How to Upgrade Your Disc Brakes
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2024
- Thinking of upgrading your disc brakes, but don't know where to start? Alex breaks down the key elements to consider when deciding to upgrade your brakes!
Intro 00:00
Before Upgrading Your Bikes 00:15
Brake Pads 01:20
Brake Rotor 3:25
Conclusion 5:51
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What do you consider when it is time to upgrade your brakes? Pads? Rotors? Or both?
Let us know in the comments below💬
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What do you consider when it is time to upgrade your brakes? Pads? Rotors? Or both?
Let us know in the comments below💬👇
On the roadbike I run rim brakes (as the bike is approximately 20 years old) on the MTB I ride Galfer pads and rotors and I have only good things to say about them!!!! (Trailbike 200mm/180mm and 180mm front and back on the XC bike) but I weight in at around 90 kg ready to ride...
What are rotors? Upgrade? I swap the pads when they wear out. Using EE brakes (rim brakes obviously). I don't really think much about my brakes, they just work.
Another consideration when looking at lightweight rotors with massive cutouts on the brake track. If it's not designed well, those cutouts will just act like a cheese grater on your pads. You see it happen sometimes with cheep slotted/drilled rotors on cars in the automotive world.
agree, the fanciest looking are often not the best performing!
Large riders take note- if you find yourself in need of significant braking using resin pads can wear out FAST. At 100kg (plus the bike) I burned through a new set of resin pads in about three days at training camp (2023) in Wales on some crazy long braking sessions required on long, twisty, no-visibility descents where I could not build up any speed for fear of overshooting the many switchbacks.
This year I took sintered metallic pads and they held up perfectly fine.
How are the sintered for noise? I find my resin perfect but I have often wondered if sintered are worth a try for those days of heavy descending
When they get fouled with dirt etc on rainy days they are noisy but not significantly more than resin, I've found. Seems most of the noise comes from the rotor, not the pad.
Lots of great info. Thanks for the video!
Way more info than expected Thanks
You're welcome!
GCN Tech, Your videos always brighten my day, so I subscribed!
aww thanks! Welcome aboard!
Videos like this brings me back to days where Jon Cannings used to present. Love it. More of it please.
Don’t forget to grease your rotors for maximum aero efficiency!
👀
I don't think 180mm front rotors are all that common on gravel groupsets. SRAM XPLR and Shimano GRX are both designed for 140 and 160 as defaults.
One of the first things I do is add an adapter to my bike unless it is already set for 180's. The extra stopping power allows me to stop quickly in foul weather when the rotors are wet or when I am packing some extra weight during commuting.
My rear brake had a complete failure downhill. It chose to detach and live a different life.
Worth mentioning that metallic pads will wear rotors substantially faster than resin/organic pads.
Good vid. Just watch brake cleaners around CF forks. Some of those solvents are very powerful.
I cringe at the sight of using spray cleaners! I spray the cleaning cloth and then wipe the parts.
@@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene It's a good habit to have to keep the work area clean. For example, when I bleed brakes, I touch as few places as possible.
Useful vid. Good job.
❤
thanks!
One other benefit of organic pads being softer, they do not wear out your rotors as quickly as sintered. Meaning you replace your rotors less frequently, over time saving you money.
I am a heavier rider and I find that organic pads will often get to hot and then squeal like a stuck pig and become virtually useless. The solution I have found is semi-metalics which give me the benefit of not melting like Sintereds, but not wearing out my rotors like organics.
Yes peak torque getting the mention!!
Sintered pads are more abrasive on braking surface too, they'll wear disks faster than organic pads. Something to keep in mind.
And some rotors are specifically resin only pads!
@@playandteachOn one of three wheelsets for my cyclocross bike with metalic pads I have those 'organic pads only' rotors and they work just fine.
@@jeskli11 Good to know.
I remember watching a video from a disc brake manufacturer, and the science was that smaller discs can in some situations outperform a large disc. The underlying mechanism is that the brakes have an ideal working temperature, too low, or too high, and you lose performance. You should choose a size that gives you the right action for your riding. Have you any data that contradicts this or are you just assuming that larger is better?
Please post a link to noted video. I've found that all bicycle disk brakes reach "optimal operating temperature" within a second of hard actuation. These aren't F1 race cars that need their rotors at 400F to work properly.
622mm rotors for ease of maintenance, aerodynamic efficiency, weight, and cost.
ah, we see what you said there!
Not aerodynamics, but the rest I agree with.
Have you included the cost of replacing the wheel rims every 20,000km? No, of course you haven't.
@@grahamaustin9085 Yes I have, wheels are cheap. The last set of light weight aluminium rims I bought with tyres cost $20. Wankers upgrade to carbon rims and give away their new aluminium rims. You're just a victim of marketing.
@@drooghead I used to think that until I built a bike with carbon rims.
Organic pads on a road bike, metalic all the way on my cyclocross bike, metalic or semi-metalic on my mountain bike.
I run hope floating 160mm f&r with hope rx4+ mega stopping and modulation 😎
@peaktorque getting a mention! wonder if his stance on GCN will soften 😄
I would hope GCN embraces reductions or removal of his valid complaints. Keep getting better GCN by giving your best in all you do.
peak torque should remain a media skeptic. nothing wrong with critics in this world, he bases his findings on factual integrity. nothing wrong with GCN listening to its critics. sunlight is good.
I found it funny that they mention peak torque, and then go on to suggest Shimano IceTech rotors, when said PeakTorque has (verbally) trashed those for warping under hard braking.
peak torque will buy out GCN one of these days! Or - idea for a mash-up - GCN Torque!
Why does almost every channel neglect - or ignore - any mention of ceramic pads? I run cheap Chinese ceramic pads and they're loads better than any resin pads that I've ever used in the past: they're consistent, they bed in quickly with just a few light applications of the brake lever when new, they last a long time, and they're easy on the rotors so they, too, last a long time. As a bonus, they hardly leave any dust residue all around the calipers.
Mechanical brakes. No need to bleed. Growtac/Paul/Yokozuna
Yea, good mechanicals function perfectly. I live in the most mountainous state of America. Most dramatic elevation changes, from 700 feet to 15,000 in just 50 miles.
My Tektro Novelas never failed to slow my bike and I down. (bike weighs more than 14 kg)
@@yonglingng5640 Thank you. It is as good as brakes get because there is a bottom to the pull, no flex after a point. And our brakes are only as good as the traction between tire and surface.
@@yonglingng5640 I also have mechanical tektros but am going to upgrade them. Tektros disc rotors are terrible because of the large hole/small hole pattern, they don't wear evenly and don't function optimally. Just swapping the rotors out helped stopping power significantly but I'm going to upgrade the calipers to growtac. My bike weighs 28lbs, more of course with water and bike packing gear loaded up. I weigh 190.
Yokozunas!
Thanks Alex and Crew...maybe look at a mechanical/hydraulic set up ? Have to check out the price as yet...be well , eh ?
#askgcntech Great video Alex! Thank you! You guys should do a video on understanding bottom bracket standards. I have a bike with Shimano Ultegra and I want to switch to SRAM because I don’t like the power meter options for Shimano. But knowing for sure exactly which bottom bracket to use confuses me.
To understand what bottom bracket you need, you need to figure out two things: Your frame's bottom bracket standard and crankset's spindle diameter.
Do you know what bottom bracket standard does your frame use?
Fire this guy.
How about a 622mm rotor?
we see what you did there!
My thoughts exactly
First thought when reading the title: Why would anybody upgrade disc brakes?? They function perfectly. The only upgrade that comes in my mind is: Positioning the holes in the disc in a way that it plays "'bicycle race' by Queen when breaking ...
Some disc brake calipers flex under high hydraulic pressure,, allowing some of the force meant for braking to be lost here. Monoblock calipers like the Hope RX4+ are resistant to caliper flex.
hey, what happened to the prominently displayed Elite Drive wheels?! (I know....)
Ceramic as well now.
You left out the single biggest gain- switch to a 4 piston caliper. Also, the holes are in rotors to release the gas that's generated when braking. Making them lighter is just a side benefit.
For the rear wheel I use my generous sized buttocks to stop the wheel.....
And for the front I find my index finger and thumb do the job nicely.
Unfortunately I struggle to stay aero when trying to do both simultaneously
Wtf💀
Big booty brakes ftw 😂
a rider of many talents! We salute you 🫡
Have you considered dragging your heel on the ground for added braking performance on steep descents?
@@andrewmcalister3462 I used that technique for many years ...... Unfortunately now I'm unable to reach my left pedal as a result.
Never mind my ass is mighty!
You buy a bike with rimbrakes, and ride with ease! ( Still, great information, thx)
Well, until it rains. Then you’re f*****d.
Brake pad material choice still matters on rim brakes! I use Swisstop GXP on alloy rims and the Black Prince on carbon rims because they are less abrasive than other pads, but are also just as powerful as competitors.
@@petersouthernboy6327 I ride year-round in Seattle with rim brakes no problem. What are you talking about?
I rode 11,000k in the Toronto area last year and got caught in rain ONCE... but even then I was using quality alloy rims, so it was no big deal.
@@petersouthernboy6327 On carbon rims maybe. But I've managed to lock up alloy rims under braking in wet conditions so brakes aren't the limiting factor there.
QUESTION: Of what is made the default pads of the "Shimano Ultegra 11sp 8000"?
Also why is there no mention at all of Ceramic pads, is it any better? The only thing ive upgraded last year was the Ultegra disc for Dura-Ace since they look way nicer with the black and it was the cheapest "Dura-Ace" upgrade possible 😅
An important consideration about rotors is the balance between hollow and solid parts on the pad contact. Some rotors are only drilled in the center of the track, so pads and rotors wear much more in the center, resulting in shorter life and poor performance when pads need to be changed.
sBought my bike second hand 5 years & some 20K Km’s ago. Not bled my brakes ever….and none of the bike mechanics I have used has always tested but has never suggested I do so. Why should they be bled every year?
Amp ceramic pads are awsome I have to say , expensive but worth the money all day long , saves abit of weight from the standard steel backed pads too 👌
Try drilled out water bottles next.
@WildernessMusic_GentleSerene I mean it's not the worst idea 🤔 🤣🤦♂️
What if I want to install a smaller disc rotor? Do I also need to buy an adapter or the same caliper that works with 160mm would work with 140?
If it's a Shimano or SRAM disc brake caliper you're working with:
Front: Flip the adaptor plate upside-down
Rear: Remove the 160 mm adaptor
Idea for a video: If aero is king from 12km/h how would compare aero road bike to tt bike with drop handelbars on mixed course.
Upgrade? But standard hasn't been fine-tuned yet, we're still waiting for rub-free/squeal free disc brake set-ups.
the Carbon Ti rotors so pretty, though sadly not the lightest.
they are bling though, if that counts?!
@@gcntech Ashima AiNeons are bright bling 10g lighter!
Is this video for hydraulic brake systems only?
No.
Cycle 1 brake pads semi metallic are the best in my opinion...
So if I want to change my front rotor from 140 to 160 all I need to do I flip the mount or do I need an adapter?
On some the adapter it is standing on is made to be flipped
it depends, most will have the markings on them if this is possible!
#askgcn - hi guys, is disk brake cleaner the same as the drive chain cleaner? I see some brands market both as one item. Thanks.
Can I mix and match disc rotors from other brands?
you can yes! but the calliper may need adjusting
I ride what could be considered "all terrain bikes". I am not a mnt biker, and dont really enjoy the GCN mnt bike network's "STOKE"............ I commute and camp with my 'older' bikes, & most of my riding is for pleasure on paved roads, gravel shoulders, and trails. while I'd never buy most of the bikes or products you review here, I learn non stop about shop tech and maintenance, and enjoy being entertained by your topics. thank you from Montana, USA.
thanks for the message and support!
"He who brakes has already lost"
-Sun Tzu, art of cycling
Semi-metallic pads make a difference.
shimano have 2 type of break pad for same model. One of it just have extra cooler and thx for the information its useless cuz price double it
00:28 "Nor are the rotors EITHER"....................please let us maintain the queen's english here lol..................................and I am the Arab German !!!
Sintered pads for life. I’ve yet to meet an organic pad that was worth anything.
Biggest upgrade for Shimano/SRAM DB is to put Campagnolo rotors on.
I don't understand how an aluminium core helps heat dissipation when steel is a better conductor of heat?
This sounds like we need to do some science!
Hi, good question. Aluminium conducts heat considerably faster than steel and is why it's used for this application. Depending on the types used, up to 15x faster heat transfer.
@@GCNalex Well who'd have thunked it. I shall now buy by replacement Ultegra Discs! Thanks Alex.
1:20 what's wrong with good ol' non-carcinogenic isopropanol, Hmm?
More. I want hydraulic, all/more pistons, huge rotor, & pads that can move heat....1992 Cannondale M900 with 320lbs hammering on it (i'm about 220, and 80 of gear, plus bike). And as my daddy red white and blue bald eagle taught me, the correct answer when wrenching/building....More.
Trials style hydraulic rim brakes might be what you're looking for.
So basically you are saying we should avoid that super cool Carbon spider rotor that got us to click on the video in the first place?
Y right
Next let to learn jump out bic. W.i.
Seems like Olly brought home some of those prototype tyre from Pirelli. 😅
suitcase was full!
A decent brake bleed normally solves most problems.
So bigger rotor is an upgrade. 700 is just fine than 😂
For the ultimate upgrade - rim brakes.
I didn't think that you could upgrade your disc brakes to rim brakes.
Let us know if you find a way!
@@JonCannings If you replace the fork, and the left STI (in the US)(right in the UK). with a rim brake fork, you're halfway there.
If it's a steel disc brake frame, you could braze in a rear brake bridge, and add the matching cable shifter.
(Or you could just buy a used 2015 bike)
Bet there are more beautiful disc-equipped bikes to show this. That Pinarello is hideous.
Stand uuup if you love rim brakes
Stand uuup if you love rim brakes
................
When it rains - you’ll be *sprawling* on the tarmac or lying in a ditch with those rim brakes
@@petersouthernboy6327 I ride year-round in Seattle with rim brakes and have never been sprawling on the tarmac or lying in a ditch. What are you talking about?
@@petersouthernboy6327
Rimbrakes are as powerful as disc.
The owner. Is determined by the tire. When the tire skids you overreach. In all circumstances you can reach this with both sistem
@@beeldpuntXVI Oh Jeez this thread is bizarre
The simple answer about upgrading disc brakes: Campagnolo.
Because?
I must admit, I’m not a Campy fan - but they do seem to get high praise in this department. Did they partner with someone to make them?
From memory, Campagnolo were doing something with "Formula" a number of years ago!
@@gcntech I honestly don't know about the rotors, but the calipers were, AFAIK, in corporation / collaboration with Magura? I know from my own experience Campa rotors are excellent.
Whoever brakes has already lost
yikes!
I agree. They're made to slow you down. They also add weight and make the bike less aero.
breaking is the pointless transformation of speed into heat
perfectly analyzed !!
Why bikes cost so much 😢 damn wish i had a bike
Just know can y ride motorcycle
All the rim brake guys are typing out letters of complaint on their old typewriters
😂
I think you fail to understand that the "rim brake guys" are just immune to the marketing and are quite happy with what they've got and for valid reasons.
Friction coefficient.
Contact area.
Application pressure.
Don't buy discs with big slots. This looks pretty but grossly reduces the contact area. Look at the discs on your car, or any car.
But my car discs have drill holes and are grooved. But then again, they stop lots more weight
A cheap massive increase in disc brake performance = sintered metal brake pads
Ferodo is a great motorcycle brand if available for bicycles?
The easiest way to upgrade your disc brakes, is to buy a bike with rim brakes.
How to upgrade your Disc brakes:
Switch to Rim Brakes 😜
Haha have fun exploding ur rims down the mountain or flying off when it starts raining😁
@@fredrikwergelandsongstad4095when does that actually happen?!
Enjoy that ditch or utility pole when it rains with those rim brakes
ah, the old rim vs disc debate will never get old!
@@petersouthernboy6327 You've posted this sort of nonsense on every thread here where someone has said they like rim brakes. You must feel very triggered by people who use rim brakes to make so much effort... That seems utterly bizarre, given that practically all bikes nowadays are sold with disc brakes. Why on earth do you feel so strongly about the subject to go out of your way to be childishly insulting to people?
If your brakes are not capable of locking your wheel, then you have the worst brakes in the world. Your brakes are only as good as the traction of tire to road surface. Everything else is just modulation. All brakes are powerful enough, if brakes are fading on long descents, then you have a real problem and you should contact the manufacturer. I live in the most mountainous region of the world with contrasts like 700 feet to 15,000 in just 50 miles. Long descents heat my brakes to where water will boil on the rotors. No problem with braking and the pads last a very long time. I am using the cheapest brakes in the world like Tektro Novela.
GCN Tech: "How to Upgrade Your Disc Brakes"
Answer: "Revert to Rim Brakes. Upgrade done!"
Looks far too complicated. Just use rim brakes
Get rim brakes mate
Disc brakes? No thanks.
curious, why not?
Assumptions:: Bleed brakes, brakes not rubbing, warped rotors, can't brake for long periods of time, extra cleaning of brake rotors and pads, etc... OR stick with rime brakes. #savetherimbrake