How to Break In Your New Harley Engine - Piston Tech - Kevin Baxter - Pro Twin Performance
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- How to break in your new Harley engine. If you've bought a new bike, or had a new engine built and you want to know how to break in that engine in your Harley Davidson or other, then have a watch. Also...learn about piston technology and how they work.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
My dad was a heavy industrial mechanic. I grew up listening to the exact same explanation you preached over the last half hour. When others disagreed he would just sit , listening and smile. The reason I like your videos is knowledge. Thanks.
Wow, that is the most thorough engine break-in process I've ever heard of. I trust you tons sir. Great video. If I ever have engine work done in the south east, I'll be sure to have it done with your business.
I heard someone say the only reason the dealers tell you to not go over 3500 RPM is because they use a lighter weight oil in the engine for the break in period. That sound a little foolish to me. As you stated, we can ask 100 different people and get 100 different answers. Your explanation is very informative. excellent content, Thank you!
This is some next level content on youtube. Thanks for all the great info in your videos.
My pleasure! Thank you!
If every manufacturer would explain break-in procedure like you did here, there would be no misconceptions. Great video, sir 👍🏻
Thank you very much. And I agree. Lol
Kevin Baxter dang. I miss school sometimes 🙂 I’m subscribed, of course.
I enjoy your vids. I bought an 06 ultra Classic as my first Harley last year. After watching your video on cam chain adjusters, I bought the Screaming Eagle cam plate kit. You may have just saved me a ton of money, and my feelings for Harleys. Thanks so much for taking the time to educate us.
Great video. Couldn’t agree more. I have heard builders say that you can drive it like you stole it. Very scary. I always use 500 miles with new vehicles both cars bikes and snowmobiles. Go easy and up and down the rpm range nothing constant. My grandpa taught me that decades ago. 👍
if we are building a very high end full blueprint...big power engine....and there arent special piston coatings, etc....we will get the tune right asap then give it all shes got right out of the gate...but it depends on the intended purpose of the engine.
I just had catastrophic failure of my 114” Harley engine. And the more I watch your videos, the less I want to put more miles on that bike, till you or someone like you worked that motor towards bulletproofing the engine.
Maybe I’ll just sell it and buy a Metric.
Like Mike said, we all spend a lot of time, money, and effort building and enjoying our motorcycles. I recently broke down my twin cam and sent pictures of two different sets of cylinders to a reputable bike builder in Arizona. Both sets were scored and I was surprised to learn that the cause was either poor break-in procedure or improper warm-up of the engine. I plan on bringing my twin cam up to a 124. This time I will so take into consideration proper “break-in” procedure. Because nothing is worse than personally tearing down your bike due to poor performance. Then realizing the shop you trusted with all that money and dreams. Didn’t treat your machine with the same degree of intensiveness as they were their own. Everything you said in this video I have heard from the new builder. I was happily introduced to can’t wait to post results from my new build.
Good timing, Kevin. I bought a 20 Low Rider S one week before the Zombie Apocalypse hit. Between work and constant rain I've only been able to put 120 miles on it so far. Matter of fact, I have a sneaking suspicion that the universe hates me and this entire situation might be a result of my purchase. =P
I'll be listening to this in full tomorrow while I'm working. I'm a crane operator at an ocean port, and we're still working vessels. This will keep my mind off the fact that one of the 300+ people I work with just tested positive, after working for the past 2 weeks while feeling like shit and not telling anyone. But, the Dalia Lama says that I will receive total enlightenment on my death bed, so I have that going for me, which is nice.
Thanks man. Be safe out there and best of luck. Next I'm expecting to find out covid causes zombies.
Kevin you are by far the most comprehensive wealth of knowledge for V Twins on the web and I just wanna tell you how much I appreciate it thank you 🙏 sir
No doubt, that was the best explanation I've heard thus far on the function and purpose of all these components and the importance of doing it correctly! Excellent presentation Kevin, thanks!
Brian
Centennial Cycle Repair LLC
Good Video. I was a manufacturing Engineer for Waukesha Engines, Briggs and Stratton and Harley Davidson. Most folks are not aware how critical honing is. The days of running a ball hone or flap disk in a bore are long over. Suffocated gaging equipment is required to measure all the parameters such as Ra, Rq, Rvk, Rpk, Wa, Wq, Pa, Pq and more, typically made by Taylor Hobson and Hummelwerk's. When working at Harley, they called your skipping "singing rings." I have a new Tri Glide with about 550 miles on it. With the knowledge I have, I followed your suggested break in almost to the letter.
Kevin,
I learned a lot from this video. I always heat cycle 3-4 times, on the lift, then take the bike for an easy short ride 5- 10 miles then take it to my tuner. I've been using the auto tuners for my builds from "Fuel Motto"( they match up the air /fuel for me) which seems to be working good, then have it Dyno tuned after a few hundred miles. I only build basic street bikes, nothing like hi performance race bikes, however, I do realize how important a good time is. Thanks Again Kevin
😊
The best lecture I had. I know nothing about the technicality of the engine but I can relate this from my past experienced. That explain a lot on the outcome. Thank you sir. You're a great guru I say. Will apply this to my upcoming new engine.
Great information sir, appreciate your input.
Picking my RG up tomorrow at Werner’s House of HP, going from 103-107, 585 cams and CNC ported heads, his break in process sounds EXACTLY like yours. Thanks again, love your informative videos.
One of my absolute go to channels when I’m stuck on something. These guys are awesome 👏
These tech videos a really great mate keep them coming
Thanks for this video! I 'm always gentle with a new engine. Start doing small distances in curvie roads and I build up the pressure and rpm's for about 1000 mhls . And warming up the engine not by just let it idle , but start riding gentle so it warms up quicker to normal operating temperatures. When I think , after a few 1000 mhls the engine is ok , I'm not aftraid to trash it (on operation temp) . So many times I hear people say it's not important to brake in a new car because of the new machining techniques . I'm old scool so I stay with my own ideas. Kevin, your info has given me a better knowledge about the different materials. Thanks .
I just found your channel Kevin, and immediately subbed. I've been binge watching your videos and come away amazed and wiser each time. Thank you.
Thank you! Welcome! Glad to have you.
Thank you Kevin for all the professional education. I need to have my tune checked for sure and go from there.
Kevin, thank you for responding to my inquiry and thank you for your very informative information that I couldn't agree with you more. It those days i always went by what the spark plugs were telling me, even today when I am making setups that haven't been tried my knowledge alone with Supercharging that has worked for me very well so far and with your expertise on my new intakes under the Supercharger and coming up with the right mapping system for this would again, put me ahead of the curve. For example, I was running the gas tank under the seat 40 years before HD thought it was an original idea, along with so many other things that I designed too long ago. I greatly appreciate your input on my aftermarket parts catalog mostly concerning my new Supercharger system for the V Rod and other components that has been in the works for 9 1/2 years and I am almost done. I have orders from the largest distributors that I am currently unable to fill but, hopefully, this summer it will all come together. Thanks again.
Thank you. Good luck.
Had my 03 built, guy that did it said he had the rings seated, and informed me of the process Wich was much of what you stated. Told me take it out and run the piss out of it. Never had any issues
Great video! If I was building a custom bike you would be building the engine!
Great video. I’m learning so much from all your videos! Thanks so much for your time doing the videos.
Discovered your channel couple weeks ago, wow! Your channel is like a public message for Harley owners. I have had the honor of owning two new Harley’s 2020 Heritage and now a 2020 Electra Glide police edition. Neither of the dealers gave me advice on how to break in bike. I was advised to bring back after 1000 miles for service.
I am a rider I have 17,000 miles on the Electra Glide after 10 months. I had second thoughts about the extended warranty but after watching your channel for many hours I am relieved I have insurance. When the time comes to do engine work I will contact you. I hate to drive so far since I live in Nashville, Tn area but I don’t think I can trust anyone else to work on my engine. Thanks for taking time educating us
Glad all is well for you sir. My inlaws are near Nashville...I love that area. Dixon, Lyles, Columbia....great areas and not too far. ;) Thank you.
You do go to great depths in breaking in an engine, but that's what you do.
Just as a home mechanic and the times I've had a rebuilt motor I usually just do what you said at the end of your video as in vary the revs, don't over rev and not to load the motor.
Thank you for your videos Kev........
Most of my time for learning on You Tube is in November December and the begging of January but now it's time for gardening. This video came up and I couldn't resist viewing. I agree with everything you said. I've never been able to go to the lengths that you go through but close enough. 40 or more years ago I was taking my second welding course because I had finished my apprenticeship and two journeyman's courses and I needed something to do besides go home to the first wife. Anyway, Several factory reps.came In and demonstrated products. the most memorable was a device that measured true torque. and the value of assembly lube as opposed to common oil. He showed 10 to 25 percent difference in actual true torque.So the first time I saw you explain the use of assembly lube I was convinced you where great. Now your explanation of why not to use it on the parts that need to mate and break in well, that puts you at the top. I've known many brilliant mechanic/machinists, Never anyone as good as you.
Hi Kevin! You are awesome to listen and watch your videos. Such knowledge. Thanks for all advices. You are polite and professional. Thanks a lot for a great program. Greetings Peder 😊🇸🇪👋🏻
Broken in as you recommended, and it runs perfectly. It does not use any oil, the drain plug magnet is clean, and you have a copy of my oil analysis from the lab. Job well done sir, thank you very much. ...LT
All is good in the hood my friend. Glad that beast is serving you well. Thank you my friend.
I bought a 1982 FXRS Shovelhead right off the showroom floor. Put 500 miles on that bike that day @ 60mph. Changed out that oil & oil filter. Never had a single engine problem. That was a very nice bike and it was all bone stock. This is another great video with tons of info.
I bought a 1200 sportster brand new in 1995. Had to drive immediate first 30 miles on interstate between 60-75 mph. Tried to vary speeds after that. It was about 50 F that first ride so that probably was helpful. Sold bike with 50K on engine running like new. Changed Mobil 1 15W-50 every 3-5k.
Excellent video!
My engine break in story . Mechanic built bottom end and cylinders,pistons and fitted heads. Tuner put a safe tune in, ran the bike 500ks tuner put a final tune in then 1500ks later Compression is now 170psi and leakdown is 50% . Now I’m going to have to start again . Listen to Kevin . Even after telling my tuner about what was said in this video ,he still did it his way and I followed his instructions. Stupid me. This time I will do it Kevin’s way 100%. But,First time researching and sourcing parts , I did put the rest of the motor together myself and fitted it . I’m not a mechanic I just watched Kevin’s videos amongst others. I got 103hp and 113 torque out of my 103-107 build so even with 50% leakdown I did ok 😆. I’m going to re-build the top end again myself in the next couple of weeks, Kevin’s way 👍
Very good information! I'll need to watch your other videos too. I have built some old school V8s, dirt bikes etc. in the past and recently started playing with Harleys. One thing to remember also is to clean all the parts good before assembly. I just built 124 M8 with S&S parts, 525cc injectors, 64mm throttle body etc. I did some port work on the throttle body too. I had heads ported with new valve job by retired old school cylinder head guy who used to be Joe Mondello's student. Ended up with 11.2:1 static compression. I use ThunderMax tuner, set the cruising AFR to 13.5:1 and 13:1 for heavier throttle. Completed couple idle heat cycles per S&S directions and now I'm in the end part of the 500 mile break in. I kept the rpms in 2500-3500 rpm range for first 50 miles, then tried few times up to 4200rpm near 100 miles. I have now about 250 miles in, tried to roll to 5000 rpm twice. Man, this thing pulls good! No smoke coming out of exhaust and plugs look decent, looking good so far. Can't wait to finish the 500 miles, change the oils and see what this puppy can do in 6000 rpm range. I have oil catch can and vacuum pump ready for installation, not that popular solution with Harleys? For now, I routed the cylinder head oil fumes out after head PCV valves so the air intake stays clean. Keep up the good work!
Absolutely. Great job on your build. Glad it worked well for you! Thanks for the comment.
Another great video. Thanks for the education. I’ve learned so much since subbing your channel. I’ll probably never used most of what I’ve learned, but I love knowing it.
Thank you sir
Phew! 😅 I used oil not lube in my rings , cylinders and jugs, learnt from an old school builder and even took some crap so I’m glad you said something Kevin because I was gonna ask . I followed the Zipper’s instructions on my 95” KB forged pistons, for the most part. So far, so good and you programmed my tuner so I have no doubt all is well. She is smoother and quieter than my 88 except below 2k there is more vibration which just feels like more muscle to compliment the rest of the build. 02 Night Train, Mikuni 42, RB LSR 2 into 1, Fueling plate, pump and lifters, S&S 510c, S&S 79cc heads, Zipper’s 95 flat top 9:1 bbk, DTT ignition, dyno one month away and counting at Rob’s in Gardner MA. 9.75:1 static 9.3:1 correct...ish
Take my money! Jesus.. i swear your the most competent engine guy i have ever heard!.. btw i come from aviation and have heard it all on breaking in engines.. you understand it better than anyone else I have ever heard talk about engines.
Very very kind of you to say Steven. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I greatly appreciate the complement and am happy to hear you enjoy it.
@@KevinBaxter I'll be in touch I have a sporty that in the winter I'm going to want to hop up and get on the track a bit more next season... mix it up with the metric guys ;-)... too bad buells are getting so rare.. i run an FTR1200... amazing bike.. but too much electronics for my style and makes me a worse rider on the track... faster, but sloppy with electronics.. i want get back to simple... I'm also trying to start collecting nice evo big twin bikes, 90s era.. . I'll be looking on your website if any come around..
Man great teaching, your are gifted! One of the best topics discussed in the channel🙏🙌
Glad you enjoyed it. i appreciate it.
Wow! Just want to say thank you, thank you, thank you, I definitely enjoy your videos. You are definitely a cut above all others.
You have a great ability to explain details.
I built tc88 to 98. 2003 fxsti a simple project cam tensioner turn into a rebuild
Head work, cam, cc chambers, scavenging oil pump, cp pistons ft 9.5-1
Ok break in
I used assembly lube on the pistons and rings. Interesting thought you gave on using regular oil. I prefer to "wash" the inside and clean away debris.
Crank the motor until the oil pressure gauge had a reading.
Put the plugs in, fuse for fuel pump and ran the engine for about 30 seconds. Let it completely cool then took it for a short ride. Let it cool again.
Then took it for a ride at night temp about 65 degrees on the parkway. Accelerated slowly up to 50, staying under 2000 rpm, then down shift to increase vacuum to suck up oil to get to the top ring. I change the oil/filter (amsoil 20/50) at 50 miles, then 150 then 500. It took forever to get to 1000 miles. Now I get on it and does it pull in 6th
I wish I would have found your video BEFORE the rebuild.
Thanks
Did you use amsoil throughout whole break in? I heard to use dyno for break in then switch whatever oil you like. Thoughts?
I've was never really taught the science behind engine break in i always did a few heat cycles and kept to rpm varying along with cool downs and increasing the amount of rpm range I go through. All my motor have preformed very well of my racing career in motocross.
i was using assembly lube on the skirt and rings before. not going to anymore that makes total sense!
It's great to finally know the whys of how this works and i can explain it better to my customers who i build motors for.
Thank you kevin!!!
Thanks for sharing
I had a supercharged cobra mustang that was built with forged pistons and blowby was bad and we fixed it by switching them out to hyperutectic, but had to reduce boost a little. This is an amazing description thank you
Best description of ring chatter I've heard, only recently found your videos and have been bingeing. I had a cupboard full of ECU's, injectors and carburetors specifically for running in engines on an engine dyno, each one is specifically tuned for a particular build and marked to get as close as possible to ideal AFR for bedding in, then replaced with the ones belonging to the engine and tuned to match the particular application the engine has been built for. Also send the filter with the oil to be analyzed for metal content, particulate size, ash content etc.. Been retired for a few years now and still dabble when I get the chance, the changes in technology march on, and yet remain much the same regardless. Just bought a new bike (FLSB) with an M-8 and I'm looking forward to stripping it down for a look see, either when it's out of warranty, or when I decide to say stuff it and open it up for a bit of massaging (watched the vid on crank alignment, food for thought) and maybe a few more cubes.
thank you sir. that is a great idea. nice to read about things done proper. good on ya sir!.
You do an excellent job explaining your video's Thanks Kevin
Right on Kevin! Very good presentation. Many folks will not follow these guidelines. This is one of those subjects that, unfortunately, very much wrong info gets put out about it. With you 100% on your advise here.
Thanks Rick! Hope many take the advice. I appreciate your membership sir.
As a consumer I have all that equipment available for me to follow all your advice. Yé!
Last engine I broke in (60's Harley Sprint SS-250) I idled it on first startup for 5 minutes. Cooled completely. Second start, slowly revved up to mid range a few times from cold for 5 minutes. Let cool overnight. 3rd cycle, 15 minute ride around town. Loading the engine up with ¾ throttle at lower mid range rpm and not sitting at any rpm aside from stopped for traffic. Immediately changed the hot oil with tons of metal and glitter. Next 500 miles rode normally while loading up the engine and accelerate to a limited rpm. Every 100 miles, increasing limit by 500 (starting with 3k). Changed oil at 500 to find very fine material in suspension. Great compression, no smoke, no consumption, good milage, runs like a top. VR1 Valvoline 20w-50.
I bought a new 07 heritage the dealer said just about the same thing as you my bike has 62000 miles on it and no oil usage I use mobile 1 15/50 on two twin cams now no issues I do understand that the 07s had crank issues also auto primary chain over tightening ever time I service the bike I ck that chain hot always has 3/4 to 1 in play so far good she's been all over the country, thunder header air cleaner and down load. Kevin I did burn a rear piston and cylinder on shovel years ago I wasn't patient enough my bad. Really enjoyed all of your videos keep up the great work greetings from Oregon
My brother bought a 2007 Dyna 96 CI, new. Road it about 25-30 miles and the ran the heck out of it. Dumb ass!! We also built his 06 Ultra classic 88 into a 95, with Bob Woods 555 cams and screaming eagle heads. We did do the heat cycles on it but did not go to the extent that you talked about. It has about 65,000 miles on the engine and is still running strong. Thank you for the insight you give on all of your videos! I wish you were here (Oregon) so we could have you build us some engine. Hard to find your kind of knowledge. We are 3rd generation mechanics our selves but still have a lot to learn. Never stop learning. Thanks again!! Mikel L. James
Again Mr Baxter. highly informative .I never considered heat cycles but I do now. I thought you stretching them out like a rubber band till thy losen up progressively increasing rpm with milage .Thanks for your time and insight .Sir you are a Mechanical patriot . Stay well
Thank you so much Scott! All the best sir. Your support is greatly appreciated.
2010 Road king . Just built my very Harley first engine, I was a little nervous when I hit the button for the first time . 103 ci barrels bored out to 107. Wiseco tracker forged pistons 10.5 1 compression, S&S crank,Andrews 54h cams,fueling cam plate and oil pump,fueling high volume lifters . Had the 103 heads port matched and plunge cut and stronger valve springs . Running twin screaming eagle exhaust and high flow filter. Started after build 3 or 4 times for a very short time ,less than 15 seconds. Goes in to tuners for a “safe tune” tomorrow . I’ll be sure to tell him not to give it too much fuel. I’v learned a lot from your videos and/or manufacturers product install vids.
Thanks for helping us all out 👍👍
Ps, I wanted a darkhorse crankworks bottom end , but the wait to arrive in Australian was too long. Next time 😉👍
Always great information Kevin, thanks for the education.
One smart dude. Best info I've ever gotten.
Glad it was helpful! thank you samuel.
Kevin you are amazing! Not only you know what you are doing but you are also explaining all these important details very well! I had a sportster converted from 883 to 1200 done by the dealership and the back piston head exploded after 4000km which destroyed oil pump and practically destroyed the engine. When I got the bike I was only told to not run too fast...
I appreciate that! thank you. hate to hear of your trouble with it.
You really think an “exploded piston” had something to do with the break-in or faulty workmanship/part?
Great knowledge and break in process. In the old days some people would say run it hard, for break in. ha! beat it into submission, again that sounds crazy. what I leaned today from your video, is the crosshatch specs. I never knew that. [ I am working on a 1976 shovelhead] Kevin, Thanks for another great video.
Excellent video Kevin. Thanks.
A wonderful tutorial on the do’s and don’t s. buy someone who really knows his stuff ! Thank you so much for your vid . I hope that many people will take heed . All the best from OZ. Keep up the great work eh. ? 👍🥃🇦🇺
I follow the manufacturers recommended break in. No lugging, constant speed, and the first 50 miles was easy on it. Used 500 miles as a target for breaking in. Normally changed the oil at 1k, even in cars. I wish I had of know about the heat cycles. Good video.
Another very informative video. Great job explaining in a way I found very useful. 👍👍
thank you
You are an excellent teacher Kevin!!!
Once again another excellent viedo. Thank you.
Thanks again! Appreciate the support.
Great break in tips. Will use!
Thanks Kev 👍
My break in of my Sport Glide was warm up first, do around 80km distance, revs between
1000 to 3000rpm, through all gears. (Once cooled down) Then a further 1500km between 1000 to 3500, no lugging etc, on / off throttle, Then dropped all oils, replaced.
Stay safe. Good video.
Wished I lived in the states, I'd be round at your shop most days. 😆
Well done. Thanks.
Perfect and thanks so much for taking time to explain this. I knew most of it you put it all together extremely well as you do,,
That's great info thanks for the hard work putting this together. Got a complete S&S motor coming and I will follow their breakin process to the T.
Glad to help
outstanding Kevin!
Great video. FYI... I just purchased two of your Baxter Garage T-Shirts. I'll make sure I'm wearing one next time I visit RDS.
Heck yeah man. I saw that come thru. I really appreciate it. I'll be up at RDS later this summer. Rob is a great fella and trusted friend. Have a great deal of respect for him.
Great job telling how to break it in, i sure learned somethings there you just told. I never heard, but never forget cause it makes cents better safe than sorry. well good job telling and showing and have a good one see ya next time see ya bye.
Great in-depth detail, very good.
Thank you kindly!
Brilliant, very interesting (as always) especially because I bought a new FXLRS 4 weeks ago and been worrying a great deal about this, found myself in the wrong gear a couple of times and slogged it for a couple of seconds, also when overtaking topped 4,000 revs for a few seconds with only 200 miles on the clock. What I would love to know is, do the factory do any test running and what my local dealer probably did on the first 5 miles which were on the clock when I collected the bike?
Many thanks for all your videos.
Would you suggest the same procedure for a stock engine on a new bike?
Lots of good info. I was in Germany some years ago and what they did before they sent the car out the door surprised me. They would put the car on a Dyno and run the car at 75mph for about 5 minutes then move it to the next station. It goes against all I had learned about engine break-in
Hi, just watched the video on break in. Back in the 70's I rebuilt a 324ci Oldsmobile engine. I used perfect circle chrome rings. Their break in procedure was to take it on the highway and from about 30mph accelerate to highway speed limit at full throttle. Then let it coast to 30 mph and do it again 9 more times. It never used any oil between changes up until I traded it for a Triumph TR 6 for my daughter. She called the 1955 Olds the BAT MOBILE. Not associated with todays technology I guess but thought it might give you a chuckle.
Awesome Explanation
I just purchased a new Try Glide, 2021 last week, 5.13.2021. I have about 270 miles on it now and I read the owners manual and I have not allowed it to get over 3500 rpm's so far.The 114 engine feels like it has some get up and go but I am being a good boy and not hot rodding my new ride. Thanks for the video.
Absolutely great vid. 🇦🇺
Kevin, my experience has been from automotive, by adjusting or varying the speed from 20 mph to 30 mph dropping it down then continuing maybe 25 to 35 then slowly increasing the speed but, keeping it under 60 for the first 500 miles. I continued the process with my bikes and seem to have an advantage after break in over everything I raced. Start with my brother's GTO then my 454 El Camino to my first Z1 900 bored to 1040 now to my Supercharged V Rod Muscle which You are going to help me with the maping when I am ready. Great series thanks.
My man....a car guy. As you know, that along with bikes has been in the blood since birth. I would agree with most of that especially with auto engines. I practiced that as well with air cooled bike engines as well but started to notice many years ago, that my procedure had to be modified for various reasons to break it in quicker. One, air cooled engines require more fuel than liquid cooled. Example...those cars you list, id tune AFR around 14.2 give or take at idle, and between that and 14.5 at cruise. These engines require 13.4 to 13.8 at idle and 14.1 give or take at cruise to keep them cool. So with the richer required mixture, I found if i break them in more aggressively, i get a better leakdown and CCP after break in than doing it using a slower less aggressive method. Great comment James...thank you so much for taking the time and for the sub. I look forward to hearing more from you.
Jesus Christ ! If I had to go through all of that whenever I buy a new bike I'd go nuts . I
have bought a lot of new Harleys over the years , and the way I break m in is I fire up the new bike and go . Very simple . And never , never have I had a single problem .
As always, Great information. So I take it that a new Harley off the showroom, just vary the RPM and speed for the first 500 miles and change the oil at 1000 miles and call it good.
Enjoyed . Thanks for sharing. Have a good weekend.
Thank you! You too!
Thank you so much for the video! I really appreciate it! I just purchased a brand new Sportster S with the Revolution motor in it. Is the information you gave in this video also applicable to liquid cooled motors? Thanks!
Very well explained, without a doubt. 👌
Very informative, Thank You !
when i bought my harley they pretty much told me what you said as to the 500 miles. cool.
Yeah same here. But does Harley start the engine at the factory? I know the first few minutes are important and dealership mechanics should ride a new bike for ~13 miles (or so I’ve been told).
When I purchased my 2020 Heritage, it had 1 mile on it! BTW, I about passed out when all the salesman celebrated my purchase by starting a new bike and revving the engine at high rpms! I purchased a 2021 SGS and you should have seen how the salesman treated the new bike he used to go on a test ride with me. Crazy!
Anyway, awesome video! I really appreciate your level of knowledge and professionalism.
In the '70s I worked Saturdays in a Triumph shop, and after a build, we would slowly raise revs to warm it, ride it around the block, and drop the oil. (2 qts)
Then maybe a 5 mile easy ride, various rpms, drop the oil. Then top it off (usually 3 qt. baskets) and let the break-in commence. You have to remember, they didn't have oil filters back then. And a lotta them ran velocity stacks...the wonder why they'd only get 20k out of the top ends...squids!
There's a big difference from a street engine compared to a race engine break in, great and informative video
Yes sir there is. Thanks!
What would you suggest on jetting for break in on a 95" build.Cv40 carb,andrew 37,9.8 compression? Thanks and great information
I just did a 98” on my 05 efi dyna and on the heat cycles get it to operating Temp four times letting it cool in between? Has wiseco forged piston ring kit no coding I have a power vision so I should be able to get the AFr at the 13.8-14.1 o and my cylinders were plateau honed they also used torque plates hillside did the jugs i’m getting very mixed opinions on this some say do not let it get to running temp for the heat cycles but I’ve been watching your videos for a few weeks and it seems to me really know your stuff thank you for all your help and knowledge you have helped me a lot and have educated me a lot through these videos
OK Kevin, 1o7 twin cam build S/S FW 570g cams flowed heads oil pump etc. followed my builders Break-in and in 60 miles I checked oil filter metal flakes silver . Round two I did the heat in method we at 1200 miles now...PEACE!
I'll definitely share.
Just finished my 124" Twin cam S&S build. My local shop definitely ran it threw a few heat cycles. Once done, they had about 30 miles on it. Then, I was told to ride her from about 2500-4500 RPMs. They cautioned me not to go below 2500 RPMs too often, as the engine doesn't like lugging. I'll say, once I started riding her, I definitely felt heard some pinging at the lower RPM ranges. Brought her back to the shop and they told me the ignition timing was a bit strong, and they pulled back a bit. Didn't hear the pinging much after that.
I've got about 280 miles on her now. Wondering what she looks like inside and how the rings sealed. I'd love to be able to send over a sample for testing. Curious how the break in process faired for me.
Thanks for sharing, Kevin. As always, your videos help me understand the what and why, better than anyone else.
Bought a 2020 114. Followed HD guidelines. First oil change the oil was black. Warranty teardown at 9k due to loud knock in the front cyl. Found large build up of oily carbon on the piston.
Rebuild with 122 upgrade. Followed HD procedure again. This time first oil change was clean oil. Looks like the rings seated properly this time.
If some crankcase pressure helps the second ring, then why the fuss to run negative crankcase pressure? For sure too much pressure causes issues, but being in a vacuum may be harmful as well?
Great video. I love how much info you include in your videos. How do you watch AFR at idle. I'm new to this and putting together a motor currently. Hope next week to turn it over. Thanks
Since you're new to this and tackling your first HD build, I'd like to help you out. Give me a call tomorrow at the shop and I can walk you thru some options. 6782269651.
Kevin i have a 2012 tri-glide, 103, tuner, true duels, air cleaner . i am going to replace rings and hone jugs . "oil burning". want to put gear drive cams but don't think it will take them. i don't have it pulled apart yet. so can i put gear drive on cams at rear of cam chest and chain from front so i don't have to worry with tensioner on rear of cam chest ? i am 6'3 380 and wife is 140 what would be a good cam that i can put in ? we do a lot of travel and sometimes i pull a trailer. thank you for all you do. love your videos.
I would only hone the jugs if...there is enough material to allow for it without exceeding piston clearance spec, if the cylinder isn't tapered too much, etc. Often, they are so far out, your effort will be wasted. Honestly...take off cylinders are cheap. Maybe 50 bucks. Find a set of 88 or 96 inch used cyls (3.75 bore), have them bored and honed to your current pistons if they spec right, then install new rings. I have many cores I could sell you for 50 bucks. 250 to bore and hone but youd want to send me your pistons to measure. As for the cam...a few choices. If you can, shoot me an email to kevin@protwin.com and I'll send you information tomorrow. Thanks.
Excellent precise explanation and information, I really like the technical information/tips in all your videos...... Question: what about break-in oil ? Coming from a V8 auto racing world, I have always used mineral oil and absolutely NO synthetic oil for the 1st oil change and/or the 1st 500 miles. Then synthetic. What would be your opinion on this ? And also oil weight, thinner oil for first oil, like 10W40 or 15W40, or even non detergent straight 30, 40 or 50 oil ? Thanks
I could listen to Kevin and Dan Fitzmaurice of Zipper’s all day long.
Great video, my break in on my 22 ultra was a 48 mile ride to the house, 2 weeks later it was loaded up for a trip to south west North Carolina, then 1100 miles on mountain roads, Harley said it would be fine, after watching this, now I’m worried
You discussed pistons what are wisco pistons made of how do they run tighter clearances
Hey Kevin, so am I’m understanding right on the 1st initial start up, you run it up to op temp without spinning a wheel on the road? I’m doing my 1st twin cam rebuild (amassing parts n cleaning at present) and your channel is off the chart thank you 🙏🤘😎🤘
That is correct. do that 2 or three times, letting it cool all the way down between each. that is called heat cycling.
Thank you thank you for the info. Appreciate it.
Loved the level of detail and "why" you shared. Not sure how you are able to use a bore scope during break in. But, loved it as I believe the break-in is massively important towards ending up with a good motor. I have 102k miles on a TC88A. Wear is at 16%. Uses no oil. I was old skool ... low RPM (progressively higher and varied), changed oil @ 1k miles and then to synthetic. Over-serviced after that (2k vs 5k changes).
Curious as to $'s charged for the break-in that you do, and how much time it takes. Thx for the vid. Love the extensive knowledge level.