46,000 people have watched this as of this viewing (9.9.2023) and it only has 455 thumbs up? For shame, people! This guy is giving you all the secret sauce! Show him the basic courtesy of a like!
I love your videos and I appreciate the fact that you reply to questions. I note that you are using relatively soft wood. It looks like fir or spruce. Would a hardwood be better or is it mostly the structure geometry that makes the structure strong?
great videos. thanks for sharing your knowledge; I am considering ordering one of your plans. Curious to complexity, when you are preparing your timber by cutting the , say 2 by 2 - just for simplicity sake - in half, are you using a consistent angle across all of the timber you prepare, or are you having to prep so many lengths at angle x, so many at angle y and so on? Trying to gauge how many different angles to manage and the complexity of the cuts for preparing the timber. Thanks for info!
Great video and answers lots of questions. Is there any issue using a wood deeper than the 2" you use? I'm hoping to insulate my dome and fill each triangle with a polystyrene. I want to keep the wood exposed internally. Thanks.
It is in the plans, the angle will vary depending on the type of dome you are building. I adjust the geometry so you only cut one angle for all the struts. Other sites have info on domes but you need to cut cut two separate angles. As long as you don't mix strut lengths and angles from different places you should be fine.
I suppose you have to make sure the wood you use for this is very well dried already? Or will all the screws still hold it together despite the normal shrinking and warping? Lumber's really expensive where I am and while I can get green lumber for less than half the price of lumber sold in stores, I don't think I can wait for it to dry out enough for use.
You should have no problem with timber that has been air dried for a week or two. As long as the wood all has the same moister content the shrinkage will be even so not to cause problems.
@@Geo-Dome Thank you for the response! Guess I will be trying to build a dome as a farmhouse for me to live in in the property we just bought. I think it will be the first dome ever in the entire province. My next problem is the cover. It's going to be for living in so it has to be relatively sturdy but I live in the tropics on a mountainside so it's going to be exposed to a lot of rain and shine. Blessings and I pray you are doing well!
I also thought it might be better to screw from the opposite side so the threads are biting i to the long grain. Would save a lot of time compared to drilling pocket holes considering the number you'd need!
It won't add much as end grain soaks the glue away. Possibly not worth it imho. When the frames are all assembled into a dome the side angles will mean the corners are compressed rather than pulled apart so the strength comes from the wood not the joints.
I am curious as to the species of wood you are using. I have noticed in some videos that you stick screws into the wood and then use a power tool to screw them in. Here in Oregon I have pine available that is soft enough to push a screw into and Douglas fir is harder. Is pine adequate? I am thinking for a first try it is mush easier to saw and otherwise work it.
46,000 people have watched this as of this viewing (9.9.2023) and it only has 455 thumbs up? For shame, people! This guy is giving you all the secret sauce! Show him the basic courtesy of a like!
Great video! Answers a lot of questions.
I love your videos and I appreciate the fact that you reply to questions. I note that you are using relatively soft wood. It looks like fir or spruce. Would a hardwood be better or is it mostly the structure geometry that makes the structure strong?
Great! Thanks a lot!
great videos. thanks for sharing your knowledge; I am considering ordering one of your plans. Curious to complexity, when you are preparing your timber by cutting the , say 2 by 2 - just for simplicity sake - in half, are you using a consistent angle across all of the timber you prepare, or are you having to prep so many lengths at angle x, so many at angle y and so on? Trying to gauge how many different angles to manage and the complexity of the cuts for preparing the timber. Thanks for info!
Great video and answers lots of questions. Is there any issue using a wood deeper than the 2" you use? I'm hoping to insulate my dome and fill each triangle with a polystyrene. I want to keep the wood exposed internally. Thanks.
very helpful thanks. can i ask where you get the angle to cut the 1" by 3/4" at? do you have to work it out or is it in the plans?
It is in the plans, the angle will vary depending on the type of dome you are building. I adjust the geometry so you only cut one angle for all the struts. Other sites have info on domes but you need to cut cut two separate angles. As long as you don't mix strut lengths and angles from different places you should be fine.
what angle do you rip the 2x2 at?
I think 1x1
THANKS - is your work shop made of old doors ?
what is the angle of cut to make the jig? plz
I suppose you have to make sure the wood you use for this is very well dried already? Or will all the screws still hold it together despite the normal shrinking and warping?
Lumber's really expensive where I am and while I can get green lumber for less than half the price of lumber sold in stores, I don't think I can wait for it to dry out enough for use.
You should have no problem with timber that has been air dried for a week or two. As long as the wood all has the same moister content the shrinkage will be even so not to cause problems.
@@Geo-Dome Thank you for the response! Guess I will be trying to build a dome as a farmhouse for me to live in in the property we just bought. I think it will be the first dome ever in the entire province.
My next problem is the cover. It's going to be for living in so it has to be relatively sturdy but I live in the tropics on a mountainside so it's going to be exposed to a lot of rain and shine.
Blessings and I pray you are doing well!
would a kreg jig be useful for this?
I also thought it might be better to screw from the opposite side so the threads are biting i to the long grain. Would save a lot of time compared to drilling pocket holes considering the number you'd need!
Would have loved to hear the video but the volume was to low. Thanks
Will it be ok to use wood glue along with the screw?
Yes why not.... it will give more strength...
It won't add much as end grain soaks the glue away. Possibly not worth it imho. When the frames are all assembled into a dome the side angles will mean the corners are compressed rather than pulled apart so the strength comes from the wood not the joints.
Where can i find the angle?
Necesito este video en españoooool, por fa orrrrrr.
gracias.
Has anyone here tried pocket screws?
I am curious as to the species of wood you are using. I have noticed in some videos that you stick screws into the wood and then use a power tool to screw them in. Here in Oregon I have pine available that is soft enough to push a screw into and Douglas fir is harder. Is pine adequate? I am thinking for a first try it is mush easier to saw and otherwise work it.