Installing a Lovejoy-Style Coupling to a Meat Grinder
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- čas přidán 16. 01. 2018
- The meat grinder that was repaired with a new pin a few weeks ago is back, and the owner of it wanted a flex-drive coupler installed so he can adapt a better motor drive to it. It was a bit of a challenge in some respects, but after a bit of fiddling it came out very functional.
Thanks for watching! - Zábava
I like how you approached this. Enjoyed watching how you overcame the real world issues that pop up when doing this sort of thing
Thanks!
Hi Everett.
I LOVE the way your demonstrating using the (fixed) steady rest and machining a taper at the same time. Machining cast iron (I love cast iron) don't avoid it just clean your machines thoroughly after you've done. This is like a motorcycle Cush drive. Great video Everett from your back catalogue. Tony.
Thanks Tony, it was just the only way I could figure out how to mount the thing and make it run true. After posting it I found out those coupling systems are called Lovejoy couplings, wish I knew the correct name before making the video, lol!
@@EverettsWorkshop They're like a dog clutch on a 1949 HARRISON LATHE without the rubber lol...……………………..... Had/Sold the Tee shirt lol...……….
Nice solution Everett... meeting a challenge is always satisfying. Looks like your shop is way warmer than mine!!
Thanks! Yes, getting a heater installed was a few bucks but it makes it much more pleasant to work in there. That, and the better half has a warm car to get into, which makes her life easier.
very nice repair everett . iknow the feeling of satisfaction after makeing a sucsesfull repair and it turns out great. good job thx 4 sharing.
Thank you!
o
Well done. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks!
That's called a love joy coupling btw your a true friend for doing the machining for him
Cool, thank you - I didn't know the actual term for what kind of coupling it was, all I knew is that my buddy Larry needed it fit to the end of the shaft. I've gotten comments about putting too much work into it, but he had all the parts on hand (former farmer) and just needed this fit together so he didn't have to buy a commercial unit. Besides, having a circle of buddies is what it's about - each one can help in different ways. Thanks again, this is part of why I put stuff out there - I am good with being corrected by professionals so I can grow. We are all still learning.
Nice and perfect work
Thank you Hamid, I admit this was an earlier video so it's not as refined as I would like it, but hopefully the coupler attachment idea is useful for you!
I used a 10mm bolt to hold a big nut to the hager and then I use a 19mm socket with a 18 volt electric Ryobi drill and it works perfectly and I can still use the handle if needed. Great video but not everyone as those fancy equipment, and I’m not sure how many people will go spend $200 on a customization labor for a $20 meat grinder, you are doing it as a friend and that’s different
Hey, that works! Never thought of using a cordless drill, all my stuff is Ryobi 18V too. This little project really was just doing a favor for a friend - he was designing the setup and wanted to use a Lovejoy style coupler in his design. I totally get that not everyone has cheap access to this sort of equipment but on this one I wanted to give my friend a hand and thought it might be interesting for some other people.
Good job i like .From Mongolia
Thank you, I hope the video was useful for you!
I lived in a predominantly Amish community that farmed with tractors ;no electric or autos guy came by my shop one day and asked me to make a driveshaft ffor his tractor to run the same type grinder. i had reservations about safety but I made it for him.
It all comes down to the end user and the level of risk he/she is willing to work with. In my friend's case he was cool with running it with Lovejoy coupling to the jack shaft and understood that he's the designer and I was just fitting parts together to his design. He knows he is the one with the liability on this one, and he's also a friend I've "horse traded" stuff with over the years.
Nice carefully executed procedure! I would like to see what type of motor and what RPM is best for this type of grinder. I have a similar project and need to figure out how to get the torque needed without too high of RPM. Have looked at several different options on line, but they don't give enough info as to power, torque, and RPM. Some are way to expensive for my budget and I would like to just do the build one time. One motor I almost bought has a variable speed drive, but don't know if it would maintain torque through the RPM range and it can be ordered with different gear ratios. My grinder is stainless steel and has a square drive to fit Kitchen Aid machines which are very expensive and would need to be used for many different things to make the price worthwhile. The terminal end of my auger shaft has a 7/16" square drive. Have ordered a refurbished Kitchen Aid machine and hoping it will be worth taking the chance on.
Thanks, I didn't see the fully assembled unit after Larry put it together because he moved shortly after doing this for him. As for the KitchenAid ones, I've seen them and although I have a big mixer of theirs I don't have any attachments for the power take off at the front. As it is, it's glitching on the control switch so need to fix that so it can be useful again for its normal mixing functions. Even if you don't like how it grinds you'll really like the KitchenAid for all the other stuff it can do!
Just put a large pulley on it and use any old 1700 rpm motor with smallest pulley you can buy. Likely you can get a metric pulley to fit that Porkert shaft without all this work... ON EDIT: no you can't. The shaft is tapered and that big pulley would soon eat up the nylon bushing. Direct drive is needed @ 175 rpm.
Please insert the Arabic translation. I respect you a lot. You are creative and I learned a lot from you
Thank you, I do appreciate your kind words. Sadly I do not know Arabic - at times I question how fluent Google Translate is, and it would be the only tool available to me to do so. I've thought about subtitles for a while now and would gladly add them (I'm a language nerd and love learning about languages and how each one works) but it is a matter of time right now with work and a family. I can't promise anything right at this moment, but will do what I can :)
Como se llama esa pueza en español
Por favor ayudame
I did something similar a number of years ago but we used a shaft with two universal joints on it, I think the shaft was part of an old bus steering column. All that was needed was to remove the handle from the meat grinder and the universal joint fit right over the shaft like it was made for it. The other end went to an electric motor the same way. It worked but ran too fast for the grinder.
In the end, we went with about a 14" belt pulley affixed with two set screws and a belt off the same 2hp motor.
We also built one to run with a belt and a 12v starter motor to grind chum on the boat. It was mounted on the stern to grind and spread chum off the back of the boat for fishing. We made up a 4" pvc elbow and length of pipe pointing downward behind the boat and would grind bait for chum directly into the water.
The speed reduction is very much necessary on a setup like this, my friend Larry used a pulley setup as well. Never thought of running one on a 12v motor though, that is genius for a chum grinder!
@@EverettsWorkshop We used a starter from an old Buick diesel engine, cut the nose off the starter and mounted a 2.25" pulley and welded two angle brackets to the main body of the starter so we could bolt it down to a board and pole to fit in a rear rod holder. Fish to chum juice in a blink of an eye!
We even added a reverse switch, which was easy with a DC motor, in the event it got jammed up or something wouldn't grind. Never found anything it wouldn't turn into chum though. We had about a 10" driven pulley. I don't think we ever measured the RPM but it seemed about right. I used a cheap horn button and a Ford starter relay to run the motor.
Seems like if you removed the square drive pin on the grinding end and used a center in that hole and on the other it would turn true. Or if one had a large enough bore on the chuck, you might be able to chuck right over the 'spirals'. Interesting because I need to do this also
Yeah, sadly the lathe wasn't big enough to go over the auger flighting so i just had to do the best I could. We just wanted to retain the taper so it could be used at times with the original crank handle.
I guess I missed why when you turned the shaft you could not make it a straight shaft and a straight bore on the coupling. Why did it need to stay tapered?
That is a good question - to keep it still usable with the hand crank it needed the taper. The fit and finish of the tapers wasn't super tight tolerance from the factory but it needed a more precise taper to hold the Lovejoy coupling and not have too much runout. Thanks for coming by!
I like this video am from Indonesia.
Thanks Mumun, it's just one part of the whole machine that Larry was putting together. I wish I could have gotten a picture of the finished machine but Larry has moved away now.
I think I will use a Lovejoy coupler end at 3/4" and just take the feed screw down to 3/4 also. I don't believe the taper has much value here.
That makes total sense if you'll be using your grinder under power all the time - if you have a mill then a keyway to match the Lovejoy coupler might not hurt. We just wanted to be able to reinstall the crank if needed. Granted, one could make a new handle with a 3/4" straight bore too, so if/when I do this again perhaps the taper will be removed and a straight journal cut like you're doing.
Can meat grinder be usefull for making garlic paste...? Pls. suggest.
I've never tried making garlic paste with a meat grinder, but I think it would be worth a try. It would be interesting to try both the small hole plate and the large hole plate to see which works better. Thanks for stopping by!
J'aime bien !
Merci beaucoup!
E lectric motor 3e3
@@EverettsWorkshop on your site , BUT
Nice creative set-up, Hope you're installing a gasoline engine on this meat grinder, would like to see that... lol
Nope, my friend's just running an electric motor through a speed reducer. Still wouldn't want to get your fingers in it!
We could see a nice job on the video, but unfortunately the drive to the grinder is not enough, because when the grinder is cleaned there is a problem with removing the connector from the grinding shaft.
Thank you for the kind words! I see what you're saying, but that's why there's a pin through the coupler and the tapered shaft end - he wanted the hole so he could remove the pin and then the coupler comes off the shaft to allow cleaning. Sorry if it wasn't clear why we drilled the cross hole. Thanks for coming by and sending me a message!
Very nice work brother very nice but if you're a video to him using it grinding meat or the moose
Thanks! Unfortunately I didn't get any footage of my friend doing up his moose, and as crazy as it sounds he sold his home and business here in the area this fall and moved away. He did tell me that once he got the right belt reduction it worked quite well, but that's all I got from him. Sorry about the lack of action shots.
What a great idea. I do a lot of hunting.that would work great for making hamburger.
Thanks, but it was actually my friend Larry's idea to put the drive coupling on his grinder. He's got it up and running now through a reducer from an electric motor. Thanks for stopping by!
If you like paint and shavings in your beef
Very good bles
Thanks, my friend Larry was happy with it, that's what mattered to me
très bien
Merci beaucoup!
Nice this machine, but what made this typ tea lives grinding machine?
I have never tried to grind tea leaves, I'm not sure if this style of grinder would work
I like thank you for your thikliese
Thank you, I'm glad you could find it useful!
Сколько смотрел на Авито так ни разу и не видел такую.
Извините для мои плохо Русский язык, я ето учусь но ето медленно. Я не знал о сайте Avito до сих пор. Я пошел к нему сегодня вечером, и это круто, чтобы увидеть, что это продается в Подмосковье. Спасибо за посещение моего канала!
Can you do one for me I have the grinder just need that piece and motor
Hi William, I appreciate your faith in me but the thing is that I'm so far behind in the shop I think I'm ahead. There are a number of projects that are months behind and people waiting for some of them. That and shipping of a meat grinder would likely be cost prohibitive due to weight and I'm not sure where it would need to be shipped to and from. If you're not in a hurry and would still like to discuss the idea, by all means send me an email and we can figure out if it will work out or not. One way or another, thanks for coming by!
Larry good morning Blessings
Nasza maszynka ALfA😃
Yep, the Alfa grinders seem to be pretty good, lol!
The polish meat grinder
I thought it was a Polish brand. It works well, but that's not a huge surprise as most Polish equipment (including some of my favorite micrometers) seems to be of decent quality.
Were do you get at couplings
These are Lovejoy-style shaft couplings. Not sure where you are but they sell them at Princess Auto here in Canada. In the US McMaster-Carr would probably carry them, otherwise if you're in the UK or Australia I'm sure a local industrial supply house could get you hooked up.
I seen where you replied to another commenter on how it was about the challenge of the project and I know exactly what you mean by that :o) but the owner should know better than to start with that mass produced china-made junk if they're going to do these type of modifications themselves or have someone else do them... spend just a few more bucks to get the ones made in USA or Germany. Can find them on Ebay and that's what I ended up getting after our china-made model cracked which was ok since I already planned on getting another brand since it actually had a crooked worm shaft that was noticeably a problem when cranking it along with the generic plastic bushings! After ours cracked and I seen inside where it cracked, I started cutting through various places on the grinder and could easily see how these items are made under china's strict no-quality-control process and so what you're actually getting is not the "same quality and works just as good as the name brand but at a lesser cost" sales pitch we are often given
Wow, I haven't heard of meat grinders cracking before! Kind of crazy that yours did, but I can assure you that my buddy has had this one around for a while and that it is a Polish-built unit from an Italian company. I was curious myself as to where the Alfa's were made so did some research. Glad you found a better unit to replace your failed one. Thanks for coming by.
@@EverettsWorkshop
well nice to know he has a better model than what I initially suspected after seeing the plastic bushing, somewhat rougher castings, and such. Actually cracks are not that all uncommon... me and wife have seen quite a few between the different flea markets we hit in our area and the models are mostly no-namers, rough castings, and have chintzy plastic bushings. The one we have has Made in Germany, very even castings, and a brass bushing which I initially thought to be oil lite brass but the seller said it couldn't be because it is use for food preparation and so why there are little groves around the bushing to add just about any type of cooking oil as a lubricant which is especially nice if going to power the grinder with an electric motor
Back again. One big difference in our projects is that the grinder you are working is not the real PORKERT made in Czech Republic. Everything else seems to be Chinese reproductions of really variable quality. The auger in mine is much heavier at the handle end. I chucked the auger in with a 3 jaw on the grinding end pin [Not a bolt as you used] and a center in the handle screw hole. Barely measurable runout. I am taking @ .375 off the auger to accommodate a needle thrust bearing. I think I will take your method to keep the handle useable and bore out the coupler but add a set screw rather than a through hole. I am kind of wondering why you chucked that auger up at all, especially with a steady, seems you could have just sanded the taper.
You got me curious, and I'm not sure where this grinder was originally manufactured, and my friend Larry has now moved away or I would have popped over to have a quick look. Something rings a bell about it being Polish, but can't be 100% certain. Glad to hear yours worked well for you, I just approached it in a way that worked for what we needed to do on his setup. If I do this again (and I might, it has crossed my mind but time has been very short as of late) I may even try a couple different things on one that would be built for myself. Thanks for your input though, I do like to hear other ideas as well on how to do things!
@@EverettsWorkshop All of these grinders without a name on them are Chinese copies of variable quality. I have been digging deep on the # 22 and 32 size grinders, and all the copies spring from the USA Enterprise and the Czech Porkert. Not sure if Porkert copied Enterprise or vice versa. Universal was a US made unit but I find them on E bay with the name on them but the sellers admit they are Chinese copies. When I bought my new Porkert #22 several years ago- and it was a long search - the box said made in Poland. ^The castings still say made in Czechoslovakia. Seems Porkert went out of business and someone in Poland picked up the equipment. Amazon has a Chard #22, Chinese, and wildly differing reviews. Its only $30 so I am getting one just to fool with. I found one more #32 made in Columbia [Odd] but reviews say it is really bad news, machining all off. Northern tool sold a good Chinese copy of a #32 some years ago and it had a 12" red pulley and ball bearings on the auger with thrust bearings. No longer available but I did find it for sale on Alibaba in China and many versions thereof. Here is an interesting one, dirt cheap, but $400 to ship here: www.alibaba.com/product-detail/No-22-Handle-Operating-Cast-Iron_60574510758.html?spm=a2700.wholesale.deiletai6.2.48165911tK2mJp I found a INA needle thrust bearing and thrust washer that fits perfect at ZORO [Graingers] for the Porkert, .875 x 1.125" for a few bucks. Had to mill a bit off the auger end to keep the length.
Are you in Canada
Yes, I live in Alberta. Are you in Canada as well?
hope he can find a motor with slow RPM....or it will gall the the shaft to the cutting plate...
Larry ran the whole system through a reducing speed pulley system, so it slowed the grinder auger shaft down a lot from motor RPM's. It also needed to be slowed to increase the torque on the shaft for when he's grinding meat as it shouldn't be running too fast for that anyway.
menyimak
I'm sorry Achmad, but I do not understand what that word means. Thank you for coming by, though!
I got my rig running, still need to add a guard and feed pan. I used a .875 bore INA needle thrust bearing and a plain one to butt the nylon. I had to reduce the length of the auger by .145 The bearing makes a huge improvement over the factory and only $4 and US made. ZORO. 3/16 through hole for a pin. I had to bore out one end of the coupler to .75. czcams.com/video/asCPLzvwK4Y/video.html After through research, the Porkert or USA Enterprise #12 are the only units I would bother with. ALL of the Chinese castings are scary bad. Be sure to use INOX plates and cutters only - again the market is saturated with cast iron knives from China.
I just popped over to your video and you did an awesome job on your unit! I agree, adding that bearing would be the best way to go, if I ever do another grinder that will be the way I go. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and how your grinder came out, I like it!
@@EverettsWorkshop Thanks much, Starting a new build on an OLD Enterprise #12 with a SEW gear motor, direct drive. $1200 list, new on Ebay for $50. The castings from the 20's or 30's in these Enterprise tinned units are superb, especially the auger.
your chopper is made of aluminum?
Not aluminum, but cast iron. Last I heard from my buddy Larry it works pretty well now that it's assembled with the motor and gearbox!
Seems strange you didn't just use the center in the end of that shaft or just bore a pulley out to match the existing OD. Why all the work? Spin that thing fast with such a short throat and its a real finger chopper. In the video that bushing sure looks like it has needle bearings on it. Easier yet, just put on the coupler and drill straight through it all! Use a small bolt to secure. I have a lathe and mill, and I still would have just drilled through whatever I could find to put on the shaft.
I was just doing it up like Larry was asking for, and wanted to retain the taper so the original hand crank could be used. This meant the bushing needed a taper as well, even if we did cross-drill it for the quick release pin. The shaft end center wasn't on center sadly, and was threaded as well if I remember right. And believe me, Larry knows enough to keep his fingers clear of the intake, lol!
Super!!! ( ШЕМКИР ДЗЕГАМ )🎲🎲🎲
Спасибо друг!
You know there is an old saying about a friend in need is a friend indeed,,,, thats wrong, a friend in need is a pain inthe ass!!
Lol, well, sometimes yes, but I've been that friend in need at times too - when I moved last I was "that guy" with the piano so I asked for a few extra friends' help. Thanks for coming by
Testing out my build before proper mounting and feed dish: czcams.com/video/asCPLzvwK4Y/video.html&lc=UgzkJP_tA3ldhVDzMtZ4AaABAg
👈👍v good
Thank you!
Don't waste money on that junk you can buy a Tasen commerical grinder for about $200 it will grind 400 lbs per hour 1/2 hourse
I know a number of people have said to not bother with this stuff, but ultimately it's what my friend wanted to do as he had everything else on hand from his spare parts pile, including the motor, belts, pulleys, etc. So rather than buy new he just wanted to make what he had work and asked a favor of me to adapt that coupler to the shaft. It works for him and suits his purpose, plus he can still put the crank on it if he just needs to do a small grind job. Would it be worth buying all the parts and doing this with new stuff? Definitely not, I totally agree with you there. But it cost him a total of about 20 bucks for the project, so he's happy. I do appreciate you taking the time to comment though, thanks for coming by!
l
Hi Hans, not sure what you were going to type, but thanks for coming by and joining in!
extremaly dangerous.,have You spare figers?
Well, it's only as dangerous as the operator and I know my friend has used other equipment on the farm and has not gotten hurt. You are right though, if a piece of machinery like this is not used carefully, it can be very dangerous for fingers. Thanks for coming by!
The powered grinders have deeper throat’s to keep fingers away from the auger!
Hand crank won’t take a finger off , but this mod can and probably will.
@@videowatcher1040 it is about my reflexion about that mod, technically, this mod is fine but the danger of chewing fingers is very high as the throat of the grinder is lower than a finger lenght.
more light, show finished product first
For what it's worth, I would agree with you. As time has gone on I've tried to improve my videos within the budget I have to work with, and was continually adding light in my old shop as lighting was always a problem. I have since moved and, although the building out of the new shop has been moving at a glacial pace, I have more lights to put up and the walls will be painted this time.