Interesting. As you say Ford has forgotten it. Mechanical parts are practically all Mazda and despite suggestions they are different usually fit OK. Only rust problems I have had are the edges of the sunroof - the seal retains water, and around the windshield. The latter probably due to paint damage when the screen was replaced. Handbrake sticking on was a serious problem on earlier models, requiring new callipers. The European models had a Bosch immobiliser which caused the distributor to fail and both items had to be replaced at around 60,000 miles. Worst current problem I have is the exhaust heat shields which seem to be mostly held together by rust.
Had the 95 mx6 from 35k to 275k over 10 years with the 2.5 5 speed only major flaw is the expense of the timing belt change water pump change . I also swapped I’ve rot the ZE engine and was a greet handling car and kept me safe . She was t boned and twisted the unibody seemed junked
I am a proud owner of a 95 Probe and the issue I have is airbag light comes on dash. Went to electrical specialist and they could not figure this out either. One owner told me check the fuse located in the airbag module but that was fine too. So, this is an issue that comes up now. And the other thing is your keyhole on the front doors has a white plastic, which is now brittle and can easily break off. The rear antenna rubber seal is wearing off so it now leaks the water through The driver seat adjustable air pump bolsters are not working....
I had a problem with the airbag several years ago. A specialist checked it out, but it still came on sometimes. Then I realised battery was low. New battery fixed the problem. Strangely despite having replaced the battery many times it only happened the once. I don't have your other problems, maybe as my car has always been garaged. The one problem that seems to be impossible to fix is the rubber seals round the doors. There is a metal core inside and water has got in and rusted it, causing the rubber to expand. Seems no chance unless from a breaker. Rock Auto did have it listed but now say it is no longer available. Lights in the keyholes and footwells still work, but I had to replace the tiny bulbs in the door switches.
Ive got a 94gt and had the airbag code 51 flashing for 10 or 15yrs now..been so long i cant recall! codes for the airbag flash in long and short sequences.. they are easy to read and check which code means what.. I could never find though, the Cause of the code 51...its a short to ground in the system and even replacing the Airbag module controller, it just threw the code again becuz the short was never fixed... The dealers advice about the fuse IN the module is likely the same code as mine.. there is a fuse in there that burns out becuz of a short Elsewhere in the system..fixing the fuse, without finding the cause, its just gonna blow again..code 51
@@skip741x3 The fuse does not necessarily burnout because of a short. It's heat sensitive. I was all set to replace my fuse on my 94's airbag controller. I take out the box and it's not the same controller. It does not have that fuse in there lol. Also code 51. If you do replace it ever, the new one needs to be shielded and have some aluminum hang off the leg being soldered to absorb the heat. Just replacing it can ruin a new fuse. If you've had any rubbing in the front wheel wells, 2 of the airbag sensors wires run over the wheels. One on each side. My 93 ripped them out. 94s sit a little higher.
@@michaelsteane3131 Fix the rubber seal for the antenna but the rest unfortunately still in progress. But I suspect the airbag light could have been because I did not connect the driver seat cables. Testing this theory soon. And saying that I don't get airbag light on at all. So, pulling out the instrument cluster to check that. With OEM part almost not available its hard to fix the test. And now my Tach meter decided to die. But have fixed small things though. and replaced broken relays. Thanks
What does that mean when you turn a unheated engine? You said that in your video doesn't make any sense. Trying to see how that will damage piston rings
distributers fail on the 93-94 models ...more correctly, its the ignitor Inside the disty that gets roasted over time and then no spark..you are stranded.. HEI mod or externally mounting an ignitor takes care of that issue
Mine failed at around 60,000 miles. In Europe Probes were fitted with a Bosch immobiliser which was supposed to have caused the problem. Certainly on mine replacing the distributor apparently fixed it but then I had intermittent cut-outs which were only fixed after a new immobiliser was fitted. At that time cheaper fixes were not available.
You can also do the MAF swap and switch to a 95+ distributor, which helps. Since that uses a 95 style disty Still can fail but it's much cheaper for a coil or the other disty internals.
@@pgtmr2713 How hard is it to do that MAF swap? do you need to convert the OBD1 system to OBD2 or is it just a matter of rewiring the connectors? what did you notice power wise after the swap? that original VAF sensor with the restriction piece that moves was a terrible design, choking airflow
I owned a 1994 Probe GT decades ago that had an intermittent problem of not starting. It would turn over but no start. It took a reputable garage 3 days to finally find the problem. There's a pigtail connector for the fuel pump that had a bad connection.
I’m looking at buying a manual ford probe 1990 GT with 81k miles for 3k should I do it the body is in great shape I own a bmw e46 right now so I’m already used to having to keep up with maintenance is it worth getting this ford probe as a project car ? The car is running and there has only been 1 owner
Interesting. As you say Ford has forgotten it. Mechanical parts are practically all Mazda and despite suggestions they are different usually fit OK. Only rust problems I have had are the edges of the sunroof - the seal retains water, and around the windshield. The latter probably due to paint damage when the screen was replaced. Handbrake sticking on was a serious problem on earlier models, requiring new callipers. The European models had a Bosch immobiliser which caused the distributor to fail and both items had to be replaced at around 60,000 miles. Worst current problem I have is the exhaust heat shields which seem to be mostly held together by rust.
Had the 95 mx6 from 35k to 275k over 10 years with the 2.5 5 speed only major flaw is the expense of the timing belt change water pump change . I also swapped I’ve rot the ZE engine and was a greet handling car and kept me safe . She was t boned and twisted the unibody seemed junked
I am a proud owner of a 95 Probe and the issue I have is airbag light comes on dash. Went to electrical specialist and they could not figure this out either. One owner told me check the fuse located in the airbag module but that was fine too. So, this is an issue that comes up now.
And the other thing is your keyhole on the front doors has a white plastic, which is now brittle and can easily break off.
The rear antenna rubber seal is wearing off so it now leaks the water through
The driver seat adjustable air pump bolsters are not working....
I had a problem with the airbag several years ago. A specialist checked it out, but it still came on sometimes. Then I realised battery was low. New battery fixed the problem. Strangely despite having replaced the battery many times it only happened the once. I don't have your other problems, maybe as my car has always been garaged. The one problem that seems to be impossible to fix is the rubber seals round the doors. There is a metal core inside and water has got in and rusted it, causing the rubber to expand. Seems no chance unless from a breaker. Rock Auto did have it listed but now say it is no longer available.
Lights in the keyholes and footwells still work, but I had to replace the tiny bulbs in the door switches.
Ive got a 94gt and had the airbag code 51 flashing for 10 or 15yrs now..been so long i cant recall! codes for the airbag flash in long and short sequences.. they are easy to read and check which code means what.. I could never find though, the Cause of the code 51...its a short to ground in the system and even replacing the Airbag module controller, it just threw the code again becuz the short was never fixed... The dealers advice about the fuse IN the module is likely the same code as mine.. there is a fuse in there that burns out becuz of a short Elsewhere in the system..fixing the fuse, without finding the cause, its just gonna blow again..code 51
@@skip741x3 The fuse does not necessarily burnout because of a short. It's heat sensitive. I was all set to replace my fuse on my 94's airbag controller. I take out the box and it's not the same controller. It does not have that fuse in there lol. Also code 51. If you do replace it ever, the new one needs to be shielded and have some aluminum hang off the leg being soldered to absorb the heat. Just replacing it can ruin a new fuse. If you've had any rubbing in the front wheel wells, 2 of the airbag sensors wires run over the wheels. One on each side. My 93 ripped them out. 94s sit a little higher.
Did you ever fix this issue?
@@michaelsteane3131 Fix the rubber seal for the antenna but the rest unfortunately still in progress. But I suspect the airbag light could have been because I did not connect the driver seat cables. Testing this theory soon. And saying that I don't get airbag light on at all. So, pulling out the instrument cluster to check that. With OEM part almost not available its hard to fix the test. And now my Tach meter decided to die.
But have fixed small things though. and replaced broken relays.
Thanks
What does that mean when you turn a unheated engine? You said that in your video doesn't make any sense. Trying to see how that will damage piston rings
distributers fail on the 93-94 models ...more correctly, its the ignitor Inside the disty that gets roasted over time and then no spark..you are stranded.. HEI mod or externally mounting an ignitor takes care of that issue
Mine failed at around 60,000 miles. In Europe Probes were fitted with a Bosch immobiliser which was supposed to have caused the problem. Certainly on mine replacing the distributor apparently fixed it but then I had intermittent cut-outs which were only fixed after a new immobiliser was fitted. At that time cheaper fixes were not available.
You can also do the MAF swap and switch to a 95+ distributor, which helps. Since that uses a 95 style disty Still can fail but it's much cheaper for a coil or the other disty internals.
@@pgtmr2713 How hard is it to do that MAF swap? do you need to convert the OBD1 system to OBD2 or is it just a matter of rewiring the connectors? what did you notice power wise after the swap? that original
VAF sensor with the restriction piece that moves was a terrible design, choking airflow
I owned a 1994 Probe GT decades ago that had an intermittent problem of not starting. It would turn over but no start. It took a reputable garage 3 days to finally find the problem. There's a pigtail connector for the fuel pump that had a bad connection.
Vacuum leaks? Great Video!
I used to have a 2.0l model 95ye ….
I own a 1989 Ford Probe with 110,00 miles with nil seat wear. This Probe cant have 50,00 miles with that much seat wear. Yes beautiful a red Probe.
I’m looking at buying a manual ford probe 1990 GT with 81k miles for 3k should I do it the body is in great shape I own a bmw e46 right now so I’m already used to having to keep up with maintenance is it worth getting this ford probe as a project car ? The car is running and there has only been 1 owner
my 89 turbo gt laid to rest many 93+ gt.. the 6 cylinder wasn't faster than the 4 cylinder turbo, at least for acceleration