Integrated Carbon Handlebars for £22 - The ultimate bargain???
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- I paid £22 for my set of Toseek integrated carbon bars. So what are they like, and how do they compare to a standard aluminium bar and stem?
SIROKO CLOTHING LINK - Additional 10% off - srko.co/tracevelo
A cheap set of carbon fibre bars from AliExpress or eBay can make a fantastic lightweight upgrade for your road bike, but how cheap is too cheap?
In 2019 I was browsing eBay for some bike parts and picked up picked up a set of integrated carbon handlebars from a brand called Toseek, priced at £22.67. I’ve been using them for the last 18 months on my Chinese carbon disc brake setup, and they’ve performed pretty well.
But should you get a pair, and how do they compare to a standard aluminium bar and stem, especially when it comes to comfort, the amount of flex, and the all-important weight?
Got any questions or comments, stick them below 👇 and I'll try and get back to as many of you as I can!
Toseek Handlebar Stats:
Stem length - 100mm
Width - 400mm
Reach - 89mm
Drop - 130mm
Clamp diameter - 28.6mm
Angle - 10 degrees
Weight - 331g
Timestamps:
00:00 - Start
00:44 - Sponsor segment
02:15 - Intro
04:20 - Closeup
06:59 - Weight and comparison
08:18 - Flex test
10:32 - Cable routing & design flaws
14:07 - The good stuff
15:31 - Final Thoughts
Intro roll:
Created by Dev Joshi - www.go2dev.co.uk
About Trace Velo:
I love cycling, and I love getting pro cycling kit for less. If it’s cheap, from China, and made of carbon fibre, I’m interested!
Instagram:
/ tracevelo
Email:
tracevelouk@gmail.com
Please note:
With the exception of Siroko, all other products demonstrated in this video have been purchased by me, and I have no affiliation to any of the sellers or vendors shown.
In addition, I am not a professionally trained bike mechanic. There can be risks associated with using products that are unbranded, untested, or come from sources where the provenance is unknown. Please talk to a qualified bike mechanic if you are in any doubt.
In essence, be careful, do your research, and cycle safe!!! - Sport
Your show provides a super valuable service to the cycling community, nobody else does long term testing of lots of bargain componentry, also you have a dope steed, that anyone aside from possibly some dedicated label checkers, would call a fine bit of machinery, showing everyone that you don’t have to pay top dollar to roll hard.
Benjamin, awesome comment, thanks so much!!!! Yeah with parts like these, initial impressions are often not really enough, you have to get some decent miles on them first.
Couldn't agree more.
Damn even took the time to set and run flex tests!! amazing, Luke! Thanks for the content, top notch as always.. The honesty in highlighting the bad stuff and that it outweights the good stuff, this is what makes your channel one of the best around.
now about those Elite Drive wheels, that's a nice carbon pattern!! it caught me off guard, first photo looked plain black but in the sun it turns into something else! Really looking forward to the review and also the gravel bike build!
Awesome, thanks Stefano! But yeah the carbon pattern on the wheels intially looks like its a bit scratched up in the pictures, but the patten is REALLY lovely in person. I'll def hightlight it more in the review!
Always top-notch info on your channel.
Another great video Luke, loved the little clip of MCA - keep it up!
Thanks mate, quality video as always
Have to say man what a grat channel you go into such detail and are totally honest in reviews!!!! love it
Thanks Tom, I put loads of effort into these videos, so glad you like them!!!
As always, a well thought out, entertaining & thorough review. Bars can be made one piece, monocoque, which is much more costly due to separate molds for each size. Or as you said, doing it in sections which may be more cost effective for the manufacturer but both methods if done properly are equally as good because this is the same method that is used in bike manufacturing regardless of brand. I didn't go integrated but my bars are designed for STI shifters with the hole placements & seem fairly stiff. Not sure if its because they are T800 Toray vs the normal T700 used but I like them alot.
Ok great, thanks Montana! Yeah I think the theory about it being made in sections probably holds up. Anyway thanks for the comment!
Thanks-I just got an upgraded version from aliexpress. I think they took your input to heart, and the holes seem bigger for cabling. We shall see about the longevity, but they seem quite high value for money
I think the darker areas might be a part where they switch to unidirectional carbon, because that will be more flexible for the shifters to be connected to it without cracking. The rest is 3k carbon which is stronger but more brittle
Great Video as always. Real enjoy listening to your thoughts!
Cheers Peter!!!!
I had the same issue with my toseek bars (none integrated) so ran them externally. They’ve been on the bike just over two years now without issue. The bars look really good on the bike and were a bargain at £33 posted 😬
Waiting for the gravel bike build video to drop soon 🥰
Have used Toseek handlebars, the same as the ones you use on your rim brake bike, for more than 4 years with no issues. Well worth the price.
I’m a pretty heavy rider 90kg and have the straight toseek integrated bars and like you have had no issues for 3 years.. they’re more comfortable than the aero bars on my canyon ultimate (which maybe because they’re not quite as stiff) but I’m super happy with them!
Nice, good to hear some more success stories in the comments!
super great video Luke!! I was aware about the flexibility of that specific AliExpress handlebars that's why I chose a different model ( TR5500) because it's scary when you're a heavy rider and put some watts in a Sprint ... All in all I really like those handlebars but don't like to be the guy who back home riding without handlebars...or in an ambulance 🚑😆 !
Muchas gracias por tu vídeo 👌
Hi Luke, nice content.
This is the reason for me as gravel cyclist/home mechanic. I prefer non integrated bar stem combo, easier adjustment and replacement.
And i have externally cable routed modern steel gravel bike. Easy to maintain and inspect.
Waiting for your gravel bike build dude.
Yeah totally fair. In fact for the gravel build, i'm going separate bar and stem... Just makes life SO much easier!
@@TraceVelo another piece of advice I learned from raul luechter technique. Use stem that has large contact area AKA small hole in the steerer clamp area to reduce point loading in the steerer tube especially carbon one.
Cheers. 💪💪
Agree, but the (small) weight and (significant) aero advantages are relatively compelling for a road bike. Looks great too🤗
yes yes yes - a new video from you - thank you - amazing content :)
Yay a new Trace Velo video :D
Hey Luke, as always that was a mildly entertaining and informative video, well done! But now I'm sitting here wondering what light you have there on your bike and I'm especially interested about the mount. Cheers mate!
I've bought many (many) Toseek items, too, over the past few years. No bad experiences, so far,. Generally, I like the look and performance of their products, and find their prices very competitive.
Excellent Beasties drop! Cool video too
Great, honest review. 👍 FYI, Ive bought a Toseek aero seatpost and two sets of more modern integrated bars directly from DengFu ($100). No problems whatsoever. Brilliant, in fact.
Nice, good to hear!!!
I have had the exact same bars for a couple of years. Mine have been absolutely fine, and they really do look great.
I actualy managed to get both the brke lines and the gear cables through the original holes, but I did need to smooth out some sharp corners to do so. ie, there was a bit of needle-file action required but the holes remained the same size.
The whole bike is a mix of cheap chinese carbon and Ultegra. The only things that have failed were a whole load of spoke nipples (I am quite heavy). That really turns out to be due to my "too cheap to be true "Mavic" wheels" actually being too cheap to be true... (Confirmed as bogus by Mavic, and with spoke tension literally off the scale of my meter)
Thank you for an another great episode!
Glad you liked it!
Been waiting for a video like this.. I have been looking at those exact same bars from Aliexpress. That square profile is a definate red flag for me. Thanks for you excellent content and great videos!
Glad I could help! But yeah the square profile of the drops is such an odd design choice, makes clamping on the shifters a massive pain.
Its been a while Luke, good to see you to a new vlog for another carbon handle bar.
On the video shown, expiremental drop with weights on drops. It feel like what happened on your friends Tossek carbon handle. Snap on the middle of handle.
I got news for you hehe, Now i also Got MicroNew 2x9 setup pair with Sora r3000 FD & RD. its so good and crisp, So easy to shift. Nothing to worry. Its almost been a month when i used it.
Thanks for the review, now i got good Groupset.
I'm diggin those bib-shorts. Ima have to order a pair of those. Thanks for teaming up and introducing me to Siroko.
No worries Jared! Yeah the bib shorts are great, and they look really slick too!
I really appreciate how objective you are about both the pros and cons of the gear you review.
@16:00 Curious as to what constitutes a heavier rider. I'm about 82kg/190cm...
Yeah fair comment, so I weigh 74kgs, and would consider myself a relatively light rider. Sounds like you are in good shape too for 190cm! But I think once you stray above the 95kg range and up, some of the super lightweight components may not be the best choices. Cycling is open to literally everyone at any size really, but when it comes to the SUPER lightweight components, riding safe is paramount, so I think it just comes down to being sensible at the end of the day.
Quality video man. Just love ❤️!!! Haha! Looking forward to the gravel bike build!
You and me both!
Hi Luke another great vid, it's been a long time since the last one! Lol. Great as usual, I have the same bars and think they're pretty good. I had to slightly file the cable holes as I felt they were slightly undersized, and got rid of the sharp edges to avoid cable cuts. Cheers Buddy
Thanks! Yeah its been a while since the last upload. Life stuff has piled up this past month, so its been difficult to carve out enough time to bash videos out. Glad you liked it though, and good to know i wasn't the only one breaking out the files for these bars 🤣
Hi Luke. A great methodical vid. I have had some experience working with carbon composites on yachts. Looking at the drops, the dark patches to me look as though the carbon hasn’t properly conformed to the surface of the mould (although might just be looking at a small screen!) leaving a thick layer of resin. Moulding the drops separately would be a nightmare with hours of rework to surface the joint, not ideal for a £22 set of bars so imagine they don’t do that. A concern here is that the thick resin matrix would be considered a point of failure as alone it doesn’t have much strength. (💭 I wonder what the cross section of that area looks like?).
Where you filed the holes, as these bars don’t scream structural longevity, I’d be hesitant to do that, although I understand the desire. You could seal the exposed edges with a resin or similar which might help prevent stress fractures that might occur near the exposed fabric.
It would be interesting if you you did a part two where you cut these in half so that we could see the internal quality, looking at the uniformity in cross section throughout the bar, looking for thin, thick bits of layup, voids from dirt or air. Although aesthetically the ripples aren’t to much of a problem they may cause imperfections and voids below them increasing risk of failure.
Saying all this I’ve got a ToSeek seat post on my roadie and can’t complain 😁
Keep on keeping on Trace!
Im riding a carbon MTB riser (noname) on my Omnium cargo now for a year now, and it works great, there is of course flex in them especially when im climbing but it doesn't feel sketchy at all in the end it's still a very long bar (74cm). Now that im building a new project ( 29" hardtail mtb) i orderd a new Toseek riser (74cm) and i think they wont dissapoint me again.
Just because its "china carbon" doesnt mean they are crap since most of the carbon products even the stuff from big brands is made in china aswell.
i really enjoy your videos man thanks.
your vids are the best!
I have the triaero gravel bike same color with the Ican wheel set, panaracer gravel king 38 mm tires and Shimano GRX 800 group set. I love the bike, handling is great and very comfortable.
Have had that bar on my Sp Roubaix. Real nice. No worries for "flex", at all. Like most drops, they could use a bit more "flat" area at the top curve-to-the-levers. Like where one's hands settle on when hold the horns. Ohhh...I build catamarans, using CF/epoxy. Not that I know what's under that black-finish, but it might be an epoxy-rich area, to reinforce the joined-parts. A black-dyed epoxy surface coat will do that. Again, about that "flex", that's a GOOD thing. If one spills, and the bars don't bend or break, but, rather "flex", it'll make the difference at getting back on the ride! Flex=Good ))) Ohhhh...no worries for your hole-widening...CF/epoxy is an amazing composite!! (wouldn't get a CF-frame, though. AL is king, for me)))
excellent, thank you for sharing. your videos are awesome and very informative.
Glad you like them!
I agree Luke, black areas are likely two pieces epoxied together, sanded and then spayed black to cover up.
Ok nice, thanks for confirming KM!
Ive had all sorts of cheap Toseek bike stuff throughout the years since maybe 2017 lol. Value for money. You dont know how great your channel is. I think you're the only cycling CZcamsr that focuses on affordable road bike stuff. Too many purists with deep pockets out there Lool
i really watch these for the jammer intro. All the funny shit and bike stuff is like a bonus!
Another top quality trace velo production 😎
Cheers Stuart!!!! 🙏🙏🙏
Carbon, in similar configuration to alloy can be stiffer and stronger. I have to round diameter carbon bars that are stiffer than the alloy bars they replaced and much lighter. However, carbon can be designed to flex which is often used to create compliance for absorption of vibrations transmitted from the road surface. For example Lauf makes a "smoothie" drop bar that does a great job of reducing vibration transmission to the hands. The bars you tested are an example of flex inherent in the design (flattened surfaces) and lack compensation for strength.
There are hundreds of options of integrated handlebars on aliexpress. I chose one that have like a channel on the bottom to run the cables so you don't have to pass them inside de bar. They were more expensive at 100 usd but I like them.
Love the content as always. Good sense of humour mate. I’m pretty sure that carbon frame is the same as my Dolan frame and the Planet X space chicken or on one. Can’t remember which. I built a gravel bike from one from light carbon for my misses. It’s a mega bike. Less than half the price of what I payed from Dolan for my frame.
Nice, yeah i can't wait to get the gravel bike built up.... Might try it this weekend!
Two drops is all you get... Great video again Luke - thanks!
Correct. When a CF pattern is not seamless, joins have been used. These joins are then ‘glued’ to the rest of the frame with black tar looking glue. The cheaper way of working with CF.
Don’t worry, it’s the same story on higher end products too however they do not use joins. The outer layer is kept naked and extra layers applied to the inside of a tube or frame where the parts meet.
Got some Toseek full carbon forks on my 29 er ATB gravel bike conversion. Can't fault them, very nice :)
I fitted a cheap toseek carbon fork to a cheap mountain bike that had a heavy rough old suntour spring fork and turned it into a fairly lightweight run around town bike and I think it's great. I'm not sure I'd recommend it on safety grounds - not knowing how consistent this cheap carbon is. Mine hasn't failed and feels really solid but others might not be so lucky
Have some similar one to these on my Scott. Been dope thus far!
Luke's sweater is the perfect texture to really fuck with video compression
Lovely content Luke! I would think the extra flex in the carbon handlebars is not a terrible thing, allows the bars to soak up bumps a little more and smooth the ride out.
Nevermind, thats exactly what you said after I posted the comment...
No problem! Yeah the flex is definitely a good thing, but the amount here is a little disconcerting tbh... But having said that, my set are still fine!
You will love the gravel frame, it's exceptional.
Ok great! Yeah im super excited to get it built. Might have to give it a go this weekend!
love your videooss!!!
Love your video. Wish you have XC MTB to review.
Bought the exact same Toseek integrated bar in mid 2020, Price was 80 USD 😂😂. Still rockin solid today.
I have 2 Toseek carbon handlebars both very good, I'm happy with them. My local bike shop in Thailand fitted for me so no issue for me 😁
Ok nice, thanks for sharing! Yeah Toseek definitely have some decent stuff out there!
Keep up the good work
Cheers Neil!
I have the brand x mtb bars and stem on my track bike, apart from a few scratches from when I went over my bars they’re amazing
Regarding fishing cables through carbon - it is amazingly fast to tape a small neodymium magnet to the cable and then guide it along with an external magnet. I no longer even hesitate to pull cables out and redo them. IT IS JUST TOO FAST.
Liked for the outro! :D
Thanks Nik! I was exhausted by the last take... The beastie boys got me through it!
@@TraceVelo Thank god for The Beasties!
Toseek and EC90 seems to have a good buy. I have a EC90 hander bar on my MTB and EC90 stem on my RB
As always good reviews
Thanks for amazing content - you've sent me down an amazingly fun rabbit hole (bike build)... and was that a rabbit hole or black hole?
As a former triathlete, I love "aero bars". I also love the concept of the "aero shaped" handlebars. Who makes a workable combo of the two together? I've heard/read that clamping on carbon can be "no bueno". Are any aero handlebars made to be fitted with aero bars (so that I can finish the build of my dream bike)?
Side note: "experts" on youtube claim that aero handlebars compared to round make more difference than aero wheels. True or not, I'm sure there's some number of watts available with the aero handlebars (and I want those watts!).
I'm running a pair of Toseek branded compact bars in a 38mm width on my road bike, and they're well built and solid, with no flex at all. You can't go wrong with a quality bar like that at that price.
My toseek bars were super flexy
I have the cinelli ram 2, still hold up great!
I’ve got to say I gave Siroko a look from your recommendation and honestly I can’t fault them one bit! affordable. Really really good quality, nice looking clobber and delivered really quickly! and let’s be honest how good do these new grey bibs look!! Cheers Luke keep on keeping on!
Cheers Richie, great to hear!!!
Thank you so much for making my week! I love the enthusiasm and genuine passion! My favourite video for humour and as always, the objective analysis is informative and the opinion is fair, I think!
Can't wait to see the next one and if there was a "love it!" Button, I would smash it over and over!
P Wan!!!! Awesome comment, thanks so much dude 👊
Since I'm kinda heavy (81kg) and use my upper body a lot while riding, especially when sprinting and climbing, I stay away from carbon on my cockpit. I run cheap aluminium handlebars with a kalloy uno stem. The setup is light and stiff enough and I feel safe while riding it. However I find myself kinda often looking at chinese carbon bars like "the one" but I try to resist because the only reason to buy them for me are the looks..
I really enjoyed your review and I'm looking forward for the senicx pr2 review. I will get the senicx pr4 soon since I want to keep my 24mm bb!
Yeah thats a sensible approach. I dont do alot of sprinting, and I try to be relatively gentle in the drops with these bars, but 81kgs is definitely not heavy dude. Tbh I think you will probably be fine as long as you are not grasping the very ends of the drops and bunny hopping with them! Also the Senicx crank has been pretty bulletproof so far, but review coming soon!
Im sure the 'saftey feel' was greater after the filing!!
Toseek here too on some bars and seats/post and still good.
Nice, good to hear Tom!!!!
A gem of a channel I just found via the Sensah group set video. I’ve been following the Superstrata Indienogo ‘printed Carbon fibre bike’ for the past year or so….it has no seatpost, the original was to be ‘custom’ to numerous body measurements, now it’s just standard frame sizes….They also now say they can’t get the promised Shimano or SRAM group sets so are putting Rallex or ltwoo components on. Needless to say despite claims of already shipping bikes, nobody seems to have one…. Scam?
I have toseek Carbon seatpost- 1,500 php/30 USD , drops 1,200php/ 24 USD and stem 600 php/ 12 USD. I had no problems with them, been using them for 5 years now, 3 years daily ride, crashed twice, no cracks. I've read reviews that said its a waste of money and dangerous but worked out fine for me. I was skeptical when i recieved and inspected the products because of the rough and uneven distribution of carbon sheets. it really is a gamble when buying knockoffs.
Just to add my two Penneth. My Tooseek ones (not the integrated ones) failed after using them on just 3 rides. It was pretty bumpy and even though torqued correctly and using carbon paste the bars swivelled jn the stem on the bumps. After tightening them twice on one ride I removed them when home to find the that they had started to crack and delaminate under the stem fixing area. BTW I am only 60kgs. So take your choice but I am going back to aluminium even if they are a 100 grams or so heavier
“Rest assured, every expense was spared” 😂 love the video!
3:42 Loving the QC sticker.
😂🤣😂🤣😂
Quality is hit and miss ??
I think I’ll give them a miss as I would like to keep my face in one piece 😳😂😂
i recently upgraded from the giant conduct system to a 105 hydraulic set up. you're absolutely correct about the internal cable routing hassle. i used the same bar as your rim brake bike. i first attempted to route the cable inside the bars, but the holes just don't line up with the shifter/lever. you really have to kink the cable so it would go into the holes. i gave up and ended up just routing the cable the old fashion way - outside/under the bar. LOL. i do love the flat surface on the bar. it provides a wider contact surface and decreases the pressure against your hand.
Yeah cabling these bars, definitely a massive pain! But what do you think of the giant conduct system??? Basically i've never used it, but im going to be installing it on the gravel bike build, so anything to watch out for, or anything i should know about?
@@TraceVelo i think the conduct system is a great inexpensive way for folks who want to get into hydraulic brake but don't want to fork out too much money. i picked up a separate set of conduct sl and computer mount for $100US. i was also lucky to pick up a set of 105 hydraulic lever/caliber for $200US, which i installed on my giant defy. i'm planning to put the conduct sl on a velobuild frame that i got few months ago.
the drawback of this system is that there aren't many stem options; you pretty much have to go with a giant contact/connect stem. i have yet to find any after market stem that has the same bolt pattern as the conduct master cylinder.
the conduct set up is pretty straight forward. giant does suggest that you use compression-less housing from the lever to the master cylinder (i call it alien head, lol) to decrease any slack in the cable. i'm unsure if factory uses shifting cable, but the housing i took off had in-line strains, not spiral like the typical brake housing. one other thing you want to watch out for is the fluid port on the master cylinder. the opening is recessed so many bleeding kit fittings won't go deep enough to get a seal. i had to modify the fitting with dremel tool so it would screw all the way into the port.
i also like my free stroke very short. neither 105 nor conduct gives you the option to adjust that, so i followed a video by Bike Sauce czcams.com/video/thGBWhfIaB8/video.html and i was able to get my free stoke on 105 very short. the rotors need to be very true or you will get the rubbing.
looking forward to your gravel build!!!! cheers.
@@pantherv5 Ok amazing, thanks for the detail above! Yeah I got myself a compatible giant stem a few weeks back, but good shout on the compressionless cables! I think the kit i have came with cable outers, but good idea nonetheless. I also have a conduct specific bleed kit in the post too, so hopefully bleeding wont be too much hastle. Anyway thanks for the comment, super helpful!!!
@@TraceVelo just curious which conduct brake do you have? the older one or the SL??
Hi Luke,
Great content! I actually crashed with the same exact TOSEEK handlebars on a 1k km Bike trip. They snaped at the section where it gets darker and the carbon isn't visible. Since I had 300km left, I cut them to the point, where I could reclamp my shifter on. In any event your assumption is correct: they have not been made in one mold. The drops have a cone shaped section which is pushed and glued together inside the flats, at the darkened sections.
I've got pictures to show it, but I can't put them in a comment 🤷♂️
Btw. a UNO aluminium stem (
Ok great, yeah a couple of people in the comments have mentioed that they were probably molded in several parts, but thanks for confirming. If you do have any pictures of the snapped bar, send them over to my email (listed in the video description), I'd be really interested to see them! And good suggestion about the UNO stem, having more adjustability is def a good thing!
UNO stem is good and light. I use one too
@@TraceVelo I likely reason for them being squared, making it easier to line up the separate parts.
Possible they use a Uni directional carbon matrix on the suggested join area as opposed to the multi axial carbon used on the rest of the handlebar
Interesting testing and discussion. I suspect a lot of the flex in the carbon bars is due to the asymmetric shape and the accommodation of cable runs. A round handlebar designed for external cable runs has no such needs and would not suffer from these concessions to aesthetics and supposed aerodynamic efficiency.
Good looking bars. I want some for my Fuji.
The massive wide section is a huge reason you're not getting num hands.
I got some "Ryet" badged integrated bars from the mighty Aliexpress (the Lexon store) for £63 total and they are great - definitely recommend them. However they now appear to be >£100. At that price not sure I wouldn't just get separate (carbon) bar and stem or look for another brand - not because the Ryet aren't good, just too rich at that price for my blood. To me that have great balance between enough flex to help smooth out the road buzz but enough stiffness to feel totally confident in any situation.
Like the Toseek thay are a pain to cable up for the same reasons and because the holes all have a lip on the inside so you have to get the cable over the lip but through the hole. And that is a pain with KEB-SL cable outers (if you are using cable actuated disc brakes). In the end I had to first get a scrap of regular brake cable through, then gaffer tape that end to end with the KEB and pull through, but even then the tape kept catching on the lip so it a few goes and a *lot* of swearing to get the cable pulled through. If I were doing it again I would get a set of those files and not just widen the hole but also try to remove the lip. They also support fully integrated cabling if your frame & headset have it (mine doesn't) but I doubt that would work with KEB-SL and cable disc brakes - the corners are just too sharp and that's really only for hydraulic and di2/etap.
Would love to see hambini check these out
I'm very familiar with many AliExpress products but would *NOT* risk my teeth with cheap carbon handlebars...
Yeah fair enough, these cheaper parts arn't for everyone!
What a channel and I'm not even that much into cycling😂
I almost have a phobia about carbon bars and stems, the thought of them snapping mid ride gives me the willies. And I know aluminium can snap too, I even have a cheapo Carbon seat post and saddle rails and the thought of one of those parts sapping and sharp bit going where the sun doesn't shine should fill me with way more dread but it doesn't. 🤷♂
same here
I'm tempted by these............ for my turbo bike..... I'm thinking that for my bike which never leaves the turbo trainer and never on the road, these could be a nice bit of bling and if they snap while in the garage, it's a lot less carnage than out on the road.
@@AlexStavrinides You say that but unless you wear a helmet on the turbo things could actually be worse LOL Knowing my luck Id put my head straight through the TV I use for Zwift🤣
@@AlexStavrinides carbon has the advantage of corrosion resistance in the trainer environment!
For anyone who wants to recable a handlebar, i highly recommend picking yourself up a cabling tool.
You can then guide the cables from the outside with magnets.
There are a couple of different ones out there but really anyone will do.
I got myself a one from jagwire for 30€, it worked like a charm.
Hows that work on bars? Isn't the magnet only for inner cable in the frame?
@@adambrickley1119 you can guide the inner cable through and then you have a guide for the outer, you can just push it.
There is also an adapter for di2 and hydraulic.
Hi..saw that you are using a set of Elite Drive wheelset, will you be giving a review on them anytime soon? Thanks!
Yeah, my lunch is saved with a great Trace Velo production just in time.
can you also review about cheap chinese brake pads
Unless you are racing or sprinting all the time, some compliance in the bars can improve ride comfort for regular everyday cycling.
Yeah totally agree. For everyday riding these are awesome, it's just the level of flex at the ends of the drops, not super confidence inspiring. But its a trade-off i guess...
One man's flex is another man's compliance.
7:34 so when is the review coming out for that fabulous spoke key 3?
i have the ' TOOK ' bars on my pinarello 65.1 for the past 4 years...no issues with them,, little hard to set up, but so far good bars..i think i paided 55 american for them 130 stem 44 weight
Flex test is definitely a hack, not a bodge. 👏
My toseek carbon fiber seat post had a aluminum type material underneath the black stuff inside the tube
Would love to see some videos review about og evkin carbon items. They seem to be a little more expensive then to seek carbon.
most likely molded in separate parts. Should be able to see with your endoscope inside the joins.
In the process of buying a Giant Cadex 980c, I believe this one of the first mass produced carbon lugged frames for a resto mod project, I want it all carbon and 12 speed........ searched 12 speed groupset expecting Sensah then this popped up!!!!
LTWOO RX 2x12 Speed for only £122.25, 2 X carbon shifters, front and rear derailleur...... you have to, you know you can't resist?
Have you ever considered any of the more "premium" bar and stem combos? I am really interested in the ryet ones, around 100€ and kinda cool imo ^^
Spinderella and Beastie Boys in the same video? Luke is rapidly approaching mad genius status and I'm beyond here for it.
A fellow man of culture in the comments 🙏🙏🙏
Hey Luke, my concern with widening the holes would be weakening the structural integrity of the whole handlebar, especially considering that those holes are right about where you said there is a joint. What do you think about this?
So this did cross my mind, and is definitely a valid concern, but honestly I didnt have to widen the holes very much. Maybe an extra 1-2mm in height for each hole, just enough to squeeze another cable outer in there. Now with stuff like this, especially stuff that i have had to modify slightly, I ALWAYS take it easy for the first 100 miles or so until im confident it's up to snuff and isn't compromised. But it's precisely why I can't reccomend these bars. You shouldn't have to made mods like these, but as stated, I am a MASSIVE pedantic loser... So bear that in mind
the material on the sides of the bars (in this case the front and rear faces when the bars are installed on the bike) does not do very much when it comes to bearing the load of the rider so it should not matter very much whether the holes are enlarged a little bit (sorry I do not know the English terminology because a follow the courses about material and strength analysis in dutch).
I reckon Luke was thinking "Like a scientist, when I'm applyin' this", as he was filing.
This is a concern whenever you're widening holes... still a worthwhile effort
I would think if you carefully sand the edges to avoid sharp edges which could propagate a crack, it would be ok.
Pedantic loser? Nah! Pedantic obsessive compulsive more true. Nicely done
You can't beat the non-integrated RXL SL bars and Kalloy Uno 7 stem. Total weight: 275g. Stiff, cheap and adjustable, which you don't get with the integrated ones.
Can you review the Toseek tr5500 next?