You explained this very well. I had no idea how un-complicated this job truly is. I know my boat mechanic would've charged me over $300, for the labor costs alone. Had it not been for the explanations into the camera, you could've done both sides of the trailer in less than a 30min. Whether it was done 100% by the book, or not, I could screw this up 2-3x's and it would still be cheaper than what my mechanic charges.... So, thank you for taking the time!
There is supposed to be 1 to 5 thousand’s clearance on the bearings. Never, ever supposed to be torqued or tightened down to zero. Please go watch the Timken bearing installation procedure before you burn up your bearings. Tightening to zero clearance is the biggest culprit for failure. I’ve been a mechanic and have pulled and serviced many trailers for going on 5 decades. You also need to pump in the grease very slowly while turning the wheel/hub. (Per Dexter axle service procedure). I would also recommend watching the Dexter axle service videos too. Torque the nut to 25 lbs then loosen it only when installing new bearings. Old bearings that have not had the cups (bearing races) removed from the hub need not be torqued again. After loosening the nut, finger tighten it as hard as you can then back it off 1/6 to 1/4 turn (do NOT turn he hub while doing this) and lock the nut to the nearest slot. But never less than 1/6 of a turn loose. That will give you the proper clearance and yes, you may feel a little movement in the wheel. That is normal. Again, watch the Timken bearing video on CZcams rather than the Dexter axle procedure for the bearings. One of my older trailers has the same type of nut locking system as yours. They can’t use a cotter pin on an easy lube axle. Mine locks closer to 1/4 turn loose. That allows a little less than 1/8 inch of movement at the outside of the tire. This is normal as indicated by the bearing manufactures. My oldest trailer is 29 years old, over a million miles and still has the original bearings and hubs and the original Dexter Torsion axle (been overloaded many times). Three sets of wheels and eight sets of tires but still on original hubs and bearings. Regards…
Dexter?...Timken?...cotter pins and lube axles???... You obviously have an overwhelming amount of knowledge on this subject. While I'm sure every bit of critique you generously offered us is 100% correct, what I'm even more curious about is why you would watch this video in the first place, given you already know what you're doing??? Unless you did it for absolutely no other reason than to critique. But, I'm sure that's not the case, given what a miserable, insecure, strangely jealous human being that would make you out to be. So, I'll just assume you are INCREDIBLY into hubs and bearings. In that case, I'll simply say thank you for the feedback, and hope that Dexter and Timken fill in whatever cracks this extremely genuine, selfless man left out.
This is the only video on here that describes the casle nut using the retainer tab behind it. Wish my boat had cotter pin hole in the spindle like everybody else. Thanks, good video.
I don't know if I have that type of screw thing or the proper torque thing I have the black bar you used for this I don't know if it would make a difference
Do you have any idea how to remove the spindle on a axle similar to the one you have in the video? My trailers Hub and spindle looks the same as yours I can't find a video on how to remove it.
Thank you for watching! I am waiting for Frank to get back to me, but I do know it's a vortex brand hub (tie down engineering) #81013 . Hopefully that helps till I talk to Frank.
You explained this very well. I had no idea how un-complicated this job truly is. I know my boat mechanic would've charged me over $300, for the labor costs alone. Had it not been for the explanations into the camera, you could've done both sides of the trailer in less than a 30min. Whether it was done 100% by the book, or not, I could screw this up 2-3x's and it would still be cheaper than what my mechanic charges.... So, thank you for taking the time!
Made it look easy my friend, I knew yinz were southwest pa 30 seconds into the video lol I’d bet money on it
My bearings took a crap on me at the boat ramp Sunday. I should have done my maintenance
There is supposed to be 1 to 5 thousand’s clearance on the bearings. Never, ever supposed to be torqued or tightened down to zero. Please go watch the Timken bearing installation procedure before you burn up your bearings. Tightening to zero clearance is the biggest culprit for failure. I’ve been a mechanic and have pulled and serviced many trailers for going on 5 decades. You also need to pump in the grease very slowly while turning the wheel/hub. (Per Dexter axle service procedure). I would also recommend watching the Dexter axle service videos too. Torque the nut to 25 lbs then loosen it only when installing new bearings. Old bearings that have not had the cups (bearing races) removed from the hub need not be torqued again. After loosening the nut, finger tighten it as hard as you can then back it off 1/6 to 1/4 turn (do NOT turn he hub while doing this) and lock the nut to the nearest slot. But never less than 1/6 of a turn loose. That will give you the proper clearance and yes, you may feel a little movement in the wheel. That is normal. Again, watch the Timken bearing video on CZcams rather than the Dexter axle procedure for the bearings. One of my older trailers has the same type of nut locking system as yours. They can’t use a cotter pin on an easy lube axle. Mine locks closer to 1/4 turn loose. That allows a little less than 1/8 inch of movement at the outside of the tire. This is normal as indicated by the bearing manufactures. My oldest trailer is 29 years old, over a million miles and still has the original bearings and hubs and the original Dexter Torsion axle (been overloaded many times). Three sets of wheels and eight sets of tires but still on original hubs and bearings. Regards…
Dexter?...Timken?...cotter pins and lube axles???... You obviously have an overwhelming amount of knowledge on this subject. While I'm sure every bit of critique you generously offered us is 100% correct, what I'm even more curious about is why you would watch this video in the first place, given you already know what you're doing??? Unless you did it for absolutely no other reason than to critique. But, I'm sure that's not the case, given what a miserable, insecure, strangely jealous human being that would make you out to be. So, I'll just assume you are INCREDIBLY into hubs and bearings. In that case, I'll simply say thank you for the feedback, and hope that Dexter and Timken fill in whatever cracks this extremely genuine, selfless man left out.
Good video... like the idea of the screw on cap...
Thank you for watching! Have a great day!
Shout out to the person who edited this. Porn music was a nice touch
This is the only video on here that describes the casle nut using the retainer tab behind it. Wish my boat had cotter pin hole in the spindle like everybody else.
Thanks, good video.
Great video. Noe need to edit, we can all skip ahead if we need to, you never know when you you will learn some small new thing.
My thoughts also, thank you for the feedback!
Great video! Appreciate the tips
Good refresher, Thanks
Thank you.
Great video
Use some brake cleaner to get that out of the way you gonna put a new hub on anyway
I don't know if I have that type of screw thing or the proper torque thing I have the black bar you used for this I don't know if it would make a difference
great video - thanks for the instruction - replacing mine soon
Thank you for the compliment and good luck with your replacement!
Nice work , how about some gloves?
Thank you for the helpful video! All was serious until you said that you want to properly lube your nuts! Had me laughing out loud!!!
We like to have fun and make people laugh! I glad we helped. Thank you for watching!
Make sure you pick up a few caps. They will crack after a season or two
Do you have any idea how to remove the spindle on a axle similar to the one you have in the video? My trailers Hub and spindle looks the same as yours I can't find a video on how to remove it.
and a torque wrench
Other videos I've watched removed backside sleeve and replaced it. Is that recommended?
Excellent video...
Thank you
Fantastic video. Excellent job. I have the same trailer. Can you give me the hub kit information and size? Thank you.
Thank you for watching! I am waiting for Frank to get back to me, but I do know it's a vortex brand hub (tie down engineering) #81013 . Hopefully that helps till I talk to Frank.
@@trianglerz Thank you so much. You have been more helpful than any customer service I have tried on the internet and phone.
Never grease the lug nuts
Que medida es la tuerca de la espiga amigo?
I think you missed the most important part. Cotter pin.
His trailer doesn't have a cotter pin. It had a washer with tabs you bend.
Towing a boat 70 mph down the highway. Don't be that guy
Good content but what is up with the camera work? Just stick it on a tripod, not hand held and zooming in and out for no reason.