on top and a bit around it, then i put the base on top of it, then let it cool. In the end i have the magnet solidly grabbed to the base from the bottom and the sides, yet it's flush with the table, and since it's hot glue, if i desire i can remove it with some heat. And it's very fast, you can have a bunch of bases ready quick if you put down many magnets on the surface waiting to be glued (just be sure they aren't *too* close).
That sounds like a good system, I like it!!! :-) I've been seeing a surprising number of folks recommend hot glue, and now I'm curious, thanks for the recommendation!
Just to say I have been doing the same but putting the hot glue under the base and then hoping to put it down in the right spot, I've just read this and now feel like a total idiot! how did I not think of this, thanks for the info.
One of your first videos I watched was about building these carrier things.
Brilliant! Great job! Always learning something new!
I’m still here for the fishing videos🎣!
I've used small washer that I glue 5x2mm magnets to. It gives the minis a bit more bottom weight and the magnets are generally strong enough. Glad I'm near your mark!
Nice! I'm glad you have a system that's working for you :-)
Great video! I use a a wad of green stuff superglued to the base along with a magnet superglued to that. One thing I learned recently is that baking soda will instantly set CA (Super) Glue! So a quick dip in that, shake off the excess and you're done!
This chanel is simply a gem! Thanks for this and all other tips and tutorials.
When I bought my first mini painting kit a few years ago, I was confused by the instructions using fancy words like “priming”, so I took to youtube and Goobertown Hobbies “FUNDAMENTALS!” video was the first thing I watched and building my own magnetized handles from an old broomstick, was the first thing I did afterwards (as well as buying a wet palette). The information itself, to put the Minis on a handle, probably saved me from a lot of frustration while painting! Today, already knowing about magnetized handles, this video was still very informative and I learned some new things I can implement into the hobby. Thanks Brent!
Well done. Best DIY video I have seen this year. Thank you.
I’ve been waiting for a vid just like this. My use of magnetic sheets hasn’t worked for me so you tips around baking trays metal, sheets and milliput instead of super glue has been invaluable…. Thanks Brent !
Another amazing video. The amount of effort you put into the things you do, is unreal.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
I'm going with the less elegant velcro way, but your video helped me a ton. Kudos.
Thanks for this video. In the process of finishing up my first unit and this is a lot of great info.
Very nice. I can certainly understand the... 😎 attraction. Great video, Brent
I literally just finished building my first conquest models and am exploring magnetization options. Glorious content as always
nice!!
Great content. I remember your earlier video about magnetizing painting handles. This is a very good follow-up with a lot more detail . Thanks!
I have a painting handle that uses a screw on cap. coincidentally, soda bottle caps fit on this. So I super glued magnets on the bottom of the bottle caps and use some poster tac and then I didn't have to buy cork or dowels for batch painting. Its an option for those that are looking to be more efficient. I love these videos. Such a great ambassador of the hobby and humanity.
Adding magnets to the minis themselves for articulation is actually super useful in Battletech.
I love magnets, too. Great Video, you inspired me to try some things (again). Thank you!
I love your OG Dark Eldar army! That great paint job makes the classic models feel like the modern range 👍Well done Sir!
Hey thanks! black paint for the underarmor, and secret-weapon washes on the armor... I might need to paint some more now that speedpaint is a thing! :-)
Awesome video. This is the best magnetic miniatures video. Believe me, I have watched them all. We definitely had some parallel thinking going on or researched the same people. PLEASE WEAR GLOVES when cutting duct steel!
Metal Tape is also a great tool.
Thank you! I’ve been in the experiment stage with magnets for far too long & it’s great to be able to jump ahead by sharing your results
love a good batch production line
I followed your magnetization system since the little gobbos and has been a game changer for my project logistics.
that's awesome to hear! I love 'em :-)
Just wanted to say your vibe is infectious. I love watching your videos because you always bring such good energy. Amazing tips too ofc. Bu lt those happy little smiles echo how I feel when I play woth my little plastic people.
Keep having fun with it! I hope you're having a great day :-)
Brilliant detail as always!!
I love the old Easton Aluminum in here. I had one as a kid and loved it. That might have been my favorite hockey stick ever. Great video Im currently in the process of magnetizing my storage and this really helped
Goobertown, there is a faw easier solution to glueing the magnets to the base. Take a sheet of metal / magnetizable surface that is flat. Put a sheet of baking paper on top. Put your magnets. Bit of hot glue. Stick the base on top. Bit of hot glue. Base on top. If you score the surface, it is quite probably that it wont come off.
Magnets 2.0! Love it. Made a vid on how we magnetize it for the german audience and I can't get around always referencing your handles. Great video :)
Really enjoyed this - particuarley the painting handles - thanks for the tips!
Magnetic flightstands... Honestly looks like fun when it spins.
It IS fun! Plus, the model is janky enough that I'm not too concerned for its safety ;-)
@@GoobertownHobbies which is excellent and I name that ship the Mer-E-Goronde!
I was magnet crazed for a while but kept running into failures with bonds. The cost became a bit much too. So now I just buy a few extras of models that have viable options or I pick the 'all comers' build. Since I don't play competitive, I don't worry about maxing out my points.
Now, about flying bases and stands. I found two solutions.
1. counter sink the top of the post into the model as far as you can go without is locking up. Then cut a channel down the inside of the hole. Then add a strip of styrene to the post at the top aligned with the slot you made and the direction the model is to face relative to the base.
2. If the model can, attach the point that connects to the stand to the stand then magnetize that to the rest of the model.
The method I use now is to ditch the provided post and replace with a length of brass rod of an appropriate gauge vs. model weight and balance.
Such a good video on magnetised models
Definitely some great tips and tricks in here! Those strike plates look perfect for the Conquest minis. Awesome work as always 👍
thanks! I'm so excited about these conquest minis now :-)
This video is hands down the new Gold Standard for anyone trying to get into magnetization. I utilize many of these techniques already and consider myself a pretty savvy magnetizer...but even I learned a lot here! I am both inspired and discouraged to make my own version of this video. It almost seems redundant to do anything other than link folks to this one in the future 😅 Might just stick to specific kit guides for my channel. Hats off to you for this highly in depth guide!
Sick video, man. GREAT INFO THANK YOU
I got inspired by your priming video, and decided to magnetize my workflow! I don't have access to power tools and workshops, so I glue little ferromagnetic disks that are meant for makeup depotting, onto surfaces like painting handles and the board I'm using for priming. It's honestly life changing!
That's awesome!!! great to hear :-)
Great video, Goobertown!
One correction though, modern electronics are not sensitive to magnets anymore. LCDs and LEDs are unaffected by magnets, it's old CRTs that are affected. And modern electronics is also not affected by magnets, only older HDD storage would be affected by magnets, and in that case we are talking about industrial strength magnets mounted on cranes, not household magnets.
So go ahead and put minis on your phone or LCD screen if you want!
I love that you're using the old Dark Eldar Warp Beasts. Those beauties were one of my first sets!
I love that old DE range :-) The beasts actually look pretty good on 40 mm round bases!
I always wondered when we would get a magnet video, Very nice.
I took some of this footage 4 years ago, but it wasn't until I found those strike plates that I knew the time had finally come :-)
That's hilarious timing. I watched your original video about your magnetized storage case from like 4 years ago 3 times last night and planned on doing something similar. Love seeing an updated video on the topic.
hahahaha, nice!
I’m so glad I found your channel!
welcome! I'm glad that you're here :-)
Damn! Just the right video at just the right time for my purposes! Love it ❤️
At the moment I'm painting an old BattleMasters (Claymore Saga in Europe) box. Already started to experiment with magnets to stick the minis to the bases. But had no solution for storage & transportation.
Steelsheets & baking forms made my day ❤️❤️❤️
Awesome tips Brent! Here's another one for you: If you're 3D printing resin bases, use the "hole" feature to make a perfectly magnet size hole in the bottom! I keep a little notebook next to the computer, and I have a page with all my magnet sizes and the dimensions I would need for the hole. I like to make the hole 0.1mm larger than the magnet in both diameter and depth to allow for the thickness of the glue and any slight variations in the magnets.
This is pure gold advice! I've been doing this for years myself using second hand store baking trays. And I've been using dollar store glass jars with metal lids for my paint handles but magnet to magnet in a wood handle... ya... I'm making the change.
nice! I've done the jar technique myself, but the wooden handles are nice and comfy :-)
I just found a seller who makes these metal disks for phone to car magnets. They come with adhesive already. It'll come in handy with resin prints with flat bases. They also come in a lot of sizes.
I print little magnet holders in PLA with an FDM printer to fit circular magnets under bases. For example, for a 6x2mm magnet, the "tube" would have a 7mm outer diameter and a 6.1mm inner diameter, and be about 2mm tall. Just enough to fit the magnet. A brim can be added to provide more surface area to glue the holder to the base.
Modeling glue melts the PLA magnet holder to the base, then super glue is used to glue the magnet inside the holder. This provides much more surface area for the magnet to hold on to. I haven't had a single failure yet. Fifty 6mm magnet holders can be printed in an hour, and they're easy to install as part of the normal model assembly process.
Such a great in-depth video! I love the inventiveness for all of your priming rigs! Seen some other people talking about hot glue, I've been using this but haven't been transporting anything around much, so I can't vouch for it's strength/longevity in regular use. I do find this easy to get polarity correct on a magnetic adhesive sheet though, and also to get the base and magnet flush with the surface. I put a sheet of baking paper over the magnetic sheet (so glue overspill doesn't get on the magnetic sheet), put my magnets down on the baking paper so that the polarity is correct. Then I put a fairly thick blob of hot glue on the magnet, and push the base/mini onto it. The glue being thick and 3D means that it doubles as the spacer between the magnet and base, so both are flush to the surface. I usually leave them in place overnight to give the glue a chance to harden. It's seemed to work well for me so far!
Excellent video. I have been using magnets on my minis for quite some time and you've given me some new ideas. When I go out and get sheet metal I look for roofing sheet metal because I found that's cheaper. Of course as you said you have to be careful to make sure you pick out sheet metal that will work with magnets.
I've been using this system for the last two years. Very big improvement over the foam that I had been using.
6:26 comfortable diameter depends on hand size, but those wooden dowels are definitely a great shout. I use empty pill/supplement bottles myself. I like the bigger ones (2" diameter) better, although I put a cork on top instead of a magnet and that makes them slightly too tall for my airbrush booth. Cork on top is for where the pin in the foot goes. This way I have great excess to the bottom of the mini. To prevent them from falling over, I glued a small cork coaster to the bottom. Cardboard also works.
I use automotive drip pans for gaming boards. My terrain and miniatures have magnets in the bases, so everything stays in place if the table gets bumped. Great video with many great ideas. Thanks
oooh, I'll look into these, thanks!! :-)
that baking tray storage option is insanely clever
What a great timing for uploading this video! Just bought my first batch of magnets to magnetize the bases of my first batch of models I painted after getting inspired by your videos :)
heheheh, I hope the magnetization went well!!! :-)
This video is so good. It's helpful, informative, and jumps right to rhr point. It has a plesant tone and is quite watchable. Excellent work!
hey thanks for checking it out, friend Five! :-)
Thanks for another wonderful video, Brent!
I always wanted to make one of your wooden painting handles, but drilling a hole was a tricky part. But thanks to this video, I glued strike plates on wooden sticks and got a pretty similar stuff. I glued corks on the other side so I can subassembly stuff as well hehe
Anyway, thanks for the vid and happy new year!
Great video, as always !
The shelf handles are made by a company called Item MB Kit Systems. The black anodized stock is more expensive than the standard grey as the material is aluminum. They come in a wide variety of sizes, styles, and colors.
Thank you, I was looking for this info!
As a Daemons player in all forms of Warhammer, I can appricate strike plates on the bottom of bases. So many lunging models with no thought consider for center of gravity.
yupyup!
really good thorough video on magnetization!
This is super helpful!!! Great video!
Omg, turns out to be that I 've been looking for some video-tutorial just like yours. Thank you for your video and research!
Nice, I hope it was helpful! Have fun with magnets :-)