Replacing Plug Wires on an LT1 Trans Am F-Body--2 Endings?!
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- If you need to replace the plug wires on your LT1 F-body, this video will walk you through it with tips intended to help you through the somewhat difficult process. In the end, the miss is gone and the 25th Trans Am is running like a champ again!!! Or is it.........???
If you have any suggestions, please comment below. Be sure to like and subscribe if you're not already. Thanks for watching!
Music:
Shawl Paul Norma Rockwell
I had similar issues with my 1993 Trans Am, misfires , backfires, stalls and no start issues. A new optispark fixed the misfire problem. Then I replaced the Ignition Control Module, installed a MSD coil and changed out the coil wire. My problems still persisted. I then began to look at the electrical connections to the ignition system. With the process of elimination, I cleaned each connection and tested the outcome. The fix was the electrical connections going to the coil. I cleaned each pin and bent the pins slightly to make a better connection. I have put a 1,000 miles on the vehicle without issues.
great advice Charles. I'll look into it!
I have a 96 trans am... I made the attempt to change out my plugs and wires... Driver side no problem, then I got to the passenger side (Holy Shit Batman)!?... What in the world were the engineers and designers at GM thinking!?... Well to get the spark plug number 8 I had to remove the starter... To change out the wire I had to remove the alternator as well.. I tell you during this time I was not a very good Christian...
Driver side was a breeze . Passenger side iVe been on for 2 days now 😂
I took a look at it, tried to get my hands in from the top and the bottom, only able touch #4 I think. Never could see or touch 2 or 8. Got out from under the car, bolted the p.s. pump and alternator back on and walked away. It's not possible, at least not for me.
Memorial day project ahead for me on a 1994 Z28 . Thanks to your videos I've managed to squirrel away long list of parts and while I have the front of the engine apart I will do the plugs and wires and pray for a passing emissions test now that NW ind is open for biz..thanks again for all your tips
One of the pros of going to long tubes is also going to over the valve cover wires in the process. Much easier to get to now.
I put 3 opti sparks in before I finally got one that wasn’t screwed up and 2 of them were msd opti’s. Picked up an ac delco one that finally worked.
Mine has been AC Delco since I installed it last...
I had replaced mine several times .. but I got stuck this time around .. your video helped, specifically about loosening the bolts that you called out, on the passenger side ..thanks for the tip
Excellent video. I have a 97 ws6, original owner. I hate working on it as GM never thought about someone having to replace broken parts. It's almost purposefully designed to tick you off :). I've driven it maybe 2000 miles since 2005 when I bought a truck, lol. I finally got around to repairing the AC yesterday and the master cylinder blew up internally when I went for a test ride...and now I got the itch to replace everything that's wrong or likely to die soon..maybe I'll sell it, maybe not.... In the next few weeks I'm going to rip it apart and replace : master cylinder, all calipers, rotors, shoes, radiator level sensor, water pump, fuel pump (already did that twice), Optisparkless, serpentine belt, upper and lower hoses and thermostat. While I'm in there, it just makes sense to swap out things that are likely to fail...anything else you can think of ? It only has 89,000 miles, but sitting around for years in Michigan, Arizona and Florida has taken its toll on platic and rubber.
Twice replaced fuel pump?! WOW...that's an in-tank unit, right? I need to flush my brake lines in a couple of my cars...I'm sure all the brake fluid is totally water soaked just from age. Brakes on this car have always been sketchy when I run through water puddles. I replaced front rotors with cross-drilled ones and performance pads as well as steel braided lines many years ago which only helped a little. Sounds like you're tackling a lot of good things. If you're like me, you may be simply chasing your problem and replacing parts "unnecessarily" but these cars are so old, it can't hurt. Maybe also the EGR valve, possibly fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator (I have one but haven't put it in yet). Anything else I may recommend is more specific to my problems: Throttle Position Sensor, Air Temp sensor, O2 sensors, water temp sensor, etc. I would definitely replace plugs, wires and coil when you do the Optisparkless (LOL!)
Good job
The area next to the a.c. compressor is real tight! Welcome to the little evils of
the gen2 lt1.
thats why i just deleted my ac
That’s for sure love my car but it’s too much work and damn gm for that design
When we replaced the fuel pump, I am not sure we didn't go cheap and bty a lower quality one. The symptoms were that when cooled a bit it did run, but stopped when warmed up. But the stopping and not starting sounds similar. The quick fix was pounding something against the back of tank, then it started. The real fun is removing rear end to get to tank/fuel pump, if this might be it. Studebakers have a simpler system. LOL. Cheers, Dad
These videos are super helpful man. Thank you for doing these.
Hey that ABS inop light, do yourself a favor and check your third brake light. If one is blown out, it will throw that light on.
I've found the rear speed sensor are huge culprits with an ABS light.. Guys, if u have an OBD I LT1, get Scan9495 program + a cable.. Helps diagnosis problems, check abs/CEL codes.. Used program for ABS light, was indeed rear speed sensor.. But noone sells them anymore.. PITA!
@@whosbetterthanme Thx for tip on SW...bringing my 94 Z back to life.
Glad you finally figured out the misfire. I watched your video on replacing the optispark and it inspired me to do a major tuneup on my 95 Z28. I started beginning of April and just finished it yesterday. I used all AC Delco parts except the Opti. I bought a Summit Racing brand Opti. I did have trouble with the first Opti I bought. After putting back together I had a bad misfire that wasn’t there before. Long story short after checking all wires and pulling each plug I decided to pull the Opti. Well it had cracks all around the cap. moisture got in when I bled the system and ruined the Opti. I didn’t notice this when I unboxed it. Got another Summit Opti sent to me, installed it and now she runs beautifully. These LT1’s really run and sound great when they are Properly firing on all cylinders. Great videos btw they help me out a lot.
Just put a new cap & rotor on your OEM opti, use blue loctite on the rotor screws so the screws dont back out after 2K any opti other than OeM is a downgrade you wont find a more reliable optical sensor anywere other than OeM petris opti says they use oem sensors but idk never had a petris opti.
Hi my friend. I have a 94 trans am. That I'm restoring. I usually take the plug wires off and on doing underneath.
Also, if you’re going to keep the car what other people do is they use the longer wires to keep it away from the heat or if there’s enough clearance go with the OPTi spark eliminator
When it comes to an LT1, MSD is the best way to go. Much more reliable and you can get a vented distributor even on the pre-94 LT1 which never came with a vacuum port like later models which helps keep the distributor clean and moisture free. definitely make sure you check the ignition coil also that is bolted to the ignition module because those tend to burn out over time. plus make sure you use thermal paste and not dielectric grease because dielectric grease will burn up your new modular and also burn up your coil..on those spark plug wires I would go ahead and get the heavy-duty boot protectors like what you see on the small block Chevys because it will save you on buying new wires sooner and you won't have burned up wires anymore. I went to those on both my Firebirds with LT1s and it was one of the best investment I ever made. I'm glad she's running good again. Definitely get an ac Delco coolant level sensor. the cheap auto parts stores ones do not last very long and you'll have the same problem that you started with believe me I learned the hard way.. awesome video. Thank you for this awesome video..
Thanks @LTJohn! All great inputs!
@@FearlessMods absolutely. I actually started a channel myself. If you'd like, feel free to check it out. 👍
Msd is a hit or miss & there opti sensors are not better than O.E.M there are oem optis with 300k on them still going strong like taxi cabs just put a new cap & rotor on your oem delco which is regular maintence anyways at certain milage your good to go, if u go msd cap and rotor watch so the msd rotor dont scrape the black isolator that covers the opti disk there prone to do that .
I'm using all MSD. Opti spark coil plug wires with NGK in my 383 stroker LT1..
Thanks for this video man... I recently acquired a 1998 Cameron and think it's gonna be just as much fun
Im pulling out my exhaust header on my 95 Z28.. Im installing LT headers..More power is good but Im really doing it to make spark plug & wire replacement easier.. I've been chasing a misfire/stumble over 4k rpm for yrs.. No CEL at all to help in diagnosis.. wires/plugs & optispark are the 3 Achilles heel in these cars.. And all are PITA to change out
I feel your pain went through the same drama with my 94formula after quarantine I'm going with the Torquehead coil per cylinder ignition system on my car. another added benefit of this setup is. it bumps 93-95 cars up to obd2. Because it uses the computer from
the LS Chevy engine.
@@vincentfisher5895 same here, just got done saving up to purchase the kit as well. Can't wait to have my 95 formula drivable again
If possible .post pictures or videos of install and test drive.
I had the same symptoms in a 94LT one with 21,000 miles. It was the optispark
Its your opti man just spend the money and replace it dont cheap out and get an acdelco one MSD is hit or miss and anything else is garbage Ive had back to back optis bad out of the box also check your other ignition components such as the coil and ICM make sure all grounds are connected aswell
Attempted to replace plugs and wires after watching your video. Could never get that #7 wire free after trying for 4 days at different times. Think I was under the car for 10 hours total. Just moved forward with the old wire and moved on to the passenger side. Removed the alternator and p.s. pump, took a good hard look at everything and put it all back together and walked away. The passenger side needs the motor dropped out. I have not idea how you pulled it off in the engine bay. It's certainly beyond my abilities to accomplish.
The pain is real…and shared!
Thanks for the video
Jejejejeje the lt1 Is a eggs dolor but Is very funy car repair
I did the left bank rear plugs and all the wires from the bottom. Made it much easier to get that heat shield that’s bolted to the block off and route #7 wire. . J/s
I couldn't even find the rear bolt of the two that think bolted on with. Tried to find it for hours. You did better than I did. Took a good look at the passenger side and actually quit working on it. It would actually be easier to drop the motor from what I could figure out.
This is the reason lt1 cars are not that desirable .such a pain in the ass to work on.
Msd opti msd coil and new delco ignition module . Problem fixed 👍
Pink wire passanger side on harness. Wire went bad with vibration. It power the ignition system
is there a check engine light on?
if not = recheck the plug wires and make sure they are fully seated on the spark plugs and distributor.
also, check the battery terminal to make sure its fully on (assuming you unplugged it when you took the alternator off)
CEL wasn't on. Wires and battery secure.
I was going to buy one of these cars... but the optispark problems was what turned me against it. If a 98 or later version comes around, i'd get it. Ls1 motor.
Hey biff i as well live in Lombard IL and just picked up a 94 LT1 Firebird Formula... AND ITS WHITE LOL ! seen your youtube channel as im looking for fixes and have almost the exact same issues.. im chasing with this car... i like your youtube channel because you seem like a regular guy as myself trying to get the job done . I did pick up ALDL cable and have some software i installed on laptop seen your videos of your trouble code issues... keep the channel going, looking forward to more vids... What are your plans with this car just keep it stock or you going to do some upgrades? Lets keep in touch both being IL ins and such !
Liberty Auto Subaru in Libertyville, IL was a sponsor for my STi build. I still need to take it up there to visit them and if/when I do, I'd be coming through or near Lombard it looks like.
Thanks for the video. Can you please tell me how you managed to reach the last plug and boot on the passenger side? I only see one way, which is by going under the car.... however, the starter is in the way. Thx
15:25. From the top by scraping up my skinny arms! 😣
@@FearlessMods you're THE man for courteously replying.....many thanks! Did you pass your arm under the manifold to reach #8? I'll try that out since my arms are also fairly thin.
@@03Lorac yes, as I recall, I reached down forward of most of the blockage, and then snaked my arm backwards below the manifold
@@FearlessMods unreal how they designed the layout. I love my 95 (all original) but really hating its quirks. Anyway, keep well and enjoy. Hats off to you sir.
I replaced the water pump on a 1997 trans am, got everything back together and all of a sudden there is the coil wire. Is there a way to hook up the coil wire without removing the water pump. I share your frustration, I didn't take the coil wire off, not sure how that happen. I do appreciate your sense of humor.
ken Harkema the coil wire that transfers the spark from coil to opti should just push in from the top left (aft looking fwd) and doesn’t require water pimp removal. Are you referring to a different wire?
Buy a good scan tool or the hardware and software to get into the ECM. LT1/4 great engine that builds nice power and smooth torque curve. But they are finicky. Been working on them now for 12-13 years. Finally quit running diagnostic tests with a multi meter and bought a scan tool. Best investment. Takes you to the problem, let's you do systems tests. Your other buddy should be a power probe.
I've got the power probe, but it takes a college class to know how to use the thing. I usually default to my Harbor Fright multimeter for ease of use...
Any suggestions for the passenger side? Removed the alternator and p.s. pump. Looked around and decided the a.c. needed to come off and the exhaust as well. That was not possible in the car so I'm guessing you have to drop the engine to finish a tuneup?
That’s a beautiful Firebird! I have a’95 Cadillac Fleetwood with the LT1. They’re great engines. Mines got 178,000 miles on it and it’s still going strong. The best thing I ever did to it was replace the fuel injectors with a set of Bosch ones that I got from Fuel Injector Connection. Check out his website if you get a chance. It really made a huge difference in performance on my car. I don’t know his name but he really knows his stuff. He flow tests every set he sells. I can’t recommend his company enough.
Thanks for the vids.
Opti I put one on my Lt1 had to change it out 3 days later just my thought
Opti, you got ahold of a bad one
Fuel filter / fuel pump ?
Do you work on other people's cars? My 97 camaro needs plug wires.
Sorry Dave but I do not.
I know I'm late to this video, but I now need to change my 94 spark pug wires. Just how many hours did you spend to replace the wires? Did I miss that somewhere?
Going back through the timestamps on the original clips, it looks like it was about 5-1/2 hours.
Sounds like a bad optispark. Like I said before .those parts store optisparks are sketchy they lack the precision
Of the original GM optispark
that was discontinued 10 years ago.
MSD is the way to go for those. Totally agree..
I ran a GM optispark with a MSD vented cap and rotor. car
ran great for 18 months. then
died during morning rush hour traffic in 2017 . Had enough of
The POS optispark and the work involved installing it in
a f body. After quarantine I'm going to rip out the opti and
install the Torquehead coil per cylinder ignition system.
So on day 3 cold start, starts up and revs fine for first 2-3 revs, then they start to stumble like it's getting richer and richer until it chokes itself out and dies...
Doesn't sound like optispark to me...sounds like something isn't talking to the computer correctly. Maybe back to O2 sensors?
@@FearlessMods Have you replaced the O2 sensors recently? Do you have 4 or just the 2 in the front?
Also, what spark plugs are you using currently?
@@FearlessMods You need an ALDL cable and Scan9495 program my friend. You can datalog everything that way and see what every sensor is reporting that way. I had a similar problem on my 94 Trans Am GT where a simple coolant temp sensor connector in the waterpump has loose and dropping out for a split second. When it lost connection for that tiny bit the pcm defaulted to -40F and ran pig rich stalling and bucking heavy. When i reviewed my logs i could see where it went from say 190f to -40f in a second then back to 190f. The cable is cheap from aldlcable .com and software is free. Good luck.
@@bovinemarauder I haven't, but have long suspected them. If I ever compile all the footage for the sensor evals, you'll see where the O2 sensors are all over the place. Tired of replacing everything just chasing the problem, but that may make good sense with it running so rich!
@@JL___ just as discussed with @bovinemarauder in this thread, I think you're on to something. I've seen O2 sensors all over the map just like you're describing the water temp. I already replaced the temp sending unit, so maybe I'll try O2 sensors next.
😮😮
Did you ever fix this issue if so wat was if
Sadly, not yet. About to dive back in though!
@@FearlessMods thanks man mine won't start I'm thinkin crankshaft sensor but idk im lost at this point
Scan9495 is a great program to diagnose problems on OBD 1 & OBD 1.5 LT1 cars.. I've used it for years in my 95Z.. Its basically a free scan tool
How Much It Cost You For All?
I don't have the total for everything I've continued to do, but it just keeps adding up!
Anyone looking for a good Optispark. Go to EBay and look up the seller optisparksolutions1 Bought one from him and works great. He uses Mitsubishi sensors.
Yeah, you have to refinance your home to buy one of them..I'll go with cheaper one w warranty
Did you find the issue?
I did Hector....ignition module....future video!
@@FearlessMods nice, I just replaced my opti and putting her back tonight. Yours is a 94?
*your LT1
Optispark
NGK plugs
My Fleetwood rides better, ha ha.