BARNDOMINIUM Framing Plan - 40x50 Dream Shop
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- How hard could this be?... Framing out my Backyard Dream Shop with ZERO experience. 2x6 Walls, TONS of windows and a fancy ridge cap 🎩
MAHALO! from the LONESTAR HAWAIIAN Garage!
Professional Inquiries: LSHawaiian@Gmail.com
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Want more details on the Shop? The Molokai Dream Shop Build Series:
- The dream that nearly burned to the ground: • $300k+- For A Shop??? ...
- Part 1 The Dream Shop Build Begins! • Building My 40'x50' DR...
- Part 2 Setting the foundation up for Anchor Bolts: • Building CUSTOM DREAM ...
- Part 3 My life savings in CONCRETE: • MY HOA LOVES ME - 4,00...
- Part 4 Massive Red Iron Frame: • Backyard Dream Shop Bu...
- Part 5 Aftermath of the Tornado: • TEXAS TORNADO Just Cos...
- Part 6 $500 DIY Rolling Driveway Gate: • I Built A CUSTOM Drive...
- Part 7 Roof Frame & Sheathing: • I Built A Roof on my 4...
- Part 8 Installing 2500sqft of shingles & facia • How I Saved THOUSANDS ...
Thank you guys so much for the continued support!
Aloha
#Barndominium #DreamShop #Garage - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Good day to you, I have been loving the building series. Just a quick note on the wall build. Even though you are using a pressure treated sill plate, it it highly recommended that you use a barrier between it and concrete. This will alleviate any wicking of water to the board and provide a seal at the bottom to keep out water, bugs, air flow.
Came here to say the same thing.
yeah some cheap rolls of sill plate foam would definitely help
Thanks!
I think I’ve seen that before. It’s that black roll of spongy stuff, right?
@@LonestarHawaiianyes it is. Love that you’re on here. You’re wrong about your build quality ….it’s much better than those $800,000 homes.😂
yes sir@@LonestarHawaiian
ForceField is 2-3 times more permeable than Zip. Zip was originally designed for roofs where one wants zero air movement and then just sold as a wall sheathing. FF will allow more vapor movement, which would be a good thing in your humid climate especially considering this is not a living space. There are some good videos from the creator of both explaining the differences.
I would take the time to pull those sill plates and add the sill sealer foam strips though. Use the Zip liquid flash, no matter which sheathing you use, to seal the wall to the slab. This will help not only with air penetration, but bugs (thinking ants in Texas) as well.
As a tradesman I really enjoy watching these videos seeing you learn along the way, this series is badass brother, keep up the good work its coming out sick
As a Commercial General Contractor who does Multifamily Apartment Complexes, you're right. We use 7/16 or 15/32 OSB Sheathing on the exterior of our buildings, and use barricade house wrap, an alternative to Tyvek. Barricade is great though, we also use their flashing for the rough openings of doors and windows. I would highly, highly recommend finn windows and not recessed. We tried recessed on our last project because the Architect and the owner wanted to make it a feature but to install it is another story. We have a consultant hired by the owner on all of our projects that inspects the waterproofing and we went back and forth for months, figuring out how to flash the RO's for recessed windows. Save yourself the hastle, do finn windows with a trim.
The term is plumb, not plum like the fruit :). Plumbum is latin for lead. Back in the day, builders used a lead weight suspended on a string to measure 90 degrees off from level. To this day the device of a metal weight on a string is known as a plumb bobbber or plumb bob. So when something is level its in reference to the earth (horizontal), 90 degrees out from that or vertical is known as being plumb.
👆🏽Thank you! The more you know!
Sill seal foam for sure under your treated board.
When it comes time for electrical. Figure up how many outlets you think you’ll need and double it. Outlets are cheap and invaluable when you don’t have enough or access in a convenient location you didn’t plan for.
👆🏽love this 💯
1 can never have enough outlets or money.
💯
I would add that it's not just outlets, you need extra breakers. Shop equipment pulls quite a bit of amperage. On my last garage I had four double gang outlets on one wall, but it was 2 20 amp circuits so I could run multiple tools simultaneously.
@@gahansel how many hands do you have? multiple tools, LOL
I work in sales for a lumber company and framed houses before that for 20 years. Zip System all day long. There is a proven reason everyone uses it in the building industry. The cost is pretty dang close to a northern OSB and Tyvek. I wouldn’t. use anything else for what you’re doing. Cheaper isn’t always better. Your homebuilder showed you that. Looks great keep it up! Enjoy watching the process man!
Any time man. You’re taking on a huge project. Pretty respectable
Yes seal foam for sure and yes 4 windows, and yes at least 14ft door! Also I would do the main man door on side of building then you could get away with 3 windows on that side. It looked kinda strange with it on the front to me. And yes for sure a second man door toward back on other side. Just my thoughts but you are doing a great job love the videos and thanks for letting us have input in your shop!😊
Thanks!
Nice work. Couple things I would do. Build the end walls the same height as the side walls and them add the triangular fill ins. By the way the change in height per stud should be the same for each. As for windows, I'm a proponent for lots for windows hence natural light. I also agree about the main door, think long term, and someday when you move the next person may have an RV, to tall ideally 14+foot door.
I was thinking he should have another overhead door on the back side. Maybe keep the lower one on the front to "match the look of the house" but put the taller door on the backside for drive through as well as ability to get larger/taller vehicles in.
I've always been liked the looks of 2x4 windows across the top of the walls. But if you want more natural light, go with 4 windows, you'll have plenty of room for shelving in the corner like you have in the house garage! Keep on crushing it man! You're currently living my dreams of building a dream shop!
I like this project. A complex DIY, but through research and patience and hard work a person who isn't an expert with any one of these trades is able to get a better than average result.
from someone wanting to do the exact same thing as you with the nice house and big backyard to build whatever you want whenever you want I really love your videos & with you being in Texas I feel like your down the street from where I live its really inspiring to watch and continue seeing this build come together!! You make me wanna get up and get to working harder to have something like this!! I love the trucks and cars as well I'm trying to build my collection up as well!!
e hooikaika e ka hoahanau! (Keep striving brother)
I like the pride and thought process you put into all the work you do. Takes time to do things right and feel good about it.
Nice work so far, but you may want to put foam seam seal under the pressure treated 2×6. Then add blocking between your 2×6 stud on your ballon wall to help keep your space when you get ready to put sheathing on.
12ft high garage doors you will regret. Most rv's need more than 12ft. Do at least a 13ft. I did 15ft on my 4600 sq ft garage.
14’ roll up doors are more common. Anything that can legally fit on the road will fit. 13’6” is the limit without a permit
Agreed, nobody in history of mechanics and car enthusiast ever said "man I wish I had a smaller door". Always go as big as you can.
Sashco Lexel sealant on the slab to the pressure treated!!!! More windows now, you can always ceramic UV film them later if its too hot and still get free natural light.
Don't worry about using zip sheeting it's not as good as you think. It leaks and it is not as weather tight as they say. I've used that and tyvek and use tyvek all the time now.
Just been enjoying the ride of the process of watching this building being built..keep it up
Love your work & you are doing an amazing job. Just keep doing what you're doing. Great build video's. Billy J.... Queensland, Australia.
Thanks for watching!
Mahalo for working through the cold.
This is gonna be so sic when you're done
Like 2 months of waiting!!! Yes! Appreciate you brother! 🤙🏾
Congrats Brother ...... it looks AWESOME
Been following this project and has been very informative and attention to detail! With that said, I would return those GP sheaths asap. You'll obviously have brick siding but the vapor barrier on those sheaths peels right off. Go with ZIP or LP Weatherlogic. It'll be worth the extra expense in the long run.
Looking good! Would do this if I were 20… okay 30 years younger! I do almost all my own work/repairs around the house. One thing I learned was to spend on “quality” materials. Recently replaced all that cardboard on my 28 year old mobile home with 1/2” sheathing and fiber cement siding. Also replaced the fiberglass with rock wool insulation. Once you close in you will definitely want to insulate to protect not only from radiant heat but also noise. The last thing you want is complaints about any noise from the shop after it’s done and you want to suppress the interior noise or echo from any work you may do. Enjoying watching this getting built and evolve as it goes.
You should get with CZcamsr Matt Risinger (out of Austin, TX) to get build advice. It Might be a good collaboration video.
Then he would have to triple the budget. Lol
I've watched his videos. #Goals for sure...
Just ran across your video here. Congrats to you and your efforts. Looking good!
I’m really enjoying the build! One thing I would look into is sheer wall calculations since the height of your walls are pretty tall. It became an issue up north here with our inspector when building our home. Basically, it’s there to reduce wall flex caused by strong winds. I believe a comment may have mentioned it in an earlier post. Build a standard wall then frame in the upper triangles. You’ll have a much stronger wall. Proud of you taking on this build!
Super excited to see the process. You’re doing an amazing job. The kids are going to love playing in there.
Kids have already claimed it 😂
Are you planning to put a barrier between your bottom plate and the concrete? I realize it's pressure treated lumber, but any extra protection is better. This Old House has a ton of great ideas for sheathing and insulation ideas. The more insulation and sealing you do now will improve your ability to keep the garage cool in our Texas summers.
It's looking great!
Zip is fine if you nail it off correctly and don’t countersink any nail heads. Then you have to tape all the seams. That’s where the water will get in and rot the OBS board the green layer is protecting. We always use 1/2 pine or fir plywood and wrap it in house wrap. Then tape all your vertical seams. I have never used the force field so I can’t speak on that. But as far as cost goes and time the house wrap comes in 9’ rolls and if you have someone else to help you hold it and staple it off it goes quick.
A side roll up door near where your welding table is going to be would be a huge plus. It Help with air ventilation
I have no idea how you find the time and energy to do all this, but kudos to you! I found your channel based on the mods you were doing to your new Chevy Silverado (I have a 2021 GMC Sierra AT4 6.2L). however I have to say enjoy watching all the stuff you do including this new shop, which I'm completely envious of by the way, and have shared your channel with several friends. I love that you figure all this out as you go and that is inspiring and helpful. You hit the nail on the head when you said there is a certain level of pride when doing something yourself. Keep it up and look forward to seeing new mods to the Chevy this year!
You can use a mix of systems for outside, ZIP for the bottom and top where it counts and another system in the middle, just make sure the same thickness and you seal the seams really well
Bro you are an inspiration! This build has been so much fun to watch and experience with you. Thank you for allowing us to ride along with you on this journey!
Mahalo!
Thanks for watching! Aloha.
With the brick facade, I think whatever you go with will work. I recommend going with that last option you showed.
What is recommended for a surface to put brick over is the biggest factor I would think when you choose your sheething system. If your final layer on your structure is low quality vinyl siding then fiberglass coated plywood would be a good choice. A layer of brick may provide significant protection therefore osb or plywood with tyvek may be fine. I am in Massachusetts and did plywood with tyvek and composite siding, it works well
Things i would add. 1.) Vent fan that way you can pull out welding smoke or at least cause a through draft during the times you dont need a/c heat. 2. While your is in this stage some type of I beam structure that has you can have a hoist on rails. Never know when you will have to unload something super heavy. 3.) find you a section of it to turn into a mancave with a bar and couch. Finish it out with your brand logo so you have it during filming in the shop.
Shop looks great so far. I agree with moister barrier between wood and floor. I would put an additional roll up door in the back so you can pull through if needed, or pull something in from your back yard. A walk thru door as well. I would hire you to build mine!!
I would add at least 2 exhaust pipes up thru ceiling so if doors are closed you just hook pipe to exhaust on vehicle. Really like that you're putting in second door if for no other reason than you will have gas, oil, and grease which all burns. Believe me you don't want to be trapped in the back and the door is in the front!
You’re doing a great job man.
I would look into adding a 4' wide man door, they're quite handy for moving stuff in and out.
Glad I heard you say about adding a second door. Depending on your building codes, most require two means of egress on buildings, this also depends on the path. They wont allow you to use a garage door either as a means of egress.
Remember add what you want now, to add this later after your building is done will cost you more in materials and labor.
I would definitely put the sill plate foam between the concrete and the bottom of the wood. Concrete and wood touching causes the wood to rot.
Lookn good! It’s coming along. I don’t have any insight as I am also a DIYer. And also reasearch and then apply what I have learned. But hey , proud of what you have done. It’s a lot . Keep going!
Amazing
Sill seal under bottom treated plate. Talk with your brick installers to see what they need for a backing barrier. OSB and tar paper sometimes works best. They need something solid for their brick ties to nail into.
Think about a door on opposite end of the garage door. Allow for ventilation on those hot Texas evenings. Airflow
Not to put the cart before the horse, but now that you have a full roof and are starting the walls, now is a good time to just eyeball or spray paint mark plans for electrical and pneumatic line runs so you can get those put in and have the insulation sprayed over it. Unless you want the lines to be visible.
just a thought, there are these garage door with a man door built in, which would give you more interior wall to use. if not using one of those, i would have the door closer to the garage door. gives more space in the corner and imo just more asthetical 😊. looking good so far dude! diy 💪
Regular OSB with Prosoco Spray Wrap MVP for the water/air barrier.
Great project love your enthusiasum for the build - I would go for lots of Natural Light in a build that size - Keep smiling and building - from UK
A horizontal window up high on the wall may work for you to provide light, but not block the wall for use with shelves
Love the build series.
Thank you for watching!!
Ridge Cap tip: You do not apply a ridge cap just for looks & start in the middle, especially in Texas. All roof installers no matter where take in the prevailing wind direction in deciding the installation of a ridge cap. If your winds come primarily say from the south you start on the north end, NOT the middle. This is how you keep debris & high winds from getting under the ridge cap. Trust me it will eventually get under them the way you did it. Sorry, that's just the way it's done.
I just did a room addition on my home and if you buy from Home Depot yes! But if you buy from smaller shops I got the plywood 7/16 sheeting for $9. So basically steer clear from Home Depot and buy elsewhere
4:50 *sprinklers granule on caulked nail* = mint 👌🏾
I was watching this and was going to comment and suggest the GP stuff. I too used the GP Forcefield on my shop build in 2023. I am in the same area you are in (DFW area) and I just checked, I ended up paying about $11-12 a sheet just about exactly a year ago, so it has gone up, but still much cheaper than the Zip. Orange store had the best price and next day delivery for me at the time.
The GP tape (at least the basic stuff) is trash, so spend the extra on the GP Premium tape, or just go with Zip tape. I could not get enough of the GP premium tape (stock issues at the time), so I decided it was worth the "risk" to the warranty of not having an approved tape, and the zip tape stuck great. I figured that with any of the tapes this would be a better solution than just straight OSB and house wrap.
I will caution that nails seem to go through this pretty easy, so I turned my nail gun down further than I thought I would for the drive depth, but if I were super concerned, then doing a liquid flashing over nail holes (Matt Risinger has some videos on this) might be a good "extra" step, but I decided at some point I had to just trust the building.
I am not a professional, and did a lot of DIY on my shop build as well (54x40x12h), I do not have any long term experience with this product, but I definitely am glad I saved the step of an independant house wrap.
Thanks for the info! Super helpful. Do you by chance have a link to the Orange store website? having trouble getting Home Depot to deliver...
@@LonestarHawaiian for some reason my replies here on YT keep getting auto-deleted. I shot you the link and screen shot over on IG
We used force field for ours. Taped all seams and penetrations and was weather tight for a year. Including Indiana winter. You’re doing a great job!
Thanks for sharing!
Hello from New Brunswick Canada, I love the content. I dream to have a shop that big some day as well, and I love the inspiration I am getting. Keep grinding, its definitely motivational to see someone who has kids and a day job progress their dreams.
Building a shop in Canada = 2x the price
Get it dude! Good on you for tackling it yourself! I'm sick of looking at property to build my dream shop but I don't know if I have the guts to tackle any of the building myself
definitely go with another man door or some form of fire escape at the rear of the building, and hopefully never need it!
As a guy that just finished his shop, and a N TX native I wish I woulda done a drive through bay. Trailers, cars, mowers, tractors whatever.. now I have to drive through our lawn to get behind the shop. It’ll also help with ventilation (unless you’re planning on HVAC. Just a thought!
Thanks!!
Something you may whant to use is seal sealer under the bottom plates.. as well think ahead as how to attach a brick ledge of what all your brick will need to set on as well. Zip is def higher if you plain to heat and cool the building the George sheeting would work fine as well.
Thank you!
These guy keeps amazing me lol, doing all these him self you the men. Much love to you and fam. God bless you
🤙🏽
Add some sill plate gasket to that bottom plate.
Will do!
Been watching you since you started this shop build! I'm out of mount pleasant tx (2-3hrs from you). Good luck with the continuation of the build 👍 doing great man!
Hello from Illinois awesome job keep it up and if i was up there i would i would gladly give you hand. 👍👍👍
Looks awesome do 3 full windows each side for even light
for insulation best bang for your buck and best option would be 2 in ch closed cell spray foam with 4 inch rockwool for efficiency and sound proofing. and I agree with @sentienthamster go with zip and pick the zip system with 2 inch external barrier. in north texas it is not homud enough to need to moisure penetration and movement. maybe in Lousiana, but not here.
Yes GO WITH THE Georgia-Pacific that's a good option affordable route to the job just as good as the OSB and it's already wrapped it's a no-brainer.
You are doing it yourself; go with the Zip System, you will not regret it. What you did not account for in the cost though was the seam tape you’ll need to use on all seams. This is a proven system that is a one man job - you are saving huge amounts on doing the labor yourself. Invest in quality materials that will make your installation a lot easier.
Another thought, call your local lumber yard. Builders FirstSource or a regional yard will typically be more affordable and often times will deliver for a nominal fee. Avoid the big box stores if possible.
If you can brace all walls 4 ft on center between studs.Since you are building for yourself its always better to do over kill.Also try to strap the top sills to the Gable beams.👍
Strapping is something he should do for sure, living in texas.
Would be awesome to have a big bay window on that back center wall that followed the shape of the building and just cuts to half way to let in as much natural light as possible.
From what I’ve heard .. that zip boards don’t allow the home to breathe.. it’s too air tight.. so people have to keep fans moving air around in the home permanently. Tyvek allows the the wood to breathe. Spray foam hides water seeping. You chase a leak for a long time. When taping the seams keep in mind water flow, behind the siding. “ in case of a leak on your brick siding”
Tyvex is a great product it provides great benefits in weather conditions n it works just gatta make sure to staple it good n you’ll have no issues with it
You can save a lot of money by just buying 10’ or 12’ lumber. And capping it and then continuing up. I usually buy the studs the hight of the top of the windows since you have to frame a header accross the top anyway. Then continue up to the top. 16’,18’, and 20’ lumber is a premium cost. And should only really be used where it’s absolutely needed. For example load bearing walls.
Looks sweet! Smart plan for framing the walls. I’ve done some sheathing work. Using OSB and house wrap isn’t too difficult. But that product you showed looks like a great option… then you just tape the seams? If it’s the same thickness of OSB I’d say go for it.
you wont regret the extra windows
Looks awesome! Love your videos! I am about to start fixing up my house on my own (no experience, lol) with my Son. Should be fun..funny...maybe I should make a "How not to DIY" lol, idk.... Keep up the great work. :)
I know it's a little late since the roof is done but Skylights in Texas would provide a ton of free interior light.
Thats why i went with zip. Doing the work myself i knew putting the tyvek on would suck with the wind.
I'd definitely add some windows or even a smaller roll up door on the opposite side of the main door. With both open you get great cross flow, especially if you're not putting havac right away.
Aloha, brother. Loving the build. I have Ohana in Hilo. Keep up the great work!
I’m the north if it gets too cold we switch to corded tools, cuz air won’t work either but usually-2 my batteries still work
We use dewalt they work no matter what 😂. Also we had to redo our house after derecho and found previous owner took off old fiber board siding and put up vinyl, but the whole house was fiberboard sheeting 😢. So had to rip it all down cause they didn’t tyvek before doing vinyl so all water was just soaking into sheeting if it made it behind the siding. So we ripped it all off and put up force field sheeting and tape all seams. Works great!
Thanks!
my barn was a hybrid worldwide steel building, makes putting sheet siding much easier
I suggest considering a 14’ door . Should you ever decide to move. A new buyer may want to utilize the shop for rv storage.
Texas winters seem like they’re getting worse and worse every year. Doing great job. Keep it up. We’ll keep watching. 👍🏽
Climate change gas lighting
I know nothing about building, but I will throw my 2 cents in. Maybe throw a service door or windows that open on all sides to get better airflow. Might help keep your shop cooler in those Texas summers
The word plum the reason why you use the word plum is because normally you would use what they call a plumb bob which would be hanging from a string
You, good sir, are keen on detail so I truly believe you will be able to figure out what needs to be done to get this project done. Keep going. I like your content and enjoy your videos. Believe it or not, your videos are very informative. I love your trucks btw. I have an 08 and am planning on getting a 2024.
I am not by any means a professional and don’t do build houses daily. As a matter of fact, I am self proclaimed DIY’er with dreams, tools and a hunger for building things with my hands very much like yourself. I can tell you in the research I have made that you should really use Polyethelene sill seal gasket of some sort. You want to avoid contact between wood (even if it’s pressure treated) with the concrete. Concrete is porous and will attract moisture. You need a barrier to avoid the rotting of your sill plate. Just my two cents. And as as far as why the word plum is used in construction and some carpentry, I learned that this word “Plum” is derived from the Latin word “Plumbum” which means “lead” and lead replaced stone used in a “Plummet” or more commonly known as “Plum Bob” which are designed to indicate a “true vertical line” when placed next to a work piece. The things I learned from the internet.
Loving the progress. I'm taking notes for when I build my own shop "one day". From my own experience, I think you may regret (or at least be annoyed by) having only 1 roll up door. I currently have a large garage in my basement with only one door in and out. I've got plenty of space inside for multiple cars, but its annoying to have to shuffle things in and out every time I want to get something out from the back I have to pull everything in front of it out and then put it all back again when finished. You may be able to slide vehicles by each other with a 14 ft wide door but I still suspect its going to be annoying having to do a 12 point turn to maneuver one by the other on the approach. If you can afford it. I'd eliminate the window to the left (looking at the shop from the front) and add another roll up in that location. This would allow you an additional door that you can permanently park a car or other equipment in front of, or just another route out when the other door is blocked. It seems silly but this will make a huge difference in how much hassle you put yourself through on a daily basis.
I'll have to look into it. Would love to drop another door on the west side of the building but need to check my HOA regs on that one...
💯💯💯
"plomb" is french for lead, from when they used a lead weight on a string to check if it was standing straight up.
Here is PA we say roof like a dog barks -roof,roof(can't spell it like we say it lol.) Plumb is horizontally straight and you eat a plum.Looking great there.
On that bottom plate, should have put a black tar sealer between the concrete and wood.
If you have any security concerns, have the man door swing out, nearly impossible to kick in.
Really good thought actually