Do you know why some dampproofing holes in the brick and some in the masonry joints?
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2017
- Damp Sam looks tell why the old method of damp proofing drilled and injected into the brick and the new method goes into the joints of the mortar. The damp proof cream lines the pore of the masonry stopping moisture tracking by changing the shape of the meniscus of the water. Some laborers in the 80s & 90s were told to use the high-pressure systems incorrectly leading to a break down of the damp proof course.
That looks like fairly modern brickwork. I would bet my pension that this house has never needed a damp proof course injecting. More likely to be a bridging problem or such like.
This industry has survived on the myth of "rising damp" and the ignorance of the general public, and even so called surveyors who think a moisture meter is a magic tool that finds damp, when it will find "damp" even in bone dry places.
IPfrequently thankyou for your comments, if you watch the videos I explain that the physical dpc is bridge due to raised ground levels inside and out, a new dpc is cheaper than digging down below the bridge dpc. Please feel free to contact me via our website to discuss the existence of rising damp and our so called magic meters that find damp. Have a great day
I am an experienced builder with over 30 years and I have never ever used any chemical injections in the wall for damp proof course it is all ways bridging problem in side or out side ground level it's always somebody that doesn't know what they are doing trying to make a quick buck they cause more problems than anything and specially the mortar mix they use they haven't got a clue and if you know what types A and B grade bricks are and used for when I get a call out about a job like this I have to fix 3 Jobs before I can actually fix the one that I've been call out to do all my damp proof course work i do i give I a lifetime guarantee as I know it has been done right all this chemical injection shit chuck it in the bin and it only lasts for 10 to 20 years what a pile of rubbish so after that time you'll be back to square one again keep paying and paying again why don't other just do it right the first time and never have to go back ever again give a lifetime guarantee like I do
voodoo audio what about houses built in 1880s with no brick, how do you sort the damp issue then?
Iam a sparky and served my time in the 80"s and these dampys use to travel from Bradford to Liverpool and they use to cut straight through the house with a massive saw and cut through the house like lumberjacks and put a traditional damp proofing in it was good to watch
One of the tutors who was on a course at the PCA called Peter McDonald had a damp company around london in the late 70s and 80s and he made a chainsaw that could do this. they adapted ones they bought from the merchant so they could cut masonry. very very dangerous. but that was the 70s
Sam , old bloke here, you are right about the fig 8 we were shown that way back when early 80s don't think the boss even knew how to do a DPC even though he used to write 30 year guarantees, was about 17 back then, time tells as they say
Kev B I know they made a lot of money and gave us genuine company's a bad press, I'm trying to give people some knowledge . There are a lot of good company's out their you just have to do a bit of research. I try to keep on top of new methods but still remember the old. Have a great day.
Hi, liking all of your videos lots of info and tips. Tackling a dpc myself after watching your videos. We have holes in the brick like the ones in this video. Do you always go to the course above where the holes are drilled for the insertion of dryzone dry rods?
Thanks for the videos and keep up the awesome work.
It’s about that but must be a min of 150mm from the ground
Thanks for the reply. Can crack on now and diy it (destroy it yourself)
Hi mate found your video very interesting I’ve currently got wet patch’s on my internal walls and a few wet patches in the external walls in my from room. I’m thinking of doing this just wondering what I need cheers
Get a competent qualified specialist surveyor to diagnose what it is first, it could be condensation and ventilation issues
Many thanks for the video.
I have one on my exterior wall and it looked like multiple holes on the building. The wall isn't made of bricks , it doesn't look too good from the outside.
I intend to paint outside. Can I close it with a wall filler and paint across?
Would this prevent it from working ?
No it wouldn’t prevent the system from working unless there is bridging, once the solution is in the wall it wall work if it’s installed correctly
@@dampsam thanks for the prompt response
How do I find out how thick wall is? And can I do it all on the exterior walls of kitchen, or do I have to do it from internal walls of kitchen? Which means taking all cupboards out.
Measure across the reveal on the door opening and take off the thickness of the plaster around 20mm
Hi mate, I've just got the dry zone to do my internal walls, how far do I drill into the mortar.
jordancorey it needs to be 2/3rds of the brick/wall in or 25mm from far side of the brick/wall
When you explain it, it sounds a no brainer
Thankyou
Hi pal. My house was built in 1906. It has the holes in brick like that which is damp proofing. We get rising damp in winter. Also not sure if it has cavity walls.... cant do being built that far back. Double brick maybe? What would work on our house. We lifted floor board up to sort radiator pipes out and there's a big pit under house.
Are you sure you have rising damp? I would have an expert competent surveyor look at it. Rising damp doesn’t come and go it just gets worse and worse., also make sure your subfloor is vented correctly.
What if you have solid brick walls and no cavity? Do you need to do inside and out?
You don’t need to, you can drill and inject from one side if you want but we do both sides I find it easier
Can I use the drysticks in holes if I don't have bricks from inside? it's just some type of panels.
I’m not sure what that is, I would need to see the wall to comment really.
DONE IT PROPERS AND SEEN IT DONE COWBOY STYLE ,WHAT U SAID👍🎯
You have an internal and external wall with a cavity, assuming the cavity is clear of obstructions the internal wall is the only wall were damp treatment/dpc needs fitting. External walls are only a cladding, you have to question if any type of damp course is even needed on the external skin when the best dpc is the cavity between both walls.
Both walls go down under the ground to the footing so a dpc is needed 150mm above ground level according to building regs
@@dampsam
Hi Simon
DPC to both walls 6 inch above ground, written into stone by building reg's
External walls of any standard house will be at least 5 meters in height and this is a large area exposed to the elements, below the DPC 150mm in height. When taking account of standard rainfall within the UK most external walls spend a lot of time getting wet and gravity is stronger than capillary action so gallons of rainwater will run down the surface of any external wall to the DPC level yet everybody is focused on what may be a few pints of water rising up from the ground.
@@leethornton6395 your missing the point, the dpc is to stop ground water from rising up the wall via capillaries the evaporating out leaving salts on the wall, the position set by building regs is 150mm from the ground externally to avoid rain water splash back.
If you need to argue the point contact the BRE.
@@dampsam
Sure natural water has some level of salt, but most salts that evaporate on the surface of buildings tends to be contained within in the bricks due to the manufacture process and can appear on wall surfaces when any evaporation of water occurs, unsightly yes and not in my opinion the result solely of rising damp. I'm happy for DPC 150mm from the ground to be installed this protects the bricks and building structure above this level from the foreseen threat of rising damp. The only point I have been trying to make is if you have a cavity that is clean with no bridging there is no way water can transfer to the internal wall. Regardless of any rising damp from the ground water. I've yet to see the evidence water can cross a void of 50mm - 100mm even if the DPC is bridged externally by somebody laying a path above the external DPC the internal wall will still be free from damp. In my experience bridging of the two walls resulting in penetrating damp has always been the problem and not anything to do with rising damp. This is why I personally believe that nearly all say 95% of any type of chemical injection of walls doesn't solve the underlying problem.
@@leethornton6395 I hear what your saying but I’m not sure weather it’s a general statement or to do with the video?
Yes in theory a perfect cavity will work but when you get wall ties fitted incorrectly and also retro fit cavity wall insulation also fitted incorrect when it’s over subfloor vents and sags along with raised internal solid floors you get bridging issues which is what was happening on this job. A number of different systems were put in place and no issues have been reported since
Jasus who foamed in the vent
I can't see the mortar brick lines at the bottom of my solid brick wall, as it is all rendered over with cement about 8 inches from the ground. Can I just estimate where to drill into the mortar, if I drill into the bricks will the rods still work? Cheers!
No, it will still bridge, it may need cutting off above the dpc level and a drip bead installing
Hello, we have a damp issue in parts of the house. We have wet circular patches, some bigger than others. We have about 5 that we can see and an expert came and said they would have to inject the bricks. However, their quote seems to be so much higher than expected. I was wondering whether you could recommend any experts in London. Thank you
South East Timber & Damp
Would be good to see the problem in the first instance...i.e. what did the client see that resulted in them getting in touch with you and you then recommending a damp proof course of this kind being installed? A before and after kinda thing
Hello George,
thanks for the comment, I will bear that in mind, if you have a look at the dry rot videos at firth park we have tried to do this as it is in 3 parts. Thank you for the feedback.
Do dryrods work or is it better to go with cream?
Dry rods are the best on the market installed correctly, you get the exact amount in each hole. They are just more expensive than the creams
Hi Sam,
I have plenty holes in brick like you with plastic plugs. When I removed plugs that hole is empty. Can I fill those holes with rods or cream?
I personally wouldn’t if they are in the brick, the holes need to be in the mortar
Those bricks look decent quality and may not soak up too much damp anyway . If you can clean the cavity out inside and go right along then that's the best way but a pain in the b*m to do . Make sure paths are falling away and downsputs are clearing away from house
Aye l bet your right, looking at the type and quality of facing brick used on the outer leaf, l bet you couldn’t inject those with a chemical dpc at 200 psi let alone they will absorbe any capillary moisture. You may get capillary moisture through the mortar line, however as this is on an outside leaf of a cavity wall evaporation will deal with it. I suspect the homeowner has been conned at least twice into paying for unnecessary work to the outside wall of this property. Not to mention the damage /defacing caused by drilling the brickwork.
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I have maybe a stupid question… my house has damp because the chemical is in the bricks and not the mortar. Can it be injected on top of what’s already there, or does it have to be somehow removed from the brick first?
You can drill the mortar but make sure you use the damp rods, do the course above the drill holes. The old silicone high pressure damp systems can breakdown over time and quicker if it’s not been installed perfectly. The rods will work up to when the house falls down,
You can drill the mortar but make sure you use the damp rods, do the course above the drill holes. The old silicone high pressure damp systems can breakdown over time and quicker if it’s not been installed perfectly. The rods will work up to when the house falls down,
The ground level looks raised, this looks more of bridging issue. The ground level needs to be lowered, chemical DPC'S are a waste of time.
Paul Mooney good morning, yes I did a previous video where I mention the ground level being raised and lowering it was an option that was put to the customer, but it is raised inside too and the cost and time it would take to do this does not compare with drilling and injecting a new DPC it’s weighing up the best option, that is why we carry out a survey.
Thanks for being a fan, get in touch if you would like to speak more via our website. Have a great day.
Who would you recommend in London to inject a basement property?
South East Timber and damp
Please watch Peter Ward before believing this rubbish
Ben Scott yes I would urge everyone to see what peter says and make there mind up, I show methods that are tried and tested and BBA approved where as Peter tends to look at Mis diagnosis and poor workmanship which our industry like others suffer from. I’m easily contactable if you want to talk about it, I’ll listen to your thoughts.
Thank bud, could I drill the holes from the inside and add cream? Cheers.
Yes the holes can be drilled from the inside just measure the thickness where the door is and drill to within 25mm of the far skin. Apply StormDry outside to avoid rainwater splash back issues if the DPC is lower than 150mm from external ground level.
Hi,
Is there anybody know exactly what you plug into a bricks hole?
I’m not sure I understand what your saying but if your referring to what is injected into the drill holes for the dpc it’s DryZone Cream we used
my property has just an internal damp course. when I looked into the holes in can see straight through to the room next door. should I expect that hole to be full of what's been injected or does it dissolve?
mark kight it would need pointing up with something, you shouldn’t be able to see through to next door it’s a fire risk.
20/30 years on with holes drilled directly into the bricks of a terraced house i can show clear damage to the shared ally access wall bricks which on one side are beginning to disintegrate and on the neighbours identical terraced house side which has never had it done the bricks look as good as new. All those who had bricks drilled into beware of future impending problems!
Yes water can get in the holes and freeze and create spalling over time
I think there might be more to it, the ground floor gully is sheltered above by the first floor of both houses joined and has doors both ends, in another area of the house the disintegrated bricks are worse on the internal leaf of the solid brick wall to a heated room, it were found at least several bricks were upto 20/40% damaged, these bricks were also covered with sand and cement render, unlike the gully bricks which are beginning to break.
I want to damp proof a terrace house with cream in the mortar joints. Can I just do it from the outside because it doesn’t have a cavity ?
Yes if you have a long enough drill bit
@@dampsam cheers so go 8 inches into the brick from the outside ?
Also how long does it take for the walls to dry out and return to dry levels ? These manufacturers do not tell you which I think is a bit dodgy ?
Its how long is a piece of string. Walls are different thicknesses and capillarys different sizes so all different drying times, if the plaster is contaminated it needs replacing and the damp you have has to be diagnosed correctly. Not all damp is rising
@@dampsam cheers thank you for your help much appreciated. I’m going to have to measure the thickness near a door or window.
why do you install that far up the wall and not at the first coarse?
The floor inside is solid and that is above the floor level, building regs state 150mm to avoid rainwater splash back.
cool thanks Simon...
Expanding foam pouring out 🤣🤣 why didn't you or they use teracota air bricks and point them
erics vids thanks for taking time out of you busy time to watch, there is a difference between the terracotta clay ones and plastic, the plastic has a greater air flow. It’s instastik not expanding foam I mention it in all the vids. It’s more of a building glue. I thought everyone knew that, looks like you may have learned something to use in future. 🤣🤣 have a great night
Hi Sam, I've watched many of your videos and as an ex plasterer myself would love an opportunity to discuss the use of modern materials in historic buildings with you? Proffesionaly, i believe we couod both learn from eachother. I'm opening my own channel and perhaps it's something we could discuss online?
Regards
dave lawton
I’m more than happy to collab Dave contact me on dampsam@thedampshow.co.uk 👍
Hi mate where are you based?
Tom Adams Barnsley South Yorkshire
sorry sam never heard of the figure of eight when pumping damp proof in eightys
John Brooks prob sounds like you were doing it right 👍
Doesnt work you need a physical damp proof course
philiskirk57 there is one in and its bridged at the far end and inside by a concrete floor and raised ground level, this is a quicker and cleaner method than installing another physical dpc
So basically the brick damp proofing is a total waste of time
No it works great used correctly
Hi, nice videos! I´ve seen that you don´t actually "clean" the holes you drilled before filling whith th DPC, so I guess that´s not completely nessesary as stated in some tutorials?
Hi thanks for watching, I would say belt & braces and strictly according to the manual you should use the corer to remove any debris, the modern drill bits will bring most debris out and if your back filling with dryzone this goes above and beyond what is required, if you are using the damp check rods you do have to use the corer or the rod won’t fit. So play it by ear and do what you think is acceptable when you have drilled the hole. Hope this helps.
Who the hell puts sub floor vents/Cav vents in with a foam gun?
Hi rick thanks for your input and being a fan, it’s instastik that’s been used which is a building glue, Joiner’s also use it for sticking various things on site, it’s just one modern time efficient way of doing things, the foam is cut off and pointed up after.
Which method do you use?
@@dampsam Thought it was done previous to you're install of DPC. I do cavity wall insulation removal, we just resent them with sand and cement. I enjoy watching you're video's btw.
We do quite alot of insulation removal jobs in blackpool and the cavities are full of sand which bridge's the original dpc...
Rick West yes there is a market for going around clearing them out,
Iv never been a fan of cavity wall insulation,
@@dampsam Im a joiner and have been for 24 yrs ive never used this expanding foam or seen any of my fellow joiners on site use this stuff ….its a bodge
John Ferrier thanks for watching, 24 years ey you must be getting the hang of it now,
If you have ever used new products like caber deck chipboard treated floor either with the protective film or not you will have glued it with a polyurethane expanding glue. Instastik is the same stuff but ion a foam gun.
I see you have jumped in and made yourself look silly but I understand if you don’t keep up to date with new products and stay rooted in the past,
Thanks for taking the time out and watching and commenting if you need further advice on products just email me.
Lower pathways ventilation drainage where possible
Janet Picot lower pathways at great expense, which ventilation and what drainage? Could you expand on this please in interested
Are you saying rising damp does not exist? I assume dpc is for rising damp
No, rising damp is one type of dampness that affects walls of buildings
Everyone in entitled to there own opinion no matter ho slanderous. What evidence do you have of this so called fraud ?
Snake oil!
elbuggo selling or buying ?
How come water can travel through cement mortar but when you plaster you plaster in cement to stop water penetrating into the room. I've never understood cement slurry tanking stopping damp but cement mortar can't? The whole thing is mind boggling to me
Good Morning Strikemehandsome, the course we do at the PCA to become a CSRT & CSSW surveyor takes a few years to complete and we cover this in detail when learning about the transfer of moisture. There are pores and capillaries in the makeup of the render and the mortar. When you use a polymer modified slurry this blocks the pores to stop moisture transfer. when you use an additive in the render this lines the pores to stop moisture travelling through the capillaries by altering the shape of the meniscus from convex to concurred. but it will allow water vapour through when it has been lined.
that is the short version that you may or may not grasp. there are others who could explain it better and that is why I'm not a lecturer. hope this helps.
Have a great day.
Cement is one of the worst materials you can use especially on older properties. Cement render/pointing prevents the breatherability of the building, a lot of properties I survey with damp issues is mostly due to the wrong materials being used by so called damp experts. If no bridging, leaking gutters/pipes or defective pointing or brick work can be found the problem will be down to inadequate materials. A lot of people don't understand that moisture is actually diffusing through walls from inside to out.
Paul Mooney hi paul thanks for watching the videos and you comments, firstly inert materials are not alive and they have no internal organs so do not breath. Sorry to bring that to your attention you must be crushed. Water as a gas will travel through all materials except glass, it just travels at different rates depending on different factors including density and air pressure. There are alternatives but we are showing the way we have chosen to use and guarantee that has been tried and tested. Get in touch via our website for more info thanks for being a super fan, we love you.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW Hi Simon, thanks for breaking the news to me over internal organs not quite what I meant. I just thought your training at the PCA may have tought you about breatherability in buildings but as the course is only 3days long they must not have had time to cover that area??. I'll take the training what I learned on my 3year Bsc and apply it to my surveys.
Thanks Simon
Paul Mooney again you can contact me via our website to speak about this but you won’t. Buildings can’t breath full stop positive and negative air pressure and moisture traveling through the fabric as a gas ( water vapour) no breathing but I know what your trying to say. I see your bsc and raise you with my HNC and 35 years experience in the industry, has it really come to this, top trumps with initials, seriously ditch your made up profile and contact me via our website if you want to chat (but you won’t)
Thanks for being a fan, glad you like the interactive value we give.
That does not work the pathway is to high what a wast of money
Janet Picot hi thanks for watching, I respect you right to reply and see that you have noticed the high ground. What would you have done on this property?
'' We'll point these up and it'll look the same colour as the brick work''. No matter what you do, you will always see the holes.
I think you need to go back to whoever trained you Sam and get your money back because they have been teaching you complete bollox.
Peter Gambier not sure what you mean but your entitled to your opinion. The pointing is hardly noticeable when finished. We don’t drill into the brick just the joint.
What I meant is what I said Simon, even the most skilled plasterer in the world is never going to get rid of a patch repair, at least you drilled into the mortar and thank goodness you didn't go into the brick like the last rising damp repair specialists did and sure, it's a good idea what you did but is completely pointless because whatever is causing the issues from gutter problems to mortar dropped by the bricklayer from above onto the wall tie or built up rubbish that hadn't been cleared out will not be cured by this system, the problem will still be there and it hasn't gone away. I have seen some amazing damp 'cures' over the years, one of the funniest were long tubes of absorbent stuff drilled into the wall which could be pulled out, dried and put back in again. What is so sad is that the vulnerable householder does not know any difference and is blinded by the bewildering array of cure methods available.
Folks just end up being confused and are really none the wiser.
I'm sure that deep down you are a nice person and mean well but I would desist from doing this work anymore because it's really not right charging people for 'snake oil', it doesn't work and never will.
Peter Gambier well peter the work is guaranteed and has worked and the customer is happy so it looks like we have been doing something right for the last 18 years.
@@petergambier when done properly this method can provide a physical barrier to stop any more damp from rising. I don't know why your talking about leaking gutters as that won't cause rising damp unless your claiming that the water that leaks from the gutter will bounce and splash back off the floor and penetrate in to and ride up the brickwork from there. If that is your claim then I would point out that your damp course be it physical or an after build solution like this should be installed no more than 150mm from floor level.
Now I get that there are lots of CZcams videos and a guy posting videos exposing the corrupt side of the damp proofing industry, I myself have seen the video where he explains that most damp surveyors use damp metres that are designed to measure damp in timber.
None of this changes the fact that this man who is a responsible contractor is injecting a cream that acts as a damp barrier, when injected at the top of every perpendicular mortar joint then damp can no longer progress past this barrier. Striking damp and roofing damp are completely different, yes there are crooks in the damp industry conning people when they don't actually have issues with rising damp.
I'm a builder of forty years and a matter carpenter so I'm basing my knowledge on exactly that-- knowledge and experience, I'm not just watching some CZcams videos and they having a pop art a decent bloke.
In the unlikely event of a damp course failing which does happen on older properties then I would install a new physical damp course but this injection system will stop further rising damp. 🙂
@@garethheathcote4988 Good morning. I gave up responding to the man with all the made up letters next to his name. When you drill into the mortar and inject the gunge that's just about it, it goes no further. Sure it penetrates the mortar but it doesn't wick out through the mortar enough to form the barrier that it's supposed to do (according to the makers of these damp-proofing systems) so therefore the gunge injected into each hole will only penetrate the render a little way, it cannot join the other gunge from the holes drilled 6'' away either side to form the barrier, therefore what's the point of doing this work apart from making lots of money doing an unnecessary and pointless bit of work?
It's good to have a talk with another builder without coming to blows or verbal fisticuffs over complete bollox, life is too short so stop doing this con work and stick being a wood butcher.
I've been working repairing old buildings and lime putty plastering since about 1996 I started out a labourer and then trained as a gypsum plasterer in the 80's when I started lime was complete bollox, but have seen it isn't and it works.
Have not got a clue at all.....
Glyn Williams do you want to expand on what you said, I’ll explain anything you want if you haven’t got a clue.
Most of your methods ruin old houses and brickwork. Simple.
Sealing in moisture using non breathable materials, cement rendering, injecting damp proof course.
Original materials should only be used.
Hi and thanks for taking time to watch and comment. It’s obvious you don’t understand how moisture effects walls of building so all I can say is have a look at some of the manufacturers technical sheets or PCA literature. Using words like breathable when referring to inate materials shows your ignorance. The systems We show were developed to improve our industry.
TEO C Every person in every home in the country, regardless of location, architectural significance, heritage value, levels of monthly income, or personal circumstance; deserves to live in a dry, comfortable building free of rot, mould and damp. The Property Care Association will continue to work with members to deliver this service safely, affordably and sensitively with regard to the needs and wishes of the people who live in the buildings, as well as to the property they call home.